Makita Circular Saw Review | Guide Rail vs DIY Saw Guide | HS7601J/2
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- Опубліковано 19 бер 2018
- I wanted to see how a DIY guide for a circular saw faired against a Makita Guide Rail and their 190mm Circular Saw. In this video we unbox a brand-new Makita saw, set up the guide rail and make some basic cuts and compare the results with my old Black and Decker Saw and my DIY Guide Rail.
Reviewed in this video are:
Makita HS7601J/2 190 mm Circular Saw with MakPac Carry Case
amzn.to/2G9jNdr
Makita 1.4m Guide Rail for SP6000K1 Saw
amzn.to/2IFvw1J
Makita 197005-0 Guide Rail Adaptor for HS7601 Saw
www.lawson-his.co.uk/makita-1...
Festool Guide Rail Clamps
amzn.to/2pumGev
Plus:
Black & Decker KS40 Circular Saw (Out of Production)
DIY Saw Guide from my earlier video
• Ultimate Circular Saw ...
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Wherever possible links are to actual products used, but this is not always possible, for example some products are not available outside the UK in which case I have selected something similar. - Фільми й анімація
Great stuff Karl - love the overhead shots 👍👍
Peter Millard thanks Peter. Both the overhead shots and the pieces to camera at the start were filmed on the same rig. See earlier video for the how-to.
Strawbyte Workshop I saw that - very flexible little mount for a small shop 👍
Very useful thanks - been using a cordless Makita with a homemade guide and getting the adaptor and rail looks like a worthwhile upgrade for similar mdf & chipboard cutting without the big expense of a plunge saw.
Thanks for the comment
Great vid Karl. The fuel container spout / dust extractor adapter was an added bonus tip. I have one of those loafing about! Reckon it will fit my B&D too.
Thanks for the comment
Hi Karl, a very useful video, thanks very much. I was very pleased to see your adapter worked so well. I have the Makita DHS680 cordless circular saw. I’m waiting for the guide rail adapter to see how it works on my saw and M. Guide rail. If it doesn’t work I’ll sell the saw and buy the M. Track saw. I like the idea of efficient dust collection. For the benefit of your cordless followers; to be completely cordless and hose-less I bought a Mafell dust bag #206921 which fits and works exceptionally well in collecting dust on this saw. I’ve also bought the Makita B-09248 Cordless Circular Saw Blade 40 tooth for the best chance of a clean cut.
Keep up the good work!
Thanks for the recommendation of the dust bag and you're absolutely correct about the blade - especially for man-made boards. Indeed I think that's been mentioned by another commenter.
Christian any update? Did you stick with guide rail adaptor or you invested in guide saw? As Im in your shoes and not sure should I buy adaptor or guide saw. I do house renovations for my own houses I boy but dont want to spend that much money for track saw especially that I own circular saw and table saw. thanks
Hi Christian! Same question, did you keeps the dhs680 with rail or did you go for the tracksaw?
Toys from Makita are pretty amazing! I've never been disappointed with their tools. You'll get a lot done with that saw :)
Hey Eric - made over 20 cuts with the saw in the cabinet project and the saw/rail combo saved so much time. First Makita tool for me, very please. Thanks for watching.
Many of the core tools I use now are Makita. Keep up the review videos my friend! Nicely Done!
I regularly use the Makita Plunge Track saw and a Makita 6 1/2' circular saw with a DIY rail/track similar to yours. Advantage with the plunge saw is better dust extraction and ease of setup - not requiring the need for clamps. I can't really say that the cut is that much better with the plunge say. Cost is something to consider though. Cheers from the Sunny Coast of Queensland Australia!!
Hey Les - thanks so much for the comment. Interestingly I've found plenty of viewers from Australia and New Zealand using a very similar set-up based around a circular saw rather than plunge saw. I'm not sure why as I know that both the corded and 2x18v makita plunge saws are popular there. I've friends that live in Rockhampton - not been to visit yet - but they'll mention the weather everytime they call.
You bought a new makita saw and makita tracks...got a screw fix plunge saw and hood makita rails very happy with it .wont go back to circular saw and home made guides as sold them and got enough to buy a 1.5 track...'tool upgrade'...did like your holes for clamping home made rail...wish I had seen that when made mine...not seen that in any 'home brew' rail guide vids! Keep up you good work...and I'll be buying some of your waste side cut shims brill invention. Regards Graham
This video was made shortly before the market for cheap plunge saws really opened-up with Titan, Erbauer and those from Aldi and Lidl.
I do still use my circular saw a lot on the rail in preference to the plunge saw I now have. I like that it has a good depth of cut 62mm on the rail compared to 50 with the plunge saw.
I stand by the claim that the HS7601 plus guide rail and adapter is cheaper than the plunge-saw combo, but it's not a plunge saw.
The holey guide rail finally went to the tip last week. I've been really pleased that people saw the advantage of the holes. It made a difference. Parting with the little black and decker saw was a sad moment that had built many many projects over the years.
Anyway thanks for the comments.
Thanks for this. I have this saw, and I’m curious: What is the benefit of having the saw run on top of the track? I just clamp a scrap fence and off we go! Don’t understand the need to spend big bucks on the track.
I am however buying the Trend Varijig guide clamp, but again, intend just to run my saw/router along the side of it - never had a problem!
Okay, so this isn't going to sound like the best reason but once I put the saw on the track it was a game changer for me. So yes you can run your saw against a straight edge and make your cuts that way, but the straight edge needs to be offset from you measured marks on the board. with the track (once you've trimmed the splinter guard) the splinter guard edge is simply aligned to the marks and off you go. The track is fairly grippy so you can make some cuts without clamps (although I always clamp).
I've made and featured in the video a diy guide for my black and decker saw and that's perfectly fine. I might re-visit the subject in a future video as people have assumed that now I use a SP6000 plunge saw with the track, all these other methods are redundant, but I use a 'trend- like straight edge all the time for some cuts and especially when I want to get the full depth of cut out of the HS7601J saw. Anyway great comment. Thanks,
Great video and information. I am considering this saw with a guide rail. What I really want to be able to cut sheet timber by joining two rails together, Do you known if a 1 meter and a 1.5 meter rail are compatible. I do not need a track longer than 2'5m long. Thanks again Karl.
Yes, they will join together easily. I've the 1m and 2x 1.5m rails and they're all interchangeable. Be sure to get the joining kit with two bars and not the single bar.
I made my guide out of a laminate floor plank and it works fine . just make sure to keet it dry. I think if you can use vinyl , it will be better
Great stuff thanks for you comment.
Great video. I don’t suppose you made a video of when you trimmed the Guide Rail before first use did you as I have just purchased the Rail and adapter for mine and don’t want to make a hash of it.
You know it's really simple. Lay the rail on piece of sheet material. Set the saw to make a shallow scoring cut of between 3 & 5 mm. Place the front of the saw on the rail with front edge of the blade well away from the splinter guard. Wait for the saw to be at full speed and the advance.the saw forward slowly. Let the rear of the blade clear the end of the rail before releasing the trigger. And your done. Be bold. You won't screw it up.
Strawbyte Workshop Thanks very much very helpful I’m surprised no one has made a video of this or Makita themselves advise how to do this in any instructions when purchasing the guide rail.
hi i am glad i found your video , have you a link for the same guide rail and adaptor (makita) please? many many thanks
Link in video description.
Good to see how the track saw copes. Looks a handy thing to have. 🌲🦊🌲
Making it ‘Out Of The Woods’ my only issue is that I really need a short piece of track for smaller cuts. Otherwise it's great.
Strawbyte Workshop yes, I see what you mean. 🤔🌲🦊🌲
Great review! Thanks for sharing
John Clothier thanks John.
Great video thanks. I’m in the market for a circular saw, mainly for plywood. Would the blade that came with this be suited, or should I opt for a blade with more teeth?
I ended up buying the a wera screwdriver set after your recommendation, and I don’t regret it.
Thank you👍🏻
Hi - You're right a blade with a higher tooth count would give a much better finish in man made boards such as ply, osb or MDF. That said, I've never had any issues with the combination blade the saw was supplied with in ply.
And I'm glade you like the Wera tools - I'm delighted with mind and have expanded the set futher since the video.
Strawbyte Workshop thanks for your reply.
Merry Christmas👍🏻
A track saw is definitely on my wishlist.
Andy Pugh It was high up there for me. I considered the Titan saw from Screwfix but as the need was to replace my B&D saw for one with a greater depth of cut, I quickly identified the HS7601J and it's compatibility with the guide rail. As I said in the video it's only fault is that it is not a track saw. You get the function but miss out on the benefits. Plunge, better dust collection accurate depth and so on. Thanks for watching. K
Hi Karl, one question about the Makita. Is the bevel angle "rail" indexed at any point? Thanks
A basic scale is stamped on to the scale.
I'm looking to buy the same saw. I have the following question: the rail has a rubber splinter guard. When used with SP6000, the first cut trims the splinter guard. With HS7601 and rail attachment, do you need to trim the rubber?
Yes it works in exactly the same way.
How well does it work for this setup to keep a constant clearing between the blade and the splinter guard?
I mean: the guide attachment is plastic and the metal rods connecting the saw and the attachment are fitted by hand using some plastic knobs. Mounting and removing the attachment from saw can change the clearance from the splinter guard.
I liked a lot your melamine cut. Do you keep having this kind of cuts, on different bevel angles, after all this time ?
Hello, great video- thanks! Please could you tell me whether the saw blade butts up close to the rubber strip on the guide rail (as you would expect a proper plunge / track saw to do)? It's hard to make out from the video just how close they sit to one another. I'm guessing they sit perfectly next to one another as you talked about trimming the rubber lip. I have the same saw but a slightly different Makita adapter and the blade sits 3mm away from the lip which is a pain. Many thanks in advance
Hi there - yes it does. It works just like the plunge saw. The first cut through trims the splinter guard and then you use that to line-up your cuts. The adapter has positive stops on the saw and a clear accurate scale so you can line it up first-time every time. The problem you have I encountered initially. There are at least 3 different adapters with the 197005-0 adapter being hard to source (see link) the adapters on Amazon are different models, badly described and give you that 3mm gap. Thanks for watching and the lovely comment. Appreciated.
@@StrawbyteWorkshop That is very helpful- thank you! Makita themselves have now confirmed that the adapter bases are the same but the rule bars / rails are different. 'C' rails are needed for this saw. Thanks again
Hi there hope all is well!! I finally bought the track and adaptor and they arrived today but I have been messing with it only today before I do make that cut into the rubber strip - I found what maybe an issue, I ask you a couple of things? how did you cut the black trip off at the beginning of the track since the whole saw is not on the track and hence it wobbles which means an uneven cut or do you just discount that bit as the bit just to put the saw on to and use the rest as the actual guide? (same issue at the end of course). Also did you find when you line up to zero at both ends ( for 90 degree cut) its not quite level - one side seems perhaps 1/3 mm out? or do you thing that makes no difference to the cut (I have never cut wood with a slight angle to it i can imagine it would burn the wood,)? thanks in advance. ps the track is self looks extremely straight a good start :). pss i shall be buying that kerf adjuster soon too def need one
I'm glad you've jumped in the with track and adapter. The two issues you have highlighted are common and I've had several similar questions across the tracksaw videos I've produced. The trimming back the strip and the saw not being on the track properly is common and all I have to offer is go slowly and carefully. The ends of the track won't be perfect - mine aren't - but its the centre of the track I use most and the strip in the middle that I align to marks on the wood I'm cutting.
As for the second problem you make a good observation and something I didn't notice at the time of filming. The marks on the bars that you use to line-up the saw for 90 or 45 degree cuts are simply stamped into the metal and not precise. I have a similar under 1mm alignment error when I look closely. I've just got into the habit of getting set-up placing the saw on the rail and making the final 'tightening' of the thumbscrews then when everything looks straight. After all if it looks straight it is straight, as someone once said.
Thanks for such a pro vid Karl.
I have a question, I have the sAme model of Makita saw and my question is does the rail adapter comes with the saw and if not is it must have to use the saw with the guide rail?
Wish you have shown the adaptor setup to the saw.
Thanks
No it doesn't come with the saw. Using a rail isn't necessary with a circular saw but does improve accuracy. You can get by with a home made rail or by clamping a straight edge to the board you are cutting.
Strawbyte Workshop
Thank you once again Karl, much appreciate your time and effort to respond 👍
@@muzakhan6458 No problem and thanks for watching.
Spot on Karl mate. Enjoyed this a lot! Commented more over on FB - hurry with the next video please!
Steve Maker thanks for the feedback Steve and I'm glad you enjoy them. I'll be filming tomorrow so don't worry another will be along soon.
Strawbyte Workshop Excellent mate. Always look forward to your videos. So well planned, filmed and presented!
Thanks Steve.
Thanks for such a clear video and the really useful info
Glad it was helpful!
Hi Karl, I have recently purchased a Maikita guide rails and adapter for the saw. I have had my trusty HS7601 for several years - great tool. Please tell me what I am doing wrong: The splinter guard after maybe 30'ish cuts each around 60cm in 9mm ply and the splinter guard is virtually gone at the "starting" end of the guide rail and around 2mm left at the "end" of the guide rail! I never see anyone adjusting the little locking knobs on the Makita rail adapter - nor adjusting the little slider (to stop it tilting). The ply is absolute rubbish - bought from B&Q - full of voids. I was using a rip saw blade. Now I searched for > 80T b;lade - gave up. The best I could buy was a 60T Makita blade...I had to buy extra splinter guard.
Hey Mauro. I'm really not sure what the issue could be. Sure the splinter guard will need to be replaced but mine did hundreds of cuts before giving up the ghost. It could be the blade. A ripping blade had teeth a distance apart; a 60T blade should make a cleaner cut in plywood, with anything over 40T being probably OK. I'm not sure where you are in the world, but check out Key Blades and Fixings or Axminster aXcaliber if you're in the UK. I've replaced all my Makita blades with those and produce much better cuts.
Hi great video I want to ask about rail adopter which comes with it. is that good for Rail or do I need to buy ( Makita 197005-0 Guide Rail Adapter ) to use on makita 1.5M rail. Thanks
So the saw and the rail adapter are sold separately. So yes to attach the saw to any Makita rail you will need the adapter. I hope that answeres the question.
@@StrawbyteWorkshop thank you .
Great video. Do you please know whether the adaptor is suitable for most Makita models? I have a Makita 36v model DHS710 do you please know whether it will fit this model? As when they list adaptors it seems like they only say for DHS660?
You might like to check yourself but, I think the guide rail adapter (Part number: 1969530), which is listed on the D&M Tools website, is suitable for the DSH710 and the DHS680. The Makita's UK HQ is based just down the road from me in Milton Keynes and their helpline is on 01908 211678 - they're usually pretty helpful when I've called in the past. Alternatively D&M are helpful too if you want to speak to them.
Strawbyte Workshop thank you, much appreciated. Keep up the good work and great videos m8 👍.
@@deankirk1008 👍
Have the same makita saw, so this was a very interesting video.. thanks 👍
Too bad you didn't mention anything about the adapter needed for the makita to tun on the guide rail... Maybe because it worked flawlessly? 😜
Yeah, looking back at this video I probably should have shown a bit more about that. On the plus side, the link and part number to the adapter should be pretty much solve some of the issues I had tracking the part down.; but while it's pretty simple to install there's plenty of scope for mis-alignment if you're not careful. Anyway there you go. 😀
@@StrawbyteWorkshop Cheers! 👍
Hello again, hope all is well. Can I ask you, do you think the guide rail clamps for the makita sp6000 will work on the track you are talking about or u think it might differ? Think u use festol ones, not checked the price but can imagine it's silly money :)
Hey Christopher - Yes all is well. Yes in the video you see me use festool clamps but they really only cost me £20. Track clamps are basically the same and fit both festool and makita tracks.
@@StrawbyteWorkshop did you, ahhh they put the price up just over £31, will look around or buy makita ones, thanks for the help
😀
Karl why didn’t you buy the Makita track saw to go with the rail?
😀
I've just been looking at buying the same model as it's discounted. The rail adapter is out of stock everywhere. I wonder if this model is end-of-line now ?
Hi Tony I am not sure where you are in the world but Lawson HS in the UK was really the only consistent stockist of the adapter and has them as of now. I did choose Makita as they do tend to have models that stick around for some time in fact many of the criticisms I see in reviews (in fact the only criticism) comes from their tools looking a little dated. My saw was heavily discounted this time last year so it's maybe not the end of the line just yet.
@@StrawbyteWorkshop In the UK! Thanks for the heads-up. Lawson HS seems to have it! I've seen a few reviews that the Makita HS7601J suffers from the base plate bending. Is that something you have encountered ? Also seeing that the makita guide rails whilst cheap seem to have poor build quality and people are opting for Festool which is the same fit (but twice the price). Any issues? I'm planning on making some long counter-top cuts ~2m and was looking at a range of solutions... but the guide rails seem to be more expensive than the saw! Considering making my own smaller guide if I can get off-cuts down sized at the local B&Q!
Tony With regards to the bending I haven’t encountered any issues and prior to getting my SP6000 track-saw a few months ago the circular saw has been in constant use. I can kind of see how though overly heavy handling you could potentially bend the base, but that would be true of other saws I’ve had and probably others on the market. As far as guiderails are concerned I’ve bought 4 so far (2 x 1400mm & 2 x 1000mm) and all have been fine - straight, flat and with the ends cut at 90 degrees to the edge. The connectors are a little basic and are probably my only criticism. The joint between rails if not carefully set-up can create an ridge on the edge or top face which can make it hard for the guide-rail adapter to pass across it. I don’t like having to taken my time setting up stuff like that and it niggles me when I have to rip-cut 2.4m boards and spend 5 minutes joining rails. But once set-up properly a 2.8m rail is a game changer in my garage workshop. On my oldest rail I have just this week replaced the splinter-guard and the rubber strip on the top. The cost was about £10 and the stock strips will allow you to repair 2 rails and cost a total of £20 from Axminster. I am sure festoon have found some way of ensuring that their aluminuim extrusions are better then everyone else’s but they don’t have the anti-tip feature the Makita rails have and I quite like it. All the cuts I’ve made have been straight enough - when installing some boards into the wall of my garage loft I had to edge-joint along a 2m length which would be seen and the two cut edges butted up together fitted with no gap. So in my experience, with care, you can get results that are straight enough. In a recent Skill Builder (UA-cam) series on track-saws the Marita and Festool options were the ‘in-use’ tools the presenters personally owned. That’s enough endorsement for me. Anyway I hope you’ve checked out my other tool reviews and further updates on my Makita experiences.
@@StrawbyteWorkshop Thank you! Really appreciate the response! I will bite the bullet and go for it
No problem.
What is that little tool for setting cut width called? Really need one!
Are you referring to the original waste side jig? In which case you can find it at www.strawbyte.com
Thanks for your video. Why do you say a track saw would be better? Is this not just the same thing (except plunge cut?) More accurate?
Since making the review I now have the Makita Sp6000 tracksaw and I must say there's not much in it really and the circular saw with track is still the most cost effective way to cut with a track. The tracksaw has a thinner cut and you get the plunge advantage. The dust collection is better too but that's about it. Anyhow thanks for watching.
@@StrawbyteWorkshop Hi! Can you tell the difference between SP6000 and HS7601 noise-wise? HS7601 is supposed to be a bit more quiet. I'll be doing at least some of the work in my apartment, so I wonder if there is a difference.
@@szymek242 The SP6000 always seems quieter than the HS7601, but there's not much in it really - not enough to warrant the extra cost. Thanks for the sub.
@@StrawbyteWorkshop Very helpful. I think my price difference is $250 between a skill saw that suits their rail system and their track saw. Sounds like I will try to save those dollars. Thank you for your thoughts.
@@pinkrockshard thanks for the comment.
Interesting channel. I can’t watch many of my fellow Brits because of our awful accents, but you sir come across really well. Keep ‘em coming. 👍🏽
Thanks Simon.
I have been looking at this circular saw not 100% tho, I would make my own track. There is a titan track saw for £70 but something is telling me the Makita would be a better idea and maybe buy a better saw blade with more teeth , what do you think ? Chris
Hey there Chris. One thing I perhaps didn't mention in the video was that I picked-up the saw for around £110 from Amazon and was surprised how affordable Makita was. Clearly if you plan to make your own guide, then that's all you're going to pay. As for blades, the thing to remember is the tooth count will suit different sorts of cut. Lower tooth counts suit long rip cuts of solid timber. Higher tooth blades cuts cross cuts and man-made boards. The part number: B-08224 has 12 teeth. Part number B-08355 has 24 teeth and is a combination blade and you can get both in a set (part no. B-49367). And finally, B-08551 is a 60 tooth fine-cut blade. None of the makita blades are particularly expensive and I tend to prefer them over Freud or Diablo blades personally.
@@StrawbyteWorkshop Hi I purchased the saw 6 months ago think it was around £200 ohhhhh :(, I have made my own guide, in fact 3 times and every time its not quite straights expecially the the end (1-2 mm out) giving me endless sleepness nights. so i think spending the £120 odd pound for the track and adaptor will be worth.
@@StrawbyteWorkshop ps did you find the track with the saw 100% straight?
Straight enough I think. With a home made track I did find issues with the start and end of cut. There is less with the Makita guide rail.
@@StrawbyteWorkshop being on a track be surprised if there is any issues ... i come to notice them when i start making the holes for dowels then realise the holes dont quite go together at one end
I have a Makita circular saw model 5007nb will makita’s guide rail fit on this saw so I can use on the track?
I've had a question about this saw before as I think its a popular model in North America. However from what I can tell there isn't a rail adapter for this saw based on the instruction book (which doesn't list the adapter in the accessories section) and the design of your base plate.
Just talked to Makita there is nothing for my saw that will let it work with the tracks without buying a new saw
@@larrynolte9611 That's a shame. What's nice about my set-up is the guide is precise and allows you to reference the rubber splinter guard against you pencil line and cut to that.
What's nice about having a circular saw on the track is that you get more depth of cut from a larger blade and the circular saws are generally more powerful so can cut easily through denser timber. Anyway thanks for watching.
I know you are outside the United States but what model # of saw I
Do you have and the guide adapter?
Great video.. thanks!
Thanks very Conor. K.
ps did you really find the cut quality any different from the SP6000 and the HS7601 (with adaptor/rail)? would you say the tollerance tuo be less than 1/10th mm along the cut with the HS7601?
I think the quality of the cut is about the same between the two saws with their straight out of the box blades. It's worth saying that with the HS7601 and the guide rail adapter that you need to pay attention to get the saw running accurately and straight on the rail. It's easy to stick the adapter on and not check it's aligned to the markings correctly. I have done a job recently where I used both on the same counter top and there is no noticeable difference in the accuracy of the cuts along the rail if there is a 1/10th mm variance I can see it or and it looked about right when I checked with the tape afterwards. That job was an example of why I love have both saws because I get about 12mm extra depth of cut and on worktops which are 45-50mm thick, it makes a difference.
so did you find it at that level of tollerance? :)
@@StrawbyteWorkshop thanks, 1/10th mm seems very little but when using dowels its not, but if you think its less than 1/10thmm that should be fine then to buy
@@ChristopherClaudioSkierka I would say so, yes.
@@StrawbyteWorkshop ps was that a typo error when you said " ....rail if there is a 1/10th mm variance I can see it or and it looked about right when I checked with the tape afterwards" , did you mean to say " .....variance I cannot see...." ?
Great video thanks mate 👍
Glad you enjoyed it
Where can i buy the adapter
Lawson HIS. Link in description.
dude, but i havent ever try that both, but i watch many youtube, then i think the tracksaw is still next level technology till now, and its just a lil bit overprice, maybe bcause of the shipping process as it shape and size.
Tracksaws are a game changer in my view and I enjoy the process of making much more as a result. A home made guide is a great thing to have and isn't really a compromise. You can make them any length you like.
thanks for the info before, going to trouble you again now:) , I am about to order the track etc, now I am thinking of making an MFT table and you probable know they have these things called "dogs" which are usually stainless still and are at 90 degrees to the top of the table and guide track. Now I wonder ,, does the rail adaptor poke out on the far side?, since if it does it would hit these "dogs". I notice some of these guides do (the steel prongs that slide into the circular saw on the nearer to you. In your video could not make out the other side, only way it could of done if video was taken from above or the other side of the bench which would defeat the object of your video , not calling your video its dam good :)))) , many thanks in advance sir
Hi Christopher. The simile answer is no, the guide rail adapter doesn't interfere with anything at teh back side of the rail, including bench dogs. And thanks for all your comments.
@@StrawbyteWorkshop thank you for your time replying and the confirmation of the above matter.
👍 Christopher Claudio Skierka
The guiderail is actually better than the diy railguide but if your tight on budget this one is for you it will also do the same job youll just spend a little time correcting it during installation and finishing
Thanks for the comment.
Well, I firmly believe that you should have invested and saved a bit more and bought the plunge saw with the Bluetooth setup extractor or the plug in
you’ll be way much happier, and yes that this compromising its a way better investment and much more accurate in every way possible
Another thing you need to invest in is the TSO GRS-16PE That would be the ultimate setup look it up please
and as far the dust collection you would’ve not seen hardly any dust, but that a choice that you have to make
Best of luck
Thanks for the comment. Since the video was made I've bought the SP6000 and spent much more getting the dust collection right. The circular saw and rail guide still get used a fair amount is it has a much better depth of cut. As for the TSO guiderail square - I know many who are happy with them. But they're pricey and I wouldn't get the use. k.
@@StrawbyteWorkshop Hi, what did you do/buy then for the dust extraction? Thanks. Chris
What blade are you using in the makita? is it the stock tct one?
It was a almost new stock blade and looking back at the video it did surprisingly well against the other saw which was fitted with a specialist melamine blade.
How many RPM
Hi - I'm really not sure. Evolution mitre saws of that size have an RPM of 2500
..just sent link in previous message, going on it refers to being ok with the SP6000 and ahhh also its 150cm not 140cm,wish they make things more simple
Yes they've got both 1400 and 1500mm rails, plus a 1000mm rail too. It's not obvious but the 1500mm rail is super handy when cross cutting 1220mm (4 foot) sheets.
@@StrawbyteWorkshop so that other rail will work with the same adapter u think? And its just a different length that's all?
@@ChristopherClaudioSkierka Absolutely - just the length.
@@StrawbyteWorkshop thank you so much for your help
@@ChristopherClaudioSkierka No problem.
Sangat membantu brodher
Terima kasih
..hi again, sorry i am blind, just seen your link many thanks :)
No problem - we all have those moments where we can't see for looking. Thanks for your comments.
In the Makita the blade should be 48 teeth or 52 teeth for melamine cut boards i like yours diy guide rail great atachment...
Absolutely right. This was a brand new saw blade and its sharpness is evident in the cut. I now have a 48 tooth blade option for plywood and melamine. Thanks for watching.
Strawberry, good video!
Thanks George. I appreciate the comment.
Look at my "Parallel Guided Power Saw"
Hi David. I've taken a look but would appreciate it if you didn't drop comments on my videos plugging your stuff. A question or comment on the content of my video would be more courteous.
@@StrawbyteWorkshop ok
@@StrawbyteWorkshop Can you cut 1/2 plywood for a 9 sides pyramid? Do a demonstration.
@@StrawbyteWorkshop Can you cut a slide of wood 20 mills thick and 8 ft long.
@@davidmuresan628 With two guide rails joined together yes. Easily.
Too much talking and running in circles
Fair enough, it is a bit too chatty. Thanks for sticking with it tho.
Karl why didn’t you buy the Makita track saw to go with the rails?
Hi Craig. There is a huge price difference between the circular saw I bought and the tracksaw and at the time my need was to replace the circular saw I had with one with greater cutting capacity. It was a pleasant surprise to learn that the saw was compatible with the rail systems and makita rails are quite affordable. I've been really happy with the combination for the two years I've had them. I have upgraded to a tracksaw recently but still find the extra cutting capacity of the circular saw really useful - especially in outdoor projects (decking, planters and so on). So the saw came first, the rail second. Shorter rails as a consequence of a very small workshop. thanks for the comment and viewing the video.
Strawbyte Workshop Karl, I see your point. I have just bought the Makita track saw that came with 2 1400 rails specifically for trimming oak doors as previously I had been using a home made rail and Makita circular saw. The problem as you pointed out was that the saw is hard to keep to the line as it can wander as there is no mechanism on a home made rail to keep it straight. We shall see when I do the doors if it was a worthwhile purchase, I’m sure it will be as I can trim the door in one continual pass. Cheers