Thanks for making this. I was about to pay someone to come show me how to do this as a new salt pool owner. I feel confident doing it on my own after watching this!
This video is awesome and a must watch for all new saltwater pool owners. Very informative and step by step instruction was spot on and not too lengthy. Looking forward to more of his videos.
This was the best video I have ever seen on cleaning and testing your Pentair Intelichlor salt cell. From start to finish the guy is very thorough. If he had only mentioned that the muratic acid put into the cell should be diluted - 1 part muratic acid to 3 parts water, with the water put into the cell first. That is mentioned in the video notes, but many people don't read the notes. Otherwise, GREAT VIDEO!
Yeah that, I would also recommend to not submerge the entire cell under water. If any water gets into the electronic portion of the cell it will be destroyed.
Excellent video. My pool guy retired and my salt cell wasn’t producing chlorine. I acid once and the bottom side still has clumps of calcium so I flipped it and acid again. Your test procedure was a big help. I even saw chlorine fumes coming out. I used Vaseline to lube the o-rings and hand tightened the salt cell and it didn’t leak. You just taught this old a few new tricks, thanks a bunch🙏🙏🙏
@PoolCareWorld hello, my cell hasn't produced chlorine in many months and my pool maintainnce guy says it could be the comm link ? I don't even know what that is. Is that harder to fix than replacing a cell? They've been adding chlorine tablets to my pool because this issue has been left unfixed for quite a while. Thanks
Excellent video. Thanks. Very professional. Even I don't own a pool, I worked for Pentair for more than 15 years, with the aquaculture division. Great company.
That was extremely thorough and articulate, however at around 4:50 you put the stand on and went directly to adding the acid. You didn’t mention that water was added to the cell FIRST! If you put the acid first and THEN add the water, it’s very dangerous. But an excellent video overall. Thank you.
Great tutorial. Very well done!! Of course, nothing screwed (loosen & tighten) as easily as shown. But was very confident in doing the job myself. Thank you!!
Thank you! I have just purchased a home with a neglected salt cell and will be using what I've learned here to try and get it going again - much appreciated! Bought in Bevard too :)
@@PoolCareWorld A quick follow-up, the guys servicing my pool tossed in salt and cleaned the cell apparently - and it started working after at LEAST a year or more of not being used! I was shocked having been told how finicky they can be. I didn't ask them to do this but it's a win win for me so long as it's working lol. I know how it works and how to service it thanks to you - much appreciated!
Great video! I first filled the Salt Cell with just water, to see how much cleaning solution I would need to prepare. Also, the solution should not be poured too fast because it bubbles and may overflow.
Great tutorial!! I was going to have someone come clean the cell for me, but after watching this I believe I can do it myself. Missed the 3-1 combo of acid and water. thank you for the comment below from vagatx!!
You should always turn off the breaker and unplug the cell from the power center before cleaning. If you set your timer to turn off the cell 15 minutes before the pump quits running, you will reduce the amount of buildup on your plates.
Good tip on timer settings SeaDoo!!! to turn cell off 15 min before water flow or pump stops. Oh and regarding "Power on". These units can be wired as 220. So leaving it on and live while working with water and putting your finger in the damned thin???? Not very smart.! Take care stay alive!!
Great video! I’m a new pool owner so it was extremely helpful. There’s a lot of how to videos out there and I didn’t like there extensive wordiness or there disconnected business type demeanor. I super appreciate your down to earth real life approach. Your sincere genuine character, this something you most like aren’t even aware about. It comes naturally. Good job! You had said to use a 50/50 muriatic water solution, but later advised that you might make it a bit more diluted. I’ve heard 4 to 1. What would you recommend for this cleaning?
Thank you so much for the kind words we really appreciate it and I’m glad you were able to get value out of our videos, please subscribe if you haven’t already! To answer your question yes I messed up saying the mixture in the video was more like 1 part acid to 3 parts water, it’s also safer to add acid to water and not the other way around but always use 1 part acid to 4 parts water it doesn’t have to be exact just as close as you can get it 👍🏻
We have pool cleaning service come over and clean the pool...they told us our salt chlorine generator might not be working because there is almost no chlorine in our pool, but all lights are green on the generator, so do we just need to add more salt so it can produce chlorine or do we need to replace the salt chlorine generator? P.S: we open it up and it looks clean on the inside. We also just fill the pool with some water and we just have a rain storm.
very good video thanks for making it - nice hat I must buy one my neck gets fried Here in Thailand the local goons don't do this and now on two installations Ive found the salt cell simply unplugged and all calcified away inside so much so you could build a bat cave out of the crap. I am new to Salt Cells I did some experiments with scrap titanium plates in a tub plus a lab DC supply, and saw massive amounts of CH being produced which then corroded away the plates because they were not Ruthinium coated, but that led me to buy a cheap salt cell off lazada Now I'm figuring out PH and other water chemistry getting the salt cell into production, not easy, but the target is NO CYA in the water from TCCA !!! Just clean Water with salt !!!
Stick with name brand if possible I prefer Pentair! Use amazon links! The hat is called a catchalot I believe! Where you able to get your problem sorted out?
@@PoolCareWorld ive used a generic cheapo one in my own pool it works fine very good 11,000 Thai Bhat 300 USD on lazada (thai aliexpress) the other idiot got stung probably by the ppl who do the "you'll need a new one" stunt, preying on owner ignorance Seen it all before here a proper;ly installed installation will have wires cut things damaged insect living in about two year and no support! Certainly I dont use any CYA as I only use salt, of course sunligh kills the CH very quickly but so far no yellow peril or green slime thanks 🙂 I think its really important to emphasise lube on rings as Ive a stuck main filter one on my refurbed pump oops
That’s a nifty trick to check for bubbles to see if the cell is working. This is exactly the answer to my question. How do I know if my salt cell is still good. Thanks so much.
Any suggestions for replacement o-rings for the salt cell housing (size? brand?) Or recommendations for removing calcium deposits that are on the housing of the PVC pipe joint itself? We got ours open and found that someone had used plumbers tape to try to prevent leaking and that the o-ring is rubbing off black to the touch.
I would just buy the pentair brand orings to save the headache if the off brand don’t fit correctly. And for the calcium on the outside of pvc use a hard pumice and tap it an it will break off easily please subscribe!
Great video. I have a question. My pool has a Hayward Aqua Rite salt generator. The display is showing 1700 salt, very low. I sent a water sample to a pool store and they said the salt is at 3800, high. I know is at 3800 because I added too much salt last week thinking that it was low. The cell is not producing chlorine because is reading 1700, check cell and check salt lights are on. I already calibrated it. The cell is a T15 and it matches the board. Any idea if is it the cell or the board that goes wrong in this cases?. Thank you
there is no check cell or check salt. just to be clear does the indicator light say inspect cell . sounds like needs a salt cell cleaning and another recalibration. a correct calibration will allow you to set the board to read what pool reads. I would get my own reading and not the pool stores. get you a 40 digital salt reader thats pre calibrated. eseasons makes a good one.
@TOS RIDER I would definitely recommend cleaning the cell first that will sometimes improve the salt cell readings at the board. Let me be clear that this is a very common problem with this brand of Hayward salt cells. We have so many issues with them. Many times the board will most likely have to be replaced if it’s still not in the 3200 ppm salt range. But you cannot ever trust the board reading always take your own readings before adding salt. The cell also should be replaced every 3-5 years, if it’s past 3 years and still working it’s running on burrowed time start saving up for a new one. My opinion if both the board and the salt cell are outdated and you’re looking at replacing both of them, then switch your salt system over to this model pentair intelichlor. It’s going to be around the same price or cheaper depending on if you do it yourself or hire someone. These salt cells have the board display integrated on top. They’re bulletproof! This is a IC40 model make sure you’re getting the right size. For testing the salt I recommend using a Taylor 1766 salt reagent kit they’re super accurate and no need to calibrate. Just store in cool place. Hope this helps! Subscribe I’ll make a video on Hayward soon!
@@PoolCareWorld Good Morning. Thank you very much for your response. I ordered another cell from Salt Pool Store. I'll try that first since it's been 5yrs with this cell already. Thank you again
Very good idea thanks for looking out! This one is nearly 5 years old I like to keep the salt cell timer to cut on and off atleast an hour before the pump comes on and cut off an hour before it turns off to mitigate those issues. But 100% good idea!
With this setup, a check valve is not required. The cell should be powered only when the pump is operating, and the flow switch is a secondary safety device. If a tab feeder was installed, a check valve would be appropriate to protect the heater from acid and chlorine generated by the tabs.
I had a salt systerm installed 8 mounts agon and the control pannel showed no out put, the unit was sent back to the suppliers who sent the unit had been running to long on height and burt out and they will not oner the garrentee,
@@PoolCareWorld replaced 10 amp fuse and without salt cell connected light stays on inside the power pack. As soon as I connect cell and it cycles the fuse blows. Pentair customer service/tech support were useless. Said warranty expired over 2 years. How convenient piece of crap goes bad couple months out of warranty.
Thanks for the video. Curiously, instead of re-attaching the dummy cell, if the pool water is independent in a bucket intended to submerge the cell unit, why does the system need to run? Only the salt cell itself actually needs to run, correct?
Yes that is correct if there’s no automation(intelli touch etc.) and the salt cell runs off a mechanical timer then that is correct I just did it so anyone can do it with their system and Hayward and other salt cells will not turn on unless you engage the pump just trying to make it as simple as possible and if you engage the pump without a dummy cell it causes all sorts of chaos and potential problems but thank you for your insight I forgot to explain that!
Whats the difference between the cleaning kit from Intellichlor, which looks just like a black cap with the O-ring versus the white stand, I see in this video or do I need both?
That’s a great problem to have! I’m guessing the pool is small? Look at the model number on the side example: ic40 is most common. Search the gallons that model is recommended for that will tell you if it’s a more powerful cell. If it’s on 2% that means it’s only running 2% of an hour run time. If it was at 100% it’s on 100% of the runtime. So if you run it at low percentage it should last you a lot longer. Also make sure your cya isn’t above 50 and your test reagent isn’t expired
What happens to the sodium after it splits from the chlorine? I know the chlorine goes into the pool, and presumably binds to contaminants. Would this mean the chlorine gets used up and sodium is left behind? I appreciate your video. I learned a lot!
Thank you for watching! As far as I know the salt to chlorine generation is continuously happening unless the pool is diluted. But I’m going to have to do more research to give you a more in depth explanation. I’ll get back to you!
The sodium has a positive charge and choride a negative charge, they hook backup in the pool and circulate back through to split apart in teh generator, its a cycle that never stops as the salt does not evaporate it is only diluted if you add water
Hi thank you for bringing this to my attention I was wrong it’s actually E 6000 and it’s just used when you first buy your salt cell tower in the bottom grove and push the oring into it to hold in place. Use a very small amount and try and only get it on the bottom of the oring not the top. Then we use a silicone lube on the top of the oring every use. We use magic lube for our lubricant
Please add some safety messages on this vid. Always wear a mask when looking down at the cell full of solution, the fumes can rise and fill your lungs quick, it can actually make you pass out. Never handle the cell with it still plugged in, it’s a small amount of power but if it’s faulty you can get shocked. Never clean over your pavers, unless you want to destroy one. Save a spare paver for this work that you don’t care about. Never stick your finger in there when it’s on. Faulty wiring means shock. Normally it’s fine but not always. Would also recommend glasses. Amazing how water likes to splash and it takes the tiniest amount of acid to damage your eyes. Be safe out there.
Jesus man..... who is paying you to make statements like this? Are you offended? Did u lose someone to Chlorine? Shouldn't he also make a statement about waiting 30 min after eating and not to swim without a life guard on duty? Not helpful champ, just patronizing....smh
Great vid, I have a salt system that only produces chlorine when it runs overnight 24 hours ! When i run it normally through the day for 8 hours it doesn't produce any chlrine !? Cell has been cleaned and plenty of salt in pool, no flow lights or add slat lights on the board ? Any ideas anyone ?????
@@Poolmandan.service raise the stabilizer to 70 and see how that works! We keep all the chlorine pools at 50 and saltwater between 50-70. Whatever your stabilizer is times it by .075 and that's the effective chlorine rate. so example if stabilizer is 100 the effective chlorine rate is 7.5 ppm. Hopefully that helps!
Thank you! Yes they are pricey if it’s older than 5 years it may be time but I’ve seen them last longer. It could also be your filters if those are older than a year replace them first and please subscribe 👍🏻
Pentair told me to unplug it at first, were just pouting what into there? do you use undiluted muriatic acid? Is that consumer grade acid? I don't believe your to put HASS strength without diluting the acid.
I always dump used acid back into pool because the water in the pool is the safest way to dispose of it and the sediment inside will be easily be vacuumed up. Please don't dump on ground its not good for the environment. Thanks for watching!
Im not understanding why a dummy cell was installed. Could you just submerge your salt cell in a bucket to see if bubbled emerge? Why is therr a need to install a dummy unit?
All depends on the system this one didn’t necessarily needed it cause it was controlled off a separate timer but it most of the time is required so I did it anyways
What’s your water chemistry? Also remember the percentage of the cell is is just how long your cell runs. So only run your salt cell on 80% max and lower if possible to lengthen the time between cleanings
How I was taught by pentair you can use less water and keep cord dry but filmed over month ago and salt cell still working great! Cannot speak for other brands/models of salt cells
@@Pseudify Yes, that's how it makes chlorine it has salt water running through the device which the salt cell itself has copper fins that use electrolysis to make chlorine. Also yes the salt cell lives outside and gets rained on and most of the time it is in the harshest locations as well... California, texas, Florida where you have the sun just beating down all day long trying to destroy everything plastic.
I said to replace mine twice in three years don’t understand why they keep going out. They seem to last about a year I live in Florida so it runs you around. I’ve never seen my pool company do any type of cleaning on it could that cause the salt cell to fail.
I would recommend capping the end opposite the flow switch and not submerging that flow switch in the acid solution. Just cover the plates. Also your acid-to-water ratio is way higher than the mfgr recommends.
Yes you are correct but in cases where the cell has not been cleaned in a long time and is more caked up with calcium deposits you do need a stronger solution. I wish I would have clarified to use no more than a 50:50 solution instead in this video, just trying to make it easy for everyone. I have also seen where the flow switch does need to be cleaned so I also do it to eliminate any issues. But yes the manufacturer recommended is more like 4:1 water to acid. Thanks for helping me clarify this 👍🏻
@@PoolCareWorld 4 parts water to one part acid. Cover the plates only, not the flow switch, as the acid solution will damage the bi-metallic contacts of the flow switch. Wait 30 minutes and dump the solution. If calcium deposits are still present, do it again for 30 minutes. Using a 50/50 solution may damage the plates and void your warranty. At about a $1k for a replacement, you don't want to harm the cell with careless handling.
@@ronreed5889 Yes I agree and I should’ve explained it more in depth ! I honestly never thought the acid would damage the flow switch! Thanks I appreciate you!
Agree, I destroyed my flow switch at one point because I didn't know I would cause damage. However, I bought a flow switch replacement online and was able to easily replace it. Now, when I clean the cel, I unscrew the flow switch from the housing so that it does not get exposed to the acid. You are welcome. ;-)
I would never use straight muriatic acid when cleaning the cell. I prefer using half water half acid solution which will help prolong the life of the ruthenium oxide coating on the blades.
In the CPO course they tell us 100 times:. You never add water to chemicals. You add chemicals to water. Looks like you added tap water to a jug with Acid.
@@mattmccauley5561 any type of WATER can be used just as long as you add the acid to a larger amount of water. Not adding water to the acid like he does.
@@JuanSanchez-tk4vr thanks man. About half of my 74 pools are salt and I'm trying to get all the info and tips I can get so again thank you for the input.
😳 I don’t think you should submerge the entire Salt Cell to test it 12:20 There are electronics in there that can’t be exposed to water There are great tips in the rest of this video though, that I can come away with knowledge
I think maybe you cut out the part where you added water to the muriatic acid, but now it looks like you’re pouring straight acid into the cell. My understanding is that it is important to dilute the acid in a 1 to 4 ratio because the acid is damaging to the cell.
I bought the Hayward stand for my Pentair Salt Cell and it did not fit. I will get another option on line but I wanted to support the local pool supply and all they offered was the Hayward Brand. It was $ 70.00 CDN so not the kind of mistake I like making. Your video was helpful otherwise.
Pentair has the incredible stigma of customer service. New IC20 arrived DOA. Took then 2 months to replace it amongst many unanswered emails and several calls with empty promises of callbacks. Only when I turned to the BBB and social media did they do something. Thay have 2 star ratings across the board. Will be buying another competitor when this one breaks. 1300 every 3 to 5 years is an expensive nut to crack. They also lied to the BBB stating they left several voicemails when it never happened.
They only last 3 to 5 years…. If you want a salt pool it’s going to cost more $. We only recommend pentair and many other brands have garbage products so I would reconsider
3 PART WATER 1 PART ACID MIXTURE FOR CLEANING SALT CELL
ua-cam.com/video/8vofDKMHIgM/v-deo.html
Thanks for making this. I was about to pay someone to come show me how to do this as a new salt pool owner. I feel confident doing it on my own after watching this!
Glad it was helpful!
This video is awesome and a must watch for all new saltwater pool owners. Very informative and step by step instruction was spot on and not too lengthy. Looking forward to more of his videos.
Thank you!!! Stay tuned 😎
Guy does a great job, definitely following him
Best video I've ever seen on this topic. Every item from start to finish was valuable and informative. Thanks!
This was the best video I have ever seen on cleaning and testing your Pentair Intelichlor salt cell. From start to finish the guy is very thorough. If he had only mentioned that the muratic acid put into the cell should be diluted - 1 part muratic acid to 3 parts water, with the water put into the cell first. That is mentioned in the video notes, but many people don't read the notes. Otherwise, GREAT VIDEO!
Great point I added a card in the video at the point of pouring the acid solution to make sure to get the point across, thanks for the kind words!
@@PoolCareWorldwhat happens if you don’t dilute with water?
Yeah that, I would also recommend to not submerge the entire cell under water. If any water gets into the electronic portion of the cell it will be destroyed.
Excellent video. My pool guy retired and my salt cell wasn’t producing chlorine. I acid once and the bottom side still has clumps of calcium so I flipped it and acid again. Your test procedure was a big help. I even saw chlorine fumes coming out. I used Vaseline to lube the o-rings and hand tightened the salt cell and it didn’t leak. You just taught this old a few new tricks, thanks a bunch🙏🙏🙏
Awesome so glad to hear!
Never a petroleum product on o-rings
Wow, this video was great. It gave me the confidence to believe I can clean my own cell. Can't wait to do it this weekend. Thank you!
Thank you Jeff! Any other videos you want too see? And thanks for subscribing 🙏🏼
@PoolCareWorld hello, my cell hasn't produced chlorine in many months and my pool maintainnce guy says it could be the comm link ? I don't even know what that is. Is that harder to fix than replacing a cell? They've been adding chlorine tablets to my pool because this issue has been left unfixed for quite a while. Thanks
Keep doing it that way, bail on salt money pit
he has been trained very well and he does everything very professionally.
Thank you!
Excellent video. Thanks. Very professional. Even I don't own a pool, I worked for Pentair for more than 15 years, with the aquaculture division. Great company.
Thank you so much!
That was extremely thorough and articulate, however at around 4:50 you put the stand on and went directly to adding the acid. You didn’t mention that water was added to the cell FIRST! If you put the acid first and THEN add the water, it’s very dangerous. But an excellent video overall. Thank you.
Did you read discription or video I have pinned in comments?
Great tutorial. Very well done!! Of course, nothing screwed (loosen & tighten) as easily as shown. But was very confident in doing the job myself. Thank you!!
Awesome and that's how it always goes lol but on the bright side you loosened everything up for the next go around!
Thank you! I have just purchased a home with a neglected salt cell and will be using what I've learned here to try and get it going again - much appreciated! Bought in Bevard too :)
Glad it was helpful!
@@PoolCareWorld A quick follow-up, the guys servicing my pool tossed in salt and cleaned the cell apparently - and it started working after at LEAST a year or more of not being used! I was shocked having been told how finicky they can be. I didn't ask them to do this but it's a win win for me so long as it's working lol. I know how it works and how to service it thanks to you - much appreciated!
Excellent tutorial on how to clean your Intellichlor salt cell. Thanks for educating us.
Very welcome
Great video! I first filled the Salt Cell with just water, to see how much cleaning solution I would need to prepare. Also, the solution should not be poured too fast because it bubbles and may overflow.
Exactly 😎
Awesome demo and walk through!
Thank you!!!
Nice explanation. Think that I need to acid clean my cell today....
Thank You! You should! Let us know if we can help in any way!
Man What great video! I paid the price for tightening the nuts with a wrench ! Thanks
If you broke it you can now buy aftermarket two piece unions so you don’t have to cut the pipe
Very comprehensive explanation. Great tips! Many thanks!!!!
Thank you make sure to subscribe we have more tips coming!
@@PoolCareWorld thanks so much. The verbal explanation is so clear and helpful combined with good visuals.
Great tutorial!! I was going to have someone come clean the cell for me, but after watching this I believe I can do it myself. Missed the 3-1 combo of acid and water. thank you for the comment below from vagatx!!
You should always turn off the breaker and unplug the cell from the power center before cleaning. If you set your timer to turn off the cell 15 minutes before the pump quits running, you will reduce the amount of buildup on your plates.
Good tip on timer settings SeaDoo!!! to turn cell off 15 min before water flow or pump stops. Oh and regarding "Power on". These units can be wired as 220. So leaving it on and live while working with water and putting your finger in the damned thin???? Not very smart.! Take care stay alive!!
Great video! I’m a new pool owner so it was extremely helpful. There’s a lot of how to videos out there and I didn’t like there extensive wordiness or there disconnected business type demeanor. I super appreciate your down to earth real life approach. Your sincere genuine character, this something you most like aren’t even aware about. It comes naturally. Good job! You had said to use a 50/50 muriatic water solution, but later advised that you might make it a bit more diluted. I’ve heard 4 to 1. What would you recommend for this cleaning?
Thank you so much for the kind words we really appreciate it and I’m glad you were able to get value out of our videos, please subscribe if you haven’t already! To answer your question yes I messed up saying the mixture in the video was more like 1 part acid to 3 parts water, it’s also safer to add acid to water and not the other way around but always use 1 part acid to 4 parts water it doesn’t have to be exact just as close as you can get it 👍🏻
new to salt cells very informative
Awesome!
Excellent detailed video, thank you!
Thank you Robert! What would you like us to cover next?
This pool system on this home. Has a nice clean install.
I agree the builder did a great job!
No heater bypass, no sediment trap on the gas line, the install calls for both..junk valves instead of Jandys…another crap builder, screwing up. Sorry
@@poolmonkey7479
Forgot that did not see a sacrificial anod anywhere - this is a salt system. But plumbing layout looks efficient
We have pool cleaning service come over and clean the pool...they told us our salt chlorine generator might not be working because there is almost no chlorine in our pool, but all lights are green on the generator, so do we just need to add more salt so it can produce chlorine or do we need to replace the salt chlorine generator? P.S: we open it up and it looks clean on the inside. We also just fill the pool with some water and we just have a rain storm.
very good video thanks for making it - nice hat I must buy one my neck gets fried Here in Thailand the local goons don't do this and now on two installations Ive found the salt cell simply unplugged and all calcified away inside so much so you could build a bat cave out of the crap. I am new to Salt Cells I did some experiments with scrap titanium plates in a tub plus a lab DC supply, and saw massive amounts of CH being produced which then corroded away the plates because they were not Ruthinium coated, but that led me to buy a cheap salt cell off lazada Now I'm figuring out PH and other water chemistry getting the salt cell into production, not easy, but the target is NO CYA in the water from TCCA !!! Just clean Water with salt !!!
Stick with name brand if possible I prefer Pentair! Use amazon links! The hat is called a catchalot I believe! Where you able to get your problem sorted out?
@@PoolCareWorld ive used a generic cheapo one in my own pool it works fine very good 11,000 Thai Bhat 300 USD on lazada (thai aliexpress) the other idiot got stung probably by the ppl who do the "you'll need a new one" stunt, preying on owner ignorance Seen it all before here a proper;ly installed installation will have wires cut things damaged insect living in about two year and no support! Certainly I dont use any CYA as I only use salt, of course sunligh kills the CH very quickly but so far no yellow peril or green slime thanks 🙂 I think its really important to emphasise lube on rings as Ive a stuck main filter one on my refurbed pump oops
That’s a nifty trick to check for bubbles to see if the cell is working. This is exactly the answer to my question. How do I know if my salt cell is still good. Thanks so much.
If it makes bubbles that’s chlorine so it’s working!
Good video. Just be careful adding water to acid. It can cause it to splash rapidly. Much safer to add acid to water
Thank you! Great advice! Always wear eye protection as well. Yes if I’m adding acid to water I like to use a gallon pitcher for easy pouring.
acid in the water like ya oughter
Always add the acid to the water.
Great Video! Thanks for posting it. Can you tell me where I can get that outdoor ocean side enclosure that covers
the pool power/control box? Thanks.
Yes I can I will have to look at the brand name and get back to you! I highly recommend them if you’re anywhere neasr the beach!
If it's on too tight use a strap wrench instead of channel locks. They're infinitely adjustable and won't scratch or crack the soft PVC collar.
Great advice thank you!
Any suggestions for replacement o-rings for the salt cell housing (size? brand?) Or recommendations for removing calcium deposits that are on the housing of the PVC pipe joint itself? We got ours open and found that someone had used plumbers tape to try to prevent leaking and that the o-ring is rubbing off black to the touch.
I would just buy the pentair brand orings to save the headache if the off brand don’t fit correctly. And for the calcium on the outside of pvc use a hard pumice and tap it an it will break off easily please subscribe!
I didn't clean my intellichlor salt cell last year. It says no flow, but I have plenty of water flow.will cleaning it fix it?
Can you tell me where to get the clear square bucket with the measurements on it? I have searched, but can't find anything like it
Restaurant supplies
amzn.to/4e1O0XN
Great video, you have a new subscriber.
Great video. I have a question. My pool has a Hayward Aqua Rite salt generator. The display is showing 1700 salt, very low. I sent a water sample to a pool store and they said the salt is at 3800, high. I know is at 3800 because I added too much salt last week thinking that it was low. The cell is not producing chlorine because is reading 1700, check cell and check salt lights are on. I already calibrated it. The cell is a T15 and it matches the board. Any idea if is it the cell or the board that goes wrong in this cases?. Thank you
there is no check cell or check salt. just to be clear does the indicator light say inspect cell . sounds like needs a salt cell cleaning and another recalibration. a correct calibration will allow you to set the board to read what pool reads. I would get my own reading and not the pool stores. get you a 40 digital salt reader thats pre calibrated. eseasons makes a good one.
Great advice Ken!
@TOS RIDER I would definitely recommend cleaning the cell first that will sometimes improve the salt cell readings at the board. Let me be clear that this is a very common problem with this brand of Hayward salt cells. We have so many issues with them. Many times the board will most likely have to be replaced if it’s still not in the 3200 ppm salt range. But you cannot ever trust the board reading always take your own readings before adding salt. The cell also should be replaced every 3-5 years, if it’s past 3 years and still working it’s running on burrowed time start saving up for a new one.
My opinion if both the board and the salt cell are outdated and you’re looking at replacing both of them, then switch your salt system over to this model pentair intelichlor. It’s going to be around the same price or cheaper depending on if you do it yourself or hire someone. These salt cells have the board display integrated on top. They’re bulletproof! This is a IC40 model make sure you’re getting the right size.
For testing the salt I recommend using a Taylor 1766 salt reagent kit they’re super accurate and no need to calibrate. Just store in cool place.
Hope this helps! Subscribe I’ll make a video on Hayward soon!
@@PoolCareWorld Good Morning.
Thank you very much for your response. I ordered another cell from Salt Pool Store. I'll try that first since it's been 5yrs with this cell already. Thank you again
@@tosrider7043 Our pleasure! Happy Pool to you and your family 😎
Thanks for sharing. I'm having a hard time finding the oring and lube that you reference. Could you provide amazon links?
This was awesome! Thanks for doing this video
Thank you!!!
This was super helpful! Thanks!
Awesome glad we can help
Excellent video
Thank you!
Do you have a link for the bin you use to pour the used muriatic acid into? Thanks for the video!
It’s in the link in bio at very bottom I believe 👍🏻
Hey, great video. Is it okay to pour that water back into the pool? Does the calcium dissolved into the acid not cause any issues to the cell?
Yes 👍
Thank You !!! Great video
Thank You!
Great job! Thank you!
Very good video!! I assume the dummy cell is not really a dummy so it’s just an unused chlorine generator that has been yet to be sold
Thank you no its a very used salt cell lol that's why its not a bad idea to keep the old one!
Thank you so much for the great video you are awesome
Thanks 😎
Hey buddy I will strongly suggest to put a check valve in order to protect that expensive mastertemp heater.
Very good idea thanks for looking out! This one is nearly 5 years old I like to keep the salt cell timer to cut on and off atleast an hour before the pump comes on and cut off an hour before it turns off to mitigate those issues. But 100% good idea!
@@PoolCareWorld thanks for taking the time and tech us how to take care of our equipment.
With this setup, a check valve is not required. The cell should be powered only when the pump is operating, and the flow switch is a secondary safety device. If a tab feeder was installed, a check valve would be appropriate to protect the heater from acid and chlorine generated by the tabs.
I had a salt systerm installed 8 mounts agon and the control pannel showed no out put, the unit was sent back to the suppliers who sent the unit had been running to long on height and burt out and they will not oner the garrentee,
My Pentair cell is clean and salt level is Good but green flashing light says “inspect cell”. Took another look at it and it seems fine! Wuzuuup ???
I have the ic40 salt cell since summer of 2022 and it just started to blow the 10amp fuse in power center. Do you think the cell went bad that soon?
Dealing with this same issue now with one of our customers I believe it is cell please let me know if you find anything out!
@@PoolCareWorld replaced 10 amp fuse and without salt cell connected light stays on inside the power pack. As soon as I connect cell and it cycles the fuse blows. Pentair customer service/tech support were useless. Said warranty expired over 2 years. How convenient piece of crap goes bad couple months out of warranty.
Thanks for the video. Curiously, instead of re-attaching the dummy cell, if the pool water is independent in a bucket intended to submerge the cell unit, why does the system need to run? Only the salt cell itself actually needs to run, correct?
Yes that is correct if there’s no automation(intelli touch etc.) and the salt cell runs off a mechanical timer then that is correct I just did it so anyone can do it with their system and Hayward and other salt cells will not turn on unless you engage the pump just trying to make it as simple as possible and if you engage the pump without a dummy cell it causes all sorts of chaos and potential problems but thank you for your insight I forgot to explain that!
@@PoolCareWorld ok gotcha, thank you !
Whats the difference between the cleaning kit from Intellichlor, which looks just like a black cap with the O-ring versus the white stand, I see in this video or do I need both?
The one from Pentair works too but the one if the video is better cause it is one piece and leaks less link in bio 😎
Can I keep re-using the same muriatic acid to clean the cell every 3 months?
No it loses potency after minutes of using it
New pool owner here. Mine works too well. It's currently turned off because the chlorine is 15ppm. Even at 2% my chlorine is too high.
That’s a great problem to have! I’m guessing the pool is small? Look at the model number on the side example: ic40 is most common. Search the gallons that model is recommended for that will tell you if it’s a more powerful cell. If it’s on 2% that means it’s only running 2% of an hour run time. If it was at 100% it’s on 100% of the runtime. So if you run it at low percentage it should last you a lot longer. Also make sure your cya isn’t above 50 and your test reagent isn’t expired
What happens to the sodium after it splits from the chlorine? I know the chlorine goes into the pool, and presumably binds to contaminants. Would this mean the chlorine gets used up and sodium is left behind? I appreciate your video. I learned a lot!
Thank you for watching! As far as I know the salt to chlorine generation is continuously happening unless the pool is diluted. But I’m going to have to do more research to give you a more in depth explanation. I’ll get back to you!
At normal levels, the filter system takes care of it.
The sodium has a positive charge and choride a negative charge, they hook backup in the pool and circulate back through to split apart in teh generator, its a cycle that never stops as the salt does not evaporate it is only diluted if you add water
How is the pool pump set, how many hours for the RPM use. what RPM is use for the salt generator?
Some work as low as 2000 but it all depends on flow and if the filter is dirty
2500 would be the lowest I’d go if you’re playing it safe
I can't find any P-6000. Could you tell me more about that please?
Hi thank you for bringing this to my attention I was wrong it’s actually E 6000 and it’s just used when you first buy your salt cell tower in the bottom grove and push the oring into it to hold in place. Use a very small amount and try and only get it on the bottom of the oring not the top. Then we use a silicone lube on the top of the oring every use. We use magic lube for our lubricant
You seemed to use the muriatic acid at full strength. Is this correct?
No please read description it should be diluted 1 part acid to 3-4 parts water
Great video, keep it up.
Thank you!
Please add some safety messages on this vid. Always wear a mask when looking down at the cell full of solution, the fumes can rise and fill your lungs quick, it can actually make you pass out. Never handle the cell with it still plugged in, it’s a small amount of power but if it’s faulty you can get shocked. Never clean over your pavers, unless you want to destroy one. Save a spare paver for this work that you don’t care about.
Never stick your finger in there when it’s on. Faulty wiring means shock. Normally it’s fine but not always. Would also recommend glasses. Amazing how water likes to splash and it takes the tiniest amount of acid to damage your eyes.
Be safe out there.
Masks and acid fumes, horrible idea.
Jesus man..... who is paying you to make statements like this? Are you offended? Did u lose someone to Chlorine? Shouldn't he also make a statement about waiting 30 min after eating and not to swim without a life guard on duty? Not helpful champ, just patronizing....smh
This guy probly was raise like a puzy, wear this, wear that, YES WEAR EYE protection, but all the other stuff is just puzzy talk.
I replaced my cell and the2 green lights are on but it still not showing and numbers of production
Try to increase %? It could be at 0
You are awesome, GREAT video!
Thank you! If you need any help please let me know
Great vid, I have a salt system that only produces chlorine when it runs overnight 24 hours !
When i run it normally through the day for 8 hours it doesn't produce any chlrine !?
Cell has been cleaned and plenty of salt in pool, no flow lights or add slat lights on the board ?
Any ideas anyone ?????
Thank you so much! First thing I would check is your stabilizer. Do you know what the reading for that is?
@@PoolCareWorld thanks for the reply, cyanuric or stabiliser is zero like all my salt water pools , ive never added cyanuric before ?
@@Poolmandan.service raise the stabilizer to 70 and see how that works! We keep all the chlorine pools at 50 and saltwater between 50-70. Whatever your stabilizer is times it by .075 and that's the effective chlorine rate. so example if stabilizer is 100 the effective chlorine rate is 7.5 ppm. Hopefully that helps!
@@PoolCareWorld our suppliers dont stock cyannuric acid, can you guys just buy it and add it to your pools??
@danielstorey2665 yes we purchase it 100lbs at a time. Leslies should have it if they’re close to you
Do you know what the typical life span the Pentair Intelichlor salt cell?
typically 5 years without issue if maintained right seen them last much much longer its the only salt cell I recommend!
Exactly what I needed. I’ve just been quoted $2.500 for a new salt cell but he never checked the one I have???
Thank you! Yes they are pricey if it’s older than 5 years it may be time but I’ve seen them last longer. It could also be your filters if those are older than a year replace them first and please subscribe 👍🏻
@@PoolCareWorld do you mean to replace the sand in the filter?
What is that thing you are screwing into the salt cell before you add acid to it?
cell tower stand link in description (:
Can I still clean it without the base? I don’t have that…
Not recommended link in bio
Pentair told me to unplug it at first, were just pouting what into there? do you use undiluted muriatic acid? Is that consumer grade acid? I don't believe your to put HASS strength without diluting the acid.
Yes that is correct it was diluted please read description also have a card linked in video on how we dilute it! Thanks for watching!
So it’s safe to throw acid/water mix in pool? What about liner pools?
Yes!
@@PoolCareWorld Thanks for your vids!
It’s our pleasure 😎
Great video…thx!
Glad you liked it!
Great job thank you!!
😎
Just did this today. Thanks for sharing. Is it safe to throw the used dirty acid mix into the pool?
Safe, yes but you just put back what the acid dissolved.
@@jeffp9920 Exactly. I did not do it. Thanks for your response.
I always dump used acid back into pool because the water in the pool is the safest way to dispose of it and the sediment inside will be easily be vacuumed up. Please don't dump on ground its not good for the environment. Thanks for watching!
Im not understanding why a dummy cell was installed.
Could you just submerge your salt cell in a bucket to see if bubbled emerge? Why is therr a need to install a dummy unit?
The power to the unit is tied to the pump.
For the salt cell to generate, it has to think "it's" installed inline with the flow.
All depends on the system this one didn’t necessarily needed it cause it was controlled off a separate timer but it most of the time is required so I did it anyways
Where did you get the stand / cap?
It’s a Hayward salt cell cleaning tower pretty common Amazon would probably have it 👍🏻
Is it 100 % acid or a 50 /50 mix with water
yes it is diluted please read description
Great video Thank you 🙏
Glad it was helpful!
My salt cell is completely blocked in about 3 weeks. Is it a faulty cell?
What’s your water chemistry? Also remember the percentage of the cell is is just how long your cell runs. So only run your salt cell on 80% max and lower if possible to lengthen the time between cleanings
So are you sure you take a electronic device and submerge it in water
How I was taught by pentair you can use less water and keep cord dry but filmed over month ago and salt cell still working great! Cannot speak for other brands/models of salt cells
That's how you clean it. I clean with a lower concentration of acid though.
@@michaellewis1684 yeah I know I messed that part up I should’ve said less
Are you talking about the chlorinator? That thing that has pool water running through it constantly and is outdoors getting rained on?
@@Pseudify Yes, that's how it makes chlorine it has salt water running through the device which the salt cell itself has copper fins that use electrolysis to make chlorine. Also yes the salt cell lives outside and gets rained on and most of the time it is in the harshest locations as well... California, texas, Florida where you have the sun just beating down all day long trying to destroy everything plastic.
Hey anyone know why my new pool and intellichlor shows 0 for salt level and doesn’t superchlorinate?
Shows 0 on the water test or on the board?
I said to replace mine twice in three years don’t understand why they keep going out. They seem to last about a year I live in Florida so it runs you around. I’ve never seen my pool company do any type of cleaning on it could that cause the salt cell to fail.
Yes it should be cleaned quarterly and don’t run it at 100% if you want it to last longer
what brand shirt are those?? are they dri-fit?
Yes they’re Hanes Cool Dry shirts the polyester material is more resistant to chlorine stains and is sun protection 👍🏻
Are you using muriatic acid?
Yes read description
where is the salt cell in relation to the pump and heater?
I would recommend capping the end opposite the flow switch and not submerging that flow switch in the acid solution. Just cover the plates. Also your acid-to-water ratio is way higher than the mfgr recommends.
Yes you are correct but in cases where the cell has not been cleaned in a long time and is more caked up with calcium deposits you do need a stronger solution. I wish I would have clarified to use no more than a 50:50 solution instead in this video, just trying to make it easy for everyone. I have also seen where the flow switch does need to be cleaned so I also do it to eliminate any issues. But yes the manufacturer recommended is more like 4:1 water to acid. Thanks for helping me clarify this 👍🏻
@@PoolCareWorld 4 parts water to one part acid. Cover the plates only, not the flow switch, as the acid solution will damage the bi-metallic contacts of the flow switch. Wait 30 minutes and dump the solution. If calcium deposits are still present, do it again for 30 minutes. Using a 50/50 solution may damage the plates and void your warranty. At about a $1k for a replacement, you don't want to harm the cell with careless handling.
@@ronreed5889 Yes I agree and I should’ve explained it more in depth ! I honestly never thought the acid would damage the flow switch! Thanks I appreciate you!
Acid Magic is the best for cleaning the cells instead of mixing the water with acid. And no fume at all and it will never damage the cells.
Agree, I destroyed my flow switch at one point because I didn't know I would cause damage. However, I bought a flow switch replacement online and was able to easily replace it. Now, when I clean the cel, I unscrew the flow switch from the housing so that it does not get exposed to the acid. You are welcome. ;-)
EXCELLENT EXCELLENT EXCELLENT. THANK YOU
I would never use straight muriatic acid when cleaning the cell. I prefer using half water half acid solution which will help prolong the life of the ruthenium oxide coating on the blades.
I Agee the acid solution was pre diluted with water!
Thanks so much!
Thank you ...
No problem!
Thank you!!
You're welcome!
Thank you so much
In the CPO course they tell us 100 times:. You never add water to chemicals. You add chemicals to water. Looks like you added tap water to a jug with Acid.
Yes I agree it’s a bad habit I need to break! Thanks for watching! Any videos you want to see next?
It’s an enclosed-self contained container
So could you dilute muriatic acid with purified water instead of tap water from the hose?? I'm new to being a pool cleaner and still learning.
@@mattmccauley5561 any type of WATER can be used just as long as you add the acid to a larger amount of water. Not adding water to the acid like he does.
@@JuanSanchez-tk4vr thanks man. About half of my 74 pools are salt and I'm trying to get all the info and tips I can get so again thank you for the input.
Always tun off power first going to cell before removing it 😊
😳
I don’t think you should submerge the entire Salt Cell to test it 12:20
There are electronics in there that can’t be exposed to water
There are great tips in the rest of this video though, that I can come away with knowledge
Pentair training class submerged just like showed just relaying the knowledge thank you 😎
I think maybe you cut out the part where you added water to the muriatic acid, but now it looks like you’re pouring straight acid into the cell. My understanding is that it is important to dilute the acid in a 1 to 4 ratio because the acid is damaging to the cell.
Yes that is correct it was diluted please read description also have a card linked in video on how we dilute it! Thanks for watching!
Just like working fins
Why would you dump the wastewater with the build-up you just cleaned back into the pool?
It’s a acid solution that’s the safest place to put it it won’t harm the pool
I bought the Hayward stand for my Pentair Salt Cell and it did not fit. I will get another option on line but I wanted to support the local pool supply and all they offered was the Hayward Brand. It was $ 70.00 CDN so not the kind of mistake I like making. Your video was helpful otherwise.
What is your location?
We are located in Florida
do i understand correctly, do not dilute the acid
No please read discription
Pentair has the incredible stigma of customer service. New IC20 arrived DOA. Took then 2 months to replace it amongst many unanswered emails and several calls with empty promises of callbacks. Only when I turned to the BBB and social media did they do something. Thay have 2 star ratings across the board. Will be buying another competitor when this one breaks. 1300 every 3 to 5 years is an expensive nut to crack. They also lied to the BBB stating they left several voicemails when it never happened.
They only last 3 to 5 years…. If you want a salt pool it’s going to cost more $. We only recommend pentair and many other brands have garbage products so I would reconsider
Also the ic20 is the smallest version if you upgrade you can run at lower % and have longer life
Mine has no lights on at all
Check timer