Finishing Boiler Bulkheads - Pennsylvania A3 Switcher, Part 3
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- Опубліковано 15 вер 2024
- This episode on Blondihacks, I’m finishing the boiler sheets on my A3! Exclusive videos, drawings, models & plans available on Patreon!
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Hey everyone! Lots of folks asking about the broken drills and reamers being too long even though I have the new mill. Well, that’s because the new mill only came in right at the end of this video. If you look closely, you can see the mill magically upgrade itself in the middle of the firebox tube sheet. 😬 The new mill should fit all my reamers and with 4000rpm I’ll break a lot fewer of those tiny drills (I hope)
Outstanding....Thanks you Mam.....
Shoe🇺🇸
Very nice work on some pretty challenging parts, Quinn!
I'm sold!! If PM mills "magically upgrade", I'm writing a order!! I'm so excited!!!
During a recent phase of my large scale solar project drilling 1/2" to 1/4" copper bus bars that was my favorite exasperated phrase around the shop "I hate drilling copper!" I didn't want to use lube however in the future I will try a higher RPM. Micro carbide Dremel bits and a press from the other side were my friend to extract these broken beauties.
😊😊
This'll just be a unique custom Quinn left-handed steam engine ✨
matched set of mirror image steam engines for a sidewheel paddleboat? That would be a flex.
@@redramage why make one when you can make two at twice the price!
@@RedPandaLesbian Contact is such an underrated movie. .
@@sivalley Top 5 of all time for me 🎉
Recommended for the Southern hemisphere /s
A tip from the jewelry industry. To remove broken steel drill bits or taps from non-ferrous metals throw them in a bit of pickle overnight. The pickle will attack the more active metal, in this case the steel, and dissolve it without harming the copper or brass or whatever. Don't throw it in your main pickle container as the steel will contaminate the pickle.
Also, titanium makes an excellent solder pick, as silver solder will not stick to it.
Great tips!
This is excellent advice!
This is a great tip, and I'm guessing works well for copper, bronze, silver and gold. Alumin(i)um is more reactive than steel so probably dissolves preferrentially. Does the zinc also get leached out of the brass in preference to the steel being attacked?
@@hollo9571 In aluminum you can anodize out the tap. All you need is 5-15% sulfuric acid (or sodium bisulphate like the pickle bath Quinn is using) and an old (non-intelligent) 12V battery charger.
@@hollo9571 Beats me. I don't work in brass so have never had to worry about or research that.
Very nice job, Quinn. I have done some silver soldering, and it hasn't always gone as well for me. Thanks for pointing out the areas where you can't compromise, and I'm glad you took to time to re-make the part you were a little unsure about. That really speaks to your commitment for excellence!
I agree Ron! Quinn - thanks so much for the detailed walk through the silver soldering process! The blow by blow description of how the flux changes as it heats was excellent! I'll refer to this video before silver soldering in the future.Thanks so much! Also thanks for your talks about drills, boring heads, cutting fluid (yes or no), fit up and solder joint inspection. It will give many of us the confidence to jump in on a project like this!
Great '"aside" about the potential collateral damage of the drill breaking - which supports always wearing PPE too.
Now - after the above (well deserved) flattery - did you just use a die in the tailstock or did you single point thread the staybolts while manufacturing them on the lathe? or did you do them in another process. Just curious ...
Thanks Again!
Thank you for sharing your PPE saves. It's always so tempting to not gear up to "just do one little thing real quick".
"this is simultaneously riveting and silver soldering" All your videos are simultaneously riveting, Quinn.
Next time you break off a drill or tap in a part, try using alum to dissolve it out: dissolve a generous amount of alum in water, heat the water, and drop the part in. Let it cook for an hour or two, and voila, the drill is gone! The solution will dissolve most ferrous metals but won't touch nonferrous metals. The hotter the water, the faster it works, so boiling water is best, but you could do it in cold water if you were willing to wait a day or two. With larger drills, you don't need to dissolve the entire thing--just enough that it will fall out of the hole. I have used this method to remove drills from silver jewelry projects, but I have seen it used with aluminum and copper as well.
I've tried alum (and hydrochloric acid) and on some broken drills and taps in large half-inch thick copper blocks. Total fail even after 3 days of gentle boiling in alum. I've changed to Tellurium Copper now and haven't had a snappage in the last three hundred clearance and threaded holes. I wonder if my taps and drills were high-cobalt or something and that prevented them from dissolving? These days if I snap one in C101 copper and can't get it out easily, I just mill it away with a carbide slot drill or use an annular drill, then ream the hole, countersink it and make a rivet plug, peening it in place with a Big Hammer. After face-milling and redrilling, it's almost impossible to detect the fix. No use on a steam boiler though, obvs!
My first intro to PPE was the guy who trained me on cleaning big fryers. His story was similar to Quinn's incident with the drill. At some time prior to working at a restaurant, this guy had worked with industrial sewing machines. In that shop, PPE was provided, but they wouldn't get on your case for not using it. One day, there was a shop tour coming through, so every one had to use their PPE, if only for the look of it. That happened to be the day the needle broke on his machine. The broken piece ended up stuck in his safety glasses right in front of his eyeball. Suffice to say, he wore it religiously after that.
I'm always a bit confused by people who wear their safety glasses over their forehead (often on the bill of a hat) or even the back of their head! (I guess you get extra style points if your eyewear is on the wrong side of your head.) If it's always covering your face you never need to remember to move it "when it's important."
Maybe I can help with your confusion 😜
If the safety glasses are scratched up, like for some reason they always are, then it's annoying to wear them. So it's understandable that people only wear them when needed. And of course then there will be times where you forget to put them back on.
@@Jehty_ we stock glasses all over the place. If they're scratched up, toss em!
> I'm always a bit confused by people who wear their safety glasses over their forehead (often on the bill of a hat) or even the back of their head!
Some people insist that the PPE gets in the way of them doing their job. Of course, nothing gets in the way of not doing the job more than missing the parts of your body that the PPE was supposed to protect.
@@dirttdude Sure. It's a personal choice until you get into an accident and your employer gets fined because you weren't wearing your PPE and your coworkers now have to work overtime until a replacement can be hired and trained, because you lost both eyes to an angry pitbull that targeted you for not wearing a condom.
@@dirttdude That's alright. We're the type of people who point at morons who end up missing finger tips, hands, feet, eyes etc. and laugh.
It all balances out in the end.
You'll be pleased to hear that my young children now know the whole "file the opposite of the curve" thing, and one even reminded me of it today when we were working on filing the ribs off of the nail "axles" for their pinewood derby car. I was very proud 😁
That last soldering looked so perfect!
Great project, following along 🙂
Thanks Stefan! 😊
My heart sunk when you showed that you had a mirror image part. First, thanks for showing us your mistake, something that Norm on This Old House probably wouldn't have done. And then thanks for showing how you were able to use the part anyway. Great work.
I have flown models, and built them - it often happens that people build two wings for the same side! (I did once - ended up building two models, so people wouldn't notice).
Hopefully the door will not get in the way of the water gauge..?
You don’t know what the hell your talking about
That's weird that you should mention Norm, as I scrolled down the comments I was minded to mention him and Adam Booth on the use of PPE and then you mention him on an unrelated subject.
I've had good luck saving brass or copper parts with broken drills or taps in them by leaving them in citric acid for a few days: the acid eats away the steel but does not harm the brass/copper. As an aside, I also use citric acid for pickling parts when silver soldering. Citric acid is widely available as it is used for cooking/canning (it is also an ingredient in a lot of soft drinks) . I do get mine from McMaster Carr but I understand it is available from restaurant supply stores and even some grocery stores. It comes in fine granules that dissolve easily in water.
Yeah you can get it at grocery stores or hardware stores (like Menards) that have a grocery and canning section. It's a handy thing to have around for many reasons. Make your gummy treats more exciting, too!
I love your gentle voice, willingness to show your mistakes, and your machining ability. I'm mostly a woodworker, but I find what you do, absolutely fascinating. Thank you!
I have only recently found your channel and I am addicted! I am a retired auto repair shop owner and now enjoy building and fabricating. I have learned more from you in the last week than in the last 40 years. Keep up the fine work, Old man and his dog
Hat Trick on the drill bits, thanks for the sacrifice to teach others.
You call yourself a hobbyist but you're actually a really good Craftsman, Lady, Woman.
As an aircraft structures mechanic, I am really enjoying all the sheet metal and forming work in this series so far
Hey, I just got a 3 and 1 metal worker last month, too. Mine is a 12-inch variety. The first thing I made with mine was some metal covers for my Mini mill ways.
I'm really enjoying this series. Thanks for taking the time to make and post it..
Have a Jesus filled day, everyone
Greg in Michigan
I always wear eye protection when eating poutine. Gravy can fly anywhere!
Looking forward the next part…
The « mistakes » made will make this one a collector model… unique
26:52 clickspring viewers triggered. Great episode Quinn, looking forward to more of the boiler.
When I had a machine shop years ago, I had a Lagun milling machine and I used a Precise high speed head in a custom ground fixture in the Mill. This head was fluid cooled and would produce over 90,000 rpm for miniature drilling and milling work. I used an alcohol based lubricant and never broke a drill nor milling cutters working this way.
You are doing very nice work on the boiler even though it was mirrored on the boring operations. I do see the problem with the drawing it didn't have a datum location established for the front. Datums are important and also it was nice that the whole thing was inspected by the "rubber ducky."
It's a very good idea to have your stick of solder close to hand so that if you see place where there may not be quite enough, or a tiny gap, you can just touch it with the solder. As you mentioned you need to be certain that the boiler will not fail for want of a touch of silver solder.
Again, thank you for all your efforts, and honesty. Craftsmanship taught here. The sum of your work does exceed the sum of the parts!
Your excellent tip on filling curved surfaces helped me out with something the other day.
Zesting lemons.
I was always getting flat spots and too much white stuff. Lifting the handle through the stroke (I was pulling not pushing - trees the way the teeth go) solved an issue I've had for... well decades!
Never know what you're gonna learn. BTW I'm no machinist nor do I have any machining equipment. But I love watching your videos! Good luck with the build.
Love the use of the haemostat for positioning the 'sodder' at 15:20. I have many surgical instruments in my shop - all procured from ebay for next to nothing.
As a retired oral surgeon I can second that! Quite a few instruments from my OR have made their way into my small hobby shop and are quite useful with tiny parts. Including my surgical magnifying glasses with LED light which I have used more than once. And you are right. These instruments are available dirt cheap on placec like e-bay. When I had to buy them for the OR they cost an arm and a leg!
@@berndheiden7630 happy to hear you worked in oral surgery rather than amputating limbs. Otherwise, that comment about them costing... "an arm and a leg"... could have raised some suspicions.
@@johannesmajamaki2626 That‘s a good one! LOL
@@ChristopherHallett Worcestershire.
I rest my case 😉
@@jonofalltradesmasterofnone832 I know - but Quinn uses both pronunciations - sometimes rhymes it with fodder, and other times with folder!
Watching solder melt and flow makes me look for an exploding volcano and a collapsing dark tower.
Wonderful progress!
I'm a fan of the bits-of-pre-placed-solder method, as opposed to stick or wire. My preference is to shear off a sliver from the edge of flat strip solder, then snip that sliver into many tiny flat rectangles. The flat pallets of solder are not as easily pushed around by the bubbling flux. I'm also convinced that they take up heat quicker because of better contact with the part.
I suppose one could get a similar benefit with wire solder by lightly hammering it a bit flat…
Choo choo!
A tip from my machinist/tool and die maker father in law, there is a technique for reaming called drill reaming and that just has you start with a smaller drill bit and graduate in steps untill the desired hole diameter is achieved.
"...so it's gonna get pretty exciting, pretty quickly here".
I got news for ya... I'm already excited to see it go together. Fantastic work!
LMAO, the redoing it again but better. You certainly wrote a lot of code.
Wow, so much work for something that looks so simple when it is nearing completion. Good Work, thank you for sharing!
Rocking the red flannel I see... Felt like wearing formal Canadian attire? 😁
Actually, a benign and very effective cutting fluid for copper is plain old milk. Washes off, no contam, and works great.
anytime something ever breaks in a shop, it goes right for the eyes. Its like a law of nature 😂😂
This is very impressive craftsmanship (craftswomanship? craftspersonship?). Many hours spent creating the 35 minutes we see. I'm particularly impressed by how good that initial hammer forming must have been, to get the edges to clean up so well.
"Boring heads are tedious" and visa versa! Interesting that you are able to solder the same pieces in multiple sessions -- no fear of desoldering the earlier joints? Very good.
Aaaaahhh Poutine something that the American cuisine has been sleeping on for YEARS!!! God Bless I was born in Canada
well now it has a little bit of character! lol loving the longer video, would love to see more long form videos!
What a great video. You make silver soldering look like a science and not a black art. Thank you.
The most valuable learning I had from drilling and tapping copper was the amount I needed to pay to replace said drills and taps :)
Every time you make a new series it becomes my favorite on your channel !
But I think this is going to be the most exciting build series I'll ever watch on UA-cam. And I'm glad you still show processes you've shown and talked about before like silver soldering, I learn something new each time and it really helps the info stick, I don't spend as much time as I'd like making things and I watch your videos when I'm eating or working but these constant refreshers are really handy of what to keep in mind when I am working on a project.
I have to agree. I've been watching MrCrispen build his engine, but Quinn is so much faster. I'll be here for the duration of the build and start up.
Hi Quinn
Building steam locomotives is a real hoot. There is no satisfaction like running and riding behind an engine that YOU built. I don't know if this has been mentioned, but a real handy little trinket when soldering is a lazy Susan. Just a cheap one from the hardware store. Put an aluminum or steel disc on it and then some fire brick. Put your work piece on it, and when soldering you can revolve it to get even heat all around. This would have been handy when you were soldering the fire door ring.
Happy Model Building
Jack
I have only watched you for a short while, but thank-you for reminding me of the basic skills I was taught back i the 1960's. Some I remember myself but a lot are shaking up my stroke damaged memory. I'm hoping to get back in to it shortly. I am quietly designing/building a free build multilabel drive logging locomotive/train built back in the late 1800's if I don't get side tracked. I have only seen photo's of it.
Years ago when I was at trade school, my welding teacher reminded us of the dangers of grinding without eye protection. His motto was, "Every time you grind or drill without eye protection you're one time closer to losing an eye."
Last week, I was chiseling a bearing race off a hub and a piece of it flew off and into my chin with such force that it lodged in the skin causing profuse bleeding for about 10 mins. A pair of precision tweezers and no harm done. Time lost on the job about 15mins. I had glasses on (I can't see without them but we won't worry about that).
Imagine if that was *your* eye.
I found this channel a few days ago.
I am so impressed by the content I've seen.
Heck yea! Let's go!!!!! Update time!!!!
It all coming together at the end of the video is really satisfying ^^
Oh wow, the mirror was a heart stopper, Just before you said about it, but as long as the graphic was there, my mind was already at "hold on" and then "have I misunderstood, or did Q mis-speak?" thankfully you told us, but that was a nasty little moment for sure. Glad you found you could still continue after all. It will make your build so obviously unique too - well, probably (I doubt you will be alone in having it happen).😉 Be well.🤞
Hi, enjoying your videos (as usual). I just read your commenting policy and couldn't find the like button for it. Consider this a press of the said missing button. 🙂
Great build! Treat yourself to a cheap “silver and deming” drill set (1/2 in reduced shank drills from 1/2-1) save the boring head for when you need it!
Some annual cutters and an arbor to suite them may be a better choice for a small mill as they require less torque to cut and you will be unlikely to be drilling any great depth on such a machine.
I have no intention of ever trying to make a model steam locomotive, but I'm finding this series very entertaining and might learn a few tips and techniques that are applicable to other projects.
An old trick I learned for drilling copper is to use milk for a cutting fluid. It stinks, but it works. Something about the proteins. Lard is also useful.
Another great video! I'm sure I'll never build a locomotive, but it's fun to watch.
Very cool Quinn !! This is quite the hobby shop project 👍👍
We’ve done a few tub plates at work for loco renovations. These were made out of 25mm thick copper plate. Formed into shape. Id Imagine it’s much more labour intensive forming that size stuff 😂
Great progress, and fun to watch. One of my shop rules is that all tooling is consumable. If you need a shorter reamer, cut a longer one. Works fine for me.
Nice save with the alternate-Universe symmetry issue! One day Real Soon Now I'm going to be hammer-forming some copper and silver-soldering the joint for use in a microwave antenna. Seeing your success gives me hope that it is possible for me to do it without messing up. I'm going to mess it up though, I just know!
I use water soluble cutting oil when machining copper. It seems to work well, and cleans up easily.
32:42 - I have to mention my appreciation of alliteration in your superior sentence!
p.s. There's something poetic in the timestamp for this being slightly sequential as well!
Couldn't do that intro better myself!
Your boiler is coming along a treat thanks so much for showing us all the technics you are using, very educational Cheers.
Another brill teaching vid Quinn. I was surprised when you cut down the reamer, no mention of Sure Shank Redemption 😂. Not that it matters, could you put another fitting in the right side and use the other fitted with a blanking plug? Loved it, broken drills an all. Stay well.
Some good advice for silver soldering in this one, heating the solder is the mistake many make meaning the solder melts before the metal is hot enough causing poor wicking of the solder into the joint.
Hi Quinn
I have binged watched many of your videos like the ones on the engines and boilers.
I really enjoy that you tell it like (the parts flies across the room carrying the vice with it) way it is.
I have very much enjoyed your fixture hacks. I loved the bar that you used in the big steam engine, a great idea because as you pointed out that engine's all about the center of that bore.
The steam engines and boiler projects have been fun. But I also like your videos on tooling like the machinist jacks and using purpose built fixtures.
So just dropping by to say HI. That and keep up the fun work, I love your sense of humor. I love the steam engine chugging mantra that you were reciting as you were chopping off the reamer at the start of this video.
Thank you for this series - great watching. (And thank you for saving us from the language when the left/right penny dropped.😉)
Best approach to drilling copper with small bits (you know it all but...) ; lots of oil, cobalt bit, ideally the drill bit is a bit dull, annealed copper and lastly peck at the copper. Many stop starts.
The swarf in the hole tends to grab the bit, so blow out swarf periodically. I make kitchen knives and
always charge a premium for copper bolsters. Lastly- routing wood goes counter clockwise or the grain tears.
I enjoy your sense of humor! Thank you!!!
I have done a little machining but I am a woodworker not a machinist. I am also a model railroader. I am really enjoying this build and I am happy the UA-cam algorithm suggested it shortly after the first video was released. I am looking forward to the whole build.
Love this project! My Maternal Grandpa (who's pic I use here) was a fireman on the GM&O railroad for many years, I remember being in awe of the massive steam engine sights, sounds and smells, as a toddler. I worked in industrial (soy processing mill) maintenance for decades and have many varied skills, but girl, your ability to learn, and honestly, pass on your experiences is quite impressive!
Can hardly wait to see and hear that thing eat fire and huff massive gulps of steam!!,
Thank You, and keep learning/educating!
I've had a drill bit break on me like that, and the broken piece went precisely into my eyeball. Seems to be their preferred target.
No harm done, other than a week of looking like the least cool pirate of all time, and I learned to love face shields then.
Love thy job so much we do it twice, always entertaining to watch.
Really excellent work on both the video and the boiler.
Thanks John! 😊
So pleasurable to watch you do work I might sort of understand, but am not at all ready to try.
Thank you Quinn. I love your videos and I have learned a ton about my limitations.
This is really exciting being able to come with you on this journey. It's very interesting, and I love how you also show the mistakes you make along the way. Thank you for taking us along with you and letting us learn along side you. 😁
22:30 My trick to make big holes in flat material is to use the bolt circle function of the DRO. Drill small holes as close together as possible. With soft materials you can cut the small burrs that conecting the inner material with an utility knife. The finish can be done with a boring head. But it works also fine to plunge an other bolt circle with a big endmill. With a big number of holes it gets nearly as clean as using the boring head.
Funny you should mention that- I do that exact thing in the next video. 😬
I Oooooo'ed out loud at that mirror moment. Love these videos. They're part of my Sunday ritual here in N.Z. Thanks heaps.
Same, Quinn is my Sunday morning coffee companion here in Aus.
Thanks Quinn
Thank goodness that the mirrored image didn't hurt your project!!! I've been burned by that myself, in electronics, you have the protoboard flipped over and then all the connections are backwards... Sigh! Oh.. I have one nitpick, while the standard metric duck for reference is helpful, I use the standard imperial duck myself and conversion is hard because of all the math... Anyway, I'm looking forward to seeing the next video in this series, your videos have become part of my standard Saturday routine and I enjoy videos so much!
The reason the firedoor ring is made that way might be for authenticity, assuming the real full sized version was made similarly. I also imagine this would be cheaper for material cost than turning a bunch of bronze or copper into chips to make a solid ring
Amazing. And that sheet metal machine looks awesome.
Now it’s in the metal I can see how this works, so complex but it’s going to steam well.
This not something I thought I'd ever say, but this steam engine build is really exciting. I'm absolutely loving it and can't wait for the next part. Thank you.
My heart leaps for joy whenever I see a new video is available!
Fascinating Quinn! Very nicely done once again.
I continue to hope for Sprocket cameos though! 😁
It's funny as when you were making that I thought knowing my luck if I were doing that I would mark it all out from the wrong side. Then... 😵💫 It looks great, I've never been brave enough to try a boiler so really enjoyed watching!
Skillful machining, soldering and hammering of Copper parts. They are really not easy.
Oops, meant to mention..I have found that when drilling tapping etc., a steady flow of a high evaporation rate cleaner, i.e. brake parts or electrical parts cleaners work great for tiny stuff, even in s.s., and for larger operations a foaming glass/multi-surface spray-cleaner works great, stays put and wipes/rinses off with no oily residue as it is soap & water based (be sure to dry tooling well when finished).
I’ve built nearly ten 3/4” scale boilers I always use steam oil as cutting oil for copper then clean with laquer thinner, never had any issues with soldering, nice work!
Hi Quinn, its looking very good at this point. With me being a retired Marine Engineer I am very much up on steam engines but not loco engines. It is very interesting for me to see the boiler coming together and especially the water boss surrounding the furnace. You are doing a brilliant job as always and I am pleased your little mistakes have not forced you to start from the beginning. This build is very interesting, and I look forward to the next one. Stay safe.
Cooling with isopropanol or ethanol works wonders when machining copper and aluminium. And it leaves no resodues when the alkohol evaporates :)
Never question good luck.
I'm pickled tink watching this one
Your explanation and walkthrough of the silver solder & flux transformations was fantastic! Thanks for all the detail!
Tip: For Brass and copper & Aluminum drilling.
keep a set of drills at a 100 degree angle, also I tend to put a back rake on my drill bits for drilling brass and copper to help stop it from grabbing, most drill bits are set at 118 degree angle and for harder metals 135 degree is good
but soft metal don't work great on those angles.
So have the correct drill bits for the type of metal.
As you say about safety, i was using a industrial vertical bandsaw the other week and one of the teeth pinged of and got me at the side of my glasses and stuck in my cheek, so even machines that look harmless enough because you cant see sparks is worse in my books.
Really interesting watch. I do lots of hammering and silver soldering on brass as an instrument repair tech. Seeing it in a different application is interesting. The other thing I've been told about all soldering: heat the bigger/thicker part.
Looks great so far! I can totally relate to that ‘I just did that backwards’ feeling. Looking forward to seeing how it turns out.
10/10 would watch again :)
Hazard fraught has a 9/16"-1" drill bit set that is decent / cheap. If you had a friend grind them down 0.010 +/- and use those for rough drilling it might help. I wish i had a friend that could do that. Good luck and great work.