nice work! To increase light output I used a condenser lens in combination with a light collector made out of 4 mirrors. By this you can get bright corners and an overall increased light output. You can easily cut the mirrors with a glass cutter (plenty of videos on youtube on how to cut glas). For the LCD I recommend using an old smartphone as it is cheap and with android you can easily use youtube, netflix, etc. To controll the phone you can either use a bluetooth keybord and mouse or just connect another phone with teamviewer or a similar app. For the projection lens you can use diffent type of lenses. For me an projection lens of an Episcope worked great.
For the LCD panel, I really wanted HDMI input for some reason, probably for the cool factor. Looking back on it, since these LCD panels with control boards only accept HDMI input from computers, I should’ve probably gotten a used LG G3 for about $60 or just the standalone screen (1440p) and used that. It would’ve shaved off some of the cost and also the need for a computer with the asterisk of needing a mouse and keyboard. Just out of curiosity, how much time and money did the light collector take to make?
@@justabit9070 The collector is made out of a standard mirror from hardware store (around 10€) and a simple glas cutter (5-10€) is used. so its pretty cheap. Cutting glas/mirror needs some practice so I recommend to practice on an old glas or mirror.
Hi @JustaBit I'm yet to start building mine (working out some changes I'd like to make for a ceiling-mounted projector, so no 45deg mirror, but will need to use lens-shift of -50% (actually done through lcd-panel shift to keep the led and lenses in a line), so a complete image is projected off-centre from the lens-line without key-stoning). One thing I picked up from Matt's build, was his cooling-system relies on negative pressure throughout the "tower", this means the side-panels must be airtight except the intakes at the top. And your build looks like it isn't airtight (I could see quite a bit of light leaking at 28:15)-> the heatsink-fans are drawing air from those gaps as well and thus pull less air along the lcd-panel
Hi, thanks for the comment. That’s an interesting idea, using I’m assuming a tilt-shift lens? You could also avoid the keystone effect by making the second fresnel lens “able to tilt” on the y axis which would allow you to be off center from the wall a bit. Also, I know I have a BUNCH of light leakage, and later I covered most of that with electrical tape and vinyl wrap (LOL).
@@justabit9070 Don't think I need a tilt-feature, as long as I can keep the planes (lcd & lenses) parallel it won't create keystone-effects. But will need to shift the lens with regards to the lcd. I'm figuring a large format lens with an image-circle large enough to capture the whole lcd-panel when its long-edge is positioned along the centerline of the image-circle (large-format targeting a 5x7" sensor will do, a 4x5" target is too small for a 5.5" diag lcd). No need for complicated lens-architecture, as I don't need to be able to adjust the positioning once the projector is ceiling-mounted at the right throwing-distance. I may need to look at wide angle lens though to make it a short-throw projector because I don't have too much room to position it far back (a ceiling-fan to deal with). So, I'm settling on finding a 5x7 large format wide angle lens with a focal length somewhere between 100 - 150mm and a fresnel-pair with compatible focal lengths. How hard can that be? LOL Other considerations I'm going through is the LED power - I'd like a reasonably bright image, so looking at possibly a 200W LED and significantly stronger cooling architecture. Here I found this product: www.knightoptical.com/stock/default/filters/heat-control-filters/hot-mirrors.html which may help protecting the lcd from any infrared coming from the LED (although that is very small compared to the visible light-output, a small percentage of a large number may still be an amount to worry about, further research needed.....)
Dag Marco, Leuk dat ik zoveel mensen tref die dit ook interessant vinden. Ik ben ook kleine projector aan het bouwen. Ik maak het met een kleine led bouwlamp van 6000k. Succes met bouwen! Wie weet kunnen we nog ervaringen delen. Groeten, Robin
I notice both you and Matt used the 100w 6000LM LED, I currently use an LED projector with 2400LM output. What's the lumen output of your projector? After the LCD and lenses? Mine works okayish during midday with the sun out, I have blackout curtains in my living room but have generic white blinds in my dinning area which gives a lot of color washout on my screen. I'm hoping the 6000LM LED would fix a little bit of the color wash (I know it won't fix it completely), but hopefully it will be about twice as bright as my current projector setup. My other though was, if the 6000lm LED yall used doesn't put out the light I need it to, I was thinking about going to the 400W LED from YUJILEDs with a lumen output of 26,000LM. I know with this I will have to buy a far larger full frame lense but that's something I'm willing to deal with.
How did you remove the backlight from the lcd display? I ordered a 2k lcd screen from ebay and it has like some kind of metal plate attached to it from behind which I cannot seem to separate
The backlight of my LCD panel was easy to separate. However, if the back isn’t coming off easily, then use a hair dryer or heat gun on low to weaken the adhesive. After that, all you need to do is remove all the fresnel layers and diffusion layers until you reach the polarizing layer. Don’t remove that since then you won’t be able to get an image at all.
It's really cool to see somebody putting his builds to the test, but just one bit of advice, I would leave the captions on the screen a little bit longer I had a hard time reading them before they disappeared.
One more question: why do you need a voltage step down board for the lcd panel? Wouldn't it be possible to just power it up by connecting it to a laptop via a USB cable?
@Mostafa Habibi that is a possibility but I wanted everything to be as internally sustained as possible. Then I would need to have a USB cable ready every time I wanted to use it. Good question!
Well done looks almost as good as Matt's. (From diy perks) Loved the vid you were excellent at explain what you were doing as Well.keep up the good work!☺
Yes actually. With the LCD panel I used and most out there, you can’t, but there are some on Aliexpress that say they support TV Boxes, and some people say that these work with anything (Roku sticks, AVR, etc).
@@justabit9070 Can you use a product like this with the build: www.amazon.co.uk/AmazonBasics-Audio-Stereo-Extractor-Converter/dp/B07KRWYN4R/ref=sr_1_3?crid=8O89P5FHIVN5&dchild=1&keywords=audio+extractor+converter&qid=1625267603&s=electronics&sprefix=audio+extract%2Celectronics%2C155&sr=1-3 to get a 4k Apple TV working with any 4k LCD displays that aren't compatible. It also gives you an option to have your own audio output. (I haven't tested it but I am attempting to make this projector myself and would like your advice)
I can’t say for sure that it’ll work because I haven’t tested it, but I would be wary of these since the HDMI signal is probably just passed through (again, I can’t be sure of this). You could buy it, see if it works, and if it doesn’t, Amazon’s return policy is pretty good, or you could keep it for other devices. If it works though, your biggest problem would just be figuring out where to mount it inside the chassis inconspicuously. There seem to be a lot of those LCD panels on Aliexpress that seem to be compatible with “TV boxes” after Matt posted the projector video if you’re willing to pick up one of those.
@@AnkitSharma-bi7gq it stopped. I could not get the angle of the mirror right, zo the immage was kind of blurry. Also the brightnes was a problem. The amount of Light was too low.
There’s kind of a bypass. I mentioned in the video that since it can only connect to a computer, you could turn on Bluetooth and connect wirelessly to an AVR for surround sound or just to a regular set of speakers. Also, if the computer has an audio jack, then you could use that instead.
Some aliexpress seller will sell the driver board with 50 and 60 Hrz support so you will be able to connect to any device except they dont support scaling.
Dear JustaBit, could you please tell me what would be the maximum image size, if the projector could only be placed 2,3m apart from the fabric projection screen? You would do me a great favour! Thank you in advance! Faithfully, Philip
At about 3 meters away from the projection screen, in my case the projected image was about 3 meters diagonal. You can adjust this by moving the projection lens up and down. Also, you probably already know this, but keep in mind the larger you make your image by moving it back and adjusting the lenses, the less bright it’ll be because you’re spreading the light across a larger surface area. Hope that helps.
Cool, I'm building it too, but from the original video, I totally missed out on the step down (only had step ups). Where I could use some help is with the wiring and connecting multiple devices (led 36V, fans 12V and then lcd at 5 volt) on a single power supply (120W)- and the step up, step down converters (2x) in between. Anyone?
@jobson88 I can help with the wiring, but first off, I don't think that a 120-watt power supply is enough. I mean, if you add the power consumption of all the components, you're just brushing up against the 120-watt limit. This will greatly reduce the efficiency of your brick and will mean that the PSU will be drawing a lot more than 120 watts TO provide the demanded power. Furthermore, even my 150-watt power supply got SUPER hot under load so we can safely assume the same will happen with a lesser wattage 120-watt PSU which will reduce the lifespan of your brick. So you might want to get a 150-watt brick or higher making sure that the voltage isn't too high and the amperage is too low (you'll need about 7 amps depending on your situation). With that soliloquy out of the way (LOL😅), you should probably start off with testing the components and circuitry BEFORE mounting it inside the chassis. So you can do this by first soldering (or just temporarily sticking) thicker 16-gauge wire to the power socket. The other end of these wires will be the "points" at which you will connect the step-ups/step-downs. Then, I would twist together a 20 gauge wire to the "points" which will go the step-up that will power the LED. Solder or temporarily connect those wires to the step-up and then from there, solder wires to the LED and put the LED on the heatsink. After that, go through the process of powering the LED (lowering the voltage, gradually increasing it, and capping the amp-draw), and the main section has been powered! Next, you can solder or temporarily stick another pair of 20 gauge wires to the "points" which can be connected to a step-down board that's set to 12 volts. Connect the fans to the step-down board and your cooling system is powered! Lastly, connect another pair of wires to the "points" and connect those to a step-down board set to 5 volts (or maybe 12 volts depending on the driver board). On the other side of the step-down, connect a spliced Micro-USB cable and plug that into the driver board. Now your display has been powered! Then it's just a case of resoldering the joints but inside the chassis. Hope that helps!
@@justabit9070Superb! Many many thanks. I'll draw a scheme and check back with you if I've understood correctly. My idea was that de the led draws a 100W, 2 fans 8 Watts and the screen about 2,5-5watts staying well within the limit op 120Watts. But the step/up step downs generate a little heat, so somthing is lost. Also, I'm also still considering powering the screen through usb (double hook-up to the laptop: hdmi + 1 usb, also protecting the screen). Anyway, your advice helps a lot, showing me I should make the "points' (power bridge I'd say :) and connect them al to it (and not in series or something). Ugh I'm so bad at electronics , basic schooling was +30 years ago. This project forces me to brush up! :)
I was actually considering moving the components into a less vertical wood enclosure, and the only thing to watch out for is wood particles going into the components (especially the LED). This wouldn’t be an issue if you didn’t need fans for the system, but unfortunately, you do, otherwise the LED and LCD panel will overheat. So yeah, using a wood that doesn’t rot and warp along with sealing it should be enough to keep it safe. Plastic is another viable alternative if wood just isn’t strong and durable enough.
@DIY Raja unfortunately the large format lens I bought off Amazon was the last one of its kind. I can provide you with this link, but you might want to dig deeper if you want to get a better deal. www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=large+format+lens&Focal%2520Length=135mm&_dcat=3323&_sop=15
did you ever find a way around having to use a computer to display an image. is there a way of hooking up somthing like a fire stick or an xbox directly to the lcd?
I’ve tried hooking up a Roku stick as well as a Roku stick through an AVR but nada. I haven’t tried an Xbox yet though... it’s a little weird that they don’t accept other HDMI inputs but I think it has something to do with it not supporting HDCP.
Wouldn't it be easier to take a cheap 1080p projector ($70)and use a 4 K phone digitiser ? I know you'd lose the menus for keystone adjustment, but you could use the phone OS to play stuff.
Hi JustaBit, I am about the finish my projector too. Yet, I am not sure from where does the input voltage to power the fans come from, does it come from the output of the step-up voltage regulator that is powering the LED or does it come from the 19.5V power supply (Laptop charger)? I
Hi you need to connect the input of the fans to the power supply because if you connect your fans(which may be 12v or 24v) to the voltage regulator it will fry your step down regulator if it is not rated for the voltage of the led(which might be around 30 or 50v depending on the type of led you are using) or if you connect the fans with the step down regulator to the step up regulator use a step up regulator which is rated for at least your led wattage+fans wattage and a step down regulator which is rated for your led voltage,I recommend you use the power supply because it is the easiest thing to do.
I would say try using a regular case fan to see if that’ll work, and if it doesn’t, then maybe look at higher powered fans and more extravagant cooling solutions like maybe a transparent peltier element cooled by a transparent water block or something. I would also suggest other methods of capturing light with lower wattage LEDs like a concave mirror behind the LED and a condenser lens.
Amazing! I was looking for someone who made this build idea from Matt because I didn't want to pay for his pdf guide xd I have a couple of questions though: 1) Regarding the fresnel lenses, do their focal lengths have any influence on the size of the projected screen? Let's say I want a 2 meter by 2 meter (yes, SI units are the best) projected screen on my wall, do I have to buy a different set of fresnel lenses than someone who wants a different projected screen size? Or does the projected screen size only depend on the size of the lcd screen? 2) I was doing some research and I found the blog of some Korean guy who made like 3 or 4 projectors like this (maybe you also found this blog) . However, his build had way more steps and was far more complicated and expensive. He used what is called a condenser lens, which seemingly makes the light being uniformly emited over the screen. Is this the same thing as your second fresnel lens? Is there a difference between a condenser lens and a condenser fresnel lens (the condenser lens appears to be round I think while the condenser fresnel lens appears to be rectangular)? Do you recommend using a condenser lens to have more brightness? 3) One of the things you did differently from Matt was the extra fan for the lcd panel. Is there a reason why he didn't mention it, since obviously it did cause some trouble for your lcd screen? Also regarding this particular fan, how do the blades of the fan have to rotate? Does the air have to go from the outside to the inside, through the panel, all the way down to were the other fans blow them out? 4) What about the throwing distance of the projector? Is it possible to adjust the projected screen size without moving the projector (I live in a 3 meter by 3 meter room) ? Or does the focusing/pulley system provide for that (I have seen some diy projectors without a focusing system so what are the benefits of it) ? Sorry for the many questions, I am just so excited to build this and I don't want to fuck this up :D
Hello! The way I understand it, you can have many combinations of fresnel lenses. For example, a 90 mm focal length and 170 mm is a good pair(like in this build), and so is 120 and 185 provided that you have a projection lens with a focal length of about 200 mm. I honestly don’t have a very good understanding of optics, but there are some optimal combinations. One of the ways you can adjust the size of the projected image is to just move the projection lens up or down to bring it in focus or to use the focusing system. I moved the projection lens because that seemed to work better. As far as I’m aware, there is no way to adjust the throw in a convenient way but I haven’t experimented with moving the fresnel lenses around in my build. You CAN try putting your LCD panel in the middle of the fresnel lenses and see how that works out. And for a 2 meter image you’re probably gonna be 4 meters away from the wall. Regarding your second question, a condenser lens specifically is different from a fresnel lens, but I think sometimes they’re used interchangeably. In this case, a condenser lens could be placed on top of the LED since its a hemisphere. Honestly, this is one of the things I was planning on adding to it later on. It’s definitely worth a shot, but you might want to add more cooling for the LCD panel! Speaking of the LCD panel I’m not sure why Matt didn’t have any issues with his; maybe because phone screens are tougher than separate LCD panels? xD. Anyway, I had the fan blowing air in, and luckily it just goes with the air pressure if that makes sense. The negative air pressure from the fans on the heatsink would pull air in anyway, and this fan just helps with that. And finally, as I mentioned, I don’t know of a way of adjusting the throw, but you could try putting the LCD panel in between the fresnel lenses and messing around with the fresnel lenses. For example, you can add tilt control by making the second fresnel lens tiltable. Happy building!!!
In all, it costed several hundred USD. About 850 USD. It’s quite an expensive project, but if you have some of the parts and the tools, you could do it for cheaper.
@@geek4001 the threaded rods were about 15 USD if I remember correctly, and the 8 aluminum sheets costed about 32 USD(on eBay). I would suggest getting ALL your aluminum from a local metal cutting store since they can cut it for you and it’s generally cheaper.
Hey guys what do you think of using a commercial projector and replacing the LCD for a higher resolution one? Do you guys think it's possible? if so how?
Hey. First of all you need to focus your light source because a LED chip has a ~170 degree beam angle and you waste a lot of light. Second you may to change the led type to a smaller emitting area like an ygc 200ww this has a 13x14mm emitting area. You will get a lot sharper picture ✌️ you may need a radial fan to cool the lcd with the new light source but you will get a lot more light output and sharper image quality.
Thanks for the input man! I was actually planning on adding a condenser lens for the LED next, and maybe experiment with more powerful and smaller LEDs.
It’s actually really good unless you really pixel peep. Unfortunately, as I mentioned in the video, it’s really dim compared to a commercial one because of the amount of light the LCD panel blocks. But if don’t have any other light in your room it should be fine.
To speed up threading you can put your bolt or threaded rod in a chuck of a drill and hold the nut with wrench or pliers. Don't use bare hand. The threads can pinch or cut the skin with the nut. Yup you learn that lesson once 😂
Hey dude, you r make my day )). after watching Perks video, I dreamed about building my first diy projector, but I haven't space area for my DIY works&project (. questions: 1)does this project worst to make VS buying used fullhd 1080 fabric projector? (prices for average diy components vs used projector price used 2) I have one great idea for replace compatible light source like led/xenon and etc from automotive or other headlighting components for decreasing cost of DIY . thank a lot for this work . Regards!
@Ricardo Tozzi thank you. This projector is definitely more expensive than even a new 1080p projector, and much more expensive than a used 1080p projector. Commercial projectors will be brighter and more compatible. However, if you have a lot of the tools and some of the parts, then it might come out to be cheaper. If you add things like a condenser lens, a brighter LED, and a proper TV Box LCD panel, you’ve got a pretty compelling DIY project. Only question is: “Is it worth the time?” For me it is because I learned a lot and had fun but maybe not for others. Modifying a commercial projector sounds interesting because you could swap in a more powerful LED with a better cooling system and condenser lens. Very cool stuff!
On your point 2, i also thinking about that, because I can get 6500k led with 9000 lumens if I choose led projection lamps made for cars. But here is catch, car use two led projector, and that 9000 lumens are if you use both LEDs, single led have only 4500 lumens. That's why I'm also confused if car projector lights can work in it or not. Plus point for using car led, (1)projector is you get ready to fit kit with heat sink and power controller. You only need to add fan as your projector is not moving like car, so need active cooling. (2) so cheap that you can get at half price with power controller then other diy cob LEDs. Just plug and play.
@@kurjibhalsod3547 Thanks a lot for sharing your mind. You are made any diy construction with auto Led kits? I thought 4500 lumen is enough for certains and/or painted walls darkened room. my burned commercial projector lg ph150 had only 130 lumen! . this brightness was quite for watching videos in a simple room without special darkeness, for example on a white ceiling. so, i like your idea, and intersting of process.
@@ricardotozzi5440 not yet bro, still I'm gathering money and knowledge. But your reply give my idea little more bust and positivity to do something experiment.
Dear JustaBit,First Thank you very much the video !!!!!! The problem with PICTURE QUALITY LCD POLARIZING LAYER FILTERS THE IMAGE QUALITY !!!! I' Know because I'tried it 2 different Displays !!!!! I WISH YOU ALL THE BEST !!!!!!!!!!!!!!
My thinking was that a good air cooler would outperform a 120 mm AIO, but then I thought you could just get a 240 mm (or larger) AIO and route it to an outer chamber. Actually, my choice of air cooler could’ve been better because I could’ve chosen a smaller Fuma 2 or U12S or a dedicated LED cooler.
Prity fine I recomend you to use lens more bigger around 90 mm or 100 mm of diameter to have a better flat lighting so the corners do not be dark and have a really good image screen and have a grate enjoying and a grate experience and your audio system sounds with alot of cualety ();-) greeting from Guadalajara Jalisco Mexico (y) (b)
Even something as simple as a more powerful led would go MILES to improve this design. If you could get 300w of cob behind that thing it would likely be a massive improvement.
I was thinking of a 300 watt COB in there but so far I haven’t because of all the extra power needed but also how much heat the LCD panel can take because it was already having issues with a 100 watt LED. I think the biggest issue is light leakage and wastage so a tighter design along with a condenser lens would go a long way for the projector.
I would recommend not recording audio and video at the same time with a video like this. Record the footage then have a script for your audio that you add in post, it will make the audio quality better and you can be sure that what you're saying in the video is exactly how you want it.
o resultado final nao ficou bom ficou escuro e a imagem tava borrada e vc fez um trabalho perfeito mas gravou com celular embaixa resolucao e estragou tyudo
That wasn't Matt's idea, WE MADE THOSE PROJECTORS when he wasn't even born, I've been making stuff like that way before Internet, and that's one of our designs, we didn't use LED because it wasn't developed as of today's standards, we used 400watts Metal Halide bulbs... And a 17" laptop screen... Here's a tip for you, forget what Matt said, the size of the light source matters, and contributes to the sharpness, the smaller the led the sharper the projected image. That's why your projector looked all blurry and you chose a bad Objective lens. That's why your corners are so dim... The mirror absorbs light so if you put your projector horizontal and (without the need for a mirror) you get a brighter image. I could go on and on. And change the title of your video: "I remade Matt's video."
Here’s the one I used: www.amazon.com/Scythe-Ninja-CPU-Cooler-SCNJ-5000/dp/B079X3DBH8/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=scythe+ninja+5&qid=1627824009&sr=8-3
@Mr Minecraft I watched his video many times and I may have subconsciously said some things the way he said it in parts of the video, but I wasn’t intentionally trying to copy his words. Edit: this also took months to make the projector and edit the video, so I did put in a lot of work to get it made and uploaded. I've also tried to respond to all the comments to try and help people who have questions to be as helpful as possible.
10.11 time stamp. your writing instructions are too short timed. I literally have to pause video, go back to 10 second, and wait to appear instructions again and pause video again to read it fully. In your next videos please make written instructions stay langer on screen, because you got viewers from all around the globe and not all people are fast reader.
Hope you guys enjoyed the video; I made some changes during the build that I addressed by adding text.
Ok friend
nice work! To increase light output I used a condenser lens in combination with a light collector made out of 4 mirrors. By this you can get bright corners and an overall increased light output. You can easily cut the mirrors with a glass cutter (plenty of videos on youtube on how to cut glas). For the LCD I recommend using an old smartphone as it is cheap and with android you can easily use youtube, netflix, etc. To controll the phone you can either use a bluetooth keybord and mouse or just connect another phone with teamviewer or a similar app. For the projection lens you can use diffent type of lenses. For me an projection lens of an Episcope worked great.
For the LCD panel, I really wanted HDMI input for some reason, probably for the cool factor. Looking back on it, since these LCD panels with control boards only accept HDMI input from computers, I should’ve probably gotten a used LG G3 for about $60 or just the standalone screen (1440p) and used that. It would’ve shaved off some of the cost and also the need for a computer with the asterisk of needing a mouse and keyboard. Just out of curiosity, how much time and money did the light collector take to make?
@@justabit9070 The collector is made out of a standard mirror from hardware store (around 10€) and a simple glas cutter (5-10€) is used. so its pretty cheap. Cutting glas/mirror needs some practice so I recommend to practice on an old glas or mirror.
time less than 1hour btw. ;) its really simple
Amazing work, really liked all the details and tips
Thank you!
Hi @JustaBit I'm yet to start building mine (working out some changes I'd like to make for a ceiling-mounted projector, so no 45deg mirror, but will need to use lens-shift of -50% (actually done through lcd-panel shift to keep the led and lenses in a line), so a complete image is projected off-centre from the lens-line without key-stoning).
One thing I picked up from Matt's build, was his cooling-system relies on negative pressure throughout the "tower", this means the side-panels must be airtight except the intakes at the top. And your build looks like it isn't airtight (I could see quite a bit of light leaking at 28:15)-> the heatsink-fans are drawing air from those gaps as well and thus pull less air along the lcd-panel
Hi, thanks for the comment. That’s an interesting idea, using I’m assuming a tilt-shift lens? You could also avoid the keystone effect by making the second fresnel lens “able to tilt” on the y axis which would allow you to be off center from the wall a bit. Also, I know I have a BUNCH of light leakage, and later I covered most of that with electrical tape and vinyl wrap (LOL).
@@justabit9070 Don't think I need a tilt-feature, as long as I can keep the planes (lcd & lenses) parallel it won't create keystone-effects. But will need to shift the lens with regards to the lcd. I'm figuring a large format lens with an image-circle large enough to capture the whole lcd-panel when its long-edge is positioned along the centerline of the image-circle (large-format targeting a 5x7" sensor will do, a 4x5" target is too small for a 5.5" diag lcd). No need for complicated lens-architecture, as I don't need to be able to adjust the positioning once the projector is ceiling-mounted at the right throwing-distance. I may need to look at wide angle lens though to make it a short-throw projector because I don't have too much room to position it far back (a ceiling-fan to deal with).
So, I'm settling on finding a 5x7 large format wide angle lens with a focal length somewhere between 100 - 150mm and a fresnel-pair with compatible focal lengths. How hard can that be? LOL
Other considerations I'm going through is the LED power - I'd like a reasonably bright image, so looking at possibly a 200W LED and significantly stronger cooling architecture. Here I found this product: www.knightoptical.com/stock/default/filters/heat-control-filters/hot-mirrors.html which may help protecting the lcd from any infrared coming from the LED (although that is very small compared to the visible light-output, a small percentage of a large number may still be an amount to worry about, further research needed.....)
Dag Marco,
Leuk dat ik zoveel mensen tref die dit ook interessant vinden. Ik ben ook kleine projector aan het bouwen. Ik maak het met een kleine led bouwlamp van 6000k. Succes met bouwen! Wie weet kunnen we nog ervaringen delen. Groeten, Robin
I notice both you and Matt used the 100w 6000LM LED, I currently use an LED projector with 2400LM output. What's the lumen output of your projector? After the LCD and lenses? Mine works okayish during midday with the sun out, I have blackout curtains in my living room but have generic white blinds in my dinning area which gives a lot of color washout on my screen. I'm hoping the 6000LM LED would fix a little bit of the color wash (I know it won't fix it completely), but hopefully it will be about twice as bright as my current projector setup.
My other though was, if the 6000lm LED yall used doesn't put out the light I need it to, I was thinking about going to the 400W LED from YUJILEDs with a lumen output of 26,000LM. I know with this I will have to buy a far larger full frame lense but that's something I'm willing to deal with.
Nice video! It's good to see a real build of it!
What I love about this is that you made this all by yourself and explained it really nicely.
Nice job and keep more interesting videos coming😊.
@Manit Sareen will do :)
@Ramachandran Raja the screen size is 5.5 inches
How did you remove the backlight from the lcd display? I ordered a 2k lcd screen from ebay and it has like some kind of metal plate attached to it from behind which I cannot seem to separate
The backlight of my LCD panel was easy to separate. However, if the back isn’t coming off easily, then use a hair dryer or heat gun on low to weaken the adhesive. After that, all you need to do is remove all the fresnel layers and diffusion layers until you reach the polarizing layer. Don’t remove that since then you won’t be able to get an image at all.
LEGENDARY!!
Next Level Stuff bro!
🔥🔥🔥🔥
+Yash Bughani Thanks :)
It's really cool to see somebody putting his builds to the test, but just one bit of advice, I would leave the captions on the screen a little bit longer I had a hard time reading them before they disappeared.
It's not his fault. Try 0.75 0.5x video speed.
So I just got my DC boost converter and I’m spinning the screw but no matter what I do the voltage stays at 19.4V
Hmmm... can you give me the voltage and amperage of the power supply you’re using? Then I might be able to diagnose the problem
Nice! I want to try building this and laser cutting the sheet metal on my university's cutter.
@15:46 why second fresnel lens should have greather focal lenght than projection lens ?
EDIT: @20:11 you say opposite. lol.
One more question: why do you need a voltage step down board for the lcd panel? Wouldn't it be possible to just power it up by connecting it to a laptop via a USB cable?
@Mostafa Habibi that is a possibility but I wanted everything to be as internally sustained as possible. Then I would need to have a USB cable ready every time I wanted to use it. Good question!
Well done looks almost as good as Matt's. (From diy perks) Loved the vid you were excellent at explain what you were doing as Well.keep up the good work!☺
Nicon and canon camera lens mostly available for my country.. which camera lens use for projector ?? Pls reply me mam
Any large format lens with a focal length of about 135 mm should work fine. You could also try experimenting with an enlarger lens.
@09:38 why dont you put lcd between two fresnel lenses ?
That’s actually something I need to try…
@@justabit9070 let us know the result then
Great video, very helpful. Is there any way to hook up the lcd screen with a 4k fire stick or 4k Apple TV?
Yes actually. With the LCD panel I used and most out there, you can’t, but there are some on Aliexpress that say they support TV Boxes, and some people say that these work with anything (Roku sticks, AVR, etc).
@@justabit9070 Can you use a product like this with the build:
www.amazon.co.uk/AmazonBasics-Audio-Stereo-Extractor-Converter/dp/B07KRWYN4R/ref=sr_1_3?crid=8O89P5FHIVN5&dchild=1&keywords=audio+extractor+converter&qid=1625267603&s=electronics&sprefix=audio+extract%2Celectronics%2C155&sr=1-3
to get a 4k Apple TV working with any 4k LCD displays that aren't compatible. It also gives you an option to have your own audio output. (I haven't tested it but I am attempting to make this projector myself and would like your advice)
I can’t say for sure that it’ll work because I haven’t tested it, but I would be wary of these since the HDMI signal is probably just passed through (again, I can’t be sure of this). You could buy it, see if it works, and if it doesn’t, Amazon’s return policy is pretty good, or you could keep it for other devices. If it works though, your biggest problem would just be figuring out where to mount it inside the chassis inconspicuously.
There seem to be a lot of those LCD panels on Aliexpress that seem to be compatible with “TV boxes” after Matt posted the projector video if you’re willing to pick up one of those.
For power, it makes more sense to use an sfx psu or even atx. Its easier with multiple voltages and alot if headroom
So cool! i've starded today with building my own.
Would you mind to share the status of your project ?
@@AnkitSharma-bi7gq it stopped. I could not get the angle of the mirror right, zo the immage was kind of blurry. Also the brightnes was a problem. The amount of Light was too low.
Is there anything I can do to have the display connect to any HDMI device since I heard it will only connect to a computer. Or kinda bypass it
There’s kind of a bypass. I mentioned in the video that since it can only connect to a computer, you could turn on Bluetooth and connect wirelessly to an AVR for surround sound or just to a regular set of speakers. Also, if the computer has an audio jack, then you could use that instead.
Some aliexpress seller will sell the driver board with 50 and 60 Hrz support so you will be able to connect to any device except they dont support scaling.
Dear JustaBit,
could you please tell me what would be the maximum image size, if the projector could only be placed 2,3m apart from the fabric projection screen?
You would do me a great favour!
Thank you in advance!
Faithfully,
Philip
At about 3 meters away from the projection screen, in my case the projected image was about 3 meters diagonal. You can adjust this by moving the projection lens up and down. Also, you probably already know this, but keep in mind the larger you make your image by moving it back and adjusting the lenses, the less bright it’ll be because you’re spreading the light across a larger surface area. Hope that helps.
Cool, I'm building it too, but from the original video, I totally missed out on the step down (only had step ups). Where I could use some help is with the wiring and connecting multiple devices (led 36V, fans 12V and then lcd at 5 volt) on a single power supply (120W)- and the step up, step down converters (2x) in between. Anyone?
@jobson88 I can help with the wiring, but first off, I don't think that a 120-watt power supply is enough. I mean, if you add the power consumption of all the components, you're just brushing up against the 120-watt limit. This will greatly reduce the efficiency of your brick and will mean that the PSU will be drawing a lot more than 120 watts TO provide the demanded power. Furthermore, even my 150-watt power supply got SUPER hot under load so we can safely assume the same will happen with a lesser wattage 120-watt PSU which will reduce the lifespan of your brick. So you might want to get a 150-watt brick or higher making sure that the voltage isn't too high and the amperage is too low (you'll need about 7 amps depending on your situation).
With that soliloquy out of the way (LOL😅), you should probably start off with testing the components and circuitry BEFORE mounting it inside the chassis. So you can do this by first soldering (or just temporarily sticking) thicker 16-gauge wire to the power socket. The other end of these wires will be the "points" at which you will connect the step-ups/step-downs. Then, I would twist together a 20 gauge wire to the "points" which will go the step-up that will power the LED. Solder or temporarily connect those wires to the step-up and then from there, solder wires to the LED and put the LED on the heatsink. After that, go through the process of powering the LED (lowering the voltage, gradually increasing it, and capping the amp-draw), and the main section has been powered! Next, you can solder or temporarily stick another pair of 20 gauge wires to the "points" which can be connected to a step-down board that's set to 12 volts. Connect the fans to the step-down board and your cooling system is powered! Lastly, connect another pair of wires to the "points" and connect those to a step-down board set to 5 volts (or maybe 12 volts depending on the driver board). On the other side of the step-down, connect a spliced Micro-USB cable and plug that into the driver board. Now your display has been powered! Then it's just a case of resoldering the joints but inside the chassis.
Hope that helps!
@@justabit9070Superb! Many many thanks. I'll draw a scheme and check back with you if I've understood correctly. My idea was that de the led draws a 100W, 2 fans 8 Watts and the screen about 2,5-5watts staying well within the limit op 120Watts. But the step/up step downs generate a little heat, so somthing is lost. Also, I'm also still considering powering the screen through usb (double hook-up to the laptop: hdmi + 1 usb, also protecting the screen). Anyway, your advice helps a lot, showing me I should make the "points' (power bridge I'd say :) and connect them al to it (and not in series or something). Ugh I'm so bad at electronics , basic schooling was +30 years ago. This project forces me to brush up! :)
Do you think it would be possible to make the structure out of wood and not aluminium? I was wondering if it would cause heat issues or others
I was actually considering moving the components into a less vertical wood enclosure, and the only thing to watch out for is wood particles going into the components (especially the LED). This wouldn’t be an issue if you didn’t need fans for the system, but unfortunately, you do, otherwise the LED and LCD panel will overheat. So yeah, using a wood that doesn’t rot and warp along with sealing it should be enough to keep it safe. Plastic is another viable alternative if wood just isn’t strong and durable enough.
@@justabit9070 ok thanks
Hey any ideas how you’d be able to use this in a lit room?
Is the focus layer really necessary?
Your projector assembly which lens lens details full please
@DIY Raja unfortunately the large format lens I bought off Amazon was the last one of its kind. I can provide you with this link, but you might want to dig deeper if you want to get a better deal.
www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=large+format+lens&Focal%2520Length=135mm&_dcat=3323&_sop=15
Very very thank you so much reply
Your voice very very nice full clarity
@@diyraja1300 thank you
did you ever find a way around having to use a computer to display an image. is there a way of hooking up somthing like a fire stick or an xbox directly to the lcd?
I’ve tried hooking up a Roku stick as well as a Roku stick through an AVR but nada. I haven’t tried an Xbox yet though... it’s a little weird that they don’t accept other HDMI inputs but I think it has something to do with it not supporting HDCP.
what about a raspberry pi?
@@DaumbFauckProduction since a Raspi is a computer, it should technically work, but I haven't tried it myself so I can't be absolutely sure.
hows the throw on it?
@justabit bro from where did you get the lens?
Wouldn't it be easier to take a cheap 1080p projector ($70)and use a 4 K phone digitiser ? I know you'd lose the menus for keystone adjustment, but you could use the phone OS to play stuff.
I'd watch that video
How is it holding up after a year or so?
Hi JustaBit, I am about the finish my projector too. Yet, I am not sure from where does the input voltage to power the fans come from, does it come from the output of the step-up voltage regulator that is powering the LED or does it come from the 19.5V power supply (Laptop charger)? I
Hi you need to connect the input of the fans to the power supply because if you connect your fans(which may be 12v or 24v) to the voltage regulator it will fry your step down regulator if it is not rated for the voltage of the led(which might be around 30 or 50v depending on the type of led you are using) or if you connect the fans with the step down regulator to the step up regulator use a step up regulator which is rated for at least your led wattage+fans wattage and a step down regulator which is rated for your led voltage,I recommend you use the power supply because it is the easiest thing to do.
Can you make a follow up video?
Hey! Awesome video! Does the size of the fresnel lens matter? Like is there a minimum size for both of them?
If I want a 300w led, how do I cool the LCD?
Because I want more brightness to justify building a projector instead of buying one
I would say try using a regular case fan to see if that’ll work, and if it doesn’t, then maybe look at higher powered fans and more extravagant cooling solutions like maybe a transparent peltier element cooled by a transparent water block or something. I would also suggest other methods of capturing light with lower wattage LEDs like a concave mirror behind the LED and a condenser lens.
Great video How much did it cost to buid it
@DOPS SIDE GAMING Thanks, it ended up costing just shy of 1000 USD; WAY more than I was expecting TBH.
Amazing! I was looking for someone who made this build idea from Matt because I didn't want to pay for his pdf guide xd I have a couple of questions though:
1) Regarding the fresnel lenses, do their focal lengths have any influence on the size of the projected screen? Let's say I want a 2 meter by 2 meter (yes, SI units are the best) projected screen on my wall, do I have to buy a different set of fresnel lenses than someone who wants a different projected screen size? Or does the projected screen size only depend on the size of the lcd screen?
2) I was doing some research and I found the blog of some Korean guy who made like 3 or 4 projectors like this (maybe you also found this blog) . However, his build had way more steps and was far more complicated and expensive. He used what is called a condenser lens, which seemingly makes the light being uniformly emited over the screen. Is this the same thing as your second fresnel lens? Is there a difference between a condenser lens and a condenser fresnel lens (the condenser lens appears to be round I think while the condenser fresnel lens appears to be rectangular)? Do you recommend using a condenser lens to have more brightness?
3) One of the things you did differently from Matt was the extra fan for the lcd panel. Is there a reason why he didn't mention it, since obviously it did cause some trouble for your lcd screen? Also regarding this particular fan, how do the blades of the fan have to rotate? Does the air have to go from the outside to the inside, through the panel, all the way down to were the other fans blow them out?
4) What about the throwing distance of the projector? Is it possible to adjust the projected screen size without moving the projector (I live in a 3 meter by 3 meter room) ? Or does the focusing/pulley system provide for that (I have seen some diy projectors without a focusing system so what are the benefits of it) ?
Sorry for the many questions, I am just so excited to build this and I don't want to fuck this up :D
Hello! The way I understand it, you can have many combinations of fresnel lenses. For example, a 90 mm focal length and 170 mm is a good pair(like in this build), and so is 120 and 185 provided that you have a projection lens with a focal length of about 200 mm. I honestly don’t have a very good understanding of optics, but there are some optimal combinations. One of the ways you can adjust the size of the projected image is to just move the projection lens up or down to bring it in focus or to use the focusing system. I moved the projection lens because that seemed to work better. As far as I’m aware, there is no way to adjust the throw in a convenient way but I haven’t experimented with moving the fresnel lenses around in my build. You CAN try putting your LCD panel in the middle of the fresnel lenses and see how that works out. And for a 2 meter image you’re probably gonna be 4 meters away from the wall.
Regarding your second question, a condenser lens specifically is different from a fresnel lens, but I think sometimes they’re used interchangeably. In this case, a condenser lens could be placed on top of the LED since its a hemisphere. Honestly, this is one of the things I was planning on adding to it later on. It’s definitely worth a shot, but you might want to add more cooling for the LCD panel!
Speaking of the LCD panel I’m not sure why Matt didn’t have any issues with his; maybe because phone screens are tougher than separate LCD panels? xD. Anyway, I had the fan blowing air in, and luckily it just goes with the air pressure if that makes sense. The negative air pressure from the fans on the heatsink would pull air in anyway, and this fan just helps with that.
And finally, as I mentioned, I don’t know of a way of adjusting the throw, but you could try putting the LCD panel in between the fresnel lenses and messing around with the fresnel lenses. For example, you can add tilt control by making the second fresnel lens tiltable.
Happy building!!!
@@justabit9070 thank you very much! That certainly makes things clear
Excellent video
Really like the vid. Keep it up!
How much did it cost totally?
In all, it costed several hundred USD. About 850 USD. It’s quite an expensive project, but if you have some of the parts and the tools, you could do it for cheaper.
@@justabit9070 Thanks for the reply. Mind telling me how much the aluminium and rod cost? Estimate...
@@geek4001 the threaded rods were about 15 USD if I remember correctly, and the 8 aluminum sheets costed about 32 USD(on eBay). I would suggest getting ALL your aluminum from a local metal cutting store since they can cut it for you and it’s generally cheaper.
Great . Thank you so much for sharing..
how much was the total cost of the project?
It was pretty close to 1000 USD which was MUCH more than what I predicted.
why didnt you use the yuji led?
I mentioned it in the video with text but there was a defect in product (probably something during shipping) but they gave a refund for it.
@@justabit9070 oh sorry i missed it. I'm almost done with mine btw :)
Brilliant thanks!!
You made things that big youtube channels can't make 🤣😍🤩🥰 .keep going broo
Hey guys what do you think of using a commercial projector and replacing the LCD for a higher resolution one? Do you guys think it's possible? if so how?
Hey. First of all you need to focus your light source because a LED chip has a ~170 degree beam angle and you waste a lot of light. Second you may to change the led type to a smaller emitting area like an ygc 200ww this has a 13x14mm emitting area. You will get a lot sharper picture ✌️ you may need a radial fan to cool the lcd with the new light source but you will get a lot more light output and sharper image quality.
Thanks for the input man! I was actually planning on adding a condenser lens for the LED next, and maybe experiment with more powerful and smaller LEDs.
@@justabit9070 did you do this modification? if so, i'm really interested in the improvements!
whats the full cost
Is the image good?
It’s actually really good unless you really pixel peep. Unfortunately, as I mentioned in the video, it’s really dim compared to a commercial one because of the amount of light the LCD panel blocks. But if don’t have any other light in your room it should be fine.
To speed up threading you can put your bolt or threaded rod in a chuck of a drill and hold the nut with wrench or pliers. Don't use bare hand. The threads can pinch or cut the skin with the nut. Yup you learn that lesson once 😂
awesomeeeee
Hey dude, you r make my day )).
after watching Perks video, I dreamed about building my first diy projector, but I haven't space area for my DIY works&project (.
questions:
1)does this project worst to make VS buying used fullhd 1080 fabric projector?
(prices for average diy components
vs used projector price used
2) I have one great idea for replace compatible light source like led/xenon and etc from automotive or other headlighting components for decreasing cost of DIY .
thank a lot for this work .
Regards!
@Ricardo Tozzi thank you. This projector is definitely more expensive than even a new 1080p projector, and much more expensive than a used 1080p projector. Commercial projectors will be brighter and more compatible. However, if you have a lot of the tools and some of the parts, then it might come out to be cheaper. If you add things like a condenser lens, a brighter LED, and a proper TV Box LCD panel, you’ve got a pretty compelling DIY project. Only question is: “Is it worth the time?” For me it is because I learned a lot and had fun but maybe not for others.
Modifying a commercial projector sounds interesting because you could swap in a more powerful LED with a better cooling system and condenser lens. Very cool stuff!
On your point 2, i also thinking about that, because I can get 6500k led with 9000 lumens if I choose led projection lamps made for cars. But here is catch, car use two led projector, and that 9000 lumens are if you use both LEDs, single led have only 4500 lumens. That's why I'm also confused if car projector lights can work in it or not.
Plus point for using car led,
(1)projector is you get ready to fit kit with heat sink and power controller. You only need to add fan as your projector is not moving like car, so need active cooling.
(2) so cheap that you can get at half price with power controller then other diy cob LEDs. Just plug and play.
@ricardo tozzi
@@kurjibhalsod3547 Thanks a lot for sharing your mind. You are made any diy construction with auto Led kits? I thought 4500 lumen is enough for certains and/or painted walls darkened room. my burned commercial projector lg ph150 had only 130 lumen! .
this brightness was quite for watching videos in a simple room without special darkeness, for example on a white ceiling. so, i like your idea, and intersting of process.
@@ricardotozzi5440 not yet bro, still I'm gathering money and knowledge. But your reply give my idea little more bust and positivity to do something experiment.
Dear JustaBit,First Thank you very much the video !!!!!! The problem with PICTURE QUALITY LCD POLARIZING LAYER FILTERS THE IMAGE QUALITY !!!! I' Know because I'tried it 2 different Displays !!!!! I WISH YOU ALL THE BEST !!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Quality stuff
Good bro
Смотрел оригинальный ролик, но у тебя тоже не плохо получилось, молодец.
very well explain!
HOLD ON A SEC ! I dont have a metal drill lol .
i wonder why not use a water cooler ?
My thinking was that a good air cooler would outperform a 120 mm AIO, but then I thought you could just get a 240 mm (or larger) AIO and route it to an outer chamber. Actually, my choice of air cooler could’ve been better because I could’ve chosen a smaller Fuma 2 or U12S or a dedicated LED cooler.
Bro love this project . Think euro 2020 final in this projector
Yeah, that would be cool.
Prity fine I recomend you to use lens more bigger around 90 mm or 100 mm of diameter to have a better flat lighting so the corners do not be dark and have a really good image screen and have a grate enjoying and a grate experience and your audio system sounds with alot of cualety ();-) greeting from Guadalajara Jalisco Mexico (y) (b)
How much money did this projekt cost u?
Even something as simple as a more powerful led would go MILES to improve this design. If you could get 300w of cob behind that thing it would likely be a massive improvement.
I was thinking of a 300 watt COB in there but so far I haven’t because of all the extra power needed but also how much heat the LCD panel can take because it was already having issues with a 100 watt LED. I think the biggest issue is light leakage and wastage so a tighter design along with a condenser lens would go a long way for the projector.
I would recommend not recording audio and video at the same time with a video like this. Record the footage then have a script for your audio that you add in post, it will make the audio quality better and you can be sure that what you're saying in the video is exactly how you want it.
@RobotPotato thanks for the tip. I did record in post for the middle portion of the video but not for the rest. Appreciate the advice!
o resultado final nao ficou bom ficou escuro e a imagem tava borrada e vc fez um trabalho perfeito mas gravou com celular embaixa resolucao e estragou tyudo
That wasn't Matt's idea, WE MADE THOSE PROJECTORS when he wasn't even born, I've been making stuff like that way before Internet, and that's one of our designs, we didn't use LED because it wasn't developed as of today's standards, we used 400watts Metal Halide bulbs... And a 17" laptop screen... Here's a tip for you, forget what Matt said, the size of the light source matters, and contributes to the sharpness, the smaller the led the sharper the projected image. That's why your projector looked all blurry and you chose a bad Objective lens. That's why your corners are so dim...
The mirror absorbs light so if you put your projector horizontal and (without the need for a mirror) you get a brighter image. I could go on and on. And change the title of your video: "I remade Matt's video."
Sell it price
bilingual in hand speaking
Bro send me a heatsink plzz
Here’s the one I used: www.amazon.com/Scythe-Ninja-CPU-Cooler-SCNJ-5000/dp/B079X3DBH8/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=scythe+ninja+5&qid=1627824009&sr=8-3
Great video and looks amazing but you have copied his words EXACTLY.
@Mr Minecraft I watched his video many times and I may have subconsciously said some things the way he said it in parts of the video, but I wasn’t intentionally trying to copy his words.
Edit: this also took months to make the projector and edit the video, so I did put in a lot of work to get it made and uploaded. I've also tried to respond to all the comments to try and help people who have questions to be as helpful as possible.
Okay, that’s good that you understand it. I can see you have put a lot of effort in to the projector :)
i will comment on diy perks latest video saying that to see how you made projector using his video
Не продемонстрировала работу проектора. Много болтовни.
.
Bro send me a reply
Copied from DIY PERKS UA-cam CHANNEL BUT UR DESIGN IS WORST
10.11 time stamp. your writing instructions are too short timed. I literally have to pause video, go back to 10 second, and wait to appear instructions again and pause video again to read it fully. In your next videos please make written instructions stay langer on screen, because you got viewers from all around the globe and not all people are fast reader.
Cope
@@oskarkrizaj2276 Roger that
Awful edit.
waste of 30 min
കൊള്ളത്തില്ല 😄😄