I had seriously considered purchasing a sailboat as a toy for my retirement. After watching both your and numerous other sailing youtube presentations I have decided to abort this idea pursuant to numerous ongoing fixit projects on every boat featured. Too much work/expense for sailing time available. Maybe the way to navigate this maze is to join a sailing club.
The same happened on my CD 28. There is a fiberglass muffler riser/mixer for the exhaust and seawater in. My exhaust line collapsed in the exhaust water mixture out and near the box. I cut out the bad hose section. I bought a stainless steel elbow the right size diameter from a muffler shop and double clamped the elbow to both new ends of the removed bad exhaust hose. The friggin riser and hose are way forward only accessible from the port lazarett. 10 bucks says you have a bad hose or collapsed section near the muffler. The heat and bend in the hose caused it to weaken. I replaced this section with a stainless steel muffler elbow to prevent a split in the future. My system was raw water cooling mixed with exhaust. The hose collapse also caused the fiberglass riser box to rupture and I had to replace it as well. I still believe a collapsed hose on the outlet side of your exhaust is the problem at the bend. If so, cut the bad section out and install the stainless muffler bend to replace the weak point. Hope this helps.
The best things to do when you buy a new part, save the old one and get it fixed and put it away, eventually you will have back ups for everything while offshore. I will give the best compliment I can for your videos.... I actually watch all the adds to help out lol stay safe 😊👍
Check the raw water seacock is clear when opened. Then check that the hose from the seacock to the raw water pump is clear. Then replace the impeller. It may look ok, but there shouldn’t be bits in there like shown in your video. Looks like you addressed the outlet hose and replaced the exhaust riser so if you don’t have a separate water lift muffler, the only thing left is the heat exchanger. Pull the cap and pull the tube bundle to do a thorough visual check. After removing the tube bundle, check inside the housing for zinc fragments. Once all clean reinstall, put Tef Gel on the screw that tightens the cap, and use a new gasket under the cap.
He said he just replaced the impeller a few weeks prior. It shouldn't be bad that soon, I would think. Don't know what the gunk was, could be because there wasn't good water flow. I agree that the seacock may have an issue to be tested. I had a lot of zinc in my system every time I did a replacement.
Replace the Impeller with lots of lube. Replace the thermostat. Change oil with Rotella. That lifter knock is a potentially expensive issue. Keep the oil fresh so engine has best possible lubrication. Given your skill, You can adjust the valves yourself, but set aside a few business days in a safe harbor to do it. These engines almost never fail when properly maintained. They fail when not shown some regular love. Cheers Sam!
Hi Sam. Nice to see all the people trying to help with advice. I am not the least mechanically minded so can't help, however at 10:03 whilst tugging at that hose "Come on you..." I could provide the word you were looking for.
I find your videos very inspiring, great to see the methodical approach to troubleshooting and diagnostics, gives me more confidence to try myself what I’d previously have paid others to do! Keep up the good work
You've checked everything I would've checked. It's a partial blockage which I've seen happen from a couple of heat exchanger tubes blocked. Maybe take it off and soak in vinegar over night (saw 'Project Atticus' channel do this). Enjoyed video, entertaining and informative.
Excellent video Sam! You are really making some progress with your editing. I love the cutaway to you playing sax and think that was great timing. Showing the map is great. The chunks of you pulling at ropes with only the sound of wind and sails makes me start to sweat just watching. Good job man!
I bought my sailboat and everything worked great. A few weeks later, I wasn't pumping water out the exhaust. It turned out to be the heat exchanger. It was an easy fix, though the dang thing was a pain to get at the bolts on the back of the engine because of my layout. The exchanger was totally blocked. Soaked it in a vinegar solution overnight and she was clean as a whistle. I would pull yours and check it out. Just my opinion. I also agree with others comments about the engine tapping sound. It sounds like an adjustment is needed. May have been the audio, but it sounded like it was the engine and not surrounding dishes, etc. Cheers!
I had a slow water problem like on my yammar. I took off the water manafoid on the side of the engine and found it clogged with carbon .actully had to chisel in out. almost looked like it was casted from the factory. After that with a couple gaskets it was flowing fine.I thing what happens is the exhalst fumes mix with the hot water and forms deposits. LOve your videos
I have the same engine with an Alberg 35. If you've checked the impeller, the next easiest thing to check is the water intake. Make sure it's clear and you're getting good flow there. If that checks out, I'd check the hoses carefully; I've had a leak in the one from the muffler to the outflow. Also, you might check the thermostat. Finally, if everything checks out, you could pull the heat exchanger and clean it out but that's a bit of a job.
Preventer for main: just tie a dock line from the boom to a forward cleat. Done. The nylon 3 strand dock line has enough stretch to mitigate broken expensive stuff and still keep your skull intact.
Ok I have had this problem and parts of the impeller jammed in a bend of the hose from the impeller pump. Seems obvious when you see the broken impeller bits there already. Also the bits can go to the inlet end of the heat exchanger. Good Luck. André BTW nice Boris Johnson hair style.
Not sure if you're still having issues with the exhaust water but I have had the same issue on my 2GM (raw water version) and changing the elbow fixed it. I had to wait a while like you for it to start coming out well as the wet muffler was probably dry. I am going to start soaking the elbow in descaler every couple years or couple hundred hours to keep it freed up
I had a overheating problem with my Yanmar, checked everything as you did. Finally had to prime the pump half the time when starting. Next boat will be smaller with an outboard.
I think you've fixed the problem. Water flow out of transom has increased and there's no steam. If it's restricted, you'll see very little water and a bit of steam. Over time the mixing elbow will carbon up. Had to chip the carbon out of mine somewhere between Hawaii and California.
Hey Sam - I'm for watching the whole Keys trip in one video. Like others have said you have a kind face and demeanor which is easy to watch. Pile on the sailing shots and technical details if you ask me. I watch 4 different sailing channels (I don't watch much TV just YT), so banging away under sail at the waves is relaxing to me and fun to watch. For interest you may want to check out Adventures of an Old Sea Dog, Beau and Brandy, and Adventures In Paradise (Cat 22 couple around Tampa Florida). I own a Cat 22 here in the Puget Sound Washington I'm fixing up to be perfect:-) Keep Posting, Be Safe!! and Sail On Brother!!
Often when an engine is salt water cooled (not sure if yours is) in my experience it runs cold. This can also be the case where it is only used for entering harbor or a marina berth so runs for a fairly short time. There tends to be a build up of carbon at the exhaust elbow, sometimes so much that it almost blocks the exhaust. So a spare elbow should be carried and replaced or cleared as necessary. Just as with diesel cars, a good run every week for an hour or more under load at full operating temperature is great for ensuring the engine helps to clean itself.
I don't know anything about sailing, but UA-cam recommended your Hawaii solo sail to me a few days ago and I've been hooked. Glad to have found you mate!
The impeller in your engine driven pump should be running flat against the face of the cover. That will show as the cover looking polished. It looks like the water is bypassing the rubber fins and thus the pump is not sealed. Try changing the rubber impeller and check for any leakage around the fins.
I have a Cape Dory 27 with a Yanmar YSB8. Just replaced the exhaust elbow and have seen a huge increase in performance, and a lot of water coming out the exhaust now.
Hey bro I have the same motor and after good sail every once in a while I have the same problem. I have found when the water stops I've lost prime in the system and I close and reopen the valve which in my case resolved the water issue...thanks live your channel keep it up.
Hey Sam the shards of aluminium will actually start rusting in your topcoat. In my boat this started to look very ugly after a while so I`ll probably have to repaint soon.
Just watched this again. All I keep thinking is will he go electric? Many parts and systems with a diesel. I hope all is well and your healing road is a smooth one.
The reduced flow might be the heat exchanger, as others have said. Might also be a delaminated hose between the through hull and the strainer, or between the strainer and the raw water pump. Difficult to inspect but cheap to replace.
Change the empela again , I got trouble with a 'Chinese' made one , looked good , no broken blades but changed for another make and big difference , cheap fix & can always save the old one for emergencies ... fair winds
Thanks for this video Sam. I have a Yanmar 3YM30 that seems to run hot. I am pretty sure I have a clogged heat exchanger and this video gives some good ideas on how to test. I am very jealous of your engine access. I think I will have to take my deck off my Hanse to do the things you have done.
wind velocity constantly changing, welcome to FL lol. i think we have the fastest direction and velocity shifts of anywhere here. usually when the elbow goes bad you get steam cause it burns off tghe raw water, check your coolant if you have little white salt balls in coolant it needs to be changed and heat exchanger is also bad.
I’m sure you checked this already, but I once experienced something similar due to a slipping belt. I was using a belt that came with the boat and I assumed it was the correct type but, it wasn’t. Also I was told by another sailor not to lubricate the impeller. Might be worth more research or input from someone with more knowledge on here.
I'm relieved to hear I'm not the only one that can't keep a victron solar charge controller going... Support from online vendors seems to be non existent. I think I'll try some good stuff from the UK next. Just blah! Got 8 days from one and 2 months from the replacement. Both victron. Hopefully they can point me to a better source for warranty and redeem themselves. I don't understand why the charge controllers don't have the same quality as the inverter chargers.
So every other year or so I have an issue with water pumping right after coming out from winter layup. My impeller is always new or nearly new I change it every year regardless. I have a "Prestone" flush and fill kit installed prior to my water pump. When this "lock" happens to me, I turn off the through hull, hook up a hose to the flush and fill connection and drop some water in it to "prime" it if you will.... Once it runs about a gallon through, I disconnect it, cap it, and turn the through hull back on.... I don't know if this is your problem. My other thought is that perhaps you don't see the same velocity of water shooting out the back because the elbow now is completely unrestricted. The way to tell is put a load on that you know and understand (ex. @ 2000 rpm temp is typically X) If it goes to the same place you are probably fine.
Probably way too late, but did you take a close look at the wear plate and cover on the raw water pump? They’re cheap to replace and ensure your impeller is getting good suction.
Had similar problem right around Dry Tortugas. Did not know what to do so called Towing. Nine hour tow back to a Punta Gorda. Turned out raw water intake thru hole clogged. Take the hose off sea cock and check.
Posted too soon, sorry. Look at the video when you first disassembled the raw water pump and compare vane orientation to this time you took apart the pump. They are 'flowing' in opposite directions. Pump can work like this but sub-optimally.
Can someone answer a few general questions for me? I'm wondering how someone sailing solo sleeps while underway? Or does the boat stop for the night during rest periods? I would imagine that traffic wouldn't have been too much of an issue while sailing out in the open Pacific, but I figure there's probably a bit more traffic in the gulf. Perhaps AIS deals with this problem by sounding alarms when 2 boats are within X miles of each other? Under ideal wind and sea conditions, roughly how fast can a boat like this travel?
I think many of us are interested in understanding what happened on your way down to the keys. First of all, it took a lot longer than the 30 hours you had calculated. Second of all, about half way down, you seemed to go adrift for quite awhile.. Someone even conjectured that you had demasted, but I suspect that you went hove-to to get some sleep. Then you headed to an even more westward bearing before tacking. So.. what was the story? Conditions.. decisions... and why did you choose to bang the corner rather than making a series of tacks on the way down? I (and I suspect others) are super-interested in your thought processes.
While not an expert, while looking at the part that holds the impeller it looks wrong. The new impeller already has 2 badly bent spokes. I would replace that part and/or verify you are using the correct impeller. Normally on outboards when fins are bent like that we replace the impeller, but the spacing looks wrong around it. Just my 2 cents.
Put a new impeller in it that one was weak. Put it in and see I have had ones that looked better that quit pumping. Get a new key pin also cheap parts Sam
I had seriously considered purchasing a sailboat as a toy for my retirement. After watching both your and numerous other sailing youtube presentations I have decided to abort this idea pursuant to numerous ongoing fixit projects on every boat featured. Too much work/expense for sailing time available. Maybe the way to navigate this maze is to join a sailing club.
Sailing club is the way to go for only sailing.
The same happened on my CD 28. There is a fiberglass muffler riser/mixer for the exhaust and seawater in. My exhaust line collapsed in the exhaust water mixture out and near the box. I cut out the bad hose section. I bought a stainless steel elbow the right size diameter from a muffler shop and double clamped the elbow to both new ends of the removed bad exhaust hose. The friggin riser and hose are way forward only accessible from the port lazarett. 10 bucks says you have a bad hose or collapsed section near the muffler. The heat and bend in the hose caused it to weaken. I replaced this section with a stainless steel muffler elbow to prevent a split in the future. My system was raw water cooling mixed with exhaust. The hose collapse also caused the fiberglass riser box to rupture and I had to replace it as well. I still believe a collapsed hose on the outlet side of your exhaust is the problem at the bend. If so, cut the bad section out and install the stainless muffler bend to replace the weak point. Hope this helps.
Most helpful youtube comment I've seen in years.
That long take was a really cool shot
I just loved the clips of the sounds and sites of just sailing. No narration. So cool.
Love the longer cuts, oh and I love how you loaded the winch lol
The best things to do when you buy a new part, save the old one and get it fixed and put it away, eventually you will have back ups for everything while offshore. I will give the best compliment I can for your videos.... I actually watch all the adds to help out lol stay safe 😊👍
A long take is just what the doctor ordered when we haven't been able to sail for so long! Thanks for the fix, Sam! 👌🏻⛵️
Check the raw water seacock is clear when opened. Then check that the hose from the seacock to the raw water pump is clear. Then replace the impeller. It may look ok, but there shouldn’t be bits in there like shown in your video. Looks like you addressed the outlet hose and replaced the exhaust riser so if you don’t have a separate water lift muffler, the only thing left is the heat exchanger. Pull the cap and pull the tube bundle to do a thorough visual check. After removing the tube bundle, check inside the housing for zinc fragments. Once all clean reinstall, put Tef Gel on the screw that tightens the cap, and use a new gasket under the cap.
He said he just replaced the impeller a few weeks prior. It shouldn't be bad that soon, I would think. Don't know what the gunk was, could be because there wasn't good water flow. I agree that the seacock may have an issue to be tested. I had a lot of zinc in my system every time I did a replacement.
Those impellers dont like to run without water they overheat very quickly
Yeah... Sometimes I think I should plunk down and get an inboard.
Then I see things like this and remember why I don't.
Thanks!
Replace the Impeller with lots of lube. Replace the thermostat. Change oil with Rotella. That lifter knock is a potentially expensive issue. Keep the oil fresh so engine has best possible lubrication. Given your skill, You can adjust the valves yourself, but set aside a few business days in a safe harbor to do it. These engines almost never fail when properly maintained. They fail when not shown some regular love. Cheers Sam!
love the long take !
Hi Sam. Nice to see all the people trying to help with advice. I am not the least mechanically minded so can't help, however at 10:03 whilst tugging at that hose "Come on you..." I could provide the word you were looking for.
I find your videos very inspiring, great to see the methodical approach to troubleshooting and diagnostics, gives me more confidence to try myself what I’d previously have paid others to do! Keep up the good work
My hats off to you Bud. Takes some big time intestinal fortitude to tackle what you did.
You've checked everything I would've checked. It's a partial blockage which I've seen happen from a couple of heat exchanger tubes blocked. Maybe take it off and soak in vinegar over night (saw 'Project Atticus' channel do this). Enjoyed video, entertaining and informative.
Excellent video Sam! You are really making some progress with your editing. I love the cutaway to you playing sax and think that was great timing. Showing the map is great. The chunks of you pulling at ropes with only the sound of wind and sails makes me start to sweat just watching. Good job man!
you are living the life what most of us can only dream of!
I have seen a hose that was delaminated on the inside and caused a restriction. Even though there was no leak.
Been there. Chartered a CD 36 out of Ft Meyers Beach over Christmas holidays about 30 years ago. Great memories!
I bought my sailboat and everything worked great. A few weeks later, I wasn't pumping water out the exhaust. It turned out to be the heat exchanger. It was an easy fix, though the dang thing was a pain to get at the bolts on the back of the engine because of my layout. The exchanger was totally blocked. Soaked it in a vinegar solution overnight and she was clean as a whistle. I would pull yours and check it out. Just my opinion. I also agree with others comments about the engine tapping sound. It sounds like an adjustment is needed. May have been the audio, but it sounded like it was the engine and not surrounding dishes, etc. Cheers!
I had a slow water problem like on my yammar. I took off the water manafoid on the side of the engine and found it clogged with carbon .actully had to chisel in out. almost looked like it was casted from the factory. After that with a couple gaskets it was flowing fine.I thing what happens is the exhalst fumes mix with the hot water and forms deposits. LOve your videos
I have the same engine with an Alberg 35. If you've checked the impeller, the next easiest thing to check is the water intake. Make sure it's clear and you're getting good flow there. If that checks out, I'd check the hoses carefully; I've had a leak in the one from the muffler to the outflow. Also, you might check the thermostat. Finally, if everything checks out, you could pull the heat exchanger and clean it out but that's a bit of a job.
Preventer for main: just tie a dock line from the boom to a forward cleat. Done. The nylon 3 strand dock line has enough stretch to mitigate broken expensive stuff and still keep your skull intact.
that’s exactly what I ended up doing on my way to the keys!
Ok I have had this problem and parts of the impeller jammed in a bend of the hose from the impeller pump. Seems obvious when you see the broken impeller bits there already. Also the bits can go to the inlet end of the heat exchanger. Good Luck. André BTW nice Boris Johnson hair style.
Not sure if you're still having issues with the exhaust water but I have had the same issue on my 2GM (raw water version) and changing the elbow fixed it. I had to wait a while like you for it to start coming out well as the wet muffler was probably dry. I am going to start soaking the elbow in descaler every couple years or couple hundred hours to keep it freed up
Great video, I love the sailing action. Can't wait till you release your next video with the trip to the Keys.
I'd revisit the water pump. Looked a little disfigured to me. Love your videos !!!!
Sam consider installing a temp gauge if you don't already have one. That yanmar will run 10K+ hours if it doesn't overheat. Cheers!
you the man Sam! love your videos. One sailor his vessel and the sea. What a life you have dude. Awesome
also really enjoy the repairs and maintenance part of your videos. education and entertaining.
I had a overheating problem with my Yanmar, checked everything as you did. Finally had to prime the pump half the time when starting. Next boat will be smaller with an outboard.
I think you've fixed the problem. Water flow out of transom has increased and there's no steam. If it's restricted, you'll see very little water and a bit of steam. Over time the mixing elbow will carbon up. Had to chip the carbon out of mine somewhere between Hawaii and California.
Hey Sam - I'm for watching the whole Keys trip in one video. Like others have said you have a kind face and demeanor which is easy to watch. Pile on the sailing shots and technical details if you ask me. I watch 4 different sailing channels (I don't watch much TV just YT), so banging away under sail at the waves is relaxing to me and fun to watch. For interest you may want to check out Adventures of an Old Sea Dog, Beau and Brandy, and Adventures In Paradise (Cat 22 couple around Tampa Florida). I own a Cat 22 here in the Puget Sound Washington I'm fixing up to be perfect:-) Keep Posting, Be Safe!! and Sail On Brother!!
I vote for one long video.
Been watching your journeys for long time -- best video yet. Great to see you working the vane and trouble-shooting. Safe travels
Definitely worth taking a look at your heat exchanger at some point. Very popular place for barnacles, shellfish etc. to live!
Often when an engine is salt water cooled (not sure if yours is) in my experience it runs cold. This can also be the case where it is only used for entering harbor or a marina berth so runs for a fairly short time. There tends to be a build up of carbon at the exhaust elbow, sometimes so much that it almost blocks the exhaust. So a spare elbow should be carried and replaced or cleared as necessary. Just as with diesel cars, a good run every week for an hour or more under load at full operating temperature is great for ensuring the engine helps to clean itself.
Mine is the freshwater cooled version. I try to run it long enough to warm up and under load to avoid those problems in the future.
Best to run at high revs for two minutes before shutting down diesel to stop exhaust carbonisation. André
I don't know anything about sailing, but UA-cam recommended your Hawaii solo sail to me a few days ago and I've been hooked. Glad to have found you mate!
The impeller in your engine driven pump should be running flat against the face of the cover. That will show as the cover looking polished. It looks like the water is bypassing the rubber fins and thus the pump is not sealed. Try changing the rubber impeller and check for any leakage around the fins.
It is good to see you heading some where, any where. Keep smiling your the one.
Your problem reminded me I really should change my raw water pump impeller.
Similar thing happened on my Volvo penta. Replaced the elbow and then had to bleed air from the system to get the water to flow. Hope it worked out.
I have a Cape Dory 27 with a Yanmar YSB8. Just replaced the exhaust elbow and have seen a huge increase in performance, and a lot of water coming out the exhaust now.
Hey bro I have the same motor and after good sail every once in a while I have the same problem. I have found when the water stops I've lost prime in the system and I close and reopen the valve which in my case resolved the water issue...thanks live your channel keep it up.
Good to know!
Dude, you're awesome.
Hey Sam the shards of aluminium will actually start rusting in your topcoat. In my boat this started to look very ugly after a while so I`ll probably have to repaint soon.
My dream trip.Well done!
Just watched this again. All I keep thinking is will he go electric? Many parts and systems with a diesel. I hope all is well and your healing road is a smooth one.
Can't wait to see the rest of this series! Be sure to let us know what happened with your charge controller. Those Victrons are super popular.
I got a replacement thats working well so far.
Looking forward to this Sam. Timely for me as I'm dealing with hunting down an exhaust leak on mh Uni M25XP.
The reduced flow might be the heat exchanger, as others have said. Might also be a delaminated hose between the through hull and the strainer, or between the strainer and the raw water pump. Difficult to inspect but cheap to replace.
Change the empela again , I got trouble with a 'Chinese' made one , looked good , no broken blades but changed for another make and big difference , cheap fix & can always save the old one for emergencies ... fair winds
Great video Sam!
Thanks for this video Sam. I have a Yanmar 3YM30 that seems to run hot. I am pretty sure I have a clogged heat exchanger and this video gives some good ideas on how to test. I am very jealous of your engine access. I think I will have to take my deck off my Hanse to do the things you have done.
wind velocity constantly changing, welcome to FL lol. i think we have the fastest direction and velocity shifts of anywhere here. usually when the elbow goes bad you get steam cause it burns off tghe raw water, check your coolant if you have little white salt balls in coolant it needs to be changed and heat exchanger is also bad.
Has anyone ever told you... that you have resting smile face! I mean you’re smiling even when you’re not smiling! Lol
He’s a Disney Kid
2 or 3 parter!!!!
we've got all the time in the world right now,
especially for a little adventure!
I’m sure you checked this already, but I once experienced something similar due to a slipping belt. I was using a belt that came with the boat and I assumed it was the correct type but, it wasn’t. Also I was told by another sailor not to lubricate the impeller. Might be worth more research or input from someone with more knowledge on here.
He changed the belts as soon as he got the boat. He also changed the impeller.
I just subscribed. I live in Punta Gorda. My 36 foot Morgan is S/V Pursuit.
Hopefully soon you will get her where you can trust her. Be safe.
I'm relieved to hear I'm not the only one that can't keep a victron solar charge controller going... Support from online vendors seems to be non existent. I think I'll try some good stuff from the UK next. Just blah! Got 8 days from one and 2 months from the replacement. Both victron. Hopefully they can point me to a better source for warranty and redeem themselves. I don't understand why the charge controllers don't have the same quality as the inverter chargers.
great adventure Sam
Keep them
Around 20 minutes max. Love the videos.
So every other year or so I have an issue with water pumping right after coming out from winter layup. My impeller is always new or nearly new I change it every year regardless. I have a "Prestone" flush and fill kit installed prior to my water pump. When this "lock" happens to me, I turn off the through hull, hook up a hose to the flush and fill connection and drop some water in it to "prime" it if you will.... Once it runs about a gallon through, I disconnect it, cap it, and turn the through hull back on.... I don't know if this is your problem. My other thought is that perhaps you don't see the same velocity of water shooting out the back because the elbow now is completely unrestricted. The way to tell is put a load on that you know and understand (ex. @ 2000 rpm temp is typically X) If it goes to the same place you are probably fine.
THe long take was for me too :) LIKE!!
Probably way too late, but did you take a close look at the wear plate and cover on the raw water pump? They’re cheap to replace and ensure your impeller is getting good suction.
Had similar problem right around Dry Tortugas. Did not know what to do so called Towing. Nine hour tow back to a Punta Gorda. Turned out raw water intake thru hole clogged. Take the hose off sea cock and check.
Love your channel, I can't wait to see your trip to the keys :)
The impeller you just replaced had some pieces in the chamber, which indicates it needs replacement.
I am pretty sure the impeller needs to be replaced. Your not overreacting when it comes to keeping that engine cool.
Yes - can hurt to replace it again and see if that does it - easy and inexpensive. (two things that are never associated with boating)!
Yeah I'd want to change that thing with how deformed it looked
Could be the intake line collapsing , plugged or around the clean out screen sucking air..
I have a Yanmar and the water doesn’t come out in a steady stream. As long as she’s not overheating. Watch your coolant level.
The Sax? Could you please come to shore and cure Corona also. Nice job Sam.
Posted too soon, sorry. Look at the video when you first disassembled the raw water pump and compare vane orientation to this time you took apart the pump. They are 'flowing' in opposite directions. Pump can work like this but sub-optimally.
Thanks so much for sharing.
you really could use a good deck hand that plays blues harp...that also has a brand new drone
Perhaps cleaning the passage ways of the heat exchanger?
Where did you get this saxophone from? I have been looking for something like it.
Amazon....
I'm excited for you
I know it been a while ago but....I had similar issue that turned out to be an airlock..
Nice saxophone playing :)
You might have gone over this in your previous videos but is this trip a continuous journey or is there a final destination?
Sam , what’s that music thing you playing ?
Grese the impeller with a handful of grease when you replace it
Great seeing you again Sam! How do you like the new boat as opposed to the Swedish Fish?
Its great. Docking is a little harder though
So was it the heat exchanger? Cleaned with vinegar yet?
No water at first start? Cooling water thermostat probably doesn't open until engine heats up.
The thermostat is on the freshwater side so it should still pump saltwater out of the exhaust.
Love this
Luv the vids,,,Quick question ,,does the bimini affekt the vindvane????
Im sure it affects the airflow some but it still seems to work alright
Were you trying to “tune a fish” with that horn?
Can someone answer a few general questions for me?
I'm wondering how someone sailing solo sleeps while underway? Or does the boat stop for the night during rest periods? I would imagine that traffic wouldn't have been too much of an issue while sailing out in the open Pacific, but I figure there's probably a bit more traffic in the gulf.
Perhaps AIS deals with this problem by sounding alarms when 2 boats are within X miles of each other?
Under ideal wind and sea conditions, roughly how fast can a boat like this travel?
You should stop and say hi to me at Boca Grande.
Just like priming a pump, i think youll be ok with it now.
Thought you had a wisker pole?
I think many of us are interested in understanding what happened on your way down to the keys. First of all, it took a lot longer than the 30 hours you had calculated. Second of all, about half way down, you seemed to go adrift for quite awhile.. Someone even conjectured that you had demasted, but I suspect that you went hove-to to get some sleep. Then you headed to an even more westward bearing before tacking. So.. what was the story? Conditions.. decisions... and why did you choose to bang the corner rather than making a series of tacks on the way down? I (and I suspect others) are super-interested in your thought processes.
The wind died so i went to sleep and drifted backwards a little. Thats par for the course for me.
Your water pump impeller looks like could be changed and cleaning to that area
Do u think birds get so lost in the ocean and don’t know where to go so they just fly around hopelessly trying to find land???
I may have missed it in the comments but have you checked the thermostat if there is one?
No its freshwater cooled
While not an expert, while looking at the part that holds the impeller it looks wrong. The new impeller already has 2 badly bent spokes. I would replace that part and/or verify you are using the correct impeller. Normally on outboards when fins are bent like that we replace the impeller, but the spacing looks wrong around it. Just my 2 cents.
Thats just because its still in the pump.
@@samholmessailing I believe they put that area where it makes the rubber flex to keep the impeller from having anything cake up on it.
What’s that instrument at 2:24 looks like a toy sax
Put a new impeller in it that one was weak. Put it in and see I have had ones that looked better that quit pumping. Get a new key pin also cheap parts Sam