As a 24 year old plumber who owns a HVAC plumbing business I can tell you one you’re awesome for figuring this out on your own and plumbing is an amazing trade
I live in a four story walk up and this year the pipes are banging like never before. I'm going to look at the level of the rads in our place but I think the landlord will have to come in and drain the boiler as you did. Thanks for the vid. Now I can start the troubleshooting!
3:03 the horizontal box there is the auto water feeder it works like a low water cutoff and auto add water when low water level is detected. It could be broken that is why the boiler is over filled. 5:12 you need to turn the top and bottom ball valves to vertical this will bypass the auto feeder. Use the middle ball valve to manually add water until that defective feeder is replaced. Since the feeder is broken your LWCO could also be broken, so better manually check to make sure it is not. Very dangerous to have non working LWCO.
When he opened the lower valve on said "no water coming out of here so we are all set". NO, THATS THE PROBLEM YOUR RETURN LINE IS CLOGGED SO THE WATER TAKES TOO LONG TO RETURN TO THE BOILER THUS TRIGGERING THE LOWC, AND THE 12 PSI THING IS STUPID HI. HE HAS TO BE TROLLING.
i got knocking noise from radiators check valves next i did what next thing to the boiler and heat comes up no knocking very quiet feels like new thank you
Hi, I just bought and installed an expansion tank because boiler relief valve would spurt water violently and I got hammering sounds. I did not check the levels or adjust the expansion tank - I didn't know it was required, though the factory adjustment would be normal and useful. Not so - when I got the furnace going again, the same thing happened. Is it the expansion tank ? Could I have killed the tank in one shot ? I already replaced the systems water pump and regulator and thermocoupler.
The pressuretrol should be set at 1 and 3 , the differential set at two ,not 12 to 15 psi you took care of the noise by pitching the radiator that noise is caused by live steam coming in contact with accumulated trapped water. On steam boilers you should be draining a good bucket of water from the boiler once a month during the heating season. From the mud leg of the system. And would not recommend YOU setting or adjusting the pressuretrol in any way. As far as you finding people to take those service positions good luck now good luck. That would require hard work and long hours. Just sayin
Why need to wait for water ?!!!! i drained all water 3 buckets and start heater. Am i missing something ? why need to wait ? well but my water level did not go low though i can see from tube,
Thats a Cheap air valve/ heat timer. Dont buy 7- $8 air valves. I buy Only Verivale made in USA. They are expensive. I learned my lesson in the first years as a Super Intendant of 75 family building.
Yeah 12 to 15psi? No i dont think so Air removal, NOT pressure is needed to make steam function properly. Dry Steam typically moves at 30 to 50ft a second@1/2lb, bump it upto 5psi its moving @22ft second. Also increased pressure raises the temperature of steam.
This guy has no idea what he’s talking about your steam boiler should run a half a pound & the reason the water was so high was because he had no water going back to the boiler thats why when he opened up the wet return he had no water coming out
Can u elaborate more. How can the water be high when you have no water coming back to the boiler?? Where is the water coming from ?? I have a similar issue. Lately I've lower the water to about half and the next morning is all the way up fully filling the glass.
@@OSCARANDRES039 that auto fill is probably either set wrong or is defective.the water color was not healthy and the return may be plugged.when he opened that return drain there should still have been a little water draining. i would also check the pigtail to see if it is clear
1. 12-15psi on a residential steam boiler is clown shoes! What are you telling people?? 2. Why the hell is your boiler filled to the rafters? Is your AUTO fill bleeding through? 3. Maybe the brown mud you are cooking in the boiler could be contributing…. Just a thought. You are dangerous my friend…
As a 24 year old plumber who owns a HVAC plumbing business I can tell you one you’re awesome for figuring this out on your own and plumbing is an amazing trade
was he right about setting the psi 12 to 15 pounds pressure? asking for a friend :p
I live in a four story walk up and this year the pipes are banging like never before. I'm going to look at the level of the rads in our place but I think the landlord will have to come in and drain the boiler as you did. Thanks for the vid. Now I can start the troubleshooting!
1.5 psi max. 12 to 15 haha. No
3:03 the horizontal box there is the auto water feeder it works like a low water cutoff and auto add water when low water level is detected. It could be broken that is why the boiler is over filled. 5:12 you need to turn the top and bottom ball valves to vertical this will bypass the auto feeder. Use the middle ball valve to manually add water until that defective feeder is replaced. Since the feeder is broken your LWCO could also be broken, so better manually check to make sure it is not. Very dangerous to have non working LWCO.
You are correct sir about learning a trade...I think that your radiator valves, vents. were a culprit here...
Steam boiler should never be 12 to 15 pounds pressure. Set pressuretrol to 2 psi cut out pressure.
RLJ.....you need to figure out why the boiler overfilled, it may repeat.
Steam should never be over 2 psi
You're on step 12 of "The 25 Steps in the Repair of a Vacuum Steam System" 😉🤣
It's an old video but I am sure you had the same issue with the radiator the following day, right?
When he opened the lower valve on said "no water coming out of here so we are all set". NO, THATS THE PROBLEM YOUR RETURN LINE IS CLOGGED SO THE WATER TAKES TOO LONG TO RETURN TO THE BOILER THUS TRIGGERING THE LOWC, AND THE 12 PSI THING IS STUPID HI. HE HAS TO BE TROLLING.
i got knocking noise from radiators check valves next i did what next thing to the boiler and heat comes up no knocking very quiet feels like new thank you
Hi, I just bought and installed an expansion tank because boiler relief valve would spurt water violently and I got hammering sounds. I did not check the levels or adjust the expansion tank - I didn't know it was required, though the factory adjustment would be normal and useful. Not so - when I got the furnace going again, the same thing happened. Is it the expansion tank ? Could I have killed the tank in one shot ? I already replaced the systems water pump and regulator and thermocoupler.
You're hilarious! Nice job on the video
Very good tutorial, thank you for showing us how to fix the problem!
my steam system is set a a half pound and the differential wheel is set at 1. so maximum pressure is 1 1/2 psi
The pressuretrol should be set at 1 and 3 , the differential set at two ,not 12 to 15 psi you took care of the noise by pitching the radiator that noise is caused by live steam coming in contact with accumulated trapped water. On steam boilers you should be draining a good bucket of water from the boiler once a month during the heating season. From the mud leg of the system. And would not recommend YOU setting or adjusting the pressuretrol in any way. As far as you finding people to take those service positions good luck now good luck. That would require hard work and long hours. Just sayin
You want a steam boiler to run below 2PSI, not between 12 and 15 PSI, that would be for a hot water system, not steam.
For ur info rads have a built in pitch they must be installed on a level floor
Why need to wait for water ?!!!! i drained all water 3 buckets and start heater. Am i missing something ? why need to wait ? well but my water level did not go low though i can see from tube,
You do not want the pressure to be 12-15 psi. You want that on a forced hot water system not steam.
12 to 15 sounds extremely high for steam
12 to 15 psi is for hot water baseboard. Steam should be no more than 2 psi!!!
Thats a Cheap air valve/ heat timer. Dont buy 7- $8 air valves. I buy Only Verivale made in USA. They are expensive. I learned my lesson in the first years as a Super Intendant of 75 family building.
U should buy Gorton air valves that come size by letter and number depending on the floor they are being installed not thise cheap ones u used
Those auto feeders fail alot
Yeah 12 to 15psi? No i dont think so Air removal, NOT pressure is needed to make steam function properly. Dry Steam typically moves at 30 to 50ft a second@1/2lb, bump it upto 5psi its moving @22ft second. Also increased pressure raises the temperature of steam.
This guy has no idea what he’s talking about your steam boiler should run a half a pound & the reason the water was so high was because he had no water going back to the boiler thats why when he opened up the wet return he had no water coming out
Can u elaborate more. How can the water be high when you have no water coming back to the boiler?? Where is the water coming from ?? I have a similar issue. Lately I've lower the water to about half and the next morning is all the way up fully filling the glass.
You might have air inside your system
@@Jwr1230 its steam not forced hot water
@@OSCARANDRES039 that auto fill is probably either set wrong or is defective.the water color was not healthy and the return may be plugged.when he opened that return drain there should still have been a little water draining. i would also check the pigtail to see if it is clear
@@Jwr1230 What happens when its all the way at the bottom?
1. 12-15psi on a residential steam boiler is clown shoes! What are you telling people??
2. Why the hell is your boiler filled to the rafters? Is your AUTO fill bleeding through?
3. Maybe the brown mud you are cooking in the boiler could be contributing…. Just a thought.
You are dangerous my friend…