I love watching Adam be Adam... but there's a little Jamie in my head that goes (cue Grant Imahara finger mustache) "well... Adam if you had used it right the first time you wouldn't have had to spend so much time cleaning your tools..."
Up next on Savage Builds - A custom fabricated, machined and 3-D printed, lapping plate holder. That way the next time he has to use it the thing won't dance all over his workbench. Stay tuned.
These videos are so interesting to me at almost 50yo. My first job at 16 was working for a friend of my parents’ machine shop for the summer. I probably broke more things monetarily than I produced, but learning mills and lathes has always informed me on being a maker with a modest scene shop. I also had my first 2 shop injuries there, and learned about safety first-hand. I wish that I had access now to that kind of equipment to address some of those younger mistakes. These videos are such a wealth of knowledge.
Great video Adam! Some not necessary but maybe helpful information. When you use the grinder, take off your carriage to get out the dust. Helps elongsting your lathes life and accuracy. And when you check your runout to use the er collects, put the indicator on the mating surface inside, so you read the true position your collets will have. As a machinist I love your machinists videos. It's a joy to watch a childhood hero to something I do at work! Greetings from Germany :)
The man needs to learn about rigidity on ALL his work surfaces. He's preached about it's importance in a previous video, but obviously doesn't practice what he preaches.
@@whitey129 The big vice on the wobbly small bench is a constant source of frustration for me. He even did a video years ago about trying to make that bench more stable, but the addition of the diagonal tension straps actually achieved little. Still, Adam is a legend. I love him. He's an absolute delight.
I absolutely love switchable magnets, there's something that just itches that spot in my brain about a magnet you can turn on and off, I don't currently own one but I think I need to after realising this
Old guy here who was once a bicycle mechanic back in the '70s. I couldn't help but notice you used 3-in-One oil on your chuck. Back 40-50 years ago, we bike mechanics loathed 3-in-One oil. As a product readily available to people at their local drug and grocery stores, everyone use it to oil their bicycle chains and when they'd bring their bikes into the shop for tuneups and repairs the stink of rancid 3-in-One oil was really gross, plus its lubrication properties seemed to change over time, not due to road grime, but it would just go bad and turn gooey rather than being oily. We always figured it was primarily a vegetable based oil which is why it turned rancid and would stink. Anyway, to this day, I would never use 3-in-One oil on anything. (Maybe the formula has changed, and I would hope so, but anyway, that was my experience with it.)
just remember every chuck needs to be re-centered every time you remove and reinstall the chuck this is because of several factors 1. you will almost never put the chuck adapter pins in the same hole -unless you mark the chuck and the adapter plate 2. you will never get the adapter pins to the same tightness as you have now - you would need to use a torque wrench each time a true set chuck allows you to make these adjustments easier the above is really only necessary for sub 0.0001 yes you can do it on this lathe
The chuck has lead in the grooves, well the good ones do, never grind the face unless you remove enough lead so the level is below the steel surface by about 0.020". Reason for this is the lead doesn't grind but smears and will load the wheel, which will need more dressing, and the face will not be as flat as you want. Just make up a tool that is slightly narrower than the grooves in a hook shape. FFS clamp the lapping plate down.
@@llearch Jesus, that skyhooky thing is a piece of crap, and those are lightweight chucks! I don't bother with the overhead till I get to the 15" usually. well if im feeling really lazy and I have it in place, ill use it on the 10"... and im 145 dripping wet...
i never noticed you have the fostoria style machinist lamp. i love those, ive got like maybe 16 of em but not just fostoria, i got the dazor, andsome unknown brands and a couple british ones. i grab em whenever i can. when i get back from rehab im going to fully restore them all, powder coat them etc. however i will keep my favorites apart and start reproducing them due to the fact there is no superior ball joint articulating task lamp in my opinion. i might modernize the design a bit. the lamp head will be the hardest part.
ADAM!!! You could have taken that beast to a proper machine shop with a surface grinder and had it trued up to 0.0001 for a nominal cost. Practice self care!
Maybe just put a couple pins on the bottom of the lapping plate that index into the dog holes on the workbench? You could do something fancier, but why? You need it held in place, but the exact location on the workbench doesn't have a particular tolerance.
Just got done making coffee and meditating and come back to my desk to a Tested video oh boy lemme say what a treat. Much love to everyone watching and the Tested Crew!!!!!
Hey Adam, check this out. It's constructive, not critical. I would have taken that chuck apart, degreased it, then did an extreme deburr on it, maybe even hit it on that lapping plate. Same with the 3 gears. The faces where the chuck comes together too. Then when reassembled, seat the part back into the jaws (your ER32 or ER16 collet holder) with a soft mallet or piece of aluminum, and I've found when you do that, they'll repeat better. Just a little hint, not a gripe at all.
Cut some grooves into your butcher block chuck table to fit over the lathe's ways. That way, when you're mounting your chuck, the chuck table will stay put. ❤👍
If you did it in the video, I missed it, but don't you need to maintain the orientation of the spindle index with the direction that you faced the chuck? Meaning if you have four possible orientations, turning the spindle 90 degrees from the orientation that you did your facing could mean facing it again with the new orientation could yield a different result. Do you have a "North" mark on your spindle so when you machine the mag chuck, you can maintain the same orientation every time you swap it on and off?
i have similar chemical resistant gloves. we used them at work for cleaning, according to policy, they are single use gloves. i have them all over my shop, kitchen, garden. each pair of gloves lives in a kit for its given purpose. most have lasted a decade, the only ones that i have damaged were used digging in the garden
Holymoly.. that's some precision. Side note and not that it's suitable here but I was always impressed with hand metal scraping that they did in the "old days" I use a CNC router at work with a spoil board. Resurfacing it is always very satisfying.
very much done today too, lapping and grinding machined surfaces are not good for any metal on metal slide ways (oil). linear rails are great but cant resist or bare the same level of forces a classic dovetail type slideway. and require to be serviced and replaced fairly frequently. i rebuild industrial machinery and i use our biax scrapper like once every couple months on jobs that need it.
still is the best way to get a metal surface sliding on a single 2D plane. Humans are amazing at creating geometric accuraccy, its just precision we have to make machines and stops to get to. (Or at least was before 2020. Ive been a little out of the game) Some people can feel out of round, and out of flat movements that are only nanometers out! it really is incredible how sensitive our nerves are.
Not really, was probably looking for "true". You don't really say concentric even though it could be used but it's usually used relative to another circle or axis rather than absolute terms with the lathe
For those who might not be aware, "trueness" is how close a measurement is to the real or desired value. Making it true means (in this case) getting the runout to zero (the desired value). So while you could say he got it within 5 microns of being true that's a bit like saying he got it within 5 microns of zero. It's a bit redundant since that's what the 5 micron measurement means in the first place - 5 microns from zero. What he's really trying to say is he got it within 5 microns of being perfectly concentric - sharing the same center - which was the actual goal.
you gotta get where your close to your cut, then make a dam like a dentist, do your cuts. clean then your good. your wipers good? and apron sealed properly? i geuss you probobly dont have a leadscrew cover, so i geuss that would need to be cleaned. im just too lazy to do that every time
adam i put a few small magnets in my parts washer to help catch shavings and other collectables. It has worked great to also keep the fluid collectable free. You should try it. 😁
3-in-One oil for your chuck? The topic of scroll chuck lubrication came up recently on some forum. Based on that, I use a thin application of Molykote G-N paste. Rhöm has a white paper at their website that's worth a look,
I’d highly recommend getting in touch with Robin renzetti or Spencer Webb. You were alright and blew it with the polish and scotch bright. Lapping is an art, and when done wrong is like a child finger painting.
gotta get those proper adjustable sunnen hones boiiii! they got sets of ranges obviously. at work 1 set 0.5in to 2in, another is 2 to 5 then the last one is 3 to 18in. they all have stones that are built in diameter ranges and are awesome for just a couple thou
Adam, I feel your pain over the mag chuck. I do hope you made note of how much you removed from the surface. Most of them have an allowed total amount you can remove without harming the strength of the chuck.
The more you use your lapping plate the less proper flat it will be. You need two lapping plates, so that every few operations, you lap them between one another and obtain flatness again.
Well, if we are getting this fancy, you technically need 3. the only geometry that can be shared by 3 surfaces is a plane. Two plates can end up with one being convex and the other having a matching concave surface.
I wish you had mounted a tenths indicator onto the carriage and swept it across the magnetic chuck while still installed on the lathe. Using a precision straight edge, you could set it across face to verify how accurate the cross slide on the lathe was. I'm sure there's a better way to describe it, but I think I'm getting my point across.
Physics Question, heat can cause magnets to stop being magnets. So how did you avoid heat build up and keep it magnetic? I have some guesses but I figured I'd ask.
You never had to buy used chucks, eh? Every chuck I buy (even the new ones) gets taken apart, cleaned, greased with Molybdenum, and put back together. Then tests and adjustments are done before being put into service.
No. Not really. The gears here are exposed to the dirty enviroment; even if just by a little, thanks to that long slide. Grease would just trap more dirt and even hard metal chips to wear away the scroll pkate and chuck teeth.
I do enjoy Adam's machining videos, but sometimes it can be a little bit painful as an industry professional, because I can't help him avoid mistakes, and have to just watch them happen.
Here's the problem with any facing job on a lathe. If the cross feed on the carriage doesn't move exactly perpendicular to the lathe axis the face will be convex or concave. You check that by indicating the face opposite of the feed in side. Indicating the feed side to center should read zero. But if the cross feed is off indicating from center to opposite side will show plus or minus. Fix it by shimming the carriage half that amount in the correcting direction. Check to be sure the face indicates zero all the way across. You should also have 3 lapping plates to maintain the flat. Lapping them sequentially against each other. The principle is the only common curvature 3 faces can share is zero. You can demonstrate it with 3 pieces of sandstone, and get a precision flat on sandstone. That's how the stones of Machu Pichu were fitted together.
Absolutely correct about the alignment of the cross slide to the spindle axis. In fact on most lathes it's adjusted so a facing cut leaves that very slightly concave surface (shown by the "unreached" centre after lapping). This is preferred over leaving the surface "high in the centre" so that any two surfaces faced on the same machine and placed against each other won't rock. I'm not old enough to comment authoritatively on the construction techniques of the ancient city 😉
@@russelldold4827 When I was a kid I followed the space program. I entertained by telling what was planned. Jealous detractors maliciously claimed I couldn't tell the future. A nuclear war could prevent it. To thwart them I prefaced with the morbid detail "barring a nuclear war." Detractors then claimed "You're always talking nuclear war". Like many attacked like this my 8 year old self invented another phrase that others invented to thwart them; "Barring some unforeseen event". A phrase that was so common it was in "The Right Stuff". Of course they demanded "like what?" to set up another detraction. But that was a question an honest kid didn't have to answer. So the cheats just started fights. I got good at fights too. In my career I made among other things the Boeing 777 fuselage turning fixture. 1600 were made with my fixture over 30 years with no crashes to this day. Detractors pointed minor crashes. To thwart them I added the morbid detail no mass fatality crashes. Detractors continued pointing out one shot down by Russians, and a missing Malaysian Air flight likely hijacked. Another morbid detail "mass fatality accident" to thwart malicious trolls. You detract by implication that a person has to be old enough to have seen Machu Pichu stones fitted together to speak authoritatively. I didn't see what the Baghdad battery was used for but I know what it would have been used for. Not lightbulbs or electro plating because they had none. It's common knowledge what they did have that the battery would have been used for. I won't tell you. I'd tell Adam. He has everything he needs right there to make one, and use it in 5 minutes.
The problem with this method is that the X axis of the lathe can have some cone so your surface tends to be like a bowl. And for a magnet chuck even a couple of hundredth of mm can be decisive. So it would be better to make some measurements first. Or at least after. *Actually we can see exactly what I said when the chuck is polished on the plate: the center isn't touching.
For my 'monkey in his shed' level of expertise, I get by flattening using a piece of float glass (any glass shelving from a charity/goodwill store works) and abrasive paper stuck to it. Great for servicing plane soles, chisel faces etc
it...just balfes me how you and other makers and creative minds/workers can set something so accurate. id hire you just to deal with my 3d printer xD hahaha
Hey Adam, some day would you strap a go-pro with a wide angle to your head and just walk all through your shop and point out everything from your perspective. I don't think I've ever seen that parts washer...now I'm wondering what else I've never seen. 🙂
IMO the lathe was harmed more with a coating of grinding grit than the chuck was improved. The chuck can function for years with minor turning marks to it. Although, OCD tendencies which many machinists have might prevent the ability to ignore harmless imperfections........ask me how I know.
One other thing. A lot of people will use sandpaper on their granite tables to flat sand something in, or put a grain on it. If you've got a plate that is calibrated, certified plate, and want to keep it that way, keep the abrasives completely away from it. Ask the guys from STANDRIDGE that come and calibrate your plates, theyll tell you how much the abrasives remove. Use your table saw instead.
What happened to the one day builds? Not that i don`t enjoy all content on this channel but i really miss all the weapon, cosplay and other fun geeky builds. They seem to get more an more scarce.
are you ever going to build that infinity mirror dodecahedron with good materials? you said that when you made one with matt. should be a fun project and suits your shop well
Good on you for trying to improve your told after the job is done, but that buff you did the face plate negated most of your lapping. If you take smaller passes with the grinder, tenths of a thousandth, and relieve the back side of your wheel it won't heat up and cause the cupping that the lap was supposed to remove. Nice job doing more with less 👍
I would argue otherwise - A lathe in decent condition has to face slightly concave (So parts faced sit flat and dont wiggle.). Its not much - 0,02mm dish over 200mm as per standard on a toolroom lathe this size. That explains the lapping/contact pattern we see in the video very well.
@@StefanGotteswinter That is as may be, and actually it does make a bit of sense at least on a regular chuck, but Adam clearly stated he was going for a completely flat grind, which he didn't get. Ergo, even if it did turn out for the best, something must be out of whack 😉
I love watching Adam be Adam... but there's a little Jamie in my head that goes (cue Grant Imahara finger mustache) "well... Adam if you had used it right the first time you wouldn't have had to spend so much time cleaning your tools..."
I can hear that on Jamie's voice, it's totally a thing he would say.
Grant! I miss Grant…
Rip grant
Up next on Savage Builds - A custom fabricated, machined and 3-D printed, lapping plate holder. That way the next time he has to use it the thing won't dance all over his workbench. Stay tuned.
A couple of F-style clamps would have done the same thing. The investment was in time, seconds.
@@robertlevine2152 But where’s the fun in that? :)
@@robertlevine2152 while true, and the least amount of work required. it does not suit the over engineering overkill of this channel
@@cmdraftbrn good answer
Just flip the lap plate and move it instead of the chuck 😄
These videos are so interesting to me at almost 50yo. My first job at 16 was working for a friend of my parents’ machine shop for the summer. I probably broke more things monetarily than I produced, but learning mills and lathes has always informed me on being a maker with a modest scene shop. I also had my first 2 shop injuries there, and learned about safety first-hand. I wish that I had access now to that kind of equipment to address some of those younger mistakes. These videos are such a wealth of knowledge.
Great video Adam! Some not necessary but maybe helpful information. When you use the grinder, take off your carriage to get out the dust. Helps elongsting your lathes life and accuracy. And when you check your runout to use the er collects, put the indicator on the mating surface inside, so you read the true position your collets will have.
As a machinist I love your machinists videos. It's a joy to watch a childhood hero to something I do at work!
Greetings from Germany :)
I am SOOOO ready for part 4 of the vault door! Have me sitting here grinding my teeth for it!
Nope, not triggered at all by that lapping plate moving all over the place during the time lapse lol
The man needs to learn about rigidity on ALL his work surfaces. He's preached about it's importance in a previous video, but obviously doesn't practice what he preaches.
bugged me too lol
@@whitey129 The big vice on the wobbly small bench is a constant source of frustration for me. He even did a video years ago about trying to make that bench more stable, but the addition of the diagonal tension straps actually achieved little. Still, Adam is a legend. I love him. He's an absolute delight.
the man has around 1500 clamps as well
could have clamped that plate down or ratchet strapped Ha
The time lapse music is never what I would ordinarily listen to, but it is always good. Great work editor!
“Abused from my impatience”. Can’t fix his impatience so he’ll just have to occasionally repair the damage it causes!
Thanks for being you Adam! You are a great source of inspiration + nice to geek out. Nice tolerances
Sir, your videos are a tonic for our troubled times, thanks.
This is what you were telling me about when I met you in Dallas. Awesome to see a video about it.
Do miss the one day build videos, i used to love watching those and taking inspiration for my own builds
They make tables for that??!!! I'm over here using a granite block with sandpaper taped to it!!! Nice!!
I was gonna make the exact same comment! 😂
I absolutely love switchable magnets, there's something that just itches that spot in my brain about a magnet you can turn on and off, I don't currently own one but I think I need to after realising this
Stop. What?!? There’s a tool you don’t have?!? Actually that made me want to watch it more…almost like you’re one of us lol. Love it!
Old guy here who was once a bicycle mechanic back in the '70s. I couldn't help but notice you used 3-in-One oil on your chuck. Back 40-50 years ago, we bike mechanics loathed 3-in-One oil. As a product readily available to people at their local drug and grocery stores, everyone use it to oil their bicycle chains and when they'd bring their bikes into the shop for tuneups and repairs the stink of rancid 3-in-One oil was really gross, plus its lubrication properties seemed to change over time, not due to road grime, but it would just go bad and turn gooey rather than being oily. We always figured it was primarily a vegetable based oil which is why it turned rancid and would stink. Anyway, to this day, I would never use 3-in-One oil on anything. (Maybe the formula has changed, and I would hope so, but anyway, that was my experience with it.)
just remember every chuck needs to be re-centered every time you remove and reinstall the chuck
this is because of several factors
1. you will almost never put the chuck adapter pins in the same hole
-unless you mark the chuck and the adapter plate
2. you will never get the adapter pins to the same tightness as you have now
- you would need to use a torque wrench each time
a true set chuck allows you to make these adjustments easier
the above is really only necessary for sub 0.0001
yes you can do it on this lathe
Crazy Idea - a powered jig that does the lapping movement and can be mechanically adjusted for object shapes, weights and various lapping patterns
The chuck has lead in the grooves, well the good ones do, never grind the face unless you remove enough lead so the level is below the steel surface by about 0.020". Reason for this is the lead doesn't grind but smears and will load the wheel, which will need more dressing, and the face will not be as flat as you want. Just make up a tool that is slightly narrower than the grooves in a hook shape. FFS clamp the lapping plate down.
Adam at the parts washer, "Wanna avoid dishpan hands while cleaning your chucks? Get Polmolive!" :D
May 20th? Whoa! You have some content to share.
You need an overhead hoist for moving those chucks around :-).
Or possibly a skyhook, as seen on abom79. Definitely not something I'd want to do manually, for sure. Weedy noodle arms here. ;-]
@@llearch Jesus, that skyhooky thing is a piece of crap, and those are lightweight chucks! I don't bother with the overhead till I get to the 15" usually. well if im feeling really lazy and I have it in place, ill use it on the 10"... and im 145 dripping wet...
@@timkohchi2048 Congrats on hitting 145, and best wishes on this next year for your 146th.
You'd think that Adam would have learned the value of safety glasses and not sticking his hand near a rapidly spinning hunk of metal by now.
The towel under the lathe 🥴
@@kdub_He has the towel there to prevent the metal dust from getting on the rails and damaging them
My little honing tool "shat the bed" I always thought of that as a British saying!
Nope, not at all. Us 'muricans also use it!
Everybody poops, it's universal!
Damn, Adam... that camera whip was wild in this video. felt like I was watching Cloverfield lol
i never noticed you have the fostoria style machinist lamp. i love those, ive got like maybe 16 of em but not just fostoria, i got the dazor, andsome unknown brands and a couple british ones. i grab em whenever i can. when i get back from rehab im going to fully restore them all, powder coat them etc. however i will keep my favorites apart and start reproducing them due to the fact there is no superior ball joint articulating task lamp in my opinion. i might modernize the design a bit. the lamp head will be the hardest part.
Good luck at rehab stay strong
ADAM!!! You could have taken that beast to a proper machine shop with a surface grinder and had it trued up to 0.0001 for a nominal cost. Practice self care!
Love the videos. Always something new and exciting
Parts cleaners are 100% recommended for any shop where you have to clean grease off something.
love the new music!
Maybe just put a couple pins on the bottom of the lapping plate that index into the dog holes on the workbench? You could do something fancier, but why? You need it held in place, but the exact location on the workbench doesn't have a particular tolerance.
Not sure if the music is new, but it's a nice touch.
Just got done making coffee and meditating and come back to my desk to a Tested video oh boy lemme say what a treat. Much love to everyone watching and the Tested Crew!!!!!
Hey Adam, check this out. It's constructive, not critical. I would have taken that chuck apart, degreased it, then did an extreme deburr on it, maybe even hit it on that lapping plate. Same with the 3 gears. The faces where the chuck comes together too. Then when reassembled, seat the part back into the jaws (your ER32 or ER16 collet holder) with a soft mallet or piece of aluminum, and I've found when you do that, they'll repeat better. Just a little hint, not a gripe at all.
Cut some grooves into your butcher block chuck table to fit over the lathe's ways. That way, when you're mounting your chuck, the chuck table will stay put. ❤👍
If you did it in the video, I missed it, but don't you need to maintain the orientation of the spindle index with the direction that you faced the chuck? Meaning if you have four possible orientations, turning the spindle 90 degrees from the orientation that you did your facing could mean facing it again with the new orientation could yield a different result. Do you have a "North" mark on your spindle so when you machine the mag chuck, you can maintain the same orientation every time you swap it on and off?
i have similar chemical resistant gloves. we used them at work for cleaning, according to policy, they are single use gloves. i have them all over my shop, kitchen, garden. each pair of gloves lives in a kit for its given purpose. most have lasted a decade, the only ones that i have damaged were used digging in the garden
Holymoly.. that's some precision. Side note and not that it's suitable here but I was always impressed with hand metal scraping that they did in the "old days" I use a CNC router at work with a spoil board. Resurfacing it is always very satisfying.
very much done today too, lapping and grinding machined surfaces are not good for any metal on metal slide ways (oil). linear rails are great but cant resist or bare the same level of forces a classic dovetail type slideway. and require to be serviced and replaced fairly frequently. i rebuild industrial machinery and i use our biax scrapper like once every couple months on jobs that need it.
still is the best way to get a metal surface sliding on a single 2D plane. Humans are amazing at creating geometric accuraccy, its just precision we have to make machines and stops to get to.
(Or at least was before 2020. Ive been a little out of the game)
Some people can feel out of round, and out of flat movements that are only nanometers out! it really is incredible how sensitive our nerves are.
After this I went and look it up. I think I assumed it was an older technique from seeing it used in old machinery rebuilding in videos.
13:49 Concentric is the word you're looking for.
Not really, was probably looking for "true". You don't really say concentric even though it could be used but it's usually used relative to another circle or axis rather than absolute terms with the lathe
@@inertiaMS What he's measuring is concentricity with the lathe spindle axis.
I was literally saying out loud as if he'd hear me. Lol😅
@@stargazer7644 I've definitely heard it called "true", but concentric is what it really is
For those who might not be aware, "trueness" is how close a measurement is to the real or desired value. Making it true means (in this case) getting the runout to zero (the desired value). So while you could say he got it within 5 microns of being true that's a bit like saying he got it within 5 microns of zero. It's a bit redundant since that's what the 5 micron measurement means in the first place - 5 microns from zero.
What he's really trying to say is he got it within 5 microns of being perfectly concentric - sharing the same center - which was the actual goal.
Thank you, Adam, for this educational video on lathes.
The problem with tool post grinders is that you essentially have to break the entire carriage down after each use to get the grit out.
you gotta get where your close to your cut, then make a dam like a dentist, do your cuts. clean then your good. your wipers good? and apron sealed properly? i geuss you probobly dont have a leadscrew cover, so i geuss that would need to be cleaned. im just too lazy to do that every time
im guessing adam did not do that.
Saran wrap is what I use to protect my ways and critical surfaces. Safe, cheap and temporary.
@@thrustaviationtoolingis it red hot spark proof, though?
adam i put a few small magnets in my parts washer to help catch shavings and other collectables. It has worked great to also keep the fluid collectable free. You should try it. 😁
Me waiting for him to clamp his sanding plate to the table
3-in-One oil for your chuck? The topic of scroll chuck lubrication came up recently on some forum. Based on that, I use a thin application of Molykote G-N paste. Rhöm has a white paper at their website that's worth a look,
Taking a lap sure did look like a workout.
Adam so needs a small surface grinder!
Polishing metal to a shine is my favorite way to meditate. Simichrome fumes can be a bit intrusive on ones happy place though lol
I’d highly recommend getting in touch with Robin renzetti or Spencer Webb. You were alright and blew it with the polish and scotch bright. Lapping is an art, and when done wrong is like a child finger painting.
It makes a funny sound when he spins the Chuck by hand
Adam is a much kinder man to his tools than I...
Right after this Adam went and flopped down in his club chair.
And say "Oh there's my other chuck key"
Is the next video going to be about how a company gave him a surface grinder? Kind of surprising he doesn't have one.
man u are so smart i love ur videos i am a big fan since mythbusterss
gotta get those proper adjustable sunnen hones boiiii! they got sets of ranges obviously. at work 1 set 0.5in to 2in, another is 2 to 5 then the last one is 3 to 18in. they all have stones that are built in diameter ranges and are awesome for just a couple thou
Adam, I feel your pain over the mag chuck. I do hope you made note of how much you removed from the surface. Most of them have an allowed total amount you can remove without harming the strength of the chuck.
Love the video Adam .
The more you use your lapping plate the less proper flat it will be. You need two lapping plates, so that every few operations, you lap them between one another and obtain flatness again.
Well, if we are getting this fancy, you technically need 3. the only geometry that can be shared by 3 surfaces is a plane. Two plates can end up with one being convex and the other having a matching concave surface.
You need three. If you lap them against each other, they will become perfectly flat. It's a mathematic certainty.
@@neilwinkelmann8540 Redundant comment.
@@leaflee2066 more useful than yours mate 🤭
@@wrongtown What by exactly saying what the only other comment said an hour before?
dont forget to stamp the chuck and spindle so you know which way it was surface matched.
Wish you would've used a dial indicator to show the flatness om the lathe for that magnetic chuck.
That would have shown it was cut in a bowl shape.
I wish you had mounted a tenths indicator onto the carriage and swept it across the magnetic chuck while still installed on the lathe. Using a precision straight edge, you could set it across face to verify how accurate the cross slide on the lathe was. I'm sure there's a better way to describe it, but I think I'm getting my point across.
Physics Question, heat can cause magnets to stop being magnets. So how did you avoid heat build up and keep it magnetic? I have some guesses but I figured I'd ask.
In my nearly 50 years around machine tools I've never seen a chuck dismantled to that degree.
You never had to buy used chucks, eh? Every chuck I buy (even the new ones) gets taken apart, cleaned, greased with Molybdenum, and put back together. Then tests and adjustments are done before being put into service.
Just call up Inheritance Machining and have him make you one of his top shelf versions.
im surprised you seemingly only used 3in1 for the lubrication, wouldn't those normally get a decent amount of grease ?
No. Not really.
The gears here are exposed to the dirty enviroment; even if just by a little, thanks to that long slide.
Grease would just trap more dirt and even hard metal chips to wear away the scroll pkate and chuck teeth.
I do enjoy Adam's machining videos, but sometimes it can be a little bit painful as an industry professional, because I can't help him avoid mistakes, and have to just watch them happen.
As Ted Woodford would say- polishing, polishing, polishing...
Everything is a science, is what I always say.
Great video sir 😊
Iv never seen a steel plate like that, iv always used the stone but I’m glad you did the figure 8👍
I think it's time for you to build a lapping robot. This is the 2nd time I've seen you use it.
Here's the problem with any facing job on a lathe. If the cross feed on the carriage doesn't move exactly perpendicular to the lathe axis the face will be convex or concave. You check that by indicating the face opposite of the feed in side. Indicating the feed side to center should read zero. But if the cross feed is off indicating from center to opposite side will show plus or minus. Fix it by shimming the carriage half that amount in the correcting direction. Check to be sure the face indicates zero all the way across.
You should also have 3 lapping plates to maintain the flat. Lapping them sequentially against each other. The principle is the only common curvature 3 faces can share is zero. You can demonstrate it with 3 pieces of sandstone, and get a precision flat on sandstone. That's how the stones of Machu Pichu were fitted together.
Absolutely correct about the alignment of the cross slide to the spindle axis. In fact on most lathes it's adjusted so a facing cut leaves that very slightly concave surface (shown by the "unreached" centre after lapping). This is preferred over leaving the surface "high in the centre" so that any two surfaces faced on the same machine and placed against each other won't rock.
I'm not old enough to comment authoritatively on the construction techniques of the ancient city 😉
@@russelldold4827 When I was a kid I followed the space program. I entertained by telling what was planned. Jealous detractors maliciously claimed I couldn't tell the future. A nuclear war could prevent it. To thwart them I prefaced with the morbid detail "barring a nuclear war." Detractors then claimed "You're always talking nuclear war". Like many attacked like this my 8 year old self invented another phrase that others invented to thwart them; "Barring some unforeseen event". A phrase that was so common it was in "The Right Stuff". Of course they demanded "like what?" to set up another detraction. But that was a question an honest kid didn't have to answer. So the cheats just started fights. I got good at fights too.
In my career I made among other things the Boeing 777 fuselage turning fixture. 1600 were made with my fixture over 30 years with no crashes to this day. Detractors pointed minor crashes. To thwart them I added the morbid detail no mass fatality crashes. Detractors continued pointing out one shot down by Russians, and a missing Malaysian Air flight likely hijacked. Another morbid detail "mass fatality accident" to thwart malicious trolls.
You detract by implication that a person has to be old enough to have seen Machu Pichu stones fitted together to speak authoritatively.
I didn't see what the Baghdad battery was used for but I know what it would have been used for. Not lightbulbs or electro plating because they had none. It's common knowledge what they did have that the battery would have been used for. I won't tell you. I'd tell Adam. He has everything he needs right there to make one, and use it in 5 minutes.
Invariably, the first time you use it again you’ll mar the face again. Sorry, but it’s the law of the shop
really hoped you run indicator over the finished magnetic chuck surface for us all to see how good it was...
I do not have a surface grinder
1 week later
Hi welcome to the cave I would like to show off my new surface grinder 😂
The problem with this method is that the X axis of the lathe can have some cone so your surface tends to be like a bowl. And for a magnet chuck even a couple of hundredth of mm can be decisive. So it would be better to make some measurements first. Or at least after.
*Actually we can see exactly what I said when the chuck is polished on the plate: the center isn't touching.
For my 'monkey in his shed' level of expertise, I get by flattening using a piece of float glass (any glass shelving from a charity/goodwill store works) and abrasive paper stuck to it. Great for servicing plane soles, chisel faces etc
I was expecting:
"I do not have a surface grinder"
Buys surface grinder!
it...just balfes me how you and other makers and creative minds/workers can set something so accurate. id hire you just to deal with my 3d printer xD hahaha
I saw a lot of chips in that 6 jaw at 8:11, this is why you don't use air around a chuck.
Very cool video as always but can we get a 1+\- day build that isn’t behind a paywall for old times sake
Hi Dr. Savage!
I really doubt the flatness was 1um across the surface. There was a lot of questionable technique going on here.
I never noticed that Adam is wearing a pair of Tom Sachs mars yards
*_Set Tru, not Tru Set._*
Hey Adam, some day would you strap a go-pro with a wide angle to your head and just walk all through your shop and point out everything from your perspective. I don't think I've ever seen that parts washer...now I'm wondering what else I've never seen. 🙂
He's done several cave tour videos over the years. They're basically what you're asking for.
IMO the lathe was harmed more with a coating of grinding grit than the chuck was improved. The chuck can function for years with minor turning marks to it. Although, OCD tendencies which many machinists have might prevent the ability to ignore harmless imperfections........ask me how I know.
The concavity of the chuck after grinding tells you your spindle isn't square to your crossslide.
One other thing. A lot of people will use sandpaper on their granite tables to flat sand something in, or put a grain on it. If you've got a plate that is calibrated, certified plate, and want to keep it that way, keep the abrasives completely away from it. Ask the guys from STANDRIDGE that come and calibrate your plates, theyll tell you how much the abrasives remove. Use your table saw instead.
If you want to insure "flatness", you need to run the grinder across the entire face, front to back. The slide may be a tiny bit off.
Talk to Geico if you want to insure something. I hear they can save you 15% or more.
What happened to the one day builds? Not that i don`t enjoy all content on this channel but i really miss all the weapon, cosplay and other fun geeky builds. They seem to get more an more scarce.
are you ever going to build that infinity mirror dodecahedron with good materials?
you said that when you made one with matt.
should be a fun project and suits your shop well
och der Noooorbert nochmal in nem Video....schön. :-P
Nice workout 👍
Good on you for trying to improve your told after the job is done, but that buff you did the face plate negated most of your lapping. If you take smaller passes with the grinder, tenths of a thousandth, and relieve the back side of your wheel it won't heat up and cause the cupping that the lap was supposed to remove. Nice job doing more with less 👍
That looks like quite the nasty break on the inside of the 6 jaw chuck's spiral.
Looks like you ground a bit of a dish in that, so the cross slide might not be traveling truly perpendicular to the Z axis.
I would have thought you would have blued the magnet chuck using your surface plate to determine where the chuck was not flat.
"Hi Dr. Nick!"
That lapping pattern suggests either your lapping plate is completely bowed or there is something seriously out of whack on your lathe.
I would argue otherwise - A lathe in decent condition has to face slightly concave (So parts faced sit flat and dont wiggle.). Its not much - 0,02mm dish over 200mm as per standard on a toolroom lathe this size.
That explains the lapping/contact pattern we see in the video very well.
@@StefanGotteswinter That is as may be, and actually it does make a bit of sense at least on a regular chuck, but Adam clearly stated he was going for a completely flat grind, which he didn't get. Ergo, even if it did turn out for the best, something must be out of whack 😉
Mag chuck face: touch it with a precision stone to knock off any upset spots or burrs and call it a day.