B on outside, but probably mostly because I’m a “everything blue” preference person. Love your videos and keep the larger pieces and experiments coming.
A inside and B outside…. And you’re inspiring me to go and try something. I like trying to create and master bubbles in my glass, so I’m going to use your method here to try to create some. Thanks!
Thanks again for another interesting twist on the normal. Looks great so far and will be interesting to see the final piece. I feel side B should be on the inside but it really should look good either way. Thanks,
Hi Jeff This was sooo timely fr me. I've been doing dropout vases lately, n doing two separate fusings to decorate both inside n out. Had just set up a one step firing piece to try, but w just cross crossing stringers on the bottom. I was v concerned about trapping lrge bubbles. Having seen ur video, I think I will try w a thick fiber underneath. Thank u so much fr this, as always. Btw, I would ho w red side in, the blues out.
Thank you. Just remember the thicker fibre will give a rougher surface. Will probably need some cold work. Honestly, would I do it as a rule, probably not. The idea is the save a firing and time, but if you have to coldwork and refire to polish it doesn't really. I suppose it depends on what you're doing.
Hi Kymberly. If you look in the Community tab it's there. But that's alright. I've got your preference. I think the inside will be most visible. That's a gentle drape.
Another interesting vid., for me B on the inside A on the outside. Would the fibre paper help stop bubbles? I've never tried white glue, was it pva? I was thinking it might have been a bit easier to put the glue on all the pieces at once and then turn them over.
Strange. Thought I answered you Paul but it seems to be gone. Anyway, I think the thicker fibre would help with bubbles. I only use pva under opal glass, not transparent. Or if I'm not worried about it because I'll be doing some coldworking. I did glue all the pieces for the underside first. Then allowed them to dry before turning. Is that what you mean?
I know the idea was to do it in one fuse but are you going to refuse side B up to flatten it out and get the 'texture' out? glad to see it worked with no bubbles or sliding!
Yes, probably. I think it depends on a lot of factors. I wouldn't do this again using reactive glasses. The texture is too much. Non-reactive and fused on Thinfire may save a firing.
@@RocketRoseArt OK. I did not know the reactive glass caused the different texture! I thought it was because it was on the bottom side and had gotten kind of embedded into the shelf paper with no air..
@@suzannenishida1849 Sorry, I confused you. It sounded good in my head. The texture was the result of using the thicker fibre paper. My comment about the reactive glasses is that I wouldn't do it with reactive glasses again, so I can use the thinner paper and not worry about the possible contamination from the reactions. Sorry.
Hi Toninho. I used just PVA glue. Because it was opal glass both sides residue won't show. If it was transparent glass I would use the Bullseye tac glue.
I think you mean cleaning up those little black spots. They were very shallow so I first used a diamond bit and ground out the worst of them. This left a slight hole, but them when I sandblasted it cleaned that up a bit. Then when I draped the piece, the variation in the surface was hardly noticeable due to the satin finish. The sandblasting also remove the devit you could see. Hope that helps.
@@vakhbod100 In that video I used fibre paper which is a lot thicker. If you've used kiln paper like Thinfire, which is thin like normal paper, it shouldn't be sticking. It may leave a textured surface but I don't remember it ever sticking so bad I can't remove it. When I used to use kiln wash it would stick and I usually sandblasted it off before doing a fire polish. Or try just wet and dry sandpaper, with water. Or a hand diamond pad. Once you get it off then do a fire polish to restore the surface. If you could send me a photo through my website maybe it will give me a better idea of what is happening.
Sorry for the delay Suzanne. I checked on my iPhone and it seems to work okay. The button I used is off screen to the right. There's a row of buttons that start with the Thumbs Up, then Share etc. Slide that across and the Thanks button is there. But I suspect you know this and it just isn't working. Thanks for the thought though. We appreciate it.
@@RocketRoseArt yes it just says there was a problem processing my purchase! 🙁 so how are you doing? back to working again? waiting to see how you finished your project!
This makes me braver to try more fusing!!
Hi Maggie. Please do try things. I know glass isn't cheap, but try smaller projects if that's an issue.
B on the outside. This is exiting ❤
Thanks Maria.
Side B outside. Thank you for sharing. Great video.
Thanks for the vote. Happy to help.
Thanks
Woe! Thank you so much Debra. I really appreciate your support.
B on outside, but probably mostly because I’m a “everything blue” preference person. Love your videos and keep the larger pieces and experiments coming.
Thank you Gwen. The ideas are there. Just not the time I used to have. But they are coming.
Side A on the inside and side B on the outside. Great testing idea. Can’t wait to see the big reveal!
Thanks Carol.
I love both sides! I will do more like a wave so you can use both sides. Thx for your always inspiring projects.
Always a pleasure.
Great experiment, would look great stacking some French Vanilla on Dense White too!
Stacking is so open to variations. It's a nice simple technique but usually looks great. When I pick the right colours 😁
Great idea! I'd go with B inside.
Thanks for voting Alexandra.
A inside and B outside…. And you’re inspiring me to go and try something. I like trying to create and master bubbles in my glass, so I’m going to use your method here to try to create some. Thanks!
Hi Jill. Let me know how it goes. I think with this one the thick fibre paper helped the air escape.
Thanks again for another interesting twist on the normal. Looks great so far and will be interesting to see the final piece. I feel side B should be on the inside but it really should look good either way. Thanks,
Thanks. It'll be interesting to see how the vote goes.
Hi Jeff
This was sooo timely fr me. I've been doing dropout vases lately, n doing two separate fusings to decorate both inside n out. Had just set up a one step firing piece to try, but w just cross crossing stringers on the bottom. I was v concerned about trapping lrge bubbles. Having seen ur video, I think I will try w a thick fiber underneath. Thank u so much fr this, as always. Btw, I would ho w red side in, the blues out.
Thank you. Just remember the thicker fibre will give a rougher surface. Will probably need some cold work. Honestly, would I do it as a rule, probably not. The idea is the save a firing and time, but if you have to coldwork and refire to polish it doesn't really. I suppose it depends on what you're doing.
Lindo !! ✨🙏✨
Thanks Monica
Hummm, I don't see the poll...I like side B for the side that will be most visible and side A for the least visible. Thank you for a great video!
Hi Kymberly. If you look in the Community tab it's there. But that's alright. I've got your preference. I think the inside will be most visible. That's a gentle drape.
@@RocketRoseArt Thank you, I found the community tab! But I didn't vote since youv'e already cast my vote from the comments.
Side A on the inside.
Thanks Cindy
Another interesting vid., for me B on the inside A on the outside. Would the fibre paper help stop bubbles? I've never tried white glue, was it pva? I was thinking it might have been a bit easier to put the glue on all the pieces at once and then turn them over.
Strange. Thought I answered you Paul but it seems to be gone. Anyway, I think the thicker fibre would help with bubbles. I only use pva under opal glass, not transparent. Or if I'm not worried about it because I'll be doing some coldworking. I did glue all the pieces for the underside first. Then allowed them to dry before turning. Is that what you mean?
I know the idea was to do it in one fuse but are you going to refuse side B up to flatten it out and get the 'texture' out? glad to see it worked with no bubbles or sliding!
Yes, probably. I think it depends on a lot of factors. I wouldn't do this again using reactive glasses. The texture is too much. Non-reactive and fused on Thinfire may save a firing.
@@RocketRoseArt OK. I did not know the reactive glass caused the different texture! I thought it was because it was on the bottom side and had gotten kind of embedded into the shelf paper with no air..
@@suzannenishida1849 Sorry, I confused you. It sounded good in my head. The texture was the result of using the thicker fibre paper. My comment about the reactive glasses is that I wouldn't do it with reactive glasses again, so I can use the thinner paper and not worry about the possible contamination from the reactions. Sorry.
B on the outside, nicer colours
Thanks Marion
Could you please let me know what kind of glue you used to attach the pieces to each other? Thanks
Hi Toninho. I used just PVA glue. Because it was opal glass both sides residue won't show. If it was transparent glass I would use the Bullseye tac glue.
Blue outside.
Thank you.
Side A inside Side B outside
Thanks Cindy.
How did you clean side B ?
I think you mean cleaning up those little black spots. They were very shallow so I first used a diamond bit and ground out the worst of them. This left a slight hole, but them when I sandblasted it cleaned that up a bit. Then when I draped the piece, the variation in the surface was hardly noticeable due to the satin finish. The sandblasting also remove the devit you could see. Hope that helps.
@@RocketRoseArt Thanks, but I meant the kiln paper was attached to one of the sites.
I just lifted it carefully and used a spatula to release anywhere it was stuck. The fiber paper was torn a bit but still usable.
@@RocketRoseArt I have made some fused glass jewelries that the kiln paper is stuck and doesn't get off
@@vakhbod100 In that video I used fibre paper which is a lot thicker. If you've used kiln paper like Thinfire, which is thin like normal paper, it shouldn't be sticking. It may leave a textured surface but I don't remember it ever sticking so bad I can't remove it. When I used to use kiln wash it would stick and I usually sandblasted it off before doing a fire polish. Or try just wet and dry sandpaper, with water. Or a hand diamond pad. Once you get it off then do a fire polish to restore the surface. If you could send me a photo through my website maybe it will give me a better idea of what is happening.
B outside. No question
Thanks Ted
B inside
Thanks Dot ComMom. Love that name.
A inside. B outside
Thanks Christina
why doesn't my donate button work?
Sorry Suzanne. I'm not sure. Are you mobile or desktop?
@@RocketRoseArt mobile
Sorry for the delay Suzanne. I checked on my iPhone and it seems to work okay. The button I used is off screen to the right. There's a row of buttons that start with the Thumbs Up, then Share etc. Slide that across and the Thanks button is there. But I suspect you know this and it just isn't working. Thanks for the thought though. We appreciate it.
@@RocketRoseArt yes it just says there was a problem processing my purchase! 🙁
so how are you doing? back to working again? waiting to see how you finished your project!
B outside
Thanks Jen.