Boring engine block and assembling pistons for our Cadillac 365 V-8 | Redline Update #74
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- Опубліковано 28 лют 2021
- Davin goes over how to measure rod bearings in order to get the crank cut for proper oil clearance. The it's back over to Thirlby Machine Shop to check on the progress of the engine block which is being decked, bored, and honed so Davin can bring it back to our shop for paint prep.
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I was expecting boring... but got exciting. :) Great series, can't wait to hear it purr on the dyno.
I love the quality in these videos! Big thumbs up! :D
@Rene Stanneveld new here eh?
I've said it before. But Davin has the unique ability to have a vast amount t of knowledge and have the ability to explain it so well that anyone can understand it, regardless of how complicated the subject. Well done
LOL just finished a midterm to find you guys just released this. . . that's what I call perfect timing 🤙
As a trade-qualified engine reconditioner, I like how you work, good job. One of the things I think that's worth mentioning when you bolt this together would be about the shape of the bearings before they are torqued on the mains and the rods. I've lost count of the people who have had their crank ground, took everything home, only to come back angrily the next day because their crank was either tight or wouldn't spin because they hadn't torqued the bearings down. It's usually quite embarrassing for them after you've sat back and copped abuse from them only to install the crank in front of their eyes and it spins beautifully. Great videos, keep em coming!
Well it’s good to see someone at Thirlby understands the concept of thermal expansion. I was waiting to see if they were going to just pound the wrist pins through the rods & pistons with a 5 lb sledge. 😆
I'm watching you from Iraq🇮🇶💋🥰
Really great basic stuff. I wish this would have been available 50 years ago when I was trying to understand what crank clearance even meant. I can only imagine the bump in knowledge this generation is getting. Of course they'll be applying their smarts to electric cars, wind turbines and rockets to other planets.
yeah as a zoomer i do sometimes wish i was born in the late 90s. Life was way simpler back then especially when it comes to cars. now engine bays resemble spaghetti more then what old engine bays used to look like. Also seen a diagram which showed how much wireing there is on a modern and it came to around 3 - 4km or 2.2 - 3.2miles of cables. as compared to 300m or 620feet 40 years ago.
Hoping to go see "Mikey" this summer myself finally. I have an LQ9 that's gonna get some go fast goodies and installed this year, I I can get enough pennies together. Thanks.
A little late to the party, but thank you for this. I've been preparing to replace the rod bearings in a 3.5 5 cyl engine.
Just a simple, badass technical video 😯
Sir, you are truly a wise person!!
Back in the 80's, was working at a machine shop, guy I was working with, took the shop truck to pick up an engine (Big block Chevy, complete). He set the engine in the back of the shop truck bed, at the tail gate, didn't tie it down. Was involved in an accident, rear-ended a stopped car. That engine came through the cab of the truck and imbedded it's self in the dashboard ON THE PASSENGER SIDE (lucky AF). Moral of the story, always put the engine at the front of the bed, against the cab and tie it down!
Thanks for the update.
I love this kind of thing. So interesting!
When I assemble an engine, I use anti-aeize on the rod stud or bolt. I put it on prior to assembly of the caps. I have had past issues as the ros nut/bolt has backed off from the application of lube between the nut and rod cap. I tend to try to keep the clamping surfaces clean and lubrication free. Lube on the threads is fine, but I would make a point to keep the nut clamping surface dry as much as possible.
May want to check with ARP.
Love the content. Keep up the great work.
Nice work!
great progress
Damn the buick took so long, shits cool finding it
so glad to see you not using a torque plate on both the bore and the honing I tried it with and with out torque plate and found that the distortion from head torque did not make the out of round spec's every body thinks it does. I'll never use one again
Thank You La Pine Oregon
Yeah, this is really machine shop stuff. Every shop I ever used, checks for themselves anyways. But it does not hurt.
here's an old machinist trick for your telescoping gauge or indicator dial face, if you set your zero at .010 plus or minus the zero on the dial,dont matter witch one, a .002 move will read .012 or .008. takes away any confusion , or mistakes .
Write down the readout on the dial not the diameter. Most important is that the readout is correctly written down, wrong calculations on paper can easily be spotted by recalculating everything or QC.
Boring bar looks exactly like the one Dad had in his tractor shop back in the 70s.
I don’t know who find this boring, in fact I find this pretty entertaining
Yea, who would dislike this video!
Great job man greetings from mexico i m your fan
Bringing it back to that fresh early Caddie engine it once was away back then. 👍😎🇨🇦
when I read some comments in these video or other some mention his country .. I'm from Jordan Middle East .. any way great job you done .
Perfeito sou retificador também acho muito bacana esse trampo
Thank you
Que perfeccionismo!!!👏👏👏🤜🤜🤜
really looking forward to seeing this Caddy motor come to life. Hope you make it looking totally STOCK?
Have you guys done any videos on how you set up your shop? The philosophy of each work area? Bench and box locations relative to each other? Large tool locations, air and power locations and type? Hose reel locations? The general layout of your shop for specific tasks. Thanks.
No doubt.
Me and my father have a large area, and need to set it up so it's efficient and useful, so I know we gotta research some layouts.
One day!
Imma build an engine!
Between these guys and Vice Grip Garage, who needs the motortrend channel?
Wish you showed more about setting up the block for machining. The fixturing. Indicating it in, etc. Please show in the future. Thank you. Edit: also how talk about the decking. How much can it be out to begin with. How do you indicate it in if its really out of whack and not flat or straight. How much can you take off. How does it affect compression? How heavy of a cut can you take? How much do you take on cleanup if multiple passes?
Check out Jim’s Automotive Machine Shop here on UA-cam they’ll teach you a lot of this stuff :)
@@averagecarguy420 hey thanks. I've been in the trade almost 20 years but never automotive machining. I've always had questions. Lol. Thanks again. I'll have a look.
@@joshuagibson2520 I’ve been working on cars and engines since I was about 14, I’m 17 now and heavily studying all things automotive related. My dream is to one day never have to buy parts to fix my car again and just make them all myself. Good luck finding answers to your questions!
@@averagecarguy420 that makes me so happy to hear. It's a bolt on world these days and it's critical people your generation keep that skill set and knowledge alive etc. Not many people making things themselves these days. I'm 42 but have worked with a lot of guys in their 60s and 70s. They know how to do a lot of stuff with and without fancy tools etc. Sponge all the knowledge you can from old timers.
@@joshuagibson2520 👍
Wow this caddy is going fast. This is a nascar compared to the straight 8
Ain't that the truth! Hoping that trend continues! 😆
It would be cool to see a powder coated block.
Expansion rate due to temperature increase for steel is about .001in per inch per 100 degrees F.
wondering why you don't mic the bearings with a ball mic? You just have to mic the rod, mic the crank, subtract the difference between the crank and rod, and add the bearing thickness, subtract that number and the differencee is the oil clearance. Just the way i was taught in the machine shop, but i never see anyone using a "Ball Mic" in any videos on youtube. Ive built over 1000 engines in my day and NEVER had a bearing clearance problem, but i did run into miss marked bearings /cranks/rods in some of those engines . Great channel, Thanks
you mention debris on rod surface . rare but a couple times i have seen a thread or lint or hair behind bearing with near matching wear pattern . in copper mid layer
why werent yall honing the bore with a torque plate? isnt that a relatively easy way to ensure the final bore size is accurate to what it will be with heads on it?
Отличное информативное видео.
Muito Bom Vídeo gostei muito
Such a expertise conrents what i want to
Tip top
I wish you could do....one ford work horse..200 inline six!!
The die grinding at the end, is he just cleaning up the blocks cast surfaces or is there some other purpose?
Probably deburring sharp edges and cleaning up oil passages so oil can flow back easier.
Grinding off any sharp edged from the casting process. Gives a better surface for the paint to adhere to.
Were all the big end measurements all the same?
knowledgeable, meticulous.
No wrist pin retainer clip/lock ring? Just heat fitted?
That's the gm way.
Doesn’t sound boring at all
Off topic but will there be a Redline Rebuild Explained for the straight 8 Buick?
What are the relative merits of an interference fit small end (as shown) to using circlips to retain the pin? Or is it arbitrary?
Well I can say circlips are about the biggest pain in the ass.
ARP indicates that lube should NOT be used underneath the washer or on the surface underneath the washer.
It is not in the instructions that come with the bolts, but ARP will suggest that the bottom of the washer can be sanded rough, to Increase grip of the washer on the block or rod, to ensure proper torque values.
Those rods balanced?
No honing plate, to torque down on the block, so the internal loading during boring is the same as during running?
Some engines need a honing plate, some don’t. All depends on the type of engine and what type of metal it’s made of.
They probably dont even have one for this thing. While torque plate honing is best, for stock or very mild applications it isnt critically necessary.
Would have been a nice time to check the balance of the piston/rod assy.
so that will be .001 all around? is it tighter tolerance for different applications?
Kinda depends on what you're doing with it.
Tighter tolerances for performance.
Looser daily use.
Still, it's important to stay within specifications for reliability.
What was the final hone surface, what grit stone was used?
Parabéns
Why start at 30 over bore? Back in the day you could go 10, 20 or 30 over and 40, 50 and 60 over was considered new block time.
how is the block of cylinders set on the machine?
Will you release timelapse after finish?
Absolutely!
Yeah I love the stop-motion portion of the video where the parts all march around and assemble themselves.
@@Hagerty 👏👏👏👍👀🇧🇷🇧🇷🇧🇷🇧🇷🇧🇷🇧🇷🇧🇷🇧🇷🇧🇷🇧🇷
Dont you normally grind the crank then plastic gauge the bearings too order new bearings
no torque plate for the honing on a caddy?
Maybe they didn't have one
👍🏾
At 9:49 is that a dirt late model ?
What’s the bore allowance for 30 over pistons?
Top
Shouldn't the journal be .004" under the shell diameter? .002" clearance all around that way.
Unless he just meant 2 thou difference in diameter so it's 1 thou clear all round.
@@davidmarshall2399 The clearance is total on the diameter, not radial. .002 clearance is .001 per side.
For the oil clearance, you wanted 0.002" right. So shouldn't you subtract 0.004" total so both 'ends' of the hole have 0.002" of oil clearance? Am I thinking wrong?
You're partway correct, but you have to be able to visualize what actually happens as the two parts interact. The journal on the crankshaft never stays in the actual center of the rod bore as the engine is turning. It is always slightly off center as it induces rotational motion and the rod converts it to linear motion. That shift happens throughout tbe revolution of the crank journal, as the rod gets pushed upwards for compression strokes, and tben transfers around as the piston is pulled down for intake strokes. That 2 thousandths clearance is constantly and fluidly compensated by the hydrodynamic wedge of motor oil to keep concentricity of the clearance.
Hope my explanation helps, and I didn't sound too much like Sheldon Cooper from Big Bang Theory.
@@markk3652 ah so the 0.002" is just the clearance total in any direction at any time.
@@callmezucc9318 correct, the oil dynamically makes up for the clearance.
2/1000ths oil gap total or one all sides?
Total
Why didn't he use telescoping gages?
2:08 "....just DEEZ NUTS"
Got eem
2:08
just see the difference))) (if you want to see, you can type "Дмитрий и Владимир Богдановы")
Para cuando el doblaje al español? ✌🏻
Wait...first he's in the Hagerty garage and a second later he's at the machine shop? WHAT IS THIS SORCERY? 😂
Stay up, get some pizzas and let's go, let' go, etc.
Hahaha it keeps being funny, those imperial numbers 🤣
Делайте русские субтитры ))
Тю, всё ж понятно и так)
@@user-jj9js5we7m непонятно почему шатуны с вкладышами меряют?
@@danv5075 , полагаю, чтобы знать какие параметры отверстия получаются и в случае необходимости подобрать вкладыши. Иногда правят отверстие в сборе, если не устраивает овальность или диаметр
@@poznarss мы обычно просто шатун замеряем. И из этого уже вкладыши подбираем.
@@poznarss он замерял диаметр с вкладышами чтобы дать размеры шейки коленвала токарю. От замеренего диаметра от отнял 0.002 дюйма на маслянную пленку. Коленвал будет проточен под размер 2,238 дюйма. Внутренний размер вкладышей 2,240 дюйма
The AERA Bible which any competent machine shop uses for specs list that engine rod crank journal size at 2.2488-2.2493. So minus .010 your are having the crank ground .0008(8 tenths of a thousand) under minimum spec. That seems really strange, either your measurement/ math is off or those inserts aren't specific to that application or the rod bores weren't honed to the correct size. .002 clearance is also on the large end of the spectrum for a stock build.
I didn't find this boring at all! You should be a little easier on yourselves.
who says engine blocks are boring?!
I see what you did there haha
You really honed in on that joke, Phillip!
@@Hagerty 😂
Kids, when you're handling bearing shells, always wear rubber gloves! Your skin oils will not mix with engine oil and will cause burnt spots on your bearings
I was taught that in high school...I don't know why Davin doesn't - maybe he oozes 30 weight instead of regular sweat? :)
Probably a very minor point that you could not prove. I would trust Davin on this.
@@ellieprice3396 go get a bearing shell, stick your oily finger on it and then pour oil on it and watch what the oil does
@@ellieprice3396 watch a few episodes of my vintage iron 7512, he goes through the whole thing. And actually has a video where he proves my point. Because he is actually an engine machinist and has probably built a thousand more engines than this other guy has he's probably the better one to believe
@@ellieprice3396 also the guy from my vintage iron is an instructor in the engine building department of universal Technical Institute
Well that was boring ;P
Почему нет переводчика на русском???
you guys really dont like securing your load do ya? a panic brake and BANG block goes flying
Hey, take a look at the UA-cam Channel Subi-Performance, he is a german guy who builds sick engines. his workshop is pretty modern and some vids are translated in english. Its worth to take a look, espacially to the older videos.
Greetings from Germany 😁
4th comment
На русском переводите
who disliked this?
People who actually believe ANYONE in DC is listening.
EV owners
Having been an automotive machinist for 50 years I usually find something to dislike in these vids but I still hit the like button. It would have to be real bad for me to hit dislike.
Hilarious people trying to work in inches
boring
Thank you