The plunge /track saw - what a brilliant tool . It's like having a v accurate table saw, and being able to take it to your work - not the other way round. My first one was a corded Makita, coming with two tracks and all the trimmings (minus the clamps which I found I didn't really need anyway). This was 12 years ago, in the UK. The first task for my new saw was to shape a 2" oak door blank, half prepared by a joiner shop - "The mugs on site can do the tricky bit" kind of scenario. The rectangular door blank had to have the top half shaped to fit a Gothic ( bullet) door frame. The saw, with it's new blade glided through the stuff, with no burn marks. I made two cuts to each side, and faired the rest with a belt sander. The coolest trick that this tool performs - is to remove 1/8"to 0" from the top of a polished, veneered door - with a perfect 90-degree cut, with zero spelch. In short, this is a must have. Does it have to be made by Festool ? Well yes - you could spend a load more £'s and get a few more bits and pieces - but basically it does the same thing. If I have one proviso, it is this - watch out for kick back . Squeeze the trigger and wait a second for the motor to get to maximum speed - before pushing the saw forward.
I've had the Festool TS 55 for more than a decade. I've done things I would never have thought of with it. It was expensive, as is almost everything in the UK, but I estimate it paid for itself in three jobs. I had 2 1400mm tracks and got a 2400mm track. I then cut down the 1400mm into 600mm and 800mm. These sizes are really useful for in situ countertop plunges and door trims. I run three blades so I'm always sharp have two guide rail clamps which can be very useful. Now there's choice but at the time it was practically only Festool and I've never regretted the purchase for a millisecond. Now I might think a lot more because if the variety. Thanks for the after use update.
I do have the corded version. I my opinion one of the best options people don't talk about often is that the Makita can do a 3mm fibre breaking cut before doing a full cut. Doing so you get a total perfect cut without any splintering of fibers at the top. When you have cuts where you want to have flawless cuts even on the top surface.
@@clearcut6818 I only mentioned it because the Festool does not have this function they use some sort of zero clearance insert Bosch has no option and I am not sure about Metabo.
I have the plug in variety Makita track saw. It is a constant source of joy. It is so smooth and quiet. So incredibly precise. Controlling routinely to a 1/64th". I have two tracks. One 9' for ripping sheet. and a 53" for cross cuts. Don't have to disconnect the two piece long track.
I just got off a conference call with Red Green, Larry the Cable Guy, and Tim Taylor (Home Improvement Guy) and we all agreed that your saw's dust collection can be improved (see 10:53 ) by utilizing an ingenious little device (no 3D printer required) called ............ drum roll ............... a piece of DUCT TAPE!!!..lol.
I have had the Festool TS55 for quite some time and have loved it but saw a need for a cordless one. All the research led me to the same conclusion as you, Makita. I actually had a lot of Makita cordless tools so for me it was the logical choice. I waited for it to go on sale and got 4 batteries and a track.
Tom Miller. I have the festool plunge saw and bought the festool cordless plunge saw. The festool cordless plunge saw drew power out of the batteries. The cordless plunge saw had more power than the corded version. My tools got stolen so I have been in the process of replacing tools. Stolen from my work vehicle. I was going to give my corded plunge saw away. Just as well I didn't. Adjusting the makita plunge saw. I'm hoping that's not hard to do. The railing system on the Bosch and mafel seem to be a better design than the festool, makita. I was told metabo are bringing out a plunge saw. Wait till the 40 volt makita and if hikoki make the 36 volt.
I’ve owned and used a Festool track saw heavily since 2001. Very nice saw and produces a beautiful cut. A couple of years ago I bought a cordless Makita track saw and I love it! I like it better than the Festool and highly recommend it. I sold the Festool saw to help offset the cost of the new Makita. The hose from the Festool vacuum fits the Makita perfectly and the tracks and clamps are interchangeable. I also like the anti tip feature of the Makita for 45 degree cuts. I also have the TSO track square and highly recommend it. John Jensen from British Columbia.
Ive had my cordless Makita Tracksaw over a year now. I started with the corded because I run Milwaukee and didn't want to add a 2nd battery platform. But I quickly went cordless and love it. Added a few Makita cordless routers to my line up since. I got a deal where a i got two 55" fences, 9 ft fence and 4 batteries. I cut one 55" fence in half to use with the square edge thing that clips on. Install wide plank pine floors with it.
@@saxyrep1 This is why I’m interested. I had a table saw and I had an accident with it. Yeah, you can have an accident with any saw but a track saw has more built I safety from where I’m standing.
How have I never seen a track saw before??? This thing is genius, it is like bringing the table saw to the wood, rather than the wood to the table saw. I can't cut straight to save my life, I need this.
I've had the Makita saw for ten yrs and it has never let me down. I've also used the Festool and while it's easier to make depth adjustments, I am convinced the Makita is a much better value for money tool. The Festools I have used have always cut out with a fraction of pressure on the brought on by unstable material that my Makita will cheerfully cut through, I think that is due to Festool trying to protect the longevity of the tool (which is always a pain in the ass when you're in the middle of an important cut because you're always left with an imperfect cut and have to do it again). But as I said my Makita has given me ten yrs of constant use and isn't showing any signs of tiredness (That is good longevity for any power tool these days). If you're not in a dedicated cabinet type workshop I honestly think the Festool track saw is an extravagance and definitely not worth the extra money!
I agree , festool it’s an extravagance in price , I have some festool tools and one comes to mind , the self clean vacuum at close to $1000 is dollars is a kick on the nuts.
Your unsolicited testimonial for the Makita track saw and guide comparing them to your dependable and expensive table saw sold me on the Makita track saw and guide. Thanks, great video.
I started off with the corded Makita track saw a few years ago, then thought I would add the cordless version to make things easier when getting power might be an issue - I very quickly stopped using the corded version as I think the 36v saw is better - I can't fault it in any respect. Just about to purchase the Makita 36v mitre saw.
I have had my Makita cordless track saw for about 2 years. I went through a similar selection process and ended up at Makita for the reasons you stated. I wanted the flexibility to integrate with Festool if I go that direction in the future. Also like you it was my gateway into the Makita cordless world since they had a promo giving two extra batteries with purchase. I have since added the impact, hammer drill, trim router, and reciprocating saw, all brushless. Regarding track lengths my experience is opposite of yours. I started with 2-55" tracks thinking it would cover me for working sheet goods. I added the 39" track as I was looking for a little more flexibility for making shorter cuts. I have found this smaller track to be invaluable, especially on a recent stair remodel. It was awesome for cutting out skirtboards as well as cutting the hardwood treads to length. I found I use the track saw much more by leaving the 39" track hanging handy in my shop. I am now contemplating splurging for the 118" track. I get good results joining the 2-55" tracks but sometimes need to make both crosswise and lengthwise cuts in full sheets and it can be a bit of a pain to take them apart and make sure they are straight again when re-joining. I would either sell one of my 55" tracks or cut it into smaller pieces. I have often seen the need for shorter tracks during remodel work. I don't regret buying my Sawtop PCS but on some projects the track saw makes the majority of cuts.
Good video. I bought a track saw first. Festool TS55 that I love. I later bought a used table saw. I agree that a good job site saw can work. There are, however a lot of great used hybrid and contractor table saw that can be picked up later when you find the right deal. Get a mobility kit and you have a pretty good option. I don't regret buying the track saw new. I will get years from it. A used table saw is a fantastic way to get one and there are a TON of them on the market. Also, for the job site saw, I would recommend getting one that can fit a dado stack. The table saw is AWESOME for joinery work.
Makita is grossly underrated they are not owned by some other company or come out of the same Factory as several brands of tools they are innovators in cordless technology inventions not to mention paved the way with battery efficiency pound for pound in dollar for dollar Makita is a safe bet on any tool
@@tapsulinka ok but makita is not a homeowner brand.. in fact makita's industrial tools and timber framing tools are as good or again industry standards Makita isn't over marketed like the other brands which are all owned by a few companies. Most of the many cordless tools other brands offer were in makita's catalog long before. Which professionals are you referring too? And for what reasons? Cheers
Im also unsure why anyone would claim makita tools aren't for professionals. I've had makita tools outlast and out perform many more expensive brands during my career. Festool & Hilti come to mind 1st.
It would be nice to see how you tune up your track saw to get the blade 90 to the reference surface. Also how the angle can change when you put it on the track.
I have recently downsized my shop, sold it and my property of 22 yrs.I have a 3 HP 500 pound 12" sliding table saw in storage. Now in a much smaller space until I get a new shop built. I was debating between a jobsite saw and a track system and which brand of either.. Decision made. Makita track saw and then the best (most accurate) jobsite saw ( Already had a disappointing purchase of the Saw Stop, returned unused in 72 hours for a grossly warped table top.) Thanks for the review and hands on, one year, no nonsense review. Liked and subscribed. Thanks.
I was in the market for a cordless track saw. Makita or Festool was the question ;-) But then I got a black Friday offer: Festool tsc 55, two batteries, charger, 1400mm (55 inch) track, two clamps, and a systainer. This offer was much cheaper than the same stuff from Makita. So my decision was clear, even with a bunch of Makita cordless stuff in my shop ;-) I'm happy with my Festool, long cut through 1.5-inch thick oak - no problem. But to be honest, I think the Makita would do the same good job.
Agree on your comment regarding- track saw with contractor saw…I’m a GC and use this combo all the time; got rid of my big Jet table saw. Would also recommend getting a good set of parallel guides for ripping repetitive cuts.
I bought one in April of 2019... I was already in the platform and a huge fan of Makita, but I’ve felt 100% satisfied with my purchase, every time I use it. It has saved me on odd jobs multiple times. The only thing that annoys me about it is setting the plunge depth. I just find it finicky to loosen the wing nut and slide the stop to the precise depth I’m looking for. From what I can tell, Festool did a better job on that feature... The great thing about Makita is that once you get 2 or 4 batteries, there are just so many excellent tools that become practical to purchase, which are reasonably affordable and tend to come with more and more batteries. I think I have around 16 Makita batteries at this point and I’d just rather have those than a couple Festool batteries and maybe a couple tools. Makita just makes tools that are smooth and comfortable to operate in my opinion... I also have the x2 Makita miter saw and I love that as well... And the chainsaw... First time seeing your channel. I enjoyed the video.
The makita batteries have outlasted every other battery platform I've ever tried. I've got almost 10 years on a pair of old 3ah 18v's and they still hold a charge like new, and last longer than any of my Dewalt, Milwaukee, Snap On, Matco, PC, etc.
Makita working well for 8 years, but heres the kicker..couldn’t help the bad pun. Im gonna get the new fesfool because of the kicks while ripping hardwood and 2x4s. The festool 28 tooth blade makes a big difference over the stock without losing much cut quality.
I own both, and the festool is better built and easier to use. They both get the job done but the festool has a 15% edge. If you doing this as a professional. Hands down festool, if your hobby/diy mikita. Tip... buy the festool saw and use mikita tracks to save on the cost of tracks. The mikita track work is perfect with festool
I just bought one. After running with a Festool for years. Very disappointed. I clearly got a lemon. The saw wants to cut away from the fence and can’t go 200 mm before it jams up and it has only done at most 20 meters of cutting. Just waiting to see a Makita’ s response for urgent repair or replacement .So far it hasn’t been great but that may be more the retailers attentiveness to the problem. I’ll find out soon and fill you in.
I own the 36v makita tracksaw and its been a very good tool to have. I totally agree that I'd buy a tracksaw before I'd buy a table saw. I bought a cheap rail square on amazon and its perfectly square. Just shows that expensive doesn't always mean quality... most of the time it does😂
Glad to hear that I am not alone... i also got the Makita and I love it. And Makita makes by far the best batteries... but they are also one of the most expensive when you buy them seperat, so always buy a machine with batteries when you need new or more.
I have two 52” cabinet saws (Sawstop 3hp PCS and Grizzly 1023)and a panel saw (Bosch) in my shop yet prefer to use my cordless Makita track saw for breaking down sheet goods. Over all it’s easy to use and has repeatedly surprised me with the quality and squareness of cuts that it makes. Also agree that the Makita branded blades are very good. I have thus far refrained from going Festool mainly for the same reasons stated price vs. performance increase but I am entrenched in the Makita system and have many of their tools.
Nice review! 🙏 Track saws are quite versatile, I’ve had my TS 75 for the las 7 years, I also had the TSC 55 and now I have the Mafell MT 55 18v, and that is a dream machine. The Metabo KT 66 18v has started to be my saw of choice as of late. I took the Makita and the Mafell as loaners before making my decision. With no disrespect for Makita, there was no comparison. The Metabo for the money is probably the hardest deal to beat, 2x 8Ah batteries, their fast charger (47 mins) and a 160cm rail for less than €900, that is hard to beat. Makita kit is €400 + €390 2x 6Ah with DUAL charger (65 mins) + €100 for the track... €890 and you get about 105m linear cuts (tested on OSB 21mm) I get 160m linear with the 8Ah batteries on the MT 55 and 167m linear on the Metabo. If I was staring out, or knew someone staring out, I would recommend the Metabo for the price, longer times and and deeper cuts. ✌️
I sold my Makita but I agree with you about squaring the blade to the base plate / shoe. It’s a huge pain in the a$$. I also didn’t like how the cam locks to keep the saw on the rib would loosen up on me. I would get a cut that was off and that was the problem. I ordered the TSC55, still waiting on it, because of the riving knife and the fact I can use one battery I choose so. Was happy with the Makita most of the time. I also sold my table saw and am looking at getting a nice contractor saw. I didn’t need the Ridgid hybrid cabinet saw anymore. Hardly got used once I got the Makita TS. Thanks for the follow-up.
Solid advice all around, I've been a getter done kinda shop for many years, rustic furnishings, so I'm dealing with slabs, oddball wood, logs, etc, combined cabinetry some of the time. You can get a lot of work done with a good chopsaw, good portable planer, festool domino (XL if you can only afford one), track saw for sheet goods, and a good job site table saw. I've had several table saws including Delta unisaw, my current table saw is the semi portable Delta contractor saw and it cuts true, I'm happy with it. Go with the Makita track especially if already have Makita batteries. If I were choosing between Milwaukee and Makita I would go with Makita for a number of woodworking tool options only Makita makes. Milwaukee is great for contractors, homebuilders etc though. Only DeWalt anything I would get is their planer.
I had the Makita track saw and i had issues with the saw binding up when cutting 1 inch oak and also its like the blade would slip like the clutch would stop it , I finally bought the Festool TSC 55 and I tell you I had no issues and i use it a lot and I don't know what the difference between the two besides the festool have a riving knife but it cuts great and accurate and powerful
I bought a Grizzly 3 HP cabinet saw some 30 years ago, it’s still perfect. I am know looking to get the Makita track saw kit, it’s more expensive then my Grizzly G1023Z. Nowadays, I have to get on a waiting list to get a track saw. Times they are a changing.
I do not recommend getting 2 55" tracks. I have 2 55" makita tracks and they don't line up. I also have 3 festool tracks and the TS75. The best thing with any brand is to get a short, medium and long track. That way you're guaranteed a straight cut. Saws? I'm probably going to sell my TS75 and use the makita exclusively. It connects easily to my festool vac and the Bluetooth bottom strapped to the end makes starting it a breaze. The auto start with the TS75 will not be missed. Also the scoring cut knob is way cool. You can set your full depth cut and forget about it. Pull the scoring knob out, do a backwards scoring cut, push in the knob then do a full depth cut. You won't even need a splinter guard if you cut with good parallel guides.
Excellent video. I bought the Makita and I noticed it did not cut an accurate 90 degrees right out of the box; so I would caution first time buyers to check for squareness before cutting something important.
You're the 3rd person to recommend a track saw over a table saw (if you had to choose). So, that's what I'm going to do. For the purposes of space and money, I'm going to go with this Makita track saw. I'll decide on a job-site table saw later on down the road. This track saw seems to be able to cover all the bases. Although, I'm surprised no one is talking about the Kreg track saw. Apparently, Makita, Festool, and Mafell are the track saws pro's are going with. The only other info I think I would need, are the mandatory accessories... GREAT video!
Avoid the Kreg. Go with Festool or Makita (Mafell is great) since all accessories are made for the Festool/Makita pattern tracks. TSO Products makes great accessories
I appreciate this review, Robert. I am still undecided between the Makita and the Festool but this certainly helps. A couple of questions: 1. Why does one have to calibrate the squareness of the saw? What moves out of position? Surely it isn’t necessary right out of the box? 2. Would you give a brief rundown on how one actually would calibrate the squareness, please? 3. I have a Makita string trimmer. Came with the DC 18 RC charger and two 3.0 A h batteries. Would I be able to use those batteries in the saw? I notice you are using the 5.0 A hr batteries. I guess those would last much longer than the 3.0 ‘s. 4. If I purchase a couple of the 5.0 A h batteries, would you know if the charger I have would be able to charge them, or would I need to purchase a new charger as well. Thanks. And keep up the good work.
I stumble onto your channel. Funny you should mentioned toward the end about choosing the tools. I have a job site table saw and just recently bought the mikita track saw and because I was struggling to cut sheet goods. And I just happen to have very small space. haha. That's good recommendation.
I've been using the Makita 7600 for 10+ years and love it. I do like the idea of a cordless but when the corded works fine, I'm not going to get approval to buy a 2nd saw from the boss. :-)
I think you just sold my on the Makita. I am just a hobby wood worker. But I build Model Train layouts. So I am looking for a tool to brake down flat goods like 3\4" ply. However at this time the Festool is a little out of my price range. It's looks like I am going to get a Makita. Thanks.
It baffles me how track saws are all built right blade. When it comes to circ saws, it's usually preference based, with a few "safety" aspects. With a track saw, however, it should be designed as : Blade Left for righties. Blade Right for lefties. As a former lefty, I loved it. It was the one tool where a lefty could look at a righty, and stick out our tongue and say "See what it's like for us?!?!?!" Hahaaa. But after a virus took my left arm leg function, I had to become a righty. And cutting straight lines (safely) became a nightmare. No table saws. Maybe a bandsaw. A jigsaw, and circ saw were my only options. Because only having a right arm, made a track saw with a right blade, pretty much impossible. So from my perspective, being on both sides of the blade, a track saw is the only circular saw where Blade location truly matters. Yet there is no such thing as a Blade Left Track Saw. (Yeah, the one Kreg makes is a steaming pile of 💩. But it's to be expected, since Kreg isn't a brand I'd associate with precision and quality. They have great innovation, but poor execution. If they upped their quality, and spent more on manufacturing their products (and a higher retail price obviously) they could be great.) So, next time any righties out there using a track saw have to drench, lean, cross arms, climb upon your workpiece... imaging if it were a Blade Left. And how you could rip a sheet of plywood with one arm, simply by walking beside it and holding the saw. (For naysayers: I get it. "I've never had an issue before." Well, that's just because you have nothing to compare it to. Festool made a track saw, and everyone just started copying it. Then copying copies. And so on. .... "Well if you lay your track down right, and the splinter guard is on your line, then it doesn't matter where the blade side is." Sure, but then your guide rail, and saw are resting on your cutoff. .... "But I've always used right blades." Well, that's great. But if you always eat cold bologna sandwiches, then you'll never know how good a fresh porterhouse can taste. Lol. ) If you can find a lefty using a track saw, watch them. They're using a Blade Right, and it's effortless. They have it made with track saws. Leo over at Hand-I-Craft is a 1 armed woodworker like myself. But he has only his left hand. Check out his use of a (Festool) Track Saw, and how easy his cuts are. Makita, Bosch, Dewalt, and even Festool, are missing out on selling thousands and thousands if saws, simply because they refuse to think about blade location as more than just personal preference. Also, make track saws 7-¼" people!!! 45° cuts shouldn't require us to bury the entire blade.
Totally agree. We bought a Makita for our shop. We got the corded version which will kick if used carelessly. (Not that I would EVER do that 🙄.) It’s a great saw; durable, powerful, smooth. I’ll be buying a second one for my home shop. Gripes: the track should be around 65” so it can break down metric sheets. Dust chute could be better placed. Depth adjustment is a little janky.
I am cabinet maker/millworker......no way I would give up my table saw. Powematic 10" 5hp plus 10" Delta Unisaw. Thoes saws coupled with 4' x 8' outfeed table at the minimum allow you to get work done well! Great to have both, One arbor tips left, the other right. Keep a true rip blade on one and a great cross cut on the other. My PM 2000 weights 700lbs....work horse l day,, all night. You don't fight quality equipment, it makes your, life/job easier...!! The table saw is the true heart of real wood work! When they bury me, thoes saws will still be breezing through 3" maple..... Make up your owen masonite/ plywood tracks to any length you wish. And dedicate a high quality skill saw and blade ....and there you go for pennys compared to festool, with total accuracy. To each his own. Thoes portable saws won't hold to heavy use and have tiny little fences.....but I do like them on the job site. just jim
Oh I’m absolutely not giving up my cabinet saw. I’m just saying that if you’re just building a shop. I’d say get a tracksaw before a big cabinet saw if you have a decent Jobsite saw. Having both is just iceing on the cake. I made my own DIY tracks for a circular saw for years before getting a tracksaw. Yes it does the same-ish thing but it’s like me sawing a Jobsite table saw can do the same thing as a 3hp cabinet saw.
Speed control If I find the saw it cutting out while say ripping with wrong blade I turn the speed down it reduces the speed but increases torque so no cutting out and can do rip in one pass
Buying a new track saw and table saw on a limited budget. Went with a Skil worm drive SPT99-11 table saw because it has a rack and pinion fence, and I figured it would be the closest to a cabinet saw's power and torque at a sub $700 price point. As for track saws, debating between Makita and Kreg. This video was very helpful and has me leaning towards Makita (corded version).
I would recommend the Makita over the Kreg primarily because they use Festool pattern tracks which opens up the ability to get all the aftermarket accessories in the future
I love my Makita. I have had it for about 2 years. Don't own one Festool yet. I am 64 years of age and have bought every other brand in the universe. Maybe I have missed the boat but somehow I don't think so!! Thanks for the video !
Chipshot442 I'm also 64 and have been doing construction and woodworking for over 40 years. I've had a chance to try friends Festools and have generally found them to be tremendously over priced with lots of cheap plastic parts. I've loved just about all the Makita tools I've used! I don't think you have "missed the boat".
@@terrygoyan Thank you so much Terry. My first impression of the Festool was that it had a lot of plastic parts and it seemed to be cheap. After watching the Inside Carpenter and finding out that he has burned up two Festool Mitre Saws and he went back to DeWalt I felt a little better about purchasing the Bosch 12" top of the line Mitre saw for my shop at around 600.00 and not 1200.00. I believe in purchasing great tools for great prices but I still think from what I am hearing that the Festools are way over priced. Thanks for your response.
@@terrygoyan - “Cheap plastic parts” are made of polycarbonate (Lexan). You can beat them with a hammer and no breakage. My saw is quite new but i regularly see saws that are 10-12 years old and they are still going strong with consistent 1mm accuracy.
Unless you are going to be using the track saw in places where connecting to AC power isn't possible/practical, I just don't see the advantage of a battery powered track saw. And I say this as someone who already has the DeWalt 60V cordless circular saw, so I don't have anything against cordless saws. When used in a shop with dust collection, the vacuum hose is way more of an encumbrance than a cord. Plus if you use some velcro strips to hold the cord to the vacuum hose, the ease of use would be identical between the corded and cordless. If you use a dust extractor that has an outlet that the cord can plug into both the hose and cord go to the same place. Also when you pull the trigger on the track saw, the dust extractor turns on and then turns off turns off a few seconds after you release the trigger. True you can get a dust extractor with Bluetooth and then put a Bluetooth button around the end of the hose connected to the saw you can accomplish close to the same thing. But that just adds more expense to an already more expensive system. Since the corded version is substantially cheaper and there is no worry about not having charged batteries available (not to mention the cost of replacing batteries once they have been recharged a maximum number of times) I can't see why I shouldn't go with the corded version. So what am I missing that makes the battery version worth the additional cost? BTW, thanks for your review and insights into the Makita track saw. I am trying to set up a shop without a tablesaw, and hope that a high quality track saw along with an MFT workbench and some accessories (bench dogs, fence, angle jigs, etc) along with a sliding miter saw, router (free and in a router table) and a bandsaw will allow me to do all of the cuts that otherwise would be done on a table saw. The track saw is likely to be key to replicating what a tablesaw can do, and so I am really sweating whether to go with the Makita or to "buy once, cry once" and take the plunge and go with the Festool. Reviews like yours are helping me to feel confident that the Makita will make the same quality of cuts, even if it doesn't have all the same bells and whistles as the Festool. So thank you very much.
I've had the Makita for 6 months it's a brilliant tool. I've kept my Festool as a back up. Wish I'd bought the Makita earlier. The fine blade cut is great even on countertop face up.
The Makita brand blades are excellent. I’ve gone through 6/4 walnut with the 56t fine finish blades. (I’m lazy and never change my blades to suite the task)
I originally had the Bosch corded tracksaw and I was happy with it except for the fact that the tracks were a bit flimsy. I sold it as I began doing more jobsite work and less in the workshop. I purchased the Makita 36v brushless tracksaw and I am very happy with it. It is ideal for breaking down sheets of mdf, plywood and osb. The lock that holds the saw onto the track is a gift for bevel cuts. I find it a bit under powered when cutting hardwood doors to length. If I was processing slabs in a workshop I'd buy the Festool TS75. I recently purchased the Makita 36v brushless vacuum, it is the cordless/corded version. Sadly Makita don't make a 36v brushless vacuum that can use mains power and has the built in AWS, 🙄 One can buy an adaptor but it's expensive.
I think the speed control is more for cutting metals and other materials. I love my Makota tracksaw. The Makita blades are great but I found some 40 tooth diablo finish blades for $11.99 for a 2 pack and i have a few of those now!
For the people concerned about the lack of a riving knife. There's this thing called a shim, try sticking it in the cut, like an actual carpenter would!
Problem with having different length tracks is that the profile is a slight bit different between the models. You will have to tighten up your screws every time you move between sizes. Pretty shitty quality control to be honest, but I only use the medium size and sometimes two joined together so it doesnt really affect me
Great video. I have the Makita track saw with two 55” tracks and love it. My only complaint so far is the dust port does not connect to Makita’s cordless mini HEPA dust collector. I need to see if Makita makes some obscure adapter for it. It’s BS I have to hunt down one.
That is frustrating. That’s where festool has the advantage. All their dust ports are standardized to their hoses. The small festool hose does fit inside the Makita dust port. FYI. I decided on the CT26 after a lot of thought. It is very nice and I’m happy with that choice
The quality and reliability of the Festool is unsurpassed. My TS 55 is now 4 years old and used constantly. Never had to calibrate it and stayed absolutely accurate. And i bumped and accidentally dropped the saw several times. Working hard figured wood with no kickbacks. And all the accessories from the Festool system work seamless. I were so impressed that I recently bought a TS75 and this monster is even better. Yep. Festool is expensive but you get value for your money. Aftercare service I’ve been told is excellent ( I’ve never needed it personally). Same with the table saw you choose. Nothing come close to a SawStop. If you value your fingers.
I've never understood the need for a TS75. Any panel work can be done with a 6.5" blade with ease. The rare instance that you are going through solid wood with a big blade, you could just use a regular straight edge and clean up with a hand plane.
Good review thanks. It's funny how there is so much feedback about tracksaws and their tracks and plenty on the guide rail squares but very little feedback on parallel guide systems. I bought the Seneca brand and find them pretty quick once calibrated and essential when cutting out parts for cabinets. I also use them or one in conjunction with a square. So far it's the closest thing to a true cabinet saw (full sliding table) which I have used to 18 years.
I thought a track saw was a tool I'd want corder as I'd anyways have it hanging on the vac, but this makes me really wonder if I should just get the Makita cordless over the festool corded I was eyeing - this way I have money to spare on extra batteries and if I need to make long cuts I can take it in the courtyard without worrying about schlepping extension cords along.
Even with 95% shop use I’m glad I went cordless. Yes I almost always use dust collection it like you’re saying sometimes there’s that awkward or convenient cut that a cord or hose makes needlessly more difficult.
I have not seen the video yet, but I was going through the same and I went with Makita. Now I have two Makita track saws - corded and cordless one. Never regret it. Festool is great for Dominos' but for everything else, there is a better competitor.
Has anyone had trouble with excessive play in the main hinge/plunge mechanism between the saw and the shoe on their Makita track saw? I was having troubles with cut accuracy, and eventually I ended up grazing the side of my 118” track due to a wandering cut. In diagnosing the issue, I found that the saw fits into a machined pocket on the shoe, and the two components are connected with a hinge pin. The machined pocket has noteable tolerance (~0.015”) allowing the saw to shift back and forth along the hinge pin. I ended up disassembling my saw to install a shim that I fabricated from a grade 8 washer. This shim removed the excessive tolerance, and the saw now works flawlessly. I recently visited ACME tools, and noticed that the display model had the same issue. Just curious if this is an isolated issue, or if others have experienced something similar.
I had used the Makita saw and tracks for many years and been happy with it/them. I noticed during a project recently however that the cuts were strangely no longer accurate. I finally noticed that the base of the saw (even though it is cast) has distorted so that the corners away from the blade edge are about 1/8 in out of level with the rest of the base. Don't know how that could happen. I purchased a Festool TS55 and am kicking myself for not getting one earlier - the quality and ease of use is so much better than the Makita. Big bonus is I can use the TS55 on the Makita tracks, just put new a new sacrificial strip on and of off you go.
Aren’t you being a bit unfair giving unearned praise to the Festool? It hasn’t proved itself in your woodworking operations as well as the Makita has for many years. The Makita gave you many years of good service and desired results. It’s likely the Festool will, too. Let’s wait and see.
After a near serious accident. Sawstop. I'm saving up to replace both my cabinet saw and Jobsite saw. I have a Ridgid Jobsite saw. With a rolling stand and it is a very good tablesaw. I feel I could get by with it as an only table saw. Many friends have the Dewalt saw and say the same thing. I had two of the current Metabo saws, both had a lot of slop and the first one broke within 90days. I returned the replacement very soon
I don't have a track saw... Yet. I have a pretty decent older Delta cabinet saw. I just recently bought the Domino (in May). I debated on it or a track saw. I ended up getting the domino and the Kreg AccuCut. I do not think very highly of it. I've been wanting the Festool track saw for a while. Dust collection is going to be a huge drive for me. I've also considered upgrading my table saw to a SawStop. After watching this I'm thinking maybe the track saw would be the better buy. I'm curious now if the dust collection is a lot better. And I'm curious the "out the door" cost difference would be
I'm looking at track saws as a cheap alternative to a SawStop table saw. I really don't want to be another person injured by a table saw. I've never owned or used a super high quality table saw but I'm pretty sure they are all capable of hurting you for the slightest misstep.
Like anything else, yes they can hurt you, but your car can cripple or kill you....but I am not walking......I really believe that driving is the most dangerous thing we do.....! I love my big smooth table saw, but I know it can give me the carbide kiss at any moment....!
Exactly what I was looking for. I am choosing between DeWalt, Makita and Festool and I think I will go with the Makita because I am in EU and DeWalt costs a lot and it seems a bit stupid with their plunge mechanism and adjustments (I have corded dewalt stuff and really like it). The Festool costs like 150 euros than the Makita (same config sets with batteries etc). So I guess this makita will work well for going to the lumber store and cutting the plywood in half so it would fit in the car so I can later cut it precise on my table saw and overall rip plywood to smaller pieces.
@@DaileyWoodworks But have you tried something like the dewalt circular saw dcs576 that has the track support but is still a circular? I wonder now how accurate will those be, provided I do not care about the dust. And how often will I need to adjust the blade to be parallel.
As a professional Tradesman, I have a red line with what tools I want cordless and which ones I don't. When the Lithium batteries will only have approx 2000 charges before they are toast, all my heavily used tools must be 120volt so as to not waste the batteries, even though I have 12 Makita batteries and 5 chargers I still wont use heavily used tools of the cordless type.
I might be mistaken, but I believe the speed control is for really dense woods and for cutting metal sheet goods not more then a 16th thick. But I could be wrong.
I purchase the Miata for the sake reasons. I also have the makita miter saw so it made even more sense in battery commonality. I like it but dislike the metric only gauges. Makita didn’t care enough about it’s US buyers to make a coni gauge. Also I dislike the bevel controls that requires two adjustments. That being said, ACME tool had a special fir $499. 4 batteries . 3 tracks, the sustainers, and free shipping. The comparable Festool was $1200 similarly equipped. What I like about the Makita is it’s speed and overall quality fir the price. Would I like a Festool? Sure. But after using one a few times….I do believe the Festool is a better ergonomic design. But it’s slower and more costly.
Get the Festool vac and just get the Makita wireless adapter that you can plug into the Festool. Makita WUT02U Autostart wireless universal adapter. You also would have to get the wireless transmitter to install into the saw itself if it doesn't have it already.
Nic review . I have the corded Makita track - bought it before they came out with the cordless version. My next track saw will be cordless for sure, probably another Makita. I also have the cordless Makita palm sander which I love. You mention an adapter so it can run on the Makita guide rail. Haven’t seen that, so if you can point me to where I can buy one or a part number, that would be great. Thanks
I feel the same way. Great follow-up review and nice to see how things work after 1 year. Value for the money was key on my choice for buying the Makita. We are fortunate to live in a time when there are solid alternatives to purchase. I have 2 of the 55" tracks, and the TSO connector for the tracks coming and will soon purchase the GRS-16 Guide Rail Square.
I just ordered the Parf Guide system from TSO to make a MFT top for my workbench. They unfortunately were out of stock of they're guides. But I'll be adding them soon as well
Totally agree I ve got the same saw and run both Makita and festool tools,because I’ve got a lot of Makita cordless tools and for me it was an easy choice ,I ve got a Festool ts 55 mains also which is really good saw but I always use the cordless ! Makita is great on price compared to the extortionate price of the festool!
I bought it, it was expensive and then I had to buy the ten foot fence and the pieces to connect them and the blades cost 100 dollars, it's a good tool but you have to need it to make it pay, there are so many ways to accomplish the same thing and all the tools in the world won't make up for lack of experience
And i loved my Kreg track saw until watching your video. But must admit been looking at the Festool battery powered model even thought a power cord in my shop doesnt bother me not taking it in a job site
Now I’ll preface that Festool just released a new version. But I’ve been helping a friend set up his new cabinet shop and have been using his older corded TS55. I have not been impressed and free my Makita cuts much better. Maybe he needs a new blade but it’s still hard for me to justify the premium. That coming from the guy who just impulse bought a $249 “limited edition” Festool bit set.
Great vid, love my makita track saw. Check out strawbyte workshop. Has three great little things to improve it. The dust cover for the side, a little depth gauge improvement to add in the track as well as a kerf measure, so you can add the kerf tool under the track and it adds in the 1.6mm when aligning.
I own 2 Makita drill kits and one is about 5 years old & the other about 10 years old. Although I would love to buy the Makita track saw, I do want to make the switch over to the Milwaukee drill kits. I've seen that Milwaukee has a track saw (CS 85 CBE) but its only available in the EU I believe, but I did read that Milwaukee is going to announce a track saw for the US either late this year 2020 or sometime in spring 2021 which would be awesome. I've always wanted the Festool track saw but, but its like the Apple of the tool world, Expensive.
Robert, I completely agree. I've had the corded version (SP6000j) for 3 years, and love the saw and the results. I've recently sold my saw, and am looking at the battery powered versions. My application is an in-place shop, so portability is not an issue for me. Makita now has a 40 volt version, so my question is do you think the difference between the 36v and 40V is needed or worth the cost difference?
i had the 18V x 2 and now I have the 40V version, it's very similar, the 40V is silent and battery last longer but if you already have de 18V don't worth the upgrade. I only changed because I sold the 18v x 2 to a friend of mine.
They needed to fire the engineer that designs the dust ports years ago. I have a work horse Makita planer and have the same problem with not getting a hose to fit on it. Love the planer but not so having to duct tape a rigged line to it.
Did it kick back during a plunge? I have the TS55 and it definitely needs to be held very securely on harder materials, especially on shallow cutting depths
I've watched this multiple times and have enjoyed how thorough it is. I want to purchase a makita corded track saw. Do you recommend this type as well? More so than $$$$$ festool?
ok. please tell us if you ever checked if your cuts are really straight - when cutting hardwood 2inch :) because this is a common issue on track saws :)
The plunge /track saw - what a brilliant tool . It's like having a v accurate table saw, and being able to take it to your work - not the other way round. My first one was a corded Makita, coming with two tracks and all the trimmings (minus the clamps which I found I didn't really need anyway). This was 12 years ago, in the UK.
The first task for my new saw was to shape a 2" oak door blank, half prepared by a joiner shop - "The mugs on site can do the tricky bit" kind of scenario. The rectangular door blank had to have the top half shaped to fit a Gothic ( bullet) door frame. The saw, with it's new blade glided through the stuff, with no burn marks. I made two cuts to each side, and faired the rest with a belt sander. The coolest trick that this tool performs - is to remove 1/8"to 0" from the top of a polished, veneered door - with a perfect 90-degree cut, with zero spelch.
In short, this is a must have. Does it have to be made by Festool ? Well yes - you could spend a load more £'s and get a few more bits and pieces - but basically it does the same thing.
If I have one proviso, it is this - watch out for kick back . Squeeze the trigger and wait a second for the motor to get to maximum speed - before pushing the saw forward.
I've had the Festool TS 55 for more than a decade. I've done things I would never have thought of with it. It was expensive, as is almost everything in the UK, but I estimate it paid for itself in three jobs. I had 2 1400mm tracks and got a 2400mm track. I then cut down the 1400mm into 600mm and 800mm. These sizes are really useful for in situ countertop plunges and door trims. I run three blades so I'm always sharp have two guide rail clamps which can be very useful. Now there's choice but at the time it was practically only Festool and I've never regretted the purchase for a millisecond.
Now I might think a lot more because if the variety.
Thanks for the after use update.
I do have the corded version.
I my opinion one of the best options people don't talk about often is that the Makita can do a 3mm fibre breaking cut before doing a full cut. Doing so you get a total perfect cut without any splintering of fibers at the top.
When you have cuts where you want to have flawless cuts even on the top surface.
Even the $100 wen plunge saw has that function.
@@clearcut6818 I only mentioned it because the Festool does not have this function they use some sort of zero clearance insert Bosch has no option and I am not sure about Metabo.
@@clearcut6818 no, it doesn't have it, stop talking BS.
@@mrki412 just check a Wen track saw. Yes, it has it.
@@clearcut6818 I'm not talking about Wen, we don't have that brand in EU, I'm talking about cheaper brands and even some more expensive then Makita.
I have the plug in variety Makita track saw. It is a constant source of joy. It is so smooth and quiet. So incredibly precise. Controlling routinely to a 1/64th". I have two tracks. One 9' for ripping sheet. and a 53" for cross cuts. Don't have to disconnect the two piece long track.
Your honesty is fresh
I just got off a conference call with Red Green, Larry the Cable Guy, and Tim Taylor (Home Improvement Guy) and we all agreed that your saw's dust collection can be improved (see 10:53 ) by utilizing an ingenious little device (no 3D printer required) called ............ drum roll ............... a piece of DUCT TAPE!!!..lol.
I have had the Festool TS55 for quite some time and have loved it but saw a need for a cordless one. All the research led me to the same conclusion as you, Makita. I actually had a lot of Makita cordless tools so for me it was the logical choice. I waited for it to go on sale and got 4 batteries and a track.
Tom Miller. I have the festool plunge saw and bought the festool cordless plunge saw. The festool cordless plunge saw drew power out of the batteries. The cordless plunge saw had more power than the corded version. My tools got stolen so I have been in the process of replacing tools. Stolen from my work vehicle. I was going to give my corded plunge saw away. Just as well I didn't. Adjusting the makita plunge saw. I'm hoping that's not hard to do. The railing system on the Bosch and mafel seem to be a better design than the festool, makita.
I was told metabo are bringing out a plunge saw. Wait till the 40 volt makita and if hikoki make the 36 volt.
I’ve owned and used a Festool track saw heavily since 2001. Very nice saw and produces a beautiful cut. A couple of years ago I bought a cordless Makita track saw and I love it! I like it better than the Festool and highly recommend it. I sold the Festool saw to help offset the cost of the new Makita. The hose from the Festool vacuum fits the Makita perfectly and the tracks and clamps are interchangeable. I also like the anti tip feature of the Makita for 45 degree cuts. I also have the TSO track square and highly recommend it.
John Jensen from British Columbia.
Ive had my cordless Makita Tracksaw over a year now. I started with the corded because I run Milwaukee and didn't want to add a 2nd battery platform. But I quickly went cordless and love it. Added a few Makita cordless routers to my line up since. I got a deal where a i got two 55" fences, 9 ft fence and 4 batteries. I cut one 55" fence in half to use with the square edge thing that clips on. Install wide plank pine floors with it.
Speed control is needed for cutting PVC and composit so it does not burn/melt the material. Nice video. I love Makita and Festool.
I've cut composite decking & vinyl flooring with my table saw, which spins faster then any track saw, and it cuts them great, no burning or melting.
I absolutely love my Makita corded and 3 tracks for last 3 years, replaced my table saw almost completely!
Yeah ! I've sold my table saw and only use my Dewalt corded tracksaw and miter saw. Don't miss it at all...
@@saxyrep1 This is why I’m interested. I had a table saw and I had an accident with it. Yeah, you can have an accident with any saw but a track saw has more built I safety from where I’m standing.
Just ordered mine today and I can’t wait.
The Bosch vacuum hose will fit perfectly with the Makita and Festool
Thanks, that’s good to know
How have I never seen a track saw before??? This thing is genius, it is like bringing the table saw to the wood, rather than the wood to the table saw. I can't cut straight to save my life, I need this.
It is truly an amazing tool. I use mine everywhere and for almost everything
I've had the Makita saw for ten yrs and it has never let me down. I've also used the Festool and while it's easier to make depth adjustments, I am convinced the Makita is a much better value for money tool.
The Festools I have used have always cut out with a fraction of pressure on the brought on by unstable material that my Makita will cheerfully cut through, I think that is due to Festool trying to protect the longevity of the tool (which is always a pain in the ass when you're in the middle of an important cut because you're always left with an imperfect cut and have to do it again).
But as I said my Makita has given me ten yrs of constant use and isn't showing any signs of tiredness (That is good longevity for any power tool these days).
If you're not in a dedicated cabinet type workshop I honestly think the Festool track saw is an extravagance and definitely not worth the extra money!
I agree , festool it’s an extravagance in price , I have some festool tools and one comes to mind , the self clean vacuum at close to $1000 is dollars is a kick on the nuts.
I TOTALLY DISAGREE. (Only because I bought the Festool and am far too proud to admit that I've been had.)
I agree
Your unsolicited testimonial for the Makita track saw and guide comparing them to your dependable and expensive table saw sold me on the Makita track saw and guide. Thanks, great video.
I think your review has sold the Makita for me. Thanks for a great review 👍. Love Makita cordless tools.
I started off with the corded Makita track saw a few years ago, then thought I would add the cordless version to make things easier when getting power might be an issue - I very quickly stopped using the corded version as I think the 36v saw is better - I can't fault it in any respect. Just about to purchase the Makita 36v mitre saw.
Yes. For 90% of what I do a corded would be fine. But being able to go cordless for that 10% is very nice
I have had my Makita cordless track saw for about 2 years. I went through a similar selection process and ended up at Makita for the reasons you stated. I wanted the flexibility to integrate with Festool if I go that direction in the future. Also like you it was my gateway into the Makita cordless world since they had a promo giving two extra batteries with purchase. I have since added the impact, hammer drill, trim router, and reciprocating saw, all brushless. Regarding track lengths my experience is opposite of yours. I started with 2-55" tracks thinking it would cover me for working sheet goods. I added the 39" track as I was looking for a little more flexibility for making shorter cuts. I have found this smaller track to be invaluable, especially on a recent stair remodel. It was awesome for cutting out skirtboards as well as cutting the hardwood treads to length. I found I use the track saw much more by leaving the 39" track hanging handy in my shop. I am now contemplating splurging for the 118" track. I get good results joining the 2-55" tracks but sometimes need to make both crosswise and lengthwise cuts in full sheets and it can be a bit of a pain to take them apart and make sure they are straight again when re-joining. I would either sell one of my 55" tracks or cut it into smaller pieces. I have often seen the need for shorter tracks during remodel work. I don't regret buying my Sawtop PCS but on some projects the track saw makes the majority of cuts.
Great insight. Thank you for sharing
Good video. I bought a track saw first. Festool TS55 that I love. I later bought a used table saw. I agree that a good job site saw can work. There are, however a lot of great used hybrid and contractor table saw that can be picked up later when you find the right deal. Get a mobility kit and you have a pretty good option. I don't regret buying the track saw new. I will get years from it. A used table saw is a fantastic way to get one and there are a TON of them on the market. Also, for the job site saw, I would recommend getting one that can fit a dado stack. The table saw is AWESOME for joinery work.
Makita is grossly underrated they are not owned by some other company or come out of the same Factory as several brands of tools they are innovators in cordless technology inventions not to mention paved the way with battery efficiency pound for pound in dollar for dollar Makita is a safe bet on any tool
Yes, it can be "safe bet" but it is not the best and not for professionals
@@tapsulinka ok but makita is not a homeowner brand.. in fact makita's industrial tools and timber framing tools are as good or again industry standards
Makita isn't over marketed like the other brands which are all owned by a few companies. Most of the many cordless tools other brands offer were in makita's catalog long before. Which professionals are you referring too? And for what reasons?
Cheers
@@tapsulinka how is it not for professionals? Look up Scott Brown carpentry here on UA-cam, pro builder uses it everyday.
Great point.
Im also unsure why anyone would claim makita tools aren't for professionals. I've had makita tools outlast and out perform many more expensive brands during my career. Festool & Hilti come to mind 1st.
It would be nice to see how you tune up your track saw to get the blade 90 to the reference surface. Also how the angle can change when you put it on the track.
I have recently downsized my shop, sold it and my property of 22 yrs.I have a 3 HP 500 pound 12" sliding table saw in storage. Now in a much smaller space until I get a new shop built. I was debating between a jobsite saw and a track system and which brand of either.. Decision made.
Makita track saw and then the best (most accurate) jobsite saw ( Already had a disappointing purchase of the Saw Stop, returned unused in 72 hours for a grossly warped table top.) Thanks for the review and hands on, one year, no nonsense review. Liked and subscribed. Thanks.
Thank you sir.
I was in the market for a cordless track saw. Makita or Festool was the question ;-) But then I got a black Friday offer: Festool tsc 55, two batteries, charger, 1400mm (55 inch) track, two clamps, and a systainer. This offer was much cheaper than the same stuff from Makita. So my decision was clear, even with a bunch of Makita cordless stuff in my shop ;-) I'm happy with my Festool, long cut through 1.5-inch thick oak - no problem. But to be honest, I think the Makita would do the same good job.
Agree on your comment regarding- track saw with contractor saw…I’m a GC and use this combo all the time; got rid of my big Jet table saw. Would also recommend getting a good set of parallel guides for ripping repetitive cuts.
I freaking love my parallel set
I bought one in April of 2019... I was already in the platform and a huge fan of Makita, but I’ve felt 100% satisfied with my purchase, every time I use it. It has saved me on odd jobs multiple times. The only thing that annoys me about it is setting the plunge depth. I just find it finicky to loosen the wing nut and slide the stop to the precise depth I’m looking for. From what I can tell, Festool did a better job on that feature... The great thing about Makita is that once you get 2 or 4 batteries, there are just so many excellent tools that become practical to purchase, which are reasonably affordable and tend to come with more and more batteries. I think I have around 16 Makita batteries at this point and I’d just rather have those than a couple Festool batteries and maybe a couple tools. Makita just makes tools that are smooth and comfortable to operate in my opinion... I also have the x2 Makita miter saw and I love that as well... And the chainsaw... First time seeing your channel. I enjoyed the video.
Thanks!
The makita batteries have outlasted every other battery platform I've ever tried. I've got almost 10 years on a pair of old 3ah 18v's and they still hold a charge like new, and last longer than any of my Dewalt, Milwaukee, Snap On, Matco, PC, etc.
Makita working well for 8 years, but heres the kicker..couldn’t help the bad pun. Im gonna get the new fesfool because of the kicks while ripping hardwood and 2x4s. The festool 28 tooth blade makes a big difference over the stock without losing much cut quality.
I own both, and the festool is better built and easier to use. They both get the job done but the festool has a 15% edge. If you doing this as a professional. Hands down festool, if your hobby/diy mikita.
Tip... buy the festool saw and use mikita tracks to save on the cost of tracks. The mikita track work is perfect with festool
It’s called Makita ..
I just bought one.
After running with a Festool for years.
Very disappointed.
I clearly got a lemon.
The saw wants to cut away from the fence and can’t go 200 mm before it jams up and it has only done at most 20 meters of cutting.
Just waiting to see a Makita’ s response for urgent repair or replacement .So far it hasn’t been great but that may be more the retailers attentiveness to the problem.
I’ll find out soon and fill you in.
I own the 36v makita tracksaw and its been a very good tool to have. I totally agree that I'd buy a tracksaw before I'd buy a table saw. I bought a cheap rail square on amazon and its perfectly square. Just shows that expensive doesn't always mean quality... most of the time it does😂
Glad to hear that I am not alone... i also got the Makita and I love it. And Makita makes by far the best batteries... but they are also one of the most expensive when you buy them seperat, so always buy a machine with batteries when you need new or more.
I have two 52” cabinet saws (Sawstop 3hp PCS and Grizzly 1023)and a panel saw (Bosch) in my shop yet prefer to use my cordless Makita track saw for breaking down sheet goods. Over all it’s easy to use and has repeatedly surprised me with the quality and squareness of cuts that it makes. Also agree that the Makita branded blades are very good. I have thus far refrained from going Festool mainly for the same reasons stated price vs. performance increase but I am entrenched in the Makita system and have many of their tools.
Sounds like you have a good size operation.
Nice review! 🙏 Track saws are quite versatile, I’ve had my TS 75 for the las 7 years, I also had the TSC 55 and now I have the Mafell MT 55 18v, and that is a dream machine. The Metabo KT 66 18v has started to be my saw of choice as of late. I took the Makita and the Mafell as loaners before making my decision. With no disrespect for Makita, there was no comparison. The Metabo for the money is probably the hardest deal to beat, 2x 8Ah batteries, their fast charger (47 mins) and a 160cm rail for less than €900, that is hard to beat. Makita kit is €400 + €390 2x 6Ah with DUAL charger (65 mins) + €100 for the track... €890 and you get about 105m linear cuts (tested on OSB 21mm) I get 160m linear with the 8Ah batteries on the MT 55 and 167m linear on the Metabo. If I was staring out, or knew someone staring out, I would recommend the Metabo for the price, longer times and and deeper cuts. ✌️
I sold my Makita but I agree with you about squaring the blade to the base plate / shoe. It’s a huge pain in the a$$. I also didn’t like how the cam locks to keep the saw on the rib would loosen up on me. I would get a cut that was off and that was the problem. I ordered the TSC55, still waiting on it, because of the riving knife and the fact I can use one battery I choose so. Was happy with the Makita most of the time. I also sold my table saw and am looking at getting a nice contractor saw. I didn’t need the Ridgid hybrid cabinet saw anymore. Hardly got used once I got the Makita TS. Thanks for the follow-up.
Solid advice all around, I've been a getter done kinda shop for many years, rustic furnishings, so I'm dealing with slabs, oddball wood, logs, etc, combined cabinetry some of the time. You can get a lot of work done with a good chopsaw, good portable planer, festool domino (XL if you can only afford one), track saw for sheet goods, and a good job site table saw. I've had several table saws including Delta unisaw, my current table saw is the semi portable Delta contractor saw and it cuts true, I'm happy with it. Go with the Makita track especially if already have Makita batteries. If I were choosing between Milwaukee and Makita I would go with Makita for a number of woodworking tool options only Makita makes. Milwaukee is great for contractors, homebuilders etc though. Only DeWalt anything I would get is their planer.
I had the Makita track saw and i had issues with the saw binding up when cutting 1 inch oak and also its like the blade would slip like the clutch would stop it , I finally bought the Festool TSC 55 and I tell you I had no issues and i use it a lot and I don't know what the difference between the two besides the festool have a riving knife but it cuts great and accurate and powerful
correct, for solid wood I prefer Festool but for pre laminated MDF I prefer the Makita, the scorching cut of makita is a must for pre laminated MDF
speed control is for cutting composites like PVC or ABS etc, to prevent melting/burning the material, i believe
I bought a Grizzly 3 HP cabinet saw some 30 years ago, it’s still perfect. I am know looking to get the Makita track saw kit, it’s more expensive then my Grizzly G1023Z. Nowadays, I have to get on a waiting list to get a track saw. Times they are a changing.
I do not recommend getting 2 55" tracks. I have 2 55" makita tracks and they don't line up. I also have 3 festool tracks and the TS75. The best thing with any brand is to get a short, medium and long track. That way you're guaranteed a straight cut.
Saws? I'm probably going to sell my TS75 and use the makita exclusively. It connects easily to my festool vac and the Bluetooth bottom strapped to the end makes starting it a breaze. The auto start with the TS75 will not be missed. Also the scoring cut knob is way cool. You can set your full depth cut and forget about it. Pull the scoring knob out, do a backwards scoring cut, push in the knob then do a full depth cut. You won't even need a splinter guard if you cut with good parallel guides.
Excellent video. I bought the Makita and I noticed it did not cut an accurate 90 degrees right out of the box; so I would caution first time buyers to check for squareness before cutting something important.
You're the 3rd person to recommend a track saw over a table saw (if you had to choose). So, that's what I'm going to do. For the purposes of space and money, I'm going to go with this Makita track saw. I'll decide on a job-site table saw later on down the road. This track saw seems to be able to cover all the bases. Although, I'm surprised no one is talking about the Kreg track saw. Apparently, Makita, Festool, and Mafell are the track saws pro's are going with. The only other info I think I would need, are the mandatory accessories... GREAT video!
Avoid the Kreg. Go with Festool or Makita (Mafell is great) since all accessories are made for the Festool/Makita pattern tracks. TSO Products makes great accessories
I appreciate this review, Robert. I am still undecided between the Makita and the Festool but this certainly helps. A couple of questions:
1. Why does one have to calibrate the squareness of the saw? What moves out of position? Surely it isn’t necessary right out of the box?
2. Would you give a brief rundown on how one actually would calibrate the squareness, please?
3. I have a Makita string trimmer. Came with the DC 18 RC charger and two 3.0 A h batteries. Would I be able to use those batteries in the saw? I notice you are using the 5.0 A hr batteries. I guess those would last much longer than the 3.0 ‘s.
4. If I purchase a couple of the 5.0 A h batteries, would you know if the charger I have would be able to charge them, or would I need to purchase a new charger as well.
Thanks. And keep up the good work.
I don't own the saw but if you're mechanically inclined at all I'm sure you can figure it out. Loosen nut, adjust with a framing square, tighten nut.
Whew, glad I ordered the TSO - I'm waiting for it to arrive.
There's another channel that prints and sells caps for the Makitas.
I stumble onto your channel. Funny you should mentioned toward the end about choosing the tools. I have a job site table saw and just recently bought the mikita track saw and because I was struggling to cut sheet goods. And I just happen to have very small space. haha. That's good recommendation.
Thank you.
I've been using the Makita 7600 for 10+ years and love it. I do like the idea of a cordless but when the corded works fine, I'm not going to get approval to buy a 2nd saw from the boss. :-)
I think you just sold my on the Makita. I am just a hobby wood worker. But I build Model Train layouts. So I am looking for a tool to brake down flat goods like 3\4" ply. However at this time the Festool is a little out of my price range. It's looks like I am going to get a Makita. Thanks.
It baffles me how track saws are all built right blade.
When it comes to circ saws, it's usually preference based, with a few "safety" aspects.
With a track saw, however, it should be designed as : Blade Left for righties. Blade Right for lefties.
As a former lefty, I loved it. It was the one tool where a lefty could look at a righty, and stick out our tongue and say "See what it's like for us?!?!?!" Hahaaa.
But after a virus took my left arm leg function, I had to become a righty. And cutting straight lines (safely) became a nightmare. No table saws. Maybe a bandsaw. A jigsaw, and circ saw were my only options. Because only having a right arm, made a track saw with a right blade, pretty much impossible.
So from my perspective, being on both sides of the blade, a track saw is the only circular saw where Blade location truly matters.
Yet there is no such thing as a Blade Left Track Saw. (Yeah, the one Kreg makes is a steaming pile of 💩. But it's to be expected, since Kreg isn't a brand I'd associate with precision and quality. They have great innovation, but poor execution. If they upped their quality, and spent more on manufacturing their products (and a higher retail price obviously) they could be great.)
So, next time any righties out there using a track saw have to drench, lean, cross arms, climb upon your workpiece... imaging if it were a Blade Left. And how you could rip a sheet of plywood with one arm, simply by walking beside it and holding the saw.
(For naysayers: I get it. "I've never had an issue before." Well, that's just because you have nothing to compare it to. Festool made a track saw, and everyone just started copying it. Then copying copies. And so on. .... "Well if you lay your track down right, and the splinter guard is on your line, then it doesn't matter where the blade side is." Sure, but then your guide rail, and saw are resting on your cutoff. .... "But I've always used right blades." Well, that's great. But if you always eat cold bologna sandwiches, then you'll never know how good a fresh porterhouse can taste. Lol. )
If you can find a lefty using a track saw, watch them. They're using a Blade Right, and it's effortless. They have it made with track saws. Leo over at Hand-I-Craft is a 1 armed woodworker like myself. But he has only his left hand. Check out his use of a (Festool) Track Saw, and how easy his cuts are.
Makita, Bosch, Dewalt, and even Festool, are missing out on selling thousands and thousands if saws, simply because they refuse to think about blade location as more than just personal preference.
Also, make track saws 7-¼" people!!! 45° cuts shouldn't require us to bury the entire blade.
Lordy! That shop is a DISASTER dude! 😂😂
I hope you’ve had a chance to organize it in the 3 years since you posted this 😅
Totally agree. We bought a Makita for our shop. We got the corded version which will kick if used carelessly. (Not that I would EVER do that 🙄.) It’s a great saw; durable, powerful, smooth. I’ll be buying a second one for my home shop. Gripes: the track should be around 65” so it can break down metric sheets. Dust chute could be better placed. Depth adjustment is a little janky.
I am cabinet maker/millworker......no way I would give up my table saw. Powematic 10" 5hp plus 10" Delta Unisaw. Thoes saws coupled with 4' x 8' outfeed table at the minimum allow you to get work done well! Great to have both, One arbor tips left, the other right. Keep a true rip blade on one and a great cross cut on the other. My PM 2000 weights 700lbs....work horse l day,, all night. You don't fight quality equipment, it makes your, life/job easier...!! The table saw is the true heart of real wood work! When they bury me, thoes saws will still be breezing through 3" maple.....
Make up your owen masonite/ plywood tracks to any length you wish. And dedicate a high quality skill saw and blade ....and there you go for pennys compared to festool, with total accuracy.
To each his own. Thoes portable saws won't hold to heavy use and have tiny little fences.....but I do like them on the job site.
just jim
Oh I’m absolutely not giving up my cabinet saw. I’m just saying that if you’re just building a shop. I’d say get a tracksaw before a big cabinet saw if you have a decent Jobsite saw. Having both is just iceing on the cake.
I made my own DIY tracks for a circular saw for years before getting a tracksaw. Yes it does the same-ish thing but it’s like me sawing a Jobsite table saw can do the same thing as a 3hp cabinet saw.
I love my Makita 08 circular saw. It's their 36-volt track capable saw and it cuts clean. One saw to do the work of two
I’ve been eyeing their new 9” track compatible 36v saw for heavy duty slab break downs
@@DaileyWoodworks I've been eyeing it for the same reason. Waiting for a sale, hopefully.
I sure love my Makita Track Saw. I’ve only had it a short time but what a game changer it has been.
Speed control
If I find the saw it cutting out while say ripping with wrong blade I turn the speed down it reduces the speed but increases torque so no cutting out and can do rip in one pass
I bought 60 volt dewalt
Worm drive made my
Own wood track works great and i can use the
Worm drive other projects
Buying a new track saw and table saw on a limited budget. Went with a Skil worm drive SPT99-11 table saw because it has a rack and pinion fence, and I figured it would be the closest to a cabinet saw's power and torque at a sub $700 price point. As for track saws, debating between Makita and Kreg. This video was very helpful and has me leaning towards Makita (corded version).
I would recommend the Makita over the Kreg primarily because they use Festool pattern tracks which opens up the ability to get all the aftermarket accessories in the future
I like that with the makita the blade nut (not sure of the name) can be reversed and different size blades can be used!
I love my Makita. I have had it for about 2 years. Don't own one Festool yet. I am 64 years of age and have bought every other brand in the universe. Maybe I have missed the boat but somehow I don't think so!! Thanks for the video !
Chipshot442 I'm also 64 and have been doing construction and woodworking for over 40 years. I've had a chance to try friends Festools and have generally found them to be tremendously over priced with lots of cheap plastic parts. I've loved just about all the Makita tools I've used! I don't think you have "missed the boat".
@@terrygoyan Thank you so much Terry. My first impression of the Festool was that it had a lot of plastic parts and it seemed to be cheap. After watching the Inside Carpenter and finding out that he has burned up two Festool Mitre Saws and he went back to DeWalt I felt a little better about purchasing the Bosch 12" top of the line Mitre saw for my shop at around 600.00 and not 1200.00. I believe in purchasing great tools for great prices but I still think from what I am hearing that the Festools are way over priced. Thanks for your response.
@@terrygoyan - “Cheap plastic parts” are made of polycarbonate (Lexan). You can beat them with a hammer and no breakage. My saw is quite new but i regularly see saws that are 10-12 years old and they are still going strong with consistent 1mm accuracy.
Unless you are going to be using the track saw in places where connecting to AC power isn't possible/practical, I just don't see the advantage of a battery powered track saw. And I say this as someone who already has the DeWalt 60V cordless circular saw, so I don't have anything against cordless saws. When used in a shop with dust collection, the vacuum hose is way more of an encumbrance than a cord. Plus if you use some velcro strips to hold the cord to the vacuum hose, the ease of use would be identical between the corded and cordless. If you use a dust extractor that has an outlet that the cord can plug into both the hose and cord go to the same place. Also when you pull the trigger on the track saw, the dust extractor turns on and then turns off turns off a few seconds after you release the trigger. True you can get a dust extractor with Bluetooth and then put a Bluetooth button around the end of the hose connected to the saw you can accomplish close to the same thing. But that just adds more expense to an already more expensive system.
Since the corded version is substantially cheaper and there is no worry about not having charged batteries available (not to mention the cost of replacing batteries once they have been recharged a maximum number of times) I can't see why I shouldn't go with the corded version. So what am I missing that makes the battery version worth the additional cost?
BTW, thanks for your review and insights into the Makita track saw. I am trying to set up a shop without a tablesaw, and hope that a high quality track saw along with an MFT workbench and some accessories (bench dogs, fence, angle jigs, etc) along with a sliding miter saw, router (free and in a router table) and a bandsaw will allow me to do all of the cuts that otherwise would be done on a table saw. The track saw is likely to be key to replicating what a tablesaw can do, and so I am really sweating whether to go with the Makita or to "buy once, cry once" and take the plunge and go with the Festool. Reviews like yours are helping me to feel confident that the Makita will make the same quality of cuts, even if it doesn't have all the same bells and whistles as the Festool. So thank you very much.
I've had the Makita for 6 months it's a brilliant tool. I've kept my Festool as a back up. Wish I'd bought the Makita earlier. The fine blade cut is great even on countertop face up.
The Makita brand blades are excellent. I’ve gone through 6/4 walnut with the 56t fine finish blades. (I’m lazy and never change my blades to suite the task)
I originally had the Bosch corded tracksaw and I was happy with it except for the fact that the tracks were a bit flimsy. I sold it as I began doing more jobsite work and less in the workshop. I purchased the Makita 36v brushless tracksaw and I am very happy with it. It is ideal for breaking down sheets of mdf, plywood and osb. The lock that holds the saw onto the track is a gift for bevel cuts. I find it a bit under powered when cutting hardwood doors to length. If I was processing slabs in a workshop I'd buy the Festool TS75. I recently purchased the Makita 36v brushless vacuum, it is the cordless/corded version. Sadly Makita don't make a 36v brushless vacuum that can use mains power and has the built in AWS, 🙄 One can buy an adaptor but it's expensive.
Yeah I’m not impressed with Makita’s wireless vac solution. Bluetooth batteries seem to be the best solution because then any tool can be adapted
I think the speed control is more for cutting metals and other materials. I love my Makota tracksaw. The Makita blades are great but I found some 40 tooth diablo finish blades for $11.99 for a 2 pack and i have a few of those now!
With the 20mm arbor hole?? I’ve got to find those!
For the people concerned about the lack of a riving knife. There's this thing called a shim, try sticking it in the cut, like an actual carpenter would!
So far I've only seen good about makita and own them myself. Waiting for them to update/upgrade their pin nailer...
Problem with having different length tracks is that the profile is a slight bit different between the models. You will have to tighten up your screws every time you move between sizes. Pretty shitty quality control to be honest, but I only use the medium size and sometimes two joined together so it doesnt really affect me
Great video. I have the Makita track saw with two 55” tracks and love it. My only complaint so far is the dust port does not connect to Makita’s cordless mini HEPA dust collector. I need to see if Makita makes some obscure adapter for it. It’s BS I have to hunt down one.
That is frustrating. That’s where festool has the advantage. All their dust ports are standardized to their hoses. The small festool hose does fit inside the Makita dust port. FYI. I decided on the CT26 after a lot of thought. It is very nice and I’m happy with that choice
Got a bunch of makita tools I’m really happy with but none of them have matching dust port sizes. Forever buying different adapters.
sounds like a job for 3d printing
The quality and reliability of the Festool is unsurpassed. My TS 55 is now 4 years old and used constantly. Never had to calibrate it and stayed absolutely accurate. And i bumped and accidentally dropped the saw several times. Working hard figured wood with no kickbacks. And all the accessories from the Festool system work seamless. I were so impressed that I recently bought a TS75 and this monster is even better. Yep. Festool is expensive but you get value for your money. Aftercare service I’ve been told is excellent ( I’ve never needed it personally). Same with the table saw you choose. Nothing come close to a SawStop. If you value your fingers.
I've never understood the need for a TS75. Any panel work can be done with a 6.5" blade with ease. The rare instance that you are going through solid wood with a big blade, you could just use a regular straight edge and clean up with a hand plane.
Thanks for the video, I've been thinking about buying a 2nd hand festool ts55 vs a new makita...it's the same price!
Good review thanks. It's funny how there is so much feedback about tracksaws and their tracks and plenty on the guide rail squares but very little feedback on parallel guide systems. I bought the Seneca brand and find them pretty quick once calibrated and essential when cutting out parts for cabinets. I also use them or one in conjunction with a square. So far it's the closest thing to a true cabinet saw (full sliding table) which I have used to 18 years.
I bought the TSO guides a while ago. I like them very much. I’ll have a video to go with my cabinet building series soon
I thought a track saw was a tool I'd want corder as I'd anyways have it hanging on the vac, but this makes me really wonder if I should just get the Makita cordless over the festool corded I was eyeing - this way I have money to spare on extra batteries and if I need to make long cuts I can take it in the courtyard without worrying about schlepping extension cords along.
Even with 95% shop use I’m glad I went cordless. Yes I almost always use dust collection it like you’re saying sometimes there’s that awkward or convenient cut that a cord or hose makes needlessly more difficult.
I have not seen the video yet, but I was going through the same and I went with Makita. Now I have two Makita track saws - corded and cordless one. Never regret it. Festool is great for Dominos' but for everything else, there is a better competitor.
Has anyone had trouble with excessive play in the main hinge/plunge mechanism between the saw and the shoe on their Makita track saw?
I was having troubles with cut accuracy, and eventually I ended up grazing the side of my 118” track due to a wandering cut. In diagnosing the issue, I found that the saw fits into a machined pocket on the shoe, and the two components are connected with a hinge pin. The machined pocket has noteable tolerance (~0.015”) allowing the saw to shift back and forth along the hinge pin. I ended up disassembling my saw to install a shim that I fabricated from a grade 8 washer. This shim removed the excessive tolerance, and the saw now works flawlessly.
I recently visited ACME tools, and noticed that the display model had the same issue. Just curious if this is an isolated issue, or if others have experienced something similar.
I had used the Makita saw and tracks for many years and been happy with it/them. I noticed during a project recently however that the cuts were strangely no longer accurate. I finally noticed that the base of the saw (even though it is cast) has distorted so that the corners away from the blade edge are about 1/8 in out of level with the rest of the base. Don't know how that could happen. I purchased a Festool TS55 and am kicking myself for not getting one earlier - the quality and ease of use is so much better than the Makita. Big bonus is I can use the TS55 on the Makita tracks, just put new a new sacrificial strip on and of off you go.
Aren’t you being a bit unfair giving unearned praise to the Festool? It hasn’t proved itself in your woodworking operations as well as the Makita has for many years. The Makita gave you many years of good service and desired results. It’s likely the Festool will, too. Let’s wait and see.
What would be a good job site table saw in your opinion ?
Btw you just saved me a big chunk ! TY
After a near serious accident. Sawstop. I'm saving up to replace both my cabinet saw and Jobsite saw.
I have a Ridgid Jobsite saw. With a rolling stand and it is a very good tablesaw. I feel I could get by with it as an only table saw.
Many friends have the Dewalt saw and say the same thing. I had two of the current Metabo saws, both had a lot of slop and the first one broke within 90days. I returned the replacement very soon
I don't have a track saw... Yet. I have a pretty decent older Delta cabinet saw. I just recently bought the Domino (in May). I debated on it or a track saw. I ended up getting the domino and the Kreg AccuCut. I do not think very highly of it. I've been wanting the Festool track saw for a while. Dust collection is going to be a huge drive for me. I've also considered upgrading my table saw to a SawStop. After watching this I'm thinking maybe the track saw would be the better buy. I'm curious now if the dust collection is a lot better. And I'm curious the "out the door" cost difference would be
I'm looking at track saws as a cheap alternative to a SawStop table saw. I really don't want to be another person injured by a table saw. I've never owned or used a super high quality table saw but I'm pretty sure they are all capable of hurting you for the slightest misstep.
Like anything else, yes they can hurt you, but your car can cripple or kill you....but I am not walking......I really believe that driving is the most dangerous thing we do.....!
I love my big smooth table saw, but I know it can give me the carbide kiss at any moment....!
Exactly what I was looking for. I am choosing between DeWalt, Makita and Festool and I think I will go with the Makita because I am in EU and DeWalt costs a lot and it seems a bit stupid with their plunge mechanism and adjustments (I have corded dewalt stuff and really like it). The Festool costs like 150 euros than the Makita (same config sets with batteries etc). So I guess this makita will work well for going to the lumber store and cutting the plywood in half so it would fit in the car so I can later cut it precise on my table saw and overall rip plywood to smaller pieces.
cooper1101 sounds good. The tracksaw is just as good if not better than the table saw for final cuts as well.
@@DaileyWoodworks But have you tried something like the dewalt circular saw dcs576 that has the track support but is still a circular? I wonder now how accurate will those be, provided I do not care about the dust. And how often will I need to adjust the blade to be parallel.
As a professional Tradesman, I have a red line with what tools I want cordless and which ones I don't.
When the Lithium batteries will only have approx 2000 charges before they are toast, all my heavily used tools must be 120volt so as to not waste the batteries, even though I have 12 Makita batteries and 5 chargers I still wont use heavily used tools of the cordless type.
I might be mistaken, but I believe the speed control is for really dense woods and for cutting metal sheet goods not more then a 16th thick. But I could be wrong.
I purchase the Miata for the sake reasons. I also have the makita miter saw so it made even more sense in battery commonality.
I like it but dislike the metric only gauges. Makita didn’t care enough about it’s US buyers to make a coni gauge. Also I dislike the bevel controls that requires two adjustments.
That being said, ACME tool had a special fir $499. 4 batteries . 3 tracks, the sustainers, and free shipping. The comparable Festool was $1200 similarly equipped.
What I like about the Makita is it’s speed and overall quality fir the price. Would I like a Festool? Sure. But after using one a few times….I do believe the Festool is a better ergonomic design. But it’s slower and more costly.
Get the Festool vac and just get the Makita wireless adapter that you can plug into the Festool. Makita WUT02U Autostart wireless universal adapter. You also would have to get the wireless transmitter to install into the saw itself if it doesn't have it already.
I just the festool vac with the Bluetooth remote. It works well
Nic review . I have the corded Makita track - bought it before they came out with the cordless version. My next track saw will be cordless for sure, probably another Makita. I also have the cordless Makita palm sander which I love. You mention an adapter so it can run on the Makita guide rail. Haven’t seen that, so if you can point me to where I can buy one or a part number, that would be great. Thanks
Love the Makita products! 💯 Liking the track saw setup even more now. Thk u!
I feel the same way. Great follow-up review and nice to see how things work after 1 year. Value for the money was key on my choice for buying the Makita. We are fortunate to live in a time when there are solid alternatives to purchase. I have 2 of the 55" tracks, and the TSO connector for the tracks coming and will soon purchase the GRS-16 Guide Rail Square.
I just ordered the Parf Guide system from TSO to make a MFT top for my workbench. They unfortunately were out of stock of they're guides. But I'll be adding them soon as well
Dailey Woodworks if you’re looking for dogs to go with that check out benchdogs.co.uk , not cheap but extremely precise and worth the money
I'm still stuck between which to get. Interested in the Cordless Festool so I could use the batteries and some of their 'tool onlys' in the future.
Totally agree I ve got the same saw and run both Makita and festool tools,because I’ve got a lot of Makita cordless tools and for me it was an easy choice ,I ve got a Festool ts 55 mains also which is really good saw but I always use the cordless ! Makita is great on price compared to the extortionate price of the festool!
I bought it, it was expensive and then I had to buy the ten foot fence and the pieces to connect them and the blades cost 100 dollars, it's a good tool but you have to need it to make it pay, there are so many ways to accomplish the same thing and all the tools in the world won't make up for lack of experience
And i loved my Kreg track saw until watching your video. But must admit been looking at the Festool battery powered model even thought a power cord in my shop doesnt bother me not taking it in a job site
Now I’ll preface that Festool just released a new version. But I’ve been helping a friend set up his new cabinet shop and have been using his older corded TS55. I have not been impressed and free my Makita cuts much better. Maybe he needs a new blade but it’s still hard for me to justify the premium.
That coming from the guy who just impulse bought a $249 “limited edition” Festool bit set.
Great vid, love my makita track saw. Check out strawbyte workshop. Has three great little things to improve it. The dust cover for the side, a little depth gauge improvement to add in the track as well as a kerf measure, so you can add the kerf tool under the track and it adds in the 1.6mm when aligning.
How much extra have you found you have to add the depth setting when using the track?
I own 2 Makita drill kits and one is about 5 years old & the other about 10 years old. Although I would love to buy the Makita track saw, I do want to make the switch over to the Milwaukee drill kits. I've seen that Milwaukee has a track saw (CS 85 CBE) but its only available in the EU I believe, but I did read that Milwaukee is going to announce a track saw for the US either late this year 2020 or sometime in spring 2021 which would be awesome. I've always wanted the Festool track saw but, but its like the Apple of the tool world, Expensive.
Buy a mafell, it the rolls Royce of track saws!
Robert, I completely agree. I've had the corded version (SP6000j) for 3 years, and love the saw and the results. I've recently sold my saw, and am looking at the battery powered versions. My application is an in-place shop, so portability is not an issue for me. Makita now has a 40 volt version, so my question is do you think the difference between the 36v and 40V is needed or worth the cost difference?
i had the 18V x 2 and now I have the 40V version, it's very similar, the 40V is silent and battery last longer but if you already have de 18V don't worth the upgrade. I only changed because I sold the 18v x 2 to a friend of mine.
Good job I about ready to pull the trigger on the makita
They needed to fire the engineer that designs the dust ports years ago. I have a work horse Makita planer and have the same problem with not getting a hose to fit on it. Love the planer but not so having to duct tape a rigged line to it.
Just guessing, but speed control might be a factor for hard vs. soft woods, cutting metal, etc.
Mycooworker was cutting 1" red oak and the Festool kicked back on him even though it has a riving knife. Took a chunk out of the track too.
Did it kick back during a plunge? I have the TS55 and it definitely needs to be held very securely on harder materials, especially on shallow cutting depths
My Festool dust extractor fits the Makita (I have the Midi model with the Antistatic hose)
Wittworks makes a whole series of accessories, including a port cover, for the Makita track saw. He has a YT channel & website.
I've watched this multiple times and have enjoyed how thorough it is. I want to purchase a makita corded track saw. Do you recommend this type as well? More so than $$$$$ festool?
I can't do 10 sheets with the Festool. Think I halved 5 sheets and the batteries were done. 5.2v
ok. please tell us if you ever checked if your cuts are really straight - when cutting hardwood 2inch :) because this is a common issue on track saws :)
Just came across your channel. I would highly recommend the Rockler Dustright Flexi-port adapter. It fits it perfectly.
Also, there's this: www.thingiverse.com/thing:3873322