Nice video bro! I knew something wasn’t right when i saw that other video of the skunk2 valve cover hardware gasket install i saw that the valve cover wasn’t snugging flush like it was suppose to i automatically thought it was Skunk2 hardware but turned out it was that mis match gasket seal covers! Nice for troubleshooting! Thanks!
Nice video and good for you, you could bypass the squirters but I can’t find the like for my 3.6 and I have no idea how they’re even breaking off. I’ve had two of them break off after an engine rebuild
It is strange, I could spin my motor freely without contact. I'm guessing you have to bend them back a little bit so the gap between the squirter and the piston won't close. Also don't delete the squirters if you don't have forged Pistons 👍
@@kraftingkars I don’t plan on deleting them. I noticed the bolts were all loose as if they spun out from vibration and just played ping pong with the pistons.. I’ll seal them in with blue loctite this time but I won’t go as far as to bend them
I’m having the same problem on my N/A B18c4. I have new pistons for higher compression ratio, and the problem is whenever you change pistons you have to check squirters clearance, because spinning piston assembly by hand won’t give you the same forces and heat expansion as motor spinning itself at 8,500 rpm. The problem that i have because of this is not enough oil pressure for vtec to engage, but I don’t understand why. Those jets are screwed in block with a special ball bearing nut which at certain pressure opens up and lets oil through jets onto piston, so broken jets should not make the difference in pressure. And i am not sure that the oil pick up could be clogged by them, because i have already removed 2 broken jets from oil pan. So I guess 2 more are still in place. The only explanation that i have right now, is that the hit on squirter was so strong that it bent the nut itself and now it dumps oil back into the pan all the time or worst case scenario, oil pump is screwed by small parts of those jets. Going to take my car to the shop tomorrow, if somebody having the same problem tag me, probably going to solve this in a few days
After reassembling this motor, the dyno session did not go so well, I still lost a ton of oil pressure and had to end the session early since my VTEC wasn't engaging either. Got home and started pulling the engine apart to find all my bearings were shredded. I either had premature oil pump failure, or something causing tons of debris in my oil. Either way I ended up sending my block out to css to get the closed deck conversion, balance my lower end, overbore my cylinders and install new 82mm pistons to match. And install new bearings. After getting everything all back together I finally had a successful dyno session and now don't see oil pressure drop below 20psi! Good luck on your findings!
@@kraftingkars i guess i got lucky. So i got explanation to my problem. So i had an oil leak and a repair guy sad that it’s common thing on old honda engine because of bended oil pan, good option is to remove oil pan gasket and replace it with liquid gasket. I went to this shop and after deleting my gasket mechanic found broken oil jets in my pan, that’s when my oil pressure dropped, I couldn’t figure out how can it be connected with broken squirtes because they dont regulate oil pressure the nut which bolts them does, so i went to a different shop and they told me it was simple mechanic mistake. He didn’t bent my oil pick up and because of gasket delete pan was closer to pick up and it was sucking bottom of the oil pan rather than oil. And the squrters broke of because of my mistake I didn’t bend them when assembling my engine ( it was my first rebuild and i used new pistons). Unfortunately there was no b18 squirters in stock so they took k20 and bended them everything works fine except my oil pin this sucker leaks again.
I haven't made a video about it yet. I've got a new red dragonfire distributor coming in the mail, I plan on re setting the base timing when I install that. Making a video on the whole process.
It is pretty straight forward though. 1. Connect laptop with s300 to ecu and start car 2. Click the "set base timing" parameter under the "online tab 3. This locks your ign timing to 16 degrees 4. Hook up a timing light to spark plug wire #1 5.loosen distributor 6. Line up the factory marks on your crank pulley with the line on your lower timing cover by slightly rotating your distributor. (Will only be able to see when timing light is flashing) 7. Tighten everything down and your all set
Nice video bro! I knew something wasn’t right when i saw that other video of the skunk2 valve cover hardware gasket install i saw that the valve cover wasn’t snugging flush like it was suppose to i automatically thought it was Skunk2 hardware but turned out it was that mis match gasket seal covers! Nice for troubleshooting! Thanks!
Hey man thanks for all the nice comments!
Nice video and good for you, you could bypass the squirters but I can’t find the like for my 3.6 and I have no idea how they’re even breaking off. I’ve had two of them break off after an engine rebuild
It is strange, I could spin my motor freely without contact. I'm guessing you have to bend them back a little bit so the gap between the squirter and the piston won't close. Also don't delete the squirters if you don't have forged Pistons 👍
@@kraftingkars I don’t plan on deleting them. I noticed the bolts were all loose as if they spun out from vibration and just played ping pong with the pistons.. I’ll seal them in with blue loctite this time but I won’t go as far as to bend them
I’m having the same problem on my N/A B18c4. I have new pistons for higher compression ratio, and the problem is whenever you change pistons you have to check squirters clearance, because spinning piston assembly by hand won’t give you the same forces and heat expansion as motor spinning itself at 8,500 rpm. The problem that i have because of this is not enough oil pressure for vtec to engage, but I don’t understand why. Those jets are screwed in block with a special ball bearing nut which at certain pressure opens up and lets oil through jets onto piston, so broken jets should not make the difference in pressure. And i am not sure that the oil pick up could be clogged by them, because i have already removed 2 broken jets from oil pan. So I guess 2 more are still in place. The only explanation that i have right now, is that the hit on squirter was so strong that it bent the nut itself and now it dumps oil back into the pan all the time or worst case scenario, oil pump is screwed by small parts of those jets. Going to take my car to the shop tomorrow, if somebody having the same problem tag me, probably going to solve this in a few days
After reassembling this motor, the dyno session did not go so well, I still lost a ton of oil pressure and had to end the session early since my VTEC wasn't engaging either. Got home and started pulling the engine apart to find all my bearings were shredded. I either had premature oil pump failure, or something causing tons of debris in my oil. Either way I ended up sending my block out to css to get the closed deck conversion, balance my lower end, overbore my cylinders and install new 82mm pistons to match. And install new bearings. After getting everything all back together I finally had a successful dyno session and now don't see oil pressure drop below 20psi! Good luck on your findings!
I also installed a 4piston oil pump for safe measure, so far it out performs my old acl pump
@@kraftingkars i guess i got lucky.
So i got explanation to my problem. So i had an oil leak and a repair guy sad that it’s common thing on old honda engine because of bended oil pan, good option is to remove oil pan gasket and replace it with liquid gasket. I went to this shop and after deleting my gasket mechanic found broken oil jets in my pan, that’s when my oil pressure dropped, I couldn’t figure out how can it be connected with broken squirtes because they dont regulate oil pressure the nut which bolts them does, so i went to a different shop and they told me it was simple mechanic mistake. He didn’t bent my oil pick up and because of gasket delete pan was closer to pick up and it was sucking bottom of the oil pan rather than oil. And the squrters broke of because of my mistake I didn’t bend them when assembling my engine ( it was my first rebuild and i used new pistons). Unfortunately there was no b18 squirters in stock so they took k20 and bended them everything works fine except my oil pin this sucker leaks again.
Did you check your main bearings?
I was hoping you could come over and check them for me 🥺👉👈
Did you ever do the ignition timing?
I haven't made a video about it yet. I've got a new red dragonfire distributor coming in the mail, I plan on re setting the base timing when I install that. Making a video on the whole process.
It is pretty straight forward though.
1. Connect laptop with s300 to ecu and start car
2. Click the "set base timing" parameter under the "online tab
3. This locks your ign timing to 16 degrees
4. Hook up a timing light to spark plug wire #1
5.loosen distributor
6. Line up the factory marks on your crank pulley with the line on your lower timing cover by slightly rotating your distributor. (Will only be able to see when timing light is flashing)
7. Tighten everything down and your all set
Broke 3 hunna😎
Might want to keep the "believing everything on the internet" stuff to yourself. Especially with the way things are today. Very informative otherwise.
I don't actually believe everything I hear on the internet, that's a big no no when building an engine 😂
@@kraftingkars I kind of figured that. But today's climate has made me uncertain nowadays.