Ive had this comment a few times, so ill address it here: The crimps meet the spec of the cable and the crimper, for these specific dies if the crimper clearly marks the lug with the number and flattens the shoulders that is a considered satisfactory crimp, regardless of how "compressed" the copper strands looks within the inspection hole. We also out a few test crimps, checked for slipping and twisting, then cut the crimps in half to ensure the connection was sound, we had no issues. Ive had cembre dies and lugs which look like they have barely made a mark on the lug, yet meet standard, some brands the lug looks shiny where it has compressed the copper so much, also fine, it depends on the lugs, cable and crimper. Regardless of the actual integrity of the lugs it would be impossible to determine anything from a UA-cam video, there are many CPD courses on lugs and crimping, elpress do a great one which may help. Finally, all materials on this project were "free issue" and specified by the client and their electrical engineers.
Been there. Fought for like an hour and a half to get a cable on a termination and then took it off because I didn't like how it look and fought for two more hours to get re-routed and back on. Stepped back and completely hated how that looked so I fought for 90 more minutes to get it back how I originally had it. Yep I feel your pain.
In no-fault conditions eddy currents will only arise if current is being split between two supplies unevenly, and that should be uneven between cores as well (say if first L1 will carry more than second L1, but L2 and L3 be well balanced). In your design it looks absolutely fine.
Great job, thank god for Kevlar gloves. A Leccy I once worked with put too much pressure on his Stanley Knife when scoring the inner sheath and went into the core insulation. You could see copper when they were splayed. We had to put two layers of heatshrink on each core.
I've been doing plastic injection moulding for the last 25 years (the same firm) Before that I was HVac and did the wiring side, the 3 phase armoured cable was nowhere near that size...It's crazy!
100%. Love the dedication to your craft. Well done executing this kind of work for yourself. No matter how much you do it for employers it’s not the same on your own
Nice work Mike, for they money you spent on that Milwonky crimper that looks like it just pinches rather than a proper crimp.. get yourself a Cembre and matching lugs
This is quite a good little look at those crimpers I’m looking at changing my hand hydraulic Cembre crimpers to a set of these 😂 they do a 6T version too which looks a little bit more substantial but you can’t changed out the jaws to the cutter heads 🤦♂️
Thanks man, I’ll be honest I love cembre kit and I’ve got a hydraulic head which I’m gonna get the Milwaukee pump for because cembre lugs are spec’d so often and they quality and tech support is soo good. But I don’t get the critiscm of the Crimper, if it was pinching you would get the “wings” and deformation on the lug? it crimped these lugs perfectly - we even tested one and cut the lug open on a of cut before connecting the cores up 👍🏼
The pump and head is the better way to go, easier in tight spaces, yeah cembre crimps get specced a lot , lugs are so much better than the usual off the shelf stuff ... when i said pinching.. i meant i slight under crimp... if the lugs had wings id call it an over crimp.. you'll get what i mean when you start using cembre gear... using the milwonky crimper and radon lugs theyre never going to be calibrated for each other... so youll never get a true crimp.. hence why cembre gets specced on big jobs
But if youve get a Cembre HT51.. youd be better off going over to the b500 .. they use the same dies. same as the 131c.. battery version uses the same dies
Would be strange if they’ve spent all that money developing a product that doesn’t crimp properly as that’s its only job so you need to buy a thermal camera to check it 🤷♂️😂
Those are definitely under-crimped (insufficiently crimped). Looks like a mismatch between lug type and crimp die type. I think I saw an "L22" mark on the die, which means it is for L-series Klauke lugs. But there was no "L" marking on the lug. In addition to this, the official manufacturer recommendation is to use special sleeves for sector-shaped (non-round) conductors and first press them with a pre-rounding die and then crimp the lug on the rounded sleeve. Klauke code VHD1854 is the sleeve, and RU22240185 is the pre-rounding die for 185 mm.sq. sector-shaped conductors.
Great series of videos, really enjoyed them. Just a comment as an engineer - I'd be surprised if 50Nm for the main lugs (to the internally manufactured copper plate) is tight enough. You said 50Nm is the manufactures spec for the isolator, but that is a pair of smaller bolts. Plus this torque rating will take into account that that excessive rotational force may damage internal components of the isolator. As it's a clearance hole for the main lugs (on a self manufactured plate) I would just torque it to "FT" (F-ing tight 😂), or see what the maximum torque rating is for a M10 bolt. 👍
Great watching you work, Can I verify for my own curiosity why 2x180mm not 120 or 150s, also why there no neutral? Again asking out of curiosity only not questioning install
100% That distance from gland plate to termination is way too short ! It annoys the hell out of me when panel builders have no comprehension of the space actually required to terminate these cables ! Grrrrrrr 🤬🤬🤬🤬 Fair play to these guys for managing with what they've been given.
@@willmitchell255I USED TO GO TO MANUFACTURERS HERE AND ON THE CONTINENT DAY IN AND DAY OUT and refused the panels if the did not comply with the Regs. full stop
@@willmitchell255 Its all in the regs mate the must comply its down to the inspector to refuse the panel, i did and believe you me the did not do it twice
Surely there will be no eddy currents due to all the phases being in the same hole. Same reason why you have to separate the cables to use a Klippon Ammeter.
My guy using his double insulated screwdriver as a punch 😬 You have a lot better faith in those plastic tools than I do. Make sure you inspect them before you do any live work with them, if you do any at all. Stay safe out there.
Nice to see you bending cables but you struggle there is an easzy way use cable benders blacksmith made and easy to use if you have worked for the board you will know the ones
Great job really enjoy the videos. You must get so sick and tired though of comments from people who sit at home all day wacking off all day to every page of the wiring regs. We don’t live in a perfect efixx world where everything’s planned out perfect
Thanks man, got a few more to come out yet on this job so stay tuned! Yeah they can be frustrating but I know Ive done a good job to a good standard, people just like to have something to say online 🤷🏼♂️
Let me give you two chaps a pence worth of advice...get some resistance bands and work those wrists and forearms. I started pulling 1/0 - 4/0 and 250,500mcm cables and those bands helped a buttload when it came time to bend and shape wires.
I’ve got a question, out of curiosity. What are wiring colors in the UK? Over here, black or red are line/hot, white is neutral and bare is ground/earth. Well at least for 120/240v. 3-phase is different.
The feed through the steel panel is OK because ther's no single core wiring. Each single wire would induce an eddy current in the ferromagnetic panel and would heat it up and cause to rattle at grid frequency. In your multi-core cables the magnetic fields of all three phases offset and the cable seems (magnetic) neutral to the outside.
when i do big stuff like that i usually make a big circle like traffic circle with the cable then attach it . ii also enter the cabinet more off center not above the breaker . say to the right on this one. much easier . plus i use aluminum lugs with a big setscrew instead of the crimp ends. i buy lugs that have 2 holes for 2 cables . it gets done much faster. never had a problem even years later.
Great technique for smaller cables although can come across as a lack of confidence/commitment, it wouldn't be possible on these 185's and even if you did it would put a stupid amount of pressure on the lug bolts, only really see the network jointers using shear off lugs in the UK.
Those crimps don't look very tight
Ive had this comment a few times, so ill address it here:
The crimps meet the spec of the cable and the crimper, for these specific dies if the crimper clearly marks the lug with the number and flattens the shoulders that is a considered satisfactory crimp, regardless of how "compressed" the copper strands looks within the inspection hole. We also out a few test crimps, checked for slipping and twisting, then cut the crimps in half to ensure the connection was sound, we had no issues.
Ive had cembre dies and lugs which look like they have barely made a mark on the lug, yet meet standard, some brands the lug looks shiny where it has compressed the copper so much, also fine, it depends on the lugs, cable and crimper.
Regardless of the actual integrity of the lugs it would be impossible to determine anything from a UA-cam video, there are many CPD courses on lugs and crimping, elpress do a great one which may help.
Finally, all materials on this project were "free issue" and specified by the client and their electrical engineers.
What an effort Mikey! A happy new year to you and family
Thanks Jim, Happy new year!
Been there. Fought for like an hour and a half to get a cable on a termination and then took it off because I didn't like how it look and fought for two more hours to get re-routed and back on. Stepped back and completely hated how that looked so I fought for 90 more minutes to get it back how I originally had it. Yep I feel your pain.
It could have been an idea to put an extension box on top that would have given you more room to make them off.
In no-fault conditions eddy currents will only arise if current is being split between two supplies unevenly, and that should be uneven between cores as well (say if first L1 will carry more than second L1, but L2 and L3 be well balanced). In your design it looks absolutely fine.
Great job, thank god for Kevlar gloves. A Leccy I once worked with put too much pressure on his Stanley Knife when scoring the inner sheath and went into the core insulation. You could see copper when they were splayed. We had to put two layers of heatshrink on each core.
I've been doing plastic injection moulding for the last 25 years (the same firm) Before that I was HVac and did the wiring side, the 3 phase armoured cable was nowhere near that size...It's crazy!
Great job the only thing Id query is the turning stress being put on the connection points by the single cables due to them being so close.
Easily the best channel on UA-cam 👌🏻 top work as usual mike
Thanks man, really appreciate that 🫡
100%. Love the dedication to your craft. Well done executing this kind of work for yourself. No matter how much you do it for employers it’s not the same on your own
Love the company knife 😂 great video mate
😂 - nice one John!
Nice work Mike, for they money you spent on that Milwonky crimper that looks like it just pinches rather than a proper crimp.. get yourself a Cembre and matching lugs
This is quite a good little look at those crimpers I’m looking at changing my hand hydraulic Cembre crimpers to a set of these 😂 they do a 6T version too which looks a little bit more substantial but you can’t changed out the jaws to the cutter heads 🤦♂️
Thanks man, I’ll be honest I love cembre kit and I’ve got a hydraulic head which I’m gonna get the Milwaukee pump for because cembre lugs are spec’d so often and they quality and tech support is soo good.
But I don’t get the critiscm of the Crimper, if it was pinching you would get the “wings” and deformation on the lug? it crimped these lugs perfectly - we even tested one and cut the lug open on a of cut before connecting the cores up 👍🏼
The pump and head is the better way to go, easier in tight spaces, yeah cembre crimps get specced a lot , lugs are so much better than the usual off the shelf stuff ... when i said pinching.. i meant i slight under crimp... if the lugs had wings id call it an over crimp.. you'll get what i mean when you start using cembre gear... using the milwonky crimper and radon lugs theyre never going to be calibrated for each other... so youll never get a true crimp.. hence why cembre gets specced on big jobs
But if youve get a Cembre HT51.. youd be better off going over to the b500 .. they use the same dies. same as the 131c.. battery version uses the same dies
Amazing work!
I have a question: do you use some products to prevent copper plate oxidation?
Thanks! - nah we don't, it wouldn't hurt I guess but you rarely see it on switchgear
That crimper looks like it's barely pinching the lug, I'd be looking at that with a thermal camera once it's energised🤔
We tested the lugs, there are fine 😂
Would be strange if they’ve spent all that money developing a product that doesn’t crimp properly as that’s its only job so you need to buy a thermal camera to check it 🤷♂️😂
Those are definitely under-crimped (insufficiently crimped).
Looks like a mismatch between lug type and crimp die type.
I think I saw an "L22" mark on the die, which means it is for L-series Klauke lugs.
But there was no "L" marking on the lug.
In addition to this, the official manufacturer recommendation is to use special sleeves for sector-shaped (non-round) conductors and first press them with a pre-rounding die and then crimp the lug on the rounded sleeve. Klauke code VHD1854 is the sleeve, and RU22240185 is the pre-rounding die for 185 mm.sq. sector-shaped conductors.
Lugs looks under crimped?
Don't say that
I've no experience with that crimper but it does seem like it lets off rather early.
We all had that phase growing up
A single phase?
I always had three.
I've got swollen glands
Great series of videos, really enjoyed them. Just a comment as an engineer - I'd be surprised if 50Nm for the main lugs (to the internally manufactured copper plate) is tight enough. You said 50Nm is the manufactures spec for the isolator, but that is a pair of smaller bolts. Plus this torque rating will take into account that that excessive rotational force may damage internal components of the isolator. As it's a clearance hole for the main lugs (on a self manufactured plate) I would just torque it to "FT" (F-ing tight 😂), or see what the maximum torque rating is for a M10 bolt. 👍
Where did you get a set of them crimps for the force logic??
From Milwaukee, these are the "L" dies im told the jaw will take cembre dies too which I'm yet to try.
Great watching you work,
Can I verify for my own curiosity why 2x180mm not 120 or 150s, also why there no neutral?
Again asking out of curiosity only not questioning install
delta configured supply
Phase or line return
Termination box on top off the panel would have been better and cut slot in the panel top
This, nice big spreader box made with a metal water tight enclosure 👌
Great shout, we would’ve really appreciated that but wasn’t an option in the end, the switch should of been lower in the panel originally 👍🏼
100%
That distance from gland plate to termination is way too short !
It annoys the hell out of me when panel builders have no comprehension of the space actually required to terminate these cables !
Grrrrrrr 🤬🤬🤬🤬
Fair play to these guys for managing with what they've been given.
@@willmitchell255I USED TO GO TO MANUFACTURERS HERE AND ON THE CONTINENT DAY IN AND DAY OUT and refused the panels if the did not comply with the Regs. full stop
@@willmitchell255 Its all in the regs mate the must comply its down to the inspector to refuse the panel, i did and believe you me the did not do it twice
no eddy currents because it's a short run from the last point the earths were bonded?
Surely there will be no eddy currents due to all the phases being in the same hole. Same reason why you have to separate the cables to use a Klippon Ammeter.
My guy using his double insulated screwdriver as a punch 😬 You have a lot better faith in those plastic tools than I do. Make sure you inspect them before you do any live work with them, if you do any at all. Stay safe out there.
its an old driver dedicated to "knocking", wouldn't go anywhere near live kit with it.
What size grips was Toby using to make the cores smaller for the lugs just intrested in what size the knipex grips where great content
They are the 300mm ones mate, nice bits of kit 👍🏼
@ thank you yes I’ve got the slightly smaller version there great keep up the content cheers bud
Nice to see you bending cables but you struggle there is an easzy way use cable benders blacksmith made and easy to use if you have worked for the board you will know the ones
Great job really enjoy the videos. You must get so sick and tired though of comments from people who sit at home all day wacking off all day to every page of the wiring regs. We don’t live in a perfect efixx world where everything’s planned out perfect
Thanks man, got a few more to come out yet on this job so stay tuned! Yeah they can be frustrating but I know Ive done a good job to a good standard, people just like to have something to say online 🤷🏼♂️
@ done a banging job, a lot of them think they’re the best sparks around online until they actually go and do the job and have to show it 🤷♂️👍
Let me give you two chaps a pence worth of advice...get some resistance bands and work those wrists and forearms. I started pulling 1/0 - 4/0 and 250,500mcm cables and those bands helped a buttload when it came time to bend and shape wires.
Now I feel emasculated 😭
Why do they put the terminations so high up in a huge cabinet
I know right, they originally where supposed to be lower in the panel, always the sparks that "have to make do"
I’ve got a question, out of curiosity. What are wiring colors in the UK? Over here, black or red are line/hot, white is neutral and bare is ground/earth. Well at least for 120/240v. 3-phase is different.
L1 - Brown L2 - Black L3 - Grey N - Blue CPC - Green/yellow
@ thanks. I appreciate it. Congrats on the growth of your channel. You’ve come a long way.
that is a ridiculously nice torque wrench. Link?
Milwaukee M12 🤝🏼 uk.milwaukeetool.eu/en-gb/m12-fuel-one-key-3-8-digital-torque-wrench/m12-oneftr38/
Why did they use an aluminium plate on a STEEL rittal cabinet?
The feed through the steel panel is OK because ther's no single core wiring. Each single wire would induce an eddy current in the ferromagnetic panel and would heat it up and cause to rattle at grid frequency. In your multi-core cables the magnetic fields of all three phases offset and the cable seems (magnetic) neutral to the outside.
13:25 Mike the wind up merchant
Be careful with those types of jokes; you'll put people on edge around you.
Me and Tobias have a special kind of rapport don’t worry 😅
What a handsome young man you are Mike.
Your making me blush bro
😂😂
Looks rough
Soooo rough 🫣
3phases through same hole each. Cancelled out in each cable in its own right
Have you ever cut one of these cables too short? 💀
Luckily I have not but can easily be done for sure 😅
Absolutely delicious as ever sir.
Thanks LV 👊🏼
when i do big stuff like that i usually make a big circle like traffic circle with the cable then attach it . ii also enter the cabinet more off center not above the breaker . say to the right on this one. much easier . plus i use aluminum lugs with a big setscrew instead of the crimp ends. i buy lugs that have 2 holes for 2 cables . it gets done much faster. never had a problem even years later.
Great technique for smaller cables although can come across as a lack of confidence/commitment, it wouldn't be possible on these 185's and even if you did it would put a stupid amount of pressure on the lug bolts, only really see the network jointers using shear off lugs in the UK.
3 hours bending one core?😂
I thought it was obvious but we was joking mate 😅
👌
amateur hour you should stick to 2.5 twin & earth
I did ask if we could wire this in twins and earth and the client said no?
yo
Yoooo