Great progress as always gents. I always pick up little tips for you all so thanks for keeping on with the content for all stages of the projects. Hope you all have a great week on both jobs 👍🏻🏴
Very strange, this comment I made was about a completely different video about neighbours putting up a cat fencing. My apologies guys, love your work. I’ll amend my comment. Sorry.
I thought mat and ritchie had been sniffing the plaster powder at the beginning. You made it look easy but you've got to know your mustard when boarding out. Well done guys, brownie points to Richie for helping the mother in law. 👍👍
I love the precision and thought that you guys put into every aspect of the job. I used to work with some good builders years ago, where the same type of planning and trial & error measuring went into ensuring a quality finish. It took longer and a lot of the skill & care ends up hidden behind the finish. But the pride in doing a quality job is worth it. Even if it will only ever be seen again in decades time when we are all pushing up daisies. I used to enjoy rip outs on very old buildings before a renovation, finding signs of quality workmanship from decades earlier and the occasional scribbled names and dates hidden away (versus the 1960s onwards tat that became the all too frequent standards in some modern houses). Keep up the good work guys, entertaining and edumakational.
It’s meant to be summer here now despite our extra clothing and rain outside. We certainly wouldn’t attempt this in the winter and it’s not open for long only a week or so 👍🏻
Great video again. Question, why don't you use Jackoboard instead of ordinary plasterboard for a bit of extra insulation? And would you use Jackboard on kitchen walls? I guess the fire safety rating is a bit of a concern compared to plasterboard.
When you were speaking about Matt double dabbing the steels at the start of the video what did he use to stick the first layer of plasterboard to the steel, an adhesive like Gripfill or ordinary board adhesive for dry lining ?
Quick question mate....is it OK to do the window as you did there ....the joint line was on the edge of the window. I was told to avoid that as a DIYer....I.e go past the window line and then cut the board ...?
It’s fine for windows that is more for door openings and mostly for timber stud walls as you will see cracking directly above the door frame line. This is mostly due to the pressure on the frame fixed to the stud work as the door opens and closes. 👍🏻
We overlaid the door wall within the kitchen area to bridge the stud wall to brick wall to stop cracking from swinging door. The windows don’t take the same amount of movement it slamming however the window reveal dab will be consistent down the window edge to stop minimal movement. It will always need caulk pre decor as plaster and frame doesn’t match without a hairline crack.
@@Swwilsnot always, if there’s no window it can be more problematic to cut out after for the squareness of reveals and walls. Obviously people have different methods but this is ours.
What is the purpose of the pink sheet rock board under the steel vs. the normal sheet rock? Is it some kind of different fire rating or some other special requirement? On this side of the pond we have a green coated sheet rock for wet areas like bath rooms for extra moisture protection, and a blue coated sheet rock for skim coat plaster applications, as well as the normal greyish coated sheet rock, but I haven't seen a pink version before.
Interesting to see your "dabbing" process on block walls to attach the sheet rock. How well does that hold over time? Is that done to just get a nice flat uniform surface on the finished wall? Can you hang things on the wall with it mounted like that?
Yes this gives you the greatest adherent for plasterboard. It’s a flat surface Pre skim. Some say use an additional mechanical fixing in twine but if you use the correct dab and amount evenly spread over the board that isn’t necessary. We have covered the dab spacing in previous videos. Fixings are dependant of any kind of wall. You use the appropriate type. Always a problem to fix into thermalite blocks so the boards and adhesive actually help more than hinder.
I think what confuses me the most is that people don’t pay attention to the video and comment as soon as they see something they don’t agree with. Plasterboard doesn’t give a solid base to fix to for cabinets etc. plasterboard gets fixed on top of it before plastering.
@@Zeus_1983 for stuff like that we would usually just put blocking in the wall before the drywall. its pat of rough in framing before the drywall goes on
@@Zeus_1983 you would have to sheet the whole wall with ply and THEN drywall. with doing backing in the actual wall then just drywall its more cost effective and faster. im in ontario canada so i expect it to be different but some stuff just puzzles me. then again my cousin lives in british columbia and they do stuff different as well mostly due to cost of getting material to where they live. they do no do brick at all because it costs way too much and they are surrounded by forests and aluminun siding is much cheaper. i think i asked that question before about cost when doing certain things.
The whole point of dry lining is to allow for the passive movement of air to stop stale elements. Your air seal comes from other parts of the construction included in this are windows,doors, cavity closures etc etc
It is a better man to admit mistakes and put right, fabulous job here, as always.
Great progress as always gents. I always pick up little tips for you all so thanks for keeping on with the content for all stages of the projects. Hope you all have a great week on both jobs 👍🏻🏴
Nice to see demarcation between the identical twin ladders with RHJ, (Dickie) Richard Hairy Johnson and MNL, Matthew Nice Legs . Keep it up!
😂👍🏻
Looks absolutely awesome guys, fantastic videos. Extremely helpful to people to know how things are done by the professionals.
Keep it up 👍
Very strange, this comment I made was about a completely different video about neighbours putting up a cat fencing.
My apologies guys, love your work. I’ll amend my comment. Sorry.
No problem at all! Really appreciate your honesty, I've deleted my childish retort, too! Have a great day, mate.
I thought mat and ritchie had been sniffing the plaster powder at the beginning. You made it look easy but you've got to know your mustard when boarding out. Well done guys, brownie points to Richie for helping the mother in law. 👍👍
I love the precision and thought that you guys put into every aspect of the job. I used to work with some good builders years ago, where the same type of planning and trial & error measuring went into ensuring a quality finish. It took longer and a lot of the skill & care ends up hidden behind the finish. But the pride in doing a quality job is worth it. Even if it will only ever be seen again in decades time when we are all pushing up daisies.
I used to enjoy rip outs on very old buildings before a renovation, finding signs of quality workmanship from decades earlier and the occasional scribbled names and dates hidden away (versus the 1960s onwards tat that became the all too frequent standards in some modern houses).
Keep up the good work guys, entertaining and edumakational.
Fabulous progress. You'll be happy with that. The client must be feeling good with the progress too. Good week then.
Brilliant work yet again. Very thorough and well explained. 👌👍
Very satisfying watching the plasterboard going up, well done!
Great Job you guys make it look so easy
well done to Adam and the team for another entertaining week keep up the good work lads 🎉🎉🎉
Good progess, I can't say I enjoy plasterboarding aside from the fact you can make progress quite quickly and get onto more enjoyable jobs.
Another great job nicely done fellas
Thank you for a great video, top quality work lads
Thanks!
Thank you very much Jim 👍🏻
It's nice to get the boards on,that's when you see progress.
Job's coming together now boys 👌👍👍
Really enjoyed your video , thank you
Nice job 👏
Wondering why you’re putting up plaster board before you’re weather tight? Are you not worried about it soaking up moisture??
It’s meant to be summer here now despite our extra clothing and rain outside. We certainly wouldn’t attempt this in the winter and it’s not open for long only a week or so 👍🏻
Is it not necessary to have a continuous band of board adhesive at the head of the dry lining in a refurbishment?
Great video again. Question, why don't you use Jackoboard instead of ordinary plasterboard for a bit of extra insulation? And would you use Jackboard on kitchen walls? I guess the fire safety rating is a bit of a concern compared to plasterboard.
Is the basement wall wet ?
When you were speaking about Matt double dabbing the steels at the start of the video what did he use to stick the first layer of plasterboard to the steel, an adhesive like Gripfill or ordinary board adhesive for dry lining ?
We use normal board adhesive. 👍🏻
hiya hope you all had a good week ? .....
You too Lee thanks for watching. 👍🏻
@@Mr_A_Builders as ever great work
If Matt needs bigger trousers for the dot and dabbing then he's gonna need MC Hammer trousers for the plastering...
😂👍🏻
What's the song at 19:50 please?
Quick question mate....is it OK to do the window as you did there ....the joint line was on the edge of the window. I was told to avoid that as a DIYer....I.e go past the window line and then cut the board ...?
It’s fine for windows that is more for door openings and mostly for timber stud walls as you will see cracking directly above the door frame line. This is mostly due to the pressure on the frame fixed to the stud work as the door opens and closes. 👍🏻
Easier and better to board over and then cut it out.
We overlaid the door wall within the kitchen area to bridge the stud wall to brick wall to stop cracking from swinging door.
The windows don’t take the same amount of movement it slamming however the window reveal dab will be consistent down the window edge to stop minimal movement. It will always need caulk pre decor as plaster and frame doesn’t match without a hairline crack.
@@Swwilsnot always, if there’s no window it can be more problematic to cut out after for the squareness of reveals and walls.
Obviously people have different methods but this is ours.
Magic…
What is the purpose of the pink sheet rock board under the steel vs. the normal sheet rock? Is it some kind of different fire rating or some other special requirement? On this side of the pond we have a green coated sheet rock for wet areas like bath rooms for extra moisture protection, and a blue coated sheet rock for skim coat plaster applications, as well as the normal greyish coated sheet rock, but I haven't seen a pink version before.
Pink is fire rated to meet building regs - used over steel. Weird regs allow lesser rated board over timber joists!
Pink is the FireLine, it adds some fire protection.
Interesting to see your "dabbing" process on block walls to attach the sheet rock. How well does that hold over time? Is that done to just get a nice flat uniform surface on the finished wall? Can you hang things on the wall with it mounted like that?
Yes this gives you the greatest adherent for plasterboard. It’s a flat surface Pre skim.
Some say use an additional mechanical fixing in twine but if you use the correct dab and amount evenly spread over the board that isn’t necessary. We have covered the dab spacing in previous videos.
Fixings are dependant of any kind of wall. You use the appropriate type. Always a problem to fix into thermalite blocks so the boards and adhesive actually help more than hinder.
Is that ply board or OSB or are they the same thing 🤔
Plywood and OSB are different mate 👍🏻
@@Mr_A_Builders so was that OSB that was put on the wall then and not ply 😆
Do you write your name and date on the plasterboard and funny pictures😅
...bro those calves godamn 15:36
😎
I honestly thought he was gonna start pole dancing on that prop at the beginning.
It was something he talked about and it wouldn’t be the first time Matt has done it. 😂
Why didn't you just screw the boards to the walls instead of using dab?
i have zero idea why you put plywood on interior walls instead of drywall...some of the things you guys do confuse the hell out of me
It's so they have a solid fixing point for when they screw wall and base cabinets.
I think what confuses me the most is that people don’t pay attention to the video and comment as soon as they see something they don’t agree with. Plasterboard doesn’t give a solid base to fix to for cabinets etc. plasterboard gets fixed on top of it before plastering.
@@Zeus_1983 for stuff like that we would usually just put blocking in the wall before the drywall. its pat of rough in framing before the drywall goes on
@@TheJbrinks each to their own I guess.
@@Zeus_1983 you would have to sheet the whole wall with ply and THEN drywall. with doing backing in the actual wall then just drywall its more cost effective and faster. im in ontario canada so i expect it to be different but some stuff just puzzles me. then again my cousin lives in british columbia and they do stuff different as well mostly due to cost of getting material to where they live. they do no do brick at all because it costs way too much and they are surrounded by forests and aluminun siding is much cheaper. i think i asked that question before about cost when doing certain things.
Please please put a continuous dab around any openings. You've now made it very difficult to air seal any windows.
The whole point of dry lining is to allow for the passive movement of air to stop stale elements. Your air seal comes from other parts of the construction included in this are windows,doors, cavity closures etc etc