Hmmm...looks like a lot of filler was used on the final product "right off the CNC". That's not good enough if that's true. JointCAM software with a vertical mount on the CNC works great. Take a look at that.
I tried this. Bought that $600 bit and all. Burnt through 3 sheets of material and 2 days of time. Never got it right. Sold the bit and bought an actual dovetail machine.
As time went on it became evident the quality of the plywood makes all the difference also the material thickness settings, tool heights and z0 needs to be bang on as well. Sorry it did not work out for you man.
@@hillcrestcabinets would there be a way to get that exact file? I tried setting it up on my end and for some reason the undermount cut out in the back was a weird shape and wasn’t being cut out squared
Currently looking into moving my dovetail process into mozaik but what's making me so-so is the insert bit.I cant find any documentation on the feeds and speeds of the insert tool. My shop uses maple for the drawer boxes. What speeds and feeds did you use for plywood?
If you are using solid maple for your Dovetails, you're better off to build them with a cnc dovetailing machine or manual. Mozaik is really only good for baltic birch dovetails. I did learn recently that not all Baltic plywood is created equal and spending a bit more on quality Baltic will increase the final result 10 fold.
At that point we did use filler but found that the quality of the plywood makes a massive difference. Once we changes to a higher grade plywood no longer needed filler.
The end shot of the fully finished drawer right off the CNC - Looks like it has edge banding and wood filler. Am I seeing it wrong? Thanks
You are correct haha.. and you can see they almost sanded through the top veneer.
Thank you for sharing knowledge.
Hmmm...looks like a lot of filler was used on the final product "right off the CNC". That's not good enough if that's true. JointCAM software with a vertical mount on the CNC works great. Take a look at that.
Did you run formulas for the notches?
Yes I did
I tried this. Bought that $600 bit and all. Burnt through 3 sheets of material and 2 days of time.
Never got it right. Sold the bit and bought an actual dovetail machine.
As time went on it became evident the quality of the plywood makes all the difference also the material thickness settings, tool heights and z0 needs to be bang on as well. Sorry it did not work out for you man.
Was this your first time building dovetails through mozaik on the cnc? Or is this setting specific to just one job y’all had?
First time ever actually. Works quite well!
@@hillcrestcabinets would there be a way to get that exact file? I tried setting it up on my end and for some reason the undermount cut out in the back was a weird shape and wasn’t being cut out squared
Currently looking into moving my dovetail process into mozaik but what's making me so-so is the insert bit.I cant find any documentation on the feeds and speeds of the insert tool. My shop uses maple for the drawer boxes. What speeds and feeds did you use for plywood?
If you are using solid maple for your Dovetails, you're better off to build them with a cnc dovetailing machine or manual. Mozaik is really only good for baltic birch dovetails. I did learn recently that not all Baltic plywood is created equal and spending a bit more on quality Baltic will increase the final result 10 fold.
I should note that mozaik has preset vortex bits preset in the cnc tooling library with feeds and speeds that's what we used
@@hillcrestcabinetswhat grade and thickness of Baltic birch you’re using ?
Did you add wood filler to the connection between the pieces?
At that point we did use filler but found that the quality of the plywood makes a massive difference. Once we changes to a higher grade plywood no longer needed filler.
@@hillcrestcabinets thank you for all your videos. They have been very helpful to me. Appreciate your time.
Did the same thing my first time.
What are you running for a cnc?
Shopsabre 4896