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Curbless Shower Pan Planning: Schluter Curbless Shower (Part 1)
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- Опубліковано 23 вер 2019
- Learn how to choose a curbless shower pan with linear drain in this video. We discuss pitfalls of curbless shower pans and how to properly plan the installation.
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In this video we share tips for curbless shower pans with linear drains. Should the curbless pan linear drain face the back wall...should the curbless pan linear drain face the plumbing wall...we deep dive into these questions.
Schluter's KERDI-SHOWER-LTS shower pans were referenced. Here are the model numbers and dimensions in case you're interested
KSLT1930/965S = 76" x 38" (First curbless pan shown)
KSLT 915/1830S = 36" x 72" (Second curbless pan shown)
#curblessshowerpan #lineardrain #homerepairtutor
I always wonder how the linear drains were installed. Contractors treated it like nuclear code secrets.
You explained it so easy. Thanks. HomeRepairTutor will be my goto when I do my main bathroom.
Another very informative video, thanks. For a DIYer like myself, dos and donts are so helpful.
Very good topic to cover as a believe the curbless showers are the wave of the future.
I used a wedi pan single slope 60 inch x 32 inch linear drain on the side wall.
I am doing a complete renovation of the house so i dropped the floor to match the high part of the pan,
I think with a little more effort in most cases you can drop the floor more by sistering, cross bracing etc.
If the customer is not opposed to stepping over the drain and or doesn't mind the look the drain at the entrance your method is fine.
thank you so much for this video! Exactly the information I was thinking was a problem in designing my bathroom!
Great video.....got to help clients fully think things through in 3D!
So many different variations to think of. When it comes time to remodel that construction grade master shower we def. wanna go curb less & linear drain. So you know which videos I'll be watching. Keep spreading the knowledge guys!! Dirty Jersey out!!
thanks man, this shower took a lot of planning. So we'll have some great tips in upcoming videos. Hopefully they'll help you with that project!
@@HomeRepairTutor I'm sure they will. It's a ways off but, def. gonna change out the fiberglass surround eventually!! Hope all is well Bud!!
I just put Kerdi paper over sloping OSB to drain. Kerdi paper over drywall. Works great!
I know you said you wouldn’t do it anyways but just an fyi that edge cap you showed is to go inside the shower so you can avoid angle cuts on your wall tile not to give a nice finish look to a death trap on the way into the shower😆 Excellent video though!!
Great vids.
Great ingenuity.
Trying to figure my reno bathroom.
I want to do curbless but with two shower heads i think the spray will be a problem unless i shower door over the drain. Do you have a forum i could post my project in and get suggestions?
Thanks for showing the floor.. Answers my fear of needing engineering.
Did you use ditra heat duo or regular ditra heat
Awesome info
Great video
Great video. I am about to do the same thing with my shower. My shower is 38" wide x 6' long. I want curbless with the drain at the opposite end of the entrance. My problem (or may not be a problem ) is I have 11 3/4" BCI Joists running below the subfloor not 11 3/4" or so dimensional lumber. Is there a solution with BCI joists?
Hello, I’m having a similar situation the contractor installed the drain on one side like you have at the end, what else would you do? Or is it better to have
Great tips..thanks!
Any videos, details, or recommendations on how you would approach doing a curbless shower in a neoangle scenario? Any of the materials shown allow you to avoid cutting joists and put the linear drain at the door yet have all angles slope to that drain? Also all glass - no walls other than the longest two. Other 3 would be glass with a door. I’ve searched your materials but can’t find curbless angled shower with this setup. Thanks and great videos!!
Do you have to sister the floor joists or can you just add a quarter inch of plywood in the remaining bathroom area to get that level floor up to the linear drain? Obviously knowing that the quarter inch plywood in the bathroom won’t affect your flooring from being level with the remaining floor.
Seems that all the problems stem from using the wedge? Would it be better to dispense with the wedge and just go full custom?
Why does the subfloor have to be level with the joists, and how is this done?
Could you not just screw in a temp spacer 1-1/2" (or whaterver) lower than the joist then use an edge trim router to cut the joist down? Allowing you to put the drain in the rear?
We have to educate the client and move them to the better option. You can still have a curbless shower with the drain in the middle. kerdiline is really to be used with a curb. They can be fussy on the tile and its layout and design but water flows down.
True. This should have been pointed out as a better solution and not further confuse the homeowners.
Thanks for the great videos. Still learning on all this 'curbless' shower system. If I want to put a curbless on the second floor that uses engineered floor joists, I assume I can't cut into the structural part of the joist. Is this why you dropped your floor flush with the joists? Are there other options? Thanks,
that’s exactly the case, you can’t cut into the webbing - sistering new webbing and adding blockers to make the new 3/4” subfloor level with your joists is the best option and will help you make your new shower tray flush with the main bathroom subfloor
@@HomeRepairTutor My walk-in shower area is 42 X 7-10 (but less ~20 for a bench). Assuming 1/4" / foot drop, I would need at least a 1.5" drop. The most I can gain with this method is 3/4", right? Or am I missing something? Thanks,
@@Mogman150 you could put the drain in the middle ? did you finish your project yet ?
If you put the drain close to the entry area, doesn't this greatly increase the risk of a flooded bathroom? A little hair in the drain and it will flow out the door instead of pooling in the shower. I'm considering installing a second drain in the middle of the floor outside of the shower. Waterproofing the entire bathroom and having the slightest of pitch to the second drain if water leaves the shower area. I know someone who took a shower and didn't realize water backed up out into the bathroom until after it was too late.
Can you explain what if your shower drain is in the very middle of the shower area and you can’t cut into the sub floor because concrete and on the second level? Thank you! I’m a newbie, so if anyone can chime in that would be great!
If I was to cut 2” off the high side of the pan, what would the height then be ?
I think long wedge shaped trim piece is for when the pan is in the floor the depth of the pan. You are left with that angle which would be hard to tile. As you said nobody would do it the way you showed that is why i believe that trim piece is not for that situation. Thanks for covering this topic as I think a lot of homeowner are going to be asking for these curbless shower remodels.
What do you mean? That he should have lowered the floor a little bit more?
@@anrivera1975 Yes
Curious, why not drop the floor more to account for the thicker side, just like you dropped it to account for the smaller side? Wouldn't that direct water into the shower vs out?
You said 1.5 inches first then 2 inches the second time you measured it on that fat end then your text says 2 inches 5/16. Which is it?
Can these schluter LT pans be trimmed to 60”x32”? As in, to replace a standard tub. Love the videos btw!
great question, did you find out? That's what we need as well.
Yes you can trim the pans however you want. That’s the idea. You just need to keep the 7/8” edge because that aligns with the Kerri linear drain support (also 7/8”)
What would your recommendation if the board does not fit that I can cut to fit? possibly cut 10" on one end
yeah they're pretty easy to cut. You should be able to use a razor knife or a box cutter. Most people will cut the thicker end off. The slope will be the same angle no matter which end you cut. But getting down to the drain is the important part.
Very cool, thanks for sharing! Unrelated question, I see the bathtub on the other side of your shower there. Is that some sort of spray foam underneath it? I'm soon to install a large tub and really not looking forward to seating it in a bunch of mortar since it will add an awful lot of weight. If there's a simpler way I would love to hear it. I did just finish installing my curbless pan but I used the Arc product which has a lot more structure to it than the schluter guy there, wouldn't mind hearing you guys discuss the pros and cons of a heavier load bearing pan vs the lighter foam one there. That's it, thanks for the great content!
Thank you and that tub was embedded in Mapei's 4-to-1 mud bed mix for additional support. It's a Delta acrylic tub and the directions called for a mud bed, so we used one. The weight is minimal and should be okay if your subfloor and joists are properly sized. We recessed the I-beams in this shower and didn't have to compromise any structural integrity. So the lighter foam shower pan was nice to work with and the linear drain certainly adds to the aesthetic value.
I just had a schluter linear drain put in and it has 1/2" water standing on one corner. Can it be repaired without tearing out the floor? Thank you for your time.
No it cannot the drain was set out of level and so the tiles matching it also have a low spot
You don't need a the "tripping hazard". Just rip down the joists the additional pan thickness. If you have to rip the joist more that 1.5", make sure to run your 2x blocking that are sistered to the side of the joists (that you subfloor is sitting on) so that they sit on the supports on each end of the board (girder or sill plate) so you maintain the structural integrity. And don't use the crap pre-made pans, just float the shower with deck mud.
That is not acceptable in most cases, you are weakening a floor joist from 9 1/4” to 7 1/2” you cannot run that more than 8’, hardly any houses have a span 8’ or less, I would consider you hack if you did that and so would any inspector, in most situations it is against code to notch or alter the top or bottom of a joist. The best way would be to sister 7 1/2” LVL’s next to joists that run the full span of joist as long as not too long of a span, then cut down top of joist to match LVL height, but you may run into electric, plumbing, or ductwork in your way . Don’t mess with the structure unless you know what you are doing, the floor tiles will crack and you will have issues down the road.
Seems like a situation when you’re better off with a mud job then you can pitch it in 2 directions. Or stick with a center drain then you only need half the height to meet pitch requirement. Sometimes you have to tell the homeowner they cant have what they want.
Most new homes in my area we build up the subfloor with 1/2” fiberboard and then an additional 3/4” subfloor layer except for bathrooms. That way you can make everything flush out and have room for heated tile floors as well. Not cheap but makes the floor quieter as well.
Are you going to upload a video of how you lowered the subfloor in the shower area?
great question, we have a different video showing how that's done ua-cam.com/video/3Eu_CD6YPfg/v-deo.html
OSB in a wet area doesn't seem like a good idea
Alot of new homes that way with the webbing in the floor trusses being osb time will tell going to be a lot of remodeling in 15 20 years
Great video. Learned a lot. I’m about to do a similar shower. I completely understand why you put the drain at the entrance. That said, I’m really struggling with this design in the case of a drain clog. I don’t think it would take long for the drain to overflow outside the shower. I’ll be doing a waterproof ditra (heated) bathroom floor so it will be waterproof, at least until the water reaches the door. I’m just trying to think how I could do your design and build in additional protection for overflow. Maybe a slope on the outside of the shower. I’ll definitely catch a overflow right away but I don’t think the kids will. Lol. Any idea or is that just part of the deal with this design. Cheers and thanks again. Great content!
Also, if you have any ideas on the best way to waterproof/connect a non-schluter drain to schluter slopes pan, I’d love to hear the best method(s).
1:50 That is not a plywood.
Don’t have to use schluter pan just mud it and use sxhluter membrane over it simple fix
What about if it was a concrete floor?
Just mud it then schluter membrane over it simple fix don’t use the schluter base
That's why you don't use the schluter pans for one there junk and 2 using deck mud you can build a shower however you want much nicer and stronger
Bostick deck mud which is what we use can be a minum thickness of 3/4 inch up to 4 inches
Put down your cleavage membrane staple down diamond galvanized lath pack deck mud 1 inch at drain do your total calculations 1/4 inch per foot on total longest distance of shower for proper draining cover everything with kerdi wrap over over your bathroom floor 2 foot outside shower floor for safety and done ready for tile😀
👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻🇲🇦
thank you
@@HomeRepairTutor 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻🇲🇦
Linear drains are disgusting because they basically trap and hold all the crud coming off your body you quickly wind up with a mold and slime farm .
So basically either way will look like shit😂😂😂.
Why they don’t make a linear drain that can be mounted level with the floor board ( or under)and make the sloop for the drain with adhesive+waterproofing membrane ( without that silly styrofoam)🤔
Not a fan of linear drains, over time hair and other muck settle in it causing a smelly shower, has to be cleaned out atleast once a year depending on hoe many people are using the shower daily
Oh no! The horror having to clean it once a year
Build a knee wall
Profile s Not a real solution.
The universal building code for all drains is no more than 1 inch in 12 feet this schluter garbage is illegal ..
Everything in this video is wrong guys and girls. No disrespect to the man who made this but for DIY’rs this is wrong. I am a professional contractor who has done many curbless showers. You never ever ever put the drain at the outside of the shower. There are many different ways to do this. The easiest way would be to get a.”Wedi” shower pan and follow the instructions. With the Wedi system no cutout of the joists is necessary. You can use the Kerdi pan but you must cut down the joists where the pan is to lay. I hope this helps some people out there.