Thank you for sharing your knowledge. Another trick - when cutting ATR I have a nut on the rod. When I finish cutting I run the nut off the cut end. This clears any rough areas and makes it easier to thread it again.
I had a project where I had to drill through a 3/4” brass rod and even though I had a Bron style jig and securely clamped the part the drill bit tried to dig or grab too much. Because I had a jig made and clamped the rod securely the drill press would stall. Scary operation.
You are very welcome. When I need to match paint for a repair or touch up something, I go first to hobby paint. This is sold in craft stores in small bottles. There are about 400 different colors, with about a half dozen shades of gold. If I need a large amount, a pint or more, I go to a paint store and have it matched. I it's latex paint any hardware store can do it. Paint supply stores can mix oil based paint for spraying.
On an unrelated project… do you have any ideas for a jig to drill through the side of round stock that would help me find center? I make little brass hammers from 3/4” and 1” round brass and struggle to get the handle hole placed correctly in the outside diameter of the rod. Don’t have a milling machine or a machinists vise just a drill press. My eye crometer is not as accurate as it used to be..
@@Rusty_ok One trick is to file a flat spot on the rod and center punch where you want the hole. Harbor Freight sells a set of counter sink centering bits that are short and stubby, so they don't flex and break. I start the hole with the counter sink and bit and go to larger bits. The best way to center round stock under the bit it to make a v-block with a crisp corner in the bottom. I use oak 2x4 salvaged from pallets. Put a steel rod in the chuck and clamp the v-block lined up with the rod. Don't forget to to look up the best speed for the bit size and material. It makes the job a lot easier and bits last longer.
Is there a particular name for the type of socket you are using that screws together? And, would you be able to tell us where you find them at a good price?
@@amethystsunangel1955 I call it a captured ring socket, but the catalogs don't distinguish it from the regular shell sockets. I buy them from Grand Brass. (grandbrass.com) The prices range from $7 to $12. I use them for all customer pay work.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge. Another trick - when cutting ATR I have a nut on the rod. When I finish cutting I run the nut off the cut end. This clears any rough areas and makes it easier to thread it again.
I've used this technique also, but it tends to bend the sharp splinters up and it still needs to be filed.
Informative and useful as usual. Thanks.
@@chuckfisher2106 Thank you as well.
This is a great lesson in lamp building.
@@jjscalifornia5086 thank you very much
a step drill bit works nicely on thin metal. nice tip on measuring the pipe
@@johnmolnar2957 Thank you very much.
I had a project where I had to drill through a 3/4” brass rod and even though I had a Bron style jig and securely clamped the part the drill bit tried to dig or grab too much. Because I had a jig made and clamped the rod securely the drill press would stall. Scary operation.
Great video as usual thank you. Unrelated question having a hard time matching brass shades of paint to fixtures any suggestions. Thank you
You are very welcome. When I need to match paint for a repair or touch up something, I go first to hobby paint. This is sold in craft stores in small bottles. There are about 400 different colors, with about a half dozen shades of gold. If I need a large amount, a pint or more, I go to a paint store and have it matched. I it's latex paint any hardware store can do it. Paint supply stores can mix oil based paint for spraying.
On an unrelated project… do you have any ideas for a jig to drill through the side of round stock that would help me find center? I make little brass hammers from 3/4” and 1” round brass and struggle to get the handle hole placed correctly in the outside diameter of the rod. Don’t have a milling machine or a machinists vise just a drill press. My eye crometer is not as accurate as it used to be..
@@Rusty_ok One trick is to file a flat spot on the rod and center punch where you want the hole. Harbor Freight sells a set of counter sink centering bits that are short and stubby, so they don't flex and break. I start the hole with the counter sink and bit and go to larger bits. The best way to center round stock under the bit it to make a v-block with a crisp corner in the bottom. I use oak 2x4 salvaged from pallets. Put a steel rod in the chuck and clamp the v-block lined up with the rod. Don't forget to to look up the best speed for the bit size and material. It makes the job a lot easier and bits last longer.
Is there a particular name for the type of socket you are using that screws together? And, would you be able to tell us where you find them at a good price?
@@amethystsunangel1955 I call it a captured ring socket, but the catalogs don't distinguish it from the regular shell sockets. I buy them from Grand Brass. (grandbrass.com) The prices range from $7 to $12. I use them for all customer pay work.