Paul, Jordan, and Rad, with those coil siding nailers, the reason the coil is sticking for you is that it isn't adjusted properly for the nail length. Inside the coil reel is a tray that needs to be adjusted to the nail length. Usually a lift and a twist. There should be a gauge inside the coil reel to set the nail length. The same happened to me when I first started using one.
That board you're using for fascia is designed not to paint. If you are painting that and you're using the smooth side out especially if you're going to be using a black trim paint I recommend a bonding primer Sherwin-Williams has an extreme Bond primer Benjamin Moore has a product called Styx otherwise you could have issues in the future with peeling paint. I have been a painter for 45 years
Rad is one amazing addition to the Stud Pack team, Hard working, agile, and easygoing. He is knowledgeable and a great addition. I can honestly say no builder would have the detailed installation the three of you have done so far. This is a GarageHouse build unequaled in the real world,
I really enjoy your content. After several years of roofing experience, I have a suggestion for you. I would recommend that in the future you extend your roof sheeting down far enough to overhang slightly past the outer face of your fascia boards. If that is not done, when it rains Before the roofing materials are installed, the facia boards create a bit of a dam that can catch some of the water and direct it Behind your fascia boards and into your soffits, and if there ever happens to be any moisture that leaks through the roofing materials at any time in the future it can have the same effect. Because that wasn't done on this project, you might want to consider either caulking that entire seam between the roof sheeting and the fascia boards, or use a peel and stick flashing material at the bottom edge of the roof to lap over the face of the fascia a little bit, to prevent any water from getting behind the fascia. The way you cut the groove on the back of the fascia boards to insert the soffit material, makes it even more important that water has no chance to get behind the fascia, because the water will be trapped inside the soffits with no easy way out. If enough water got behind the fascia in a heavy rain, it could fill up enough to force water back inside the building. (P.S. Don't be tempted to just preinstall the roof drip edge metal to try to direct the water over the fascia, because if the top edge of the drip edge metal isn't sealed, the rain will run right under it and direct the water behind the fascia boards also.) Have a great day.
I noticed that as well! I did the soffit and Fascia on my old house; I tried to get all fancy with it and I used a hardy product for both the soffit and the Fascia. Granted this was 25 years ago and I'm sure they make a more appropriate product now, but at the time I cut a dado in my fascia. It was messy but I got it done OK. The problems? Hardy Isn't waterproof! It's water resistant! It just doesn't rot like wood. It basically disintegrates and starts flaking to pieces. The soffit material wasn't very structurally rigid or strong and tended to sag. Additionally and why I concur with the above poster is some roofers are better than others! The roofers on that house didn't run the sheeting and shingles down quite far enough as a result the water flowed onto the Hardie fascia and it basically disintegrated. Granted it did take 15 years or so. But, the part that wasn't exposed to the water was in much better shape! PVC? All the PVC I've ever used was brittle and broke easily. Especially after a few years of exposure. I am actually replacing the facia and soffit in my current house right now and again I'm dealing with undoing or overcoming the shoddy workmanship of previous contractors and roofers. Thing is. Now I'm just using WOOD! YEAH! Good ole reliable wood! It may not be as exotic as some of those other materials, but it's inexpensive, easily available, and easy to work with. AND if it doesn't last very long I can easily knock it out and replace it! Much less headaches! 👍
Another thing to consider: I've noticed on both my houses that when stripping off the old shingles it's not unusual for them to stick their shovel or tool up under the shingle and then pull down basically using the fascia as a fulcrum. This puts a lot of pressure on the fascia and they broke a lot of my fascia on the other house. On my current house you can tell they'd done it at least a couple times because the fascia while not broken was pulled away from the rafters by 1/2" it so and because the sheeting hadn't been extended far enough, again the water was getting in behind the fascia, pooling and rotting the soffit. Unfortunately, I'm just one guy! I can't reroof a house by myself and I'm getting too old anywayz! So, sorry but after all that I'm just suggesting. When you build something, have a little consideration for the poor schmuck who gotta come in and work on it after you or try to anticipate what some inept contractor in the future might do with your creation down the road! 😮😊
I THINK THE LAST TIME WE DID A PITCHED SOFFIT...was 50 years ago. To this date, we always build level soffits with bread boxes. There are many reasons why they never build pitched soffits.
Same here, I don’t like the look at all of angled soffit. IMO it makes it look like amateur work. I like the look of bird boxes, and can also add lighting under.
@11:25 I would have clamped a board on the fence to act as a vertical featherboard. Pretty tough to keep it tight when it's that long and working with a jobsite saw. And the fact that 3 guys built all of the garage is mind bending! Kudos to StudPack!
Hansangb, not knocking Stud Pack as I toot my own horn. In 1986, my 60 y.o. father and I, 31 y.o., built my 3500 sq. ft. home alone. Except for the poured walls for the basement, and the cabinets. He and I did it all. From the day I cut the first tree for clearing to the day my wife, son and I move in was 10.5 months. And that was working afternoons when I got off work from my full time job at Pella Windows of GA. and all weekends. Concrete basement and garage floor, plumbing, brick chimney, hard cost stucco, electrical, waterproofing, septic tank and drain field, 120 long concrete driveway, framing , insulation, drywall, flooring, just to name some of it. We still live in the same house and the only repair so far has been HVAC and replaced the roof 2 years ago. I get it that Stud Pack has to take more time filming and editing, so like I said, not knocking them.
@@dallasarnold8615 Good for you! I'm sure you're proud to show it off. I've always dreamed of doing what you did, but it's just a dream. I don't have the place to do it. And by the time I get the hell out of NYC, I won't have anyone to build it with. So in the meantime, I'll do my woodworking out of a single car garage that barely fits my tablesaw. You make do what what you have, I suppose.
Three guys seems about right, unless you want to add a go-for. They also presented, filmed, and edited as they went of course. I'm not sure what more hands would have done. Pro framers could do with two.
@@jasontubbs2192 My dad was the power. He had a lot of experience that I did not. I was the brute force, THEN. He was a better man than me. I do not believe I could do the same with my own son now. He is older than I was, and I am older than my dad was.
Love what you guys are doing. Jordan, how lucky are you to have such a talented Dad. Cherish this time and experience. For the love of building, buy your Dad a new pair of work boots.
That fascia overlap would look better and not require a plug if you went the other way. Cut the side fascia to length, then on the gable end let the fascia board overlap and do the same routing trick. The benefit is that the front and rear (where people are looking) won't have a visible seam, plus you won't need the plugs.
Came to say the same thing. They can still run the side fascia long and flush trim to the gable subfacia, then overlap the side fascia end with the gable fascia. Run that long too, if you want, and flush trim that too.
I like this guy. Don't always agree with his construction practice and he may not agree with mine but he's not afraid to try new things and admits when he screwed something up. We all screw things up. It's worth a shot to find out if something works. 👍
Pvc expands and contacts a lot. I've used Azek pvc for years, and have never not left an expansion joint, unless it's 90° plus. Hopefully you don't have any problems. Looks great 👍
Rad's motion to reset the nailer reminded me a LOT of Terminator 2. Both Arnold's spinning reload of his shotgun during the motorcycle scene as well as Linda Hamilton's reloading of her shotgun in the metal plant scene. 😁
Great job. Looks fantastic. I am concerned that you didn't leave room for expansion on your joints however. Installing that azek tight in cold weather will cause bulging and oil canning in the heat of the summer. You may have to address some issues with joints when July gets here. Hope it all works out for you.
Man I have a grudge against rakes lol. Just some tips for future reference. They make a felt tip and spring loaded bit designed to set the screws the exact depth of the plugs. Azek makes 1x16 and 4x8 sheets you can rip for wide soffets. Also, if you're putting gutters, you always want your rake tails long to hide the ends of the gutters. That would've also hidden your dado cuts. Nice work fellas. Looking forward to the next one.
Thank you explaining all the pieces of the eaves and what they are. I kept getting them confused or just forgot what they were called. Ugh!!! Awesome video like always. Love you guys
man its telling on yourselves. this rip is 18.5 to 19+ 5/8 x 80". and then just saying hey here is where we couldv'e sprayed the end of the 3rd p trusses to orient them the same next time(to account for this warpage). and also the robotic "make it land on the ctr of the beam" and then realizing it should just go to the end of wall - that is priceless. thanx for making it always a teachable moment. awesome.
It's a rainy and very cold Saturday afternoon in the Bay Area today - fun to watch you guys work with sunshine and blue skies in Texas! I so appreciate Paul's details, and also that he steps back a bit to let the young guys get the crucial experience of doing the work! All the best to you!
I love your channel and have followed this Houston build from the beginning. You have taught me so much! Truly, thanks! I do think that little plug thing you did to fill the end of the groove on the fascia board on the gable end was poorly executed. Rather than pop a little white Lexel in there to fill that void, you cut a poorly fitting plug of Azak, and when you drove it in it pushed the fascia board away AND split it! That part should never have left the editing room floor! It was not up to your normal high craftsmanship.
Very nice! For three guys to pull all of this off is pretty remarkable. One thing I noticed when putting up the fascia is there's a slight gap between the fascia and the roof sheet. Not the end of the world, but now you have to account for water breaching the gap, ESPECIALLY because you used unvented soffit - there's nowhere for the water to escape. So you might want to install some ZIP tape from the sheet over the edge of the fascia. Once the roof is complete, you won't see it, but it will definitely protect from water seeping behind the fascia on rainy days. A roof sheet overhang would have helped with this, but if you were going for a certain aesthetic choice for the roof line, it's fine. You just have to account for the impact of not having the overhang. The work looks phenomenal. I like Jordan's willingness to get the best material he can afford, and not just ordering to budget - sometimes you have to spend a little extra to get the best material, the shell of the building is the most important part of the structure - and I love Paul's level of knowledge and experience to know how best to apply it all. Soffit and fascia looks fantastic. Just don't forget to seal it! Great job guys! 👍👍
@@pcatful For a first time DIY builder this is a massive job, especially when all 3 havent done this before and no home build only has 3 on a crew...and to do it at their level of detail is an even more massive job. Ridiculous comment. These people aren't you traditional corporate scammy mickey mouse builders
Happy New Year - and yes, I'm glad to see another upload. I was beginning to worry that you had run up against another hurdle on this project or something... but I'm glad to see you back at it. Thanks for sharing this Stud Pack Dream Build with us... oh, and you should maybe keep putting that wording in your titles - whatever it was. I know you had been planning this dream build for a long time before actually being able to get started on it - and I know that LOTS of people look for the "dream" build... or the "dream" shop... so... for whatever that is worth. Love the energy you have when you talk about this stuff.
I was excited when I saw the video from Stud Pack in my feed as I have been obsessively checking UA-cam daily for a Stud Pack video as it is one of my favorite channels on UA-cam.
Very nice attention to detail. Best soffit I’ve ever seen. You may want to consider putting some Zip System flashing tape on the roof and overlap it on to the Azek. Just enough so the drip edge will cover it and you will never see it. Will help keep any moisture and critters out. Love watching y’all. Best channel on UA-cam!!
I just did my trim in pvc. You really need a respirator cutting the pvc. The aerosolized plastic particles coming off my table saw are also terrible for your lungs. When cutting the long boards like that I clamp a 4ft section of the saw guide instead of the feather because it keeps the pvc square to the fence over a longer area. The 18ft sections of pvc are so floppy they can bend on the short axis and your cut line walks. The cortex screws driver bit has the felt tip and stop that lets you drive till you hit the stop is much nicer, perfect plug depth every time.
Hey Stud pack. I finally was able to watch your last video. Started watching your videos to get some help installing a backslash in our kitchen. Loved the videos and started watching them all from the beginning. You guys have grown so much since. Keep up the good work. Send my wife and I a shout out on your next video lol.
PVC is going to be a hassle with expansion and contraction in the Texas sun. I would highly recommend going Boral when you can as it does not have the expansion issues PVC does. PVC unlike wood expands both length and width. Boral cuts just like butter with wood blades as well; unlike the Hardy products. Also, PVC really needs to be painted. As it ages the pores tend to open up and it holds moisture which encourages mold growth.
Almost the exact combination I did with my renovation in 2018. Hardie soffit with PVC fascia and oversized seamless gutters. Never have to worry about rot from the part of the house that sees probably the most rain and moisture.
On the rest of your Azek use Christy’s White Hot. It works great to meld you pvc together. See if you can find the squeeze tube. You could also use it to plug your kerfs. As far as the nail gun is concerned the spool on the gun adjust to the nail length. I think you have it adjusted for 3” nails. Nice detail Paul. KUTGW!
Great start to the New Year! Looks great, and you three are working like a well oiled machine these days. Jordan, your production skills are top notch. Love switching it up with the still photo montage! Always innovating and keeping things fresh Well done!
First, really awesome that you are working together as a father/son team. What a fantastic opportunity for making memories. The AZEK products are great but they really show a lot of dirt and discoloring over time especially anywhere you have a joint, cut edge, or caulk. I know you said you are going to paint the soffits, but I hope you are going to paint the AZEK facia and edges as well I find most people never do that extra step and it is so worth it. FYI, if you use Royal Celect Frost trim boards in the future it comes already painted but does require more planning since it usually is not a stock product in most supply places. Overall, the project is really coming out nice.
18:25 Just FYI for that angle measuring tool you're using. you can twist the center of the black to lock it into place. or if you want before you take the measurement, lock it down so it's harder to move. you can still get your angle but it really holds it in place.
And another tip from a carpenter. If you know the pitch of your roof you don't need angle finders for that stuff. If you framed your roof at 31 degrees you would need a 31 degree cut on your miter saw to make anything plumb.
@@kimmi929 yeah, I think the reason why they were doing this was just to make sure that that angle is perfect since it's going to be visible.. But that also goes to one of my other comments which was you should have used that front gable facia covered over top of the side fascia..
I agree. Gable end first. If you want the angle perfect, you get the board up there and scribe it. Removes any errors in angle finder or saw adjustment.
I used Azek on my house a few years ago. No need to paint it if you want it white. I used Cortex screws that came with a bit that has a felt bumper built in that gave you the correct depth for the screws.
Excellent video guys! A happy and prosperous New Years to you and the gang too! Having worked with thousands of feet of Azek, and been featured in the Handyman magazine with the Azek Inspires series, I would have done exactly what you guys did, great design. In the future, when you have scarf/miter joints, use the Azek PVC glue for joining the pieces. I have no clue what it's made out of, it looks like water, but it does not break. The PVC will fail before the joints. Also, when it comes time to paint the PVC, buzz the surface with some 220, and the paint will stick forever! Another suggestion, when you need to caulk the PVC, use the SikaFlex 1a caulk. Totally waterproof and will flew and last a lifetime. Good luck on the next steps guys!!
I put Azek up for fascia in Chicago. Must be 10 years now. The board cost me almost as much as he high end vinyl siding for the whole house! Shiplapped the joint. I also knew, since it is a vinyl product, it would have something like a half inch expansion between winter and summer at 12 ft. Thus the shiplap as opposed to the 45/scarf,.a half inch gap is pretty visible, especially if you view lines up with the joint. I didn't see your scarf joints, but in the winter you need to gap the joint. Best to install in the heat of summer and then you can butt the joint together. Same goes for the corner overlaps. They don't carry those Azek screws in Home Depot (which used to stock Azek). GRK general purpose construction 2 inch works great with silicone white paintable sealant (attracts less dust) as a plug.
Wood can survive in Houston, it just requires proper wood species selection for rot resistance, and consideration of ventilation and drainage, so you don't trap moisture (either rain or condensation), and constant diligence on maintaining the sealing and coating, i.e. yearly check and repair of caulked joints, and repaint when necessary. That'll be 3-8 years, depending on the quality of paint and prep work, as well as sun exposure. I went a little long (10 years), and the only bits I needed to replace were the bottom run of 8" T&G on two sides off my garage, since the foundation sunk and those sides were in ground contact. Actually, that's why I was late to repaint: was getting the foundation fixed, first. :/ Ok, so it's a lot of work. But it can be done!
Trust me, you want to add a backing board for the TV. You don't want to limit your options on mounts. I work in home theater installation and have ran into way too many brand new homes that we ended up having to mount to a center stud and toggle the edges. Just do it and save the hassle. Now, don't forget to add two brush plates/boxes with a larger conduit to pass your HDMI cables from your tv down to whatever entertainment center you choose. This will really give a minimal look and also once again save tons of headaches. You don't want cables hanging everywhere and running cables through insulation is no fun. I would be glad to answer any questions on the AV side [Speakers, Wiring, ECT]. Sonos has some great simple whole home audio products that would really make this space pop. P.S. I would lower the TV box down around a foot or two. You want your livingroom tv to be centered at eye level. On the other hand this can conflict with furniture, so you have may have to mount it higher than what is considered "ideal". At the end of the day its your space so don't get discouraged by the "TV TOO HIGH" crowd.
I was going to ask if Hardie needed to be gapped between panels but I looked it up instead. :) I figured I'd share what I found in case any other commenters are curious. Hardie says to use "moderate contact" between panels OR you can gap them and caulk them.
you need a top down feather board on your fence to run those long dados. w/ PVC board you can use plumbers glue for tight and sealed Joints- but use fasteners too. Also please tell Rad to send me Blood pressure meds, I need them every time I watch him on a scaffold.
Great details! I've saved this video for when I do my eaves in a few months. Would love to see details for how you will do your roofing material and keep your attic dry, and details on how you will insulate your attic and handle vapor. Great jobs guys!
Yay! So happy to see another video! I really like the dado in the facia board to hide the edge of the soffit material. Those eaves look great! The smooth surface will be easier to clean than textured. I'm looking forward to seeing the next video.
Really enjoyed the video. I wish you guys would have mitered that fascia at the gable ends instead of but joints. That would have been a nice video with the compound miter.
Hey Stud Pack. I’m give you a crazy suggestion. Buy an used boom lift to do siding on garage building, and then use it for the main house. After you are done sell it. It will save you time on setting up scaffolding.
Good decision on the thickness of the dado: Dissimilar materials (Vinyl, cement board) will expand and contract at different rates at different temperatures. You don't want that little vinyl tab breaking off because of contraction rates.
The nail gun might be jamming because the depth tray in the coil holder isn’t set properly. Basically, in the coil holder the floor of it can raise and lower based on the length of nails so it will feed to the barrel of the gun in the correct plane.
I use the same material for my snake racks. I use the half inch. I used to use melamine and that was not only heavy but would sag. This is much better. Water and mold resistant. It’s amazing.
Diablo has the best blades for cutting any Hardie or cement fiberboard material. Those blades lasted the longest and gave the best cuts. Pricey, but when one blade does a few jobs versus other brands needing multiple blades on one job, worth the price. Good call Stud Pack!
Not sure if you’re finished with all your fiber cement work or not, but you should check out the fiber cement shears that are out there. They look just like metal shears, there is zero dust and I personally think it’s faster, especially on rip cuts.
I used a pvc soffit under a deck on a deck i did last spring. We also ran the trex deck waterproofing so we could have a soffit and lights with a ceiling fan. Created a really nice useable space under the deck.
Happy New Year Stud Pack ! Great work as usual. Just like everybody else, I would have done some of it differently. I would have "boxed" (as we call it here ) the eaves. That is running the soffit level, as opposed to matching the roof slope. Also, I prefer to have the rake fascia overlap the side, so that joint looks cleaner from the end where is most often viewed. I think you guys are going to regret not venting the roof system. We will see in a several years, yea or nay. For those that may not have noticed, on the rake fascia, that mitered joint should be ( as it appears to be in the video ) with the long point of the joint pointing down. It looks cleaner from the ground to do it the other way. But this ensures that any rain /moisture runs off to the outside.
I absolutely fall more and more in love with this channel with each passing video. I love the time and precision that goes into each and every detail on the build. You guys rock and i look forward to MANY more of your videos!
Ya know, I told my brother about your channel, and he said "So, you're watching This Old House?" to which I laughed. But I'm glad the tradition carries on. Happy new year!
Paul, Jordan, and Rad, with those coil siding nailers, the reason the coil is sticking for you is that it isn't adjusted properly for the nail length. Inside the coil reel is a tray that needs to be adjusted to the nail length. Usually a lift and a twist. There should be a gauge inside the coil reel to set the nail length. The same happened to me when I first started using one.
That board you're using for fascia is designed not to paint. If you are painting that and you're using the smooth side out especially if you're going to be using a black trim paint I recommend a bonding primer Sherwin-Williams has an extreme Bond primer Benjamin Moore has a product called Styx otherwise you could have issues in the future with peeling paint. I have been a painter for 45 years
Stix is just bulletproof, I've used it to paint stainless for years
Heard that 👊
That’s exactly right , I am a long time oainter and I was thinking same thing
Came here to say the same. Good catch to all.
Styx is what we use for tile and that stuff is tough
Rad is one amazing addition to the Stud Pack team, Hard working, agile, and easygoing. He is knowledgeable and a great addition. I can honestly say no builder would have the detailed installation the three of you have done so far. This is a GarageHouse build unequaled in the real world,
I really enjoy your content. After several years of roofing experience, I have a suggestion for you. I would recommend that in the future you extend your roof sheeting down far enough to overhang slightly past the outer face of your fascia boards. If that is not done, when it rains Before the roofing materials are installed, the facia boards create a bit of a dam that can catch some of the water and direct it Behind your fascia boards and into your soffits, and if there ever happens to be any moisture that leaks through the roofing materials at any time in the future it can have the same effect. Because that wasn't done on this project, you might want to consider either caulking that entire seam between the roof sheeting and the fascia boards, or use a peel and stick flashing material at the bottom edge of the roof to lap over the face of the fascia a little bit, to prevent any water from getting behind the fascia. The way you cut the groove on the back of the fascia boards to insert the soffit material, makes it even more important that water has no chance to get behind the fascia, because the water will be trapped inside the soffits with no easy way out. If enough water got behind the fascia in a heavy rain, it could fill up enough to force water back inside the building. (P.S. Don't be tempted to just preinstall the roof drip edge metal to try to direct the water over the fascia, because if the top edge of the drip edge metal isn't sealed, the rain will run right under it and direct the water behind the fascia boards also.) Have a great day.
If they tape off the Zip board it'll help prevent that problem.
100% was thinking the same thing
I noticed that as well!
I did the soffit and Fascia on my old house; I tried to get all fancy with it and I used a hardy product for both the soffit and the Fascia. Granted this was 25 years ago and I'm sure they make a more appropriate product now, but at the time I cut a dado in my fascia. It was messy but I got it done OK.
The problems? Hardy Isn't waterproof! It's water resistant! It just doesn't rot like wood. It basically disintegrates and starts flaking to pieces.
The soffit material wasn't very structurally rigid or strong and tended to sag.
Additionally and why I concur with the above poster is some roofers are better than others! The roofers on that house didn't run the sheeting and shingles down quite far enough as a result the water flowed onto the Hardie fascia and it basically disintegrated. Granted it did take 15 years or so. But, the part that wasn't exposed to the water was in much better shape!
PVC? All the PVC I've ever used was brittle and broke easily. Especially after a few years of exposure.
I am actually replacing the facia and soffit in my current house right now and again I'm dealing with undoing or overcoming the shoddy workmanship of previous contractors and roofers.
Thing is. Now I'm just using WOOD! YEAH! Good ole reliable wood!
It may not be as exotic as some of those other materials, but it's inexpensive, easily available, and easy to work with. AND if it doesn't last very long I can easily knock it out and replace it!
Much less headaches! 👍
Another thing to consider: I've noticed on both my houses that when stripping off the old shingles it's not unusual for them to stick their shovel or tool up under the shingle and then pull down basically using the fascia as a fulcrum. This puts a lot of pressure on the fascia and they broke a lot of my fascia on the other house.
On my current house you can tell they'd done it at least a couple times because the fascia while not broken was pulled away from the rafters by 1/2" it so and because the sheeting hadn't been extended far enough, again the water was getting in behind the fascia, pooling and rotting the soffit.
Unfortunately, I'm just one guy! I can't reroof a house by myself and I'm getting too old anywayz!
So, sorry but after all that I'm just suggesting. When you build something, have a little consideration for the poor schmuck who gotta come in and work on it after you or try to anticipate what some inept contractor in the future might do with your creation down the road! 😮😊
they have a lot to learn but to each their own if they're happy then that's all that matters
I THINK THE LAST TIME WE DID A PITCHED SOFFIT...was 50 years ago. To this date, we always build level soffits with bread boxes. There are many reasons why they never build pitched soffits.
Same here, I don’t like the look at all of angled soffit. IMO it makes it look like amateur work. I like the look of bird boxes, and can also add lighting under.
Absolutely beautiful work. Dad's experience and attention to detail is a game changer.
@11:25 I would have clamped a board on the fence to act as a vertical featherboard. Pretty tough to keep it tight when it's that long and working with a jobsite saw. And the fact that 3 guys built all of the garage is mind bending! Kudos to StudPack!
Hansangb, not knocking Stud Pack as I toot my own horn. In 1986, my 60 y.o. father and I, 31 y.o., built my 3500 sq. ft. home alone. Except for the poured walls for the basement, and the cabinets. He and I did it all. From the day I cut the first tree for clearing to the day my wife, son and I move in was 10.5 months. And that was working afternoons when I got off work from my full time job at Pella Windows of GA. and all weekends. Concrete basement and garage floor, plumbing, brick chimney, hard cost stucco, electrical, waterproofing, septic tank and drain field, 120 long concrete driveway, framing , insulation, drywall, flooring, just to name some of it. We still live in the same house and the only repair so far has been HVAC and replaced the roof 2 years ago. I get it that Stud Pack has to take more time filming and editing, so like I said, not knocking them.
@@dallasarnold8615 Good for you! I'm sure you're proud to show it off. I've always dreamed of doing what you did, but it's just a dream. I don't have the place to do it. And by the time I get the hell out of NYC, I won't have anyone to build it with. So in the meantime, I'll do my woodworking out of a single car garage that barely fits my tablesaw. You make do what what you have, I suppose.
@@dallasarnold8615that’s pure beast mode right there. Kudos to you sir!
Three guys seems about right, unless you want to add a go-for. They also presented, filmed, and edited as they went of course. I'm not sure what more hands would have done. Pro framers could do with two.
@@jasontubbs2192 My dad was the power. He had a lot of experience that I did not. I was the brute force, THEN. He was a better man than me. I do not believe I could do the same with my own son now. He is older than I was, and I am older than my dad was.
Love what you guys are doing. Jordan, how lucky are you to have such a talented Dad. Cherish this time and experience. For the love of building, buy your Dad a new pair of work boots.
That fascia overlap would look better and not require a plug if you went the other way. Cut the side fascia to length, then on the gable end let the fascia board overlap and do the same routing trick. The benefit is that the front and rear (where people are looking) won't have a visible seam, plus you won't need the plugs.
Ang the gutter is going to cover a lot of the joint if you lap the gable over the eave fascias.
Came to say the same thing. They can still run the side fascia long and flush trim to the gable subfacia, then overlap the side fascia end with the gable fascia. Run that long too, if you want, and flush trim that too.
Really liked the slideshow Jordan, worked out really well. Awesome addition, worth the work.
I love the still shots around 29:00. It helps the viewer stay focused (especially since I watch all your videos at 1.5x 😀).
I like this guy. Don't always agree with his construction practice and he may not agree with mine but he's not afraid to try new things and admits when he screwed something up. We all screw things up. It's worth a shot to find out if something works. 👍
Pvc expands and contacts a lot.
I've used Azek pvc for years, and have never not left an expansion joint, unless it's 90° plus.
Hopefully you don't have any problems.
Looks great 👍
Good point. Bump
Rad's motion to reset the nailer reminded me a LOT of Terminator 2. Both Arnold's spinning reload of his shotgun during the motorcycle scene as well as Linda Hamilton's reloading of her shotgun in the metal plant scene. 😁
THANKYOU for the bar at the bottom of the screen during the sponsor spot. Much appreciated :)
I have to redo the fascia on my shed and now I know what to use, thank you Stud Pack Team.
Great job. Looks fantastic. I am concerned that you didn't leave room for expansion on your joints however. Installing that azek tight in cold weather will cause bulging and oil canning in the heat of the summer. You may have to address some issues with joints when July gets here. Hope it all works out for you.
yep
Man I have a grudge against rakes lol. Just some tips for future reference. They make a felt tip and spring loaded bit designed to set the screws the exact depth of the plugs. Azek makes 1x16 and 4x8 sheets you can rip for wide soffets. Also, if you're putting gutters, you always want your rake tails long to hide the ends of the gutters. That would've also hidden your dado cuts. Nice work fellas. Looking forward to the next one.
Let’s go. Really enjoy following the Stud Pack house build.
I've said it a few times: you guys do really nice work.
That scaffold has paid for itself 10x over. Great investment!
Thank you explaining all the pieces of the eaves and what they are. I kept getting them confused or just forgot what they were called. Ugh!!! Awesome video like always. Love you guys
man its telling on yourselves. this rip is 18.5 to 19+ 5/8 x 80". and then just saying hey here is where we couldv'e sprayed the end of the 3rd p trusses to orient them the same next time(to account for this warpage). and also the robotic "make it land on the ctr of the beam" and then realizing it should just go to the end of wall - that is priceless. thanx for making it always a teachable moment. awesome.
It's a rainy and very cold Saturday afternoon in the Bay Area today - fun to watch you guys work with sunshine and blue skies in Texas! I so appreciate Paul's details, and also that he steps back a bit to let the young guys get the crucial experience of doing the work! All the best to you!
Azek does make soffit boards in both solid and vented. For 24" soffit they do have panels that can be cut.
Awesome look! Thanks Paul, Jordan and Rad for taking us a long on this ride.
SWEET. Team Work makes the DREAM WORK!
I love your channel and have followed this Houston build from the beginning. You have taught me so much! Truly, thanks!
I do think that little plug thing you did to fill the end of the groove on the fascia board on the gable end was poorly executed. Rather than pop a little white Lexel in there to fill that void, you cut a poorly fitting plug of Azak, and when you drove it in it pushed the fascia board away AND split it! That part should never have left the editing room floor! It was not up to your normal high craftsmanship.
Very nice! For three guys to pull all of this off is pretty remarkable. One thing I noticed when putting up the fascia is there's a slight gap between the fascia and the roof sheet. Not the end of the world, but now you have to account for water breaching the gap, ESPECIALLY because you used unvented soffit - there's nowhere for the water to escape. So you might want to install some ZIP tape from the sheet over the edge of the fascia. Once the roof is complete, you won't see it, but it will definitely protect from water seeping behind the fascia on rainy days. A roof sheet overhang would have helped with this, but if you were going for a certain aesthetic choice for the roof line, it's fine. You just have to account for the impact of not having the overhang.
The work looks phenomenal. I like Jordan's willingness to get the best material he can afford, and not just ordering to budget - sometimes you have to spend a little extra to get the best material, the shell of the building is the most important part of the structure - and I love Paul's level of knowledge and experience to know how best to apply it all. Soffit and fascia looks fantastic. Just don't forget to seal it! Great job guys! 👍👍
For three guys with the level of detail you’ve done phenomenally well!!! Happy new year. Been waiting all year for this. 😮
@@pcatful For a first time DIY builder this is a massive job, especially when all 3 havent done this before and no home build only has 3 on a crew...and to do it at their level of detail is an even more massive job. Ridiculous comment. These people aren't you traditional corporate scammy mickey mouse builders
Happy New Year - and yes, I'm glad to see another upload. I was beginning to worry that you had run up against another hurdle on this project or something... but I'm glad to see you back at it. Thanks for sharing this Stud Pack Dream Build with us... oh, and you should maybe keep putting that wording in your titles - whatever it was. I know you had been planning this dream build for a long time before actually being able to get started on it - and I know that LOTS of people look for the "dream" build... or the "dream" shop... so... for whatever that is worth. Love the energy you have when you talk about this stuff.
Not going to lie... loved that still photo montage. Classic
I was excited when I saw the video from Stud Pack in my feed as I have been obsessively checking UA-cam daily for a Stud Pack video as it is one of my favorite channels on UA-cam.
Very nice attention to detail. Best soffit I’ve ever seen. You may want to consider putting some Zip System flashing tape on the roof and overlap it on to the Azek. Just enough so the drip edge will cover it and you will never see it. Will help keep any moisture and critters out. Love watching y’all. Best channel on UA-cam!!
I just did my trim in pvc. You really need a respirator cutting the pvc. The aerosolized plastic particles coming off my table saw are also terrible for your lungs.
When cutting the long boards like that I clamp a 4ft section of the saw guide instead of the feather because it keeps the pvc square to the fence over a longer area. The 18ft sections of pvc are so floppy they can bend on the short axis and your cut line walks.
The cortex screws driver bit has the felt tip and stop that lets you drive till you hit the stop is much nicer, perfect plug depth every time.
I really appreciate Jordans ability to brush minor mistakes off and adjust where needed. My fiance and I really enjoy watching these videos.
Hey Stud pack. I finally was able to watch your last video. Started watching your videos to get some help installing a backslash in our kitchen. Loved the videos and started watching them all from the beginning. You guys have grown so much since. Keep up the good work. Send my wife and I a shout out on your next video lol.
I love that you guys share with us your mistakes, and love your ingenuity in correcting them.
I really love that dado detail on the back of the facia board to except the soffit.
Rad has been such a great compliment to the original two man Stud Pack crew! He's got kind of a stuntman/Woody Harrelson vibe that fits in perfectly!
PVC is going to be a hassle with expansion and contraction in the Texas sun. I would highly recommend going Boral when you can as it does not have the expansion issues PVC does. PVC unlike wood expands both length and width. Boral cuts just like butter with wood blades as well; unlike the Hardy products. Also, PVC really needs to be painted. As it ages the pores tend to open up and it holds moisture which encourages mold growth.
Plus you can paint Boral as dark as you’d like.
Cool 😎 effect of the stills near the end!
If you have an opportunity and funds, I would advise using a radiant barrier and rockwool for insulation.
Almost the exact combination I did with my renovation in 2018. Hardie soffit with PVC fascia and oversized seamless gutters. Never have to worry about rot from the part of the house that sees probably the most rain and moisture.
That hardy board with the pvc looks fantastic
Both products were def the right choice. You'll never need to replace them due to rot or infestation. Good job! Looks good!
I love How the photo montage synced to the music
I saw responses concerning paint and the intricacies of bonding to the pvc to obtain the proper adhesive qualities.
TAR, TAR, TAR NEVER FAILS.😂😂
On the rest of your Azek use Christy’s White Hot. It works great to meld you pvc together. See if you can find the squeeze tube. You could also use it to plug your kerfs.
As far as the nail gun is concerned the spool on the gun adjust to the nail length. I think you have it adjusted for 3” nails.
Nice detail Paul. KUTGW!
Great start to the New Year! Looks great, and you three are working like a well oiled machine these days. Jordan, your production skills are top notch. Love switching it up with the still photo montage! Always innovating and keeping things fresh Well done!
First, really awesome that you are working together as a father/son team. What a fantastic opportunity for making memories. The AZEK products are great but they really show a lot of dirt and discoloring over time especially anywhere you have a joint, cut edge, or caulk. I know you said you are going to paint the soffits, but I hope you are going to paint the AZEK facia and edges as well I find most people never do that extra step and it is so worth it. FYI, if you use Royal Celect Frost trim boards in the future it comes already painted but does require more planning since it usually is not a stock product in most supply places. Overall, the project is really coming out nice.
You guys got good with that scaffolding fast and easy. That is the best purchase you fuys made starting out!!!
For the trusses. I guess you could flip it on the ground then when you turn them around in place, they’ll be facing the same direction again.
18:25 Just FYI for that angle measuring tool you're using. you can twist the center of the black to lock it into place. or if you want before you take the measurement, lock it down so it's harder to move. you can still get your angle but it really holds it in place.
And another tip from a carpenter. If you know the pitch of your roof you don't need angle finders for that stuff. If you framed your roof at 31 degrees you would need a 31 degree cut on your miter saw to make anything plumb.
@@kimmi929 yeah, I think the reason why they were doing this was just to make sure that that angle is perfect since it's going to be visible.. But that also goes to one of my other comments which was you should have used that front gable facia covered over top of the side fascia..
I agree. Gable end first. If you want the angle perfect, you get the board up there and scribe it. Removes any errors in angle finder or saw adjustment.
I used Azek on my house a few years ago. No need to paint it if you want it white. I used Cortex screws that came with a bit that has a felt bumper built in that gave you the correct depth for the screws.
Excellent video guys! A happy and prosperous New Years to you and the gang too!
Having worked with thousands of feet of Azek, and been featured in the Handyman magazine with the Azek Inspires series, I would have done exactly what you guys did, great design. In the future, when you have scarf/miter joints, use the Azek PVC glue for joining the pieces. I have no clue what it's made out of, it looks like water, but it does not break. The PVC will fail before the joints.
Also, when it comes time to paint the PVC, buzz the surface with some 220, and the paint will stick forever! Another suggestion, when you need to caulk the PVC, use the SikaFlex 1a caulk. Totally waterproof and will flew and last a lifetime.
Good luck on the next steps guys!!
Does the Azek come with the dado for the soffit or does it need to be cut?
I put Azek up for fascia in Chicago. Must be 10 years now. The board cost me almost as much as he high end vinyl siding for the whole house! Shiplapped the joint. I also knew, since it is a vinyl product, it would have something like a half inch expansion between winter and summer at 12 ft. Thus the shiplap as opposed to the 45/scarf,.a half inch gap is pretty visible, especially if you view lines up with the joint. I didn't see your scarf joints, but in the winter you need to gap the joint. Best to install in the heat of summer and then you can butt the joint together. Same goes for the corner overlaps. They don't carry those Azek screws in Home Depot (which used to stock Azek). GRK general purpose construction 2 inch works great with silicone white paintable sealant (attracts less dust) as a plug.
You guys kill me with the amount of times you put that scaffolding up😅 just side a whole side and be fine with it!
Love the videos, happy new year.
Appreciate the content, not only the project but how you explain the process to make this a learning experience. Thanks.
Lookin nice! Make your dad wear the mask when he is using the router on the PVC too!
Love your videos if your painting the pvc black light sand plus INSL-X Aqua Lock black primer is the way to go
Wood can survive in Houston, it just requires proper wood species selection for rot resistance, and consideration of ventilation and drainage, so you don't trap moisture (either rain or condensation), and constant diligence on maintaining the sealing and coating, i.e. yearly check and repair of caulked joints, and repaint when necessary. That'll be 3-8 years, depending on the quality of paint and prep work, as well as sun exposure. I went a little long (10 years), and the only bits I needed to replace were the bottom run of 8" T&G on two sides off my garage, since the foundation sunk and those sides were in ground contact. Actually, that's why I was late to repaint: was getting the foundation fixed, first. :/ Ok, so it's a lot of work. But it can be done!
Trust me, you want to add a backing board for the TV. You don't want to limit your options on mounts. I work in home theater installation and have ran into way too many brand new homes that we ended up having to mount to a center stud and toggle the edges. Just do it and save the hassle.
Now, don't forget to add two brush plates/boxes with a larger conduit to pass your HDMI cables from your tv down to whatever entertainment center you choose. This will really give a minimal look and also once again save tons of headaches. You don't want cables hanging everywhere and running cables through insulation is no fun.
I would be glad to answer any questions on the AV side [Speakers, Wiring, ECT]. Sonos has some great simple whole home audio products that would really make this space pop.
P.S. I would lower the TV box down around a foot or two. You want your livingroom tv to be centered at eye level. On the other hand this can conflict with furniture, so you have may have to mount it higher than what is considered "ideal". At the end of the day its your space so don't get discouraged by the "TV TOO HIGH" crowd.
When cutting or shaping Azek or PVC spray yourself and table saw with anti static spray .
I was going to ask if Hardie needed to be gapped between panels but I looked it up instead. :) I figured I'd share what I found in case any other commenters are curious. Hardie says to use "moderate contact" between panels OR you can gap them and caulk them.
Beautiful details gentlemen.
U guys r just amazing. Love all the details u guys not only do but explain and teach. God bless you all
Been waiting for another video from Studpack. I am learning a lot just watching them.
Eaves and overhangs do serve a purpose in your build. Cosmetic and more importantly, helps keep water shed away from the foundation.
Exterior trim on my last build I used that stuff. Never painted it. 14 years later looks the same as install except that it shrunk just a bit.
That type of toilet would work on 2x4 framing?
I just love the way you guys explain the process
Thanks guys
Glad Paul won the battle, I like that groove too!
Great work y’all! That gun flick after every nail would kill me though!
Happy to see you back. Let's get the job done.
you need a top down feather board on your fence to run those long dados. w/ PVC board you can use plumbers glue for tight and sealed Joints- but use fasteners too. Also please tell Rad to send me Blood pressure meds, I need them every time I watch him on a scaffold.
Love that PVC trim. I use it when ever I can.
Great details! I've saved this video for when I do my eaves in a few months. Would love to see details for how you will do your roofing material and keep your attic dry, and details on how you will insulate your attic and handle vapor. Great jobs guys!
Yay! So happy to see another video!
I really like the dado in the facia board to hide the edge of the soffit material.
Those eaves look great! The smooth surface will be easier to clean than textured.
I'm looking forward to seeing the next video.
Really enjoyed the video. I wish you guys would have mitered that fascia at the gable ends instead of but joints. That would have been a nice video with the compound miter.
Looks unreal gang!!! It’s all getting tied together!
so glad to see you making progress again, nice fascia & soffit details
Hey Stud Pack. I’m give you a crazy suggestion. Buy an used boom lift to do siding on garage building, and then use it for the main house. After you are done sell it. It will save you time on setting up scaffolding.
Good decision on the thickness of the dado: Dissimilar materials (Vinyl, cement board) will expand and contract at different rates at different temperatures. You don't want that little vinyl tab breaking off because of contraction rates.
I really like the PVC board for exterior trimming. 👍
The nail gun might be jamming because the depth tray in the coil holder isn’t set properly. Basically, in the coil holder the floor of it can raise and lower based on the length of nails so it will feed to the barrel of the gun in the correct plane.
Came looking for this: figured there was some adjustment that wasn't set right, just not familiar with the tool enough myself to know what it was.
HAPPY NEW YEAR STUDPACK! Another great video!
I just love how he's air-racking the nail gun 🤣
2:50 You can tell who's been busy working. Paul is all dusty while Jordan is clean & crispy.
You’re a rockstar Paul! You make the channel.
I use the same material for my snake racks. I use the half inch. I used to use melamine and that was not only heavy but would sag. This is much better. Water and mold resistant. It’s amazing.
Diablo has the best blades for cutting any Hardie or cement fiberboard material. Those blades lasted the longest and gave the best cuts. Pricey, but when one blade does a few jobs versus other brands needing multiple blades on one job, worth the price. Good call Stud Pack!
Not sure if you’re finished with all your fiber cement work or not, but you should check out the fiber cement shears that are out there. They look just like metal shears, there is zero dust and I personally think it’s faster, especially on rip cuts.
"Its about to rain"
Rad: *leaps onto potentially slick surface*
Absolute mad lad
I used a pvc soffit under a deck on a deck i did last spring. We also ran the trex deck waterproofing so we could have a soffit and lights with a ceiling fan. Created a really nice useable space under the deck.
Soffit and Fascia looks great
StudPack, you should take that old saw blade and have it prime/paint your logo on it, it be a cool decoration for when your done.
Happy New Year Stud Pack ! Great work as usual. Just like everybody else, I would have done some of it differently. I would have "boxed" (as we call it here ) the eaves. That is running the soffit level, as opposed to matching the roof slope. Also, I prefer to have the rake fascia overlap the side, so that joint looks cleaner from the end where is most often viewed. I think you guys are going to regret not venting the roof system. We will see in a several years, yea or nay. For those that may not have noticed, on the rake fascia, that mitered joint should be ( as it appears to be in the video ) with the long point of the joint pointing down. It looks cleaner from the ground to do it the other way. But this ensures that any rain /moisture runs off to the outside.
I absolutely fall more and more in love with this channel with each passing video. I love the time and precision that goes into each and every detail on the build. You guys rock and i look forward to MANY more of your videos!
What do you do about security .all your stuff in the bottom of the house? No garage doors.
Ya know, I told my brother about your channel, and he said "So, you're watching This Old House?" to which I laughed. But I'm glad the tradition carries on. Happy new year!