Great video... Thanks for taking the time and effort posting this info... Shame on the manufacturers that do not mark up the terminal with the proper connections so we, the end user can do things right. Today I could solve a long time mistery trying to figure out why lights were performing so poorly in 2 trucks. Now they shine like stars. THanks!!!
Hi all, I believe Seth is accurate . I believe that the low beam is the larger filament and the high beam is the smaller one. I have broken my 4x6 sealed beam bulb and looked at the bulb closely and just like Tango Golf stated, the ground is as he described. If you put left on ground, and add 12v to the lower middle and look at the wall, it will be higher. If you touch the upper right with 12v, it will be brighter, but will be lower on the wall.
This is accurate. Today I replaced all four headlights with (H4656+H4651)*2 and had to redo the sockets. I was forced to do the further testing myself.
and is it right? I need to replace my old ones from my chevy blazer 1997 but ai dont want to do anything to them, Do they already come with low and high?
Does the DRL run through the low beam? DRL and low beam are the same lights? The two systems run through different components and reach the same prong on the bulb?
Hi Glen, That's a good question, but one I don't have an answer for. On my application I don't have DRL's, it's a 1996 RV and it doesn't have them. Sorry I don't have answer for you.
Ummm.... all that and it is still incorrect. High beam is on the "bottom", low beam to right--not a question of watts, if you hook it up as shown, your "high beams" will be aimed at the ground.
Hi Seth - Thanks for chiming in, please (and I mean that sincerely) share the information supporting your conclusion.I spent a heck of a lot of time trying to nail down this issue. Right now I'm 99% certain that I've solved this mystery, however that 1% was caused by your comment. These bulbs are currently installed and connected and during a night time test did exactly what they were supposed to do based on the information presented here in the video. Low beams were low, high beams hit me in the eyes, exactly as expected. So, like I said please take a minute or two and support your comment, because if I have to I'm willing to go back to the garage and do it all over again based on some strong counter arguments. But, there must be supporting evidence to prompt a re-investigation of the situation! Thanks for taking the time to participate!
The second photo shows these bulbs as installed in my Volvo 740. High beams are on, which is also indicated by the voltmeter, which you can see is connected at the terminal that you label as "low beams". It's possible to switch these, of course, but the beam pattern will not be correct and it is not possible to aim the bulbs correctly this way. These bulbs are designed for applications which have auxiliary brights which are also on when high beams are on, but not on low beam. As such, perhaps the high beam filament need not be as bright as the low, because there is another high-beam-only headlight that is also operating. You could insist on making the terminal you have labeled as "high beam" correspond with high beams, but you would need to mount them upside down, and I'm still not sure the beam pattern would be correct. Your analysis of the filaments and wattage is correct, but fails to consider the optics of the glass and the application for which it is designed. High beams are not always brighter.
Hi Seth, Thanks for sharing the information! Now I'm a man who wants accurate information and I mean that. So, based on that please bear with me as I ask a few questions. First, I can understand about bulb placement within the reflective dish on the inside on the sealed beam, that makes perfect sense. But, what I would offer as a counter argument is that both filaments are encapsulated within a small glass bulb. They are separated by (literally) less than 1 millimeter. I doubt the placement of the filaments which is that tight results in a pattern different enough to see. Especially since the inside of the reflective dish is smooth. The optics of the glass does not so much aim the beam, it disperses the light over a broader area. The second counter argument I would offer up is that the sister high beam bulb to this H4656, (which is a H4651 if my memory serves me right) uses the nearly the same amount of wattage as the H4656 does while on high beam. If the wattage were irrelevant the H4651 would simply use the same lower wattage filament, wouldn't that be a correct assumption? However...I have an idea, I'm going to do a little night time test. I'll take the RV out to a big parking lot after dark and do some actual testing approaching the RV in my car and see if I can discern the difference. Ergo, until I have conducted another experiment I'll have to leave this in the questionable phase.
Seth - Below - Dude, how can he be wrong? The man disassembled the bulb and proved it!!!!! And how can you say "not a question of watts"? Do you know anything about electrical current? Have you ever noticed that a 75 watt bulb is brighter that a 50 watt bulb? Just sayin! Back up what you are saying!
See my other comment above. The author of this video is right about everything except where the bulbs are focused, which is more important than how bright the filaments are. These lights are designed for vehicles with four headlights, where all four are operating on high beams, but only two H4656 bulbs are on when they are switched to low. As such they don't need to be as bright on high beams as in other applications. If you install the wires as the author indicates your lights will be aimed improperly.
fuck this, the lights are going in the trash, swapping my plow lights with LED.....literally DONT have time to back engineer crappy technology from 30 years ago.
Great video... Thanks for taking the time and effort posting this info... Shame on the manufacturers that do not mark up the terminal with the proper connections so we, the end user can do things right.
Today I could solve a long time mistery trying to figure out why lights were performing so poorly in 2 trucks. Now they shine like stars. THanks!!!
Thank you! This fixed my headlight connections on my Peterbilt 379. Both sides the plastic connector were incorrectly marked.
Hi all, I believe Seth is accurate . I believe that the low beam is the larger filament and the high beam is the smaller one. I have broken my 4x6 sealed beam bulb and looked at the bulb closely and just like Tango Golf stated, the ground is as he described. If you put left on ground, and add 12v to the lower middle and look at the wall, it will be higher. If you touch the upper right with 12v, it will be brighter, but will be lower on the wall.
This is accurate. Today I replaced all four headlights with (H4656+H4651)*2 and had to redo the sockets. I was forced to do the further testing myself.
Please perform this same test on a H6054 sealed beam light.
Thank you...just needed to know if the h4656 was a low and high ....thanks
and is it right? I need to replace my old ones from my chevy blazer 1997 but ai dont want to do anything to them, Do they already come with low and high?
very comprehensive, thank you.
Great video now I'm very sure on the connection.thanks
Thank you
Sure did, Thanks.
One way looks yellow other way looks white. What is it ?
Tango Golf - If you reach out to me I'll provide the SAE - Society of Automotive Engineers document identifying the correct terminals.
Great job brotha, you think all sealed beam are this configuration ?
Thanks helped me out bud
Can you give example of #StanleySealedBeamHeadlight
Does the DRL run through the low beam? DRL and low beam are the same lights? The two systems run through different components and reach the same prong on the bulb?
Hi Glen,
That's a good question, but one I don't have an answer for. On my application I don't have DRL's, it's a 1996 RV and it doesn't have them. Sorry I don't have answer for you.
Hi, I know this video is a little more complicated goal, but Do they come with low and high lights integreated without touching a damn wire ?
nice
Ummm.... all that and it is still incorrect. High beam is on the "bottom", low beam to right--not a question of watts, if you hook it up as shown, your "high beams" will be aimed at the ground.
Hi Seth - Thanks for chiming in, please (and I mean that sincerely) share the information supporting your conclusion.I spent a heck of a lot of time trying to nail down this issue. Right now I'm 99% certain that I've solved this mystery, however that 1% was caused by your comment. These bulbs are currently installed and connected and during a night time test did exactly what they were supposed to do based on the information presented here in the video. Low beams were low, high beams hit me in the eyes, exactly as expected. So, like I said please take a minute or two and support your comment, because if I have to I'm willing to go back to the garage and do it all over again based on some strong counter arguments. But, there must be supporting evidence to prompt a re-investigation of the situation! Thanks for taking the time to participate!
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The second photo shows these bulbs as installed in my Volvo 740. High beams are on, which is also indicated by the voltmeter, which you can see is connected at the terminal that you label as "low beams". It's possible to switch these, of course, but the beam pattern will not be correct and it is not possible to aim the bulbs correctly this way. These bulbs are designed for applications which have auxiliary brights which are also on when high beams are on, but not on low beam. As such, perhaps the high beam filament need not be as bright as the low, because there is another high-beam-only headlight that is also operating. You could insist on making the terminal you have labeled as "high beam" correspond with high beams, but you would need to mount them upside down, and I'm still not sure the beam pattern would be correct. Your analysis of the filaments and wattage is correct, but fails to consider the optics of the glass and the application for which it is designed. High beams are not always brighter.
Hi Seth,
Thanks for sharing the information! Now I'm a man who wants accurate information and I mean that. So, based on that please bear with me as I ask a few questions. First, I can understand about bulb placement within the reflective dish on the inside on the sealed beam, that makes perfect sense. But, what I would offer as a counter argument is that both filaments are encapsulated within a small glass bulb. They are separated by (literally) less than 1 millimeter. I doubt the placement of the filaments which is that tight results in a pattern different enough to see. Especially since the inside of the reflective dish is smooth. The optics of the glass does not so much aim the beam, it disperses the light over a broader area. The second counter argument I would offer up is that the sister high beam bulb to this H4656, (which is a H4651 if my memory serves me right) uses the nearly the same amount of wattage as the H4656 does while on high beam. If the wattage were irrelevant the H4651 would simply use the same lower wattage filament, wouldn't that be a correct assumption? However...I have an idea, I'm going to do a little night time test. I'll take the RV out to a big parking lot after dark and do some actual testing approaching the RV in my car and see if I can discern the difference. Ergo, until I have conducted another experiment I'll have to leave this in the questionable phase.
Seth - Below - Dude, how can he be wrong? The man disassembled the bulb and proved it!!!!! And how can you say "not a question of watts"? Do you know anything about electrical current? Have you ever noticed that a 75 watt bulb is brighter that a 50 watt bulb? Just sayin! Back up what you are saying!
See my other comment above. The author of this video is right about everything except where the bulbs are focused, which is more important than how bright the filaments are. These lights are designed for vehicles with four headlights, where all four are operating on high beams, but only two H4656 bulbs are on when they are switched to low. As such they don't need to be as bright on high beams as in other applications. If you install the wires as the author indicates your lights will be aimed improperly.
fuck this, the lights are going in the trash, swapping my plow lights with LED.....literally DONT have time to back engineer crappy technology from 30 years ago.