Foundation Ring and Backhead! Pennsylvania A3 Switcher, Part 11
Вставка
- Опубліковано 15 вер 2024
- This episode on Blondihacks, I’m joining the firebox to my A3 boiler! Exclusive videos, drawings, models & plans available on Patreon!
/ quinndunki
Buy Blondihacks stuff in my store! www.blondihacks...
Have questions? Try my FAQ! blondihacks.co...
Here are links for many of the tools that you see me using:
(I earn small commissions on these links)
• Shrum Solutions face mill: www.shrumsolut...
• 6mm CCMT Boring Bar | Shrum Solutions: www.shrumsolut...
• D. Gray kits for the home shop : d-gray-draftin...
• Rose Index : rosenthalprodu...
• Mill clamping set : amzn.to/2xc9vqr
• Chamfering Tool : amzn.to/2IJsAUs
• Zero Flute Chamfering Tool : amzn.to/3bmPLPe
• NOGA Deburring set : amzn.to/2Jv3RlW
• NOGA Reversible Deburring Tool : amzn.to/2X07WX1
• Knurling Tool : amzn.to/2FblXb1
• Tapered Reamer : amzn.to/2Gn0b3G
• Chucking Reamer set : amzn.to/3odnVvh
• Nicholson files : amzn.to/2VcHkls
• Nicholson needle files : amzn.to/2BDt7ph
• 1-2-3 Blocks : amzn.to/2EvAsGq
• Dormer center drills : amzn.to/2X7U6ij
• 6” Divider : amzn.to/2GTncM3
• NOGA arm with magnetic base : amzn.to/2U2bGTI
• NOGA arm Big Boy : amzn.to/381acji
• Collet Block set : amzn.to/2UkF1vZ
• DeWalt drill and driver kit : amzn.to/2Gp6IeJ
• DeWalt portable band saw : amzn.to/2U4Mhsw
• DeWalt band saw blades : amzn.to/2H2J4X0
• High Speed Steel parting blade : amzn.to/2YcdYBv
• High Speed Steel blade holder : amzn.to/2JgO0IK
• High Speed Steel tool blanks : amzn.to/2H1qoqr
• Grizzly Pre-ground tool bits : amzn.to/2H4yr5z
• AXA tool holders : amzn.to/2V1gOHl
• Quick Change Toolpost : amzn.to/310mshq
• Norton oil stone kit : amzn.to/2EbLEH3
• Norton small sharpening stone: amzn.to/2PQwex9
• End mills : amzn.to/2U76Vsf
• Milling machine starter pack : amzn.to/2tA2M4e
• Forceps : amzn.to/2Ww5dFT
• Mill Parallels : amzn.to/2lfW82i
• GearWrench ratcheting tap & die set : amzn.to/2lMwZfV
• Step bits : amzn.to/2q54yfJ
• Starrett automatic center punch : amzn.to/2DCI7C9
• Budget transfer punch set : amzn.to/2yfDgHi
• Precision shim stock : amzn.to/34lJlME
• Jet 2-ton press : amzn.to/2SLas1s
• Gear Wrench locking puller : amzn.to/2ubBV1W
• Starrett tap wrenches : amzn.to/35jxM9e
• Goldenrod oiler : amzn.to/2TTS0En
• Acid brushes : amzn.to/36qWCo5
• Cratex (Bright Boy) block : amzn.to/38fNm72
• Scotchbrite deburring wheel : amzn.to/3ks0P2V
• Fein Turbo I shop vac : amzn.to/2vXpech
• Machinist’s scale : amzn.to/2Zk6oVj
• Mixed metric/imperial dial caliper : amzn.to/2KKARYY
• Mitutoyo dial caliper : amzn.to/2IMIxJE
• Mitutoyo micrometer set : amzn.to/2GtICPx
• Mitutoyo depth micrometer : amzn.to/33M8aSH
• Mitutoyo edge finder : amzn.to/2G36omq
• Mitutoyo dial indicator : amzn.to/2H09gBr
• Mitutoyo dial test indicator : amzn.to/2E5lRQw
• Coaxial indicator : amzn.to/3bbBEwE
• Mitutoyo telescoping gauge set : amzn.to/2Z6houn
• Fowler dial bore gauge : amzn.to/2KQJNf2
• Fowler inside micrometer : amzn.to/2TVm7Jo
• Starrett 98-6 Level : amzn.to/38K7lMD
• Grizzly Height Gage : amzn.to/2PDTr7i
• Thread Checker : amzn.to/2CpvAUU
• The Amateur’s Lathe book : amzn.to/3jIYlwe
• Anchor Lube : amzn.to/2H9X6oQ
• Boeshield T-9 : amzn.to/2TCE0wB
• Brownell’s Oxpho Blue : amzn.to/2YhZTmR
• JAX Metal Blackener : amzn.to/2MVe8wj
• Dykem layout fluid : amzn.to/2U7KQts
• Dykem dauber : amzn.to/2uoXtbm
• Tap Magic cutting oil : amzn.to/3j8kNnR
• WD-40 : amzn.to/2GYV8rY
• Super 77 Spray Glue : amzn.to/2YScxZl
• Loctite 603 : amzn.to/2EYsPbi
• Loctite 242 : amzn.to/2RIt3sQ
• Way oil : amzn.to/38Gl9qW
• High pressure grease : amzn.to/2GloHTd
• CMD Extreme Pressure lube : amzn.to/36JPNy9
• Dry graphite lube : amzn.to/2U0YEZH
• 3-in-1 oil : amzn.to/36in43e
• Kroil : amzn.to/2uCf1RL
• Evaporust : amzn.to/36NSkII
• Brasso : amzn.to/3buE6yL
Commenting policy : blondihacks.co...
As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases.
I have no clue about boilders, but thats a migthy impressive assembly that you are putting together there, Enjoy every weeks episode :D
Thanks Stefan! 😄
My goodness, what intricate fitting this step required. Your fastidiousness has paid off again, and those complex joints look quite sound, indeed!
Thanks Ron! 😁
I am not a native speaker of the english language, but I appreciate your dry humor and your humble bias. 🖖😉
"...That was not elegant but I think I got away with it..."
Summarised my life, right there!
It's called the mud ring because when you make steam, you end up precipitating out solids. Those end up in bottom of the boiler and looks a heck of a lot like mud. In a big boiler made of steel and cast iron, you end up with a lot of rust down there as well.
This exactly.
There you go. I previously thought it was named by fans of 90s/2000s progressive metal band Mudvayne.
Which is why, as Dallens points out, you should only use distilled water to keep the mud problem to the minimum.
@@Dallen9 in some places they had collection troughs between the rails that would catch rain, then the tender had a scoop to scoop up the water. As a power plant guy where ultra pure water is the way......
@@DavidVerch That is crazy. No RO skid back in the days?
I'm enough of a "casual" "distant-observer fan" of the channel to know: that cold open was *chefs kiss*
The more you practice the soldering the luckier you get !
You could apply that to golf as well.
After that intro, I just wanted to send love your way... that seemed painful, both literally and figuratively.
Hopefully worth it, though; seems like this project is coming right along! And hey, you've got Stefan interested... that's pretty cool. :)
I learned the hard way Sharpie repells automotive and house paint. I had some marks on sheet metal when making panels for my 31 Model A Ford. Well I had to sand off the primer and acetone to remove the Sharpie
I also learned this the hard way. 😺
Micro tip (and just the tip!) - when you're trying to knock out that last 1 or 2 thou in soft metal (opening up that clearance hole in your case) under power like with your drill, run the bit backwards. It's not 100%, but stops it from grabbing, ripping and pulling itself through the hole.
Your courage, Ms Dunki, to take on difficult and complex challenges, and your persistence and resolve in overcoming EVERY problem and difficulty, are enormously inspiring. Of course you are also very smart and skilled, so you've got that going for you too.
"FIDDELY BITS -101 (RIGHT HAND OPPOSITE)
MANY REQUIRED ON -......" (LOL!)
Funny that so many of us use common terminology! Ah yes "character building"! We are all definitely characters (LOL)! Beautiful work on a very complex project! Thank you for sharing!
I'm really glad the little copper shim didn't do a whole lot of sliding out and disappearing into the darkness!
Thank you again for providing evening (or othertime) entertainment for us!
That wasn’t just nail-biting, that was screw and bolt-biting!! Very nice!
This opening is the most suspenseful 10-ish seconds I have ever seen on YT. I feel an ulcer coming on.
Hey, Quinn. Random person on the internet here. I have an idea. Something that I’d like to see. A lot of the UA-cam machinists talk to seem each other so I think this might be a welcome concept. I would love to see folks such as your self and fellow content creators pick a common project and try to make that project at each others shops. Give a differnt shop a test drive. It’s an excuse to take some trips and visit each other. But what I’m most interested in comparing notes on everyone’s shops. See what good ideas and workflow felt like in someone else’s work space. I love watching you guys and getting ideas for my own shop. If it’s a dumb idea, well, so be it. Wouldn’t be my first. But It’s something that I would love to watch and listen to a big conversation amongst each other afterwards.
Great idea!
Or to be evil and model the real world, give them all the same prints, tell them each which parts to make and then when all the work is done see if it fits and works. I know, evil, but that is what I am OK. In a kind and gentle way of course.
Shop Swap! I love this idea.
I would never had though making a scale train boiler could be so edge of the seat! I’ve built 1/12 scale 5 ton military trucks from brass and copper and know how hard it is to solder a joint next to an already finished joint. You make it look easy, great job as always!
I look forward to every video you put out, can't wait until you finish this locomotive and power it up for the first time.👍😁👍
Glad to see you using your Machinist Clamps Quinn🙂
They’re my favourite clamps by far! Use them every chance I get.
You’ve just solved one of the greatest mysteries for me about steam locomotives! I’ve always wondered why the smoke coming out of the smokestack pulsates with the cylinders. It’s the blowpipe feeding steam into the smokestack!
Not quite. The blower is controlled from a valve in the cab and blows smoothly. That pulsation you've noticed is from an alternate way of drafting the fire where the steam from the cylinders is blown up the chimney at each exhaust beat. It is a common design feature for the exhaust pipe (better know as the blast pipe) to be surrounded by a ring of jets forming the blower stream.
Old boiler inspector here… The main purpose of the water jacket surrounding the firebox in a locomotive boiler is to provide an easily cleanable low point for dissolved or suspended solids in the water to accumulate. Without mud legs that muddy precipitate would collect around the tubes, usually at the tube sheet and drastically reduce heat transfer, promote corrosion of the thin fire tubes and lead to cracks in the tube sheet. There are always handhole clean outs at each bottom corner of the mud leg. There’s a small benefit of added heat transfer surface as well.
The puffs of steam from the smokestack are actually the exhaust stroke of the drive pistons channeled to the smokestack as blondiehacks said to induce draft. Many locomotives have an hourglass shape to their smokestack that creates a Venturi (a convergent-divergent nozzle) that greatly accelerates the speed of the air out of the boiler.
I'm a boiler tech, not a train head, but we call the lowest point of a boiler the mud lug because, well...open up a plug at the end of the season to find out!
Its the train butthole
all the insoluble material collects there. looks brownish and ugly.
That's what I was thinking. I've seen some of the "stuff" that comes out of the bottom of a boiler.
It can be silky smooth sometimes, and makes a great dye for everything that you don't want to get dirty.
Essentially, all boilers are distillers. Makeup water is a necessary evil, because new water means new sediment and dissolved oxygen which destroys a system. On larger boilers (100hp and up), if the mud legs aren't blown down regularly, the mud eventually turns into something like semi-solid concrete. That's when we hand the chisel and grinder to the apprentice.
It's why full size locomotives have to go through a 31-day inspection that includes a boiler-wash:
CFR 49, Part230:
230.60 Time of washing.
(a) Frequency of washing. All boilers shall thoroughly be washed as often as the water conditions require, but not less frequently than at each 31 service day inspection. The date of the boiler wash shall be noted on the FRA Form No. 1 or FRA Form No. 3. (See appendix B of this part.)
Wow! You made a TON of progress here! That's some big hard stuff you accomplished and made it look pretty easy. Getting those pieces of the foundation ring to fit properly is a lot harder than you made it look. And soldering all those large subassemblies together is a big challenge. But you did it well and quickly! It's great to watch you work, Quinn!
Now just the front tube sheet to go! Can't wait to see your hydro-test! 🙂
You did great too! Kozo really zips past the difficulty of that in the book. 😅
Now my Saturday morning is complete!
To make a easy template for this mud-ring: place the assembly on a photocopier (copy machine) and in a few seconds you have a exact 100% scale 2D-drawing that you can lasercut/file out.
Tip for next time.
Actually a photocopier doesn’t guarantee a 100 percent duplication, in fact I’ve found it usually isn’t. But you can do the same process with a flat scanner, then adjust the printout percentage until it matches the part.
With all that filing, I wonder if there is some machine that can help automate part of that. Perhaps you could even build that yourself (out of a kit with cast iron parts perhaps) n the channel? It would be really neat to follow along with such a process as well!
I see what you did there!
Blasphemy! No such tool exists. 😜
I am sure you are to be congratulated for your hard work and patience. I think you could build a full size locomotive with the same amount of effort. Thanks for the video keep on keeping on.
I endlessly admire your persistence. 😊
I keep saying this.
Eleven episodes already? Wow!
I got my back-ordered Hiraoko book (Rio Grande K-27, vol. 1) on Mon, and have spent much of the week poring through it. It's a giant project, his magnum opus I guess
I saw that opener with the pin vise and immediately thought "that, right there, is a more patient and tougher person than I am because that is a masochistic way to make a hole in metal."
We should pin your reply?
@@oldfarthacks Yes but let us learn from the video and use an electric drill and not a pin vise!
Phew .. that intro has me squirming "don't break the drill, don't break the drill"!
Every week I'm anxious to see the project from last week continued, and, well, every week I remember there are two projects. I think it says a lot that I'm never disappointed seeing either project.
With all the testing you've done already, you've bought yourself some insurance on the future pressure testing having a good chance of succeeding. Love this series. Thanks for the video.
wow, what a rollercoaster of emotions this build is!
I know right?
Sitting on egg shells hopping it all seals up for you so close to the end you worked so hard😮
Its exciting to see you getting near the end of the boiler Quinn. As expected your progress is spectacular. Soon will be time to get started on the running gear and I am looking forward to that. Thank you for sharing with us.
This is starting to look like a locomotive! I actually love the dark black oxide layer (or whatever) after the assemblies get heated. Looks very steam locomotive -esque. I suppose paint will look even nicer, though.
Apart from the back head (and even that is not certain) all of this boiler will be hidden under lagging and cladding; you'll never see it.
Very nicely done.
This is getting more and more exciting!
Thanks, and Meow to Sprocket.
Getting so close! I can't thank you enough for all of the explanation through the journey, both information on the way a steam locomotive works, but also how you had problems and how you solved them. Thank you Quinn! 😁😁😁
I saw the intro and thought "Oh boy, a pin vise..." and remembered the last time I tried to use one, *many* years ago, which was the result of me buying some circuit boards that hadn't been drilled. More time than I care to think about later, I had one hell of a blister on my thumb and not even one whole board was finished, out of a batch of them. Never again! :-)
Looking great. I am excited for you. Thank you for sharing the boiler build!! It has been quite the educational series.
Joe
Tip for you on that solder joint that opened up on you. Stuff a bit of copper wool or solder wick - the braided copper used in electronics industry to remove solder from a component being removed from a circuit board - into the gap you're trying to re-solder. It does a great job of capturing solder and the surface tension from all of the little bits of copper in the braid will prevent the solder from dripping out during the next reheat. Of course the ideal scenario is to never need this trick but at the point you're at now it may save your bacon.
Big sigh of relief. Edge of the seat soldering. Great video Thank you
'Mud Ring' because sediment or mud (depending on the cleanliness of your water source) would collect down there. Lower drums on water tube boilers are traditionally known as 'Mud Drums'. Love your channel and videos btw.
This was a very challenging part of the build. Came out really good.
Well done Quinn you had me on the edge of my seat with the complex joints Cheers.
So we know the drill about holes, how boring, more so by hand. LOL And yes, your pressure testing got you bent. 😘
As you know, the sneaking up process is also called inletting. You see it on guns quite a bit where a part has to be a perfect fit inside another.
This is quite the interesting series of videos. I look forward to the completion of the boiler, then you can get really busy making all the other bits to make the whole engine.
I learn so much about the minutiae of fabrication from this channel and your straightforward explanations for the choices you make. Thank you!
Trains are AWESOME! They are in my family’s work history, My pa and g-pa were railroad engineers, train mechanic and machinists for Union Pacific Railroad. Great G-pa was a brake man. They would have gotten a kick out of watching this project of yours.
Maybe you could adapt one of Sir Henry Rawlinson's wood magnets to attract copper?
Quinn- I have been a scale model railroader for over 40 years. My grandfather was a master machinist for the Santa Fe Railroad, earning his apprenticeship in 1913. During my lifespan I have done a lot of soldering of brass locomotives in HO and Sn3 scale. Early on I used a small jewelers torch and then progressed to resistance soldering. In projects MUCH smaller that what you are doing you can imagine what happens when you overheat and all the OTHER parts start to fall off! I would point out that I was NOT trying to make a pressure vessel! This was a process to fabricate a "boiler" from scratch and attach many, many brass castings and parts to make the complete locomotive. I had a lot of friends who were quite simply master craftsmen who could totally build a scale locomotive right down to the exact number of rivets (hence the term "rivet counters"). Again, the model locomotive was powered by an electric motor and not live steam. The "live steamers" (a fraternity that you are joining) are in a class all their own and I'm sure you have seen many examples of their fine work. In most cases, they appear 100% true -to-prototype and perform flawlessly. From similar 0-6-0 "shifters" to massive compound locomotives that are capable of pulling a string of passenger cars (with human riders) along a mile of track. Unfortunately most of these folks are getting up in years and very few young people are interested in developing the skills necessary to accomplish such projects. Thank you for your fine videos and for keeping this craft alive!
Great video - can’t wait to see the final product. I’m not a machinist, but I thought the new die filer would make quick(er) work of the foundation ring.
It sure would have 😁
Sharpie mark must be the Chuck Norris of the marking out world!
Great work. Mostly the stuff you do is inspiring and makes me think 'I could probably do that, now I have seen how', but this is quite daunting - not sure it would ever be within my compass. Hats off for all the intricate fitting, patience and skilled hands can accomplish a lot (well, your hands anyway). Thanks for keeping this moving along, when you started I thought it might be a 3 year project, with an episode every couple of months, but you are making good progress on what seems to me the hardest part (though I need to wait until the end to know if that's true - plenty of challenges to come, I'm sure).
Nerve-racking indeed, it was a lot of fiddley work and soldering... I hope it passes the pressure test!
Yay!! It's Blondihacks time!!!
I wonder if you had put paper over the whole thing and rubbed your thumb or finger around the does of the boxes if you could have had an accurate pressing of it to cut and fit your pieces to, like when making a gasket, if you know what i mean... anyway, great job, i really love watching as you get these projects together and hearing your logical solutions to different problems that arise.
Wow! Your soldering skills are fantastic! The more you do, the better you get. You have got it pretty much mastered! Love ALL your videos. Still looking for my home hobby lathe. I really want to go with an older Atlas, Southbend, etc than buying new but we will see. Thanks for "push" to learn new skills!
From filing I though immediately if this is changing to a channel like ClickSpring. Nope, back to milling immediately.
Still, back to filing much more than my patience would ever take and hand drilling. I'd not take risks at that point either, not after all the work it has been so far.
I think the series has involved quite a variety of different skills needed. It has been quite interesting so far (and I'm eiger to see what it will bring later on too).
This is looking very impressive , I know for sure now , I’m not gonna attempt this in this lifetime 😃🍻
Man this is really looking like a steam engine boiler now! Very exciting. Also, i get some sympathy anxiety from these videos. Youve put so much time into this and there's a lot of things that can go wrong if you arent careful. I'd probably be losing some sleep if i was making this.
Templating (at least roughy) can be done with cardstock, and I’ve used the additive method to reasonable effect on a couple of projects (albeit on larger parts than this); but I found an interesting iterative subtractive method which might be one for the toolbox.
If you run your scriber in the centre of a ring (a nicely concentric washer, or a small bearing race for example) you can offset the profile you’re trying to match by the wall thickness. This gives a great first approximation curve to work to with minimal waste - just remember that it’s an offset, not a translation… not that I ever scrapped parts by forgetting or anything…
C.A.D. - Cardboard Aided Design. :)
Pressure is on for the next vid, cross your fingers folks! Nice vid Quinn!
By the way, congratulations on the sub count, quite impressive, cheers!
I love the journey you take us on with these projects
Belzona. I am a retired US Navy engineer and we used Belzona extensively throughout our boilers and steam propulsion plants. Not because it was the best way, but because it was the ONLY way. Sometimes our steam generating equipment is 40+ years old and there was no longer any manufacturer support. We used Belzona to fix cracks in our boilers, deaerated feed tanks, steam turbines, heat exchanger tube sheets, steam valves and so on. It is kind of cheating, but if no one will see it, who cares. A bit pricy, but the small scale you are working with, one 2-part kit will probably last you the rest of your life.
Not gonna lie, that was nerve wracking to watch.
I appreciate your adding the mistakes. Makes me feel better about how I screw up while working. Thanks again.
it was happily like watching clickspring when you fit the copper pieces
Quinn the mud ring is call that becouse all of the crud sinks down in the boiler to the loest point hence it is called the mud ring
Quinn: (prepares a project for two years making sure to practise a lot of the skills on smaller projects to learn and reades THE BOOK twice)
Also quinn: I'm shocked at how well this joint is due.
Quinn, give yourselve some credit ;-)
Gives a whole new appreciation as to the skill of the boiler maker
Great job there Quinn
They call it the mud ring because that is where all the impurities in the water and any loose corrosion, A.K.A. mud, settles to. Ideally, when the blowdown valve is open, all the mud is blown out, but manual cleanup is needed when boiler repairs are performed.........
Drill it by hand you said, it wont take that lo.... .HAHAH... love your openings :D
Great work Quinn, I admire your patience and insistence on absolute accuracy.
Nice job 👍👍👍 always remember were doing this cause it's fun WERE HAVING FUNNN !!!! 😂😂😂
its pretty cool to watch you gain skills and confidence with the boiler fitting and soldering as you go. Loving this series and all of the steam!
Wow! Some of those difficult solder joints look really good! Getting to be a pro at this.
Some very fine work Quinn. Great attention to detail. Cheers Nobby
I like to start the hole with the pin vise, and when it's locationally established enough, move to the dremel
Here's my armchair crazy idea for how to drill that tiny hole: Build a right-angle adapter for the milling machine head.
The mud ring is where the minerals that are left from the water are supposed to collect to be blown down
A very easy way to mark curves like that is with a divider. Held 90º from the part you want to cut, just follow along the ‘target’ piece and it will give a very accurate shape/distance. Hard to describe, but works really well.
the mud ring; is a low spot for the collection of minerals in the water, a good engineer will open the blow downs to help clear those contaminants; there is an inspection,I believe it's monthly on steam engines where the "wash out plugs" are removed and the boiler is flushed out. the railroads added water chemicals to hold down some of that sediment. But it was a constant battle
Phew! I was tense the whole episode. Nice job!
wow I've just discovered your channel , I'm excited to go back and watch all the progress so far , I'm currently building a 5 inch gauge electric loco, that I should really do a video on 😅 , the boiler looks great , coming on nicely👍
Have you tried silver solder paste along with rods? It is silver dispersed in flux, so you have silver in place and ready to melt before you even apply heat. Of course it will not fill all the gaps by itself, so some more silver is needed (and rod will be drawn into the joint thanks to layer of silver from the paste).
Oh that little shim you added made me anxious... What if it falls, what if it leaks... 😅
Absolutely marvelous!
I have always wanted to build a steam engine, but now that I see the precision involved, I'm gonna pass. Amazing work!
Brava 🥇
From Italy
I look forward to these installments, always nice to see your progress! You may learn from the experience, and I learn from your adjustments! - suggestion? In addition to paper for templates, which of course is suspect being a forestry by-product, "Tree cooties"! another very good template material is made from used printer support, 3D printer support. The transparent plastic sheet is very stable, durable and transparent.
Thank you for your postings, efforts in bringing these videos, these teachable moments, and for being a good egg!
Thank you
Thank you
Thank you
Back in 1962 my small center punch from the Starrett set was dull. Ordering a replacement I chucked the old in the Gorton cutter grinder an spun a 25° included angle to repoint it - with a loop I could pick up the intersection of 2 scribed lines. It's detent could be deepened/widened with it's replacement.
Did tons of silver soldering of dowel pins in crs 'i60 - '62, keep clean and fluxed.
If you mix yellow ocher with a small amount of flux and put it on larger joints the solder will not flow out of your joints . But if you get any of it on your new joint it will not solder. I learned that doing silver work ,which mistakes get very expensive quick .
Quinn, I hate to tell you this but all this sneaking up on a shape reminds me a lot of woodworking...
Another great job Quinn.👍👍👍
Fantastic job, can't wait for the next episode!
Also there's this thing I use called technoflux, it's a thermal paste. I use it to cover the soldered joints I want to protect. I work with jewelry so I deal with a lot of small easy to overheat parts and it's a lifesaver.
Hair raising stuff, but most everything went swimmingly! Congrats!
Almost pressure test time? Can't wait to see this thing work. My own steel boiler had some leaks during its pressure test but I think it's easier to weld those shut than it is to solder leaks on a copper boiler. Good luck!
Great video Quinn , really enjoy all your videos