At ground level or below, I try to use the blue wire nuts, they have a waterproof material inside the nut, already. But I keep dielectric grease too, specially in moist enviorments.
You've got your ' Ground Rod ' to close to your ' Transmitter ' . I also think that a ' Dynatel ' , made by 3M is the best machine on the market for ' Fault and Cable ' locating . Just my opinion . ✌ out from 🇨🇦
I'm trying to chase down a voltage drop on 1 of 6 loads....I have a print of the 4 under ground vaults the power passes thru..from the panel we have 277v coming out and no tripped breakera.. by the 4th vault the we have 7v..and the 3rd vault has we have power picked up on our voltage stick.. nothing is splice in the 3rd vault.. also this is in an automation area on the port of Los Angeles. The main panel is not labeled due to an accident where everything had to be spliced and now at the panel all 6 breakers are mixed up..I want to turn off a breaker and see what load turned off label it and also label the wire at the same time in the 3rd vault. Eventually I can cut the breaker for load in question and splice it in 3rd vault flup back on breaker and test actual voltage at that 3rd vault that way I know if it's 277v in the 3rd vault I only have to pull wire from 3rd to 4th vault...at 4th vault I swapped a good hot and my load in question gets 277v no issues. If at the 3rd vault splice I don't have 277v then I'm in trouble and I may have to pull several hundred feet of new wire? Your thoughts?
I mention automation because it's never not running..so I have a small window to teouble shoot this diagnose and make a move.. this is what I believe is my next move? I hope in the Vaults 2 days ago..all 6 hots and nuetrals are pulled together the whole way.
Nothing like a nosey woman, when you ask any historic questions about something gives worthless (I’m not sure, I don’t remember) responses. But then they gossip all day long about stuff in the past while they’ve proven their memory sucks.
Yeah that is a good idea, but in order to do these type repairs, you have to keep them under $500. If they go over $500 they usually require an estimated, then voted on by a board, HOA, then usually it delays the repair 5 or 6 weeks. Then also requiring 2 other bids and then go with the cheapest bid expecting the quality of the highest bid.
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Sorry you had a Karen arrive on the scene! 🤣🤣🤣
You got Karened
I just fixed some yard lamps- good to put some dialectic grease on the connectors.
At ground level or below, I try to use the blue wire nuts, they have a waterproof material inside the nut, already. But I keep dielectric grease too, specially in moist enviorments.
I have a 30A breaker tripping. This started after our rain in Ca. I'm guessing it's a wet or corroded connection. Thanks for your video 👍
Is it Underground? Whats it power? Is there a box or splice in the ground ?
You've got your ' Ground Rod ' to close to your ' Transmitter ' . I also think that a ' Dynatel ' , made by 3M is the best machine on the market for ' Fault and Cable ' locating . Just my opinion . ✌ out from 🇨🇦
Also, since you didn't actually USE the 521, how is this a video on finding a short (OPEN) when all you did is dig next to where it went?
I'm trying to chase down a voltage drop on 1 of 6 loads....I have a print of the 4 under ground vaults the power passes thru..from the panel we have 277v coming out and no tripped breakera.. by the 4th vault the we have 7v..and the 3rd vault has we have power picked up on our voltage stick.. nothing is splice in the 3rd vault.. also this is in an automation area on the port of Los Angeles. The main panel is not labeled due to an accident where everything had to be spliced and now at the panel all 6 breakers are mixed up..I want to turn off a breaker and see what load turned off label it and also label the wire at the same time in the 3rd vault. Eventually I can cut the breaker for load in question and splice it in 3rd vault flup back on breaker and test actual voltage at that 3rd vault that way I know if it's 277v in the 3rd vault I only have to pull wire from 3rd to 4th vault...at 4th vault I swapped a good hot and my load in question gets 277v no issues. If at the 3rd vault splice I don't have 277v then I'm in trouble and I may have to pull several hundred feet of new wire? Your thoughts?
I mention automation because it's never not running..so I have a small window to teouble shoot this diagnose and make a move.. this is what I believe is my next move? I hope in the Vaults 2 days ago..all 6 hots and nuetrals are pulled together the whole way.
Are you talking a SHORT, or an OPEN?
It was an open, caused from a corraded wire nut, below grade.
Max "Getsmart"
Did you use uf for the ungrounded feed
Whats uf? I disabled the feed, before I started pinging the line.
Nothing like a nosey woman, when you ask any historic questions about something gives worthless (I’m not sure, I don’t remember) responses. But then they gossip all day long about stuff in the past while they’ve proven their memory sucks.
It's ISO cable
I can't believe you are going to use those short wires. Pull the box. Cut the pipe. Put box back on and rewire right for the next guy
Yeah that is a good idea, but in order to do these type repairs, you have to keep them under $500. If they go over $500 they usually require an estimated, then voted on by a board, HOA, then usually it delays the repair 5 or 6 weeks. Then also requiring 2 other bids and then go with the cheapest bid expecting the quality of the highest bid.
Aha, dude, you need something like the armada pro900 🤙🏽🫶🏽
That doesn't fit my budget, but this tracer gets the job done, though.