@@michaelfraser5723 well lil mike, normally i cant be bothered, he was worshipping Ivan not just his skills, and well, not my cup tea, at least he's not a science fiction writer
I have an 85 928s. All of the problems you are fixing/encountering I have already had. Each of these items are problematic. I was able to weld my rear trunk latch and grind back to nearly spec...but leaving it thicker in spots where it originally broke (I see there is the large grommet/rubber bushing missing in the hole the latch goes into, this makes the hatch latch tighter but is also problematic). Big issue with Porsche, the grease used on the sunroof, switches, etc gets thick just like wax. It took me forever to get my cable free and the stick grease cleaned in the sunroof. Great videos! keep them coming!!!
The rubber insert in the latch receiver is completely missing, that’s part of why it’s cracked. All that sideways force is on the male latch instead of pushing against the rubber.
GREAT diagnostics :o) I have dozens of glass fuses. I have a brand new house fan that requires one. The only reason I know is I had to take it out and test it because the fan quit working after just one week. The fuse was good and the fan worked after I put it back in. . . . Sprinkler clocks us them as well.
Interesting to see some "body work" and plain mechanical adjustments 🙂 Good job figuring out how the trunk release works, using that "friendly" diagram and a lot of brain cells 🙂 This car is just weird in every single assembly - designers always took the most complicated solution they could think of. I have a feeling the sunroof is gonna be fun (to watch) 🙂
Nice touch seeing Ivan using a piece of plastic to protect the paint /body when using the hammer around the nut area on the hatch ,no one would know when the latch was bolted back up but thats just what a person that cares does! Only a little thing but says a lot about Ivans ethos .Salute
Even that is a Porshe, its an old one and well build. Almost all that is wrong with it, its fixed with no parts required, well you have to thank Ivan for that as well. But its manageable. Thanks Ivan.
that shiny thing behind the locking nut (at 24:57 ) is a "control" washer - you have to tight the nut until you barely can move that washer with a flathead screwdriver. if you cant move it - you are too tight
Yes VW uses the same method, just without the fancy locking mech, just a castle nut and cotter pin instead. works beeter on the feel if you just push those brake shoes back a little to get them to not touch, so you can feel the drag. First tighten up a little more till the bearings bind slightly, then loosen till the washer is able to move slightly. Original installer did not do this, and the bearings were not fully home, and moved slightly into correct position, leaving the play.
as a teenager, in USMC by 84, i was mainly a musclecar guy like everyone in the great lakes, and had a sort of secret love of porches esp that V8 cuz whenever i mentioned all i heard was v8 this v8 that well jerky THERES a V8! and those ads back then in Playboy etc., damn
As usual, great video Ivan, and great diagnostic process ,I always say nothing i can’t fix without the owners manual or repair manual and a little bit of study time 📖 .
That has got to be one of the easiest wheel bearing adjustment process ever! I actually like the locking/adjusting mechanism. Good pick-up on how to adjust the trunk latch and get it working. $700 seems excessive, surely that is the whole assembly including motor!
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics Well that is just a rip-off! No part as non-complex and non technically challenging as that should cost that much, it sure as hell isn’t worth that much in real dollar terms. Being able to secure a car is important. It’s sucky how a critical part is ridiculously expensive because it is critical.
Nice fix on the tailkgate lock. I was an after sales tech in a UK Porsche delaership when these cars were new. Not an easy car to sell new tbh. Most chose the auto, as the manual cars had a horrid twin plate clutch and a very long gear lever travel. The 928S4 went to a single, larger diameter clutch plate and was far nicer to drive.
Catching up , been pleasantly distracted by a red bearded stranger. Great stuff, this old Porsche is starting to grow on Me. Cool wheel bearing adjusters, same as the old beetles. Didn’t see it but guessing You found the right to be left. 👍👍🇺🇸
Nice work re-adjusting that trunk latch. But it's painfully obvious that the hatch slammed down hard on something that wasn't supposed to be there. If the car was hit from behind, it would have bent inward. But this one is bent outward. Case closed. No pun intended. lol. Unfortunately, that crack can't be welded. So parts will eventually be required. Can't wait to see what's up with the sun roof.
I'm really enjoying the repair series on the vintage Porsche... I can't help but think of Tom Cruise in "Risky Business" when he rolled his father's similar Porsche into a lake... LOL... Ivan, how do I get 1 of those sweet PHAD t-shirts?...
Haven't watched video yet but I encountered a early 80's 944 that had a similar problem. If I remember correctly, the release is a continuously rotating spindle "unlatches" as long as depressed. I found that interesting.
That trunk lock can be wrlded with bronze to hold on for good time😊.and your diagram reading skills are superb 👌 👏 that mind boggling diagram is really tuff to understand..cheers
Holy cow! I can't even remember the last time I saw wheel bearing adjustment on a car wheel. I must have been 5 or 6 years old. I did it on tractor front wheels and my trailer but a car wheel. As the years of sealed, throw away bearings.
Move job Ivan on adjusting those locks! Ouch 700 for that lock? Wow!! Rock auto or ebay? Lol. Little things fixes with no parts required is super nice lol. Way to go Ivan!!
I over tightened one of those wheel bearings just a smidge, you are actually supposed to have a slight play in them as they warm up and expand and take out the slop while you are driving, mine seized while I was driving lol ,lesson learned
No, there is enough there, bearings packed, and cap at most half full of grease. Too much and you blow the seals, or the cap off, as the grease heats up.
I was going to point out that the extreme complexity of the wiring schematics also means that some engineer, or that some group of engineers had to design and develop that "Rats Nest". That in itself had to be a huge nightmare. I can imagine engineers up at night with pencils and erasers drawing those schematics out.
Most of the classic European cars should have some end float in the hub for the wheel bearings. If you tighten them up fully the bearings will fail prematurely. The end float is there to account for thermal expansion and that’s why they are so easily adjustable.
"Slow blow" fuses T1 T5 T10 used to be really common. To the extent I used to be able to go to my local electronics store and buy a bag of 50 for the cost of a beer at the time. Used on circuits feeding high in rush currents when repowered. I wonder if anyone still makes them these days or is old stock all we have of these "T"ime delay fuses?
Are you not supposed to back those spindle nuts off about an 1/8th turn after finger tightening to allow for bearing heat expansion? I hate those clamping nuts. If they've been on long enough they will not spring open. My 85 300d had those and I ruined a new set of bearings and the whole hub on one side because of them. I should have replaced them when doing the bearings about 20 years ago. Good job on that latch. Does that back wiper work? I noticed the actuator is on the sill and not in the hatch.
The manager of the warehouse division where I worked had a Porsche 928. At 30,000 miles a front wheel bearing went out and ruined the spindle. It sat in our shop for 2 months waiting for a spindle. The rear window wiper arm kept falling off. He took it on a trip to visit family at Christmas time. On the way home he stopped at a drive through to get coffee. The window wouldn't go back up so he had to drive 80 miles in below zero weather to get home with the window down. Then it started losing power steering fluid and the steering would quit working. It didn't leave a puddle on the ground. We put it on ramps to get under it and found that the boots on the steering rack were full of fluid. I told him I idn't see any way to get the rack out withot removing the engine. The owner checked with the Porsche dealer who was 80 miles away. The rack cost $1500 and $2500 labor to replace it. They confirmed that the engine had to be removed to replace it. I drained the fluid out of the boots. He drove it to the Chevy dealer and traded it in on a pickup truck.
very interesting design on that bearing nut never seen anything like that before. What really shocked me is the Radio Shack glass fuse. Only Ivan would have something like that in stock.
Glass fuses are a common item in automotive, at least a step above the tubular clip in fuses from the 1970's, which would always give you trouble after a while. You would swear they were designed by Lucas as a punishment for mechanics all over the world.
The sequence of failure is usually something is in the latch the door shuts and jams the latch the lid is forced breaking the plastic and bending the mounting which is the fault you see
It lost its park position. . Had a caddy that had a convertible tip that had the same type system and it had aground wire in the wrongbplace and it would always return to the same position because the stop switch didn't have a ground to stop it in the latch position
Try cross referencing to VAG (Volkswagen Audi group) for cheaper parts, like Audi 80/100 hatch latch, for example, [ike Ferrari and Fiat, partners in deceptive parts borrowing
It looks like the back bumper has been gently hit, shoving the back panel inward at one time. Now weld the latch housing and you have another no-parts repair.
That crossed my mind, but the type of metal is a cheap pot metal, not steel. Plus you have the plastic and rubber parts nearby...kind of risky to weld IMO
@@michaelfraser5723 I owned a couple 924's 1977 & 78 they were simple to work on. Completely rebuilt the 77's engine. A friend had a 928 and everything on that was an absolute pain in the rear to work on. I sympathize with Ivan having to deal with the crazy wiring. At that time Porsche was really into complicated relay circuits.
I was wondering if you could bond a thin piece of sheet metal over that crack and call it good. Or maybe weld it. BTW, just bought a tig welder up at the big aviation event at Oshkosh, and I don't even know how to weld. Got a good rebate on it, and I've always wanted to learn how to weld aluminum, especially thinner stuff. Apparently I picked the hardest technique on the hardest metal and don't know a thing about welding :-)
Why would you get one of these with an automatic, you ask? Well, I was sick of banging gears, and the '89 Porsche 928 S4 with the 4-speed auto beckoned. It's not a sports car - it's a GT that works best on long winding curves and highways (the '89 was good for 165 mph) The auto trannys were very robust (MB S-class sourced) and trouble-free; mine worked perfectly. Also, replacing the clutch was a huge and expensive job not only for the parts prices, but because the 928 has a transaxle/torque tube - pain in the ass! The vast majority of 928's (in 1989, anyway) came with the automatics, and I never regretted choosing it over the 5-speed. So there!
I bet someone tried to slam that hatch closed when it was in the closed and locked position. I've seen a car door that wouldn't close because the latch mechanism was in the closed position.
Let me just gently air hammer this sucker lol. Bad design Ivan, sometimes we wonder what those engineers were doing when they thought up some of these crazy designs lol
There is nothing on that platform of cars (928/944) that isn't over-engineered just for the sake of it. What an absolute nightmare. The Volvos you worked on recently brought me around to those, but these are not looking good for Porsche.
It was the king of the road in 1984...Civic had like 75hp haha! My Dad had 1982 and 85 Civics in the 90s...primitive carbureted transportation compared to this space-age German technology :D
Well done Ivan. Shade tree fix is better than no fix for sure and of course another NPR repair by the King. Long Live King Ivan.
nFpr...... SFMF
let's not start worshipping skills; he's good, but others are lazy and can't be bothered to fix things properly
@@michaelfraser5723 well lil mike, normally i cant be bothered, he was worshipping Ivan not just his skills, and well, not my cup tea, at least he's not a science fiction writer
I worship this man's skills. What he does again and again is unbelievable ❤
Nothing better than Pine Hollow on a hot day.
Made it to 100 today in the Pacific northwest
I have an 85 928s. All of the problems you are fixing/encountering I have already had. Each of these items are problematic. I was able to weld my rear trunk latch and grind back to nearly spec...but leaving it thicker in spots where it originally broke (I see there is the large grommet/rubber bushing missing in the hole the latch goes into, this makes the hatch latch tighter but is also problematic). Big issue with Porsche, the grease used on the sunroof, switches, etc gets thick just like wax. It took me forever to get my cable free and the stick grease cleaned in the sunroof. Great videos! keep them coming!!!
The rubber insert in the latch receiver is completely missing, that’s part of why it’s cracked. All that sideways force is on the male latch instead of pushing against the rubber.
GREAT diagnostics :o)
I have dozens of glass fuses. I have a brand new house fan that requires one. The only reason I know is I had to take it out and test it because the fan quit working after just one week. The fuse was good and the fan worked after I put it back in. . . . Sprinkler clocks us them as well.
Interesting to see some "body work" and plain mechanical adjustments 🙂 Good job figuring out how the trunk release works, using that "friendly" diagram and a lot of brain cells 🙂 This car is just weird in every single assembly - designers always took the most complicated solution they could think of. I have a feeling the sunroof is gonna be fun (to watch) 🙂
Good old intuitive ingenuity to bring it back around. Nice work Ivan!
Excellent video, UA-cam knew I was getting bored of that tech video I was watching and sent Ivan to the rescue. Great job as always.
Nice touch seeing Ivan using a piece of plastic to protect the paint /body when using the hammer around the nut area on the hatch ,no one would know when the latch was bolted back up but thats just what a person that cares does! Only a little thing but says a lot about Ivans ethos .Salute
Even that is a Porshe, its an old one and well build. Almost all that is wrong with it, its fixed with no parts required, well you have to thank Ivan for that as well. But its manageable. Thanks Ivan.
Thoroughly entertained by the series of videos Ivan. Great job diagnosing a complicated electrical system
All these interesting issues surely keeps your mind limber. Great job
that shiny thing behind the locking nut (at 24:57 ) is a "control" washer - you have to tight the nut until you barely can move that washer with a flathead screwdriver. if you cant move it - you are too tight
Yes VW uses the same method, just without the fancy locking mech, just a castle nut and cotter pin instead. works beeter on the feel if you just push those brake shoes back a little to get them to not touch, so you can feel the drag. First tighten up a little more till the bearings bind slightly, then loosen till the washer is able to move slightly. Original installer did not do this, and the bearings were not fully home, and moved slightly into correct position, leaving the play.
That nut adjusting then locking device in the wheel is very unusual.
Easy and fast slack removal :-D
as a teenager, in USMC by 84, i was mainly a musclecar guy like everyone in the great lakes, and had a sort of secret love of porches esp that V8 cuz whenever i mentioned all i heard was v8 this v8 that well jerky THERES a V8! and those ads back then in Playboy etc., damn
I knew there would be a catch with this video ;)
Another fine round of sleuthing, Ivan, problem solving saving the customer a lot of money. Great job.
I’ve watched you fix a lot of cars. I certain you would be the one person than can solve the issue with the early 2000s Gm cars security issues
As usual, great video Ivan, and great diagnostic process ,I always say nothing i can’t fix without the owners manual or repair manual and a little bit of study time 📖 .
That has got to be one of the easiest wheel bearing adjustment process ever! I actually like the locking/adjusting mechanism. Good pick-up on how to adjust the trunk latch and get it working. $700 seems excessive, surely that is the whole assembly including motor!
$700 is just for the cracked part with the key cylinder. The motorized part is probably over a grand haha
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics Well that is just a rip-off! No part as non-complex and non technically challenging as that should cost that much, it sure as hell isn’t worth that much in real dollar terms. Being able to secure a car is important. It’s sucky how a critical part is ridiculously expensive because it is critical.
Nice fix on both requests.
Good one Ivan.
Love these old 928s Tony Montana special 😀
The scanners come stock.
IMO, one of the most beautiful cars of it's era. Thanks Ivan!
And surprisingly unrefined in some respects. That loud buzzing noise of the rear latch motor just wouldn't be acceptable in todays cars.
@@rafflesnh Right. Neither would that grotesque trunk release knob sitting next to the drivers seat!
@@rafflesnh I know. That rear window wiper mechanism is literally unbelievable!
Nice fix on the tailkgate lock. I was an after sales tech in a UK Porsche delaership when these cars were new. Not an easy car to sell new tbh.
Most chose the auto, as the manual cars had a horrid twin plate clutch and a very long gear lever travel. The 928S4 went to a single, larger diameter clutch plate and was far nicer to drive.
Catching up , been pleasantly distracted by a red bearded stranger. Great stuff, this old Porsche is starting to grow on Me. Cool wheel bearing adjusters, same as the old beetles. Didn’t see it but guessing You found the right to be left. 👍👍🇺🇸
I've had customers that thought their convertible top was broken but when the procedure in the manual was followed it worked every time.
HAHA I classify those as "user error" ...people pay me to tell them to read the owners manual! xD
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics it's that simple!
Such a cool car and series. Well done, sir. 🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
Nice work re-adjusting that trunk latch. But it's painfully obvious that the hatch slammed down hard on something that wasn't supposed to be there. If the car was hit from behind, it would have bent inward. But this one is bent outward. Case closed. No pun intended. lol. Unfortunately, that crack can't be welded. So parts will eventually be required. Can't wait to see what's up with the sun roof.
Super glue and baking soda to the rescue for that crack. LOL
I was thinking the last time I saw glass fuses was at radio shack. Then you showed the package 😂
NPR I like it! Nice job, sure the customer is glad he brought it to you!!!
Thanks for sharing your knowledge Ivan.
Peace.
I'm really enjoying the repair series on the vintage Porsche... I can't help but think of Tom Cruise in "Risky Business" when he rolled his father's similar Porsche into a lake... LOL... Ivan, how do I get 1 of those sweet PHAD t-shirts?...
Haven't watched video yet but I encountered a early 80's 944 that had a similar problem. If I remember correctly, the release is a continuously rotating spindle "unlatches" as long as depressed. I found that interesting.
That trunk lock can be wrlded with bronze to hold on for good time😊.and your diagram reading skills are superb 👌 👏 that mind boggling diagram is really tuff to understand..cheers
Nice job Ivan! He could maybe try plastic welding that crack in the latch to keep it secure 👍
That wheel bearing adjustment and cap is the same as the one on my trailer. Definitely old school.
Holy cow! I can't even remember the last time I saw wheel bearing adjustment on a car wheel. I must have been 5 or 6 years old. I did it on tractor front wheels and my trailer but a car wheel. As the years of sealed, throw away bearings.
Move job Ivan on adjusting those locks! Ouch 700 for that lock? Wow!! Rock auto or ebay? Lol. Little things fixes with no parts required is super nice lol. Way to go Ivan!!
YOU KNOW HIM? calling him by christian name..
@michaelfraser5723 Yes, I know Ivan pretty well. I've been a subscriber for many, many years.
I like the wheel bearing adjuster, looks exactly the same as the one on my 1970 VW Beetle.
Not suprising, as it is the exact same axle and bearings there.
I over tightened one of those wheel bearings just a smidge, you are actually supposed to have a slight play in them as they warm up and expand and take out the slop while you are driving, mine seized while I was driving lol ,lesson learned
Should the wheel bearings have grease added prior to replacing the caps?
No, there is enough there, bearings packed, and cap at most half full of grease. Too much and you blow the seals, or the cap off, as the grease heats up.
@@SeanBZA Noticed he removed quite a bit of grease but didn’t replace it.
@@stevenwolfgang2744 Not much removed, still more than enough there still.
I was going to point out that the extreme complexity of the wiring schematics also means that some engineer, or that some group of engineers had to design and develop that "Rats Nest". That in itself had to be a huge nightmare. I can imagine engineers up at night with pencils and erasers drawing those schematics out.
Most of the classic European cars should have some end float in the hub for the wheel bearings. If you tighten them up fully the bearings will fail prematurely. The end float is there to account for thermal expansion and that’s why they are so easily adjustable.
In years gone bye had to bend hatches back into shape. Very common complaint on that car.
Great video, Ivan.
"Slow blow" fuses T1 T5 T10 used to be really common. To the extent I used to be able to go to my local electronics store and buy a bag of 50 for the cost of a beer at the time. Used on circuits feeding high in rush currents when repowered. I wonder if anyone still makes them these days or is old stock all we have of these "T"ime delay fuses?
BRO you're Awesome, Love this repair series, the way you adjusted the trunk latch Superb😍👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Stay Safe😍
Great job Ivan, keep it up
Doing those wheel bearing adjust reminds me that I have to connect my 72 Super speedo rf wheel cable
Ivan, you are automotive surgeon.😄😃👍
Would a hinge adjustment help? 😮
Are you not supposed to back those spindle nuts off about an 1/8th turn after finger tightening to allow for bearing heat expansion?
I hate those clamping nuts. If they've been on long enough they will not spring open.
My 85 300d had those and I ruined a new set of bearings and the whole hub on one side because of them. I should have replaced them when doing the bearings about 20 years ago.
Good job on that latch.
Does that back wiper work?
I noticed the actuator is on the sill and not in the hatch.
Simply amazing thanks for sharing
The manager of the warehouse division where I worked had a Porsche 928. At 30,000 miles a front wheel bearing went out and ruined the spindle. It sat in our shop for 2 months waiting for a spindle. The rear window wiper arm kept falling off. He took it on a trip to visit family at Christmas time. On the way home he stopped at a drive through to get coffee. The window wouldn't go back up so he had to drive 80 miles in below zero weather to get home with the window down. Then it started losing power steering fluid and the steering would quit working. It didn't leave a puddle on the ground. We put it on ramps to get under it and found that the boots on the steering rack were full of fluid. I told him I idn't see any way to get the rack out withot removing the engine. The owner checked with the Porsche dealer who was 80 miles away. The rack cost $1500 and $2500 labor to replace it. They confirmed that the engine had to be removed to replace it. I drained the fluid out of the boots. He drove it to the Chevy dealer and traded it in on a pickup truck.
hahaha great story xD
very interesting design on that bearing nut never seen anything like that before. What really shocked me is the Radio Shack glass fuse. Only Ivan would have something like that in stock.
280sl same
Glass fuses are a common item in automotive, at least a step above the tubular clip in fuses from the 1970's, which would always give you trouble after a while. You would swear they were designed by Lucas as a punishment for mechanics all over the world.
Was that a god dang spare relay in the glovebox!! That the main/efi relay that used to bad every 6 months..lol??
I wonder if you could weld that crack in the trunk latch.
A couple of tack welds on that crack would help it hold up longer.
When a simple spring loaded pull solenoid latch release just won't do.. lol ;)
I had the orange Snap-On dead blow hammers and the plastic shattered just like his. Snap-On exchanged them all and said they were under recall.
Another great video. Do we see some car inspired grey hair
The sequence of failure is usually something is in the latch the door shuts and jams the latch the lid is forced breaking the plastic and bending the mounting which is the fault you see
It lost its park position. . Had a caddy that had a convertible tip that had the same type system and it had aground wire in the wrongbplace and it would always return to the same position because the stop switch didn't have a ground to stop it in the latch position
It wasn't obvious it appeared to be grounded but the Fram was isolated by rubber. Under the plastics
Try cross referencing to VAG (Volkswagen Audi group) for cheaper parts, like Audi 80/100 hatch latch, for example, [ike Ferrari and Fiat, partners in deceptive parts borrowing
It looks like the back bumper has been gently hit, shoving the back panel inward at one time. Now weld the latch housing and you have another no-parts repair.
That crossed my mind, but the type of metal is a cheap pot metal, not steel. Plus you have the plastic and rubber parts nearby...kind of risky to weld IMO
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnosticsjb weld will do the trick.
I wonder it if has had a minor biff in the rear which bent the mount face and cracked the roller bracket.
Knowing that the latch is cracked and a new one is 700 dollar I would have welded it. A bit of paint would finish the job well.
Ivan very interesting design on the hatch latch. What is the broken latch made of plastic or metal?
Why didn’t you repack grease in for the wheel bearings strange
I hope it doesn’t have electrical parking break. With all of these electrical issues first headlights. Now trunk
Tig wedding on that latch mechanism...
That hub cap should have been packed with grease: there should be a pin hole in the middle to let the air, and any excess grease out.
Hatchback- see hatchback release- see hatchback 😂
Ivan, what kind of grease did you use in the hubs? Is that special as well?
Yup $250 for a little tube at the local Porsche dealer 😆
I'm amazed at how much more complicated the 928 is than the 924. Those wiring diagrams are ridiculous.
same, they were working up to replacing the bonkers icon 911
long b4 the twin towers were demolished
@@michaelfraser5723 I owned a couple 924's 1977 & 78 they were simple to work on. Completely rebuilt the 77's engine. A friend had a 928 and everything on that was an absolute pain in the rear to work on. I sympathize with Ivan having to deal with the crazy wiring. At that time Porsche was really into complicated relay circuits.
I was wondering if you could bond a thin piece of sheet metal over that crack and call it good. Or maybe weld it. BTW, just bought a tig welder up at the big aviation event at Oshkosh, and I don't even know how to weld. Got a good rebate on it, and I've always wanted to learn how to weld aluminum, especially thinner stuff. Apparently I picked the hardest technique on the hardest metal and don't know a thing about welding :-)
Just gotta watch some welding vids on UA-cam and go to town 😉
Knowing that the latch is cracked and a replacement cost 700 dollar I would have welded it. A bit of paint would have finished it pretty well.
Why would you get one of these with an automatic, you ask? Well, I was sick of banging gears, and the '89 Porsche 928 S4 with the 4-speed auto beckoned. It's not a sports car - it's a GT that works best on long winding curves and highways (the '89 was good for 165 mph) The auto trannys were very robust (MB S-class sourced) and trouble-free; mine worked perfectly. Also, replacing the clutch was a huge and expensive job not only for the parts prices, but because the 928 has a transaxle/torque tube - pain in the ass! The vast majority of 928's (in 1989, anyway) came with the automatics, and I never regretted choosing it over the 5-speed. So there!
Good answer haha
Good job.
I bet someone tried to slam that hatch closed when it was in the closed and locked position. I've seen a car door that wouldn't close because the latch mechanism was in the closed position.
I imagine that part would be easy to get. 😂
Old car manuals told owners how to fix and maintain stuff. Now manuals just tell owners not to drink the battery acid - how times have changed 😂
Hatch latch could be micro welded if its metal...owner shouldn't wait long as that crack is getting longer
This car is a PHAD laboratory on wheels. German engineering ensuring plenty of work for automotive techs since 1984.
PHAD no parts required fix for now!!
workshop manual says the thrust washer should be able to move with pressure from a non levered screw driver. youve got it too tight.
Was that a "No Grease Required" repair to the front wheel bearing? 🤔
700$ cracked latch. ProjectFarm was just testing plastic welders.
Much better option
But the latch housing is METAL lol
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics Why did I think it was plastic...
The fuse blew on the hatch mechanism and someone repeatedly slammed the hatch trying to get it to close bending the Mount and breaking the latch …
As tight as tou can with a small par of chanel locks backbit iff hand tight as hard as you can
$700 for a damned sheet metal latch???? pure insanity...LOL
I almost fell off my chair when I saw that 😆
Outstanding
Let me just gently air hammer this sucker lol. Bad design Ivan, sometimes we wonder what those engineers were doing when they thought up some of these crazy designs lol
$700 for a latch...total insanity
@@mikefoehr235 yea, that's crazy town prices... Ouchy. I'll take Ivan's fix 10 out of 10 times ahahah
There is nothing on that platform of cars (928/944) that isn't over-engineered just for the sake of it. What an absolute nightmare. The Volvos you worked on recently brought me around to those, but these are not looking good for Porsche.
there was a time i wanted to buy one of these ones for cheap, glad i didnt 😂
Maybe the car was rear-ended and messed uo the alignment...and cracked the truck latch.
Nah it's a common Porsche Problem :)
234bhp V8 wow. Honda civic territory 😂
It was the king of the road in 1984...Civic had like 75hp haha! My Dad had 1982 and 85 Civics in the 90s...primitive carbureted transportation compared to this space-age German technology :D
It was. I have my 88 M3, not too quick compared to now, but way ahead of its time
@@marcodm Oh man an '88 M3...that's awesome!!
Yes not perfect but runs great
Instead of a trunk latch, look at the cost of a striker. Might be better. LOL
Go ahead, look it up 😜
Ebay...just those..
👍
The 928 and 924 were two of Porsche's biggest POS's over the years.