Typical Day in the Garage BONUS! Steering Issue Not What I Thought!
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- Опубліковано 30 вер 2024
- Final part of the series... I find the steering issue on the Suabru is far more complicated than I expected. Everything about this car is more complicated than expected!!
My only question would be: Was it actually binding while you were testing? Because since it's intermittent- you would want to do your testing WHILE it's actually failing. The code was a "lost communication" -- so it could possibly just be a can bus line rubbing a ground and pulling the signal down.. But if it's working again at the moment, then obviously you wouldn't catch that with your testing. (which maybe it was still binding during your testing-- It wasn't clear or obvious to me). When you were turning the wheel left and right and testing that "opposing voltage ramp" style input signal, was it still binding when you cranked on the wheel?-- or was it working normal again and helping your turn the wheel? (at 13:20)..
That's what makes these intermittent issues such a headache. Because not only do you have to set up for it-- you also have to somehow make it act up again and actually catch it in the act..... But if it was still acting up that entire time-- then obviously the testing is valid. I'm just not sure of the "intermittent' status of the problem as a viewer. Was it still a problem throughout the entirety of testing-- or did it ever fix itself again? It's an important distinction. :) cheers.
Yes it was experiencing failure during testing. Tried tapping on the module and still would not work. Then a couple hours later it started working again a communication showed.
@@SchrodingersBox Interesting.. Could just be a loose solder joint on the input pins of the module. It's worth taking a look if it's easy to open. For intermittent issues like this, you can usually trace the connection pins down to the board and just resolder all of them there and that fixes it... it's only really worth it if you have time to waste. It makes more content for the camera. But if you have a lot of other stuff lined up; I can understand not wanting to give it a try.
I yelled GROUNDS and then the text appeared on the screen lololol
Lol 🤣. GROUND
One last thing I would have done when checking the cam lines would have been to unplug the connector to see if the signals were coming from the rest of the network or from the module. But looks like you got it straightened out. See you got a welding helmet in the background you weld?? If so maybe a how to in 2024??
Hey Matt really like the troubleshooting of CAN systems! Very interesting subject matter with all the various network types out there. Hope to see more network material and, as always, great video brother!
Hello Matt. I just started watching your videos. You're awesome . I like your logical thinking. Great troubleshooting skills. I'm a Disabled auto technician. Lost use of my left hand. I can do the electrical but no mechanical work. I hope to join your premium channel soon. Thanks for your amazing videos.
Sorry to hear about the injury man. that sucks. send me an email to schrodingers_box@yahoo.com and i’ll set you up with free access to help with your disability.
Great info, I have a problem I hope you can help me with. I have a 2000 acura tl, headlights went out on me, turn signal work, I changed the switch and that wasn't it, light bulbs are all good, checked all fuses and relays, they are good, except the headlight fuses one show green on both sides(-), and one shows zero but no light is shown on sensor, I used a power probe III, I think the wires between the fuse and lights are fine, as I use the probe to send a charge to the lights and that worked, any thoughts. Thank you in advance
What is the voltage drop showing?
Nice ! Matt it would be great if you cracked that module open as others have suggested and take a peek ! Also you might want to do some wiggle testing on the harnesses especially any fastened to any moving steering components before calling the module bad ?
I did try to open the module but it is not serviceable and I didn’t want to destroy it trying to open it in case we choose to send it in for repair.
The wiggle test of course was done and it passed however tapping on the unit with a hammer could make it work off and on. There is apparently a known issue where water intrusion in the steering module causes this issue?
U are the master of diagnoses
Oh man I still have so much to learn!!
Neighbours Vauxhall Vectra had no power steering. He was so frustrated with it. All advice had told him to change the fuse box. In fact he changed everything thereabouts - still not working. He was about to shell out for a full remap. Anyway, long story short, youtube showed me typical setups and I figured its a flexray com, the module has two wires for that and live, earthing out through the pump body. Rattling the harness the power would come and go. Ahh the old fashioned ways.. turned out to be a break in the wire. A thin black wire. The wire was so thin! A quality issue there. No fun if you're dropping the kids and the steering fails on a roundabout.
Had a semi with that problem . Funny noise turning left but not right
Bolts holding the stearing box to firewall were missing .
Parked the semi and told boss i quit .
Of coarse i could not leave the semi
Charged with abandoned equipment if i did
Matt, as always great series full of information specially for people who do not know much about communication problems one think though wouldn't be better to check communication with module disconnected so you can see others is communicating but that steering module is not answering the call oh well we know now needs module to fix the issue. as always be safe and healthy and thanks for the great contend u been posting that will help lots of people in there journey to become good technicians and do it yourselfers.cheeeers
Pay channel, every Body wants money.
And some want knowledge and to develop a skill. And that’s why there is a market for such things.
Have a ??? For any mechanic ??? I have a friend that has a f150 v8 triton motor in it. It started missing real bad so he stopped by auto zone I think and had them scan it. They told him he needed plugs and coils. He had enough $$$ to buy 4 coils and plugs. Only. He changed the coils on the side they said was bad. ( I know he should have changed them all but he didn’t have enough $$$$ ). After doing the work as mentioned above it’s still running like crap. What are some other things he can check or do besides changing the other 4 coils. Any suggestions or advice greatly appreciated here. I’ve heard the triton v8’s are basically junk / and hard to work on. TIA for any advice
what data do you have?
@SchrodingersBox I don't have any data yet. He's in a hardware right now and I'm just trying to help him out I need to buy à scan tool
You don’t need a scantool. Just take DVOM or even test light measurements of the coil reference and signal as a basic starting point.
@SchrodingersBox ok thanks I'll do thst
Just wondering, did you check for pin fitment at the module?
I once looked at a 2006 hhr that had the same issue. It was very frustrating and had CAN codes in the PCM for the TCM, but no power steering assist. The problem ended up being a loose connection at the ( gateway ) BCM.
The connector was held in by a bolt in the center. The bolt was loose and I think there was some kind of fretting going on. Cleaned it up and snugged it back. Problem gone. Still scratching my head on that one 😊
Yes I didn’t show in video but all connections were removed and inspected of course!!
Dana White looks like big Boo from Mario 😅
This is a very useful diagnosis for the customer so now a full picture of the likely cost to fix the vehicle can be put together.
Exactly!!! Unfortunately this customer has been unemployed for quite some time and won’t be able to afford the repairs :-(
How do we know the signal is actually reaching the module by back-probing? Because it could happen the connection from the connector to the module is bad for whatever reason, right? oxidation, etc...
Right.. Unplugging it and looking for green crusty's is not a bad idea.
But typically, you don't want to touch anything while trying to trouble shoot an intermittent problem.. until you have eliminated a lot of things and narrowed it down. But at some point-- peaking under the plug is a good idea. Even opening up the module is good to do, once you for sure are going to call it bad.
Connections are perfectly clean.
Awesome Diagnosis. 👍💯
Thank you!!
Why change plugs and wires when you can change modules? 😂
On a more serious note: a genuine question if it is the module wouldn't it produce the problem all the time? Could it be a loose connection as your back probing pointed out?
Hahahaha. I have seen many times - almost half the time in fact, where a failing module is indeed intermittent and not due to connection issue.
@@SchrodingersBox thanks for the piece of advice, I am but a simple learn who has learnt from you and ofc Paul D. But I don't have the equipment nor the mentality to do things other than the basics, thus the "simple" questions. Love yer work for the community, less fortunate and those in developing countries. Thank you.
I’m sure you can do more if you put your mind to it. I know I thought there is no way I would’ve ever learned to do any of this. Seemed way out of reach to me.
Also wouldn't be a bad idea to check the 5v reference wire if it has 1
It has several actually. We know they are good because they are shared from other modules and no other modules have codes.