Sandblasted, New Sills/Patch's and an Epic 5 mins of Fabrication
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- Опубліковано 6 жов 2024
- Time for sandblasting, the car came out great until I used the wrong product on it afterwards and spoiled a great job. Updates on all the progress and then a 5min sped up montage of Paul at his fabrication best.
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Finding a decent sandblaster that knows what he’s doing is rare in today’s world 🌎
@@michaelbyrnes7944 this guy takes care and loves old cars.
Commenting to show support for the channel 👍
Cheers bro that's cool. Not quite as exciting at the moment but I've got something coming up in about 2 weeks that I never expected would happen this soon, will be quite different from the usual content.
Awesome mate it’s looking bloody good
Cheers, those new sills have made the car look quite presentable.
the sandblasting showed a little bit of rusting but nothing to major so that was good. the body work is coming along nicely! pesky mouse must have had acid piss 😀 another good episode
Cheers mate, yeah came up well, a few other pin holes in the floor but they will just need a zap with the welder. Getting there, will look forward to your next episode.
Loving the progress so far
Cheers mate, I'm learning a lot from the process,
Cool video andrew 🤘
Cheers Mike, I'll catch up with you at Autorama 👍
Such a cool process, she's lookin sweet as!
thanks mate, it looks like it belongs in the shop now along side the other builds!
I really like how you did the before/after fade shots at the end. That’s a bugger with the phosphorus coating going like that, but at least it kept it protected.
Thank you, I always end up wishing I had taken more photos to do more of those. Yeah well that was the main thing to protect 👍
Shes coming along nicely well done mate cant wait for the next vid
Thanks mate, cheers for watching 👍
Thats a lot of work! Does anyone make patch panels for HQs? That car deserves a million dollar paint job.
Yeah mate Rear spares make some patches but I have heard they need a bit of work sometimes to get right. Cheers for the comment 👍
Nice work. 👍👍
Thanks mate 👍
Coming up a treat mate. What’s that red primer you used at the end After it was sandblasted I wanted to buy some and I wasn’t sure what it’s called. You have a bit of an accent lol
Cheers, yeah it's getting to that stage where theres a bit of light at the end of the tunnel. PA10 etch primmer, if you just want to protect the metal while you are restoring then 'epiphos' is good, its clear and can weld through it. Ha yeah it does occur to me that no one outside of NZ can probably understand me 🤣
Pendulum Chamber Panel
Cheers it totally escaped me that one 😅
Yummy 🤤
why not epoxy !!!! eg, ppg epotec etc
I think because its a clear coat that protects while the car is still being worked on, you can still see bare metal.
That's what I was thinking. A coat of Epotec & it's sealed up. Air can't get to it so won't rust again. Unlike 1k out of a spray can. Plus epoxy can be sprayed or brushed on.
@@The-State-of-it Not that red stuff he was spraying. Won't seal it from further rusting.
is there a reason why paul tig welds over mig.? tig seems cleaner less to grind would it make difference with heat?
Not sure mate I'll see if I can find out
I can't speak for Paul but mig stands for metal inert gas so the mig wire carries the current to create the arc in order to weld but at the same time it is consumed by the process
This gives you a window of what can be welded for any given set up
Tig is tungsten inert gas basically it's like an electric flame or oxy weld with tungsten being the electrode that created the arc to melt the steel
being electric it can be controlled digitally giving you not so much a weldable window as a roller door worth of room to adjust the weld for the application
@@bluejayfabrications2216 cheers for the reply i was more leaning towards would tig have less distortion with the metal over mig or do they produce the same amount of heat.? and would tig cool off quicker than mig? or same same?
@@isaacbarton3170 it's hard to explain in just text without drawings but think of it like this
In theory using made up numbers
If you have two identical fit ups both tight but joints no gap one will be Tig welded back one mig
Welded
And both will require say 100 amps of current and a travel speed of 10mm a second travel to achieve fusion
The mig will need 110 amps at the 10mm travel speed because it has to melt not just the base material but also the wire
Again these are made up numbers to illustrate that for a given weld mig will need more amps and creates more heat it won't get hotter but it creates more heat by volume
Also note that this doesn't track linier so if you were to plot this out in a graph you would get a curved line not a straight line
And mig Tig stick oxy will all have their own curves making then suited to different kinds of welding
Just remember it's 50%science because we have hard numbers amps material thickness filler material to work with
And 50% art because your hands are not mine
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Blast Ex Ltd, Check them out if you're in the Waikato region, Karl has been a huge help to me on this project from the start.