Great job!! You saved me 700.00! I was quoted 750.00 to replace my broken pentair screen logic. I ordered a wireless ethernet adapter and it works great. The board outside was shot on my original screen logic.
@@SwimmingintheDeep glad too do it! The pool company that built my pool and installed the pentair originally couldn't figure it out. Told me to call pentair. They couldn't figure it out either. But your solution did the job!! What a great feeling. And cost nearly nothing.
As a CompSci major I am always appreciative of people who understand tech and how things work and have simple solutions. What I did is buy a Powerline adapter which basically boosted my network connectivity to the far side of the house (basically it is now wired but over power line) and I got over 100Mbps to that side of the house which is aplenty for my needs. And I'll be doing exactly what's in this video. Simply hardwire the unit it and connect it to a wifi extender which will will simply talk to the Powerline wifi and that's that.
I found your video because I had wondered about bypassing the wireless segment (mine had failed). Your solution works like a champ, and you just saved another person $700.00! I really like how this simplified the setup as well. Thank you so much for taking the initiative to teach us the art of the possible!
You're welcome! Glad to help!! I see that you figured out the power too. I'm actually using a ASUS router out there now that runs AI mesh, but it's still very similar setup. I have the brick hard wired from the back of the router.
@@SwimmingintheDeep I did figure it out and it is so great! I have the brick installed in an IT closet that is temperature controlled and just a wired (actually using outdoor version of cat 5) connection.... Cannot tell you how appreciative I am of this!
Got my ebay screenlogic protocol adapter... took forever to find the STATIC IP it was assigned to... 10.0.1.80. I had to set it to a different static IP for my mini router/access point to connect to it. Next step is to wire it all to the easytouch. I really appreciate the great idea you present here.
Loved your video. I have the 4 button Easy Touch system that just failed due to power problem caused by fried wire on one leg of my 220 near my meter. I know Pentair is very overpriced but flabbergasted on the cost of replacing just the antenna circuit board. I was considering the Screenlogic upgrade but balked at the crazy high price and wondered if I could supply my own wireless bridge when I found your video. Much appreciated. The Easy Touch panel has multiple power taps and I think I will seek out a wireless ethernet antenna system that can be powered directly from one of the aux relays. Great video and seems like Screenlogic would make more sense than wasting more $$$ on the existing Easy Touch remote system. It was good for 12 yrs but dead now. ( NO COM) I thought I could live without the remote but sure miss it after having it for 12 yrs.
Very informative. My pool guy ordered the Pentair ScreenLogic Kit for my new pool that is under construction. After looking at the documentation, I am planning on running a wire from the control panel to inside my house where the protocol adapter will be located and connected to a network switch which is ultimately connected to my main wireless router. I will not be using the transmitter/receiver in this bundle and also my pool equipment is currently not planned to have any enclosure so a cheap AP is not a good option. But let me know if you think I should actually not do the wiring and instead look into an outdoor AP with an ethernet port. Thanks.
I'm using a RaspberryPi and software I developed to monitor and control my Pentair system /EasyTouch from a phone, PC, iPad. Spent probably about $120 in parts to make this happen. Not only it works great, but I have custom automation (macros) that can run circuits in sequence for a specific time. One button pool schedule change from Summer to Winter schedule, etc. Also capture telemetry to detect possible pump, IC, Mastertemp issues before/as they start.
That's cool. Does it provide two-way feedback? Like does it confirm that something's running at the time that it's on? Hooked into doing this but instead decided just to fix my board, I now use my old screenlogic system with the intended automation that pentair gives. I had to get a hot air workstation and replace the comm chip but it now works flawlessly again with two-way feedback. Your system would make for an excellent UA-cam video if someone's not already done it. I would watch it.
@@SwimmingintheDeep, yes, I designed it to display circuit status as unconfirmed in different color. As soon as the SW sees EasyTouch status message confirming it was turned on or off, the color changes. This typically takes about 10s. Good point, I should probably make a video of the UI.
Thanks for posting. I just did this after the wireless adapter outside went bad. I think it got water in it.... Now my question is, with the brain/protocal adapter moving outside, will it stand the heat? Our pool equipment cabinet is on the west side of the house in Texas so it will get all of the afternoon sun in the summer.
Thanks for the reply. I'm glad you got it working. I am in the North Atlanta area so it gets pretty high here too. My pentair easytouch is in a pumphouse so it does get shade.
Thanks. I like that idea. I’m on my second protocol adapter. Lightning took out the first one and it was inside the house. Now my wireless link is having a hard time linking.
Thanks for the comment. When my Pentair Screenlogic was broken (I later fixed it), I built my own automation. Here's my video on that ua-cam.com/video/69GMA5xGga8/v-deo.html
I have the issue that the Screen Logic Device only wants to negotiate at 10 mbps and half duplex. This makes the connection fail frequently. I have tested and replaced that data cable and have tested all of the LAN ports on the router.
Great video! We're having ours installed tomorrow and I'm wondering if we should do it your way. I have an AT&T Wifi Extender that has to pair with my router inside the house but looks wireless (just a power cord) and I wonder if it'll work....
Thanks. I'd say try it if you already have that extender paired up with your network as it should be easy to try and may save you $$ for the company doing it because wire and labor is not cheap. It isolates your system from the hardwire surges that may occur....AND it may have the side effect of giving you better wifi coverage for your devices when you are around the pool.
What else do you have connected to the com port? I'm I able to keep my Easy Touch Wireless Control connected to the same port as the Screenlogic2 interface adaptor and be able to control my pool with either method? Thanks
My salt water chlorinator and the screenlogic are both connected to the comport. I have a sub board that has three connection areas then has a single 4 wire cable to the comport. But I have been told that if you don't have the sub board that you can just double up the wires on the comport connector on the main board. You may want to confirm with Pentair support.
Thank you for your instructions as I am following them to the t but still am not able to connect to my brick thru my phone. It always connected via phone to my ATT router as we had 2 wifi's in the house, it connected to ATT wifi but not the ORBI wifi. I was told to eliminate ATT wifi for better and faster connections (which was true ) but since than I am not able to connect. Any ideas? I did reset the brinck several times and purchased Ethernet adapter as you indicated (taking my pentair wifi antenna out), and follow your directions. The adapter is connected as I can see its MAC and IP adress but not connecting to screen logic . Thank you for your feedback
You have done things I would have tried. Try another Ethernet cable just in case that one is bad. Also, you can bring the brick back into the house and supply it with some voltage and see if it will join the network then. Of course it won't be hooked up to the pool but it should go online. I've used an old 12 volt wall wart to do this before. I think the black and the red are the two wires you should use.
Would anyone have information on programming (write software) to communicate with the Protocol Adapter? I'd like to create a HomeSeer Plugin which would greatly expand automation features. Thanks
I'd suggest that if you are having issues that you try hooking it up next to your router directly. You'll have to power the red and black wires with 12-18v from some source like a wall adapter. Then it should appear on your network and if you login to your router you'll see that it has an ip address. If it is not doing this, try holding down the recessed button on for a long time (20 seconds or so) to do a hard reset. Once it appears on your network, you should be able to use the ScreenLogic app to also see it with your PC or phone. You won't be able to control your pool until you hook it back up to the four wires on your real easy touch system. Hope this makes sense.
Thanks for the video you saved me some money. I hooked everything up just like you said but have no control of the lights or pump on my android phone. The apps opens up and shows the # from the interface. I can only see the interface on my phone while I'm on the property but not away from home.
Thanks for sharing! I would like to try this setup, however, I am unable to find the Belkin Ethernet adapter nor the ASUS point of access devices you show in the video. Could you please list other devices that would work? Also, I imagine there would be some sort of configuration needed to setup on the network so it will be able to communicate. Do you have instructions for that?
I just upgraded my main router and then my old device I was using stopped working with it. In the end I did this, the new router is Asus with aimesh so I got a deal on another older aimesh compatible router and put it out at my pool. It works better than ever now. So I'd say go with a mesh link up if you can. If it's not aimesh routers then use a brand of mesh routers that have ethernet on the back of them so you can leverage one for the pool and screenlogic system. I need to do an update video.
@@SwimmingintheDeep I had an old TP-Link router which I reset to factor defaults and set it back up on my current network. Wireless connection tested fine. In previous trouble shooting steps, I reinstalled the Pentair ScreenLogic Connect app on my apple phone (As noted by the cloud icon, indicating that it was previously installed). I am now able to connect to the adaptor, but the menu options look different. Under features, it's showing 'Waterfall' and other options in the Features menu I've never seen before. Also, when selecting to shut off the pump it's not responding. The app isn't responding to anything I select. I reviewed other comments on your video and someone had mentioned the Pentair quick touch ll remote... "waterfall, etc." Could it be possible that apple screwed up and applied the quick touch II remote rather than the ScreenLogic Connect for the download? This is crazy!
@@jeanswain4362 that is crazy. Can you confirm that the six digit Pentair device that shows up and you are connecting to is indeed yours? It should be a portion of your Mac address which is printed on the Pentair screenlogic brick. What I'm thinking is that there's a chance that you're seeing the demo server from Pentair which will not do anything except confirm that you're connecting to their demo system which might have a waterfall featured, etc.
@@SwimmingintheDeep that’s exactly what happened. I fat fingered entering the ID. 🤷🏼♀️ I decided to remove the wireless configuration altogether and bought enough 22/4 gauge wire to reach the panel from the house. I wanted to keep the adapter in the house so I can easily see the lights and to also keep it cool. After reconnecting the plugs to the wire in the correct sequence of the colors, I powered up the panel. The power light on the adapter came on and the two little lights next to the Ethernet cable came on. Unfortunately, I’m still unable to connect. It’s not connecting to the relay server. I’ve tried resetting the ScreenLogic adapter, but no joy.
@@jeanswain4362 you're on the right path. You have to establish a connection to the screenlogic brick before it can communicate with the easytouch system. My experience is that if you're out of warranty, tech support will still help you diagnose what's going on. It sounds like there's a chance that your screenlogic brick might be dead. However, I have seen tech support help me bring one back to life. There's also other things that can be going on like the screenlogic brick might be on another IP address range and therefore you can't see it on the network. If you're using a PC to diagnose everything you'll have more options because there's a couple of screenlogic utilities that you can use to see if you can see the brick and change its IP address to the range of your network.
Confirm that your brick is good. Plug it straight into your router. And power it by supplying 12v dc to the outer two pins + and -. Look through your old power adapters for telephones etc and find one that supplies 12 volts in at least 1.25 amps. To make the connection, you can take the green plug out of your box and unwire it and use it if you don't have a spare. once you have it hooked up directly to your router, check your screenlogic app and see if it shows up. It won't be hooked up to your pool of course, but it should show up.
@@SwimmingintheDeep thanks for quick reply! It does work. It connects normally but nothing actually happens when you try to use it. So I tried this method thinking that the wireless piece outside went bad. But after plugging in directly to ethernet, it no longer connected to the app
@@jasondevor7523try Reseting your system in the menu, you'll lose schedules, etc. But it sounds like the the problem might be your motherboard, an expensive replacement. I replaced three before I figured out how to fix mine with the help of an expert who told me where the usually bad chip is. It's usually a small chip that goes bad. The solder connections are pretty small and tedious to fix but the problem is that the chip is under the LCD on the motherboard (which is soldered on with about 20 pins) so you have to remove it, replace the chip and then put it back. The chip itself is under $10. There is someone on eBay that will do it for you. Also check to see if your system is under warranty. Pentair did have a program where if you bought three or more major Pentair items the 1 year warranty was extended to 3 years. That's how i got a couple of my boards replaced. The replacement chip I used... MAX1483ESA
@@jasondevor7523 if the app won't connect when connected to your network then there is a chance that the protocol adapter has fixed itself to some random, unknown IP. Check the list of clients in your router and see if one with the MAC address of your protocol adapter (last 6 are the pentair name you put in the app) shows up. If not, you have to start fishing for IP addresses, which is a major pain. Let me know if you need more info.
Im trying to install the screenlogic but my internal board is already using the comm ports for the handheld EasyTouch control system wires. I don’t seem to have that extra communications board like you do...is that something I need to order if I want to run both the handheld and the mobile app through screenlogic? Help!
I'd try doubling up the contacts....at your own risk. I have found evidence that this should work. I see a comport expansion module on Amazon and in the reviews it says, "Not always necessary due to the fact you can put more than one wire in each connection but makes for a much cleaner install and if you ever have to troubleshoot a problem.""
I have an outlet on the side of my box and it's regular 120v. However you can take a multimeter and look in the box and see if you can find a DC source that is in the voltage range. Be aware there's a lot of low voltage AC in there too. You'll need a multimeter with AC and DC to tell apart.
I do not but from what I understand about starlink is that it shouldn't matter. Ultimately you have a modem like a cable modem and probably either a built-in router or your own router. I didn't have to do anything special with mine to make it work, I don't think I had to open any ports either.
I use this wireless system, via iPhone app, mostly to switch between pool and spa. Recently when I press "Pool" or "Spa" to turn on or off, the button darkens (on) for about 20 seconds, but returns to (off). Communication otherwise looks OK. See temperature and heater status. Have you experienced this at all?
Hey, bro. I just bought an interface adapter off ebay. Comes with half the wireless interface (worthless) but owell. You fixed that problem for me lol! Once you connect locally can you reset/default the remote password?
I am very confused. Maybe you can help. I was looking to just buy the Protocol Adapter 520500 and it costs about $450 or I can get the Connection Kit that contains 520500 & 521964 for about $400. What am I missing? This doesn't make any sense.
@@TheDandy1122 ahhh, OK. The Screenlogic module is a better solution because it is two way... letting you know device status (on/off), chlorine salt levels, temp, etc. BUT it is expensive and mine burnt out several times until I switched it to a wireless connection. I am glad I have Screenlogic currently working but the other system I put in on my other video was very useful.
@@SwimmingintheDeep you mentioned yours burnt out? Was this because you may have had stray/bare wires sticking out of com port causing your board to fry.. i purchased pentair wireless kit 2nd hand (new).. and am a bit worried it will fry the board regardless of how well I connect the wires to com port.. your thoughts?.. in other words, board will fry as result of non human error but rather bad manufactured parts by pentair.. ps i had previously decided to use your other two methods (sonoff or generic relay and even purchased, but later heard you mention it was not two-way).. i’m still keeping them relays for other projects or incase com port fry’s..
@@JS-ss8ni Many people that have hardwireded their systems to the screenlogic brick/module have had burnouts of a very small RS485 communication chip on the mainboard. The working theory is that the hardwired arrangment may be subject to voltage surges that cannot be isolated. I tried every level of surge protection, even low voltage on the wires themselves. By using a wireless connection like I show in this video, you eliminate the possibility of the working theory of the surge. I fixed my RS485 chip about 6 months ago and have had many thunderstorms, etc and it is still working now that I have this wireless link. Screenlogic is superior to the remote capabilities of the sonoff type arrangement that I outlined in the other vid. I still have my sonoff arrangement in place because its interface with Alexa and google home is far superior to Pentairs attempts which have lags and quit working from time to time for no reason.
What’s up with the Apple App Store. Was having major issues with app so I deleted the app in hopes of reinstalling it. Oh crap now it’s completely gone from apple App Store. Wtf.
I tried what you said, I had the wireless system and ditched that from screenlogic. However I direcly connected the screenlogic white box to my direct line ethernet and the 4 wires to the control board, I cannot see to get it to recognize the white box, even using the #s and putting them in the software. Is there a different software to use for wired ethernet connections
Hi, I have wired mine both ways, no different software for wired. If you can get your white brick to your main router, plug it in there and get power to it via the pins on the side, 12v DC should work and nearly any old adapter you have laying around. See if you can then see it on the network in the router settings, if you can't your brick might be dead.
@@SwimmingintheDeep my white brick if you will has a red led, and connected direcly to and ethernet, and small wires are connected to an extension bd, where my clorintor is connected, as well as all the pumps (data) cables...when I either update or install screenlogic software it does not find the 6 digit number automatically.. this system is brand new and I'm not sure of next steps, any other thoughts?
@@goldforeveryone It sounds like you have the four wires right. Login to your router and see if you see the device in the connected devices list. The MAC address of the device should show up....I think it is part of the same 6 digit number you are looking for. If it is not in the list, check the ethernet cable or try another ethernet cable. Otherwise, if the device is new, Pentair's support is really good, just give them a call tomorrow.
I have the Pentair quick touch ll remote. I have the waterfall, motor high and light synched. I just want to have the ability to turn the heat up w it. I have been told that I have to get ScreenLogic to do that. That doesn’t seem rt to me. Can I program that 4th button to control heat. If you say yes I will figure it out I just don’t want to frustrate myself if it’s not possible. And if it’s not. I already have an antenna. Am I able to just buy the white box for less? I m afraid I will screw up doing what your showing. I’m not gifted w electronics🤷🏼♀️ or anything really 🤦🏼♀️haha.. I subscribed
Thanks for subscribing and for the comment. To adjust heat temp i do think you need screenlogic. I have seen some people on UA-cam build elaborate raspberry like devices to dio it but that's something i have no interest in learning. I am not 100% sure on your system though. I'll look up the remote II.
Here's what I would do it i were you.... Set one of the buttons on the remote for heat on/off. Set another for "heat boost". Heat on will bring the spa to the temp you have set on the easytouch. When you are in the spa and want it a little warmer hit the heat boost button and your heater will turn back on for seven minutes (pretty sure that's the preset time it will run for)..Want it warmer? Hit it again and it will run another seven. No Screenlogic required.
Swimming in the Deep Thank you so much for taking the time to help me. You saying “spa” I’m assuming that’s the hot tub.. that is completely separate stand alone it’s a bullfrog hot tub and access is easy. I am in Colorado and I keep my in ground small swimming pool at 97 not joking it has an auto cover. I have 4 daughters all out of house now so I don’t want it at that temp non-stop but my pool equipment is enclosed very tight spider land. I just need a way to boost the heat. I believe I can apply what you were stating for the spa to the pool. That’s all I needed was someone to tell me it has the ability to communicate with the heat. Again THANK YOU!!!
my outside wireless access point has died and i want to move the protocal adapter into the outdoor panel and hardwire it with a cat 5 ethernet line from my router to the proocal adapter. Where will the protocal adapter get its power? From the com board? Thanks
Yes. 4 wires and one of them is powered. just a note of caution though when I hardwired mine for all those years, not with ethernet but with the comm wire, that's when I got surges that would take out the RSA chip on my main board. it happened about four times before I figured out that hardwiring was my problem. That chip on the board is subject to issues with microsurges for some reason. he would usually happens during a lightning storm, not a direct hit but anywhere within a half a mile would take out my board. Look up screenlogic and hardwired problems and you'll see that it is a common occurrence. Think about a setup like I have instead.
@@SwimmingintheDeep Thanks for the quick reply, and the power surge advice. yesterday i checked for power out of the com board. The one block (on left side) to the main board had 17vdc, the other block going to the pentair wireless antenna had no power, same for the other unused block. makes me wonder if the pentair antenna board is just not getting any power, i.e. no green lights on it.
@@johnanddonnicebrandon9149 did you try it on the other com ports? my system has a smaller board that plugs into the comm port for the SW chlorinator and to distribute additional com ports.
@@SwimmingintheDeep i did plug it into the other empty socket on the board. Mine has 3 socket, one on the left for the salt, which has power. Middle bottom for the screen logic antenna and an empty/un-used one on the left. Again, no power indicating on the last two. one other thing of note that started all of this. One of the Pentair CVA24 valve actuators failed. Upper o-ring seal was torn up and the case filled with water. Gears rusted and stripped the teeth, so it was not an electrical issue. All this other stuff started after i removed the valve and it's control wire. Still waiting on replacement valve. Don't think i could have damaged anything unplugging that valve, but no guarantees. Still need to fix it. The pool is only two years old, so hoping for a warranty claim but have not heard back from Pentair as of yet.
@@johnanddonnicebrandon9149 yes that's weird. Check the low voltage circuit breakers to the right of your com board. Mine have never flipped but who knows? Is your chlorinator working just fine from the easytouch side? What I mean is can you see stats in the tiny menu window when you browse to it? from everything that I've read you can use the one comport on your main board....that feeds the comm port board, and just stack wires up on it for multiple devices.
Thanks for this video. Pentair are being difficult and rapey. By that I mean they charge huge money for essentially cheap and simple equipment. The key to be able to do that is the RS485 serial connection (represented by the white wire in this video). Is there any information on the protocol they use (I have looked with partial success)? I have been able to read information on this serial bus for use with home automation but have been unable debug sufficiently to create a controller function. I would happily buy this device from Pentair for say $100, but au$5-800 does not leave me feeling morally obliged to the company. Swimming in the Deep has already shown a way of saving significant sums of money by using a $20 part. An RS486 adapter and wifi connector combined can be purchased for less than $10 which is essentially what the screen logic interface is. If anyone has good information on the protocol which enables me to home build a controller, I will happily share my build information.
Thanks for the comment. I also started to go down the road of integrating it with a homegrown automation system but in the end could only limited info and I knew it would get into too big of a science project for my sanity. I've been happy with it while it's working well now. If my system ever goes down again because of a failed main board or something major again I hope that they'll be a cost effective alternative at that time.
Look at the instructions of your device and choose one that has the ability to act as a wireless network adapter. When that happens and in that mode the IP address will be set by your main router. Alternatively if you have a router that supports a mesh network, you can buy another mesh supporting device that has ethernet ports on the back of it and place it out next to your pool. This is what I later did because my first device became too old to use with my network.
Ok, so I'm obviously missing something--I cannot even find the ScreenLogic app on the Apple App Store. Has it changed names? Did Pentair take it off the App Store? I just wanted to download and check out the app to see what all it can do. (9-6-20)
I have an Android. But when I search on Google. I see it as one of the number one links on the Apple iOS store. www.google.com/search?q=screenlogic+ios+app+store&oq=screenlogic+ios&aqs=chrome.1.69i57j33l3.12632j0j9&client=ms-android-fi&sourceid=chrome-mobile&ie=UTF-8
Swimming in the Deep : Roger That, but when I go to the App Store it says it’s not available in my country or region. And my VPN isn’t even set to another country ;) - Thanks for the reply. Great Videos Sir.
I have seen Pentair remove things like the Alexa Skill and then add it back later.Maybe they updated the app and now have pulled it temporarily because off a bug.
Swimming in the Deep : Perhaps you can answer my question, can screen logic control all the different light settings of Pentair Globrite LED’s? Also can the EasyTouch directly control the light functions? We are just getting a pool installed, and all we have now is a single pole switch that you have to turn off and on anywhere from 1 to 14 times to get to the different light settings. Also wondering if I can use a WiFi switch and just set up Alexa skills to toggle it on and off the amount of times needed for each color setting?
Great job!! You saved me 700.00!
I was quoted 750.00 to replace my broken pentair screen logic. I ordered a wireless ethernet adapter and it works great. The board outside was shot on my original screen logic.
That's great to hear! I love saving people money. Thank you for the comment.
@@SwimmingintheDeep glad too do it! The pool company that built my pool and installed the pentair originally couldn't figure it out. Told me to call pentair. They couldn't figure it out either. But your solution did the job!! What a great feeling. And cost nearly nothing.
As a CompSci major I am always appreciative of people who understand tech and how things work and have simple solutions. What I did is buy a Powerline adapter which basically boosted my network connectivity to the far side of the house (basically it is now wired but over power line) and I got over 100Mbps to that side of the house which is aplenty for my needs. And I'll be doing exactly what's in this video. Simply hardwire the unit it and connect it to a wifi extender which will will simply talk to the Powerline wifi and that's that.
That's a simple way to extend your hardwired network, I like it and maybe should have thought of it myself! :-) Thanks for the comment!
I found your video because I had wondered about bypassing the wireless segment (mine had failed). Your solution works like a champ, and you just saved another person $700.00! I really like how this simplified the setup as well. Thank you so much for taking the initiative to teach us the art of the possible!
You're welcome! Glad to help!! I see that you figured out the power too. I'm actually using a ASUS router out there now that runs AI mesh, but it's still very similar setup. I have the brick hard wired from the back of the router.
@@SwimmingintheDeep I did figure it out and it is so great! I have the brick installed in an IT closet that is temperature controlled and just a wired (actually using outdoor version of cat 5) connection.... Cannot tell you how appreciative I am of this!
Dude. Saved me so much $$. Thanks.
Awesome! I ended up evolving mine to put a mesh router out at the pool pump.
Got my ebay screenlogic protocol adapter... took forever to find the STATIC IP it was assigned to... 10.0.1.80. I had to set it to a different static IP for my mini router/access point to connect to it. Next step is to wire it all to the easytouch. I really appreciate the great idea you present here.
how did you find what IP adress the brick was assigned to?
@@vascor6239 guess and check
Lucid explanation. It saved hundreds of dollars. Thank you!
Glad it helped!
Loved your video. I have the 4 button Easy Touch system that just failed due to power problem caused by fried wire on one leg of my 220 near my meter. I know Pentair is very overpriced but flabbergasted on the cost of replacing just the antenna circuit board. I was considering the Screenlogic upgrade but balked at the crazy high price and wondered if I could supply my own wireless bridge when I found your video. Much appreciated. The Easy Touch panel has multiple power taps and I think I will seek out a wireless ethernet antenna system that can be powered directly from one of the aux relays. Great video and seems like Screenlogic would make more sense than wasting more $$$ on the existing Easy Touch remote system. It was good for 12 yrs but dead now. ( NO COM) I thought I could live without the remote but sure miss it after having it for 12 yrs.
Thank you for taking the time to comment! I am glad it helped.
Great explanation of the screenlogic interface and cost-saving advice. Thanks
Very informative. My pool guy ordered the Pentair ScreenLogic Kit for my new pool that is under construction. After looking at the documentation, I am planning on running a wire from the control panel to inside my house where the protocol adapter will be located and connected to a network switch which is ultimately connected to my main wireless router. I will not be using the transmitter/receiver in this bundle and also my pool equipment is currently not planned to have any enclosure so a cheap AP is not a good option. But let me know if you think I should actually not do the wiring and instead look into an outdoor AP with an ethernet port.
Thanks.
Smartest idea ever.
You mention landscape lighting. Could you make a short video on how to hook up landscape lighting to the Pentair Control panel?
Sure, someone else had suggested that I do that and I did it recently. Here's a link to my video on that. ua-cam.com/video/uDaTy7nnQhw/v-deo.html
Brilliant idea, and great explanation!
I would love to find out about that little button battery in the board. Mine doesn’t last more than a week before it’s dead.
I'm using a RaspberryPi and software I developed to monitor and control my Pentair system /EasyTouch from a phone, PC, iPad. Spent probably about $120 in parts to make this happen. Not only it works great, but I have custom automation (macros) that can run circuits in sequence for a specific time. One button pool schedule change from Summer to Winter schedule, etc. Also capture telemetry to detect possible pump, IC, Mastertemp issues before/as they start.
That's cool. Does it provide two-way feedback? Like does it confirm that something's running at the time that it's on? Hooked into doing this but instead decided just to fix my board, I now use my old screenlogic system with the intended automation that pentair gives. I had to get a hot air workstation and replace the comm chip but it now works flawlessly again with two-way feedback. Your system would make for an excellent UA-cam video if someone's not already done it. I would watch it.
@@SwimmingintheDeep, yes, I designed it to display circuit status as unconfirmed in different color. As soon as the SW sees EasyTouch status message confirming it was turned on or off, the color changes. This typically takes about 10s. Good point, I should probably make a video of the UI.
Thanks for posting. I just did this after the wireless adapter outside went bad. I think it got water in it.... Now my question is, with the brain/protocal adapter moving outside, will it stand the heat? Our pool equipment cabinet is on the west side of the house in Texas so it will get all of the afternoon sun in the summer.
Thanks for the reply. I'm glad you got it working. I am in the North Atlanta area so it gets pretty high here too. My pentair easytouch is in a pumphouse so it does get shade.
Thanks. I like that idea. I’m on my second protocol adapter. Lightning took out the first one and it was inside the house. Now my wireless link is having a hard time linking.
Did you get it working? Could be a small chip on your EasyTouch motherboard that got hit as well.
Fantastic video -- thx for sharing! What is the box (with the 4 'smart' stickers on it) next to the wifi extender?
Thanks for the comment. When my Pentair Screenlogic was broken (I later fixed it), I built my own automation. Here's my video on that ua-cam.com/video/69GMA5xGga8/v-deo.html
Great video! Thanks for the advice. Can your mesh access point go in the control compartment of the Pentair panel?
My updated system is a mesh router sitting on top of the box with a hardwire Ethernet cable going into the box to supply the screenlogic brick.
I have the issue that the Screen Logic Device only wants to negotiate at 10 mbps and half duplex. This makes the connection fail frequently. I have tested and replaced that data cable and have tested all of the LAN ports on the router.
Has it ever worked successfully? Maybe try another router.
Great video! We're having ours installed tomorrow and I'm wondering if we should do it your way. I have an AT&T Wifi Extender that has to pair with my router inside the house but looks wireless (just a power cord) and I wonder if it'll work....
Thanks. I'd say try it if you already have that extender paired up with your network as it should be easy to try and may save you $$ for the company doing it because wire and labor is not cheap. It isolates your system from the hardwire surges that may occur....AND it may have the side effect of giving you better wifi coverage for your devices when you are around the pool.
What else do you have connected to the com port? I'm I able to keep my Easy Touch Wireless Control connected to the same port as the Screenlogic2 interface adaptor and be able to control my pool with either method? Thanks
My salt water chlorinator and the screenlogic are both connected to the comport. I have a sub board that has three connection areas then has a single 4 wire cable to the comport. But I have been told that if you don't have the sub board that you can just double up the wires on the comport connector on the main board. You may want to confirm with Pentair support.
Thank you for your instructions as I am following them to the t but still am not able to connect to my brick thru my phone. It always connected via phone to my ATT router as we had 2 wifi's in the house, it connected to ATT wifi but not the ORBI wifi. I was told to eliminate ATT wifi for better and faster connections (which was true ) but since than I am not able to connect. Any ideas? I did reset the brinck several times and purchased Ethernet adapter as you indicated (taking my pentair wifi antenna out), and follow your directions. The adapter is connected as I can see its MAC and IP adress but not connecting to screen logic . Thank you for your feedback
You have done things I would have tried. Try another Ethernet cable just in case that one is bad. Also, you can bring the brick back into the house and supply it with some voltage and see if it will join the network then. Of course it won't be hooked up to the pool but it should go online. I've used an old 12 volt wall wart to do this before. I think the black and the red are the two wires you should use.
Would anyone have information on programming (write software) to communicate with the Protocol Adapter? I'd like to create a HomeSeer Plugin which would greatly expand automation features. Thanks
How do you check to see if your protocol adapter is functioning properly?
I'd suggest that if you are having issues that you try hooking it up next to your router directly. You'll have to power the red and black wires with 12-18v from some source like a wall adapter. Then it should appear on your network and if you login to your router you'll see that it has an ip address. If it is not doing this, try holding down the recessed button on for a long time (20 seconds or so) to do a hard reset. Once it appears on your network, you should be able to use the ScreenLogic app to also see it with your PC or phone. You won't be able to control your pool until you hook it back up to the four wires on your real easy touch system. Hope this makes sense.
Thanks for the video you saved me some money. I hooked everything up just like you said but have no control of the lights or pump on my android phone. The apps opens up and shows the # from the interface. I can only see the interface on my phone while I'm on the property but not away from home.
Does it work fully via a PC on the network? And also, so you are saying you can see it but can't really control it from your Android?
@@SwimmingintheDeep I will down load the app onto my pc and check. Thanks for the reply.
Thanks for sharing! I would like to try this setup, however, I am unable to find the Belkin Ethernet adapter nor the ASUS point of access devices you show in the video. Could you please list other devices that would work? Also, I imagine there would be some sort of configuration needed to setup on the network so it will be able to communicate. Do you have instructions for that?
I just upgraded my main router and then my old device I was using stopped working with it. In the end I did this, the new router is Asus with aimesh so I got a deal on another older aimesh compatible router and put it out at my pool. It works better than ever now. So I'd say go with a mesh link up if you can. If it's not aimesh routers then use a brand of mesh routers that have ethernet on the back of them so you can leverage one for the pool and screenlogic system. I need to do an update video.
@@SwimmingintheDeep I had an old TP-Link router which I reset to factor defaults and set it back up on my current network. Wireless connection tested fine. In previous trouble shooting steps, I reinstalled the Pentair ScreenLogic Connect app on my apple phone (As noted by the cloud icon, indicating that it was previously installed). I am now able to connect to the adaptor, but the menu options look different. Under features, it's showing 'Waterfall' and other options in the Features menu I've never seen before. Also, when selecting to shut off the pump it's not responding. The app isn't responding to anything I select. I reviewed other comments on your video and someone had mentioned the Pentair quick touch ll remote... "waterfall, etc." Could it be possible that apple screwed up and applied the quick touch II remote rather than the ScreenLogic Connect for the download? This is crazy!
@@jeanswain4362 that is crazy. Can you confirm that the six digit Pentair device that shows up and you are connecting to is indeed yours? It should be a portion of your Mac address which is printed on the Pentair screenlogic brick. What I'm thinking is that there's a chance that you're seeing the demo server from Pentair which will not do anything except confirm that you're connecting to their demo system which might have a waterfall featured, etc.
@@SwimmingintheDeep that’s exactly what happened. I fat fingered entering the ID. 🤷🏼♀️ I decided to remove the wireless configuration altogether and bought enough 22/4 gauge wire to reach the panel from the house. I wanted to keep the adapter in the house so I can easily see the lights and to also keep it cool. After reconnecting the plugs to the wire in the correct sequence of the colors, I powered up the panel. The power light on the adapter came on and the two little lights next to the Ethernet cable came on. Unfortunately, I’m still unable to connect. It’s not connecting to the relay server. I’ve tried resetting the ScreenLogic adapter, but no joy.
@@jeanswain4362 you're on the right path. You have to establish a connection to the screenlogic brick before it can communicate with the easytouch system. My experience is that if you're out of warranty, tech support will still help you diagnose what's going on. It sounds like there's a chance that your screenlogic brick might be dead. However, I have seen tech support help me bring one back to life. There's also other things that can be going on like the screenlogic brick might be on another IP address range and therefore you can't see it on the network. If you're using a PC to diagnose everything you'll have more options because there's a couple of screenlogic utilities that you can use to see if you can see the brick and change its IP address to the range of your network.
Awesome advice!! I have this all hooked up but it won't show up on the screen logic app. Is there a new connection we have to make?
Confirm that your brick is good. Plug it straight into your router. And power it by supplying 12v dc to the outer two pins + and -. Look through your old power adapters for telephones etc and find one that supplies 12 volts in at least 1.25 amps. To make the connection, you can take the green plug out of your box and unwire it and use it if you don't have a spare. once you have it hooked up directly to your router, check your screenlogic app and see if it shows up. It won't be hooked up to your pool of course, but it should show up.
@@SwimmingintheDeep thanks for quick reply! It does work. It connects normally but nothing actually happens when you try to use it. So I tried this method thinking that the wireless piece outside went bad. But after plugging in directly to ethernet, it no longer connected to the app
@@jasondevor7523try Reseting your system in the menu, you'll lose schedules, etc. But it sounds like the the problem might be your motherboard, an expensive replacement. I replaced three before I figured out how to fix mine with the help of an expert who told me where the usually bad chip is. It's usually a small chip that goes bad. The solder connections are pretty small and tedious to fix but the problem is that the chip is under the LCD on the motherboard (which is soldered on with about 20 pins) so you have to remove it, replace the chip and then put it back. The chip itself is under $10. There is someone on eBay that will do it for you. Also check to see if your system is under warranty. Pentair did have a program where if you bought three or more major Pentair items the 1 year warranty was extended to 3 years. That's how i got a couple of my boards replaced. The replacement chip I used... MAX1483ESA
@@jasondevor7523 if the app won't connect when connected to your network then there is a chance that the protocol adapter has fixed itself to some random, unknown IP. Check the list of clients in your router and see if one with the MAC address of your protocol adapter (last 6 are the pentair name you put in the app) shows up. If not, you have to start fishing for IP addresses, which is a major pain. Let me know if you need more info.
@@jasondevor7523 how did you fix it? I’m having the same issue. I just ordered a new board :(
Im trying to install the screenlogic but my internal board is already using the comm ports for the handheld EasyTouch control system wires. I don’t seem to have that extra communications board like you do...is that something I need to order if I want to run both the handheld and the mobile app through screenlogic? Help!
I'd try doubling up the contacts....at your own risk. I have found evidence that this should work. I see a comport expansion module on Amazon and in the reviews it says, "Not always necessary due to the fact you can put more than one wire in each connection but makes for a much cleaner install and if you ever have to troubleshoot a problem.""
quick question. where do you get the power for the wireless adapter?
I have an outlet on the side of my box and it's regular 120v. However you can take a multimeter and look in the box and see if you can find a DC source that is in the voltage range. Be aware there's a lot of low voltage AC in there too. You'll need a multimeter with AC and DC to tell apart.
Do you have any experience with using this setup and Starlink as an internet service provider?
I do not but from what I understand about starlink is that it shouldn't matter. Ultimately you have a modem like a cable modem and probably either a built-in router or your own router. I didn't have to do anything special with mine to make it work, I don't think I had to open any ports either.
Just wondering what access point you're using everything I can see is $50.00-150.00. Access point is basically an extender?
yes
I use this wireless system, via iPhone app, mostly to switch between pool and spa. Recently when I press "Pool" or "Spa" to turn on or off, the button darkens (on) for about 20 seconds, but returns to (off). Communication otherwise looks OK. See temperature and heater status. Have you experienced this at all?
So you can see your temp status and it looks correct? If not, you may be communicating with your Screenlogic adapter (brick) and not the mainboard.
@@SwimmingintheDeep Yes, I can see temperature status and heater flame, but cannot change the temperature or turn on/off the pool or spa
Meant to confirm, the actual temperature shown is correct
This might be a clue: On my iPhone the app shows a system alert = "Pump 1 - Communication lost". But looking at the panel, Pump 1 status is all normal
@@frede3097 That's strange. Can you use the PC app to do it?
Hey, bro. I just bought an interface adapter off ebay. Comes with half the wireless interface (worthless) but owell. You fixed that problem for me lol! Once you connect locally can you reset/default the remote password?
Yes, there's a hold to reset button on the brick.
If I already have the wireless remote do I just need that screenlogic interface module?
I am pretty sure the wireless remote is unrelated to the screenlogic setup. With screenlogic you use an app on your PC or phone.
You have to buy the screen logic kit.
I am very confused. Maybe you can help. I was looking to just buy the Protocol Adapter 520500 and it costs about $450 or I can get the Connection Kit that contains 520500 & 521964 for about $400. What am I missing? This doesn't make any sense.
If it costs less to get 521964 (the wireless link) with it....go ahead and get the bundle. If the wireless part goes bad you can use my method.
@@SwimmingintheDeep I understand that the kit is the way to go, but it doesn't make sense that the Protocol Adapter alone costs more.
@@johnciccarelli4098 yes, it seems out of line. I once bought the bundle kit and sold the wireless part on ebay and it offset half the cost.
I know the pentair control is a bit more expensive then the wireless. Do you prefer the control or the module
Not sure that I understand your question.
Would you prefer to have the wireless control or the screen logic and use it with your phone
@@TheDandy1122 ahhh, OK. The Screenlogic module is a better solution because it is two way... letting you know device status (on/off), chlorine salt levels, temp, etc. BUT it is expensive and mine burnt out several times until I switched it to a wireless connection. I am glad I have Screenlogic currently working but the other system I put in on my other video was very useful.
@@SwimmingintheDeep you mentioned yours burnt out? Was this because you may have had stray/bare wires sticking out of com port causing your board to fry..
i purchased pentair wireless kit 2nd hand (new).. and am a bit worried it will fry the board regardless of how well I connect the wires to com port.. your thoughts?..
in other words, board will fry as result of non human error but rather bad manufactured parts by pentair..
ps i had previously decided to use your other two methods (sonoff or generic relay and even purchased, but later heard you mention it was not two-way).. i’m still keeping them relays for other projects or incase com port fry’s..
@@JS-ss8ni Many people that have hardwireded their systems to the screenlogic brick/module have had burnouts of a very small RS485 communication chip on the mainboard. The working theory is that the hardwired arrangment may be subject to voltage surges that cannot be isolated. I tried every level of surge protection, even low voltage on the wires themselves. By using a wireless connection like I show in this video, you eliminate the possibility of the working theory of the surge. I fixed my RS485 chip about 6 months ago and have had many thunderstorms, etc and it is still working now that I have this wireless link. Screenlogic is superior to the remote capabilities of the sonoff type arrangement that I outlined in the other vid. I still have my sonoff arrangement in place because its interface with Alexa and google home is far superior to Pentairs attempts which have lags and quit working from time to time for no reason.
What’s up with the Apple App Store. Was having major issues with app so I deleted the app in hopes of reinstalling it. Oh crap now it’s completely gone from apple App Store. Wtf.
I tried what you said, I had the wireless system and ditched that from screenlogic. However I direcly connected the screenlogic white box to my direct line ethernet and the 4 wires to the control board, I cannot see to get it to recognize the white box, even using the #s and putting them in the software. Is there a different software to use for wired ethernet connections
Hi, I have wired mine both ways, no different software for wired. If you can get your white brick to your main router, plug it in there and get power to it via the pins on the side, 12v DC should work and nearly any old adapter you have laying around. See if you can then see it on the network in the router settings, if you can't your brick might be dead.
@@SwimmingintheDeep my white brick if you will has a red led, and connected direcly to and ethernet, and small wires are connected to an extension bd, where my clorintor is connected, as well as all the pumps (data) cables...when I either update or install screenlogic software it does not find the 6 digit number automatically.. this system is brand new and I'm not sure of next steps, any other thoughts?
@@goldforeveryone It sounds like you have the four wires right. Login to your router and see if you see the device in the connected devices list. The MAC address of the device should show up....I think it is part of the same 6 digit number you are looking for. If it is not in the list, check the ethernet cable or try another ethernet cable. Otherwise, if the device is new, Pentair's support is really good, just give them a call tomorrow.
I have the Pentair quick touch ll remote. I have the waterfall, motor high and light synched. I just want to have the ability to turn the heat up w it. I have been told that I have to get ScreenLogic to do that. That doesn’t seem rt to me. Can I program that 4th button to control heat. If you say yes I will figure it out I just don’t want to frustrate myself if it’s not possible. And if it’s not. I already have an antenna. Am I able to just buy the white box for less? I m afraid I will screw up doing what your showing. I’m not gifted w electronics🤷🏼♀️ or anything really 🤦🏼♀️haha.. I subscribed
Thanks for subscribing and for the comment. To adjust heat temp i do think you need screenlogic. I have seen some people on UA-cam build elaborate raspberry like devices to dio it but that's something i have no interest in learning. I am not 100% sure on your system though. I'll look up the remote II.
Here's what I would do it i were you.... Set one of the buttons on the remote for heat on/off. Set another for "heat boost". Heat on will bring the spa to the temp you have set on the easytouch. When you are in the spa and want it a little warmer hit the heat boost button and your heater will turn back on for seven minutes (pretty sure that's the preset time it will run for)..Want it warmer? Hit it again and it will run another seven. No Screenlogic required.
Swimming in the Deep Thank you so much for taking the time to help me. You saying “spa” I’m assuming that’s the hot tub.. that is completely separate stand alone it’s a bullfrog hot tub and access is easy. I am in Colorado and I keep my in ground small swimming pool at 97 not joking it has an auto cover. I have 4 daughters all out of house now so I don’t want it at that temp non-stop but my pool equipment is enclosed very tight spider land. I just need a way to boost the heat. I believe I can apply what you were stating for the spa to the pool. That’s all I needed was someone to tell me it has the ability to communicate with the heat. Again THANK YOU!!!
@@Think-dont-believe yes, I think "heat boost" will serve in your case.good luck.
my outside wireless access point has died and i want to move the protocal adapter into the outdoor panel and hardwire it with a cat 5 ethernet line from my router to the proocal adapter. Where will the protocal adapter get its power? From the com board? Thanks
Yes. 4 wires and one of them is powered. just a note of caution though when I hardwired mine for all those years, not with ethernet but with the comm wire, that's when I got surges that would take out the RSA chip on my main board. it happened about four times before I figured out that hardwiring was my problem. That chip on the board is subject to issues with microsurges for some reason. he would usually happens during a lightning storm, not a direct hit but anywhere within a half a mile would take out my board. Look up screenlogic and hardwired problems and you'll see that it is a common occurrence. Think about a setup like I have instead.
@@SwimmingintheDeep
Thanks for the quick reply, and the power surge advice. yesterday i checked for power out of the com board. The one block (on left side) to the main board had 17vdc, the other block going to the pentair wireless antenna had no power, same for the other unused block. makes me wonder if the pentair antenna board is just not getting any power, i.e. no green lights on it.
@@johnanddonnicebrandon9149 did you try it on the other com ports? my system has a smaller board that plugs into the comm port for the SW chlorinator and to distribute additional com ports.
@@SwimmingintheDeep i did plug it into the other empty socket on the board. Mine has 3 socket, one on the left for the salt, which has power. Middle bottom for the screen logic antenna and an empty/un-used one on the left. Again, no power indicating on the last two.
one other thing of note that started all of this. One of the Pentair CVA24 valve actuators failed. Upper o-ring seal was torn up and the case filled with water. Gears rusted and stripped the teeth, so it was not an electrical issue. All this other stuff started after i removed the valve and it's control wire. Still waiting on replacement valve. Don't think i could have damaged anything unplugging that valve, but no guarantees. Still need to fix it. The pool is only two years old, so hoping for a warranty claim but have not heard back from Pentair as of yet.
@@johnanddonnicebrandon9149 yes that's weird. Check the low voltage circuit breakers to the right of your com board. Mine have never flipped but who knows? Is your chlorinator working just fine from the easytouch side? What I mean is can you see stats in the tiny menu window when you browse to it? from everything that I've read you can use the one comport on your main board....that feeds the comm port board, and just stack wires up on it for multiple devices.
Thanks for this video. Pentair are being difficult and rapey. By that I mean they charge huge money for essentially cheap and simple equipment. The key to be able to do that is the RS485 serial connection (represented by the white wire in this video). Is there any information on the protocol they use (I have looked with partial success)? I have been able to read information on this serial bus for use with home automation but have been unable debug sufficiently to create a controller function. I would happily buy this device from Pentair for say $100, but au$5-800 does not leave me feeling morally obliged to the company. Swimming in the Deep has already shown a way of saving significant sums of money by using a $20 part. An RS486 adapter and wifi connector combined can be purchased for less than $10 which is essentially what the screen logic interface is. If anyone has good information on the protocol which enables me to home build a controller, I will happily share my build information.
Thanks for the comment. I also started to go down the road of integrating it with a homegrown automation system but in the end could only limited info and I knew it would get into too big of a science project for my sanity. I've been happy with it while it's working well now. If my system ever goes down again because of a failed main board or something major again I hope that they'll be a cost effective alternative at that time.
Great way to automate a dinosaur….😆
It sure is!
Hi, my understanding is that wireless access point does not receive the WAN address from wifi of the house. Can you please show us a setup video
Look at the instructions of your device and choose one that has the ability to act as a wireless network adapter. When that happens and in that mode the IP address will be set by your main router. Alternatively if you have a router that supports a mesh network, you can buy another mesh supporting device that has ethernet ports on the back of it and place it out next to your pool. This is what I later did because my first device became too old to use with my network.
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Ok, so I'm obviously missing something--I cannot even find the ScreenLogic app on the Apple App Store. Has it changed names? Did Pentair take it off the App Store? I just wanted to download and check out the app to see what all it can do. (9-6-20)
I have an Android. But when I search on Google. I see it as one of the number one links on the Apple iOS store. www.google.com/search?q=screenlogic+ios+app+store&oq=screenlogic+ios&aqs=chrome.1.69i57j33l3.12632j0j9&client=ms-android-fi&sourceid=chrome-mobile&ie=UTF-8
Swimming in the Deep : Roger That, but when I go to the App Store it says it’s not available in my country or region. And my VPN isn’t even set to another country ;) - Thanks for the reply. Great Videos Sir.
I have seen Pentair remove things like the Alexa Skill and then add it back later.Maybe they updated the app and now have pulled it temporarily because off a bug.
Swimming in the Deep : Perhaps you can answer my question, can screen logic control all the different light settings of Pentair Globrite LED’s? Also can the EasyTouch directly control the light functions? We are just getting a pool installed, and all we have now is a single pole switch that you have to turn off and on anywhere from 1 to 14 times to get to the different light settings. Also wondering if I can use a WiFi switch and just set up Alexa skills to toggle it on and off the amount of times needed for each color setting?
I had the app but was having issues. I deleted it in hopes of reinstalling. Now it’s not on the Apple App Store. Please help if you find a solution
Why can’t you just get to the point and stop being so annoying with this circling around?
That's how we do things in the South. Thanks for the comment.