My wiring job is like looking like a bunch of cobwebs. I bought a few of my terminal blocks from Home Depot. They sure make a huge improvement to the electrical connections to all layouts. Awesome work as always Dave!
That MTH trerminal block is impressive. Your switch idea is the best for transfering control systems, keeping it simple. And the line diagram for the switch is helpful. Glad to see labels being used. Reading comments and learning of the homerun wiring, i purchased The DCS Companion 3rd edition. Whenever i get into MTH locomotives, i wanna do it right. Great video Dave, thanks for the mention.
Thanks Ed, I appreciate your feedback. I really wanted to eliminate unnecessary connections. I’m so happy with the crimper, really does such a better job.
Hello Dave, I think you are smart by going with the star pattern wiring (or home run wiring) approach. Yes that is what MTH prefers to operating DCS. I have an old layout that I constructed when my children were very young, about 25 years ago with the bus wiring. I plan on redoing the layout as well as redoing the wiring and utilizing the star pattern wiring as I also have the DCS system along with 2 protosound 2 and 3 engines. I don't think that what you are doing is overkill, I believe your wiring approach is correct and the right way to go, and also very neat with the red and black wiring utilizing the connectors (I believe they are MTH?) to keep everything organized. Keep up the great videos. I enjoy watching them. A++++
Thanks! I appreciate your response. The blocks I’m using are generic from Amazon, but there are MTH versions available and are probably a little more robust.
Thanks. The switch is nice because when I want to run conventional right front the ZW, it’s super easy. I wasn’t able to use the ZW like that for a while and I missed it
Thanks, Dave. You have done a great job of reminding me why I run conventional and never to go to MTH and DCS, and I'm an electrician with a small layout. Oh, and a neat looking wiring job, by the way, and kudos for using actual electrical tools instead of a razor knife, chisel screwdriver, and a pair of slip joint pliers.
@@dbtech7914Hey Dave, I think with the auto mechanical strippers it is you get what you pay for. I personally have always used electricians wire strippers. They are small hand held strippers that are designed to only strip wires and nothing else. The issue I had was finding a pair that stripped the smaller gauge wires. I bought a cheap knock off auto mechanical stripper to try out and had hit miss results. The electricians brand name strippers like Kline or Ideal are worth buying. It just depends how much wire you have to strip that justifies the cost. I finally found a set of small strippers that strip the smaller gauges. The combination wire strippers, crippers, and screw cutters make for poor wire strippers. A pair of wire strippers made for just stripping wires is the way to go in my opinion, or a quality pair of electricians mechanical auto strippers, but they aren't cheap.
I used to do cable management a lot and those ratcheting crumpets are great! Except for 12 gauge it’s a lot harder to crimp the yellow ends! I like the idea of having the switches to use multiple control systems. I’m thinking of doing that for both of my layouts, except using 1/4” phone jacks like a patch panel so I can swap transformers on different tracks
For all the crimps I’ve done with the wrong tool, I can’t believe it took me so long to buy the proper one, it’s faster and better! That’s a good idea, I was originally going to do something like that when my layout was smaller
Great job rewiring, like the label idea I need to do more of that. Question though, why would you have a switch for either dcs or tmcc? Those signals don't interfere with each other and then you could run a mth and lionel command locomotive on the same loop at the same time.
To be perfectly honest, I don’t know! I don’t really know what I’m doing with these systems. My first thought is that you can’t run the DCS Explorer passively (I don’t have a tiu), but I don’t know that for a fact.
Dave, does the DCS explorer supply power to the track or just the DCS command signals? If just the signals, that may explain why the DCS explorer isn't working, if I am following what you did correctly, there is no track power when switches are set DCS/Command.
The DCS is powered by a power brick that puts out a constant 18v It’s not a lack of power, it doesn’t find the explorer. It’s been a long time since I set it up, I’m just going to set it up again and go from there.
Wow, great video Dave and very helpful in terms of wiring to support multiple control types (Conventional, DCS and TMCC or even Lionchief and Lionchief 2.0). I used to operate my conventional and Lionchief with a Lionel ZW and a VW both inherited from my son in laws grandfather but some of my newer locomotives & diesels did not like the whistle function of the diode from the transformer and there was also the fear of a short frying boards. Consequently I have recently moved my conventional to 1- MTH Z-controller (1 with a 1000 power brick). I use a switch to move from conventional to MTH Explorer DCS (powered by a 2nd 750 power brick) which seems to work well using the MTH app on my iPhone or iPad. I am using the accessory 14 volt power from the MTH 1000 brick to power any track accessories. My new trolley line is powered by an old 50 watt Lionel transformer. My new re-wire with all copper is using a single MTH bus to 2 ovals connected by manual switches. The connected ovals have a single ground wire and 4 power connections, 2 to each side of the 2 ovals (4x8). My new 027 elevated line is powered by a Lionel CW80 with 2 power lock ons on both sides of the oval. Following in your footsteps I probably should do a video on it too. It all works well for now but as you say, change is always possible. I have yet to try TMCC or invest in the new Lionel Cab 3 or MTH WTIU control systems but who knows...
Thanks! I was hoping it would be helpful if someone was looking to set up something similar. Sounds like you have a decent setup as well, I’d like to see more about that if you do end up making a video on it.
We see you running wires but no clue what the switches are for. You obviously said one switch was feeding another but we have no clue why. Again no clue of objective of all these wires but you seem to know the reason and out come. I don’t follow. Brick some kind of transformer? You seem to have this solid in your mind but sorry I just don’t follow. Maybe a schematic drawing would help.
I did say what the switches were for, one switch changes between conventional and command control, the other determines the type of command, either TMCC or DCS. So the point is to be able to run TMCC, DCS, or conventional on the outer loop with just the flick of a switch or two. A power brick supplies a constant 18v to whatever controller you hook it up to, whether that’s a conventional controller or a command setup. Hope this helps clear things up. There is also a very basic diagram at the end of the video.
I’m still lost at one switch going to the other. And can conventional and tmcc/dgs controlled run at same time on one track? The reason I ask is I often run two trains on one track conventional. They have to be speed matched. Maybe with your system they don’t have to be speed matched but with only one being conventional.
A very careful wiring tutorial, Dave. Having a variety of control options makes great sense. You do amazing work!
Thank you!
My wiring job is like looking like a bunch of cobwebs. I bought a few of my terminal blocks from Home Depot. They sure make a huge improvement to the electrical connections to all layouts. Awesome work as always Dave!
Thanks. Hopefully it will all be worth it.
That MTH trerminal block is impressive. Your switch idea is the best for transfering control systems, keeping it simple. And the line diagram for the switch is helpful. Glad to see labels being used. Reading comments and learning of the homerun wiring, i purchased The DCS Companion 3rd edition. Whenever i get into MTH locomotives, i wanna do it right. Great video Dave, thanks for the mention.
Thanks Ed, I appreciate your feedback. I really wanted to eliminate unnecessary connections. I’m so happy with the crimper, really does such a better job.
Very clean work and great tips! I love those red multi-cable staples! I’ve gone through bags of them under my layout 😎
Thanks! They clips were super helpful wiring my house and thankful I have some left over, works well for trains too!
Really amazing work at this wiring job!
Thank you!
Hello Dave, I think you are smart by going with the star pattern wiring (or home run wiring) approach. Yes that is what MTH prefers to operating DCS. I have an old layout that I constructed when my children were very young, about 25 years ago with the bus wiring. I plan on redoing the layout as well as redoing the wiring and utilizing the star pattern wiring as I also have the DCS system along with 2 protosound 2 and 3 engines. I don't think that what you are doing is overkill, I believe your wiring approach is correct and the right way to go, and also very neat with the red and black wiring utilizing the connectors (I believe they are MTH?) to keep everything organized. Keep up the great videos. I enjoy watching them. A++++
Thanks! I appreciate your response. The blocks I’m using are generic from Amazon, but there are MTH versions available and are probably a little more robust.
Very neat and logical. I have a small 8x8 so a couple of feeders for 3 loops works but I like the TMCC and conventional switch. May try that soon.
Thanks. The switch is nice because when I want to run conventional right front the ZW, it’s super easy. I wasn’t able to use the ZW like that for a while and I missed it
Make sure you scrap your old wires. It's amazing how much it takes to wire a layout properly.
I may use the cca wire for led lighting. This is certainly a little more involved than a wire and a track clip
Nice clean wiring! I’m wiring my layout now and went all pure copper also for the reasons you put in your last video. CCA negatively impacts DCS too
Thanks! Good! Your layout is too big to make the same mistake I did! Can’t wait to see it all up and running
Thanks, Dave. You have done a great job of reminding me why I run conventional and never to go to MTH and DCS, and I'm an electrician with a small layout. Oh, and a neat looking wiring job, by the way, and kudos for using actual electrical tools instead of a razor knife, chisel screwdriver, and a pair of slip joint pliers.
My aim is to be of service, either to assist in your task or remind you why you don’t. lol. I like to have proper tools, makes everything easier!
The crimpers are nice and good to have, but I could never get those wire strippers to work correctly.
@@dbtech7914Hey Dave, I think with the auto mechanical strippers it is you get what you pay for. I personally have always used electricians wire strippers. They are small hand held strippers that are designed to only strip wires and nothing else. The issue I had was finding a pair that stripped the smaller gauge wires. I bought a cheap knock off auto mechanical stripper to try out and had hit miss results. The electricians brand name strippers like Kline or Ideal are worth buying. It just depends how much wire you have to strip that justifies the cost. I finally found a set of small strippers that strip the smaller gauges. The combination wire strippers, crippers, and screw cutters make for poor wire strippers. A pair of wire strippers made for just stripping wires is the way to go in my opinion, or a quality pair of electricians mechanical auto strippers, but they aren't cheap.
@@dbtech7914 they work on some types of wire better than others. When they work, they are great
I used to do cable management a lot and those ratcheting crumpets are great! Except for 12 gauge it’s a lot harder to crimp the yellow ends! I like the idea of having the switches to use multiple control systems. I’m thinking of doing that for both of my layouts, except using 1/4” phone jacks like a patch panel so I can swap transformers on different tracks
For all the crimps I’ve done with the wrong tool, I can’t believe it took me so long to buy the proper one, it’s faster and better!
That’s a good idea, I was originally going to do something like that when my layout was smaller
Nice job looks great
But wow that’s a lot of wires
I don’t have any of those things
“;-)”🚂👍👍👍👍👍👍
It is a lot of wires and kind of overkill for what I do but it was interesting to do
Great job rewiring, like the label idea I need to do more of that. Question though, why would you have a switch for either dcs or tmcc? Those signals don't interfere with each other and then you could run a mth and lionel command locomotive on the same loop at the same time.
To be perfectly honest, I don’t know! I don’t really know what I’m doing with these systems. My first thought is that you can’t run the DCS Explorer passively (I don’t have a tiu), but I don’t know that for a fact.
Dave, does the DCS explorer supply power to the track or just the DCS command signals? If just the signals, that may explain why the DCS explorer isn't working, if I am following what you did correctly, there is no track power when switches are set DCS/Command.
The DCS is powered by a power brick that puts out a constant 18v
It’s not a lack of power, it doesn’t find the explorer. It’s been a long time since I set it up, I’m just going to set it up again and go from there.
Hello. What brand of wire are you using.
Generic wire from Amazon
Wow, great video Dave and very helpful in terms of wiring to support multiple control types (Conventional, DCS and TMCC or even Lionchief and Lionchief 2.0).
I used to operate my conventional and Lionchief with a Lionel ZW and a VW both inherited from my son in laws grandfather but some of my newer locomotives & diesels did not like the whistle function of the diode from the transformer and there was also the fear of a short frying boards. Consequently I have recently moved my conventional to 1- MTH Z-controller (1 with a 1000 power brick).
I use a switch to move from conventional to MTH Explorer DCS (powered by a 2nd 750 power brick) which seems to work well using the MTH app on my iPhone or iPad.
I am using the accessory 14 volt power from the MTH 1000 brick to power any track accessories. My new trolley line is powered by an old 50 watt Lionel transformer.
My new re-wire with all copper is using a single MTH bus to 2 ovals connected by manual switches. The connected ovals have a single ground wire and 4 power connections, 2 to each side of the 2 ovals (4x8). My new 027 elevated line is powered by a Lionel CW80 with 2 power lock ons on both sides of the oval. Following in your footsteps I probably should do a video on it too.
It all works well for now but as you say, change is always possible. I have yet to try TMCC or invest in the new Lionel Cab 3 or MTH WTIU control systems but who knows...
Thanks! I was hoping it would be helpful if someone was looking to set up something similar.
Sounds like you have a decent setup as well, I’d like to see more about that if you do end up making a video on it.
We see you running wires but no clue what the switches are for. You obviously said one switch was feeding another but we have no clue why. Again no clue of objective of all these wires but you seem to know the reason and out come. I don’t follow. Brick some kind of transformer? You seem to have this solid in your mind but sorry I just don’t follow. Maybe a schematic drawing would help.
I did say what the switches were for, one switch changes between conventional and command control, the other determines the type of command, either TMCC or DCS. So the point is to be able to run TMCC, DCS, or conventional on the outer loop with just the flick of a switch or two.
A power brick supplies a constant 18v to whatever controller you hook it up to, whether that’s a conventional controller or a command setup.
Hope this helps clear things up. There is also a very basic diagram at the end of the video.
I’m still lost at one switch going to the other. And can conventional and tmcc/dgs controlled run at same time on one track? The reason I ask is I often run two trains on one track conventional. They have to be speed matched. Maybe with your system they don’t have to be speed matched but with only one being conventional.