Nice one thank you for sharing your journey. Very helpful indeed. You had started the video without showing the world how you separated the pump housing from the motor and I had trouble with that part. For anyone interested. I tried beating on it with a wooden mallet, and a rubber mallet, and a soft faced hammer, and oiling the join, to no avail. Then I mixed up a 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF fluid and dropped some around the entire join and beat on it some more. It opened a crack. Then used a heat gun for about 10 minutes on the housing. Being so heavy it took that long to only just get it warm and did not hurt the paint any. But that was enough. I beat on it some more with the mallets and got it apart about 2mm and let out a small yippee. Then tapped in some screwdrivers where the studs are located and easily removed it. For the Impeller nut, I carefully tipped the motor onto its base, on my trolley so it could not roll out and break a toe, resting on some scrap styrene sheet to protect it, and then dripped some more of my ATF Penetrating Oil onto the nut and it spun it off with an impact driver with 21mm socket. Then more ATF and an hour to work. Wiggled it and turned it for a minute and it spun right off too! Also, soaking the rusted parts over night including the plastic parts in 10 litres of water with about 100g of citric acid ate up the rust, and left a coating on iron citrate on the metal which is somewhat corrosion resistant. For the rest, watch this great guide by MiracleMax. Cheers all.
Sounds like you were a busy guy! Thanks for the suggestions. It has been a while since I did the repair, but I think I just wedged screwdrivers between the housings and 'gently' tapped. You are right - being rusted, there were no shortcuts.
drives me nuts when people call screws, bolts, bolts have nuts, hvac is plus 1100 volts, still you did help me there, thanks, put it all together with lana cote ac motor, it is called rotor and stator
Hey stuarth43, I guess we all make mistakes on naming things - I'm always doing that & adding corrections during editing & it depends on what country we live in, but here in Oz, high voltage in electronics is generally referred to as an electric component or circuit, with a working voltage of >60-volts and ≤1500-volts DC or >30-volts and ≤1000-volts AC root mean square. However, a typical Australian household has a mains voltage of 230 V which is within the range of normal home wiring at 100 V to 240 V AC. Although this is the case, the voltage range is considered by homeowners as high voltage. To them, low voltage devices are those ranging from 5 V to 24 V. I guess what doesn't kill you, makes you stronger. Depending on the design of the ac motor, the rotor can be called a squirrel cage. I appreciate your input - I am always learning something. Thanks for your comment. :)
Pity you didn't show more on the actual diffuser removal etc. Those and the main impeller are what I have to replace and your video is the only one I could find that wasn't an onga pool pump. Mine's a JJ600 deep well injection, but mostly the same as that OJ800
Hey Sam, It was some time ago, but I think I may have tapped the defuser from behind using the hole shown at this point in the video. Turn the shaft around, then tap again until it came out. ua-cam.com/video/8ivPX2MVIug/v-deo.html
You are right Robert, but because someone had put the front housing on upside down, the breather hole was at the top and therefore the customer didn't notice water coming out. That's why there was so much rust and as you say, it could have been repaired quicker without so much damage if the original repairer had done the right thing!
I've got a very similar onga bore pump. Took it to 2 places to get it serviced. With one place, I left it with them and I can tell they didn't even bother to look at it or chase up parts, the other just tried to sell me a new one. I don't know much about them, but I can see The electric motor on mine looks like it hasn't done much work. It was just noisy in the impeller area.. Can you tell me where you ordered parts? I'm in Brisbane. Best regards Eddy
The motor bearing is firm but not tight in the casing and there is a gap between back of casing and center of bearing. Can the motor casing be used to push the motor bearing on or will it break the center out of the bearing as it is pressed onto the shaft? I assume sealed bearing requires no lubricant.
I was able to disassemble the motor without pullers. When pushing bearings back on, you should always press on the area that is going into a solid mounted area. For example, if you are pushing a bearing back into the housing, you would press the outer race of the bearing, but if you are pressing a bearing onto a shaft, you would need to press on the inner race. This can be done by a long tube to ensure it is going on square. Correct, sealed bearings have lubrication installed before the seals are fitted. I hope that helps. MiracleMAX
@@MiracleMAX Thanks for the advice. Looks like I'll press them back on with a couple of blocks of wood drilled to take the shaft, pipe socket against the shaft and two long bolts.
I drilled a 25mm hole with a spade bit in a couple of blocks of wood and pressed the two 6305ZZ bearings back on with my bearing puller. Don't forget to put the cover plate back on the shaft at the impeller end first. I could tell they had been heated up and the grease had leaked out.
@@flywire0 Well done for thinking outside the box! We don't all have specialised equipment and have to use what we have on hand. So is it all back together and up and running?
I have a bigger issue - I broke the motor fan and genuine is big $$$. Any advice on fitting a generic electric motor cooling fan. I can't get an 23mm (??) ID hub and I understand these need to be perfectly balanced. Workshop is a bit 'light on' but I do have a drill press..
I feel your pain! Mechanical repairs are not an exact science and you can't foresee what corrosion or rust will do when you try and remove components. If you wanted to fit a generic fan, you could fit a grub screw to hold it in place or you would need to drill out the centre to ensure you have the correct diameter. Just reviewing the video, looks like the fan has a flat on it to hold it in place. How much were they asking for the fan?
My motor had a different fan with an integrated plastic saddle each side of shaft clamped by small rusted bolts. Cost comment was from local motor repairer.
@@MiracleMAX Found it: ibb.co/drVqZfd - Use 2 x 5mm x 25mm stainless steel bolts to pull the 19mm saddles onto the 18mm shaft - under $5 at www.aliexpress.com/item/Uxcell-1Pcs-158x19mm-129x14mm-105x10mm-Round-Shaft-Replacement-White-Plastic10-Impeller-Motor-Fan-Vane-YT90-YT71/32957652401.html
Nice one thank you for sharing your journey. Very helpful indeed. You had started the video without showing the world how you separated the pump housing from the motor and I had trouble with that part. For anyone interested. I tried beating on it with a wooden mallet, and a rubber mallet, and a soft faced hammer, and oiling the join, to no avail. Then I mixed up a 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF fluid and dropped some around the entire join and beat on it some more. It opened a crack. Then used a heat gun for about 10 minutes on the housing. Being so heavy it took that long to only just get it warm and did not hurt the paint any. But that was enough. I beat on it some more with the mallets and got it apart about 2mm and let out a small yippee. Then tapped in some screwdrivers where the studs are located and easily removed it. For the Impeller nut, I carefully tipped the motor onto its base, on my trolley so it could not roll out and break a toe, resting on some scrap styrene sheet to protect it, and then dripped some more of my ATF Penetrating Oil onto the nut and it spun it off with an impact driver with 21mm socket. Then more ATF and an hour to work. Wiggled it and turned it for a minute and it spun right off too! Also, soaking the rusted parts over night including the plastic parts in 10 litres of water with about 100g of citric acid ate up the rust, and left a coating on iron citrate on the metal which is somewhat corrosion resistant. For the rest, watch this great guide by MiracleMax. Cheers all.
Sounds like you were a busy guy! Thanks for the suggestions. It has been a while since I did the repair, but I think I just wedged screwdrivers between the housings and 'gently' tapped. You are right - being rusted, there were no shortcuts.
drives me nuts when people call screws, bolts, bolts have nuts, hvac is plus 1100 volts, still you did help me there, thanks, put it all together with lana cote
ac motor, it is called rotor and stator
Hey stuarth43,
I guess we all make mistakes on naming things - I'm always doing that & adding corrections during editing & it depends on what country we live in, but here in Oz, high voltage in electronics is generally referred to as an electric component or circuit, with a working voltage of >60-volts and ≤1500-volts DC or >30-volts and ≤1000-volts AC root mean square. However, a typical Australian household has a mains voltage of 230 V which is within the range of normal home wiring at 100 V to 240 V AC. Although this is the case, the voltage range is considered by homeowners as high voltage. To them, low voltage devices are those ranging from 5 V to 24 V. I guess what doesn't kill you, makes you stronger.
Depending on the design of the ac motor, the rotor can be called a squirrel cage.
I appreciate your input - I am always learning something.
Thanks for your comment. :)
Great complete process description and video
Thanks Anthony,
I hope you get some value from my other videos.
Did you have a problem with a water pump as well?
Pity you didn't show more on the actual diffuser removal etc. Those and the main impeller are what I have to replace and your video is the only one I could find that wasn't an onga pool pump. Mine's a JJ600 deep well injection, but mostly the same as that OJ800
Hey Sam,
It was some time ago, but I think I may have tapped the defuser from behind using the hole shown at this point in the video. Turn the shaft around, then tap again until it came out.
ua-cam.com/video/8ivPX2MVIug/v-deo.html
Good job, Mark. The pump would be cheaper to rebuild if they had the work done at the first sign of trouble rather than waiting so long!
You are right Robert, but because someone had put the front housing on upside down, the breather hole was at the top and therefore the customer didn't notice water coming out. That's why there was so much rust and as you say, it could have been repaired quicker without so much damage if the original repairer had done the right thing!
Yes that is true. But I wonder how long the bearings were making noise before he talked to you. Have a nice weekend my friend.
Yes, you are right. Thanks for your comments.
I've got a very similar onga bore pump. Took it to 2 places to get it serviced. With one place, I left it with them and I can tell they didn't even bother to look at it or chase up parts, the other just tried to sell me a new one. I don't know much about them, but I can see The electric motor on mine looks like it hasn't done much work. It was just noisy in the impeller area.. Can you tell me where you ordered parts? I'm in Brisbane. Best regards Eddy
Hey Eddy, I just ordered parts through the local pump supplier. Just look up Onga pumps in your local area.
Thanks for getting back to me. Cheers
The motor bearing is firm but not tight in the casing and there is a gap between back of casing and center of bearing. Can the motor casing be used to push the motor bearing on or will it break the center out of the bearing as it is pressed onto the shaft? I assume sealed bearing requires no lubricant.
I was able to disassemble the motor without pullers. When pushing bearings back on, you should always press on the area that is going into a solid mounted area. For example, if you are pushing a bearing back into the housing, you would press the outer race of the bearing, but if you are pressing a bearing onto a shaft, you would need to press on the inner race. This can be done by a long tube to ensure it is going on square.
Correct, sealed bearings have lubrication installed before the seals are fitted.
I hope that helps.
MiracleMAX
@@MiracleMAX Thanks for the advice. Looks like I'll press them back on with a couple of blocks of wood drilled to take the shaft, pipe socket against the shaft and two long bolts.
I drilled a 25mm hole with a spade bit in a couple of blocks of wood and pressed the two 6305ZZ bearings back on with my bearing puller. Don't forget to put the cover plate back on the shaft at the impeller end first. I could tell they had been heated up and the grease had leaked out.
@@flywire0 Well done for thinking outside the box!
We don't all have specialised equipment and have to use what we have on hand. So is it all back together and up and running?
@@MiracleMAX The motor is back together but you can see in my next comment I'm waiting on a fan from China. I'll be back in a few weeks ...
I have a bigger issue - I broke the motor fan and genuine is big $$$. Any advice on fitting a generic electric motor cooling fan. I can't get an 23mm (??) ID hub and I understand these need to be perfectly balanced. Workshop is a bit 'light on' but I do have a drill press..
I feel your pain! Mechanical repairs are not an exact science and you can't foresee what corrosion or rust will do when you try and remove components.
If you wanted to fit a generic fan, you could fit a grub screw to hold it in place or you would need to drill out the centre to ensure you have the correct diameter. Just reviewing the video, looks like the fan has a flat on it to hold it in place.
How much were they asking for the fan?
My motor had a different fan with an integrated plastic saddle each side of shaft clamped by small rusted bolts. Cost comment was from local motor repairer.
@@flywire0 In that case, sorry, I'm not sure what to suggest. Are there second-hand pumps that the fan could be taken off?
@@MiracleMAX Found it: ibb.co/drVqZfd - Use 2 x 5mm x 25mm stainless steel bolts to pull the 19mm saddles onto the 18mm shaft - under $5 at www.aliexpress.com/item/Uxcell-1Pcs-158x19mm-129x14mm-105x10mm-Round-Shaft-Replacement-White-Plastic10-Impeller-Motor-Fan-Vane-YT90-YT71/32957652401.html