The ES 335 Guitar Kit Build! (Part 2)
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- Опубліковано 17 вер 2024
- Welcome back to the ES 335 guitar kit build. In this video we ensure that everything is set up correctly for the electronics, and we begin the finishing process with our prep sanding and sealer work.
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Its going to look good with a burst finish! Has nice wood figuring on the back!
Indeed; I’m happy with how the burst looks on it.
I’m about to start in on a Warmoth strat myself and I’ve been watching your spray videos. Thanks for all the content!
Thanks for watching
Nice kit - looking forward to the rest of the series, Thanks Brad
Thanks Dan
You are playing a VERY dangerous game with that sander, Mr. Bond...a game you cannot win!
Hahaha
Love all your videos Brad. Thank you
Thanks!
Great tutorial Brad. Thanks
Thanks Steve
Looking goods always Brad. I like those guitars. You take the time to put the nice components in, and that makes all the difference. Cool build, can't wait to see the burst.
Thank you
How do I find the burst episode?
@@jeromelowesr9508 Brad has many videos on doing burst, but this one is coming up soon.
Cool man its gonna look good
Absolutely it will. This kit is great.
Looks gr8 man! Been thinking about doing one of these for a while now...Might just have to get on it!!!
Good timing!
13:41 "This can be a bit tough on the arms..." unless you have Brad Angove guns!! Love your vids, Brad.
Haha thanks Mark
Nice man
Nice!
So I guess the burst will be done with Lacquer. Looks great as usual!
Correct!
You have a CNC paint arm, dam is that a disciplined spray pattern.
Haha thanks. That’s a lot of practice at work.
Question, why glue in the neck before you sand the body? I enjoy the videos.
Could do it either way. The glue-up may result in some re-sanding work on the body though if you decide to sand it first.
I loved this video on multiple levels. Not only was it a detailed excellent video on sanding and sealing, it was an excellent update on a guitar I'm very keen to see done but....and please don't take this the wrong way..... but I couldn't stop myself laughing at you dealing with the annoying ribbon/wire. Only cause I've been there too and I would be equally annoyed....okay maybe a bit more annoyed than you. 😂
Ya that silly thing was driving me nuts haha
I am about to pull the trigger on the Solo doubleneck... just have to save a little so my wife doesn't freak out in case of an emergency
Haha yeah that’s how it tends to work hey?
When will you show the rest of the videos for this ES335 to completion?
As I complete them. They have been coming out weekly. The next one is later today.
Brad, when are you going to make one of these beauties from scratch? A tutorial on your metal pickguards would be nice as well. :)
I doubt I’ll be making a hollow body guitar from scratch, but I’m sure I’ll make a few scratch guitars once I have my few outstanding commissions and kits complete.
Strange……I built a Solo ES335 from their kit. I notice that the horns of yours are even top to bottom. On mine, the top horn is longer than the bottom horn. I figured it was to make it just different enough not to get sued by Gibson. Yours is closer to a real Gibson. I dyed my top dark blue and gave the sides and back a slight purple tint. Then used several coats of vinyl sealer and about 20 coats of nitrocellulose lacquer. Upgraded the pickups with Epiphone vintage humbuckers and the other electronics with CTS pots and orange drop cap and switch craft switch. Wired to vintage Les Paul schematic. Used Mohawk pre cat lacquer.
Sounds like an awesome project. My kit is from a couple years ago before Gibson threw its tantrum, so you’re probably right about the reason for the shape.
First coats j/k
Is that a Hakko soldering station I see in the background? I have one identical to that if is is. I love those and I love this build. I'm not really a 335 guy but I'm loving this one and I'm sure I'll scratch build one eventually.
It might be. That one isn’t mine; I use a Weller.
@@BradAngove if you ever come across a good deal on one of the blue and yellow Hakko's. Get it. The black and white ones are great but the blue and yellow ones are compact and the temp adjustment is very accurate. Anything less than $75US for the Hakko.is a good deal! Peace brother.
@@BradAngove I also wanted to thank you for all the finish videos you post my friend. I'm pretty set when it comes to standard auto paint and clear. The techniques you've posted are the kicker. You have broadened my horizons and I really appreciate it.
Cheers buddy
Coming along nicely I'm actually considering building a copy of a teisco hollowbody guitar I really like there was a design flaw with the original that causes all their necks to tilt forward untill you can't play them because the action is just too high I'm mostly looking to copy the appearance and style of the original not sure how I'm gonna match the original paint tho
Get an auto body shop to mix a matched paint for you?
Hi Brad. Great videos, I’ve learned a lot! I’m looking for the video you reference for the tool you’ve made to scrape the bindings. I wonder if you could direct me to a link for that video? Thank you very kindly. Best regards, Robert
ua-cam.com/video/OPDMNQTsEjE/v-deo.html
@@BradAngove Thank you!
Nice prep work! That’s how I know the finish will turn out awesome.
Indeed; preparation is truly key.
I am about to paint my first guitar kit. Do i need to seal it before or after using grain filler? Also does Oxford deliver to the states
After the grain filler.
I bought verathane sanding sealer ?, and Colortone grain filler . what sanding sealer should I use with water based dyes?
Anything other than water based basically.
You deserve what? Maybe a Coors Lite!😬
Brad drinks decent beer. Coors Lite is the fave of the Gluten Free boys.
Nobody deserves a coors light without due process, aka a trial, first.
@@BradAngove I'll volunteer for jury duty on that one.
@@BradAngove , I agree with that wholeheartedly. But then again I don’t drink the stuff 😬 but Matt and Chris think you should have it.
Going through these videos again Brad, as my custom 335 kit just came in from Pitbull. I'm going to use Rit dye to stain the guitar in the burst I'm going for - would I need to apply that before or after the sanding sealer? I've never used it before! Thanks
Yes if you’re dyeing it you would do that before sanding sealer.
Thanks for the video. I may have missed it but what finish are you using? Thanks so much.
Nitrocellulose lacquer from Oxford supply.
Is Speedokote water based wax and grease remover ok to use for the cleaning after sanding?
I’m not familiar with that product, but probably.
@@BradAngove ok thanks!
Is it possible to convert this kit for Dog ear P90’s to create a Casino/330 guitar?
If you can get the appropriate pickup rings.
Do you use tack rags at all before you spray?
I don’t. I use wax and grease remover. Tack rags can leave a little bit of residue sometimes.
Did you sand the sealer that comes on the kit completly off before you added the oxford sealer?
Not completely. Just smooth.
@@BradAngove but if you were using stains, you would have to?
Yes, generally.
Hi Brad, what specs are you using for the wiring kit from GunStreet? I've put together my kit already, but it could use a bit more in the wiring and pickup departments!
I think it was their “modern” sg kit. I just asked them to pick something cool haha.
Good tutorial. Why did you install the neck before finishing the body? So you wouldn't have to tape off the neck pocket?
So I wouldn’t have to clamp on a finished body for gluing. That ruins the finish.
I hope you go slow and make numerous videos on this build, because you made us wait 5 years. 🇨🇦 Texas Toast would've just cut an electronics hole in the back.😂😂😂😂😂
I strongly considered doing that haha.
What is your actual dayjob?
Litigation
1969, two men walked on the surface of the Moon. 2021, guitarkits maker can’t find out how to make holes big enough for the pot’s shafts…
Pots come with different size shafts. The upgrade hardware I selected just happens to have larger diameter shafts.
Dude, Solo guitar kits are the worst. My SG custom's neck didn't come close to fitting the pocket, the neck was way too big. Once I was able to get it in the pocket it was cut unevenly so I had to use wood splints/shims to correct the angle and action. Now I'm left with gaps all over the pocket that cannot be filled even though the neck and scale length are now correct. None of the hardware fit the holes on the body, I had to carefully sand the existing holes to make anything fit. The nut was also cut horribly, the worst I've seen. I will never, ever buy a Solo kit again. I bought it specifically based on your recommendation.
So it was too big but you still ended up with gaps? That’s surprising. I’m not sure what you did there but regardless their customer service is pretty good so they may be able to help you out. Or just buy from somewhere else if you want; I like solo but that certainly doesn’t mean you have to bug from there.
@@BradAngove dude. I had a choice. Cut the neck tenon or gently sand the sides of the pocket. Out of the box the neck did not come close to fitting. I did not touch the bottom of the pocket so it was cut to wrong specs. Once it fit, not only was the angle wrong but it needed two shims to bring the action to where it should be. Fortunately, I installed two tuners on both Es and strung it to be sure scale length, angle and action would be salvageable. It is clamped now so beside the gaps in the pocket, some I will fill with wood filler, it will be ok structurally. I also have to saw the extra material as a result of the shims to make the neck flush with the top of the body. Outside of the fretboard which has clear scratches the fret work seems reasonable. Overall, one star for this Solo kit. I’m not even addressing all the problems but I will upgrade all hardware and pickups. I will make it far better than it ever deserved to be.
If you need to increase neck angle it’s usually best to check the height first. Sometimes a bit of sanding is a better option than shimming.
@@BradAngove The bottom of the pocket was cut too low to make the action as it should, the option I chose was to build up the neck tenon. The pocket or the neck tenon was horribly wrong. It is possible they sent a mismatched kit with neck and body not properly aligned. It is also possible they send you grade A stuff to review and the rest of us get the garbage. This kit was well over $200 and a total ripoff.
Ok. I get almost exclusively good feedback about them from my viewers, but it’s not like I work for them. Normally if there’s an issue one would just contact their customer service and get it dealt with.
I want rid of the tailpiece. Is it just me? I hate it. It’s repulsive and cheap looking. If it’s replicating the original, I hate it too. I hope you design your own and it’s some cool ass chrome. Then put those on a cigar box guitar where they belong. Lol im sorry perhaps I over reacted. Lolol
I don’t think I really have the skills to design my own haha.
Yes you do and now I suspect you already have and Im just not privy. Lol
This was 8 months ago lol it’s probably got a bigsby by now. Lol