How to Master SLAB Climbing
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- Опубліковано 4 сер 2024
- Love it or hate it, slab climbing is part of being a well rounded climber. Learning good slab technique and being comfortable with its committing nature is essential for many climbers. Even if your projects don't require slab moves, you'll learn important movement skills from balance, momentum and subtle footwork. In this episode coach @hadley_joshua covers the mechanics of common slab techniques such as smearing, centre of balance and unique moves such as palming and using heels to rest! Coach @jenwood435 then runs us through 3 sessions to put your skills to the test and build all important slab strength. These include; Commitment, Repeaters and lower body strength exercises. It's important to remember that even if you have limited slab terrain to train on indoors you can get creative with eliminating holds, one handed climbing and no-handed climbing.
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I actually really like slab climbing, but sliding off a hold and narrowly missing having your face hit a bunch of volumes on the way down is terrifying
This is why I hate slab and generally stick to verticals and overhangs!
@@tacticalchunder1207 you sound like a bad clkmber
Yes you will hit your face sometimes but it doesn’t hurt much. Have fun climbing!!
Or smash your sack on a volume. Missed by an inch the other week!
I get a big egg in my shin for hit a volumen when i fall, that's why I'm looking for vídeos like that 😂
I love slab because it has such a fine margin of error. Bend a knee a little too far, hesitate a little too long, be a little too careless with an arm and BAM you're off balance and tipping and that's it.
Taking slabs slowly and being aware of every extremity of your body to ensure nothing's out of place is a great feeling.
Definitely! I love the feeling of being in that point between progressing and falling and figuring out the tiny little changes you need to to stay on one side or the other, it's my favourite type of climbing by far for the awareness it demands :)
Been really enjoying the fundamentals series. It's really broadened out the exercies I do, and I definitely feel more balanced because of them. Thanks and keep the great content coming!
I used to hate slab climbing and couldn't understand the appeal, but I've learnt to appreciate the little nuances involved. Thanks for this wonderful video I've picked up few more!
Would love a video covering more of the nuances of slab climbing and some of the more subtle movements. So much to learn!
I'm trying to break into a new grade at my gym with a new slab set yesterday, so this couldn't be better timing. Thanks!
I love slabs! As Magnus says...on slabs we are all equal! :D
Although some people are more equal than others on slab ;)
Great advice, talk about a safe fun way to climb slabs, TY - Keep on being safe and technical, best tips and advancements I've seen.
Best climbing channel on UA-cam! 🙌🏼
I love slabs. Scary at the time, but the rush I get after I send them is better than any other style for me.
I do love a cheeky slab session.probably climb 2grades higher on slab.
Sorry if you already have one and I missed it, but I'd love to a video specifically on developing confidence in foot placement on volumes from very basic to coordinated moves, from gentle to steep angles. I have been looking on youtube and cannot find one that talks about this specific subject and approach to training progression. I appreciate a lot of the principles in this video apply, but would be nice to see it in volume specific scenario.
I do like 3 minute stretches in the split variations before climbing. I get so much more flexible. You dont have to set an artificial limit of 60 seconds or so for stretches. Long stretches are great.
Can someone send me a link to the sitting calves strech plsssssss
I honestly have NEVER understood the hate for slab climbing
I love slab climbing, but I do get the hate for it. It requires a lot of balance, body awareness, and patience, which probably isn't the most exciting form of climbing (especially for dyno and campus bros lol). Also, sliding off a slab climb is terrifying; slab is like a human cheese grater.
I spent 8 years climbing at a time when slabs did not exist at all in here. I’m back after 8 more years away from walls and now 90% of the walls I go to are slabs haha. I’m starting to like it but I was super disappointed at first
People hate slab b/c they hate what they aren’t good at. Most gyms focus on overhang, not saying that there isn’t any slab, but there is a lot more overhang.
Also rope climbing slab is a lot scarier, you are more guaranteed to come away injured when falling.
All of this and old school places like Yosemite and J-tree have very heady and scary slab climbs.
I have learned to really appreciate them, but it took some time.
For folks with really poor ankle mobility, you stand off an edge and do hyper range of motion calf raises or use weights in your hands or on your knees kneeling as shown above.
Another tip is to wear pants when slab climbing. When you slip you usually end up getting a long sand paper zipper on your shins since the volumes stick out further than most holds.
I love the tenuous feeling of pulling off a move while slab climbing. It feels like you're cheating gravity.
Thanks for the Video. Which shoe from scarpa you wear?
We were using Unparalleled TN Pro and Lyra in this video. Both very good for smearing and slabs
I do LOVE slabs! You are powered out from that overhang? Go to the slab, you can continue for hours! You do not have the pulling power at all for those hard climbs? Why use the hands at all -- Slabs have it for you! The only downside is that on very small footholds, the big toe tends to lament a bit (much).
Overhang/vertical max. grade: 7a
Slab max. grade: 7b
Nobody asked your grade classic beta sprayer
what shoes were those at the start? the ones you said were good for smearing?
Looks like an unparalleled? Not sure
I often forget to keep the heel down when moving off and onto the next hold.
I dont think this is as applicable as you're wanting.
I’ll be honest, at nearly 40 now (after having a rock climbing break for over a decade) and at 6ft 3, I looked at slabs and thought ‘nope’, not a chance, but had a few sessions and slowly getting it
Newer climber here.
How much of this also comes down to shoes?
I have worn a pair of Mad Rock Drifters for several months and I just seem to slip off volumes every time. I've tried all of the "trust your footing" and bearing down on them, but I always seem to slip. I've watched many slab/smear/volume videos and mimick what is being taught, but there are days when I seen to slip routinely.
I've come to brush off my shoes before every climb, as I noticed they accumulated chalk, which I think caused more slips, but I still slip often. When I slip, my soles appear to be wet, as if someone spit on them, even though there's no liquids around.
I'm looking to get a pair of the Scarpa Veloces, as they supposedly have much softer rubber, but I was just curious if it's entirely user error, or if the shoes had a lot to do with it.
Hi Johnny, good question. Shoes make a big difference. If you watch international competition climbers (IFSC) you may notice many climbers bring 2 pairs of shoes or swap them for slab climbs. Generally softer shoes are best for indoors on bigger slopey holds and volumes. However small screw on holds might need stiffer shoes. It's definitely worth experimenting.
@@LatticeTraining Thanks for the reply and info.
Cheers!
Johnny, On the harder slabs I'd say v5 and up, your shoes are going to make a huge difference if you have poor performing thin shoes it will still work but its gonna HURT. Versus if you get some thicker shoes with proper edges and rubber, the same climb, same style, same technique will hurt A LOT less which for a lot of people will impact their climbing efforts in a positive way.
@@FainTMako Thanks, mate.
As I said, I went with the Mad Rock Drifters, as I heard on the internet (so it must be true) that they were good beginner shoes; but I just can't seem to not slip with them in the bouldering gym.
I'm going to get the Veloces and see if the softer rubber makes a noticeable difference. At only 5 months climbing, but doing it 3 times a week and having improved greatly, it's hard for me to tell if it's user error or possibly the hard-soled toe box of the Drifters.
Thanks again.
@@Johnny_Cash_Flow If you're not slipping off slab, your setters didnt do it right bro. You're just going through the intended and expected results of the boulder. You're supposed to randomly fall off a lot more than other style climbs.
If I had to bet its going to feel A LOT better in the Veloces. They look like a much harder rubber and that really does make a difference on slab. V5 is hard to tell man, On slab you can do a lot of stuff that puts unnecessary weight on a small spot on your foot. Those things can "pump" your feet out in unexpected ways.
I love slab climbing it’s my favorite form of climbing I’d way rather be on a slab than a overhang
Will gyms have slab “walls” or am I just looking for steeper/balancing type climbs? My gym has a “balance” wall but it’s all vertical. Been indoor climbing for a bit, but something about slab calls to me.
The vertical wall is probably slab. To clarify: you can have vertical climbs that are not slabs. So not all climbs on a vertical wall are "slab". BUT I honestly dont think you can make a "slab" on any sort of overhang.
Slab is my best and easiest to climb style, I will say that this video is on point and will DEFINITELY help you on slab unless you are up near the expert or elite levels.
Let me add. #1 learn to get more from small footholds. You really need to train your mind to accept climbing on smaller holds, bad dual tex holds. Usually the harder slabs will force you to walk on terrible tiny dual tex upside down holds. You gotta be confident in your feet and it REALLY helps to be able to get extra height when standing up on the bad feet. It will seem impossible at first but I think its just a foot strength thing tbh.
I actually kinda like slab, but I'm just shit scared of hitting my chin against the wall.
you will not hit your chin on slab indoors unless the angle is less than 10 degrees or the setters mess up.
Step one buy La Sportiva Futuras
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Anyone else find drills to be close to useless? just climbing a big varierty of problems will bring all of this since you won't have a choice anyway if you want to finish them.
Hi Alex, it depends what you mean by 'drills'. In the old senses drills are quite outdated. They soon become stale and don't help much with skill acquisition in a highly variable sport. However practice of any skill/movement needs to be deliberate and with intent for better learning. So when we say drill we don't suggest doing repetitive tasks, but rather employ constraints led approach where the environment is dynamic and the athlete must use perception-action coupling to learn new skills, that means constantly changing tasks which requires problem solving. We could suggest 'just climbing' does this but we tend to see climbers bias preferred movement and styles which limits learning from new environments. Specific movement session help focus our training if we are serious about ironing out weaknesses.
@@LatticeTraining Thank you for this very detailed answer!
Slabs are so bad for commitment issues lmao
slab indoors vs outdoors is not even similar
lol yes it is. If anything, slab outside is easier than indoors because slab outside is literally 90% just moving slow and accurate lol.