Thank you so much for making something so good! I wish more people were as motivated to produce such outstanding work and share it openly like you have. ♥ If all the connectors (DC + USB) could be vertical in a future version, that would be amazing! But until then, I’m ok the way it is!
@@airatooo Right now the only USB toolhead I know of is the LDO Nighthawk 36, and the Nighthawk SB. However, any USB toolhead should work as long as you have the 6 pin connector. The 6 pin connectors are 24v, gnd, USB+, and USB-
Nice work, looks neat and compact, I need something like this for my multi material system, but unfortunately I need stepper drivers, 4 to 5 drivers and 8 to 10 end stops and nothing else.
CAN vs USB toolhead PCBs each have their pros and cons. - CAN is more complicated to set up. You need a USB to CAN adapter and you need to set the software up. USB is simpler. - USB's reliability is what you'd expect. Works pretty well. CAN can be a PITA sometimes. IMO, based on my experience with CAN hardware, I think the majority of the problems are because of cheaply made Chinese hardware. There are some USB to CAN adapters using knockoff MCUs, or controllers that deserve more layers on their PCB but don't have them to cut costs, there are CAN distribution hubs that don't follow proper CAN topology, etc. If the hardware is good and there are no wiring issues, CAN can be rock solid. It is a protocol designed for critical applications like industrial machinery and cars after all. - CAN has limited bandwidth. The CAN implentation with Klipper supports up to 1Mbits. This is more than enough for vast majority of applications, but there are some applications that benefit from USB's higher speeds, like accelerometers. I always recommend setting CAN to the highest supported speed, 1Mbit, unless you have a reason to slow it down. - You can connect multiple CAN devices to the same CAN bus. With USB, you need a USB hub, like this PCB. This can add up when building toolchangers or other projects with multiple devices. - USB wiring is trickier. The wires need to have shielding, and they need to be grounded. - CAN supports Katapult, making updating firmware much easier. It is another initial step you need to do when setting up CAN though, if you want this feature. - USB, without protection circuitry, is not a good idea. Birds' Nest has the protections built-in, and so does LDO's Nitehawk breakout boards. I believe there are options coming soon from other toolhead PCB manufacturers too. But without protection, like a USB-modded EBB36 connected directly to a Raspberry Pi, can be very risky. If there is a brief disconnection on the wire, it can kill a Raspberry Pi. Again, newer boards like mine have protections against issues like that.
Found this on Teaching Tech, purchased one from West3D but I have not found any information on the thermistors, What, How, Why? I was gathering the parts (same HUB part) to add a hub+thermistors+MosFet voltage switches for chamber heat control on the Sovol SV08. Could there be a Version 2 with 6 more filament sensors for the BTT SFS V2.0, two MosFet 400 watt switches with screw terminals for the heaters and two fan ports for the heaters? The Sovol SV08 has no room in the stock chamber with the stock enclosure, I've added the top extension with the BTT HDMI7 and air filter but with the Birds-nest and cables I may have to expand it higher... Teaching Tech hasn't hit the chamber heating issue yet, big parts warp nicely at 40~50°C. Source for the STM32 would be a good thing, at any rate, $65 is cheap if you try to build one of for your self and that isn't counting all the time required.
There's currently no new version in the works, but if I end up making one, the extra pins for the BTT sensors will be added for sure. Adding the MOSFETs would add a lot to the cost so I'm not sure about those. It might be more cost-effective to add a SKR or similar board for those. Thermistors are there because some people like to measure temperatures from a few places inside their chamber, or on extrusions, etc.
Running stealthburner Voron 2.4r2, I recieved ,Lost communication with MCU 'nest', 2 times since using 2 color print about 1/3 into print. Normaly I restart and restart print and it finishes as normal? Any ideas, becuase its happend x 2 . Great product.
This is most likely a USB cable issue. Birds' Nest draws some 5V power from the USB cable. If the cable is thin, this can cause a undervoltage issue. Another possibility is if there are power hungry devices connected to the Raspberry Pi.
@IsiksTech usb cable thin ? that runs from birds nest to raspberry pi? I have usb C920 camera plugged into the pi, could that be the issue? I need a camera. My switch to pi 3 camera Just had the same error, like 2.5 hours into a 5 hour print ,
Yup. Good hardware made with quality components, designed for niche applications, designed and sold by a US-based company who open-sources their work tend to cost a fair amount. I promise I'm not becoming a millionaire off of this :)
This might've been great for the sovol sv08 toolchanger that Teaching Tech was working on. Great project!
This is fantastic. Just waiting for a UK supplier, then I can get one ordered.
Thank you so much for making something so good! I wish more people were as motivated to produce such outstanding work and share it openly like you have. ♥
If all the connectors (DC + USB) could be vertical in a future version, that would be amazing! But until then, I’m ok the way it is!
So far I have used this on two toolheads. Works great
Which tool head boards are recommended to use with this?
@@airatooo Right now the only USB toolhead I know of is the LDO Nighthawk 36, and the Nighthawk SB. However, any USB toolhead should work as long as you have the 6 pin connector. The 6 pin connectors are 24v, gnd, USB+, and USB-
Never tried it myself but I think there's a mod for EBB36 and similar boards too.
@@The_original_Reth LDO Orbitool 2 for the Orbitor 2 extruder is also out there. I have one I am going to be trying out soon.
Theres also the EBB SB2209 USB
Ordered one to throw in the bin of parts I've collected to build a stealth changer whenever I can actually get around to it.
I like it a lot. Will it also work with LDO Nitehawk SB? I would like to build my stealthchanger with it.
what a legend, this is great!
@TeachingTech check this out, might be useful on the multi head SV08
Nice work, looks neat and compact, I need something like this for my multi material system, but unfortunately I need stepper drivers, 4 to 5 drivers and 8 to 10 end stops and nothing else.
Have a look at the BTT MMB
@@andyl2895 Just did, and its perfect for my NXG-FRS prototype, cheers.
This is really neat!
Amazing project. For the uneducated such as myself what are the benefits of using usb over canbus for this type application?
CAN vs USB toolhead PCBs each have their pros and cons.
- CAN is more complicated to set up. You need a USB to CAN adapter and you need to set the software up. USB is simpler.
- USB's reliability is what you'd expect. Works pretty well. CAN can be a PITA sometimes. IMO, based on my experience with CAN hardware, I think the majority of the problems are because of cheaply made Chinese hardware. There are some USB to CAN adapters using knockoff MCUs, or controllers that deserve more layers on their PCB but don't have them to cut costs, there are CAN distribution hubs that don't follow proper CAN topology, etc. If the hardware is good and there are no wiring issues, CAN can be rock solid. It is a protocol designed for critical applications like industrial machinery and cars after all.
- CAN has limited bandwidth. The CAN implentation with Klipper supports up to 1Mbits. This is more than enough for vast majority of applications, but there are some applications that benefit from USB's higher speeds, like accelerometers. I always recommend setting CAN to the highest supported speed, 1Mbit, unless you have a reason to slow it down.
- You can connect multiple CAN devices to the same CAN bus. With USB, you need a USB hub, like this PCB. This can add up when building toolchangers or other projects with multiple devices.
- USB wiring is trickier. The wires need to have shielding, and they need to be grounded.
- CAN supports Katapult, making updating firmware much easier. It is another initial step you need to do when setting up CAN though, if you want this feature.
- USB, without protection circuitry, is not a good idea. Birds' Nest has the protections built-in, and so does LDO's Nitehawk breakout boards. I believe there are options coming soon from other toolhead PCB manufacturers too. But without protection, like a USB-modded EBB36 connected directly to a Raspberry Pi, can be very risky. If there is a brief disconnection on the wire, it can kill a Raspberry Pi. Again, newer boards like mine have protections against issues like that.
Hi, amazing project - I looked through schematic and wonder what is the function of NTJD4001N FET on USB output lines?
It disconnects the data lines if 5V isn't there. A part of the protection circuit against accidental disconnections.
Found this on Teaching Tech, purchased one from West3D but I have not found any information on the thermistors, What, How, Why? I was gathering the parts (same HUB part) to add a hub+thermistors+MosFet voltage switches for chamber heat control on the Sovol SV08. Could there be a Version 2 with 6 more filament sensors for the BTT SFS V2.0, two MosFet 400 watt switches with screw terminals for the heaters and two fan ports for the heaters? The Sovol SV08 has no room in the stock chamber with the stock enclosure, I've added the top extension with the BTT HDMI7 and air filter but with the Birds-nest and cables I may have to expand it higher... Teaching Tech hasn't hit the chamber heating issue yet, big parts warp nicely at 40~50°C. Source for the STM32 would be a good thing, at any rate, $65 is cheap if you try to build one of for your self and that isn't counting all the time required.
There's currently no new version in the works, but if I end up making one, the extra pins for the BTT sensors will be added for sure. Adding the MOSFETs would add a lot to the cost so I'm not sure about those. It might be more cost-effective to add a SKR or similar board for those.
Thermistors are there because some people like to measure temperatures from a few places inside their chamber, or on extrusions, etc.
I bought mine from west3d. Do I need to flash klipper on this? 2nd page of instructions?
West3D is a reseller and they source their PCBs from me, so you can skip nBOOT_SEL. But you need to follow the next page to flash Klipper.
@IsiksTech Thank you, great job on all your work and products
Running stealthburner Voron 2.4r2, I recieved ,Lost communication with MCU 'nest', 2 times since using 2 color print about 1/3 into print. Normaly I restart and restart print and it finishes as normal? Any ideas, becuase its happend x 2 . Great product.
This is most likely a USB cable issue. Birds' Nest draws some 5V power from the USB cable. If the cable is thin, this can cause a undervoltage issue. Another possibility is if there are power hungry devices connected to the Raspberry Pi.
@IsiksTech usb cable thin ? that runs from birds nest to raspberry pi?
I have usb C920 camera plugged into the pi, could that be the issue? I need a camera. My switch to pi 3 camera
Just had the same error, like 2.5 hours into a 5 hour print ,
65$
Yup. Good hardware made with quality components, designed for niche applications, designed and sold by a US-based company who open-sources their work tend to cost a fair amount. I promise I'm not becoming a millionaire off of this :)
I know quality products can be pricey, but the price here is reasonable. Still, for those less nerdy, the cost might be a turnoff.