Tom the Dilettante you're a genius... i wish Subaru didn't cheap out on the Crosstrek as they have a 12v plug in most rear cargo area on the Forester current and past generations. Love the video keep them coming... i just bought an '19 Crosstrek sport m6 can't wait! Your videos are inspiring, keep up the great tutorials for us noobs!
Thanks for watching and the kind words! Yeah, the lack of a power panel in the back seemed like such a missed opportunity for Subaru. It drove me nuts :) I'll try to keep coming up with nifty mods to share!
One of the best how-to mods I have seen which pays attention to safely and properly wiring a circuit. Please consider posting more links in the SubaruXV forums-maybe get this stickied. Glad I found yours.
Very kind of you to say. Thanks for the feedback. This was actually my 1st video and I learned a lot. Some folks from the XV forum gave some good feedback (like the correction I added to the description). I'm still learning, and in hindsight I wish I had spent more time sharing best practices with respect to selecting wire gauge and what not. I just started this all over the summer for the fun of it. I like tinkering and video editing and figured I'd try to share stuff I find interesting with the communities from whom I've learned so much. Thanks for watching and keep the feedback (positive or constructive) coming. Much appreciated!
Hello Tom! Popped in to say this is the best pannel-popping video I've ever seen in my life. As a future Crosstrek/XV owner myself, I want to say thank you from the bottom of my heart as I'll also put a 12V socket in the trunk.
Thanks so much! And good luck with your future Crosstrek! This was one of my first mods, and to this day it's one of the mods I use the most. Wish Subaru had thought to put power back there in my generation / model, but then again...where would be the "fun" in that? :P
@@TomtheDilettante 💪 I only plan to mount a standard 12V socket there, with no voltage indicator, USB, or switch. Thus leaving space for other additions, maybe an extra trunk light. I was also planning to mount a USB charger for the rear seats/passengers, and seeing that you have a tutorial also for that is delightful! Finally, a q̶u̶e̶s̶t̶i̶o̶n̶ series of questions I have for you: do you always keep your ScanGauge plugged in? Does it turn on and off with the ignition? Does it drain the battery in any way? Thanks in advance for your answer!
Incredibly helpful, thank you! About to do this in my Wilderness. I was so disappointed to find no plug in the trunk. I want forward and rear-facing dashcams and now I'll have wires running all over my backseat.
Great information and content but I will make 1 suggestion. Dont tap into ANY power supply to ANY safety feature. Especially eyesight. I worked for Subaru for years and that system can have some crazy issues with altered current/voltage. Plus if the system doesn't work and upon checking the eyesight is modified in any way, you could potentially end up with liability issues. Other than that keep up the great work!!!!!
Another great video guide Tom. I installed mine today, and did the hatch push button a couple of weeks ago. Thank you kind Sir, keep up the good work!!
Glad you enjoyed it! Been a great mod for me so far. No regrets. It's not too difficult. The only real "pucker moment" is when you start making holes LOL! No going back once you start. Good luck with yours and have a good one!
Dear Tom, I recently purchased a 2019 Subaru Crosstrek Premium and I absolutely love it, However, like you, I feel the need to install an additional 12 V power source in the rear cargo area as I keep a Jackery 550 when I go on long road trips/camping trips to recharge my laptop, cellphone, and other USB rechargeable devices. Recently, I found this item on Amazon. I especially like it because it gives both a standard USB connection and a “C” connection as well as the 12 V cigarette lighter type plug. (Kohree 12V Power Outlet Socket, 3 in 1 200W Cigarette Lighter Socket with PD Type C 3.0 & QC 3.0 USB Charger Waterproof for Marine, Car, RV, Motorcycle, Boat, Golf, ATV, etc) It’s manufactured by: Kohree. Anyways, I’m looking forward to installing other mods on my Crosstrek officially known as Katydid. Thanks so much for creating the video that included so much detail on removing inner trim pieces, routing the wiring and all the other many suggestions and precautionary steps. I look ok forward to any future videos. Again, thanks. Don “Wolf”. S.
I appreciate your video. I just did a very similar install on my 2023 Crosstrek Base. The power station I used is very similar but only a 3 hole setup instead of the 4 holes your's has. The only things I did differently was I ran my wire following the fuel door release cable, just behind the seats to get the wire to the same spot as you ended up and I just drilled 3 separate holes instead of one large one to mount the charging station. Soon I'll be adding USB and USB-C ports inside my center console.
@@TomtheDilettante Absolutely. My wife and I are planning a lower 48 state road trip with the Crosstrek and a 5x8 teardrop camper. This extra power panel will be great for keeping the 12V fridge plugged in while driving and it'll also help our 12V air pump reach the camper tires, because the cord doesn't reach from the center console.
I have done similar builds in my older cars. I just bought a new Crostrek. I would love to do this. I have the experience. But I also have experience in breaking things. Can't muster the guts to do it. I'll just throw my 300w power station back there and call it a day.
That is definitely a viable and practical alternative. I was nervous as hell cutting into my brand new car too but I figured "what the heck" LOL. Thanks for watching!
Hey Tom, got my kit in a few weeks ago and planning to tackle this project this weekend. Really appreciate your posting and willingness to walk us through your process and the hiccups along the way. I've done a few electrical mods for lighting based on StarDude's postings, but find the Crosstrek is lacking power past the center console hidden lighter outlet (MY18). Based on the great comments by viewers I think I'm going to use 14ga wire and a hole saw as my only change to your process. I'll post if I have anymore ideas or snags along the way. Again, great idea, thanks for posting and willingness to walk through the entire process!
Awesome! Glad other viewer comments helped craft your approach as well! They definitely had some good ideas that I would have adopted in hindsight. My way is certainly not THE way and I'll be the 1st person to encourage adopting methods from others and improving upon them. Best of luck to you! I hope it turns out awesome and you are happy with it! Glad I could be of some help :)
Looks really good Tom. I'm going to move the panel mounted light to the headliner above the cargo area as it used to be in previous generations of my car (Forester)
Very nicely done. You have a great natural presentation style. Well-spoken and logical thinking. I'm looking forward to viewing other vids you've done and making some of your mods. This one especially. Thanks again. Good work!
Thanks very much! Glad you enjoyed it. This channel and my tinkering with UA-cam is just a few months old, but I'm having a lot of fun with it so far. Nice to hear people are actually enjoying the content LOL.
Thank you so much for posting this. I am not installing this unit you have here but am upgrading my speakers and seeing how you remove the panels will prove invaluable! Thanks again and good luck with your Subi! I just got a 2021 Trek Sport and absolutely love it....except the woeful speakers!
Glad it was helpful! If there are any other panels that you're thinking of removing that I didn't cover, let me know. Chances are I've pulled them already and would be happy to do a quick tutorial to help you and others out. I spent quite a bit of time looking how to remove panels on UA-cam, and when I came up empty, I just started pulling things LOL. So far so good. I have a video on installing a Ram track mount that shows how to remove the air vents and top plate from around the head unit. Might be helpful if you plan on tinkering around behind the radio. Thanks for watching and have a good one!
@@TomtheDilettante That's good to know....I will definitely be checking that out! The speakers get in tomorrow so I've got a nice weekend project ahead of me. Thanks again, Tom.....really appreciate your efforts on here!
Love the crosstrek videos. Just started watching as I just bought a 2014. With the amount of wiring you do for mods, I seriously suggest getting a ratcheting crimp tool for your connections as opposed to the hand crimper. Way easy to o and the connections are MUCH more secure.
I think you're right. I've heard good things about ratcheting crimp tools much like you said and I think I'm gunna have to get one. knowing myself though, once I get one, I'm going to be compelled to re-do ALL my wiring because...well...why not? LOL
Thanks for the great video. I just completed it myself. So nice to be able to run my air compressor without opening the hood to attach leads to the battery terminals. The only thing I did different was when it came to cutting the hole in the panel. I made a template out of card stock that was exactly the right size and used that to draw where the hole would go. I’ve got a multi-tool oscillating saw that went right through the plastic panel like butter. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for sharing your experience! Sounds like you did a more thoughtful job than I with the cardboard template! That's good though...if I can't show people what to do, I'm happy to show what NOT to do LOL! Not sure what kind of wiring you ran, so if you haven't already, please be sure to ensure the fuse tap and wire gauge you used is sufficient for the current draw of your compressor. In my case, I have a Viair 400P which came with a 40amp inline fuse. Assuming the unit draws even 3/4 of that, I'd have needed to use 10ga wire and possibly a heavier duty fuse tap. So I still end up popping the hood to connect it to the battery terminals, but I hope to permanently mount that compressor in my spare tire well with a dedicated relay sometime soon. Just gotta figure out the pneumatic plumbing :) Anyway, pardon the ramble, but hope that helps and thanks for watching!
@@TomtheDilettante I’ve just got a little Vivair 85P which is only draws 14 Amps peak and is fused at 15 amps. I ran 12 gauge wire to the fuse panel. It’s a tiny compressor but I don’t air down that often. Worst case I’ll have to wait a little for it to cool between tires. It fills from15 psi to 30 psi pretty quick. Thanks again and thanks for following up on the amperage and wire gauge.
Your cutouts are wrong. You are supposed to drill out circular holes for each receptacle. The plate only has 4 screws. You don't drill out the whole area for the plate, it weakens the backing.
Definitely handy. No regrets so far. Great for keeping a refrigerator running on the road or for charging up things like battery packs, etc... I wired mine to a constant hot so need to be careful not to leave something plugged in too long when the engine is off. I'm sure there's a fuse to tap into that's ignition hot which could be used as well. Good luck!
This was an awesome video. Managed to copy this pretty much step by step this weekend. I managed to get mine on the driver side indent with some reconfiguration.
Hey Tom, I have a 2019 Forester that I modified for off-road too! My car came with a 12v plug back there, but I replaced it with a panel like yours. Mine has all four in a row. Thanks for this great video! I am thinking about adding a second battery in my spare tire area. I too have upsized tires that don't fit the spare area. Going to check out your other videos now . . . check out mine too!
I've seen your channel actually. You replied to one of my comments inquiring about the Daniel Boone trail (thanks so much for that by the way). I love the RC airplane stuff too. I dabbled in that a bit but never got deep into after I got a citation for flying in a completely safe and unpopulated area that happened to have a rule against it. Such is the case with most places near me unfortunately. You got your PPL (Private Pilot License)? That's another thing on my bucket list. Have a few hours stick time, but that's about it. If you install a 2nd battery system, definitely post that on your channel! I love seeing other folk's mods. Thanks for watching!
@@TomtheDilettante Hey Tom, it looks like you have a couple new electrical videos that I need to watch. I don't have my PPL, I was just flying with my friend. I need to do a walk around video like yours next.
This is super cool. I just bought a 2021 Crosstrek, and there's a few mods (interior and exterior) that I would definitely like to do.. but I'm opting to wait until the warranty runs out. It sucks to wait, but I'd rather do that then something break and the dealership blame that. Would love to have something like this in the back though.
Great video. Love your demeanor. Very calm and clear. You’ve inspired me to do something similar in my outback. Your video will help me improve my ham radio installation by hiding wires a little better.
WOW! This is awesome but DAYAM!! Do you do home delivery on-site work? LOL! Well done. I'm not this brave and my CT is too new lol. Seriously though, this is superb!
Thanks for making this dude! I bought a 2019 Limited last year, Crystal White Pearl, and I was looking into some options of having an inverter or some additional power to the rear. I came to the right place!
Hi Kyle, thanks for watching! Glad I can help and congrats on the new Crosstrek! I think an inverter is something I'm missing too, but I'm toying around with the idea of getting a Jackery portable power station for something to use both in the car, and at a campsite. Have a good one!
@@zero86ea hey there! Happy to provide an update. Anything in particular you'd like to hear about? I did end up getting a Jackery power station that I plug into this panel. Can also share how I've used this so far on different trips. Any other thoughts / requests? Thanks for watching!
@@TomtheDilettante would like to know the hole setup. Also, if it would be better adding a second battery to the car instead of the jackery. And also solar on the roof rack. Man i love ur channel so far dude!!
Thanks for the video tutorial. I've been wanting to install some outlets back there. I've already ripped off all those panels a few times to install better hatch lights and a hatch opening button. Your filming angles and description are far superior to the other video guides I've used! Question- since doing this project, have you learned of a different/better place to cross the wires over to the passenger side other than around the very back of the car?
Thanks for watching and the kind words! If I had to do it all over again, I would have just run the wires down the passenger side of the car. It realized too late that the panel wasn't going to fit well on the driver side and ended up just crossing the wires over out of laziness (not gunna lie) LOL.
Thanks! It came in real handy last camping trip. Plugged my portable refrigerator into it on the road, and it was a great phone charging station when hanging out by the hatch. A handy mod for just about any hatchback IMO. Take care!
That was a lot of work I have Subaru 2019 cross trek was thinking of doing something like that . That is a pretty cool setup looks like it came with the car Great mod Tom . Thanks
It’s actually less work than I expected. Tom just did a diligent job of explaining every step. I just did mine yesterday and it only took a couple of hours.
Tom, I also want to have a rear power outlet for a cooler. I have been watching your UA-cam on running power, however I am in Australia, and my XV is right hand drive (Japan built). From my research our vehicles are totally identical but having the steering on the right the fuse box is also on the right, The only difference is the dashboard and firewall, (mirror image). How difficult is to remove the back where you placed your outlet, and Im assuming lifting the floor and centre lining will be the same. Very instructional.
Tom great video!! I have a 2017 Crosstrek and I’m building it out similar to yours. I’m getting ready to install a Yasue 6000 ham and I wondered if you ran yours straight to the battery or if you did it another way? I appreciate any feedback or suggestions! Al
@@TomtheDilettante just finished my project and honestly I did it pretty much the same way you did yours only thing different was that I did not have to remove the pillar by the driver side seat belt just snaked it through
Awesome!! Always brings a smile to my face to learn something I did can help another. Hope you get as much use out of it as I have. Thanks for taking the time to share!
Have you thought about adding a unit like this to the back of the center console? Adding this sure would be nice for any back seat riders wanting to charge or use USB electronics.
that's a really cool idea! hmmm...now I'll have to learn how to take that part apart to see how much room Subaru left us to do such a thing. If I do end up giving this a shot, I'll totally be crediting you with the idea. thanks! :)
For sure! I run a small 12v refrigerator only when on the road with the engine running. When at camp I use a Jackery 500 which has so far done a nice job. Thanks for watching!
Another awesome project! Question: at 13:35 you can see a small connector taped off with purple & black wire from the factory. It's almost right where you installed this. Do you know what this is for?
Great project, thanks for the idea, now on minute 14:30 I noticed what looks like LED lights on your hatch, can you show us how you did it and what did you chose to do the install?, thanks!!!
Thanks for watching! That's actually an LED wand / flashlight that I stuck to the hatch using a strong velcro tape. The idea was to have it as an accessory light that is detachable if needed. It worked for a while in the city, but the minute I went offroading and jostled the hell out of everything, the velcro's adhesive backing failed. So...back to the drawing board on that idea. Others have done some LED installs, and I might still do it, but for some reason I liked the idea of something I could detach :) If I figure out a good solution, I'll share it here first to be sure.
Thanks so much for the tutorial. I been looking up and down of a proper way to connect to my fuse box. You showed that plus the panels which was amazing. Do you know which fuse number I need to put? Or a simple explanation on that?
Thanks for watching and glad you found it helpful! As for which fuse, it shouldn't really matter since the way I did it with the fuse tap was to retain the original fuse in the original circuit and just add a circuit with a new fuse. My approach is to tap into any "non-essential" fuse like an accessory, radio, or dome light fuse or something. In other words, I wouldn't tap into ignition or eyesight. Not that I would expect anything to go wrong, but just one less thing to worry about. Anyway, if you liked this one, you might like my next video which I should be posting today (3/9/2021). I added a smaller, but similar power panel to the back of the center console for power to the rear seat ;)
I installed the same in my F150, but just 2 outlets. What I discovered after the fact, is that the cigarette outlet is not like a normal one. When I plug in my refrigerator or mini air compressor, the connection is very loose and could easily fall out.
Just finishing up this project. Great Idea. I'm using that same empty fuse slot, but it only works with 2 10amp fuses? I also only used 16 g wire since that is the gauge of the tap and the outlet. Now I'm thinking of changing it to 14g. 😩
I think you can put any amp fuse in there but I don't know the max rating for that slot I'm afraid. I put the OEM fuse in the tap's slot for the circuit I was tapping to keep the same fuse in place. 16ga wire should be good for 10 amps as far as I know. So the 16ga wire combined with a 10 amp fuse should be good, but do please consult some wire charts to be sure as I believe max current also varies on the length of wire used. Anyway, it all depends on what you plan on doing with that socket. I use mine to charge phones, top off my Jacker Explorer 500, and power my 12v refrigerator. I haven't exceeded 10 amp draw so haven't had any problems. If you're looking to run something that pulls a lot more current (say, an air compressor) then you may need to beef up the fuse and wiring. Hope that helps a little. Thanks for watching and good luck!
I did this mod and "just to be safe" used 12 AWG to run the length of the car crimped it to a 14AWG fuse tap (www.delcity.net/store/Mini-Low-Profile-Fuse-Adapter/p_810069.h_810070.r_IF1003) and 14AWG for the panel wiring. I also ran 2 extra 14AWG wires the length of the car and left little coils behind panels on each end for future mods (?) so that I won't have to take all the paneling off again. I was thinking about eventually putting rear fog lights or rear spot lights in the bumper reflectors with one of those wires. Maybe @Tom the Dilettante would try this first to show us the best way.
Thanks so much for the tutorial! Definitely something I'm going to try! Could I ask what gauge wire you used? Also does this wiring allow you to draw power while the car is off?
Thanks for watching and glad you liked it? I would suggest 14ga wire for a typical 15 amp 12v socket. I would not suggest anything less. Might even want to opt for 12ga to be extra safe. As for drawing power while the car is off, if you wire the hot lead to a constant hot as I did in the fuse block, then yes, you can use the switch on the panel to turn it on and off independent of the ignition. Caution though, if you run it to a constant hot, you run the risk of draining your battery if you leave something plugged into the panel drawing power. Hope that helps!
I ran 12 gauge high temp wire from the fuse box to the panel. For the jumpers in the panel I used 16 gauge wire since you have to shove 2 wires into the crimp terminal lug
@@dvjbdjcvrvbv Nice! You can't go wrong with a thicker ga wire...especially over long runs so well done! Hope you find it as useful as I have. Congrats!
@@TomtheDilettante honestly main reason why I did it was because I’m planing on getting a refrigerator cooler also when we go camping I hate having to go through the front of the car to get power to inflate my air mattress etc.
@@dvjbdjcvrvbv I hear ya. I powered my fridge with this thing too on a recent camping trip. If you haven't already, be sure to test everything as you'll have it before you hit the road. Few things suck as bad as finding out a mod didn't work as planned only after you're away from your tools (1 hint as to how I know that). If you're thinking of powering your fridge while the car is not running, keep in mind some fridges will shut off if they're not receiving a certain voltage (as your battery depletes for example). For this reason, I've started using a Jackery 500 which has a regulated 12v supply. I plug the fridge into the Jackery and the Jackery into this panel to keep it topped off. Anyway, enough unsolicited advice from me LOL. Stay safe and have a great time camping next time you get around to it!
This is great! I’m following your lead. Also, wondering if the spare tire shown in this vid works with your larger tires? I have a lifted trek as well, and was trying to find a spare for city driving without having to carry my extra full size wheel.
Thanks for watching. The OEM spare is not recommended for use with oversize tires. Its my understanding that the different diameter will mess up the awd system. I carry a full size spare. Its a little cumbersome to lug around but a good peace of mind to have just in case.
I would've tapped into the power line of the trailer hitch power. from what I heard its constant power when the car is off and its located near the drivers taillight.
That's a good idea. I hadn't thought of that. If it tests out as constant hot and is wired in such a way that it can carry the desired load, the that should work.
Couldn't hurt. The drawback to a direct-wire panel like this is draining the battery if you accidentally leave it on. A relay to power the panel using an ignition hot would prevent this. I wanted the ability to have power independent of ignition (i.e., charging a phone while sleeping in Crosstrek, constant hot to 12v fridge so it doesn't cycle off and on every time I turn off the car, etc...). I would say it all depends on your intended use and ability to remember not to leave the power on :)
Thank you for the nice video. I have a 2007 impreza. There is a harness for power outlets that is not connected in the trunk. I was wondering if I can use this kit to connect to.
Thanks for watching! As for your harness, I'd be remiss to say one way or another as I'm unfamiliar with what it might be. I would test it to see if you have 12v at it, if it's ignition or constant hot, check what gauge wires feed it, and try to identify what circuit it's on. If it has power, then your part way there. Before using it though, you'll want to know what it can be used for and that's where checking what gauge wire is behind it, and what circuit it's on (what fuse? anything else on the same circuit?) is important. Hope that makes sense and helps a little. Sorry I can't say for sure one way or another.
Thank you sir for helping me. When I check in the manual the harness is connected to rear accessory relay that is connected to 20A fuse. The harness (R32 2 wires) has a ground black wire and blue wire. Do subaru has a standard for the wire color versus the gauge. I am not sure about the crosstrek; but in the 2007 impreza I found Subaru has the tendency to include many unconnected harness that can be used if the correct accessory is bought. I connected my rear trailer harness using the outback harness without any issue even though when I called them; they always say it is not for this model. Same thing for the rear light. But all of this can be seen in their wiring diagram; this is how I figured out the outlet and came across your video. The circuit is connect to front socket, Body Integrated Unit, TCM, compass mirror, mirror and intercooler switch and timer.(FB-27). Wire can fit 12 gauge with insulation. Voltage was present with only ignition key is on
Picked up a 2021 Crosstrek. Struggling with where to mount my phone. Love your ram mount seat wedge. Can you share the model number? On there website I don't see the one that has a compartment to put things in like your showing. Thanks in advance
Sure, no prob. The one I got was or my ham radio setup. I kept the base and just attached a phone ram mount instead. The base I moved to my ram mount on the dash for the radio. www.lidomounts.com/page/subpage/hamradiomounts/lm-wedge.htm Part number: 609239637591 You can see this in more detail on my 1-year walk around video where I leave the part number as well: ua-cam.com/video/m_MfJQ0JKvg/v-deo.html Hope this helps and thanks for watching!
Haha....good eye! Yeah, at the time of this video, I had only recently purchased a full size spare and hadn't yet taken the OEM "donut" out of the well. Since then, I've reclaimed this space for storage. I'll do a show and tell on what I've got going on in there in my next walk-around video (thinking of an 18 month update within the next month). Nothing special in there now. Just some emergency gear.
Found em on Amazon for like $15! Love em! Non-Affiliated Link: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KXN7LE6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Affiliated Link (same thing, same price, but I would get a commission): amzn.to/2PuX6H4
Is there a reason you didn't use the 12V from the hatch latch button? Just curious if that would've made it easier than running it from the fuse block. Great tutorials!
Good question. My reason was that the existing 12v lines to things like the hatch release or the lights weren't of a high enough gauge to carry the current I planned for devices connected to this panel. In addition to wanting to ensure I hade a thick enough wire to accommodate planned current draw, I also wanted a dedicated circuit / fuse to this panel so it could operate and/or fail independent of any other vehicle system. Right, wrong, or otherwise, that was my thought process. Hope that helps! Thanks for watching :)
@@TomtheDilettante I saw you couldn't remember if you used 12 or 14 gauge wire. Can you share what kind of TAP / add a circuit you used? For mini-ATC I can't find anything larger than 16 gauge. The only 12AWG are with full sized ATC fuses. What did you use for that part?
Found this eventually: www.delcity.net/store/Mini-Low-Profile-Fuse-Adapter/p_810069.h_810070.r_IF1003 And based upon this chart, for 10A, at least and the approx 10foot run, you'd need at least 14AWG, if you want to prevent voltage drop: thirdgens.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/02/DC_wire_selection_chartlg.jpg
Hey Tom and community - i did yhis mod a while ago after watching your video. On a recent trip from NM to CA earlier this summer l was driving along with my refrigerator hooked up and powered thru this set up and I smelled burning plastic about 1 hour into day 2. The smell passed and i thought it was just something I drove thru in Bakersfield. Turns out the switch, rated for 20A was cooked and acted like a fuse. Luckily, no fire... I have since replaced with same switch. Just wondering of anyone has experienced something similar with this product... Thanks!
Yikes! Sorry to hear that. Were you running equipment that pulled a large amount of current combined? If you put a heavy load on smaller circuitry, that can definitely cause a problem. Or, it could have been a bad switch / high resistance. I'm no electrician so maybe someone else can offer an idea. Regardless, glad you're safe and nothing was damaged other than the switch. Any issues since?
Thanks for watching and for the kind words! Not a professional engineer...more of an amateur engineer (if there is such a thing) LOL. I've always been a "hands on" learner and lately I just thought sharing the stuff I'd be doing normally on UA-cam would be a fun thing to do :)
most lights like the hatch light run very thin gauge wire and would not be suitable for meaningful power consumption. My advice is to consider what you plan to power with a panel like this, and choose your wiring accordingly. Bluesea has a nice article and chart to help determine what gauge wire to use for what length run and power draw (link below). In addition to wire choice, be sure to tap into and fuse power accordingly. For example, you would not want to tap a 2.5 amp fuse for a 10 amp panel and use more than 2.5 amps. Hope that helps! www.bluesea.com/support/articles/Circuit_Protection/1437/Part_1%3A_Choosing_the_Correct_Wire_Size_for_a_DC_Circuit
depends on how much power the fridge draws, the capacity, condition and age of your battery, and some other things. Figure an average car battery has a capacity of 60 amp hours (or 720 watt hours at 12v). For simplicity sake, let's say your fridge draws 72 watts, then you'd get approximately 10 hours (72 watts x 10 hours = 720 watt hours) of use before the battery is dead. Keep in mind though, that would leave you with a dead car battery and a car that won't start. I personally use a portable power station for my fridge and accessories that I charge from this panel as needed. That way I don't risk accidentally draining the main car battery. I also recommend carrying a jumper box just in case. If anyone is like me and has a tendency to forget something is drawing from the car battery, a jumper box can be a real a$$ saver :). hope that helps. Thanks for watching and have a good one!
To be honest, I'm not sure. Never taken apart a previous gen XV. I would imagine it's very similar though. If you're definitely looking to do this, I would suggest just starting with taking one of the rear panels off to see what room you have. For the rest, the basic principles should apply to just about any vehicle. Tap into a power source that can handle the desired amperage, run a suitable wire gauge for power and ground, and install the panel in a place it has enough room. Sorry I can't be more specific, but I also don't want to mislead you by presuming too much. To be honest, that's how I did it. I just took off a panel and said "yeah...I bet it will fit there" and the rest became a video LOL. Hope that helps a little and best of luck if you give it a shot! I've been super happy with it in my car for sure.
If you're referring to the 2 spare tires, that was just temporary. At the time of this video, I had only recently purchased a full size spare and hadn't yet taken the OEM "donut" out of the well. Since then, I've reclaimed this space for storage.
@@TomtheDilettante So your positive wire comes from the fuse box (Red wire) and the negative wire comes from the ground (Black wire)? I hope I'm getting this right? 😅
@@jamest7727 Correct. Power (red) routed from fuse block tap to the panel. Ground lead (black) from panel to chasis ground. I piggy-backed an existing grounding point I found behind the interior panel. The most important thing to do is make sure the gauge wire and fuse you use is up to whatever you plan on using the panel for. For example, I planned to use this panel to power my 12v refrigerator / cooler which pulls about 3-5 amps so I ran either 12ga or 14ga (can't remember) and used a 10 amp fuse in the tap. Hope that helps and makes sense.
Lazy. LOL! I pull it when I'm going on a trip to create extra storage, but when at home, I just keep the spare in there because I don't want it taking up space (I don't have much room). Sooner or later I'll need to come up with a creative use for that space. open to ideas :)
Possibly but I didn't see any wires of sufficient gauge to support the intended current draw i had in mind, and my personal preference was to have this panel on a dedicated fuse.
Fair question. Could have done that but the existing light circuit is low amperage and wouldn't have been able to support most of what I wanted to use this for (e.g. refrigerator, ham radio, jackery charger etc...). I tapped into wires without consideration of their gauge back in my jeep days and ended up melting wires lol. So, consider this choice based on previous experience. :-)
Tom the Dilettante you're a genius... i wish Subaru didn't cheap out on the Crosstrek as they have a 12v plug in most rear cargo area on the Forester current and past generations. Love the video keep them coming... i just bought an '19 Crosstrek sport m6 can't wait! Your videos are inspiring, keep up the great tutorials for us noobs!
Thanks for watching and the kind words! Yeah, the lack of a power panel in the back seemed like such a missed opportunity for Subaru. It drove me nuts :) I'll try to keep coming up with nifty mods to share!
One of the best how-to mods I have seen which pays attention to safely and properly wiring a circuit. Please consider posting more links in the SubaruXV forums-maybe get this stickied. Glad I found yours.
Very kind of you to say. Thanks for the feedback. This was actually my 1st video and I learned a lot. Some folks from the XV forum gave some good feedback (like the correction I added to the description). I'm still learning, and in hindsight I wish I had spent more time sharing best practices with respect to selecting wire gauge and what not. I just started this all over the summer for the fun of it. I like tinkering and video editing and figured I'd try to share stuff I find interesting with the communities from whom I've learned so much. Thanks for watching and keep the feedback (positive or constructive) coming. Much appreciated!
Hello Tom!
Popped in to say this is the best pannel-popping video I've ever seen in my life.
As a future Crosstrek/XV owner myself, I want to say thank you from the bottom of my heart as I'll also put a 12V socket in the trunk.
Thanks so much! And good luck with your future Crosstrek! This was one of my first mods, and to this day it's one of the mods I use the most. Wish Subaru had thought to put power back there in my generation / model, but then again...where would be the "fun" in that? :P
@@TomtheDilettante 💪
I only plan to mount a standard 12V socket there, with no voltage indicator, USB, or switch. Thus leaving space for other additions, maybe an extra trunk light.
I was also planning to mount a USB charger for the rear seats/passengers, and seeing that you have a tutorial also for that is delightful!
Finally, a q̶u̶e̶s̶t̶i̶o̶n̶ series of questions I have for you: do you always keep your ScanGauge plugged in? Does it turn on and off with the ignition? Does it drain the battery in any way? Thanks in advance for your answer!
For someone new to UA-cam this was very professional IMO, thank you!
Just finished doing my Crosstrek. the video is easy to follow thank you!!
Incredibly helpful, thank you! About to do this in my Wilderness. I was so disappointed to find no plug in the trunk. I want forward and rear-facing dashcams and now I'll have wires running all over my backseat.
Great information and content but I will make 1 suggestion.
Dont tap into ANY power supply to ANY safety feature. Especially eyesight. I worked for Subaru for years and that system can have some crazy issues with altered current/voltage.
Plus if the system doesn't work and upon checking the eyesight is modified in any way, you could potentially end up with liability issues.
Other than that keep up the great work!!!!!
Another great video guide Tom. I installed mine today, and did the hatch push button a couple of weeks ago. Thank you kind Sir, keep up the good work!!
This is great! Love this idea. Now I just need to muster up the courage to pull my car apart and give it a try. Thanks for the guide!
Glad you enjoyed it! Been a great mod for me so far. No regrets. It's not too difficult. The only real "pucker moment" is when you start making holes LOL! No going back once you start. Good luck with yours and have a good one!
Well done, great tutorial / watch along as you figure this all out. Quite an educational video.
Dear Tom,
I recently purchased a 2019 Subaru Crosstrek Premium and I absolutely love it, However, like you, I feel the need to install an additional 12 V power source in the rear cargo area as I keep a Jackery 550 when I go on long road trips/camping trips to recharge my laptop, cellphone, and other USB rechargeable devices. Recently, I found this item on Amazon. I especially like it because it gives both a standard USB connection and a “C” connection as well as the 12 V cigarette lighter type plug. (Kohree 12V Power Outlet Socket, 3 in 1 200W Cigarette Lighter Socket with PD Type C 3.0 & QC 3.0 USB Charger Waterproof for Marine, Car, RV, Motorcycle, Boat, Golf, ATV, etc) It’s manufactured by: Kohree.
Anyways, I’m looking forward to installing other mods on my Crosstrek officially known as Katydid.
Thanks so much for creating the video that included so much detail on removing inner trim pieces, routing the wiring and all the other many suggestions and precautionary steps. I look ok forward to any future videos. Again, thanks.
Don “Wolf”. S.
I appreciate your video. I just did a very similar install on my 2023 Crosstrek Base. The power station I used is very similar but only a 3 hole setup instead of the 4 holes your's has. The only things I did differently was I ran my wire following the fuel door release cable, just behind the seats to get the wire to the same spot as you ended up and I just drilled 3 separate holes instead of one large one to mount the charging station.
Soon I'll be adding USB and USB-C ports inside my center console.
Nice!! It's a great addition to the Crosstrek isn't it? Glad it worked out for you and well done!
@@TomtheDilettante Absolutely. My wife and I are planning a lower 48 state road trip with the Crosstrek and a 5x8 teardrop camper. This extra power panel will be great for keeping the 12V fridge plugged in while driving and it'll also help our 12V air pump reach the camper tires, because the cord doesn't reach from the center console.
I have done similar builds in my older cars. I just bought a new Crostrek. I would love to do this. I have the experience. But I also have experience in breaking things. Can't muster the guts to do it. I'll just throw my 300w power station back there and call it a day.
That is definitely a viable and practical alternative. I was nervous as hell cutting into my brand new car too but I figured "what the heck" LOL. Thanks for watching!
Hey Tom, got my kit in a few weeks ago and planning to tackle this project this weekend. Really appreciate your posting and willingness to walk us through your process and the hiccups along the way. I've done a few electrical mods for lighting based on StarDude's postings, but find the Crosstrek is lacking power past the center console hidden lighter outlet (MY18).
Based on the great comments by viewers I think I'm going to use 14ga wire and a hole saw as my only change to your process.
I'll post if I have anymore ideas or snags along the way. Again, great idea, thanks for posting and willingness to walk through the entire process!
Awesome! Glad other viewer comments helped craft your approach as well! They definitely had some good ideas that I would have adopted in hindsight. My way is certainly not THE way and I'll be the 1st person to encourage adopting methods from others and improving upon them. Best of luck to you! I hope it turns out awesome and you are happy with it! Glad I could be of some help :)
Looks really good Tom. I'm going to move the panel mounted light to the headliner above the cargo area as it used to be in previous generations of my car (Forester)
You’re fearless! 😎👍
Very nicely done. You have a great natural presentation style. Well-spoken and logical thinking. I'm looking forward to viewing other vids you've done and making some of your mods. This one especially. Thanks again. Good work!
Thanks very much! Glad you enjoyed it. This channel and my tinkering with UA-cam is just a few months old, but I'm having a lot of fun with it so far. Nice to hear people are actually enjoying the content LOL.
Thank you so much for posting this. I am not installing this unit you have here but am upgrading my speakers and seeing how you remove the panels will prove invaluable! Thanks again and good luck with your Subi! I just got a 2021 Trek Sport and absolutely love it....except the woeful speakers!
Glad it was helpful! If there are any other panels that you're thinking of removing that I didn't cover, let me know. Chances are I've pulled them already and would be happy to do a quick tutorial to help you and others out. I spent quite a bit of time looking how to remove panels on UA-cam, and when I came up empty, I just started pulling things LOL. So far so good. I have a video on installing a Ram track mount that shows how to remove the air vents and top plate from around the head unit. Might be helpful if you plan on tinkering around behind the radio.
Thanks for watching and have a good one!
@@TomtheDilettante That's good to know....I will definitely be checking that out! The speakers get in tomorrow so I've got a nice weekend project ahead of me. Thanks again, Tom.....really appreciate your efforts on here!
Love the crosstrek videos. Just started watching as I just bought a 2014. With the amount of wiring you do for mods, I seriously suggest getting a ratcheting crimp tool for your connections as opposed to the hand crimper. Way easy to o and the connections are MUCH more secure.
I think you're right. I've heard good things about ratcheting crimp tools much like you said and I think I'm gunna have to get one. knowing myself though, once I get one, I'm going to be compelled to re-do ALL my wiring because...well...why not? LOL
Thanks for the great video. I just completed it myself. So nice to be able to run my air compressor without opening the hood to attach leads to the battery terminals. The only thing I did different was when it came to cutting the hole in the panel. I made a template out of card stock that was exactly the right size and used that to draw where the hole would go. I’ve got a multi-tool oscillating saw that went right through the plastic panel like butter. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for sharing your experience! Sounds like you did a more thoughtful job than I with the cardboard template! That's good though...if I can't show people what to do, I'm happy to show what NOT to do LOL! Not sure what kind of wiring you ran, so if you haven't already, please be sure to ensure the fuse tap and wire gauge you used is sufficient for the current draw of your compressor. In my case, I have a Viair 400P which came with a 40amp inline fuse. Assuming the unit draws even 3/4 of that, I'd have needed to use 10ga wire and possibly a heavier duty fuse tap. So I still end up popping the hood to connect it to the battery terminals, but I hope to permanently mount that compressor in my spare tire well with a dedicated relay sometime soon. Just gotta figure out the pneumatic plumbing :) Anyway, pardon the ramble, but hope that helps and thanks for watching!
@@TomtheDilettante I’ve just got a little Vivair 85P which is only draws 14 Amps peak and is fused at 15 amps. I ran 12 gauge wire to the fuse panel. It’s a tiny compressor but I don’t air down that often. Worst case I’ll have to wait a little for it to cool between tires. It fills from15 psi to 30 psi pretty quick. Thanks again and thanks for following up on the amperage and wire gauge.
What kind of wire did you run along the length of the car?
I put rain guards on. Scary. Good job. I like it
Your cutouts are wrong. You are supposed to drill out circular holes for each receptacle. The plate only has 4 screws. You don't drill out the whole area for the plate, it weakens the backing.
I was thinking of putting the same panel in my Crosstrek. Seems like it would be really handy.
Definitely handy. No regrets so far. Great for keeping a refrigerator running on the road or for charging up things like battery packs, etc... I wired mine to a constant hot so need to be careful not to leave something plugged in too long when the engine is off. I'm sure there's a fuse to tap into that's ignition hot which could be used as well. Good luck!
Awesome, defiantly sounds like an upgrade for me :)
This was an awesome video. Managed to copy this pretty much step by step this weekend. I managed to get mine on the driver side indent with some reconfiguration.
Can't add a photo though to show it.
Did your rear hatch button today. Worked like a charm. Thank you
Awesome! Well done! Glad it was helpful.
Hey Tom, I have a 2019 Forester that I modified for off-road too! My car came with a 12v plug back there, but I replaced it with a panel like yours. Mine has all four in a row. Thanks for this great video! I am thinking about adding a second battery in my spare tire area. I too have upsized tires that don't fit the spare area. Going to check out your other videos now . . . check out mine too!
I've seen your channel actually. You replied to one of my comments inquiring about the Daniel Boone trail (thanks so much for that by the way). I love the RC airplane stuff too. I dabbled in that a bit but never got deep into after I got a citation for flying in a completely safe and unpopulated area that happened to have a rule against it. Such is the case with most places near me unfortunately. You got your PPL (Private Pilot License)? That's another thing on my bucket list. Have a few hours stick time, but that's about it. If you install a 2nd battery system, definitely post that on your channel! I love seeing other folk's mods. Thanks for watching!
@@TomtheDilettante Hey Tom, it looks like you have a couple new electrical videos that I need to watch. I don't have my PPL, I was just flying with my friend. I need to do a walk around video like yours next.
This is super cool. I just bought a 2021 Crosstrek, and there's a few mods (interior and exterior) that I would definitely like to do.. but I'm opting to wait until the warranty runs out. It sucks to wait, but I'd rather do that then something break and the dealership blame that.
Would love to have something like this in the back though.
Great video. Love your demeanor. Very calm and clear.
You’ve inspired me to do something similar in my outback.
Your video will help me improve my ham radio installation by hiding wires a little better.
Awesome! Glad to hear it, and thanks for watching! Outback is a nice rig! Should be a lot of fun to tinker with :)
Nice led flares time stamp 11.22 I have multiple sets in different cars I use for work
WOW! This is awesome but DAYAM!! Do you do home delivery on-site work? LOL! Well done. I'm not this brave and my CT is too new lol. Seriously though, this is superb!
That release cable running in the back is most likely your fuel door release cable.
Nice DYI video btw.
you're absolutely right. I think I new it at the time too but had a camera brain fart :P Thanks for watching!
Thanks for making this dude! I bought a 2019 Limited last year, Crystal White Pearl, and I was looking into some options of having an inverter or some additional power to the rear. I came to the right place!
Hi Kyle, thanks for watching! Glad I can help and congrats on the new Crosstrek! I think an inverter is something I'm missing too, but I'm toying around with the idea of getting a Jackery portable power station for something to use both in the car, and at a campsite. Have a good one!
@@TomtheDilettante update us on this! Please and thanks
@@zero86ea hey there! Happy to provide an update. Anything in particular you'd like to hear about? I did end up getting a Jackery power station that I plug into this panel. Can also share how I've used this so far on different trips. Any other thoughts / requests? Thanks for watching!
@@TomtheDilettante would like to know the hole setup. Also, if it would be better adding a second battery to the car instead of the jackery. And also solar on the roof rack. Man i love ur channel so far dude!!
@@TomtheDilettante also show us your current setup with the jackery.
Cool. I get my Crosstrek on monday 1/31/22. I'm looking at your content for ideas and application
Thanks for the video tutorial. I've been wanting to install some outlets back there. I've already ripped off all those panels a few times to install better hatch lights and a hatch opening button. Your filming angles and description are far superior to the other video guides I've used! Question- since doing this project, have you learned of a different/better place to cross the wires over to the passenger side other than around the very back of the car?
Thanks for watching and the kind words! If I had to do it all over again, I would have just run the wires down the passenger side of the car. It realized too late that the panel wasn't going to fit well on the driver side and ended up just crossing the wires over out of laziness (not gunna lie) LOL.
I just made it. Thanks for the video! Working great!!!
That setup will be handy, nice job
Thanks! It came in real handy last camping trip. Plugged my portable refrigerator into it on the road, and it was a great phone charging station when hanging out by the hatch. A handy mod for just about any hatchback IMO. Take care!
That was a lot of work I have Subaru 2019 cross trek was thinking of doing something like that . That is a pretty cool setup looks like it came with the car Great mod Tom . Thanks
It’s actually less work than I expected. Tom just did a diligent job of explaining every step. I just did mine yesterday and it only took a couple of hours.
Your tutorial is awesome.
This is great man, some great, practical mods to tackle on my own Crosstrek!
Thank you, and thanks for watching! Good luck with your mods!
Tom, I also want to have a rear power outlet for a cooler. I have been watching your UA-cam on running power, however I am in Australia, and my XV is right hand drive (Japan built). From my research our vehicles are totally identical but having the steering on the right the fuse box is also on the right, The only difference is the dashboard and firewall, (mirror image). How difficult is to remove the back where you placed your outlet, and Im assuming lifting the floor and centre lining will be the same. Very instructional.
Very cool! Great detail. I been wanting to do this for awhile. Impressive for a first video
Really enjoy your video's alot of really helpful information and they are fun to watch as well. Keep up the good work!!
Tom great video!! I have a 2017 Crosstrek and I’m building it out similar to yours. I’m getting ready to install a Yasue 6000 ham and I wondered if you ran yours straight to the battery or if you did it another way? I appreciate any feedback or suggestions!
Al
Doing this same set up this weekend 👍 thanks for the detailed info!!! U da best
Awesome! good luck! If you find a better way to do it than I did, please share. I kinda made this one up as I went along...but it worked so.... :)
@@TomtheDilettante for sure! will share if I find a alternate solution
@@TomtheDilettante just finished my project and honestly I did it pretty much the same way you did yours only thing different was that I did not have to remove the pillar by the driver side seat belt just snaked it through
Just found your channel... This is awesome! Thanks for all the great information!
Thanks for watching! I'll try to keep at it :)
Thanks to your instruction I was able to accomplish this as well, thanks buddy!
Awesome!! Always brings a smile to my face to learn something I did can help another. Hope you get as much use out of it as I have. Thanks for taking the time to share!
Have you thought about adding a unit like this to the back of the center console? Adding this sure would be nice for any back seat riders wanting to charge or use USB electronics.
that's a really cool idea! hmmm...now I'll have to learn how to take that part apart to see how much room Subaru left us to do such a thing. If I do end up giving this a shot, I'll totally be crediting you with the idea. thanks! :)
Nice job, except you'll need a dual battery that is a deep cycle, in order to run a 12v fridge
For sure! I run a small 12v refrigerator only when on the road with the engine running. When at camp I use a Jackery 500 which has so far done a nice job. Thanks for watching!
@@TomtheDilettante I get that. I'm building my own solar powered generator because they are way better and way cheaper. Plus it's a super fun project
Great video and I like the step by step!!!!
Thanks so much! glad you liked it.
This is great! Really awesome work.
Great video! Doing this to my Crosstrek soon!
Thanks for watching! This is definitely one of my personal favorite and practical mods :) Good luck!
Great job, lots of great info. Thanks.
Another awesome project! Question: at 13:35 you can see a small connector taped off with purple & black wire from the factory. It's almost right where you installed this. Do you know what this is for?
Just realized you used the same grounding bolt as the connector I mentioned
Great project, thanks for the idea, now on minute 14:30 I noticed what looks like LED lights on your hatch, can you show us how you did it and what did you chose to do the install?, thanks!!!
Thanks for watching! That's actually an LED wand / flashlight that I stuck to the hatch using a strong velcro tape. The idea was to have it as an accessory light that is detachable if needed. It worked for a while in the city, but the minute I went offroading and jostled the hell out of everything, the velcro's adhesive backing failed. So...back to the drawing board on that idea. Others have done some LED installs, and I might still do it, but for some reason I liked the idea of something I could detach :) If I figure out a good solution, I'll share it here first to be sure.
Thanks so much for the tutorial. I been looking up and down of a proper way to connect to my fuse box. You showed that plus the panels which was amazing. Do you know which fuse number I need to put? Or a simple explanation on that?
Thanks for watching and glad you found it helpful! As for which fuse, it shouldn't really matter since the way I did it with the fuse tap was to retain the original fuse in the original circuit and just add a circuit with a new fuse. My approach is to tap into any "non-essential" fuse like an accessory, radio, or dome light fuse or something. In other words, I wouldn't tap into ignition or eyesight. Not that I would expect anything to go wrong, but just one less thing to worry about.
Anyway, if you liked this one, you might like my next video which I should be posting today (3/9/2021). I added a smaller, but similar power panel to the back of the center console for power to the rear seat ;)
I installed the same in my F150, but just 2 outlets. What I discovered after the fact, is that the cigarette outlet is not like a normal one. When I plug in my refrigerator or mini air compressor, the connection is very loose and could easily fall out.
hey this is nice upgrade that i will do just one thing if you can help me out,
what kind of wire did you use to get all over to the back?
thanks!!
Just finishing up this project. Great Idea. I'm using that same empty fuse slot, but it only works with 2 10amp fuses? I also only used 16 g wire since that is the gauge of the tap and the outlet. Now I'm thinking of changing it to 14g. 😩
I think you can put any amp fuse in there but I don't know the max rating for that slot I'm afraid. I put the OEM fuse in the tap's slot for the circuit I was tapping to keep the same fuse in place. 16ga wire should be good for 10 amps as far as I know. So the 16ga wire combined with a 10 amp fuse should be good, but do please consult some wire charts to be sure as I believe max current also varies on the length of wire used. Anyway, it all depends on what you plan on doing with that socket. I use mine to charge phones, top off my Jacker Explorer 500, and power my 12v refrigerator. I haven't exceeded 10 amp draw so haven't had any problems. If you're looking to run something that pulls a lot more current (say, an air compressor) then you may need to beef up the fuse and wiring.
Hope that helps a little. Thanks for watching and good luck!
I did this mod and "just to be safe" used 12 AWG to run the length of the car crimped it to a 14AWG fuse tap (www.delcity.net/store/Mini-Low-Profile-Fuse-Adapter/p_810069.h_810070.r_IF1003) and 14AWG for the panel wiring. I also ran 2 extra 14AWG wires the length of the car and left little coils behind panels on each end for future mods (?) so that I won't have to take all the paneling off again. I was thinking about eventually putting rear fog lights or rear spot lights in the bumper reflectors with one of those wires. Maybe @Tom the Dilettante would try this first to show us the best way.
Thanks so much for the tutorial! Definitely something I'm going to try! Could I ask what gauge wire you used? Also does this wiring allow you to draw power while the car is off?
Thanks for watching and glad you liked it? I would suggest 14ga wire for a typical 15 amp 12v socket. I would not suggest anything less. Might even want to opt for 12ga to be extra safe. As for drawing power while the car is off, if you wire the hot lead to a constant hot as I did in the fuse block, then yes, you can use the switch on the panel to turn it on and off independent of the ignition. Caution though, if you run it to a constant hot, you run the risk of draining your battery if you leave something plugged into the panel drawing power. Hope that helps!
I ran 12 gauge high temp wire from the fuse box to the panel. For the jumpers in the panel I used 16 gauge wire since you have to shove 2 wires into the crimp terminal lug
@@dvjbdjcvrvbv Nice! You can't go wrong with a thicker ga wire...especially over long runs so well done! Hope you find it as useful as I have. Congrats!
@@TomtheDilettante honestly main reason why I did it was because I’m planing on getting a refrigerator cooler also when we go camping I hate having to go through the front of the car to get power to inflate my air mattress etc.
@@dvjbdjcvrvbv I hear ya. I powered my fridge with this thing too on a recent camping trip. If you haven't already, be sure to test everything as you'll have it before you hit the road. Few things suck as bad as finding out a mod didn't work as planned only after you're away from your tools (1 hint as to how I know that). If you're thinking of powering your fridge while the car is not running, keep in mind some fridges will shut off if they're not receiving a certain voltage (as your battery depletes for example). For this reason, I've started using a Jackery 500 which has a regulated 12v supply. I plug the fridge into the Jackery and the Jackery into this panel to keep it topped off. Anyway, enough unsolicited advice from me LOL. Stay safe and have a great time camping next time you get around to it!
Great job! Clean install
This is great! I’m following your lead. Also, wondering if the spare tire shown in this vid works with your larger tires? I have a lifted trek as well, and was trying to find a spare for city driving without having to carry my extra full size wheel.
Thanks for watching. The OEM spare is not recommended for use with oversize tires. Its my understanding that the different diameter will mess up the awd system. I carry a full size spare. Its a little cumbersome to lug around but a good peace of mind to have just in case.
Ah, got it... I thought you might have bought an extra “donut” spare that was larger to match the larger tires. Yeah, I carry a full size too. Cheers!
Awesome how to video! Thank you!!
I would've tapped into the power line of the trailer hitch power. from what I heard its constant power when the car is off and its located near the drivers taillight.
That's a good idea. I hadn't thought of that. If it tests out as constant hot and is wired in such a way that it can carry the desired load, the that should work.
Can’t wait to do this!! Thanks!!
Awesome install! I’m copying it jajaja, but, is necessary or helpfull to run a relay?? To save the battery
Couldn't hurt. The drawback to a direct-wire panel like this is draining the battery if you accidentally leave it on. A relay to power the panel using an ignition hot would prevent this. I wanted the ability to have power independent of ignition (i.e., charging a phone while sleeping in Crosstrek, constant hot to 12v fridge so it doesn't cycle off and on every time I turn off the car, etc...). I would say it all depends on your intended use and ability to remember not to leave the power on :)
Can you tell me where I can buy and description of the wire you are running across the car?
Thank you for the nice video. I have a 2007 impreza. There is a harness for power outlets that is not connected in the trunk. I was wondering if I can use this kit to connect to.
Thanks for watching! As for your harness, I'd be remiss to say one way or another as I'm unfamiliar with what it might be. I would test it to see if you have 12v at it, if it's ignition or constant hot, check what gauge wires feed it, and try to identify what circuit it's on. If it has power, then your part way there. Before using it though, you'll want to know what it can be used for and that's where checking what gauge wire is behind it, and what circuit it's on (what fuse? anything else on the same circuit?) is important.
Hope that makes sense and helps a little. Sorry I can't say for sure one way or another.
Thank you sir for helping me. When I check in the manual the harness is connected to rear accessory relay that is connected to 20A fuse. The harness (R32 2 wires) has a ground black wire and blue wire. Do subaru has a standard for the wire color versus the gauge. I am not sure about the crosstrek; but in the 2007 impreza I found Subaru has the tendency to include many unconnected harness that can be used if the correct accessory is bought. I connected my rear trailer harness using the outback harness without any issue even though when I called them; they always say it is not for this model. Same thing for the rear light. But all of this can be seen in their wiring diagram; this is how I figured out the outlet and came across your video. The circuit is connect to front socket, Body Integrated Unit, TCM, compass mirror, mirror and intercooler switch and timer.(FB-27). Wire can fit 12 gauge with insulation. Voltage was present with only ignition key is on
New subscriber. Looking forward to the other vids. Nice job!
Welcome aboard! And thanks for watching! I'll try to keep the interesting stuff coming. At least the variety of stuff I find interesting anyway :)
Picked up a 2021 Crosstrek. Struggling with where to mount my phone. Love your ram mount seat wedge. Can you share the model number? On there website I don't see the one that has a compartment to put things in like your showing. Thanks in advance
Sure, no prob. The one I got was or my ham radio setup. I kept the base and just attached a phone ram mount instead. The base I moved to my ram mount on the dash for the radio.
www.lidomounts.com/page/subpage/hamradiomounts/lm-wedge.htm
Part number: 609239637591
You can see this in more detail on my 1-year walk around video where I leave the part number as well:
ua-cam.com/video/m_MfJQ0JKvg/v-deo.html
Hope this helps and thanks for watching!
heh, I soooooooooooooo wish you were near Spokane area :)
How much awg did you used looks like 14-16
I just noticed you still have your spare tire installed! Real Estate not being used? Added weight? Subject for a new video?
Haha....good eye! Yeah, at the time of this video, I had only recently purchased a full size spare and hadn't yet taken the OEM "donut" out of the well. Since then, I've reclaimed this space for storage. I'll do a show and tell on what I've got going on in there in my next walk-around video (thinking of an 18 month update within the next month). Nothing special in there now. Just some emergency gear.
Fine job brother
Does it ever die or is it always running since it’s wired into the car?
What gauge wire did you use
Good job, enjoyed your video!
I like the body tools you have for prying things loose, where do you find those?
Found em on Amazon for like $15! Love em!
Non-Affiliated Link: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KXN7LE6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Affiliated Link (same thing, same price, but I would get a commission): amzn.to/2PuX6H4
Nicely done man!
Thanks!
Is there a reason you didn't use the 12V from the hatch latch button? Just curious if that would've made it easier than running it from the fuse block. Great tutorials!
Good question. My reason was that the existing 12v lines to things like the hatch release or the lights weren't of a high enough gauge to carry the current I planned for devices connected to this panel. In addition to wanting to ensure I hade a thick enough wire to accommodate planned current draw, I also wanted a dedicated circuit / fuse to this panel so it could operate and/or fail independent of any other vehicle system. Right, wrong, or otherwise, that was my thought process. Hope that helps! Thanks for watching :)
@@TomtheDilettante All good reasons, thanks!
@@TomtheDilettante I saw you couldn't remember if you used 12 or 14 gauge wire. Can you share what kind of TAP / add a circuit you used? For mini-ATC I can't find anything larger than 16 gauge. The only 12AWG are with full sized ATC fuses. What did you use for that part?
Found this eventually: www.delcity.net/store/Mini-Low-Profile-Fuse-Adapter/p_810069.h_810070.r_IF1003
And based upon this chart, for 10A, at least and the approx 10foot run, you'd need at least 14AWG, if you want to prevent voltage drop: thirdgens.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/02/DC_wire_selection_chartlg.jpg
Keep it coming. I got the same car model and thinking about modding it. Maybe one day I'll do the same.
I use it on every extended road trip and while camping. No regrets for sure! Thanks for watching1
can you charge an electric skateboard of bike off of it ??
Hey Tom and community - i did yhis mod a while ago after watching your video. On a recent trip from NM to CA earlier this summer l was driving along with my refrigerator hooked up and powered thru this set up and I smelled burning plastic about 1 hour into day 2. The smell passed and i thought it was just something I drove thru in Bakersfield. Turns out the switch, rated for 20A was cooked and acted like a fuse. Luckily, no fire... I have since replaced with same switch. Just wondering of anyone has experienced something similar with this product... Thanks!
Yikes! Sorry to hear that. Were you running equipment that pulled a large amount of current combined? If you put a heavy load on smaller circuitry, that can definitely cause a problem. Or, it could have been a bad switch / high resistance. I'm no electrician so maybe someone else can offer an idea. Regardless, glad you're safe and nothing was damaged other than the switch. Any issues since?
Tom,
For some reason my voltage neater is reading 14 volts with a 10 amp fuse. Is this a problem if I’m using a 12v power adapter?
Nope. Most automotive systems run at near 14.4v while vehicle is running and charging. When vehicle is off you should be seeing about 12v and change.
Great job!
Tom, love your vids but that was a lot of work. Are you an engineer?
Thanks for watching and for the kind words! Not a professional engineer...more of an amateur engineer (if there is such a thing) LOL. I've always been a "hands on" learner and lately I just thought sharing the stuff I'd be doing normally on UA-cam would be a fun thing to do :)
Can i got power from the hatch light (of the driver side ?)
It’s 12V, and parellel the wire out for power
most lights like the hatch light run very thin gauge wire and would not be suitable for meaningful power consumption. My advice is to consider what you plan to power with a panel like this, and choose your wiring accordingly. Bluesea has a nice article and chart to help determine what gauge wire to use for what length run and power draw (link below). In addition to wire choice, be sure to tap into and fuse power accordingly. For example, you would not want to tap a 2.5 amp fuse for a 10 amp panel and use more than 2.5 amps. Hope that helps!
www.bluesea.com/support/articles/Circuit_Protection/1437/Part_1%3A_Choosing_the_Correct_Wire_Size_for_a_DC_Circuit
great install video!
Thanks! Glad you enjoyed it :)
So how long can you power something like a fridge with the car off before your car battery dies?
depends on how much power the fridge draws, the capacity, condition and age of your battery, and some other things. Figure an average car battery has a capacity of 60 amp hours (or 720 watt hours at 12v). For simplicity sake, let's say your fridge draws 72 watts, then you'd get approximately 10 hours (72 watts x 10 hours = 720 watt hours) of use before the battery is dead. Keep in mind though, that would leave you with a dead car battery and a car that won't start. I personally use a portable power station for my fridge and accessories that I charge from this panel as needed. That way I don't risk accidentally draining the main car battery. I also recommend carrying a jumper box just in case. If anyone is like me and has a tendency to forget something is drawing from the car battery, a jumper box can be a real a$$ saver :). hope that helps. Thanks for watching and have a good one!
I have a 2014 XV Crosstrek, would this mod be any different for mine?
To be honest, I'm not sure. Never taken apart a previous gen XV. I would imagine it's very similar though. If you're definitely looking to do this, I would suggest just starting with taking one of the rear panels off to see what room you have. For the rest, the basic principles should apply to just about any vehicle. Tap into a power source that can handle the desired amperage, run a suitable wire gauge for power and ground, and install the panel in a place it has enough room. Sorry I can't be more specific, but I also don't want to mislead you by presuming too much. To be honest, that's how I did it. I just took off a panel and said "yeah...I bet it will fit there" and the rest became a video LOL. Hope that helps a little and best of luck if you give it a shot! I've been super happy with it in my car for sure.
Dope! Thank you
Tom,
Do you have the link for the plate and switches? Thanks
Here's a link to the panel I used which came with the switches and sockets you see installed. Hope this helps!
amzn.to/3x0ZDcW
Thanks Tom!!
thanks for the video.
Which video do you explain why you have two tires? thx.
If you're referring to the 2 spare tires, that was just temporary. At the time of this video, I had only recently purchased a full size spare and hadn't yet taken the OEM "donut" out of the well. Since then, I've reclaimed this space for storage.
@@TomtheDilettante Thank you dude. Great channel. -73
Do I need 2 wires going towards the back (+ and -) or only 1? Seems like I only see 1 in your video.
I ran just power to the panel. I grounded the panel to a nearby chasis ground.
@@TomtheDilettante So your positive wire comes from the fuse box (Red wire) and the negative wire comes from the ground (Black wire)? I hope I'm getting this right? 😅
@@jamest7727 Correct. Power (red) routed from fuse block tap to the panel. Ground lead (black) from panel to chasis ground. I piggy-backed an existing grounding point I found behind the interior panel. The most important thing to do is make sure the gauge wire and fuse you use is up to whatever you plan on using the panel for. For example, I planned to use this panel to power my 12v refrigerator / cooler which pulls about 3-5 amps so I ran either 12ga or 14ga (can't remember) and used a 10 amp fuse in the tap. Hope that helps and makes sense.
@@TomtheDilettante Thanks for answering back! Yes it makes perfect sense.
Great video! Thanks for sharing. :)
Thanks for watching! This thing has proven very useful.
Why do you lug that Yokohama around when you have the full size spare?
Lazy. LOL! I pull it when I'm going on a trip to create extra storage, but when at home, I just keep the spare in there because I don't want it taking up space (I don't have much room). Sooner or later I'll need to come up with a creative use for that space. open to ideas :)
@@TomtheDilettante ok. Ya that makes sense. Not easy squeezing room out the CT.
Ya ever get finish up a project and then just really think about not putting all the panels back….like just sitting there trying to rationalize it
whats that plugged into the OBD2
That would be my ScanGuage II unit to provide real-time readouts of various sensors and the ability to view and clear engine codes as needed.
Couldn't tap into power in the rear anywhere?
Possibly but I didn't see any wires of sufficient gauge to support the intended current draw i had in mind, and my personal preference was to have this panel on a dedicated fuse.
@@TomtheDilettante So run to the fuse panel it is! lol Thanks
Why not just get power and ground from the light wire thats already ran back there and protected by a fuse
Fair question. Could have done that but the existing light circuit is low amperage and wouldn't have been able to support most of what I wanted to use this for (e.g. refrigerator, ham radio, jackery charger etc...). I tapped into wires without consideration of their gauge back in my jeep days and ended up melting wires lol. So, consider this choice based on previous experience. :-)
did you disconnect your battery before installing?
Yes. I make it a habit to always disconnect at least the negative terminal when working on electronics. Thanks for watching!