Eversharp Nib & Feed Tuning
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- Опубліковано 2 жов 2024
- An attempt to improve writing of a remake of the Eversharp Skyline. I want to use the pen but doesn't write as I want. Using feeler gauges & emery boards I work on nib & feed. Also included a feed comparison.
Many thanks for this, Chris. I have used the feeler gauge method and it works really well, irrespective of the nib type and material. The key thing here is patience! Gradually increasing the gauge widths and checking each time. Also, with a new set of gauges, you need to be sure to wipe off each one you use as they are treated with a light coat of oil at the factory in order to prevent corrosion.
Great points. Thanks for sharing & watching.
Thank you, Chris. I have brass shims but would like to try the feeler gauges. I really like your maintenance and restoration videos.
Thanks. I try to show some ways to work on pens. There are many.
Beautiful operational technical analysis on nibs and feeders. Certainly, high level interventions that require a lot of attention in order not to compromise the original fountain pen engineering. Many thanks Chris for your sharing created with great passion!
Great video keep it up!, how would the aurora flex nibs compare to your soft nib in the pilot custom 91? Thanks!
Chris, this seemed like it would be an interesting video. Shame YT interrupts about evey 90 seconds tor a pair of 🤬🤬🤬 ads, making it unwatchable. (unwatchable to me. I loathe all the ads. If I wanted to watch ads I would turn on my TV.)
YT added ads to all my videos last year. I tried to remove as many of the in video ads as I could. They are now removed from this video. Hope you can enjoy it now.
perhaps, if a pen requires an inordinate amount of pressure for its ink to flow well, it could be because the nib is pressed up against feed too closely.
Could also be baby bottom.
I had a Waterman that the flow did not work. I took it to FPH and Steve too out a single edge razor blade and drew it through the channel. I was shocked and it did the job. The ink flowed well. I wondered if the thickness of the blade would work on the tines. I never did it. I probably would have sliced my fingers.
I have a feelers gauge I use to open tines, remember those? Start with real thin, write, if need go thicker. Won't cut your finger.
Hi Chris: After hearing your comment that modern (thermoplastic) feeds are quite complex, I searched back in history on a video I viewed some time ago that discusses the various elements of a feed and how ink flow and air exchange are typically designed to work. Thought you might be interested, if you haven't seen it already: ua-cam.com/video/VEUzd0E6k0Y/v-deo.html
Thanks I've seen it. Good ideas but doesn't address channel on underside of most feeds or the complex channels & fins. Addresses one issue many feeds have some time.
I use a #5fp nibs ebonite and it works great
Good to know.
also, this kind of line variation would lend itself nicely to sketching/drawing.
I too have a very similar problem, it is not that the pen will not write, it is just the fact that a lot of pressure is needed to start the flow, having done all that you have on the nib and feed I have come to the conclusion that it is that the tines are just too tight right at the end, this has the effect of shutting of the capillary feed, until you open them up with more pressure than I would normally want to use, I think the answer here is to ease out the gap at the end of the tines, your nib, just like mine, writes very wet once the ink flow starts, but once it has been layed aside for just a few minutes it is a problem to get going, until the tines are opened, in fact I can actually see the ink moving down between the tines as I flex the nib. The strange complicated feeds that we now see are, I am sure, just because they can make them like that, there seems no good reason for this added complexity given that a Wahl Doric, or similar, will write without problems, and a wet as you want, the makers seem to be heading down a road getting more and more complicated feeds, as if it is a race to see who can make the most complicated design. If we look at a vintage Wahl,or Onoto, they have no such complexities, but work better. Chris B.
Thanks for your explanation. Makes sense. I tried to open tines with the feeler gauges. Went as far as I was comfortable. I agree on feeds, no need for complexity.
G’day Chris, you have done all things right and been very meticulous with your method of tuning, working through the process of
elimination. I use the same process/method as Matthew Beddow, having purchased tuning kit apparatus from the Goulet Pen Company(hope I can mention this) with success and still using them. I agree with his “baby’s bottom” issue findings and probably also more to do with the tightness of the tines. I think this is the root cause, in my humble opinion, as when you applied pressure causing the tines to widen/spread; resulting in good flow of ink. I know that you have done your utmost in trying to widen the gap of the tines, which I have experienced, experimenting with cheap pens. I did however persevered and manage to overcome this issue. I am by no means an authority on tuning nibs but through trial and error have had some success and also looking to learn more from others.
Hope this helps and good luck. Cheers.
Couldn't agree with you more. If you can spare the time take a look at a blog by a young Aussie under his UA-cam name of JPL on his topic of "MORE FLEX From Fountain Pen DIY". It put a smile on my face for a younger man(than us) to dabble with fountain pens and his down-to-earth and call it as he sees it approach, kinda remind me of you. I did put my 2 cents worth of comments of course ;-). Enjoy.
Watching his videos. Like his approach. Being a youngster his experience is limited but his curiosity is great. He should try a Zebra nib for cheap flex. Also enjoy his views on Chinese pens. Thanks for the tip.
thank you very much for this tutorial and please continue this way
Can I get one Eversharp pen the old vintage one? If yes, pls send the snap of the same a d its price. Thnks
Send me your address to chris@rapseik.org
I am months late to add a comment to this video, but just to say, if that was my pen nib, I would try to get more gap between the tines right at the tipping area.
I don't buy many pens in any year, but the most common fault I've found is, the tines too close together giving very little ink flow. Using shims, I create a gap where I can see daylight through it, in a x10 loupe. Gap is somewhere around 3 thou inch. Then the nibs work as they should. Guess the makers don't have the time to set them up like this?
Excellent. Hand tuning nibs is expensive for a manufacturer to do. Many low end pens are mass produced. More expensive pens hand tune each nib. Glad to hear your pen now writes better. Thanks for watching.
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Hi Chris,
I have another question that seems to pertain to this content you posted: do some vintage feeds lack a channel that extends to the tip of the feed? I received an Aurora 88k from an ebay purchase that, when I pushed out the nib and feed, revealed a feed whose channel was seemingly missing, leaving a smooth area around end of the unit (the area which sits beneath the nib). It looked like there once existed a channel but it had been effaced from the feed over time. What do you think about this?
Clean out the channel, could be filled with dried ink. Channel does not need to extend to end, as long as it extends and feeds ink to nib slit.
Hi Chris , i think that the fact it write ok under pressure would suggest one of two things , there is a Baby's bottom issue of some kind or the tines are too tight ,that is my opinion . I would use micro mesh starting at a rough grade grit say 3600 ,doing figure eights and infinity patterns with the nib at high low and normal writing angle and work my way back up to 12000. if it starts to write better when its roughened then it was probably baby's bottom of some form. Also i gap my nibs so that 0.001" brass shim with just be held by the tines barely , this is something that Richard Binder recommends.
Hope that helps
Cheers