Thank you, my Zoeller check valve is making a loud clunking noise after the pump shuts of, so I think your suggestion for the Magic Plastic Quiet Check Valve will solve my noise problem. Like you my pump is below my family room and is so annoying when we have a lot of rain. Thanks again.
Water hammering and slamming check valves are also caused by restrictions in the outlet pipe. The pressure in the line will return to the pump and slam or hammer the valve. Replacing a check valve may not always work. You could have a line partially blocked.
@@bluesdirt6555 My check valve is a foot or two out of basin and floor level; still five or six feet up before going to elbow. I have a check valve with the shock cushion thing on the side. No noise. Besides, if you drill a tiny vent hole for air lock issues just above the pump, that is more water dumped into the sump.
@@bluesdirt6555 The further away you put it from the pump means that there is more water that will wash back in after the pump turn's off, which means that the basin will fill more frequently, which means that the pump will turn on more frequently , which means that you will go through more pumps then someone that puts it lower. If you put the check valve 10 feet away with inch and a half piping that's like 4 liters of water that's gonna flow back into the basin every time the pump shuts off
@@jeremycormier8559 These pumps should all have integral check valves. Unless it's defective water should never flow back. A spring check valve closes faster which reduces what sewer gas is reintroduced after it shuts off. Placement or orientation should not matter.
You should probably also find out why you're getting water hammer in the first place. Silent or not, that's a lot of pressure in the system which is not supposed to be there.
If you drill a small seep hole in the discharge pipe right above the pump it will allow the water trapped in the pipe to drain out. I suspect that is causing the water hammer. THoughts?
I have a gray water sump with a 4In cast iron discharge pipe and check valve... the water hammering is 1st class, like a freight train. That being said I dont think the plastic valve would last daily showet usage for over 20 year 😉
I have tried several check valves even had a plumber replace one. every time the pump stops runing, I get a loud banging. Plumber says its the water comimg back down on the closed valve and you can't stop that. any more suggestions?
@@proclaimliberty2000 yes as I said I tried several diferent and one was from a "PRO Plumber" at a cost of 275. he says its because the water comes back down and hits the closed valve.
@@proclaimliberty2000 this valve has no name only says "THE QUITE VALVE" it was installed by the "Pro" company. But it looks inside and out as he the one in your video.. I had them relpace the first one with another (SAME brand/kind)
Heres a question I'm running into leaking (new) rubber connectors to abs for a sub pump. It continues to leak even tightening down correctly. Is there a way to glue the rubber to the abs pipe then tighten the o ring?
Go to a pool store and get a tube of Teflon lubricant and apply that to any rubber or O-rings and that will probably stop your leak. Aladdin Magic Lube is great stuff!
@@proclaimliberty2000 exactly that's what I said too not sure I'm completely lost this sub pump has so much pressure its blowing every time it kicks on like old faithful lol
I have a flapper style check valve just upstream of my septic effluent tank pump. I was told to remove the check valve because in winter the effluent in the pipe upstream of the check valve can freeze. The volume in this piping is not enough to cycle the pump after the effluent drains back into the tank. Anyone have opinions on this?
You can install a drain valve above the check valve on the discharge line to drain the water in the line when closing out for the winter, this will ensure there's nothing there to freeze!
@@johnwaldman1730 Home depot has a terrible return policy and customer service. I find Lowe's is just a better shopping experience return policy products and customer service and a cleaner store
@@steve323f sump pumps sit in the basement in a sump basically a pit in the basement. if there's flooding or water collecting the idea is that it goes to the lowest point or if you have water already existing beneath the foundation your pump carries it outside and discharges away from the home on the surface or storm sewer(not sanitary)
Anyone know why hours after it stops raining my sump pumps continue to pump out water? I suspect my discharge piping may be broken but I can’t tell because it’s underground heading to the sewer. The water that keeps coming in is clear water. I have water spouts around the house and I’ve checked while it’s raining and it is dispersing the water away from the foundation. I’m not sure what to do.
@@bryanbuhl4618 the ground around my house is leveled. The house against my backyard does have a slope going downhill towards my property line but it’s leveled as soon as it hits my property line. That property line is an out 100’ away from my back patio.
Why is the Sump Pump running so frequently? Flood zone?? I installed the 2in Everbuilt from Home Depot, replacing the "quiet" check valve (which had broken). I've never experienced the hammering, maybe just a personal issue, Imjs.
Thanks Saul Goodman
This made me legit lol
Thank you, my Zoeller check valve is making a loud clunking noise after the pump shuts of, so I think your suggestion for the Magic Plastic Quiet Check Valve will solve my noise problem. Like you my pump is below my family room and is so annoying when we have a lot of rain. Thanks again.
The voice would be perfect for an infomercial. Thanks for your time
Water hammering and slamming check valves are also caused by restrictions in the outlet pipe. The pressure in the line will return to the pump and slam or hammer the valve. Replacing a check valve may not always work. You could have a line partially blocked.
Dear brother, thank you so much for the valuable information! God bless you!
Don’t put the check valve low ! Put it close to the elbow before it goes horizontally. Then less water weight coming down.
@@bluesdirt6555 My check valve is a foot or two out of basin and floor level; still five or six feet up before going to elbow. I have a check valve with the shock cushion thing on the side. No noise. Besides, if you drill a tiny vent hole for air lock issues just above the pump, that is more water dumped into the sump.
@@bluesdirt6555 The further away you put it from the pump means that there is more water that will wash back in after the pump turn's off, which means that the basin will fill more frequently, which means that the pump will turn on more frequently , which means that you will go through more pumps then someone that puts it lower. If you put the check valve 10 feet away with inch and a half piping that's like 4 liters of water that's gonna flow back into the basin every time the pump shuts off
@@jeremycormier8559 These pumps should all have integral check valves. Unless it's defective water should never flow back.
A spring check valve closes faster which reduces what sewer gas is reintroduced after it shuts off. Placement or orientation should not matter.
You should probably also find out why you're getting water hammer in the first place. Silent or not, that's a lot of pressure in the system which is not supposed to be there.
Don't have a sump pump. However, I found this information very useful.
namrednop 👍😊
do you have a video on how to check the sump pump?
I just installed the quiet check valve. It works, but there is more high frequency sound during the discharge now, ans it is leaking.
Thank you for this video! Made it crystal clear and easy for anyone to be able to fix. Thank you for the help
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What makes this one quieter than the rest?
Thanks for your video on noisy check valves!. Hey where did you get that sump cover? Looks like it's see through.
Those cover are for Radon gas stop in sump pump basing
If you drill a small seep hole in the discharge pipe right above the pump it will allow the water trapped in the pipe to drain out. I suspect that is causing the water hammer. THoughts?
Weep hole, couldn't hurt.
That should relieve or "vent" it below the check closer to the pump
so how will you know when the magic plastic has gone bad?
Mine started shouting water out. Not sure if that means anything but it’s causing a problem
very cool guy. greetings from Maryland
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Nice video thanks for sharing 👍
I have a gray water sump with a 4In cast iron discharge pipe and check valve... the water hammering is 1st class, like a freight train.
That being said I dont think the plastic valve would last daily showet usage for over 20 year 😉
Plastic isn't an issue. PVC will outlive any cast. The wear item is the rubber seal and steel spring. Even so they are cheap and easy DIY to replace.
After almost a year, any corrosion on the spring? If not stainless I would think that would be it's weak link.
I do not know what the spring looks like now but I do believe the spring was stainless.
It has to be a stainless spring. I don't think the manufacturer would overlook this...considering being in constant contact with water.
The houses I lived in never had a check valve and as long as the discharge pipe run is short you shouldn't need one.
I have tried several check valves even had a plumber replace one. every time the pump stops runing, I get a loud banging. Plumber says its the water comimg back down on the closed valve and you can't stop that. any more suggestions?
Did you try the quiet check valve that I installed in this video?
@@proclaimliberty2000 yes as I said I tried several diferent and one was from a "PRO Plumber" at a cost of 275. he says its because the water comes back down and hits the closed valve.
@@donnperlut1690 Yes, but did you try this specific quiet check valve shown in this video? I bought this on eBay for $25.
@@proclaimliberty2000 this valve has no name only says "THE QUITE VALVE" it was installed by the "Pro" company. But it looks inside and out as he the one in your video.. I had them relpace the first one with another (SAME brand/kind)
@@donnperlut1690 I have no other solution to your noise problem
Heres a question I'm running into leaking (new) rubber connectors to abs for a sub pump. It continues to leak even tightening down correctly. Is there a way to glue the rubber to the abs pipe then tighten the o ring?
Go to a pool store and get a tube of Teflon lubricant and apply that to any rubber or O-rings and that will probably stop your leak. Aladdin Magic Lube is great stuff!
@@proclaimliberty2000 i totally apologize I meant hose clamps. Were clamping rubber to abs 2" from the sub pump. Can you glue the rubber to abs?
@@takeemoutdoors3489 in my opinion glue is not the answer. You could try 2 clamps but it seems like something’s not right
@@proclaimliberty2000 exactly that's what I said too not sure I'm completely lost this sub pump has so much pressure its blowing every time it kicks on like old faithful lol
@@proclaimliberty2000 I'll try the double clamp idea
I have a flapper style check valve just upstream of my septic effluent tank pump. I was told to remove the check valve because in winter the effluent in the pipe upstream of the check valve can freeze. The volume in this piping is not enough to cycle the pump after the effluent drains back into the tank. Anyone have opinions on this?
My question would be how far below grade is the check valve and what is the frost level where you live?
You can install a drain valve above the check valve on the discharge line to drain the water in the line when closing out for the winter, this will ensure there's nothing there to freeze!
True none of the houses I lived in had one in the line.
Bro your amazing
👍😀
Just had to fix mine. Dang kids left plastic wrap bound up the impeller. Ugh
Always shop online or at Lowe's never shop at home depot they are terrible.
Why do say that? HD is just another Lowes to me.
@@johnwaldman1730 Home depot has a terrible return policy and customer service. I find Lowe's is just a better shopping experience return policy products and customer service and a cleaner store
We don't have these in the UK? Do they connect to the gutters outside?
No
Nope . Sump pumps are due to weird house design
@@Anton-du-Fleur weird good or weird bad?
@@steve323f weird bad. For me
@@steve323f sump pumps sit in the basement in a sump basically a pit in the basement. if there's flooding or water collecting the idea is that it goes to the lowest point or if you have water already existing beneath the foundation your pump carries it outside and discharges away from the home on the surface or storm sewer(not sanitary)
Anyone know why hours after it stops raining my sump pumps continue to pump out water? I suspect my discharge piping may be broken but I can’t tell because it’s underground heading to the sewer. The water that keeps coming in is clear water. I have water spouts around the house and I’ve checked while it’s raining and it is dispersing the water away from the foundation. I’m not sure what to do.
Is your yard on any sort of slant toward the house? Could cause water to constantly flow and make the sump pump run for longer periods of time
@@bryanbuhl4618 the ground around my house is leveled. The house against my backyard does have a slope going downhill towards my property line but it’s leveled as soon as it hits my property line. That property line is an out 100’ away from my back patio.
Water table rising
So what's the verdict after 1.5 yr plus?
Working great! I never hear it.
@@proclaimliberty2000 great thanks for the response.
@@hoots02 👍😊
Why is the Sump Pump running so frequently? Flood zone?? I installed the 2in Everbuilt from Home Depot, replacing the "quiet" check valve (which had broken). I've never experienced the hammering, maybe just a personal issue, Imjs.
The frequency of a sump pump running is always changing and is directly correlated to the amount of precipitation that the ground absorbs.
John 14:6
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