For my AC200 I used 280ah batteries that are always charged by solar. These feed through a BMS and out to the charging port on the Bluetti to keep it constantly topped up. This avoids having to charge the 280ah batteries with a wall outlet. If the 'Big' batteries run low, the BMS will kick out and stop charging the Bluetti but it will then use its internal batteries. When solar is available again, the main batteries kick in and start charging the Bluetti again.
This sounds exactly like what I want to do. Could you please send me a parts list and a how to if you have it. I would greatly appreciate it. Thank you.
This was my plan too. Limitations on how many watts of solar you can dumb into the Eco or Bluetti, so using solar charge controller to charge a battery bank, then charge the Solar charger from the battery bank using another charge controller.
I am using 16x 280ah batteries, wired in series for 48v through a Overkill Solar 48v 16s BMS. 48v x 280ah = 13,440kwh of available backup. The batteries are charged through two Victron 100v/20a MPPT charge controllers (smile.amazon.com/dp/B075NPQHQK) feeding from two different arrays. Don't worry about the voltage in the listing, they indeed charge at 12/24/36 or 48v. The output from the batteries is wired from the output side of the Battery BMS directly into the Solar charge port of the Bluetti with PV being selected as the charge source. The Bluetti cannot tell the difference between solar and battery at this voltage so it just sees it as a very large solar panel supplying ~48v that is Always available, rain or shine so long as the batteries have enough charge. When the internal Bluetti batteries drop to about 98% then it starts recharging from the batteries until it is topped off at 100% and then shuts down the charge until needed again. This setup got me through the recent winter storms in Texas for over four days running a fridge, 500w heater and occasional microwave + a coffee maker (can survive without everything else, but Coffee is a MUST!). For an example of the capacity, you could run a 500w heater for 26 straight hours assuming no recharge. I like what jehugarcia is doing here, extending the capacity of the Bluetti but I am concerned about using battery packs that, once they run out, are essentially no longer available - that is why I chose the 280ah LiFePo4 cells from China (took about 2 months to arrive).
@@houstonfirefox That sounds pretty great. Do you have a video on how you set that up? I have 0 experience with this stuff and am researching for a van conversion.
awesome content thanks jehu, from my calculations looks like just over 800 dollars to build the battery box if you buy the premade pcb from you and the 9 batteries, very cool and good value and not at all complicated compared to what most people would think
The makita box is a great platform and they come in a few sizes . It would be great to get more pcb options for other batteries . Many of us can’t get these batteries. But can get others .
After reading many reviews and watching a lot of videos, I chose this option for my first backup power station. ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxHypYDKHAN93Lp2RQpfvU_ksc70wJ00pt I was between this and a larger option that could power a wider range of items, but the price/size/capacity blend seemed right for this unit. Hasn't gotten a ton of use yet, but the build quality is solid and it charges fine via the Rockpals solar panel I purchased to pair with it. One thing to note is that the screen is optimized for a top down viewing angle, which makes sense, but this means it washes out at other angles - especially low angles. Not a huge deal, but perhaps a better option for the display could be used to provide wider viewing angles.
awesome idea, thanks Jehu!!! the PCB can still be used for all 9 balancers. (and 12V 2A charger) just EXTEND the connectors inbetween with wires (tricky but doable) so half are surface mounted and half are"floating above the others" . easy
I just built a diy solar generator with the 12v version of these packs (sold out a while ago). A DC power strip ( also for sale at jag35) And an old computer tower. I'm editing the vid right now. I have over 9 hours of footage lol It's 1kwh lifepo4 1200 w inverter And supporters 500 Watts of solar I also used the amp meter he sales for $50( works, but I can't figure out how to change the settings) I haven't added up all the cost yet, but I know I'm under $500 total. I also have 10 if these 16v bats that I'm getting ready to make into a 48v system for my bread truck. I really like working with the pcb DC power strip he sales.
@@BondedLiberty I think I'm gonna do a couple of vids on it. One to show what I built, second to show the actual build. I'll probably have over 100 hours in editing lol It was my first build, and it came out way better than I had hoped. Plus the computer tower has a window in one side so you can see everything in it. So of course,I put a light kit in it lol
@@LifePrepared after building this first one, I realize I can build one with all harbor freight stuff. Using the DC power strip ( sold on jag35) It's almost a plug and play system, sort of. I'm living in an empty bread truck. This is the first part of a bigger system. I'm making my system modular. I built this first because it's small and has the cheaper parts. If I mess up, not as big of deal. This part is all contained in the computer tower. It works as a stand alone I can take off my truck. It can charge with ac,DC, and solar on its own. But it's main job will be to run my 12v stuff In my truck. My truck will be a 48v system and this unit will charge off it. My main bigger inverter will be 48v also. I'm trying to figure out how much detail to put in the vid. Maybe I should also do a how to edit. I shot 9 hours of footage. I can do 100s of edits lol
Hey Garcia. You have inspired me in the 18650 recycle way, and I am building an EV with them! U have aprox 2600 of them, currently charging and testing capacity. Thanks!
Would the 12V 10A 'cigarette lighter' DC output on the 200P be a better charge port than using the 48V 4A AC charger? Charging from the DC output would bypass losses at two inverters, the Bluetti AC panel inverter and then the Charger inverter. So, you could charge both batteries at the same time?
Next version of the board stagger the initial charging connectors. Move every other one closer to the middle of the board. Should make room to hook up all 9 connectors without losing copper surface.
Ordering the board for power backup…to make one also…he was out of boards but notified me after 2 were available and ordered one…anxious to make this…the current battery supplier has 7 on sale for less than buying each. I may get 12-14 and rotate batteries every battery use or at least 50% used swap 2-4 each following use. I think the board deal..as well as the video and the rest is a good option currently…and probably last a good few years or so with frequent 2-4 day use per week. Looks like I can do this and I’m anxious to use it.
I don’t know if year(s) ago I liked or didn’t like this channel..but for its kind it’s one of if not the best done videos…I noticed little irrelevant info spoke..and currently the links work…really good video. Glad to work with it the channel by getting the board….really good video I don’t know if the info is only relevant, as I’m not an expert at this field of tech…really nice he stinks to simple words and most need to know if not all need to know…sure some will want all the electrical specs but I bet he knows them and would share if asked in video via email. If UA-cam has a award for a video like this it should win or come in 2nd. All around good job I can’t wait to have one.
You can make a step down converter 50v to 24v to power a cooler ( peltier ) ore a small cooler whit a small compressor that accept 12-24v its a modulair pack. Good video
Jehu...please look at those 9 charging port carfully....then you will find some kind of incorrect connection port on the PCB....please try to correct it. Thank you.
Finally getting near functional with my build…put the box and internal electric stuff in and waiting for my slow charger and the 48v fast charger and I’m improving it. …I have internal computer fans on the way as well as making it more difficult to get rain/moisture issues…. …plans are to drop the top wires, board, switch etc into the unit and adding a sliding hatch/door which could/should let it be in rain yet give easy access to the plugs, the coulometer/state of charge display, power switch etc have easy access also with them inside the unit they should be less prone to damage physically (including the water/moisture) …it’s kinda difficult to write as I’m still in the design/redesign phase as I do little things in and outside of it to also assist with the venting and water resistant features..probably going to add insulation/cushion to keep the batteries from moving and to make the wires anchored instead of dangling as well. I’ll possibly add a video.
For the price & features it has and will have..I expect this to surpass my delta max as my preferred battery for all uses that apply to both…sure it’s heavier and as this video design goes it’s got a little issues but the little issues and possibles of what it can be is way better…heck I could add retracting wheels…a flush retracting luggage handle and probably more…this will possibly even be preferred over the delta pro battery although I don’t plan to buy one of those…& better if I do all mentioned. As far as fans go I’m going to take a exoflow nice feature and probably improve it…ecoflow PPS/portable power stations (delta max for sure) has fans on top…flow is from top side in to opposite top side out. I’m thinking put a in fan on a bottom corner near the side at the long end of batteries which would be near the big pcb board and with an other fan on top diagonally across out and that would mean humidity in could be absorbed by the batteries and the charger while the pcb area would tend to have less humidity and so less issues over time.
I only plan 2 fans as the charger has a fan and just my 2 fans already will give the air the possibility of dead air spots less…unlike my delta max…which after almost 2 months of pretty much daily use has dust from airflow from areas that have gaps..usb/ac and probably every pluggable area has this…I’m gonna plug them as I don’t want dust/lint in if I can prevent it…shame they didn’t seal it better…few do like I would…few electric designs are sealed like I’m saying and like I’ll do to my version of this to the best of my ability..only Apple stands out and yet their older stuff had more temp issues even though vent gaps were less than comparables…. …anyway yea I may even add sealing to my delta max PPS..I mean I have plugs on the way for pretty much every plug it has and now I’m thinking adding some sealer/paint or such along the plastic where plugs go for it but as is delta max is pretty dang good….better than the Delta Max battery…I’m stumped why the DM battery doesn’t have fans…duhh?
I really think adding fan(s) will be a smart move with this build. Even when using the charger he referred to being only 4 amps it burns around 150-200w and that’s some real heat….wanna toasty car??? …get the charger and I bet it would even make a difference in Alaska In winter time…sure it would not be enough for most in that case..it still would help and also change the pack. No fans with the charger left in the box…man that would make some serious heat!!
Price to build this now is more like $1,000 or more now due to the PCB requirement to order at least 5 of the items and the charger and box are at least $120 for both if you get a good deal. Batteries you are already looking at almost 500 bucks, just for the convenience at this point I would rather save up a little more and buy an extra official battery for my Eco Flow Pro
Every single video that he makes is a way for him to misguide you to pay a lot of money for his bullshit knock offs. I recommend you save for that extra official battery that has WARRANTY and possibly insured if you buy from a reputable supplier I.e. amazon 2 or 3 years insurance
Problem. I used the pack to charge my Ecoflow last night although the Ecoflow was close to full. After Ecoflow was charged, Plugged in the pack to charge 3 hours ago and the amps keep going down over the past few hours. What is going on? Meter is now reading 41.4 ah and 51.5 volts, dropped about 10ah. AH have been decreasing with charger plugged in. I have unplugged the charger. Please advise what may be the issue.
It's a viable alternative to buying a company made battery, but it may be important to have both units communicate with each other, otherwise it's no different than using one solar generator to charge another. The Ecoflow River Pro has a port that will accommodate an external battery. The port includes a serial connection like the old days. The only downside is the primary unit battery needs to be depleted before the external is used. I wonder if it's the same thing with the Bluetti and the new Max?
You could just open the unit and add a 2 parallel XT adapter off the battery to inverter. ONLY DO THIS IF YOU HAVE THE SAME VOLTAGE BATTERY SAME CHEMISTRY AND SAME STATE OF CHARGE (full). This might confuse the microcontroller that is in charge of the fuel gauge
If I want to use this battery for RV storage battery what do I need to convert it to 12v or can I just connect it to the solar port in the RV travel trailer used for solar panels
I'm still looking, but did you ever use an ebike battery to power like tv, fridge crap like that?? I'm just saying I have an unused 52v 20amp.. and I was thinking about it.. you know incase stuff figure I should be ready if the power goes out for a few hours, maybe I can still power my tv ,router fridge even...ok, as far as I can tell I need a bluetti or something..
But can you combine a booster battery with Blueti so they both can be charged from solar and work together? Just like the original B300 does? Because you used solar input with the booster battery, so where solar power goes while booster is connected?
I see some problems: The battery packs are not mechanically secured. During transportation, they can press against the board and crack it. And, they can pinch the connecting wires, thus damaging them. The charger is metallic and is not securely mounted in place. It can touch the bare solderpoints on the faceboard and make a short circuit. I do not see bypassing diodes. If one pack shuts off in a series groups, it can be reversed. I hope the internal BMS's have a reverse polarity protection. I do not see an undervoltage and overcurrent protection. I know there are internal BMS's in the packs, but that will lead to reversing them as mentioned above. Besides, when one pack shut off, the wlole current capacity will decrease, thus overloading the remaining groups. I know about the fuse. It will heat up during high current demands. A global BMS would make the initial charging and ballancing an automatic process. And, it will ballance the battery packs and thus prolong their lifespan. And, it will protect the whole battery better.
Awesome build... but I'm not sure I understand how this battery can fully charge the Bluetti. As this custom built battery discharges into the Bluetti, the voltage will drop over time and the Bluetti voltage will rise. At some point the voltages will equalize and there would be no current going from this battery to the Bluetti. By doing this aren't you essentially connecting two batteries in parallel? I would expect that the only way for one battery to fully discharge into another is if you could keep the voltage higher than the one you are charging, which is not possible to do as the voltage will continue to drop while you are charging the Bluetti. Can someone please explain if I'm way off?
The Bluetti accepts an input voltage range through the solar input. I think it's like 35V-100V or something like that. As long as the battery stays over 35V it will still charge.
Please excuse me i am new to the solar game now Will that work with the bluetti AC200MAX the same way that the BLUETTI B230 BATTERY MODULES would as an extra external battery
I have Only 1 Question ❓.. Can you Suggest a Portable Power Station that can Accept a 250 Watt Solar Panel .. And I can use it while I'm CHARGING IT .. Thank You For Your Help 🙏
i checked the links for both the PRE-pop board and the batteries=== BOTH say page not found=== does that mean you are SOLD OUT-- and if so what other projects can you suggest to run my 17cu frig for a few days when the power is out after a Hurricane
@@jehugarcia Ahhh, your description has two separate Links to these batteries... the first of which was fixed and the second which remains incorrect. 👍
I have a Delta Mini and is there is voltage/wattage curve for batteries (& solar for that matter) so one knows a battery will not be too much; or is one safe as long the 75V is not exceeded? I would worry that 2 of the 36V batteries in series, with a 72V charge, might blow by the 300W max?
You should have PCB way change it so you can fit all the plugs in like intended... Also since you have the measurements of the Makita box increase that front panel a hair bigger... You won't have a pain in the butt trying to cut the hole out... Also if you use 3M Velcro with the sticky tape in the bottom of the box as wrapped around the batteries (alternating direction if course) everything inside will be secured and not slamming around should you move it... Also if you attached the pcb inside with that 3m Velcro tape it would remain a bit more water tight outside...
Do u always have to charge it from the ac voltage or can u just leave it connected to ur bluetti and let the solar panels charge the bluetti and than once bluetti full, let it charge the booster battery. That's what I'm wanting.
Wait up, the charger has a fan , but it’s enclosed ! Not sure I feel safe with that in hot weather. Also I’d pack the box with something to stop things moving around. Metal and wires and things moving ....
Well, the XT90 connector is a big hole as well, with those big stand-offs holding it in place. Of course it's also easy enough to make another cutout for a vent cover.
So the NMC battery based ones are going to be good for ~500 to 1000 full cycles until they hit 70-80% of original capacity. That’s considered “End of life” for that chemistry but it still has several hundred cycles left until degradation gets to the point where you’re getting like 50% original capacity and the cells are less powerful so you might find it shutting off when you try to run big loads and the battery voltage is under 75% Unfortunately these booster packs can’t get around the fact that the original battery is the power source and you’re just charging it up BUT if your power station can run the loads off the solar directly, then this booster pack is only getting cycled (not sure if any do this or if they are charging and discharging at the same time). I’d have to look into how these power stations work. I know most residential solar systems will power their inverters from the solar energy if that’s enough to power your loads. If it’s not enough then any extra comes from the battery. The LiFePO4 based power stations won’t degrade to 80% until they’ve been cycled somewhere between 2000 and 4000 times (full 100% to 0% cycles). I’m sure many of the companies put a little buffer on the bottom so you don’t go all the way down to 2.5V per cell which will increase cycle life. Same with the NMC packs. If you manually stop your power station from hitting 100% or going below 10% you will DOUBLE its cycle life (assuming your gauge is accurate and they can take a few cycles to calibrate). Running 80% down to 20% would triple or quadruple cycle life. Unfortunately this isn’t a common feature installed on the apps of these things. What you can do on Ecoflow and Bluetti units is limit AC charging power. Blasting them at a full 1500W+ is going to be rough on a 1500wh battery. You want to charge at 0.5C or less so 1500wh=750W or less. Doing a constant 1C charge from AC will probably not allow you to reach the stated cycle life, 0.5C would.
It would be nice to be able to convert my e-bike battery into a backup battery or UPS but I'm afraid to screw it up lol. Plus, with batteries, I always worry about fire hazzard
I have this similar setup but using the 3s3p adapter you have on your site but it cuts out after a few minutes. I have to disconnect one pack and reconnect to get it back. Any ideas?
You said that the batteries only support about 15 amps of current, but since you're running 3s3p (3 sets in parallel), that would mean 45 amps from the whole pack right? So theoretically about 2kw of output? That would be much better, otherwise you're looking at about a 720-750 watt limit on the pack. That's not great for battery storage, although it would be enough for charging other battery packs.
I got a Tesla battery I’m stripping down to build a 48v battery for a Bluetti Ac200max. First question I have is anyone build one yet that you can plug into the “Bluetti 2nd or 3rd battery port” to get the full power from it instead of running through the solar port? And any tips or parts list for what I’m building to work with the Bluetti?
Very elegant! Like it a lot. Is there a way to split the power output so part can go to an inverter (yes, less efficient) in order to exploit the AC200's ability to charge both by solar and A/C through both ports simultaneously? (To double the wattage input to the AC200.). If so, could this project battery bank output at that rate? Thank you.
these batteries are sold out where else are they available?
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Hi. Love the videos you make here. May I ask if you see any option to charge these battery boxes in an off-grid environment by solar? Thank you for your reply in advance! Adrian
Jehu, Jehu, Jehu. I’ve just tried making it through another one of your tedious videos again. I can tell you are really smart and creative but dude. I always hit pause and ask why. Why do I need to make a Bluetti backup with scooter batteries, or a squirrel on a wheel generator, or lemon juice poured through a coconut. Good lord how do you have time for this? There are a thousand off the shelf ways to do what you are doing without jumping through all of these hoops. Maybe I’m missing something but my time is money. Have you heard of Rube Goldberg machines? That’s what you are making. Good luck to you making lots of money but I’d rather spend my time watching Will Prowse Solar and save a lot of frustration.
During the balancing operation, those batteries are in parallel right? What if a low battery and high battery are connected, wouldn't there be excessive current flow?
this is the newest battery that works with solar generators, you might need 2 of them I don't remember the amp draw of the AC200 jag35.com/products/eb4-36v-21ah-750wh-high-performance-ebike-battery
For my AC200 I used 280ah batteries that are always charged by solar. These feed through a BMS and out to the charging port on the Bluetti to keep it constantly topped up. This avoids having to charge the 280ah batteries with a wall outlet. If the 'Big' batteries run low, the BMS will kick out and stop charging the Bluetti but it will then use its internal batteries. When solar is available again, the main batteries kick in and start charging the Bluetti again.
This sounds exactly like what I want to do. Could you please send me a parts list and a how to if you have it. I would greatly appreciate it. Thank you.
This was my plan too. Limitations on how many watts of solar you can dumb into the Eco or Bluetti, so using solar charge controller to charge a battery bank, then charge the Solar charger from the battery bank using another charge controller.
I'd be interested in doing a setup like this too. What all did you use?
I am using 16x 280ah batteries, wired in series for 48v through a Overkill Solar 48v 16s BMS. 48v x 280ah = 13,440kwh of available backup. The batteries are charged through two Victron 100v/20a MPPT charge controllers (smile.amazon.com/dp/B075NPQHQK) feeding from two different arrays. Don't worry about the voltage in the listing, they indeed charge at 12/24/36 or 48v.
The output from the batteries is wired from the output side of the Battery BMS directly into the Solar charge port of the Bluetti with PV being selected as the charge source. The Bluetti cannot tell the difference between solar and battery at this voltage so it just sees it as a very large solar panel supplying ~48v that is Always available, rain or shine so long as the batteries have enough charge. When the internal Bluetti batteries drop to about 98% then it starts recharging from the batteries until it is topped off at 100% and then shuts down the charge until needed again.
This setup got me through the recent winter storms in Texas for over four days running a fridge, 500w heater and occasional microwave + a coffee maker (can survive without everything else, but Coffee is a MUST!). For an example of the capacity, you could run a 500w heater for 26 straight hours assuming no recharge.
I like what jehugarcia is doing here, extending the capacity of the Bluetti but I am concerned about using battery packs that, once they run out, are essentially no longer available - that is why I chose the 280ah LiFePo4 cells from China (took about 2 months to arrive).
@@houstonfirefox That sounds pretty great. Do you have a video on how you set that up? I have 0 experience with this stuff and am researching for a van conversion.
Jehu, you should make a video puting 2,3,4+ of these booster packs in parallel!
Great video. This is the best bang for the buck!!!
awesome content thanks jehu, from my calculations looks like just over 800 dollars to build the battery box if you buy the premade pcb from you and the 9 batteries, very cool and good value and not at all complicated compared to what most people would think
This is very smart. Much easier to make a big battery box and avoid messing with all the circuitry for inverters and other junk.
NICE!!!!!! Now, just need to make it in a DeWalt Box!!!😁 Yes, I’m a DeWalt type of person!!!!😉 Thanks for all you do!
Why don’t you like quality tools? 🤷♂️ 😁
No! You need to make in a DeWalt box. DIY remimber?
The makita box is a great platform and they come in a few sizes . It would be great to get more pcb options for other batteries . Many of us can’t get these batteries. But can get others .
The makita box is way too expensive dewalt has one for < 1/4 the price same size
Love your channel, frustrating that I can never get the batteries after you make video.
After reading many reviews and watching a lot of videos, I chose this option for my first backup power station. ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxHypYDKHAN93Lp2RQpfvU_ksc70wJ00pt I was between this and a larger option that could power a wider range of items, but the price/size/capacity blend seemed right for this unit. Hasn't gotten a ton of use yet, but the build quality is solid and it charges fine via the Rockpals solar panel I purchased to pair with it. One thing to note is that the screen is optimized for a top down viewing angle, which makes sense, but this means it washes out at other angles - especially low angles. Not a huge deal, but perhaps a better option for the display could be used to provide wider viewing angles.
awesome idea, thanks Jehu!!!
the PCB can still be used for all 9 balancers. (and 12V 2A charger)
just EXTEND the connectors inbetween with wires (tricky but doable) so half are surface mounted and half are"floating above the others" . easy
I like to cover my screws that come from exterior components, like the pcb, on the interior with hot glue. Just helps protect any wiring from damage
nice
Awesome build and components I like the plug and play
Surely the charger is going to produce a lot of heat in the enclosed box?
This is amazing Bro! I love what you're doing!
You are a very smart guy! I want to future videos man you have a Lotta knowledge with technical stuff. Thanks for posting the videos
I really enjoyed your video!!! You are the BOMB!
One other item I am looking for would be the shunt. I didn't see that listed. Thanks for the help!
Looks like the shunt is included with the meter. AliExpress lists it with the product but calls it a sampler. Thanks.
I think it's a good idea to put the charger outside the box.
I just built a diy solar generator with the 12v version of these packs (sold out a while ago).
A DC power strip ( also for sale at jag35)
And an old computer tower.
I'm editing the vid right now.
I have over 9 hours of footage lol
It's 1kwh lifepo4
1200 w inverter
And supporters 500 Watts of solar
I also used the amp meter he sales for $50( works, but I can't figure out how to change the settings)
I haven't added up all the cost yet, but I know I'm under $500 total.
I also have 10 if these 16v bats that I'm getting ready to make into a 48v system for my bread truck.
I really like working with the pcb DC power strip he sales.
Good work!!
I also got those 12v packs coming. I look forward to seeing your build!
@@BondedLiberty I think I'm gonna do a couple of vids on it.
One to show what I built, second to show the actual build.
I'll probably have over 100 hours in editing lol
It was my first build, and it came out way better than I had hoped.
Plus the computer tower has a window in one side so you can see everything in it. So of course,I put a light kit in it lol
@@bikeradam I can't wait to see it! Hope it is beginner friendly.
@@LifePrepared after building this first one, I realize I can build one with all harbor freight stuff.
Using the DC power strip ( sold on jag35)
It's almost a plug and play system, sort of.
I'm living in an empty bread truck. This is the first part of a bigger system.
I'm making my system modular. I built this first because it's small and has the cheaper parts. If I mess up, not as big of deal.
This part is all contained in the computer tower.
It works as a stand alone I can take off my truck. It can charge with ac,DC, and solar on its own.
But it's main job will be to run my 12v stuff In my truck.
My truck will be a 48v system and this unit will charge off it.
My main bigger inverter will be 48v also.
I'm trying to figure out how much detail to put in the vid. Maybe I should also do a how to edit.
I shot 9 hours of footage. I can do 100s of edits lol
You are making great progress.
I made it. It’s fantastic! Great job making it easy!
Where did you get the standoffs from?
@@latymz came in the kit from PCB way.
@@MrSkipturner Cool, I'll check my kit.
Hey Garcia. You have inspired me in the 18650 recycle way, and I am building an EV with them! U have aprox 2600 of them, currently charging and testing capacity. Thanks!
Would the 12V 10A 'cigarette lighter' DC output on the 200P be a better charge port than using the 48V 4A AC charger?
Charging from the DC output would bypass losses at two inverters, the Bluetti AC panel inverter and then the Charger inverter. So, you could charge both batteries at the same time?
you do so much for this community
Jehu you freakin' rock dude
Next version of the board stagger the initial charging connectors. Move every other one closer to the middle of the board. Should make room to hook up all 9 connectors without losing copper surface.
This is single lot project, so no v2 unless he updates for 100% DIY only builds.
Ordering the board for power backup…to make one also…he was out of boards but notified me after 2 were available and ordered one…anxious to make this…the current battery supplier has 7 on sale for less than buying each. I may get 12-14 and rotate batteries every battery use or at least 50% used swap 2-4 each following use. I think the board deal..as well as the video and the rest is a good option currently…and probably last a good few years or so with frequent 2-4 day use per week.
Looks like I can do this and I’m anxious to use it.
I don’t know if year(s) ago I liked or didn’t like this channel..but for its kind it’s one of if not the best done videos…I noticed little irrelevant info spoke..and currently the links work…really good video. Glad to work with it the channel by getting the board….really good video I don’t know if the info is only relevant, as I’m not an expert at this field of tech…really nice he stinks to simple words and most need to know if not all need to know…sure some will want all the electrical specs but I bet he knows them and would share if asked in video via email.
If UA-cam has a award for a video like this it should win or come in 2nd. All around good job I can’t wait to have one.
You can make a step down converter 50v to 24v to power a cooler ( peltier ) ore a small cooler whit a small compressor that accept 12-24v its a modulair pack.
Good video
Jehu...please look at those 9 charging port carfully....then you will find some kind of incorrect connection port on the PCB....please try to correct it. Thank you.
Can I have the diy battery permanently plugged into the wall and connected to the power station at the same time?
Finally getting near functional with my build…put the box and internal electric stuff in and waiting for my slow charger and the 48v fast charger and I’m improving it.
…I have internal computer fans on the way as well as making it more difficult to get rain/moisture issues…. …plans are to drop the top wires, board, switch etc into the unit and adding a sliding hatch/door which could/should let it be in rain yet give easy access to the plugs, the coulometer/state of charge display, power switch etc have easy access also with them inside the unit they should be less prone to damage physically (including the water/moisture) …it’s kinda difficult to write as I’m still in the design/redesign phase as I do little things in and outside of it to also assist with the venting and water resistant features..probably going to add insulation/cushion to keep the batteries from moving and to make the wires anchored instead of dangling as well. I’ll possibly add a video.
For the price & features it has and will have..I expect this to surpass my delta max as my preferred battery for all uses that apply to both…sure it’s heavier and as this video design goes it’s got a little issues but the little issues and possibles of what it can be is way better…heck I could add retracting wheels…a flush retracting luggage handle and probably more…this will possibly even be preferred over the delta pro battery although I don’t plan to buy one of those…& better if I do all mentioned.
As far as fans go I’m going to take a exoflow nice feature and probably improve it…ecoflow PPS/portable power stations (delta max for sure) has fans on top…flow is from top side in to opposite top side out. I’m thinking put a in fan on a bottom corner near the side at the long end of batteries which would be near the big pcb board and with an other fan on top diagonally across out and that would mean humidity in could be absorbed by the batteries and the charger while the pcb area would tend to have less humidity and so less issues over time.
I only plan 2 fans as the charger has a fan and just my 2 fans already will give the air the possibility of dead air spots less…unlike my delta max…which after almost 2 months of pretty much daily use has dust from airflow from areas that have gaps..usb/ac and probably every pluggable area has this…I’m gonna plug them as I don’t want dust/lint in if I can prevent it…shame they didn’t seal it better…few do like I would…few electric designs are sealed like I’m saying and like I’ll do to my version of this to the best of my ability..only Apple stands out and yet their older stuff had more temp issues even though vent gaps were less than comparables….
…anyway yea I may even add sealing to my delta max PPS..I mean I have plugs on the way for pretty much every plug it has and now I’m thinking adding some sealer/paint or such along the plastic where plugs go for it but as is delta max is pretty dang good….better than the Delta Max battery…I’m stumped why the DM battery doesn’t have fans…duhh?
I really think adding fan(s) will be a smart move with this build. Even when using the charger he referred to being only 4 amps it burns around 150-200w and that’s some real heat….wanna toasty car??? …get the charger and I bet it would even make a difference in Alaska In winter time…sure it would not be enough for most in that case..it still would help and also change the pack.
No fans with the charger left in the box…man that would make some serious heat!!
Price to build this now is more like $1,000 or more now due to the PCB requirement to order at least 5 of the items and the charger and box are at least $120 for both if you get a good deal. Batteries you are already looking at almost 500 bucks, just for the convenience at this point I would rather save up a little more and buy an extra official battery for my Eco Flow Pro
Every single video that he makes is a way for him to misguide you to pay a lot of money for his bullshit knock offs. I recommend you save for that extra official battery that has WARRANTY and possibly insured if you buy from a reputable supplier I.e. amazon 2 or 3 years insurance
Problem. I used the pack to charge my Ecoflow last night although the Ecoflow was close to full. After Ecoflow was charged, Plugged in the pack to charge 3 hours ago and the amps keep going down over the past few hours. What is going on? Meter is now reading 41.4 ah and 51.5 volts, dropped about 10ah. AH have been decreasing with charger plugged in. I have unplugged the charger. Please advise what may be the issue.
BTW, charger fan makes a lot of noise for the first minute or so, then returns to normal. Like the fan blade is not seated properly.
Thanks, I guess I need to figure out how to check if the charger works.
What about adding a 12v down converter? I have the jackery 500 I could charge up plus just using it for dc devices would be incredible.
When I go to the website to purchase one of the OBX-E Battery Packs, it tells me that the page cannot be found.
Very nice build
Love this channel. Always great videos 👍😉
Thanks for sharing,
👍👍👍👍👍THUMBS UP👍👍👍👍👍
Anthony, Derby, UK
It's a viable alternative to buying a company made battery, but it may be important to have both units communicate with each other, otherwise it's no different than using one solar generator to charge another. The Ecoflow River Pro has a port that will accommodate an external battery. The port includes a serial connection like the old days. The only downside is the primary unit battery needs to be depleted before the external is used. I wonder if it's the same thing with the Bluetti and the new Max?
you can connect them and USE energy same time. (correct me if I'm wrong)
You could just open the unit and add a 2 parallel XT adapter off the battery to inverter.
ONLY DO THIS IF YOU HAVE THE SAME VOLTAGE BATTERY SAME CHEMISTRY AND SAME STATE OF CHARGE (full). This might confuse the microcontroller that is in charge of the fuel gauge
If I want to use this battery for RV storage battery what do I need to convert it to 12v or can I just connect it to the solar port in the RV travel trailer used for solar panels
I'm still looking, but did you ever use an ebike battery to power like tv, fridge crap like that?? I'm just saying I have an unused 52v 20amp.. and I was thinking about it.. you know incase stuff figure I should be ready if the power goes out for a few hours, maybe I can still power my tv ,router fridge even...ok, as far as I can tell I need a bluetti or something..
Just learning how to do this and really enjoy your channel. Do you have any really beginner level videos to get started with?
Going Green Definitely 🔋
Okay can you make another project like this with the batteries that you have in stock? Maybe an updated parts list???
Yes working on it
But can you combine a booster battery with Blueti so they both can be charged from solar and work together? Just like the original B300 does? Because you used solar input with the booster battery, so where solar power goes while booster is connected?
Very clever the only thing it would be good if there was a way to charge them simultaneously with solar panels
hey. do you have a video or guide on these cylindrical battery packs?
I see some problems:
The battery packs are not mechanically secured. During transportation, they can press against the board and crack it. And, they can pinch the connecting wires, thus damaging them.
The charger is metallic and is not securely mounted in place. It can touch the bare solderpoints on the faceboard and make a short circuit.
I do not see bypassing diodes. If one pack shuts off in a series groups, it can be reversed. I hope the internal BMS's have a reverse polarity protection.
I do not see an undervoltage and overcurrent protection. I know there are internal BMS's in the packs, but that will lead to reversing them as mentioned above. Besides, when one pack shut off, the wlole current capacity will decrease, thus overloading the remaining groups. I know about the fuse. It will heat up during high current demands.
A global BMS would make the initial charging and ballancing an automatic process. And, it will ballance the battery packs and thus prolong their lifespan. And, it will protect the whole battery better.
Great content! Can you do a tutorial for the UPS battery?
Awesome build... but I'm not sure I understand how this battery can fully charge the Bluetti. As this custom built battery discharges into the Bluetti, the voltage will drop over time and the Bluetti voltage will rise. At some point the voltages will equalize and there would be no current going from this battery to the Bluetti. By doing this aren't you essentially connecting two batteries in parallel? I would expect that the only way for one battery to fully discharge into another is if you could keep the voltage higher than the one you are charging, which is not possible to do as the voltage will continue to drop while you are charging the Bluetti. Can someone please explain if I'm way off?
The Bluetti accepts an input voltage range through the solar input. I think it's like 35V-100V or something like that. As long as the battery stays over 35V it will still charge.
Please excuse me i am new to the solar game now Will that work with the bluetti AC200MAX the same way that the BLUETTI B230 BATTERY MODULES would as an extra external battery
I have Only 1 Question ❓..
Can you Suggest a Portable Power Station that can Accept a 250 Watt Solar Panel ..
And I can use it while I'm CHARGING IT ..
Thank You For Your Help 🙏
i checked the links for both the PRE-pop board and the batteries=== BOTH say page not found=== does that mean you are SOLD OUT-- and if so what other projects can you suggest to run my 17cu frig for a few days when the power is out after a Hurricane
9x-obx-e battery packs page is not found. The link doesn’t work. Or am I too early?
Fixed now
@@jehugarcia Hmmm, link(s) still not working :(
@@jehugarcia Ahhh, your description has two separate Links to these batteries... the first of which was fixed and the second which remains incorrect. 👍
you are doing gods work!!!!!!!
Great video , I would buy that 3.3 kWh battery for $600 if we needed it
Can these charge and discharge at the same time? Like if I had a solar charge controller pushing juice in, could I have them power something too?
Yes
You are a freaking goat 🐐 🙌🏽🙌🏽🙌🏽🙌🏽🙌🏽🙌🏽👌…making my first ups power wall
Can you build a battery booster using Ryobi rechargeable batteries
Put the other four connector for initial balance on back side of the board
Good ide but will the PCB fit in the space allowed in the box then ?
Super !!! as always
thanks
how would you charge back up?
The power meter from Aliexpress is out of stock. Can you recommend another one to use?
What about Bluetti AC500 and B300S - thinking about this.
how about solar charger?
Can you connect the bluetti solar input charger 500w into the ecoflow delta pro solar input
I have a Delta Mini and is there is voltage/wattage curve for batteries (& solar for that matter) so one knows a battery will not be too much; or is one safe as long the 75V is not exceeded? I would worry that 2 of the 36V batteries in series, with a 72V charge, might blow by the 300W max?
how would you also connect solar at the same time?
With a Y cable
What about charging this extra battery with the solar charge controller that is built into the bluetti?
Nice stuff Sir 👍
You should have PCB way change it so you can fit all the plugs in like intended... Also since you have the measurements of the Makita box increase that front panel a hair bigger... You won't have a pain in the butt trying to cut the hole out...
Also if you use 3M Velcro with the sticky tape in the bottom of the box as wrapped around the batteries (alternating direction if course) everything inside will be secured and not slamming around should you move it... Also if you attached the pcb inside with that 3m Velcro tape it would remain a bit more water tight outside...
or extend the existing ones with wires (tricky but doable) so half are surface mounted and half are"floating in the air" but usable
There is indoor only, right?
Do u always have to charge it from the ac voltage or can u just leave it connected to ur bluetti and let the solar panels charge the bluetti and than once bluetti full, let it charge the booster battery. That's what I'm wanting.
Great DIY battery, it it compareable to the upcoming Bluetti B300? Will you be reviewing the next wave of their products?
Well are you?
Answer us please
No idea, only if they send me units to review
can you modify the board to be able to keep all batteries in Parallel and maintain that 12v?
They are 16v not 12
And is there a heat shut off on the board ?
Wait up, the charger has a fan , but it’s enclosed ! Not sure I feel safe with that in hot weather. Also I’d pack the box with something to stop things moving around. Metal and wires and things moving ....
Lifepo4 plus the small bms throttle the out rate so no issue. But good to stay on your toes.
Well, the XT90 connector is a big hole as well, with those big stand-offs holding it in place. Of course it's also easy enough to make another cutout for a vent cover.
Very cool dyi
Another great vid !
Can I order this now and how much??? Also I only charge with solar so what solar configuration will I need?
Can you extend the overall lifetime of solar generators with external batteries ? Or will they die anyway so they can’t be used anymore? Thank you 😊
So the NMC battery based ones are going to be good for ~500 to 1000 full cycles until they hit 70-80% of original capacity. That’s considered “End of life” for that chemistry but it still has several hundred cycles left until degradation gets to the point where you’re getting like 50% original capacity and the cells are less powerful so you might find it shutting off when you try to run big loads and the battery voltage is under 75%
Unfortunately these booster packs can’t get around the fact that the original battery is the power source and you’re just charging it up BUT if your power station can run the loads off the solar directly, then this booster pack is only getting cycled (not sure if any do this or if they are charging and discharging at the same time).
I’d have to look into how these power stations work. I know most residential solar systems will power their inverters from the solar energy if that’s enough to power your loads. If it’s not enough then any extra comes from the battery.
The LiFePO4 based power stations won’t degrade to 80% until they’ve been cycled somewhere between 2000 and 4000 times (full 100% to 0% cycles). I’m sure many of the companies put a little buffer on the bottom so you don’t go all the way down to 2.5V per cell which will increase cycle life. Same with the NMC packs. If you manually stop your power station from hitting 100% or going below 10% you will DOUBLE its cycle life (assuming your gauge is accurate and they can take a few cycles to calibrate). Running 80% down to 20% would triple or quadruple cycle life. Unfortunately this isn’t a common feature installed on the apps of these things. What you can do on Ecoflow and Bluetti units is limit AC charging power. Blasting them at a full 1500W+ is going to be rough on a 1500wh battery. You want to charge at 0.5C or less so 1500wh=750W or less. Doing a constant 1C charge from AC will probably not allow you to reach the stated cycle life, 0.5C would.
It would be nice to be able to convert my e-bike battery into a backup battery or UPS but I'm afraid to screw it up lol. Plus, with batteries, I always worry about fire hazzard
What is d weight of all 9cells?
Good day sir i have a question. Can i use the power station if still charging at external battery pack?
I have this similar setup but using the 3s3p adapter you have on your site but it cuts out after a few minutes. I have to disconnect one pack and reconnect to get it back. Any ideas?
Page not found
You said that the batteries only support about 15 amps of current, but since you're running 3s3p (3 sets in parallel), that would mean 45 amps from the whole pack right? So theoretically about 2kw of output? That would be much better, otherwise you're looking at about a 720-750 watt limit on the pack. That's not great for battery storage, although it would be enough for charging other battery packs.
I think it was: 3s3p
- 5A per battery series
- 15A per parallel group
Thank you!
I got a Tesla battery I’m stripping down to build a 48v battery for a Bluetti Ac200max. First question I have is anyone build one yet that you can plug into the “Bluetti 2nd or 3rd battery port” to get the full power from it instead of running through the solar port? And any tips or parts list for what I’m building to work with the Bluetti?
Awesome video man.👍👍
Very elegant! Like it a lot.
Is there a way to split the power output so part can go to an inverter (yes, less efficient) in order to exploit the AC200's ability to charge both by solar and A/C through both ports simultaneously? (To double the wattage input to the AC200.). If so, could this project battery bank output at that rate? Thank you.
15A output
these batteries are sold out where else are they available?
Hi. Love the videos you make here. May I ask if you see any option to charge these battery boxes in an off-grid environment by solar? Thank you for your reply in advance! Adrian
Love your videos Jehu. Just bought my first Westfalia (1974) . Do you ship to Canada ?
Jehu, Jehu, Jehu. I’ve just tried making it through another one of your tedious videos again. I can tell you are really smart and creative but dude. I always hit pause and ask why. Why do I need to make a Bluetti backup with scooter batteries, or a squirrel on a wheel generator, or lemon juice poured through a coconut. Good lord how do you have time for this? There are a thousand off the shelf ways to do what you are doing without jumping through all of these hoops. Maybe I’m missing something but my time is money. Have you heard of Rube Goldberg machines? That’s what you are making. Good luck to you making lots of money but I’d rather spend my time watching Will Prowse Solar and save a lot of frustration.
During the balancing operation, those batteries are in parallel right? What if a low battery and high battery are connected, wouldn't there be excessive current flow?
No the bms will turn off at 5A
I have a eco-flo River Max I would like to expand it also what do you suggest
Mr. Garcia - I’m not seeing the balancing charger in your parts list…is this something that would need to be sourced independently?
Here we go amzn.to/3i7K12p
Very nice. Should this work on the upcoming Bluetti AC300 and AC200 Max which have their own modular battery packs?
I don’t know anything about those units yet
@@jehugarcia Ok, thanks!
So you can only charge from 120v source and not from solar?
Could I use it on EcoFlow river max
Is this battery pack still current or is there an update pack?...i have the delta pro and the delta 2
Do you have cany more of these partially assembles kits? How can I get one of these or something else I can use with my 200acmax?
this is the newest battery that works with solar generators, you might need 2 of them I don't remember the amp draw of the AC200 jag35.com/products/eb4-36v-21ah-750wh-high-performance-ebike-battery
@@jehugarcia It’s the Bluetti 200 Max > would 3 work with the 3 way splitter?