Great video! I appreciate that you showed how to drain the bock, it really wasnt difficult. I noticed if you turn your wheels all the way to the right, it provides plenty of space to get at the block drains and you dont need to jack up the rig.
Thanks for this. Great idea to drain and refill with fresh coolant every 5 years and 50k miles. The 5.7 is developing a reputation of eroding the head gasket between the 5-7 cylinders. One proposed reason is degraded coolant that becomes acidic. Maintenance like this is inexpensive and can be done by anyone willing to turn a wrench. Much cheaper than a warped head or engine block.
Alot of high mileage tundras with little or no maintenance to the coolant. Coolant leaks are the real culprit. Water pumps, valley plate and radiator leaks are common on this engine. Running it low on coolant will lead to warpage and head gasket failure. Alot of people don't check their coolant until their truck starts overheating. Radiator cap is also know to break in half on these trucks. This whole head gasket issue is completely overblown.
Another great video much appreciated, thanks! Your videos give me the confidence to do these things myself. Looking forward to a belt/tensioner video next.
For me this is overkill. I just drain/fill the radiator with distilled water a # of times until clear. Of course I run the engine in-between each fill to cycle everything. I've never drained the block through those drain ports on the engine. Once I see clear water I personally will do this about 3-4 more times just for extra security that every bit of old fluid/residue is out. I then put in the new fluid. To get any air bubbles I just squeeze the hoses and I shake/rock the truck on each side. Some say you should change the thermostat housing each time. DO NOT change if there are no issues. The only issue is if there is corrosion around the gasket area. Again, I have 260k+ miles and original radiator, water pump and thermostat. BTW - request the "old" red fluid at your Toyota dealer. It comes undiluted. I have a 2014 Tundra which now has 260k...no issues EVER with this truck. Don't buy the pre mixed stuff for major $$$ that the book recommends. The "old" red fluid is suitable for our Tundras - confirmed by Toyota when I enquired.
We have a shop out here in Southern AZ. On occasion, we contracted with a radiator business that served several dealerships for over 30 years. The owner/manager always suggested to change the thermostat every 5 years, when we flushed the cooling system. Why? Thermostats can stick and over time, that spring wears out. This typically occurs in the Summers when the engine is under greater stress due to our very hot Summer weather. He recommended to replace the coolant between 50-60,000 miles because the coolant breaks down. We also do not use tap water (due to high mineral content) We always change the thermostats and the radiator cap and never had a vehicle return for overheating problems (unless it was a cracked radiation tank/expansion tank. It's not worth loosing an engine or warping a head or head gasket just to save the cost of a thermostat and cap. Yes, most certainly an overkill to many, but then again, we are aware of where we live and climate.
Emptying the heater core is a good idea BUT... now you run the chance of air locking the system. I would have put the lower hose on and filled the system from there. Put the upper hose back on. And then fill the radiator/rest of the system.
6:47 thanks for the good video. I prefer using the German style stainless steel hose clamps, which are tightened and removed with a 7 mm ratchet. You can put them back on the hose at any orientation and it still won’t leak.
Those clamps you use are not meant for the cooling system. As pipes get warmer, the style clamps from the manufacturer allow for the expansion of hot hoses.
I've watched all your videos. I have never changed out the coolant, transmission fluid, rear differential oil, and tires. I trade the truck in at exactly 60,000 miles.
Also, I do appreciate him showing how to get the most out of the coolant system the amount he’s pulling out from the heater hoses and the block seem negligible. You’re going to get your bulk amount of coolant when you drain the radiator.
@@electropentatonic I just did this today, drained the passenger side brass since the drivers side doesn't really drain much. Was very easy to do and I drained half a gallon from it.
My only concern if you live in the salt belt or rust belt, careful loosening engine bolts. They will ring off very easy and you will have a really bad day. My opinion, let the dealer do this job. Sometimes trying to save money can cost you a ton when something does not go your way.
The engine block drain bolts are made of brass and are threaded into a stainless steel drain valve. The drain bolt is only torqued to ~10 ft-lbs so if it doesn’t break free easily (especially in the rust belt or with an older vehicle) I wouldn’t touch them because, as you said if they were to shear off it’s gonna be a bad day. If you drain and fill your radiator every 30-50K miles it isn’t necessary to try and drain the engine block. It also really helps prevent air bubbles getting stuck in the cooling system, especially the heater core.
Hello. Thank you for the video. I really like all your videos, nice videos. I have one question for you. I have lexus ls400 , almost the same engine with your toyota truck , What if I change my coolant and I put a Mitsubishi orignal coolant ( the blue coolant ) not toyota the red one , is any issue with taht ?
Coolant types are formulated for specific cars because of the materials that they use internally. The gaskets and o-rings on the thermostat, head gasket, and other places react well to the coolant they were designed for. This is actually a bigger topic than you might realize. It’s worth the research you want to study up on it.
@@ToolDemos Thank you for your answer. Thank you very much , OK then , what is the best coolant for my lexus what do you think is the best one? Its lexus ls 400 96 model , the engine model is 1UZFE , please advise me ,,, Right now i am using the OEM coolant from toyota , its fine , but when i saw you putting AISN brand , I thought maybe it will be better than the OEM , Thank you again.
@@hussienabukhalil2012 originally your car came with red Toyota long life coolant. Toyota has switched to pink super long life coolant. If you flush your entire system, you can put the pink coolant in there and you’ll be OK.
have a link to that hose plyer? seems like a worthy investment, ive heard people just leaned on that hose when doing other things , it snapped off and cost them a new radiator
In my case, yes. Once I ran the engine at a higher RPM it finally burped an air bubble out, and so I filled it with a few ounces of coolant. Make sure your engine cools before you reopen the radiator.
Thank you for the information. Much appreciated.. Quick question about the adjustable round heater hose removal pliers. Do you have a part number or location where the pliers can be purchased? I have checked your Amazon store to no avail. Thanks for your help in this matter sir.
@@ToolDemos Thank you sir for your quick response and information. Great content on your videos. I appreciate your attention to details in your videos.
You did a fine job of teaching people how to save themselves $300 on this, but it's amazing how people always complain about everything. I can't afford this tool at Harbour Freight... I just use the hard water that's loaded with chlorine and fluoride from my dirty garden hose instead of those new fangled "chemical coolants"... Jesus, please forgive those fools and malcontents...
So to drain the system I let the truck get to running temp and then opened the block drain until it was only shooting out air. Would that empty it out completely too? I'm not trained by any means so I just did what made sense in my head.
Si I am little confused after watching a few similar videos. Isnt the overfill bottle hose supposed to be plugged? how does the vacuum hold with it not being?
So I bought my 2020 tundra brand new. I’m at 40,000 miles. I change my oil myself, and cab/intake filters myself. Well now the trucks getting older, with more miles. I’m going to change the transfer case and diffs myself at this next oil change. Is there any discrepancies about when coolant changes (no frequent heavy tows) and transmission oil changes?
Coolant is at the first 100,000 then every 50,000 after that only. Transmission (and gear oil) do have a severe duty maintenance schedule. High heat, heavy loads, and dirt roads can all be factors in oil/lube frequency.
@@ToolDemos that is an extremely fair Point. I say the same about brakes and people who use automatic gear selects to slow them selfs down (not in tow, or any justifiable reasons). Thank you for your time, and replying to my comment.
I’m not sure if that counts as ‘enough’ or not. You do have the option of replacing the radiator coolant twice. Maybe drain and fill the radiator once and then drive the car for a few minutes, let it cool off, and then drain and fill it again.
Well yeah you better do that cause the old coolant is wrecking these new tundra metal head gaskets. 100k is way too long for 2010 and newer. The 2-UZ was the last great Toyota V8 motor 2009 and earlier
That’s a Topscan Pro, it pairs with your phone or tablet. Amazon: amzn.to/3RBubh1 My review: ua-cam.com/video/OHoekIfKkHM/v-deo.htmlsi=SnFX4fxTXUvoTYSu
@@fathernson8 if I did, it was not intentional. When I was running the truck to bleed the air out of the system, I turned the heat on high to monitor the vent temperature.
So lets say u drain the radiator and pull the drain plugs from block, but dont drain heater core. When u hook up vacuum does it pull the coolant from heater core ? or can you just go about refilling?
Yes, but you need to have a way to purge the air from the system. This is especially important if you drained the heater core. Lisle has a no spill radiator funnel that’ll help you do that without the vacuum system.
It's too much for me I'm just going to have Toyota do it. It's like $60 for the coolant and then another 50 just to have them do it. In my old cars you just drain the coolant and put new coolant in beard it's not worth the time to me.
I don't know what it is about the residential construction style of our subdivisions, but they scream "FLORIDA"... Thanks for your video. Have a 2011 Sequoia that needs this done. Your video gave me the confidence to do it on my own. @@ToolDemos
Aisin is the OEM for many Toyota components including coolant. They make high quality products that I am always happy to use. On the coolant container it says OEM engineered formula. It is made specifically for Toyota/Lexus. I did get a better deal on this coolant compared to the Toyota dealer, which is a good thing.
I used to audit suppliers for Toyota HQ. Went to the supplier in Chicago named Intac who made coolant for all OEMs per Mfg standard. They told me that the Toyota/Lexus formula was the best that they made. There is a difference.
Great video! I appreciate that you showed how to drain the bock, it really wasnt difficult. I noticed if you turn your wheels all the way to the right, it provides plenty of space to get at the block drains and you dont need to jack up the rig.
Great tip!
Thanks for this. Great idea to drain and refill with fresh coolant every 5 years and 50k miles. The 5.7 is developing a reputation of eroding the head gasket between the 5-7 cylinders. One proposed reason is degraded coolant that becomes acidic. Maintenance like this is inexpensive and can be done by anyone willing to turn a wrench. Much cheaper than a warped head or engine block.
Exactly right. Less than a hundred bucks is very cheap insurance.
Alot of high mileage tundras with little or no maintenance to the coolant. Coolant leaks are the real culprit. Water pumps, valley plate and radiator leaks are common on this engine. Running it low on coolant will lead to warpage and head gasket failure. Alot of people don't check their coolant until their truck starts overheating. Radiator cap is also know to break in half on these trucks. This whole head gasket issue is completely overblown.
Someone watches the car care nut!
Car wizard shows it happening more, and more.@@jesserodriguez5308
Tip. Leave your rad cap on and it will pull the fluid out of your over flow as well.
Nice! Good tip.
It does work that way
Man, you are always right on time for the projects I need to do! Thank you so much!!
That’s pretty cool. Glad it’s helpful.
@@ToolDemos the 5.7 tundra has to be the best truck ever produced! Love it
Perfect timing, I really needed this for my 2.5 gen thanks for your efforts on this one!
Right on!
Another great video much appreciated, thanks! Your videos give me the confidence to do these things myself.
Looking forward to a belt/tensioner video next.
I’m really happy to hear that. The belt tensioner video is coming soon.
For me this is overkill. I just drain/fill the radiator with distilled water a # of times until clear. Of course I run the engine in-between each fill to cycle everything. I've never drained the block through those drain ports on the engine. Once I see clear water I personally will do this about 3-4 more times just for extra security that every bit of old fluid/residue is out. I then put in the new fluid. To get any air bubbles I just squeeze the hoses and I shake/rock the truck on each side. Some say you should change the thermostat housing each time. DO NOT change if there are no issues. The only issue is if there is corrosion around the gasket area. Again, I have 260k+ miles and original radiator, water pump and thermostat.
BTW - request the "old" red fluid at your Toyota dealer. It comes undiluted. I have a 2014 Tundra which now has 260k...no issues EVER with this truck. Don't buy the pre mixed stuff for major $$$ that the book recommends. The "old" red fluid is suitable for our Tundras - confirmed by Toyota when I enquired.
You’re doing a great job with your Tundra. I hope you keep ‘er going another 260k.
We have a shop out here in Southern AZ. On occasion, we contracted with a radiator business that served several dealerships for over 30 years. The owner/manager always suggested to change the thermostat every 5 years, when we flushed the cooling system. Why? Thermostats can stick and over time, that spring wears out. This typically occurs in the Summers when the engine is under greater stress due to our very hot Summer weather. He recommended to replace the coolant between 50-60,000 miles because the coolant breaks down. We also do not use tap water (due to high mineral content) We always change the thermostats and the radiator cap and never had a vehicle return for overheating problems (unless it was a cracked radiation tank/expansion tank. It's not worth loosing an engine or warping a head or head gasket just to save the cost of a thermostat and cap. Yes, most certainly an overkill to many, but then again, we are aware of where we live and climate.
Awesome video Steve thanks for sharing.
Thanks Tony!
Emptying the heater core is a good idea BUT... now you run the chance of air locking the system. I would have put the lower hose on and filled the system from there. Put the upper hose back on. And then fill the radiator/rest of the system.
Not a bad idea.
6:47 thanks for the good video. I prefer using the German style stainless steel hose clamps, which are tightened and removed with a 7 mm ratchet. You can put them back on the hose at any orientation and it still won’t leak.
Those clamps you use are not meant for the cooling system. As pipes get warmer, the style clamps from the manufacturer allow for the expansion of hot hoses.
Great content! Keep it up my friend!
Thanks G Money!
I've watched all your videos. I have never changed out the coolant, transmission fluid, rear differential oil, and tires. I trade the truck in at exactly 60,000 miles.
Yeah, if you don’t keep it long, maintenance is just a waste of time/money.
Omg I might as well get my local repair shop to do it for $165.
oddly enough my 2016 is creeping up on 100K good stuff to know!
Im just going to drain and fill the radiator every couple of years. That should keep it fresh enough.
Same..
Exactly keep it simple and good enough
Also, I do appreciate him showing how to get the most out of the coolant system the amount he’s pulling out from the heater hoses and the block seem negligible. You’re going to get your bulk amount of coolant when you drain the radiator.
Yeah, don't mess with the brass plugs. It'll turn a 15 minute fluid change into a nightmare
@@electropentatonic I just did this today, drained the passenger side brass since the drivers side doesn't really drain much. Was very easy to do and I drained half a gallon from it.
Great video, thank you
glad is subscribed good content!
Thanks! Glad you’re here.
Great video.
Glad you enjoyed it
Trying to find that “Thermo Sensor” vent thermometer. Do you have a brand and model? Great video, and will be doing mine soon.
It’s made by Power Probe, handy little tool: amzn.to/3SrnwY6
My only concern if you live in the salt belt or rust belt, careful loosening engine bolts. They will ring off very easy and you will have a really bad day. My opinion, let the dealer do this job. Sometimes trying to save money can cost you a ton when something does not go your way.
The engine block drain bolts are made of brass and are threaded into a stainless steel drain valve. The drain bolt is only torqued to ~10 ft-lbs so if it doesn’t break free easily (especially in the rust belt or with an older vehicle) I wouldn’t touch them because, as you said if they were to shear off it’s gonna be a bad day. If you drain and fill your radiator every 30-50K miles it isn’t necessary to try and drain the engine block. It also really helps prevent air bubbles getting stuck in the cooling system, especially the heater core.
Hello. Thank you for the video. I really like all your videos, nice videos. I have one question for you.
I have lexus ls400 , almost the same engine with your toyota truck , What if I change my coolant and I put a Mitsubishi orignal coolant ( the blue coolant ) not toyota the red one , is any issue with taht ?
Coolant types are formulated for specific cars because of the materials that they use internally. The gaskets and o-rings on the thermostat, head gasket, and other places react well to the coolant they were designed for.
This is actually a bigger topic than you might realize. It’s worth the research you want to study up on it.
@@ToolDemos Thank you for your answer. Thank you very much , OK then , what is the best coolant for my lexus what do you think is the best one? Its lexus ls 400 96 model , the engine model is 1UZFE , please advise me ,,, Right now i am using the OEM coolant from toyota , its fine , but when i saw you putting AISN brand , I thought maybe it will be better than the OEM , Thank you again.
@@hussienabukhalil2012 originally your car came with red Toyota long life coolant. Toyota has switched to pink super long life coolant. If you flush your entire system, you can put the pink coolant in there and you’ll be OK.
@@hussienabukhalil2012 Aisin makes the OEM coolant for Toyota it's the same thing. Specifically formulated for Toyota/Lexus
Red antifreeze for Aluminium engines and blue for Cast Iron!
have a link to that hose plyer? seems like a worthy investment, ive heard people just leaned on that hose when doing other things , it snapped off and cost them a new radiator
Ouch! These: amzn.to/3ZGc2Ca are definitely worth having.
did u have to add any coolant after thermostat opened? assuming the tool takes care of that
In my case, yes. Once I ran the engine at a higher RPM it finally burped an air bubble out, and so I filled it with a few ounces of coolant. Make sure your engine cools before you reopen the radiator.
Struggling to find that 2nd engine drain plug. Gotta change water pump at work and have picture where it’s supposed to be but can’t find it
I know, it’s tough to see. Change the angle where you’re looking. When you find it, you won’t un-find it. (If that makes sense)
Thanks!! Do you have a link to the hose clamp pliers you took off the heater lines with?
Happy wrenching!
Thank you for the information. Much appreciated.. Quick question about the adjustable round heater hose removal pliers. Do you have a part number or location where the pliers can be purchased? I have checked your Amazon store to no avail. Thanks for your help in this matter sir.
Those are Blue Point YA9660. Snap On no longer makes/sells them. eBay is the best place to try.
@@ToolDemos Thank you sir for your quick response and information. Great content on your videos. I appreciate your attention to details in your videos.
@@ILwoodsman I’m glad to hear that, thanks. Cheers!
You did a fine job of teaching people how to save themselves $300 on this, but it's amazing how people always complain about everything.
I can't afford this tool at Harbour Freight... I just use the hard water that's loaded with chlorine and fluoride from my dirty garden hose instead of those new fangled "chemical coolants"...
Jesus, please forgive those fools and malcontents...
Thanks. I do shake my head sometimes.
@@ToolDemos You're being too nice, but I understand why. 😊👍
Heard you could drain the block from the oil cooler? Supposedly its the lowest point to drain on the truck and gets it all out.
I haven’t tried that, it could work.
@@ToolDemos ill let you know. I have to do a service on mine soon and will be doing this.
@@Jaxboy86 you did not come back
@@nursegilbey it doesn't drain it all out. It was hear say. I would say though that I do recommend doing it to get that little bit out.
What pliers are those? They will definitely help with water heater hoses!
They are Blue Point heater hose pliers. (They were discontinued)
How much coolant did it take? How many jugs?
Just over 3 gallons.
Are the engine drains 10 mm? Sorry if it was said and I missed it. Thanks
It is a 10mm, might not have mentioned that.
How long was the extension you used to access the drain on the engine block?
That was a 24” locking extension.
So to drain the system I let the truck get to running temp and then opened the block drain until it was only shooting out air. Would that empty it out completely too? I'm not trained by any means so I just did what made sense in my head.
NO! Never open a cooling system when hot. Let it cool to room temperature first.
If do not remove rad cap, the overflow bottle will empty during drain plug open.
Si I am little confused after watching a few similar videos. Isnt the overfill bottle hose supposed to be plugged? how does the vacuum hold with it not being?
If you look closely, the vacuum filler bypasses the overflow outlet. So it only vacuums the system internally, leaving the hose at ambient pressure.
@@ToolDemos great thanks for reply
So I bought my 2020 tundra brand new. I’m at 40,000 miles. I change my oil myself, and cab/intake filters myself. Well now the trucks getting older, with more miles. I’m going to change the transfer case and diffs myself at this next oil change. Is there any discrepancies about when coolant changes (no frequent heavy tows) and transmission oil changes?
Coolant is at the first 100,000 then every 50,000 after that only. Transmission (and gear oil) do have a severe duty maintenance schedule. High heat, heavy loads, and dirt roads can all be factors in oil/lube frequency.
@@ToolDemos I live in the high Rocky Mountains, so steep roads. But I do not tow. Rarely on dirt roads. What would you recommend for transmission?
@@coltrockwell5467 I like 30k intervals personally. Transmissions are expensive.
@@ToolDemos that is an extremely fair
Point. I say the same about brakes and people who use automatic gear selects to slow them selfs down (not in tow, or any justifiable reasons).
Thank you for your time, and replying to my comment.
@@ToolDemos i would go 50k on the 1st. The head gaskets on these engines get corroded by the coolant as it becomes acidic with use. Cheap insurance.
What if i only drain and fill the radiator? Is that enough?
I’m not sure if that counts as ‘enough’ or not. You do have the option of replacing the radiator coolant twice.
Maybe drain and fill the radiator once and then drive the car for a few minutes, let it cool off, and then drain and fill it again.
Well yeah you better do that cause the old coolant is wrecking these new tundra metal head gaskets. 100k is way too long for 2010 and newer.
The 2-UZ was the last great Toyota V8 motor 2009 and earlier
Yup, after the first change, Toyota says change every 50k
@ No Toyota actually states 100k internals. That’s the problem is the cooling breaking down and as a result breaking down the gasket. 50 k is ideal
Im talking UR series V8
@@MycSailor Yup, 100k is right. After that though, it’s every 50k.
I have a 2017 tundra 3rd generation 5.7. Do you know if the block drain valves are the same as your 2nd generation?
@@PaulCyclist yes. Actually mine is a 2018, so should be identical.
What scanner are you using
That’s a Topscan Pro, it pairs with your phone or tablet. Amazon: amzn.to/3RBubh1
My review: ua-cam.com/video/OHoekIfKkHM/v-deo.htmlsi=SnFX4fxTXUvoTYSu
Do i need to use that vacuum filler or can it be done by running and keep topping up rad
A spill-free funnel is a more affordable option. Here’s the one I use: amzn.to/47FV0rO
It’s great at getting the air out of your system .
Did you say toyota says to change at the 1st 100k?
Yes
Did you turn off the A/C and heat when first starting your engine?
@@fathernson8 if I did, it was not intentional. When I was running the truck to bleed the air out of the system, I turned the heat on high to monitor the vent temperature.
What coolant, that’s the big question, everyone has an opinion
Toyota or Aisin pink worked for me.
@@ToolDemos agree with that take, aisin is Napa right??
@@symple001 honestly, I don’t know who makes Napa’s coolant.
@@symple001Aisin is Toyota.
So lets say u drain the radiator and pull the drain plugs from block, but dont drain heater core. When u hook up vacuum does it pull the coolant from heater core ? or can you just go about refilling?
It won’t pull any coolant unless the radiator is almost full. Then it kinda sprays coolant and air mixed.
@@ToolDemos thanks
I was hoping this would be easier....
Understandable
Can I just refill without having the use the pressurized tool?
Yes, but you need to have a way to purge the air from the system. This is especially important if you drained the heater core. Lisle has a no spill radiator funnel that’ll help you do that without the vacuum system.
It's too much for me I'm just going to have Toyota do it. It's like $60 for the coolant and then another 50 just to have them do it. In my old cars you just drain the coolant and put new coolant in beard it's not worth the time to me.
This looks like Tampa area... are you in FL?
Yup, Jax
I don't know what it is about the residential construction style of our subdivisions, but they scream "FLORIDA"... Thanks for your video. Have a 2011 Sequoia that needs this done. Your video gave me the confidence to do it on my own. @@ToolDemos
What tool
How you put air in the hose
amzn.to/3XwE0RL
That hose clamp is wrong and your bird feeder is empty!!
I guess I should use a worm clamp and some zip-ties. Lol
@@ToolDemos lmao
Good video. You spend a lot of money on tools but you didn’t use Toyota coolant.
Aisin is the OEM for many Toyota components including coolant. They make high quality products that I am always happy to use. On the coolant container it says OEM engineered formula. It is made specifically for Toyota/Lexus. I did get a better deal on this coolant compared to the Toyota dealer, which is a good thing.
Aisin is Toyota coolant. They literally make it and Toyota just slaps their name on it. Also aisin makes Toyotas water pumps. I
I used to audit suppliers for Toyota HQ. Went to the supplier in Chicago named Intac who made coolant for all OEMs per Mfg standard. They told me that the Toyota/Lexus formula was the best that they made. There is a difference.
Ok video. Lost points for me because you are using a bunch of tools a typical person will not have.
That’s fair.
Paint markers are not expensive.
OMG what a silly comment 😂😂😂😂