VW Polo Rear Brake Shoe Replacement - Polo Drum Brakes
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- Опубліковано 30 вер 2024
- How to replace VW Polo rear brake shoe | replacement Polo drum brakes. The 💯% BEST step by step guide on UA-cam.
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Here are links to some of the tools and equipment I used in this video:
🛠 Draper 11534 Brake hose clamp
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DO NOT use mole grips or other pliers. They can damage the hose walls
🛠 Draper One man brake bleed kit
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These make brake bleeding a breeze
🛠 Draper Expert ¼” socket set
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I have an older version of this set. It will last you a lifetime. Superb quality
🛠 Draper (standard) ¼” socket set
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If the Expert set is beyond your current budget, try this.
🛠 US Pro torx socket set
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I much prefer these sets in plastic cases rather than on a bar. So much easier to store.
🛠 Digital caliper
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Perfect budget unit for the toolbox and general measurement
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🛠 Multipurpose tray
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Somewhere to put your bits & bobs or to catch dirt and drips. Use it in the garden even!
🛠 Normfest MC-1 brake cleaner
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You’d like to think brake cleaner is brake cleaner! But this is about the best I’ve used and with an excellent strong jet spray. And great value here if you buy in quantity.
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#volkswagen #polo #vwpolo
Hi friends. At 5:14 you could remove the bleed nipple completely - it makes it easier to undo the pipe union.
H
Good video but one small point. Near the beginning you use a screw driver through a wheel nut hole to release the auto adjuster. That was made easy because the closed end of the spring was orientated to the rear. When you reassembled the brakes you orientated the spring the other way around. The next time you want to release it, it will be more difficult.
Absolutely ace description of a task I realised I’ve got to undertake on my daughter’s car this morning. Thanks for all your efforts - I’m most grateful.
Glad to help Colin, thanks for your feedback
This can be done without removing the wheel cylinder but it is a little tricky.
Undo hold down springs,release hand brake cable.(slacken handbrake all the way back,will make this very easy)
It is made easier to remove by putting cable tie round wheel cylinder (this has two benefits ,it stops wheel cylinder coming apart,and gives a little more room)
Release the spring from handbrake lever ( the long one clipped through the bar), unclip small spring to adjuster, and push adjuster up.
You can now manoeuvre the handbrake shoe to a position you can open it enough to release it from bar.
It's a little fiddly but better than messing with rusted brake pipes or having the bearing come apart.
Hi sportshatch, thanks for watching and for helping out others with the tip. 👍
spotshatch, can you explain a bit more clearly as I am rather confused about the last part of your method.
lightvan to get the shoe with the hand brake lever to separate from the adjustment bar you must open it up until the hand brake lever can be slid out.. You will see after you take a look . After I did the first side , the other took me less than ten minutes.
But you have to get it at the right angle to open the shoe enough. It's difficult to explain but easy to see once you have it apart..
When you put the new shoe in you again have to feed it into the lever at an angle.,with the lever open away from the shoe..
After you slid the lever into the slot on the bar you can then close the lever back into place. You know if you have it in correctly because if it is not you won't be able to close the lever into the shoe to refit.
I know this doesn't sound very clear but I hope it helps.after you do it once you will Change the shoes in 10min
@@sportshatch many thanks for your explanation. I shall proceed with the job.
maybe possible with it all loose
I believe this is the best video how to change rear brake shoes. Thanks, Cyd. Little hint: You might find it easier to use one of the springs (thick bottom one) to put top spring back in place rather than using cable ties. ;)
Thanks, kitani. Hopefully others will find that tip useful 👍.
Thanks, but 2 other great tips in the comments made it easier to do, and didn’t need the cylinder to come off, 1 tie wrap the cylinder pistons closed, gives lots more room to work with, and 2, relax the hand brake cable so there play in the cable, makes it easier to reattach the cable against the tension in the spring at the end of the cable. Thanks all.
ua-cam.com/video/uRFF-jqvzLU/v-deo.html
5:41 haha nipple
Why would you take off the wheel cylinder????
Great video but where do you clamp the brake hose? Im working on a vw up and all the brake pipes coming out the drum are metal. Thx
There must be a hose in the vicinity of where the pipes jump from suspension to body to cope with the relative movement
100,000 miles, my wee polo has hit 324,834 miles 😱😁 very good video, i will be giving my polos read brakes a go this coming weekend xx
Nice 👍, be sure to report back about how you get on. Hearing how I've helped others through my channel is a real motivation boost to carry on and make more. And I always appreciate [constructive] feedback. 🖖
Any belt changes?
hi surely there's enough room to hook over shoes and springs over the hub without taking cylinder off?
If anyone out there can find "the knack", they are welcome to make a portrait video of it and send it to me. I'll edit it into a #Shorts and publish it.
If I want to change my handbreak cable do I have to remove the shoes to disconnect it or can it be done from the outside of the assembly
You might be able to leave the shoes in place if the other end can be released first to slacken the inner cable. You'll defo need to remove the drum though. Do let us know how you get on.
Hi what size is the flare nut size on the wheel cylinder my car is a mk1 Skoda fabia.thank u
11mm is a common size, but sometimes 10 or 12.
Every time I watch this video I see how well and good you have done this well done
Great video, clearly explained for those of us who are less experienced. The one thing that I did differently that others may find helpful is when replacing the spring at 7.55 instead of using a cable tie, use a pair of long nosed pliers. Grip the spring by putting one end of the pliers inside the end of the spring, grip tightly and pull it towards you and hook the spring end on to the "yoke", job done :)
Cyd does it again. Thanks. In the spring your alternator video saved me £££££s and now in the summer You’ve showed me how change a brake cylinder.. my wife polo lives on!!!!
Great to hear! Thanks
Big thanks for this video Cyd, followed it to change the pistons, shoes and drums on my Polo following piston failure and fluid loss. Never worked with drums before so this was a great help!
Glad it helped, that is, after all, why I make these videos. I confess, I hate drum brakes. My first ever car had drums all round. It quickly gained discs from a GT version.
This chap is very thorough in this video.I've change my brake shoes following his method and was an easy job done plus didn't take as long.Good video 👍
Hi Mark, thanks for the vote of confidence. I do try to be thorough even though it goes against some YT "best practices". What got me started was frustration with videos that only show "half the job" with dismal quality. Welcome aboard.
I've done this but 1 of my rear left shoes is making a shuddering sound everytime I brake, changed the master cylinder now also but still making the sound any help would be greatly appreciated.
Try giving the braking surface of the drums a really good clean with a 50 grit flapwheel. Also ensure there is no grease or brake fluid contamination on the braking surfaces - thery must be scrupilously clean.
Thanks very much ,concise, well edited and a great help unlike many of the American posts on here
Hi cyclone sid you don't mention how to ajust the rear brakes having someone in the car to press the brake pedal so you can pull the wedge down using a small spike to lock the brake on then back it off so you can turn the brake drum and hear the linings binding as the wedges never seem to work don't think the spring is strong enough plus you didn't bleed the brake the old fashioned way using a jar with brake fluid in and a pipe on the bleed nipple and the pipe in the brake fluid to watch for all the air being removed other wise good video I've had experience with Mark 4&5 models
I do explain how the wedge works at just after 6 minutes. The spring doesn't need to be strong because it's working with gravity, the wedge should drop under it's own weight. If you have problems adjusting up, then the wedge may be damaged, worn or gummed up. I had no problem at all with either side. You could always put a stronger spring in if you feel you must.
At 13:06 I say that I was using an "easy bleed" pipe with a one-way valve. The tube is also clear so bubbles can be seen along it's length, which IMO is a superior method to watching the bubbles in the jar because then you're looking at fluid that has just come out rather than previously bled fluid.
I too was brought up using the two man method where the nipple needs tightening each time the pedal is released. I've had that easy bleed pipe since Gunson's first introduced them to market, probably 25 years ago. I even prefer it to the pressurised bleed systems you can get.
3 years on, this is still helping folks like me. Cheers! Although the drums being 16 years old at this point, they required a sledge hammer to remove haha 😄
Yeah, been there 😂😂
Undo the shoes first through the wheel bolt hole
Hi cyd, on the self adjuster do you have to push it back up or down with a flathead once drum is back on?
No need. "Self adjuster" - does what it says on the tin, but you should operate the footbrake first to allow it to self adjust before you operate the handbrake.
very well put over ,clear and concise ,does the self adjusting wedge reset itself on hand brake action ????
Thank you. Yes, it does.
very good but always de-lip the rear drums before refitting. It is sometimes possibly to bleed air by squeezing in wheel cylinder, close nipple, open nipple squeeze etc until no air comes out.
Thanks - having struggled to find a video for this job on the Audi A2, this is very helpful. Clear, to the point and concise. Exactly what's needed when you're struggling with this sort of job 👍
You are welcome! I know exactly what you're talking about. In Engineering we call it 'Fresh Eyes'. A multi disciplined team approach to checking issues. Sometimes you just can't see the wood for the trees and need a fresh perspective.
Does the auto adjuster set when you pull the hand brake or do you have to press the brake pedal once everything is back together to set the adjustment? Thanks
Really informative and made it look easy, really appreciate your tips and tricks that you shared during each step
Hate drum brakes, especially the polo ,overcomplicated design like most German stuff.
I was hoping you could show the springs again, i cant see which spring you're putting where and i cant find a single video with another vw polo that properly shows the springs. Tia
Don’t forget to make sure the reservoir doesn’t run dry while bleeding and don’t overfill it. It’s handy if someone keeps an eye on it and tops up while you’re bleeding the brakes.
Good point, thank you.
Best video I have found on servicing the drum breaks. Thank you very much!!!
Very good video Cyd for myself being a DIY driveway mechanic to learn from, 5 stars.
Thanks for saying. Did you manage okay in the end?
Thank you. I had a go at this on my Skoda fabia (before this video).. was an absolute nightmare! Watching this made me realise how hard I made it for myself! Thank you lol
Many thanks helped a lot.
I knocked the wedge tension spring off while levering it up thru the wheel nut hole. Crapped myself at thought of then not getting drum off but it came off with a little bit of levering between fixed rear cover and drum.
Found by pausing your vid where it had been connected to on the brake shoe.
All I had to do was clean the crud out as it had ceased up the day before, and while a few taps unleashed it I wanted to see what it was like inside. Could not get it off until I watched your vid.
Been over 30yrs since I stripped brakes on my Golf Mk1. VW seem to have gone backwards on their design complicating pad replacement and reducing the safety in securing the hub on the stub axle. Gone it seems is the split pun and locking device replaced with a torqued up nut. Backward step but probably faster when building the cars.
Still got half a tin of Duckhams grease left over from my time regreasing the stub axle bearing after pad replacement that I bought in 1984 in Africa.
There's always 'fun' to had when working on cars. Good work.
Great video 👍
Does anyone know on average how long drum brakes last before needing to be changed on a VW UP ?
I’ll have a go at this on my UP GTI when it’s time.
The shoes should be good for at least 80,000 miles, probably 120,000. On a small carm maybe more. I'd suggest inspecting them at 80,000 miles and measuring them to gauge the life left.
If you watch this short video, you will see me measure the pads on my son's Fiesta and work out the wear rate. ua-cam.com/video/lS4Zq3E8nZg/v-deo.html
I would consider inspecting the wheel cylinder every year and cleaning the whole system. My experience is that they don't last long. Also put antiseize grease on wheel cylinder bolt and bleed nipple.
What happens if you don’t clamp the brake hose with that tool
Mr. Cyclone Cyd, thanks so much for the instructional video. If my english is a bit different from yours, it's because it's American English. The point of my comment is to let you, and others know, that my wifes' and my 1980 B1 Dasher diesel has this style of self adjusting read brake drum set up. I was going through the repair manual (Bentley and another British style maintenance manual...forgot the name) and I was looking for the 'star' adjusting wheel inside the drum while looking through one of the four holes (lug bolts) that are present when the tire/tyre is removed from the drum. I could not see this 'star wheel'. This leads me to believe that there is this self-adjusting wedge that you went in to detail on. Thanks so much. My whole plan was to get the parking brake light to go out while I am driving the car to and fro. The maintenance manual specifically says to adjust the rear drum shoes before adjusting the handbrake lever yoke ('U' shaped bracket) under the car that pulls tension on the brake cable linking the two drum brakes together. But, since the rear drum brakes are self-adjusting......I am going to investigate what I have to do first ......and then adjust the hand brake lever play to ensure the parking brake light does go out while I am driving. It is certainly not an electrical fault. I can periodically set my hand down onto the brake lever and the light does go out on the left side of the instrument cluster. So, If there are any other owners/drivers of vws that have a similar issue with their cars...Please chime in here. I think I would like some advice on this topic, please and have a great afternoon.
Sounds like the handbrake cable has too much slack and is holding the h/brake lever up slightly. Yes, adjust the brake shoes with the footbrake first before adjusting the cable
This chap should be a tutor, for young budding motor mechanics.
I have to do this on my polo , all I have to do is get the right bits for it and the cylinders seem a bit of a minefield.
Thank you, that's very nice of you. The main thing is to be methodical. Take photos as you go to refer back. As you take parts off, lay them out on your tray in the assembled pattern. Be scrupilously clean
I have a 2011 VW Jetta and I'm having a hard time getting the rear drums off. I've tried pushing up on the wedge as described in the video, but no success getting them off. Is there something I'm missing? Any suggestions are appreciated.
You have released the handbrake? I know it seems obvious, but it's an easy mistake to make. Try releasing the cable adjustment too.
Another possibility: is the hydraulic system fully releasing? I've known faulty master cylinder keep pressure in brake lines and make discs rub. You could try disconnecting the brake line at the wheel cyclinder.
You're certain the Jetta uses the same adjustment mechanism?
Any way to manually adjust the brakes? Instead of the self adjusting spring doing it automatically
No. Auto adjust only. Excess dust, leaking brake fluid and corrosion cause problems. A good clean might be required.
Nice video and good explained, it helps me to change brake shoes on my polo 9n, but I removed bearing with 30mm socket and it was easier for me. Now I have small problem, brake pedal is a bit soft and hand brake "catch" very high.
After all I bleed out only rear brakes.
Do you have idea what can be problem? Thanks!
Put ceratec around the bleed nipple threads to prevent air being drawn in through them and bleed again.
Please help!! When trying to release the self adjuster lever, the spring came off and I still can’t remove the drum to access it. Any ideas how to solve this / is it safe to drive?😂
Thanks
Just imagine the spring is still there and try to lift the adjuster in exactly the way shown. Under gravity the adjuster will adjust the shoes to the drum. the spring assists gravity. Should still be okay to drive, because it's fail 'safe'
Could not figure out that wedge system bud ty 15 stupid videos till i found your now the job is done well done fella and cheers for the help all the adjuster systems i have done before were the cog type fork adjusters never seen this wee wedge thing 😂 😂 cherrs again great video
Yeah, it was new to me as well which is what made me want to suss it out and then pass on that knowledge. Welcome aboard
What is the brake fluid bleeding sequence on this Polo? Brakes replaced and working fine, but pedal is a little bit soft.. thanks for the great video!
Unfortunately I don't know the VW specified sequence. I always start at the rear then do the fronts. The biggest problem I've found with brake bleeding is air being sucked back in past the nipple threads - a wipe of Ceratec will solve that.
Hi, thanks for a great video. At the last service VW told me one side has very little brake movement, so I'll be doing a cleanup and replacing brake shoes and wheel cylinders on both sides on my 2014 VW eUP. Will the procedure be identical to the one in your video? The car has under 25.000 miles on the clock. Do you think it would be necessary to replace the drums? Thanks.
Hi Robert. Thanks for watching and welcome aboard.
I'm not familiar with th eUp specifically, but most brake drums are similar and I'd be surprised if VW deviated much from a proven carry over design.
At only 25k I'd be very surprised if you need new shoes or cylinders. I'd suggest getting them from somewhere that accepts returns if unopened. I'll bet it just needs a good clean up and lube. Use Cera Tec for lube. amzn.to/2naTyZ3.
New drums? Very unlikely
Hi if I only need to change the cylinder do I need to remove the shoes or can it be removed leaving them in place? I've changed discs before but not had to do drums.
I've always removed the shoes when changing cylinders. I've never tried to change cylinders without removing shoes. I don't think you could because of the springs. In any case, it is a rare opportunity to give everything a good clean and make sure everything goes back together in tip top
Thanks for the video! But is the brake hose clamp necessary? Or is it also possible to hold the brake paddle down instead? Gonna fix my polo's drums, got all the tools but not the brake hose clamp thing.
YES, NO. Pumping old fluid 'backwards' up the system riska damaging the ABS.
amzn.to/3kigQJw only a tenner.
@@CycloneCyd thanks mate!
Thanks for doing the video!
I had to remove the shoes on a 6R Polo TDI and was baffled how to get the return spring, hidden behind the push lever, out. This video my first port of call. I opted to take the cylinders too because you're supposed to fit a new hub nut if you take the hub off. Just a pity VW decided to make the brake shoe fitting so daft. Don't care much for the thin bleed nipple, a chunky one would be better. Coat the nipple and brake pipe with ceramic grease before refitting. I stopped using coppaslip because it dries out and causes things to stick.
yeah, copper grease was "state of the art" 70 years ago. In truth it's rubbish. Things move on.
Very good video, I would advise buying a pair of handbrake cable pliers
If you're likely to use them more than once, a very good investment. A good shout! 👍
Amazing video thank you
If no lubricant at all what about brake cleaner ?
Огромное спасибо из россии
Changed my break drums but the hand break now doesn’t work. Any answers?
I can only suggest you must have put something back wrong (or left something off).
Did you suss it out?
Thanks Cyd, video was a major help, definitely gonna subscribe!
Awesome, thank you!
Great tip..couldn’t find the adjustment to release 🍻🍻
Glad you found your answer
Thank you for the amazing video! This is so far the best rear drum brake system maintanance video avaliable for VW Polo. I have a question: The self ajudstment device can be moved in both directions? To open and retract the pads? Some cars its possible just in order to open the pads to compensate the pads wear, but not in opposite direction. Cheers from Brazil!
Hello Thiago. Thanks for the kind words.
Yes it is. Use a screwdriver to release the shoes. At 1:10 in the video.
So much easier than other makes.
Don't forget to like, subscribe and share.
Благодарность !
Wow! You made that look so easy. I'm going to do mine now. Thanks for the video.
Thanks for watching Tony, let me know how you get on.
Do these brakes only get used for the handbrake? Or under normal braking as well?
Typically, the front brakes do about 70% or so of the braking, while the rears do 20-30%, sometimes less.
@@CycloneCyd OK cheers
The adjuster wedge is best set at minimum and let the application of foot and handbrake adjust the shoes out. A good how to video. The amusing part of the job is having to remove the cylinder.
Great tip!
@@CycloneCyd
Great video!
Thanks for the vid.
Where did you place the hose clamp? Also, I got the one linked but it seems way too wide for the hose (the clamp says it is for 10-20mm hose)
Thanks again!
There was no need to remove the brake cylinder to replace the brake shoes. The rear brake shoes can be replaced without removing the brake cylinder. That was extra and unnecessary work.
Hey man, great video. I assembled everything back together, but the nipple keeps bleeding. Any thoughts or solutions for me?
Thank you Cyd. Your video is clear concise and complete. I was prepared to replace the hand brake cables as I heard they were liable to corrosion but couldn’t face the prospect of going underneath the car. Should have fitted them at the hb end on ramps first if that’s possible?
Do you recommend changing suspensions on this car even if they work fine after 150k km?
I'm a fan of that saying "if it ain't broke, don't fix it". Of course, in this context, broke could also mean 'worn out' or 'unsafe'. So the short answer is 'NO', not for the sake of replacement. As long as nothing is broken or excessively worn, leave it be. You should probably balance this with the condition of the rest of the car and how long you expect to keep it.
@@CycloneCyd thank you so much!
Excellent video thank you very much for your time and effort!
Glad it was helpful!
great job , I've just done this job today so thanks for the video , do I need to do anything to set handbrake , I'm getting about 5 clicks on handbrake maybe 6 if I pull hard
What could cause it to knock? I have a knocking in the back when I drive. It seems to stop after about 10/15 mph
Hey cyd, how did you get the brake cable back on the lever. I'm struggling with the pushing back the spring with one hand and pushing it on the lever at the same time. Did you have to to have someone else there to help?
Thanks for posting. I had a leaky cylinder on my sons car and figured removing the cylinder seemed like the only way to get the shoes off! More springs than a triumph herald or spitfire but I guess thats because of the self adjuster!
Great tutorial with very clear video footage 👏👏👏will be checking my daughters VW UP drums when she collects it soon this should be a great help thanks !! May get lazy if they need changing and buy complete ready assembled shoes and spring set .
a little more detail on fitting all those bloody springs would be very welcome...they are a nightmare..its not that easy
The brake hose isn't flexible so where abouts are you putting the clamp? Does it go to flexible further up?
Hi, my Girlfriend has a 2014 VW Up!, and I noticed yesterday when it pulled away there was a small " bang" off the rear NS drum, I guess they are sticking a little, is there an easy way to correct this or is it a stripdown???
Thank you for a very well made clear video, I’m going to mark you down for having a claw hammer on the job though 😉
Good vídeo, its neccesary remove the hidraulyc piston for remove the drum pads?
Great video thanks
Nice video that helps with changing the shoes. Not sure about removing the wheel cylinder though, it’s easy enough to get the hub off with a 30mm socket, it makes it all a lot more accessible then too
Hello Cyd, Thank you for your help. You are my inspiration. The whole video and commentary were great.
One thing you may not realise was a great help, was the picture of the brake shoes and drum all put together correctly at the beginjing of your film. It was great as a checklist and make sure mine was the same as yours.
Thank you again.
Well Done Greetings from Poland
Thank you.
Great video, very informative. Garage recently replaced a leaking piston on mine for mot, but now I am left with a loud grinding and creaking sound under braking. Any ideas what to check before I start investigating? Thanks.
Can you please update the part numbers for the brake wheel cylinder and brake shoes .
Thx for the tutorial, but you forgot to grease the shoe contract points and the cylinder edges.
Very professional sir highly experienced
So nice of you, welcome aboard
Bardzo dobrze, że na wstępie mówisz o bezpieczeństwie - kobyłki, kliny... bo podnośnik zawsze może się opuścić.😊
Very useful cheers
Thank you, Not. Welcome aboard
First Class video well presented thank you very much for showing.
Hi Cyd. Where would you use that brake hose clamp in this proceedure? Or is that just an aside?
If you open the bleed nipple or disconnect the cylinder be sure to clamp the brake hose before doing so.
@@CycloneCyd All clear now. Thanks Cyd.
@@CycloneCyd I've got the same brake hose clamp. The rubber is a continuous circle so how do you get it over the brake hose?
@@killerbunny46 you don't. Put the hose between the clamp arms about halfway down.
@@killerbunny46 watch this ua-cam.com/video/I2bjrobr1T4/v-deo.html at around 2:20
Very useful, thanks.
Glad to hear that!
Nice video 👍. Great info.
Glad it was helpful!
New Suby and well needed for my task tomorrow on my sons polo!
Great video , thanks for posting .
Thanks, Charlie. Did you have to refurbish your drum brakes?
@@CycloneCyd Hi there , my daughters 13 plate polo is due its MOT in a couple of weeks and I suspect it will need brakes replaced . I am a bit concerned that the bleed niples will be seized and shear . Is it possible to remove the shoes without taking the wheel cylinder off ?
Does the handbrake operate bothrear wheels?
Yes, always
What a great video. All looks so easy. Thank you.
Thanks for this video it has helped a lot
I must confess, I hate working on drum brakes so it's really gratifying to know it's helping people.
@@CycloneCyd I do to
Absolutely incredible video, thanks!!
Instead of saying "This end needs to go through theeeee and this one goes heeeee" I would have taken the time to show the camera which spring goes where. It's really easy to get it wrong. And it's the brakes you're fixing.
I make no claims for perfection.
My handbrake isn't working on that side. I've had the cable out and it's ok. The pipe it feeds through that retains the outer cable is good and in place - not moving with the handbrake action. I've tightened the cable all the way and still the drum will spin with the lever hard up. checked inside the drum and there's not much movement happening. Is there anything that could have failed at the shoe end? Gonna dismantle it now and look. Thanks for the video which i've watched to see how the shoes come apart.
What happened in the end? I've got exactly the same problem. Thanks
Really good educational tutor,not like a lot of the villians