Nice. I used insulated sections on a layout like that. I wired Atlas slide control A-B switches so I could bybass the blocks for single train operation as well.
I did the same thing using one of my modified control buttons. I can turn the whistle on and off and with a separate switch I can turn on and off the two train operation. I use the middle button on the switch to activate the whistle manually when the train is in the tunnel block.
I will look forward to this series. I used the same system to build a layout in the late 1980, which allowed me to run as many as four trains at the same time on the same loop. Every three sections of track was a block, and both main loops were composed of at least eight blocks. Through the use of DPDT switches I was able to assign a specific transformer to a specific locomotive and run that locomotive to any specific on the layout I wanted it to go. I had cab control before it was actually invented, or at least before I had heard of it.
That’s amazing! I’m not sure I’ll get that extensive right now, but that would be a great project for a bigger layout. I’m having trouble just controlling two trains on my 4x6 like in the little accident short I had during the making of this video, lol!
It runs with a no. 26671 track trip hidden under the mountain. Originally it operated the whistle as the train went through the tunnel. It used a barrel loader switch (I think) to shut off the whistle so it doesn’t burn up or drive people silly when the train is running. I modified the track to allow for two train operation so I can run both the Franklin and a Washington set at the same time. It changes from original, but not too bad if you think the store it came from modified it to sell both Frontiersman sets in 1960.
HOS West, How do you close gap in railhead for rail opposite a fiber while keeping the railheads properly spaced and track properly laid in straight and curve sections. I’ve discovered this gap is a point of micro arcing and accumulation of metal oxides.
I have to admit I don’t worry about it too much for amount of operating I do. That said, I think a good polishing of the metal track pin before assembly would help and then subsequent scrubbing or polishing may have to be done with a small wire brush or Dremel tool wire wheel to clean out the collected carbon and wheel gunk that accumulates in the gap. Maybe even filing the two rails flush on the top and sides. Austin’s American Flyer channel talks about some CRC conductive electronic cleaner that might be worth a try. CRC 2-26 I believe. Thanks for your question!
@@HallofScienceWest thanks for reply. Suggestion, clean track, pin, and receptacle on adjacent rail, best to use 100% pure mineral spirits., NOT CRC 2-26. Check out Fugate’s 2019 Dielectric Constant rating chart for polar vs non-polar solvents, 100% pure mineral spirits ranks very high whereas CRC 2-16 is mid range with a much higher ranking due to its polarity. I recommend using CRC 2-26 in the right places like reverse units and switch’s, BUT NEVER use CRC 2-26 on the railhead. It is a lubricant, it cleans, and it improves electrical properties that no one to my knowledge has tested its impact on pull-mor tires, and it leaves a residue. The final step is adjust rails for proper spacing, a drop of solder on the pin, then file down solder to match rail height eliminating or reducing potential of higher micro arcing in the gap and the accumulation of metal oxides a.k.a. black carbon burn. Thoughts?
@@davesaftrains4368 That’s a very interesting observation about electronic cleaner on pullmor tires. Whereas mineral spirits are an old standby that cleans the track with no residue remaining. As far as soldering the rails I have to say that would be a great idea for a permanent layout, but not really necessary or practical for a temporary layout. If you look at close up shots of the New York Hall of Science 3rd layout you can see where the display workers soldered the rails together. I’m sure it improved reliability and eased cleaning on that big layout that ran daily for four years. However, you have an interesting idea with putting a drop of solder on the metal pin and filing. I think if you made a metal “t-shaped” version of the fiber pin for the opposite rail it would gap both sides equally. It’s not something I care to do with my temporary displays for ease of disassembly, but someday I’ll have that dream layout and solder will find its way into the gaps. Thanks for the cool idea.
Nice. I used insulated sections on a layout like that. I wired Atlas slide control A-B switches so I could bybass the blocks for single train operation as well.
I did the same thing using one of my modified control buttons. I can turn the whistle on and off and with a separate switch I can turn on and off the two train operation. I use the middle button on the switch to activate the whistle manually when the train is in the tunnel block.
I will look forward to this series. I used the same system to build a layout in the late 1980, which allowed me to run as many as four trains at the same time on the same loop. Every three sections of track was a block, and both main loops were composed of at least eight blocks. Through the use of DPDT switches I was able to assign a specific transformer to a specific locomotive and run that locomotive to any specific on the layout I wanted it to go. I had cab control before it was actually invented, or at least before I had heard of it.
That’s amazing! I’m not sure I’ll get that extensive right now, but that would be a great project for a bigger layout. I’m having trouble just controlling two trains on my 4x6 like in the little accident short I had during the making of this video, lol!
Very cool
That’s really interesting. Don’t you need a semaphore or some sort of track trip controlling it?
It runs with a no. 26671 track trip hidden under the mountain. Originally it operated the whistle as the train went through the tunnel. It used a barrel loader switch (I think) to shut off the whistle so it doesn’t burn up or drive people silly when the train is running. I modified the track to allow for two train operation so I can run both the Franklin and a Washington set at the same time. It changes from original, but not too bad if you think the store it came from modified it to sell both Frontiersman sets in 1960.
HOS West, How do you close gap in railhead for rail opposite a fiber while keeping the railheads properly spaced and track properly laid in straight and curve sections. I’ve discovered this gap is a point of micro arcing and accumulation of metal oxides.
I have to admit I don’t worry about it too much for amount of operating I do. That said, I think a good polishing of the metal track pin before assembly would help and then subsequent scrubbing or polishing may have to be done with a small wire brush or Dremel tool wire wheel to clean out the collected carbon and wheel gunk that accumulates in the gap. Maybe even filing the two rails flush on the top and sides. Austin’s American Flyer channel talks about some CRC conductive electronic cleaner that might be worth a try. CRC 2-26 I believe. Thanks for your question!
@@HallofScienceWest thanks for reply. Suggestion, clean track, pin, and receptacle on adjacent rail, best to use 100% pure mineral spirits., NOT CRC 2-26. Check out Fugate’s 2019 Dielectric Constant rating chart for polar vs non-polar solvents, 100% pure mineral spirits ranks very high whereas CRC 2-16 is mid range with a much higher ranking due to its polarity. I recommend using CRC 2-26 in the right places like reverse units and switch’s, BUT NEVER use CRC 2-26 on the railhead. It is a lubricant, it cleans, and it improves electrical properties that no one to my knowledge has tested its impact on pull-mor tires, and it leaves a residue. The final step is adjust rails for proper spacing, a drop of solder on the pin, then file down solder to match rail height eliminating or reducing potential of higher micro arcing in the gap and the accumulation of metal oxides a.k.a. black carbon burn. Thoughts?
@@davesaftrains4368 That’s a very interesting observation about electronic cleaner on pullmor tires. Whereas mineral spirits are an old standby that cleans the track with no residue remaining. As far as soldering the rails I have to say that would be a great idea for a permanent layout, but not really necessary or practical for a temporary layout. If you look at close up shots of the New York Hall of Science 3rd layout you can see where the display workers soldered the rails together. I’m sure it improved reliability and eased cleaning on that big layout that ran daily for four years. However, you have an interesting idea with putting a drop of solder on the metal pin and filing. I think if you made a metal “t-shaped” version of the fiber pin for the opposite rail it would gap both sides equally. It’s not something I care to do with my temporary displays for ease of disassembly, but someday I’ll have that dream layout and solder will find its way into the gaps. Thanks for the cool idea.
Fiber pins rare. Can not even find the Flyonel plastic pins so using Gargrave insulated pins to same effect.