Gday Tom, I would love to have a surface grinder and hopefully one day I just might, the finish you got on the mag chuck is beautiful, I’m looking forward to seeing more projects with awesome faultless finish’s, thank you for sharing mate, Matty
I suggest you take a look at Solid Rock Machine Shop. They have ground in a few chucks recently - including Keith Rucker's - with some great information on the hows and whys.
That is quite a tasty result from the precision parts launcher (love that name) :) No idea how I missed this video, I was just browsing back through my subscriptions and found it. Building the arbors for the other wheels would make for very interesting content.
Cheers! It's a problem, so much youtube and not enough time! Yeah it's certainly one of the next projects once I work through a few other things that have been in the wings
Even a blind man could see you missed your marks by a country mile drilling those holes. 🤦♂️ 😁 Great progress and result. Great video as well. Can’t wait for the next, longer one. 👌
Drilling is a legit technique required on arbors that don't have weights (obviously not as great as balance weights) Thanks for watching, exciting stuff ahead I'm sure :)
If your mag chuck is longer than your travel you should take it to your milling machine and mill off a portion that can't be used on your grinder anyways. I've done it and it made things much easier. And you will have a truer surface than doing it in sections.
I more or less achieved this. Might not have been clear. I took a few passes to grind a decent step down at one end. I then trued up the remainder in one set up You are right that I should have just milled it. I was just excited to use the grinder 😂
Your videos are very helpful and interesting. What do you use on your chuck after grinding to keep it from rusting or corroding. Do you have a product to recommend, one that is available in the states? Thank you for the video and the information. I am new at grinding and your help is very appreciated.
Unfortunately I don't properly have the answer myself! I've been using my normal longer term tool storage methods; lanolin oil coating and a cloth propped over the surfaces (not touching) this prevents a lot of condensation build up and corrosion. of course make sure you wipe off the oil properly before use (fire hazard) I know in the US you get more extreme temperature swings so you may need to do more. If you (or anyone else) find a better solution, let us know!
Good wheel choice, we use a lot of Norton products at work and it works great. We grind mostly D2/S7. When you're grinding just keep in mind which direction you're traveling, the lead edge will wear fastest and should always cut first. It looks like you've already got the concept, starting from the back each time and traversing forward. Have fun with your new toy.
now after you ground the chuck how did you check it for flatness. where i work we grind 5 rounds of steel, one in each corner and one in the center of the magnet. then, check them all on a surface plate to see how much variation is in the chuck and if you did a good job grinding it.
The 5 block test is on my list. Not going to lie I've dived into some small projects already, but the parts are small enough that I'm not too concerned. I will definitely do the test as I have bigger projects planned
Looking good, that fine pole magnet is a real gem, there very expensive. 60 grit is a good fine wheel for general use, you can change the cutting quality by either rapid dressing (traverse the diamond quickly) or slow dressing for a finer finish. Great balancing tool. Thanks for sharing.
I also got a course pole with the machine, but I figure I'm mainly working with small parts, so that is the way to go The course pole will probably become a sine table on the grinder Thanks for watching
@@TomMakeHere - Apologies if you already know this, but fine pole isn't 'better' like some people think. Fine pole chucks are for thinner workpieces, and generally have a lot less holding power. To get a mental image of why, here's a link with some explanation of flux paths and what happens with thin workpieces. www.eclipsemagnetics.com/na/workholding-key-considerations/ A casual machinist can make do with either, *provided* they understand what's going on and compensate for the compromises.
Just the answer I was looking for balancing the wheel. Thank you very much, I am also restoring and old chinese grinder , but I had not idea I could take that part to balance the wheel also
TommyGun Machining I have a cnc , but since I live in china , I might get it cheaply. But since due to the virus everything is closed, I might be a nice project to do..
TommyGun Machining thanks, I could make the thread on the cnc. What is the thread type in your Machine.. I am still Working on the machine is doing well, I made some Videos about it.. also in UA-cam. I took the spindle out and I change the angular bearings. Much better now.
Yes I can't measure any variation, but I only have a 0.01 mm indicator at the moment. I really need to perform a 5 block test for accurate measuring results
@@TomMakeHere i am looking forward to seeing the results of your 5 block test , what material were you grinding (1020) steel ? what is the rest of the code on the 60 grit wheel you were using ? as an obviation you coolant looked a bit lean, to much water not enough soluble oil or it wasn't properly mixed
@@mechelectro2711 Just scraps of mild steel. There is no code on the wheel, short of shipping something from America I can't find a labelled wheel in Australia. The joys of a limited manufacturing industry. You are correct, the coolant is quite lean, I assumed that the coolant tank was just a front partition, but it is all connected and I didn't have enough coolant to get the ratio right. I'm considering draining it as I don't anticipate much wet grinding in the future and don't want it getting festy again!
@@mechelectro2711 I'll give them a go. Believe me I've been trying a lot of places, everywhere I try they provide the grit and if you are lucky they might tell you wheel hardness is 'soft'
Hay Tom iv got a awesome universal radius grinding attachment i made for my cutter grinder ,you can easily fit one to your grinder. I can send you some pics if your interested ?
fantastic! I am amazed at the difference balancing the wheel made. The finish you achieved is great. Really looking forward to see you use the grinder on projects now.. Thanks for sharing. oh,also, nothing wrong with being frugal, allows one to purchase additional goodies. :)
Good job. Don't let these safty freaks that have nothing better to do than voluntarily watch a video and tell people how they should run there lives. You do what you need to do and so should the trolls. Keep up the good work.
Isn’t surface grinder fun? 🤠
Sure is. Love that finish :)
Hope the new to you toy exceeds your expectations.
Cheers
Peter
It already has! I was expecting a lot of time and practice to work it out
Thanks for watching
Super cool, beautiful parts out of that grinder.
Cheers! It's worth it for the cosmetic purposes alone :)
Go Tom go! Nice to see your progress. Thanks for making and sharing these videos.
Cheers! Thanks for watching
Gday Tom, I would love to have a surface grinder and hopefully one day I just might, the finish you got on the mag chuck is beautiful, I’m looking forward to seeing more projects with awesome faultless finish’s, thank you for sharing mate, Matty
I'm so happy I finally got it worked out. I'm looking forward to see what I can make too!
Very good video..thanks for your time
Thanks for watching
I suggest you take a look at Solid Rock Machine Shop. They have ground in a few chucks recently - including Keith Rucker's - with some great information on the hows and whys.
Good on ya man . Looks awesome!
I'm certainly happy with the results :)
That is quite a tasty result from the precision parts launcher (love that name) :)
No idea how I missed this video, I was just browsing back through my subscriptions and found it.
Building the arbors for the other wheels would make for very interesting content.
Cheers!
It's a problem, so much youtube and not enough time!
Yeah it's certainly one of the next projects once I work through a few other things that have been in the wings
@@TomMakeHere Alright I'll keep my eyes peeled. Cheers Tom - Craig
Now you enter the “I must grind everything phase”!
and check! Already there :)
And just think, you can get everything an order of magnitude flatter and shinier with lapping plates.
@@canberradogfarts Shh! One step at a time :) This is a pretty big step as it is!
Ooh, shiny!
So pretty!
Even a blind man could see you missed your marks by a country mile drilling those holes. 🤦♂️
😁 Great progress and result. Great video as well. Can’t wait for the next, longer one. 👌
Drilling is a legit technique required on arbors that don't have weights (obviously not as great as balance weights)
Thanks for watching, exciting stuff ahead I'm sure :)
If your mag chuck is longer than your travel you should take it to your milling machine and mill off a portion that can't be used on your grinder anyways. I've done it and it made things much easier. And you will have a truer surface than doing it in sections.
I more or less achieved this. Might not have been clear. I took a few passes to grind a decent step down at one end. I then trued up the remainder in one set up
You are right that I should have just milled it. I was just excited to use the grinder 😂
Your videos are very helpful and interesting. What do you use on your chuck after grinding to keep it from rusting or corroding. Do you have a product to recommend, one that is available in the states? Thank you for the video and the information. I am new at grinding and your help is very appreciated.
Unfortunately I don't properly have the answer myself!
I've been using my normal longer term tool storage methods; lanolin oil coating and a cloth propped over the surfaces (not touching) this prevents a lot of condensation build up and corrosion. of course make sure you wipe off the oil properly before use (fire hazard)
I know in the US you get more extreme temperature swings so you may need to do more. If you (or anyone else) find a better solution, let us know!
Good wheel choice, we use a lot of Norton products at work and it works great. We grind mostly D2/S7. When you're grinding just keep in mind which direction you're traveling, the lead edge will wear fastest and should always cut first. It looks like you've already got the concept, starting from the back each time and traversing forward. Have fun with your new toy.
Cheers, it seems to be working for me. Next will be lots of wheel adapters. I have a feeling it will get tedious
now after you ground the chuck how did you check it for flatness. where i work we grind 5 rounds of steel, one in each corner and one in the center of the magnet. then, check them all on a surface plate to see how much variation is in the chuck and if you did a good job grinding it.
The 5 block test is on my list. Not going to lie I've dived into some small projects already, but the parts are small enough that I'm not too concerned. I will definitely do the test as I have bigger projects planned
Mate where’d u get the surface grinder. N how much ? I’m keen for one but not many around. ?
I got it second hand out of New South Wales and had it shipped to me
Nice and shiny. That's gonna be lots of fun to play with.
Cheers! I'm enjoying finally getting good results
There's an app for that! 😜 You must be a happy lad to have a machine like that to play with 👍
Very happy now that I've got it all set up and working
Looking good, that fine pole magnet is a real gem, there very expensive. 60 grit is a good fine wheel for general use, you can change the cutting quality by either rapid dressing (traverse the diamond quickly) or slow dressing for a finer finish.
Great balancing tool.
Thanks for sharing.
I also got a course pole with the machine, but I figure I'm mainly working with small parts, so that is the way to go
The course pole will probably become a sine table on the grinder
Thanks for watching
@@TomMakeHere - Apologies if you already know this, but fine pole isn't 'better' like some people think. Fine pole chucks are for thinner workpieces, and generally have a lot less holding power. To get a mental image of why, here's a link with some explanation of flux paths and what happens with thin workpieces. www.eclipsemagnetics.com/na/workholding-key-considerations/
A casual machinist can make do with either, *provided* they understand what's going on and compensate for the compromises.
Nice work Tom, looking forward to some shiny parts!
Cheers! I am too!
Just the answer I was looking for balancing the wheel. Thank you very much, I am also restoring and old chinese grinder , but I had not idea I could take that part to balance the wheel also
Awesome! Glad I helped someone out
The wheel extractor is simple to make if you have a lathe or the correct thread
TommyGun Machining I have a cnc , but since I live in china , I might get it cheaply. But since due to the virus everything is closed, I might be a nice project to do..
TommyGun Machining thanks, I could make the thread on the cnc. What is the thread type in your
Machine.. I am still
Working on the machine is doing well, I made some
Videos about it.. also in UA-cam. I took the spindle out and I change the angular bearings. Much better now.
Did you map the chuck with the dti to see if its flat ?
Yes I can't measure any variation, but I only have a 0.01 mm indicator at the moment. I really need to perform a 5 block test for accurate measuring results
@@TomMakeHere i am looking forward to seeing the results of your 5 block test , what material were you grinding (1020) steel ? what is the rest of the code on the 60 grit wheel you were using ? as an obviation you coolant looked a bit lean, to much water not enough soluble oil or it wasn't properly mixed
@@mechelectro2711 Just scraps of mild steel. There is no code on the wheel, short of shipping something from America I can't find a labelled wheel in Australia. The joys of a limited manufacturing industry.
You are correct, the coolant is quite lean, I assumed that the coolant tank was just a front partition, but it is all connected and I didn't have enough coolant to get the ratio right. I'm considering draining it as I don't anticipate much wet grinding in the future and don't want it getting festy again!
@@TomMakeHere For one try Weber abrasives in Adelaide, there must be a few places in Melbourne, Australia is not that much of a backwater
@@mechelectro2711 I'll give them a go. Believe me I've been trying a lot of places, everywhere I try they provide the grit and if you are lucky they might tell you wheel hardness is 'soft'
Hay Tom iv got a awesome universal radius grinding attachment i made for my cutter grinder ,you can easily fit one to your grinder. I can send you some pics if your interested ?
Sounds like a good future project! tommygmachining@gmail.com :)
Now make a set of surface ground flat stones!
It's on the list! ha ha
@@TomMakeHere if I send you stones, hows about you grind me a set, for show and practice?
fantastic! I am amazed at the difference balancing the wheel made. The finish you achieved is great. Really looking forward to see you use the grinder on projects now.. Thanks for sharing. oh,also, nothing wrong with being frugal, allows one to purchase additional goodies. :)
Yeah it really made a difference! Also yes I'd rather spend my money on tools that I can keep using!
Thanks Tom. Cheap skate? I think of myself as meeting my needs with the resources I have. Practical, I'd say. Keep up the good work.
A good way of looking at it!
Good job. Don't let these safty freaks that have nothing better to do than voluntarily watch a video and tell people how they should run there lives. You do what you need to do and so should the trolls. Keep up the good work.
True!
This video was more to address the incorrect balancing, but thought I would throw a bit more in there while I was at it
Thanks for watching