A very nice product. I like the battery flexibility and increased power. Both this and the original need an internal AC charger. Also, two AC outlets on the front.
Any chance two of the newer "mini" lifepo4 100ah will fit side by side? Is so only other issue is those look to be about a 1/2 inch taller unless you can pay them down flat statcked. That would allow pulling 2000w from the inverter plus having a 2560wh capacity would be awesome.
Very nice DIY Solar Generator, definitely a big improvement from the original plastic to this Gen2. I like the simple design with the plastic end panels. After watching the video, these improvements came to mind: 1. higher battery compartment 2. the bottom battery holder should have angles all along the length and all along the width, and should be adjustable to be used on as many possible batteries as possible. 3. more AC outputs for this more powerful inverter would be needed
10:00 With the high number of fires and meltdowns discussed on the diysolarforum, I STRONGLY ENCOURAGE heavy spacing, insulation and securing of the cells. These cells are very thin walled, and the metal is conductive to the electrodes, so any abrasion will cause cell heating, and discharge.
@@BradCagle yes you mention it is a good idea. It is very very important. Many builds have caught fire and failed dramatically from a lack of protection.
I used to build PC's for customers, using component parts. I always insisted on using "open architecture" parts, so that they could be serviced and upgraded without having to buy proprietary stuff. Not only was it more cost-effective, building this way was a lot easier and more enjoyable, because you weren't fighting with each component. I mention that because I LOVE this New Gen box from Licitti! Not only can you fit that larger, 170AH battery in there, the raw cells option is super cool! Willing to bet that controller is rated at 200w or maybe a little more, so it's limiting how many amps are flowing into the battery, to keep the wattage down. I'd try to find a model number on the controller and look up the specs.
One of my first real jobs was a PC builder/tech in the 90's. We hated, and talked badly about proprietary parts, stuff from IBM PS/2 microchannel bus, and all the packard bell, etc.. junk. Thanks!
@@BradCagleomg, microchannel… I had purged that mess from my mind… vlb and the buss after that one, then finally PCIe so much simpler and affordable. Then apple came out with FireWire and lightning proprietary licensing ports trying to do it all over again…
To see the solar controllers max output you could plug in the battery charger into the solar input, it'll only take what it can use assuming its within the mppt range.
Another great tear down. @6:02 that black wire that connected to the shunt and then goes down to the bottom of the box should have the same wrap for protection on it as well, I see that they put one on the red wire but not on the black wire. I am not sure how sharp the metal plate is, it may cut into the wire insulation. I also see the small white wire on the shunt that goes to the positive bus bar, it should have small inline fuse in case the electronics on the shunt shorted out. Oh, just to let you know, I do not get the notification from UA-cam when you release the new video.
Yeah, I guess it should have had a little length of the wrap on it. Yeah true most do have a fuse where the shunt connects to positive. Also would be nice to have a fuse at the battery. I think I would upgrade some things. Like I mention the battery cables really need to be better if you plan on pushing this thing. No notification, hmm do you have the notification bell thing active?
Great review you did there. I still have some questions: 1- What is that shunt rated for? 2- Would be nice to see panel charging and wall socket charging at the same time. 3- Is there a way to charge with an external charge controller and use that small 15/20 amp as a backup vharge controller? 4- Is the DC exit regulated or just a direct reflexion of battery voltage? Seen other videos, but not as thoroughly reviewed as yours! Great job and thanks. New subscriber here because of this video. Thank you!
The shunt, according to their site is 500a. It can charge from solar, and a external (wall socket AC) charger (via the black anderson) at the same time. Yes you can charge from an external controller via the black anderson connector. No the DC out through the black anderson is not regulated. Basically yes it is a direct reflection of the battery at that port. Awesome, thanks for the sub! Welcome aboard :)
@@BradCagle I also am a dedicated Off Grid Garage subscriber. My favourite you channel, but your review actually impressed me! For both product and in depth review of the guts of the beast. Nice product for sure! Just wondering if there is a 230V European version (Spain and Portugal in this case). Do you happen to know that? And the charge controller part number would also be nice, to upgrade it with a similar unit in parallel or a beefier one. The solar charger controller is the only thing that makes this unit lack regarding comparable units (Ecoflow/Bluetti etc...)
@@ricardomarcelino8388 this is the charge controller www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Solar-Charge-Controller-for-Solar-LED_1600478059402.html?spm=a2700.pccps_detail.0.0.175313a0OLYju8
Kinda neat. Solar input is a bummer. If you have an extra battery laying around its a good deal. If not the sun fun is the way to go plus you would need to upgrade the solar input because 200 watts kinda useless. One ac outlet on a 2000 w inverter? Maybe I am missing something?
I ordered on and it arrived a couple weeks ago. I put a new lifepo4 100ah battery in it but it keeos dropping below 10volts and the inverter shuts off. I hooked up a 200ah battery thru the ac/dc input and the amps are fine. Wondering if its a battery issue or something is wrong with the box. Emailed liccitti and he didnt have an answer for me. Hoping you have some advice.
Solar charge Controller input and output is límited to 20A (or real 16A). If you have 365w connected to mppt Controller; load current (output) would be 365W/14V =26A. Using a 40A mppt, you Will load with 26A.
A 20A charge controller should output real 20A to the battery provided enough PV. This one did not make the cut, they have now fixed the charge controller issue. I have a new unit from them that has a real 20A MPPT. Here's a video of the new unit with the better charge controller ua-cam.com/video/aH0Fs-cCePc/v-deo.htmlsi=lqlaL4j8QZaeBpDQ&t=1591
@@BradCagleI am sorry,. I mean for a 365w panel, you will have 26A at the controller output. Therefore you would have to use a controller of at least 30A. Better 40A.
Great video Brad. I’m new to your channel and the way you explain things helps me as a newbie! I really want to get one of these boxes as a starter I really like the idea of the 170 A/h mini…..they are unavailable on Amazon Does anyone else make a 170a/h mini? I’m guessing a 200 A/h may be too large to fit? Thx
Hi, I’ve ordered one of these boxes. Have you tried the inverter at close to 2000watts draw with a higher amp cutout battery to prove the inverter is capable of sustained amp draw at just under 2000w ? I’m a bit worried that the inverter is 1000continuous/2000 peak .
hi i want to use this diy technique to power my rv using the 50amp plug that I usually plug into the camp site power pole.. is this possible? similar to the new power banks that can do that example: oupes mega 2 , 3 and 5 .. thanks
Not 50 amp because those are 240v. You could probably get a 30a socket in the box, i think I heard of someone doing this. You still would be limited to 2000w
How can I run a Blue Seas DC distribution box in a small trailer while charging box using Anderson port? I wouldn’t want to use the 12v cigarette as that is limited to 10A and ideally I’d like 25A minimum to the DC distribution box?
Ok maybe I missed it but how much does it cost and can two be paired together for north american 120/240 split phase power this unit could be a great starter unit as more solar and battery capacity can be added as for the lack of 120 plugs that can be upgraded as well
I have the Licitti 1000w box with a lithium iron phosphate charger, since lead acid chargers are all over the place. Same price. Do you have any suggestions for an inexpensive,yet quality, battery? Nevermind...watched whole video.
Your battery was to full to receive more than 212w . The charge controller was working properly. And I can see your point about the bms needing to be bigger than 150 and can agree to that . But at upwards of 300ah roughly being maxed out this isn't going do be every day use. But will still be a great tool for fridge & some lights and may beable to get by a few days with good solar & under 500w load . So not much point to need over 100a bms for normal rational backup use. Realistically if u were pulling 1800w 150a out of a 300ah battery. Max run time would only be 2 hours .
No, the battery was not too full, it was low about 20Ah, as its a 170ah battery. It would have taken everything you could throw at it (within reason) 😜 Thanks
Yes, mostly Aluminum, and plastic. It has a few steel bits on the internals. What kind of screws are you thinking? SS Screws might react really negatively to aluminum in that environment.
Are those battery cables a bit small for a 2000W inverter? Oh you mentioned it! I really can’t find anything else to possibly criticise about this box. Definitely one of the nicest products on the market, that inverter board really says a lot about their QC, that is one CLEAN PCB not some flux covered, half hand soldered mess that you see from a lot of Chinese products. The fact that they tailored the battery tray to fit whatever standard size that is with the battery box and the dimensions of the 280/302/304 cells is great, now they just need an accessory that goes on top of the tray for the straps to run under. I don’t own any 302/304 cells but aren’t they taller than the 280’s? I wonder how close that would bring the terminals to the floor of the inverter. I wouldn’t be surprised (if this box gains some traction) that someone uploads a file on Thingiverse in a few months for a 3D printed top shell that fits over the top of 280/302/304 cells to insulate the terminals and maybe create a nice snug fit. Or licitti could design one and sell it as an accessory, I’m sure they could design and print it cheaply and then mark it up a good chunk since people will pay for safety. Better yet an entire shell kit for the cells would be something they could probably sell for $50 or so. I know several companies do this already. A drop in 280Ah or 302/304Ah kit would be really popular for those that want to get the most out of the inverter. This box just kicks ass. Also +1 to them for including USB PD and QC. No need for dinosaur ports, it’s 2023 if you put a USB A port on a box and it can’t output 5, 9, and 12 volts @ 24W you made a hole in the box for something that’s obsolete. Definition of Boomer Thinking.
How can you fit a larger battery? According to the Licitti website under specifications the internal length is only 13 inches long x 6.89 wide x 9.45 high? If those dimensions are correct most 100ah except a few mini's would not fit. If they are incorrect that doesn't give much confidence if they cannot even measure correctly. Measurements are pretty important for diy. Yes I could build a cell array and wire in a third party BMS, but if I go to that trouble I think I would just build a better system. Too bad, because if this could fit a 12v 230 ah- 300ah it would be a no brainer.
Hi I asked about batteries today 280ah or 200ah will fit. They provide them. I’ve got pics but don’t seem to be able to upload them. It’s just 4 X 200 or 280ah cells taped together with balancer and 200 amp BMS taped to one end. Crude but effective. Price $780 usd shipped to me.
@@BradCagle Would love to see you do a DIY with 4x300ah cells with a BMS. Still considering this unit, its just their website doesn't seem to have much info.
Great video but, unfortunately this company uses a low cost (cheap), lightweight high frequency, transformerless inverter that is pretty much worthless for powering high inductance loads like full sized refrigerators, large power tools or microwave ovens. Without an iron core, copper wound transformer to absorb the back EMF and high surge demands of these high inductance loads, typically after about a year's worth of use this DIY solar generator will become a non-repairable brick. You might be able to start and run some high surge loads when this inverter is new but every time you fire up or shut down that inductive load, you're shortening the life of the MOSFETs in this solar generator. They also run much hotter than low frequency, transformer based inverters which makes the low cost, off spec, Chinese made components such as capacitors, diodes, resistors and ICs that are used in these cheap solar generators, far more prone to early failure. Another major consideration with these high frequency, transformer free solar generators is safety. All it takes is for one of their MOSFETs or IGBTs to short to ground or the control circuitry to fail, and these units will send dangerous, high voltage, high amperage DC current straight to your connected AC loads which will not only damage most AC appliances but can also set those AC appliances on fire. A far better alternative is to invest a little more money and purchase a hybrid, low frequency, transformer based inverter charger. Your system will last far, far longer and can easily power high surge loads without being damaged.
I ordered 2 of these units and it has been over 20 days and have not received confirmation of shipping. Licitti is not responding to my emails. Good luck and buyer beware
@@BradCagle it's a dang nice box. I'd rather tell people to buy this than a bluetti. Not that blue is bad it just cost to much for folks that only want their fridge and internet to stay up. Man, if they had a better charge controller it would be a no brainier. It's still nice as is. Having 2 charge controllers, one built-in And one extra is a good idea anyways.
Around noon in the middle of summer in Texas the sun is directly overhead, so the panel pointing straight up here was directly at the sun. They sent me a new model with a different 20a charge controller that actually get the full 20a. Thanks
Home Depot has a large selection of "Solar Generators" www.homedepot.com/b/Outdoors-Outdoor-Power-Equipment-Generators-Portable-Power-Stations-Solar-Generators/N-5yc1vZ2fkoqhp
@@BradCagle as far i know solar create electricity that is going to a inverter he is doing noting but you can buy a generator to charge your battery tha t is a generator but he is not running on the sun what is solar like solar eclipse
@@BradCagle why iam fuckt off with this stupidety from home depo i import a solar inverter tax free but because there is a german name on the invoice weckchelrighter that cost me 1500 euro i have topay the full duty and tax they say a solar inverter is duty free but that can be a electronic device. so thanks for the warning ordering by home depo can cost you more than the inverter it self.
Thank you, I love seeing alternates to the more expensive lithium battery set ups
More to come! Thanks
A very nice product. I like the battery flexibility and increased power. Both this and the original need an internal AC charger. Also, two AC outlets on the front.
Any chance two of the newer "mini" lifepo4 100ah will fit side by side? Is so only other issue is those look to be about a 1/2 inch taller unless you can pay them down flat statcked. That would allow pulling 2000w from the inverter plus having a 2560wh capacity would be awesome.
Very nice DIY Solar Generator, definitely a big improvement from the original plastic to this Gen2.
I like the simple design with the plastic end panels.
After watching the video, these improvements came to mind:
1. higher battery compartment
2. the bottom battery holder should have angles all along the length and all along the width, and should be adjustable to be used on as many possible batteries as possible.
3. more AC outputs for this more powerful inverter would be needed
The tray could have the sort of thing you get in photocopier paper trays, which slide back and forwards then lock in place.
10:00 With the high number of fires and meltdowns discussed on the diysolarforum, I STRONGLY ENCOURAGE heavy spacing, insulation and securing of the cells. These cells are very thin walled, and the metal is conductive to the electrodes, so any abrasion will cause cell heating, and discharge.
Yup, I address that @10:56 Thanks
@@BradCagle yes you mention it is a good idea.
It is very very important. Many builds have caught fire and failed dramatically from a lack of protection.
@@SuperVstech Yes, very true. I've seen a lot. I always try to mention the safety measures, and only DIY battery if you're comfortable. Thanks
I used to build PC's for customers, using component parts. I always insisted on using "open architecture" parts, so that they could be serviced and upgraded without having to buy proprietary stuff. Not only was it more cost-effective, building this way was a lot easier and more enjoyable, because you weren't fighting with each component. I mention that because I LOVE this New Gen box from Licitti! Not only can you fit that larger, 170AH battery in there, the raw cells option is super cool! Willing to bet that controller is rated at 200w or maybe a little more, so it's limiting how many amps are flowing into the battery, to keep the wattage down. I'd try to find a model number on the controller and look up the specs.
One of my first real jobs was a PC builder/tech in the 90's. We hated, and talked badly about proprietary parts, stuff from IBM PS/2 microchannel bus, and all the packard bell, etc.. junk. Thanks!
@@BradCagleomg, microchannel… I had purged that mess from my mind… vlb and the buss after that one, then finally PCIe so much simpler and affordable. Then apple came out with FireWire and lightning proprietary licensing ports trying to do it all over again…
To see the solar controllers max output you could plug in the battery charger into the solar input, it'll only take what it can use assuming its within the mppt range.
Good, idea. I might try that. They are also supposed to be sending me a different controller. Thanks
Good video, I like the setting of the can on the panel to see if it is pointed right at the sun.
Thanks, I got that idea from Andy (Off Grid Garage)
Another great tear down. @6:02 that black wire that connected to the shunt and then goes down to the bottom of the box should have the same wrap for protection on it as well, I see that they put one on the red wire but not on the black wire. I am not sure how sharp the metal plate is, it may cut into the wire insulation.
I also see the small white wire on the shunt that goes to the positive bus bar, it should have small inline fuse in case the electronics on the shunt shorted out.
Oh, just to let you know, I do not get the notification from UA-cam when you release the new video.
Yeah, I guess it should have had a little length of the wrap on it. Yeah true most do have a fuse where the shunt connects to positive. Also would be nice to have a fuse at the battery. I think I would upgrade some things. Like I mention the battery cables really need to be better if you plan on pushing this thing. No notification, hmm do you have the notification bell thing active?
@@BradCagle Yes, I do have the 'Bell' on, so far I missed a couple of your videos, .I.E SFK budget kits, the chainsaw.
Great review you did there.
I still have some questions:
1- What is that shunt rated for?
2- Would be nice to see panel charging and wall socket charging at the same time.
3- Is there a way to charge with an external charge controller and use that small 15/20 amp as a backup vharge controller?
4- Is the DC exit regulated or just a direct reflexion of battery voltage?
Seen other videos, but not as thoroughly reviewed as yours!
Great job and thanks. New subscriber here because of this video.
Thank you!
The shunt, according to their site is 500a. It can charge from solar, and a external (wall socket AC) charger (via the black anderson) at the same time. Yes you can charge from an external controller via the black anderson connector. No the DC out through the black anderson is not regulated. Basically yes it is a direct reflection of the battery at that port. Awesome, thanks for the sub! Welcome aboard :)
@@BradCagle I also am a dedicated Off Grid Garage subscriber. My favourite you channel, but your review actually impressed me! For both product and in depth review of the guts of the beast. Nice product for sure!
Just wondering if there is a 230V European version (Spain and Portugal in this case). Do you happen to know that? And the charge controller part number would also be nice, to upgrade it with a similar unit in parallel or a beefier one. The solar charger controller is the only thing that makes this unit lack regarding comparable units (Ecoflow/Bluetti etc...)
@@ricardomarcelino8388 I'll ask them if they have a 220v version. And i did see the charge controller on AliExpress. I'll try to find it again
@@ricardomarcelino8388 this is the charge controller www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Solar-Charge-Controller-for-Solar-LED_1600478059402.html?spm=a2700.pccps_detail.0.0.175313a0OLYju8
@@BradCagle Do I read that correct at 100/130W rated output?
Great video. This thing looks sweet! Do you think multiple mini 12v batteries would fit on that battery tray? Thanks
Great informative video Brad.
Thanks!
Kinda neat. Solar input is a bummer. If you have an extra battery laying around its a good deal. If not the sun fun is the way to go plus you would need to upgrade the solar input because 200 watts kinda useless. One ac outlet on a 2000 w inverter? Maybe I am missing something?
Yeah, it really should hit around 280w on a 20amp controller. I'm going to address this with them. Thanks
Great looking box! Very innovative great video, ~160W solar not bad
Thanks. It really should get up to 280 with a 20amp controller
@@BradCagle Yeah, I agree 👍
Another good, thorough examination😊
Thanks!
What are the dementions / size in inches of the large black battery you used in this machine? Will a large deep cycle battery work just fine?
New subscriber, I learned a lot! Thank you!
You're welcome! Thanks for coming aboard :)
I ordered on and it arrived a couple weeks ago. I put a new lifepo4 100ah battery in it but it keeos dropping below 10volts and the inverter shuts off. I hooked up a 200ah battery thru the ac/dc input and the amps are fine. Wondering if its a battery issue or something is wrong with the box. Emailed liccitti and he didnt have an answer for me. Hoping you have some advice.
Is it possible to push 1000+ watts AC into this so it can charge a 1300AH battery in about 90 minutes like the Ecoflow Delta 1300 can do?
Only one ac plug is pretty scarce for the cost you get inverter, and box with a single AC outlet.
Solar charge Controller input and output is límited to 20A (or real 16A). If you have 365w connected to mppt Controller; load current (output) would be 365W/14V =26A. Using a 40A mppt, you Will load with 26A.
A 20A charge controller should output real 20A to the battery provided enough PV. This one did not make the cut, they have now fixed the charge controller issue. I have a new unit from them that has a real 20A MPPT. Here's a video of the new unit with the better charge controller ua-cam.com/video/aH0Fs-cCePc/v-deo.htmlsi=lqlaL4j8QZaeBpDQ&t=1591
@@BradCagleI am sorry,. I mean for a 365w panel, you will have 26A at the controller output. Therefore you would have to use a controller of at least 30A. Better 40A.
Great video Brad. I’m new to your channel and the way you explain things helps me as a newbie!
I really want to get one of these boxes as a starter
I really like the idea of the 170 A/h mini…..they are unavailable on Amazon
Does anyone else make a 170a/h mini?
I’m guessing a 200 A/h may be too large to fit?
Thx
Hi, I’ve ordered one of these boxes. Have you tried the inverter at close to 2000watts draw with a higher amp cutout battery to prove the inverter is capable of sustained amp draw at just under 2000w ?
I’m a bit worried that the inverter is 1000continuous/2000 peak .
I have since asked licitti and they say 4000 w peak so all good.
hi i want to use this diy technique to power my rv using the 50amp plug that I usually plug into the camp site power pole.. is this possible? similar to the new power banks that can do that example: oupes mega 2 , 3 and 5 .. thanks
Not 50 amp because those are 240v. You could probably get a 30a socket in the box, i think I heard of someone doing this. You still would be limited to 2000w
would sun fun kits SFK-275HP 12V 275AH be a good fit for this?
I wonder is there room for a jk bms. This is a cool box. I was thinking of building something similar but no inverter and internal batteey
For sure, there's room!
How long will it provide for a frig ?
How can I run a Blue Seas DC distribution box in a small trailer while charging box using Anderson port? I wouldn’t want to use the 12v cigarette as that is limited to 10A and ideally I’d like 25A minimum to the DC distribution box?
Ok maybe I missed it but how much does it cost and can two be paired together for north american 120/240 split phase power this unit could be a great starter unit as more solar and battery capacity can be added as for the lack of 120 plugs that can be upgraded as well
You'll have to check the link for cost. No, you cannot pair them for 240v. Thanks!
I have the Licitti 1000w box with a lithium iron phosphate charger, since lead acid chargers are all over the place. Same price. Do you have any suggestions for an inexpensive,yet quality, battery?
Nevermind...watched whole video.
Your battery was to full to receive more than 212w . The charge controller was working properly. And I can see your point about the bms needing to be bigger than 150 and can agree to that . But at upwards of 300ah roughly being maxed out this isn't going do be every day use. But will still be a great tool for fridge & some lights and may beable to get by a few days with good solar & under 500w load . So not much point to need over 100a bms for normal rational backup use. Realistically if u were pulling 1800w 150a out of a 300ah battery. Max run time would only be 2 hours .
No, the battery was not too full, it was low about 20Ah, as its a 170ah battery. It would have taken everything you could throw at it (within reason) 😜 Thanks
Is the unit all aluminum and plastic? Im on a boats I would change screws out . Whats your feelings on that application?
Thank you
Yes, mostly Aluminum, and plastic. It has a few steel bits on the internals. What kind of screws are you thinking? SS Screws might react really negatively to aluminum in that environment.
@@BradCagle there is a grease you can put on dissimilar metals
How long a car battery last??
Hey Brad, do you sell any of those batteries you get sent to review? For a price a poor guy can afford?
Thanks for the video Brad. Curious if it would do pass-thru charging?
Yes you can charge, and draw power at the same time. Thanks!
I wonder if the amps amps amps are in the settings.
Are those battery cables a bit small for a 2000W inverter? Oh you mentioned it!
I really can’t find anything else to possibly criticise about this box. Definitely one of the nicest products on the market, that inverter board really says a lot about their QC, that is one CLEAN PCB not some flux covered, half hand soldered mess that you see from a lot of Chinese products. The fact that they tailored the battery tray to fit whatever standard size that is with the battery box and the dimensions of the 280/302/304 cells is great, now they just need an accessory that goes on top of the tray for the straps to run under.
I don’t own any 302/304 cells but aren’t they taller than the 280’s? I wonder how close that would bring the terminals to the floor of the inverter. I wouldn’t be surprised (if this box gains some traction) that someone uploads a file on Thingiverse in a few months for a 3D printed top shell that fits over the top of 280/302/304 cells to insulate the terminals and maybe create a nice snug fit. Or licitti could design one and sell it as an accessory, I’m sure they could design and print it cheaply and then mark it up a good chunk since people will pay for safety. Better yet an entire shell kit for the cells would be something they could probably sell for $50 or so. I know several companies do this already. A drop in 280Ah or 302/304Ah kit would be really popular for those that want to get the most out of the inverter.
This box just kicks ass. Also +1 to them for including USB PD and QC. No need for dinosaur ports, it’s 2023 if you put a USB A port on a box and it can’t output 5, 9, and 12 volts @ 24W you made a hole in the box for something that’s obsolete. Definition of Boomer Thinking.
Yeah, I would upgrade them if you're doing over 1500w. IMO
Does it handle 24v batteries? I wouldn't like more than 100Amps on my batteries regularly
No unfortunately the 12v seems to be imposed by the inverter. Now if they had a 24v inverter option that would be sweet.
Im considering this 2000W box, will the Time US B Pro which is 13"by 6.8"by 9.3 inches fit in this box????
Yes, it will fit. But keep in mind that battery will do 100a continuous, you won't be able to get the full 2000w out of this box.
Are you aware of any company that sells a smaller unit? Say that is centered around a 50ah battery and a 500 watt inverter? Great video.
This company has a Gen1 that uses a 100ah battery, and a 1000w inverter. I don't know of anything smaller.
Not many specs on Licitti's site. What voltage range can this guy handle???
it's 12v only
How can you fit a larger battery? According to the Licitti website under specifications the internal length is only 13 inches long x 6.89 wide x 9.45 high? If those dimensions are correct most 100ah except a few mini's would not fit. If they are incorrect that doesn't give much confidence if they cannot even measure correctly. Measurements are pretty important for diy. Yes I could build a cell array and wire in a third party BMS, but if I go to that trouble I think I would just build a better system. Too bad, because if this could fit a 12v 230 ah- 300ah it would be a no brainer.
That's the dimensions of standard 100ah batteries. They fit fine. Thanks
Hi I asked about batteries today 280ah or 200ah will fit. They provide them. I’ve got pics but don’t seem to be able to upload them. It’s just 4 X 200 or 280ah cells taped together with balancer and 200 amp BMS taped to one end. Crude but effective. Price $780 usd shipped to me.
@@TerryKingdon Yeah, they said they were going to send me one of those packs to review. That price is not bad.
@@BradCagle Would love to see you do a DIY with 4x300ah cells with a BMS. Still considering this unit, its just their website doesn't seem to have much info.
To me, this is prebuilt. I was wanting diy.
Price?
Great video but, unfortunately this company uses a low cost (cheap), lightweight high frequency, transformerless inverter that is pretty much worthless for powering high inductance loads like full sized refrigerators, large power tools or microwave ovens. Without an iron core, copper wound transformer to absorb the back EMF and high surge demands of these high inductance loads, typically after about a year's worth of use this DIY solar generator will become a non-repairable brick.
You might be able to start and run some high surge loads when this inverter is new but every time you fire up or shut down that inductive load, you're shortening the life of the MOSFETs in this solar generator. They also run much hotter than low frequency, transformer based inverters which makes the low cost, off spec, Chinese made components such as capacitors, diodes, resistors and ICs that are used in these cheap solar generators, far more prone to early failure.
Another major consideration with these high frequency, transformer free solar generators is safety. All it takes is for one of their MOSFETs or IGBTs to short to ground or the control circuitry to fail, and these units will send dangerous, high voltage, high amperage DC current straight to your connected AC loads which will not only damage most AC appliances but can also set those AC appliances on fire.
A far better alternative is to invest a little more money and purchase a hybrid, low frequency, transformer based inverter charger. Your system will last far, far longer and can easily power high surge loads without being damaged.
LIKE 👍👍👍👍👍💥💯💥💯💥😻😻😻😻
Thanks! 😄😃
It would be a great solar power box. The concept is good, but the components are inferior to their hype. Too bad. And the price is a little steep.
I ordered 2 of these units and it has been over 20 days and have not received confirmation of shipping. Licitti is not responding to my emails. Good luck and buyer beware
I'll shoot them an email about this. They might be getting hammered with orders. Hang tight.
Yes , keep emailing them , had the same problem and then they got right on it
Mine was shipped from Georgia. I got it in two days!
I would add a 40 amp charge controller to it.
Agree. I did a 40aamp external with the 1000w first gen box. I would like to build a bigger one into this box.
@@BradCagle it's a dang nice box. I'd rather tell people to buy this than a bluetti. Not that blue is bad it just cost to much for folks that only want their fridge and internet to stay up. Man, if they had a better charge controller it would be a no brainier. It's still nice as is. Having 2 charge controllers, one built-in And one extra is a good idea anyways.
@@kevinroberts781 Yup, these are much cheaper options. I do wish the solar charging was better too.
The Charge Controller is NOT the issue. AIM- THE-PANEL-DIRECTLY-AT-THE-SUN!!!!! GOOD GRIEF!
Around noon in the middle of summer in Texas the sun is directly overhead, so the panel pointing straight up here was directly at the sun. They sent me a new model with a different 20a charge controller that actually get the full 20a. Thanks
why do you poke every hole you find?
LOL, lot of possible (dirty) responses to this question. Can you please elaborate what you mean by "poke every hole"? Thanks
watt is going in and goming out nothing extra
the battery is no longer being offered at Amazon -- discontinued .... just saying ...
Bummer. Thanks!
Plug the charger in to test the Inverter LOL.
🤣Be funny just to let it run like that to see how long it would run.
at that price. 439.
id rather stick with an oupes mega 1 power station..
they need to revamp their prices.
gen 1 is 168$ gen 2 468$ dont think so
Oh, idk, with the energy tracking shunt, the bigger inverter, the bigger charge controller, and the nice package, it’s a pretty fair deal.
To expensive
Too expensive! You going to by Bluetti or EcoFlow then?
2000 /12.8=156 amps….
2000/12=166 amps
No matter what you do you have to have a BMS that can handle that at a minimum.
Yup! You also need to factor in the inverter losses. so it will be more like 2200-2400w/12 = 200amps
Just build your own if you are constantly unimpressed….not that difficult!
Wait wait $450.00 plus for a empty box, i still have to get a battery?? What??? I can buy one unit all together cheaper. Come on man!!!
"Diy"...huh
That's not quite a DIY.
overpriced for what it is. only option for one battery wouldn't do much good for capacity when running the inverter.
it is not a generator just a inverter how woke can you be.
Home Depot has a large selection of "Solar Generators" www.homedepot.com/b/Outdoors-Outdoor-Power-Equipment-Generators-Portable-Power-Stations-Solar-Generators/N-5yc1vZ2fkoqhp
@@BradCagle as far i know solar create electricity that is going to a inverter
he is doing noting but you can buy a generator to charge your battery tha t is a generator but he is not running on the sun
what is solar like solar eclipse
@@BradCagle why iam fuckt off with this stupidety from home depo i import a solar inverter tax free but because there is a german name on the invoice weckchelrighter that cost me 1500 euro
i have topay the full duty and tax they say
a solar inverter is duty free but that can be
a electronic device. so thanks for the warning ordering by home depo can cost you more than the inverter it self.
hell yeah