I love this. I accidentally found out the location of the sound on my bike and came to this video to see how to fix it. I went to a lot of bike shops in my city and none of them could figure it out. Thank you Tony! :)
Glad you were able to solve the problem. I've had the very same problem on one of my titanium bikes which is the reason I made the video. Regards, Tony
@@BikeIsLife4EverGG Most handlebar these days are aluminum with some newer that are carbon fiber. And yes, aluminum and carbon fiber handlebars can creak (the carbon fiber spacers are not the cause). You may need to remove the handlebar clamp, clean and use Fiber Grip carbon paste (even with aluminum bars) because the Fiber Grip allows for better compression of the handlebar, less friction and less noise. Regards, Tony
Hi Tony, from Brazil. Amazing Man!! I'm I was just looking for a solution for my case: i checked pedals, seat tube, headset, cranckset, and nothing solved my problem. So, i saw this vídeo, and i used the blue loctite in the steam bolts and the creak sound dissapear. Thanks a Lot for this maintenance classe!!!
Finding where the noise is coming from is usually the biggest challenge, especially when dealing with clicking or creaking. Congratulations on finding the problem and the easy solution. In some cases, one needs to also remove the handlebars, clean the clamp area and I usually apply Fiber Grip (used for carbon fiber but allows for a better seal with all materials including aluminum and steel at a lower end of the recommended torque recommendations) to the area of the clamp that comes in contact with the handlebars. Also visit our UA-cam home site at: ua-cam.com/users/MrTony10speed Regards and safe cycling, Tony
This is exactly what started happening on my new mtb after 2 months of riding and it was loud and annoying . I knew it was coming from the head clamp. I’ll be getting the grease for sure.
If you note creaking when pulling on the handlebars that seems to go away when you ease up on the bars on flat terrain, it's probably the clamp as you mention. I like to clean the clamp and bolts and then use a carbon paste such as Fiber Grip since it has small particles that allow compression at a lower torque setting. Be sure to grease (or, even better, use Loctite Blue on the clamp bolts so they won't loosen) and to check out the manufacturers torque settings for the clamp bolts (sometimes it's written directly on the clamp or stem). Let me know how you make out. Regards, Tony
Creaks are always such a doozy - once I got really worried over a creak that turned out to be coming from my helmet visor! With how loud it was coming from right on top of my head I thought I had managed to crack my frame or something.
Great story. I agree that locating the source of the creak, squeak or click can be a real challenge. In this case, it was only when I noticed that the harder I pulled on the handlebars, the more prominent the noise. Thanks for sharing. Tony
Glad it helped. I, myself, had this problem with one of my road bikes. I really noticed it when I was climbing hills holding the handlebars tightly. But on the flats when I loosened my grip on the bars, there was no creaking. This solved the problem. Regards and safe cycling, Tony
I think this is what I'm hearing on my diverge maybe. Yesterday I had to pull up on the bars to lift the front wheel to go up a hump in the ground and my bike creaked. I was able to replicate it over and over again by lifting. It freaked me out I was thinking maybe I broke the carbon if the fork/steerer
Sounds more like a loose headset. Check out our headset adjustment video: ua-cam.com/video/N0Zagtnyhys/v-deo.html If you broke or cracked the fork/steerer you find the bike very difficult to steer and keep in a straight line on the road or trail. I know since I've cracked several over the course of my cycling career. Let me know how you make out. Regards and safe cycling, Tony
@@tony10speed ya my conclusion is that it's not the carbon steerer or fork being cracked and it just needs to have some paste applied. I recently had to add some to the seatpost because that was creaking so it must be similar
@@akkoonassis9045 You may just need to remove, clean and re-grease the handlebar clamp. However, on one bike I worked on, the problem was that the steering tube of the fork need to be cleaned and re-greased. It's a little more of a job to take apart, grease, re-assemble and adjust the headset. Try the handlebar stem clamp first since that's easier. Don't forget to clean and lubricate the the bolts of the clamp and tighten to manufacturers torque specs so they bolts won't loosen up while riding (seen it happen and the whole handlebar and brake/shifter rotate forward - not good). Let me know how you make out. Regards, Tony
I’m having the same exact issue. I installed a new stem, I thought maybe it was in the bearing, I’ve had it apart several times, it’s got plenty of preload, I’ve torque all of the handlebar hardware. I did not use this paste though, might be time to purchase some.
I had an issue with one of my restored bikes where it made a creaking despite cleaning the handlebar clamp, using Carbon Paste, and torquing to specifications. My problem turned out to be a loose headset (despite the fact I didn't hear a "clunk" when braking). Replacing the headset bolt with a new longer bolt and tightening a little more until the wheel did not freely turn back and forth, then backing off the headset bolt just a bit solved the creaking noise. Just something else to consider. Regards and safe cycling, Tony
@@tony10speed yeah, I’ve loosened and retighten the headset stem a couple times. I tighten it enough, so it doesn’t rattle when I bounce the front end up and down. I truly think it’s in the stem/bars bc I just installed a new stem. I greased the bolts on the handlebars too. I’ll eventually get it…I can only get it to repeat when rolling with pressure on bars.
Be sure the stem is the right size for the bar. They can vary by .2mm and an improper fit can cause noise or even slippage. Also, I've seen creaking coming from carbon handlebars probably from some flection of the bar due to thin-walled and large-volume cross-sections. Safe cycling, Tony@@rodb4523
The compound most likely have silica (sand) that will damage paint. The new handlebars are smooth and painted (or anodized) black most of the times. This is specially noticeable on black seatposts. Try not to put compound unless no other options. Grease does not work as well, because it requires greater tightening force to achieve the same effect. Some people use the anti seize compound, which I found to be the least evil.
I prefer Fibrogrip which has small Teflon particles (not silica) allowing for tightening at the lower end of the torque specifications and prevents slipping. Fibrogrip is made for carbon fiber but can be used with any handlebars or seat post with out scratching surfaces. Regards, Tony
Did you clean the handlebar clamp and apply Fibro Grip before tightening? Did you check the headset for knocking or creaking? See: ua-cam.com/video/N0Zagtnyhys/v-deo.html Also check the quick release or thru axle. See: ua-cam.com/video/XQCrqDXwycA/v-deo.html Finally, it could be the headset bearings and you may need to overhaul the headset (or have you local bike store take a look) if other sources of creaking / clunking are ruled out. Remember that noise can be transmitted thru the frame making it difficult to pin point. Good luck and let me know how you make out. Regards, Tony
I do this but use grease on bolts and bars and do it every 3-6 months I have always do it this way but if you do things the way you do and it works carry on
I'm not sure you need to clean and regrease the handlebar bolts and clamps that often. Using Fiber Grip allows compression of the particles in this lubricate when you torque to the manufacturer's specification - preventing slippage. I use medium strength lock threader (Loctite blue) on the bolts of the handlebar clap to prevent loosening. It shouldn't need service unless one hears creaking. Although, if you ride often in wet conditions, yearly cleaning and maintenance at the most would suffice. Regards, Tony
Tony, this sounds like my problem, but I'm pushing down on the handlebars not pulling - the creaking only happens when I'm standing on my pedals up a steep hill. Do you also mean "pushing" as well as pulling? Thank you!
When you're standing on the pedal, you may not be aware that you are pulling as well as pushing. But yes, both can cause creaking. It's not a difficult problem to solve. Take a picture of the handlebars from the side with your camera. This way you'll know how far up or down to rotate the handlebar when you go to replace it. Remove the handlebar clamp bolts. Clean everything including the bolts. I use Fiber Grip on the clamp where it contacts the handlebar (has small particles that compress to prevent the handlebars from rotating down), use Loctite BLUE on the bolts. Reassemble and torque bolts to specs (consult manufacturer if not written on stem or clamp). Let me know how you make out. Regards, Tony
@@tony10speed you are so kind to reply in such detail and include a recap of what you showed in the video. I'm pretty insecure about working on my bike - afraid I won't tighten it enough since I don't have tools. Is this area that creaks a danger to me, or just an annoyance? Thanks again.
@@WendyWahman The most important aspect to consider it that the handlebar clamp is secure and the clamp bolts have been torqued to proper specifications. Otherwise, the handlebars may rotate downward as you're riding which can be dangerous. I would have your local bike shop remove the clamp, clean and lubricate, and re-install the bolts with Loctite Blue and tighten to manufacturers specifications. Although you might go many months without problems, I, myself, would fix the problem before it becomes serious. Let me know how you make out. Tony
@@tony10speed Thank you so much. It was mostly fixed at a shop 3 months ago but has gotten progressively squeakier. I'll take it back. Thanks so much for replying and helping.
I regreased literally everything in headset, but the clicks are still there. It is usually fine when I start riding for about 5-10 minutes, but after some bumps clicks return. And they happen only when I hit a bump or pit. What it might be? Thanks
Do you mean you regreased the handlebar clamp or the headset itself? A loose headset can give you a click or knock when you hit a bump or on braking. See: ua-cam.com/video/N0Zagtnyhys/v-deo.html&ab_channel=TonyMarchand But there are other possibilities that may not be obvious: Bottom Bracket - See: ua-cam.com/video/InW64uutftM/v-deo.html&ab_channel=TonyMarchand Loose quick release or loose spoke - See: ua-cam.com/video/wEWB4OfV6lM/v-deo.html Seatpost - See: ua-cam.com/video/AjddeJ2m4ss/v-deo.html&ab_channel=TonyMarchand These are places to start. For more, see our entire playlist: ua-cam.com/play/PLYbCdE49qIMf1-CeTxvYbd617sEklOxb7.html Regards, Tony
I had a creak on a bike with square tapered bb and I thought the frame was going to brake when I was climbing. It turned out to be a loose chainring bolt.
Good tip. Sometime hard to identify where the creak is coming from. I, as you did, check the easiest things first such as are the chainring bolts torqued to manufactures specifications. Thanks for the tip. Regards, Tony
Creaking noise is not only annoying but may indicate an underlying problem. In the case of the handlebar clamp, there are several problems: 1. The creaking could be a lack of proper lubricant (proper grease or carbon fiber paste such as Fiber Grip). This in turn could lead to excessive wear of components and/or bolts. We wouldn't want to see a failure of either. 2. Lack of proper bond between the handlebar clamp above can also lead to handlebar slippage - the brake/shifters suddenly dropping down out of your control. 3. Over tightening of bolts can lead to creaking noise and bolt failure or breakage. I pay attention to all bike noise and investigate each to the best of my ability. Time and patience are required. Safety is the main issue.
Last week I applied fibre grip paste and it made no difference. After I found your video I repeated the process but this time added the Loctite blue and it cut down the creaking 95%. It’s way better but I still have some creaks. Could it be stem bolts too?
Could be that the headset bearings need cleaning and grease. Where did you add the Loctite blue? To the handlebar stem bolts or to the area you used the Fiber Grip Paste?
Fibrer Grip is different from normal grease. It contains small Teflon like particles that allow for compression and prevent slippage at a slightly lower torque. This compression prevents slippage and also decreases noise from the handlebar clamp. Although made for Carbon Fiber, we use it on all our handlebar clamps and seat posts.
Are the bars carbon fiber (some carbon fiber bars have alot of flex and creak)? Do you have the correct size bars for the stem you are using? If the bars are too small, no matter how tight you make the bar clamp you will hear noise. If too large, the clamp will not grab the bars properly. Could what you hear be coming from some where else although it seems to be from the bars? Are the quick release or thru axles thight? Hold the breaks and push the bike forward. Is there movement in the headset? Check your cleats and pedals for wear. Do the pedal need to be removed, spindles greased and retightened? Sometimes creaking that seems to be the handlebars turns out to be the bottom bracket. Check the easiest things first and proceed in a logical order. Sounds get referred along the frame and fork requiring patience and time to find the source. Let me know how you make out.
If you have a road bike, most likely your handlebars and stem are an aluminium alloy although titanium handlebars are available. Grease or anti-seize will work but my preference is Fiber Grip on the handlebar clamp even if they are non-carbon to decrease noise, vibration and slippage.
Hi! My cycle is Roman Bike XT-780x. I bought it last month, brand new, and now it is making a squeaky noise when I'm turning the handlebar. I thought that there might be some rust due to which it is making a noise. But when I checked there wasn't any rust. Secondly, there is a clicking noise in the rear tyre. Please tell me the solution for these problems, I'm worried a lot😢
If it squeaks when you turn the handlebars, it sounds like the headset was over tightened. I have a video relating to the headset being too loose. The fix for being "too tight" involve loosing the stem and headset cap bolt and re-tightening as in the video: ua-cam.com/video/N0Zagtnyhys/v-deo.html&ab_channel=TonyMarchand and ua-cam.com/video/TihBJNn0Bck/v-deo.html The other possibility is that the headset "races" where not greased which involve taking the entire headset apart and greasing the proper components of the headset (a much bigger job). See: ua-cam.com/video/CfDbN6hTu_A/v-deo.html&ab_channel=GMBNTech As far as the clicking from the rear of the bicycle, does it happen when pedaling, coasting or both? Does it occur as a constant clicking, once every pedal revolution, once every third or so pedal revolution, more often? See: ua-cam.com/video/0_qZmXNS8PQ/v-deo.html&ab_channel=TonyMarchand Let me know. Regards, Tony
@@tony10speed Omg! The handlebar bar noise has gone away. I just loosened the screw, like the way you said. As far as the clicking sound is concerned, it comes when somebody is sitting and the cycle, and it comes when the cycle is stable as well as when I am pedaling it. It is a very annoying noise like tick tick. Thanks❤️
@@mairchishty6847 Just to make it clear, it clicks when you pedal or coasting (riding on the bike but not turning the crank). Is this correct? If so, several things should be checked: 1. Is there a loose spoke? Pluck each spoke like a guitar and see if there is one with a very low tone. You may be able to feel that it's loose. If so, you will want your bike shop to take a look and re-true the wheel. 2. Make sure the wheel is installed correctly and not hitting the brake pads (rim brakes) or rubbing on the disc brakes. You may want to remove the wheel and re-install it making sure it's centered. 3. If you have an odometer magnet or Garmin magnet, make sure it's not hitting the magnet "pickup" each time the wheel rotates. 4. Finally, it could be coming from the rear wheel freehub. No easy fix hear except to check with your local bike shop about solving this problem. You didn't mention how often you hear the click: Once every pedal revolution, once every wheel revolution, constant clicking? Regards, Tony
@@mairchishty6847 Check the above (but if there is no clicking while coasting, a freehub problem is less likely then the others listed). Also check for a stiff chain link. See: ua-cam.com/video/hklVw3KErKw/v-deo.html&ab_channel=TonyMarchand You can also check out our other video on clicking while pedaling: ua-cam.com/video/0_qZmXNS8PQ/v-deo.html&ab_channel=TonyMarchand Let me know how you make out. Regards, Tony
What happen if I over tightened my bolts in my stem does it destroy my stem ? Or create cracks ? Does it okay to over tighten my bolts even it is an alloy ? Im using an EC90 stem
Bolts are (usually) steel and stems are aluminum or carbon in most cases. Steel is much stronger than soft aluminum or brittle carbon. The torque rating is so you don't pull the threads out of the stem (strip the threads) or crush the bars. Torque ratings are especially important when you are using carbon in the bars or stem where you may crack and damage the carbon. So invest in a torque wrench and look up the specs for the torque for your stem (usually around 5 Nm but there is some variation). Regards, Tony
@@johny9083 It would appear the the handlebar diameter is too small for the stem clamp. Sometimes there are marking on both stem clamp and bars that tell you the diameter. Otherwise, you or your bike shop need to measure both. The cheapest option are handebar "shims" that are placed on the bars to make up the difference in size and hold the handlebars in place. I just ordered a pair for one of the bikes I'm working on. If there are no marking on the components or you don't have calipers to make the measurements, see your local bike store who can measure both. And tell them you want the shims (you don't need to replace the bars and stem unless they are an unusual size). Let me know how you make out. Regards, Tony
@@tony10speed i habe already a shim and it make fit in my drop bar and stem but my problem is that it still moving downward or twisting if I will apply higher force downward. Do I need to buy fiber grips ? Im thinking when I over tightened my bolts the stem and drop bar will crack.
If you let up on the handlebars as you are riding, does the sound go away. That would indicate that you need to follow the steps in our video. One note: If your handlebars are made of carbon, see if you can produce and flex by pushing on one side then the other. Such flex would indicate a defect in the carbon and the handlebars should be replaced. Sounds that seem to becoming from the handlebars could be coming from other sources. See our video: ua-cam.com/video/wEWB4OfV6lM/v-deo.html&ab_channel=TonyMarchand Regards, Tony
@@keshavlakhera690 I wonder if the stem clamp for the handlebars is the correct size for the handlebars. All I can add is to have you're local bike shop take a look. I wish I could do more but trying to solve this problem over the internet is a challenge.
If you're talking about the bar tape, yes. I normally seal the ends of the tape by wrapping it with electrical tape. Better then the strips that come with the tape. Hope this answers your question. If not, let me have some more details on the product you're replacing. Regards, Tony
@@sergeyb6071 Electrical tape will eventually erode under the pressure and move around creating noise and even a handlebar which will slip. A good thought but not practical. Regards, Tony
If it's coming from the front end on rough roads or under heavy load when climbing. It may well be the handlebars as in the video which should fix the problem. But I've also experienced in coming from the headset. Here's how to overhaul and grease the headset bearings: ua-cam.com/video/BqzpkW2vxuI/v-deo.html&ab_channel=SickBiker Let me know how you make out. Regards, Tony
Thread locker such as Loctite are designed to lock and seal threaded fasteners to prevent loosening from vibration. It prevents leaks and the rusting of threads. It eliminates the need to stock expensive lock nuts and lock washers. It sets in the absence of oxygen. I suggest Loctite blue (medium strength) for most cases since you may eventually want to remove the part.
That's true. But when I make it shorter and don't go out of may way to show all steps, others complain it's not all inclusive. My own feeling is to try to include all the detail, so even the beginner mechanic can follow all the steps. But that's just me. Safe cycling, Tony
![[UA] NAVI проти G2 Esports | Blast Premier Fall Final](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/QWlIm4FGESQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Yup. That is exactly what is happening with my bike Tony. You nailed the exact symptoms I was having!
It's happen to me. Glad to be of help. Also visit our UA-cam home site at:
ua-cam.com/users/MrTony10speed
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
I love this. I accidentally found out the location of the sound on my bike and came to this video to see how to fix it. I went to a lot of bike shops in my city and none of them could figure it out. Thank you Tony! :)
Glad you were able to solve the problem. I've had the very same problem on one of my titanium bikes which is the reason I made the video. Regards, Tony
Thank you very much for this video. I have the exact same problem.
Let me know how you make out. Regards, Tony
best video on the subject. thank you.
You're Welcome. Also visit our UA-cam home site at:
ua-cam.com/users/MrTony10speed
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Great channel full of helpful tips and hints, new subscriber thanks for the uploads.
You are welcome. Glad you find the videos helpful. Regards, Tony
@@tony10speed strange, I have aluminum handlebars, but I have this noise, but I have carbon spacers? aluminum handlebars make that noise?
@@BikeIsLife4EverGG Most handlebar these days are aluminum with some newer that are carbon fiber. And yes, aluminum and carbon fiber handlebars can creak (the carbon fiber spacers are not the cause). You may need to remove the handlebar clamp, clean and use Fiber Grip carbon paste (even with aluminum bars) because the Fiber Grip allows for better compression of the handlebar, less friction and less noise. Regards, Tony
Hi Tony, from Brazil. Amazing Man!! I'm I was just looking for a solution for my case: i checked pedals, seat tube, headset, cranckset, and nothing solved my problem. So, i saw this vídeo, and i used the blue loctite in the steam bolts and the creak sound dissapear. Thanks a Lot for this maintenance classe!!!
Finding where the noise is coming from is usually the biggest challenge, especially when dealing with clicking or creaking. Congratulations on finding the problem and the easy solution. In some cases, one needs to also remove the handlebars, clean the clamp area and I usually apply Fiber Grip (used for carbon fiber but allows for a better seal with all materials including aluminum and steel at a lower end of the recommended torque recommendations) to the area of the clamp that comes in contact with the handlebars.
Also visit our UA-cam home site at:
ua-cam.com/users/MrTony10speed
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Another good tip is to mark the clamp/bar with Whiteout. This will assist in assembly at both axis. And easy to clean off.
Great idea. Thanks for the tip.
Great video once again! Thank you
You're Welcome. Also visit our UA-cam home site at:
ua-cam.com/users/MrTony10speed
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
This is exactly what started happening on my new mtb after 2 months of riding and it was loud and annoying . I knew it was coming from the head clamp. I’ll be getting the grease for sure.
If you note creaking when pulling on the handlebars that seems to go away when you ease up on the bars on flat terrain, it's probably the clamp as you mention.
I like to clean the clamp and bolts and then use a carbon paste such as Fiber Grip since it has small particles that allow compression at a lower torque setting. Be sure to grease (or, even better, use Loctite Blue on the clamp bolts so they won't loosen) and to check out the manufacturers torque settings for the clamp bolts (sometimes it's written directly on the clamp or stem). Let me know how you make out. Regards, Tony
Thanks I just ordered some fiber grip
Creaks are always such a doozy - once I got really worried over a creak that turned out to be coming from my helmet visor! With how loud it was coming from right on top of my head I thought I had managed to crack my frame or something.
Great story. I agree that locating the source of the creak, squeak or click can be a real challenge. In this case, it was only when I noticed that the harder I pulled on the handlebars, the more prominent the noise. Thanks for sharing. Tony
Very helpful video thanks
Glad it helped. I, myself, had this problem with one of my road bikes. I really noticed it when I was climbing hills holding the handlebars tightly. But on the flats when I loosened my grip on the bars, there was no creaking. This solved the problem.
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Great and very useful video
Glad it was helpful. Regards and safe cycling, Tony
you are a hero
I think this is what I'm hearing on my diverge maybe. Yesterday I had to pull up on the bars to lift the front wheel to go up a hump in the ground and my bike creaked. I was able to replicate it over and over again by lifting. It freaked me out I was thinking maybe I broke the carbon if the fork/steerer
Sounds more like a loose headset. Check out our headset adjustment video:
ua-cam.com/video/N0Zagtnyhys/v-deo.html
If you broke or cracked the fork/steerer you find the bike very difficult to steer and keep in a straight line on the road or trail. I know since I've cracked several over the course of my cycling career. Let me know how you make out. Regards and safe cycling, Tony
@@tony10speed ya my conclusion is that it's not the carbon steerer or fork being cracked and it just needs to have some paste applied. I recently had to add some to the seatpost because that was creaking so it must be similar
@@akkoonassis9045 You may just need to remove, clean and re-grease the handlebar clamp. However, on one bike I worked on, the problem was that the steering tube of the fork need to be cleaned and re-greased. It's a little more of a job to take apart, grease, re-assemble and adjust the headset. Try the handlebar stem clamp first since that's easier. Don't forget to clean and lubricate the the bolts of the clamp and tighten to manufacturers torque specs so they bolts won't loosen up while riding (seen it happen and the whole handlebar and brake/shifter rotate forward - not good). Let me know how you make out. Regards, Tony
I’m having the same exact issue. I installed a new stem, I thought maybe it was in the bearing, I’ve had it apart several times, it’s got plenty of preload, I’ve torque all of the handlebar hardware. I did not use this paste though, might be time to purchase some.
I had an issue with one of my restored bikes where it made a creaking despite cleaning the handlebar clamp, using Carbon Paste, and torquing to specifications. My problem turned out to be a loose headset (despite the fact I didn't hear a "clunk" when braking). Replacing the headset bolt with a new longer bolt and tightening a little more until the wheel did not freely turn back and forth, then backing off the headset bolt just a bit solved the creaking noise. Just something else to consider. Regards and safe cycling, Tony
@@tony10speed yeah, I’ve loosened and retighten the headset stem a couple times. I tighten it enough, so it doesn’t rattle when I bounce the front end up and down. I truly think it’s in the stem/bars bc I just installed a new stem. I greased the bolts on the handlebars too. I’ll eventually get it…I can only get it to repeat when rolling with pressure on bars.
Be sure the stem is the right size for the bar. They can vary by .2mm and an improper fit can cause noise or even slippage. Also, I've seen creaking coming from carbon handlebars probably from some flection of the bar due to thin-walled and large-volume cross-sections. Safe cycling, Tony@@rodb4523
Awesome channel
Thank you. Regards and safe cycling, Tony
@@tony10speed no, thank you for the amazing content. New sub
The compound most likely have silica (sand) that will damage paint. The new handlebars are smooth and painted (or anodized) black most of the times. This is specially noticeable on black seatposts. Try not to put compound unless no other options. Grease does not work as well, because it requires greater tightening force to achieve the same effect. Some people use the anti seize compound, which I found to be the least evil.
I prefer Fibrogrip which has small Teflon particles (not silica) allowing for tightening at the lower end of the torque specifications and prevents slipping. Fibrogrip is made for carbon fiber but can be used with any handlebars or seat post with out scratching surfaces. Regards, Tony
Great chan el, just suscribed!
Thanks. We'll try to keep up the good work. Regards, Tony
I have tighten those bolts and that sound still on I think is the bearings
Did you clean the handlebar clamp and apply Fibro Grip before tightening?
Did you check the headset for knocking or creaking? See:
ua-cam.com/video/N0Zagtnyhys/v-deo.html
Also check the quick release or thru axle. See:
ua-cam.com/video/XQCrqDXwycA/v-deo.html
Finally, it could be the headset bearings and you may need to overhaul the headset (or have you local bike store take a look) if other sources of creaking / clunking are ruled out.
Remember that noise can be transmitted thru the frame making it difficult to pin point. Good luck and let me know how you make out. Regards, Tony
I do this but use grease on bolts and bars and do it every 3-6 months I have always do it this way but if you do things the way you do and it works carry on
I'm not sure you need to clean and regrease the handlebar bolts and clamps that often. Using Fiber Grip allows compression of the particles in this lubricate when you torque to the manufacturer's specification - preventing slippage. I use medium strength lock threader (Loctite blue) on the bolts of the handlebar clap to prevent loosening. It shouldn't need service unless one hears creaking. Although, if you ride often in wet conditions, yearly cleaning and maintenance at the most would suffice. Regards, Tony
Tony, this sounds like my problem, but I'm pushing down on the handlebars not pulling - the creaking only happens when I'm standing on my pedals up a steep hill. Do you also mean "pushing" as well as pulling? Thank you!
When you're standing on the pedal, you may not be aware that you are pulling as well as pushing. But yes, both can cause creaking. It's not a difficult problem to solve. Take a picture of the handlebars from the side with your camera. This way you'll know how far up or down to rotate the handlebar when you go to replace it. Remove the handlebar clamp bolts. Clean everything including the bolts. I use Fiber Grip on the clamp where it contacts the handlebar (has small particles that compress to prevent the handlebars from rotating down), use Loctite BLUE on the bolts. Reassemble and torque bolts to specs (consult manufacturer if not written on stem or clamp). Let me know how you make out. Regards, Tony
@@tony10speed you are so kind to reply in such detail and include a recap of what you showed in the video. I'm pretty insecure about working on my bike - afraid I won't tighten it enough since I don't have tools. Is this area that creaks a danger to me, or just an annoyance? Thanks again.
@@WendyWahman The most important aspect to consider it that the handlebar clamp is secure and the clamp bolts have been torqued to proper specifications. Otherwise, the handlebars may rotate downward as you're riding which can be dangerous. I would have your local bike shop remove the clamp, clean and lubricate, and re-install the bolts with Loctite Blue and tighten to manufacturers specifications. Although you might go many months without problems, I, myself, would fix the problem before it becomes serious.
Let me know how you make out. Tony
@@tony10speed Thank you so much. It was mostly fixed at a shop 3 months ago but has gotten progressively squeakier. I'll take it back. Thanks so much for replying and helping.
I regreased literally everything in headset, but the clicks are still there. It is usually fine when I start riding for about 5-10 minutes, but after some bumps clicks return. And they happen only when I hit a bump or pit. What it might be? Thanks
Do you mean you regreased the handlebar clamp or the headset itself? A loose headset can give you a click or knock when you hit a bump or on braking. See:
ua-cam.com/video/N0Zagtnyhys/v-deo.html&ab_channel=TonyMarchand
But there are other possibilities that may not be obvious:
Bottom Bracket - See: ua-cam.com/video/InW64uutftM/v-deo.html&ab_channel=TonyMarchand
Loose quick release or loose spoke - See: ua-cam.com/video/wEWB4OfV6lM/v-deo.html
Seatpost - See: ua-cam.com/video/AjddeJ2m4ss/v-deo.html&ab_channel=TonyMarchand
These are places to start. For more, see our entire playlist:
ua-cam.com/play/PLYbCdE49qIMf1-CeTxvYbd617sEklOxb7.html
Regards, Tony
I had a creak on a bike with square tapered bb and I thought the frame was going to brake when I was climbing. It turned out to be a loose chainring bolt.
Good tip. Sometime hard to identify where the creak is coming from. I, as you did, check the easiest things first such as are the chainring bolts torqued to manufactures specifications. Thanks for the tip. Regards, Tony
aside from the annoying creaking noise, is it at all dangerous?
Creaking noise is not only annoying but may indicate an underlying problem. In the case of the handlebar clamp, there are several problems:
1. The creaking could be a lack of proper lubricant (proper grease or carbon fiber paste such as Fiber Grip). This in turn could lead to excessive wear of components and/or bolts. We wouldn't want to see a failure of either.
2. Lack of proper bond between the handlebar clamp above can also lead to handlebar slippage - the brake/shifters suddenly dropping down out of your control.
3. Over tightening of bolts can lead to creaking noise and bolt failure or breakage.
I pay attention to all bike noise and investigate each to the best of my ability. Time and patience are required. Safety is the main issue.
Where else might you use fiber grip on none carbon bikes?
Seatpost. I'll have a video on this in a couple of weeks.
Last week I applied fibre grip paste and it made no difference. After I found your video I repeated the process but this time added the Loctite blue and it cut down the creaking 95%. It’s way better but I still have some creaks. Could it be stem bolts too?
Could be that the headset bearings need cleaning and grease. Where did you add the Loctite blue? To the handlebar stem bolts or to the area you used the Fiber Grip Paste?
If you put grease on the clamp wouldn’t that make the handlebars spin?
Fibrer Grip is different from normal grease. It contains small Teflon like particles that allow for compression and prevent slippage at a slightly lower torque. This compression prevents slippage and also decreases noise from the handlebar clamp. Although made for Carbon Fiber, we use it on all our handlebar clamps and seat posts.
Did this and my bars are still creaking, any reason why?
Are the bars carbon fiber (some carbon fiber bars have alot of flex and creak)? Do you have the correct size bars for the stem you are using? If the bars are too small, no matter how tight you make the bar clamp you will hear noise. If too large, the clamp will not grab the bars properly.
Could what you hear be coming from some where else although it seems to be from the bars?
Are the quick release or thru axles thight?
Hold the breaks and push the bike forward. Is there movement in the headset?
Check your cleats and pedals for wear.
Do the pedal need to be removed, spindles greased and retightened?
Sometimes creaking that seems to be the handlebars turns out to be the bottom bracket.
Check the easiest things first and proceed in a logical order. Sounds get referred along the frame and fork requiring patience and time to find the source. Let me know how you make out.
I've used just grease on my titanium bike with no problems.
If you have a road bike, most likely your handlebars and stem are an aluminium alloy although titanium handlebars are available. Grease or anti-seize will work but my preference is Fiber Grip on the handlebar clamp even if they are non-carbon to decrease noise, vibration and slippage.
Hi! My cycle is Roman Bike XT-780x. I bought it last month, brand new, and now it is making a squeaky noise when I'm turning the handlebar. I thought that there might be some rust due to which it is making a noise. But when I checked there wasn't any rust. Secondly, there is a clicking noise in the rear tyre. Please tell me the solution for these problems, I'm worried a lot😢
If it squeaks when you turn the handlebars, it sounds like the headset was over tightened. I have a video relating to the headset being too loose. The fix for being "too tight" involve loosing the stem and headset cap bolt and re-tightening as in the video:
ua-cam.com/video/N0Zagtnyhys/v-deo.html&ab_channel=TonyMarchand
and
ua-cam.com/video/TihBJNn0Bck/v-deo.html
The other possibility is that the headset "races" where not greased which involve taking the entire headset apart and greasing the proper components of the headset (a much bigger job). See:
ua-cam.com/video/CfDbN6hTu_A/v-deo.html&ab_channel=GMBNTech
As far as the clicking from the rear of the bicycle, does it happen when pedaling, coasting or both? Does it occur as a constant clicking, once every pedal revolution, once every third or so pedal revolution, more often? See:
ua-cam.com/video/0_qZmXNS8PQ/v-deo.html&ab_channel=TonyMarchand
Let me know. Regards, Tony
@@tony10speed Omg! The handlebar bar noise has gone away. I just loosened the screw, like the way you said. As far as the clicking sound is concerned, it comes when somebody is sitting and the cycle, and it comes when the cycle is stable as well as when I am pedaling it. It is a very annoying noise like tick tick. Thanks❤️
@@mairchishty6847 Just to make it clear, it clicks when you pedal or coasting (riding on the bike but not turning the crank). Is this correct? If so, several things should be checked:
1. Is there a loose spoke? Pluck each spoke like a guitar and see if there is one with a very low tone. You may be able to feel that it's loose. If so, you will want your bike shop to take a look and re-true the wheel.
2. Make sure the wheel is installed correctly and not hitting the brake pads (rim brakes) or rubbing on the disc brakes. You may want to remove the wheel and re-install it making sure it's centered.
3. If you have an odometer magnet or Garmin magnet, make sure it's not hitting the magnet "pickup" each time the wheel rotates.
4. Finally, it could be coming from the rear wheel freehub. No easy fix hear except to check with your local bike shop about solving this problem.
You didn't mention how often you hear the click: Once every pedal revolution, once every wheel revolution, constant clicking?
Regards, Tony
@@tony10speed It clicks when I'm pedaling, once every wheel revolution.
@@mairchishty6847 Check the above (but if there is no clicking while coasting, a freehub problem is less likely then the others listed). Also check for a stiff chain link. See:
ua-cam.com/video/hklVw3KErKw/v-deo.html&ab_channel=TonyMarchand
You can also check out our other video on clicking while pedaling:
ua-cam.com/video/0_qZmXNS8PQ/v-deo.html&ab_channel=TonyMarchand
Let me know how you make out. Regards, Tony
What happen if I over tightened my bolts in my stem does it destroy my stem ? Or create cracks ?
Does it okay to over tighten my bolts even it is an alloy ?
Im using an EC90 stem
Bolts are (usually) steel and stems are aluminum or carbon in most cases. Steel is much stronger than soft aluminum or brittle carbon. The torque rating is so you don't pull the threads out of the stem (strip the threads) or crush the bars. Torque ratings are especially important when you are using carbon in the bars or stem where you may crack and damage the carbon. So invest in a torque wrench and look up the specs for the torque for your stem (usually around 5 Nm but there is some variation).
Regards, Tony
@@tony10speed sir I dont have torque wrench and even I over tightened the bolts my drop bar is still moving downward
@@johny9083 It would appear the the handlebar diameter is too small for the stem clamp. Sometimes there are marking on both stem clamp and bars that tell you the diameter. Otherwise, you or your bike shop need to measure both. The cheapest option are handebar "shims" that are placed on the bars to make up the difference in size and hold the handlebars in place. I just ordered a pair for one of the bikes I'm working on. If there are no marking on the components or you don't have calipers to make the measurements, see your local bike store who can measure both. And tell them you want the shims (you don't need to replace the bars and stem unless they are an unusual size). Let me know how you make out. Regards, Tony
@@tony10speed i habe already a shim and it make fit in my drop bar and stem but my problem is that it still moving downward or twisting if I will apply higher force downward. Do I need to buy fiber grips ?
Im thinking when I over tightened my bolts the stem and drop bar will crack.
My bicycle handlebar sound wiered when i am moving it
If you let up on the handlebars as you are riding, does the sound go away. That would indicate that you need to follow the steps in our video. One note: If your handlebars are made of carbon, see if you can produce and flex by pushing on one side then the other. Such flex would indicate a defect in the carbon and the handlebars should be replaced.
Sounds that seem to becoming from the handlebars could be coming from other sources. See our video:
ua-cam.com/video/wEWB4OfV6lM/v-deo.html&ab_channel=TonyMarchand
Regards, Tony
Sound doesn't stop also if i am riding a bike
@@keshavlakhera690 Did you try the measures mentioned above and in the video?
@@tony10speed yeah i have tried all the step you have mentioned in the video
@@keshavlakhera690 I wonder if the stem clamp for the handlebars is the correct size for the handlebars. All I can add is to have you're local bike shop take a look. I wish I could do more but trying to solve this problem over the internet is a challenge.
can i replace product with a small amount of an electrical tape? thanks
If you're talking about the bar tape, yes. I normally seal the ends of the tape by wrapping it with electrical tape. Better then the strips that come with the tape. Hope this answers your question. If not, let me have some more details on the product you're replacing.
Regards, Tony
@@tony10speed hi Tony thanks for reply, no I meant placing the tape instead of the fiber grip, that could prevent it from creaking.
@@sergeyb6071 Electrical tape will eventually erode under the pressure and move around creating noise and even a handlebar which will slip. A good thought but not practical. Regards, Tony
@@tony10speed yes, indeed, I tried it today, definitely not the greatest fix
Creaking when rough road.
If it's coming from the front end on rough roads or under heavy load when climbing. It may well be the handlebars as in the video which should fix the problem. But I've also experienced in coming from the headset. Here's how to overhaul and grease the headset bearings:
ua-cam.com/video/BqzpkW2vxuI/v-deo.html&ab_channel=SickBiker
Let me know how you make out. Regards, Tony
What does the loctite do?
Thread locker such as Loctite are designed to lock and seal threaded fasteners to prevent loosening from vibration. It prevents leaks and the rusting of threads. It eliminates the need to stock expensive lock nuts and lock washers. It sets in the absence of oxygen. I suggest Loctite blue (medium strength) for most cases since you may eventually want to remove the part.
I feel like this video could've been half as long....
That's true. But when I make it shorter and don't go out of may way to show all steps, others complain it's not all inclusive. My own feeling is to try to include all the detail, so even the beginner mechanic can follow all the steps. But that's just me. Safe cycling, Tony