Hey bud I’m getting I-258 cuttings by sept. The only thing I’m concerned about is that I’m in Toronto and the weather isn’t gonna be great by the end of sept. Could I still get these cutting to root and then have more growth in a pot and then let it hit dormancy? I need a little help i don’t want these cuttings to go on me lol ur the reason why I purchased these cuttings lol. I got excited to have this variety. Also, do I have to put these bags in a dark place?
vito fall you can root the cuttings now, but if you do, you’ll probably want to keep them growing throughout the winter in a sunny window and treat them like a houseplant. It is risky to root them and then try to store them immediately after because you’re throwing off their circadian rhythm. If you root them, they think it is springtime. Rooting them in the fall means you probably want to keep them growing, either with a really sunny window or grow lights.
The Millennial Gardener I kind of figured it’s just I received the cuttings so late. Thanks for getting back to me. I rooted some cutting and I fig popped them but do I put them in a container as a humity box
I just cut some fresh branches coming from the base in late july and put them directly in soil in some small tomato growing cups and they all have roots now and newly grown leaves and buds did nothing just kept them in a shaded area and water tgem that's it
How exciting that you’ve made it into your new house!! I’m so glad of your progress in spite of all of the challenges you’ve faced lately. I look forward to following along this winter season. I’m wondering how we will fare weather wise this year. Hopefully it’s an easy winter considering what we’ve endured. Cheers and see you next video ☺️
Thanks! Now Hurricane Michael is bearing down on Florida and supposed to hit us with tropical storm force winds Thursday 😭. The hits keep coming! Be careful later this week. All it takes is one bad wind gust in the wrong direction to fall the wrong tree.
Same to you! This has been the wettest year I have experienced down here. Between how soaked the ground already is and the winds coming in definitely nervous about trees in our general area. Blessedly for us we don’t have any trees near our house. You be careful too!
Wilmington is on pace for 100 inches of rain this year 🤭 Be safe, conditions are supposed to begin deteriorating late Wednesday overnight and into Thursday AM.
I live in zone 9a in southeast Louisiana. What would be the optimum temp and humidity level to start fig cuttings? I am trying to figure out what time of year would be best to take cuttings in my area.
@5:32, that threw me off. I thought the cutting had gotten huge in the small containers and I kept replaying it trying to make sense of it ...then I realized it was a grown tree in the background...
Carlos Rivera it can if the cuttings aren’t fully dormant. It is more difficult with fully dormant cuttings. When the cuttings are dormant, I wait for the little bumps to form, then direct pot them. I suppose they could root, even when fully dormant, like this, but it could take a long time and there is a risk of rot keeping them in a damp bag for very very long.
Hope you can help diagnose fungus on my little fig cuttings. In November I made some cuttings from a small fig tree and followed your great instructions for rooting them in cups. A couple of them did well and have some leaves, though one seems to have a fungus of some sort. Hoping you might know what it is and what I can do to help the plant. I also wasn't sure if it is time to fertilize and for bigger pots. I thought I could link to photos, but I did that in the comment yesterday and the comment was deleted- is there a way I can send you a couple of photos? I'm in NJ and they have been inside the house since I started them, and it is just starting to get a little warm out, in the 50's only though, so I don't know if it would help to put them outside.
Hi. I see you propagated these during the Summer in August. Nice job. Can i also do the same around this time in december here in PA? Just to get the roots started in a baggie? Ill be pruning my fig tree/bush next month. Thanks
Generally, the winter is the best time to root figs. You want to root fully dormant cuttings because they are resistant to rot and send the most reliable roots. Now is peak cutting season. Figbid.com is totally flooded with options.
@@TheMillennialGardener Thanks, and thanks for the link too. Learining so much from you. I will be cutting a bunch today and get them started. So I guess I will keep them in indirect sunlight all Winter...Plant the rooted ones in a few weeks in a cup, and keep them in indirect sunlight indoors until Spring. Correct?
@@joerappa5278 yes, you generally want to keep your cuttings out of direct sunlight because sunlight could cause the cuttings to bud before roots grow, which could kill the cutting by absorbing the energy left inside it before roots can grow and feed the cutting. Just one thing to consider - if you start your cuttings now, and your frost doesn't end until April, that means you will have to baby these cuttings for the next 5 months indoors. Do you want to deal with these cuttings inside for the next 5 months? If not, you may want to take your time and take your cuttings a little later. Last winter, I started my cuttings on November 2 and I had to carry them inside and outside until the end of March. I was beat by then. This year, I'm starting my cuttings later so I don't have to deal with the logistics for so long.
I think i will wait a bit longer then, Just before i cover my trees. I usually do it in December sometime. Thanks for that tip. But why would u carry them inside and back out until March? Cant u just leave them indoors under direct sunlight for the next 4 or 5 months?
Hello. I am now back here 3 weeks later after trying this baggie method you showed us. I think it may be time to put in solo cups. All 4 of my cuttings have white bumps all over it, but no roots like yours. White bumps From the top to the bottom of cutting. I guess it is time to transfer it to a solo cup. Am I right to think so? If so, i have 3 types of medium i could use. Perlite, sphagnum peet moss, and miracle gro sphagnum peet mix. What mixture should I use? Thank you
Joe Rappa I would probably pot them up in cups at this point. Sometimes, the dormant cuttings are difficult and may do better in soil. For the medium, check my most recent video below. I go over it in detail: ua-cam.com/video/ExfavYO0Qos/v-deo.html
Hi, how did you store these young cuttings over the winter months. In a warm room or not En do they need moist soil in winter inside the house. Thanks for the helpfull video's love them
My average January temp where I live is about 57F, so I just carry them inside the garage at night and set them outside during the day. I don't have to bring anything inside my house because we only get around 30 or so freezes a year. With my mature fig trees, they stay outside 365 days a year.
great vid. I have an issue. friend gave me a 3ft branch with growth buds on it, I would like to mature this further. what do I do to the bottom of the branch, put it in what with what? need some help.
J Marciano you must cut that branch into multiple cuttings. Usually the “ideal” cutting length is 4-5 nodes long, which will probably wind up being something like 6-8 inches. From there, I’ve had the most success washing the cuttings well and wrapping them in damp paper towels for a couple weeks, adding fresh air to the bag daily and not letting the paper towels dry out. From there, I move them into cups. I explored this in more depth over the winter. If you have time, start with this video and keep moving on through my fig videos. ua-cam.com/video/QyVQ9HwHkv8/v-deo.html You’ll see how I progressed through the winter and wound up with a pretty high success rate.
J Marciano here is a playlist of the video series. It will take some time to watch it all, but I think it’ll answer your questions. ua-cam.com/play/PL1gY7BoYBGIG6sp2KCVSbA8mFSIPh4q_X.html
@@TheMillennialGardener ANY reason, why I should cut the 3ft branch into smaller? I was thinking, about wittling the end with a knife, letting it soak in miracle gro fluid, than the power form and sticking it into the ground?? or a pot, with miracle pot mix, and le tthe root grown nice , then ultimately the ground?
J Marciano figs take awhile to root, and when they do the roots are pretty fragile. You don’t want to give the roots a lot of material to have to support. You certainly want to remove the vegetation as well. I have found it best to root figs in low light so the buds don’t bloom before the roots form. Otherwise, it sucks the nutrients out of the cutting and they wither away. Think of it like rooting a tomato sucker. It is easy to root tomato suckers when they’re tiny, but the bigger the sucker, the lower chance for success. I believe you’re best off with small cuttings 4-5 nodes in length. In my own experience, large cuttings are harder to root.
@@TheMillennialGardener thank you, so flip side to that ques. what would you do more, or diff. with a 3ft branch to root successfully? potting, micro pro water? or basic water....sun etc?
Hello MG; thanks for your informative videos. I have been trying to root some fig cuttings I purchased and decided to try using the tissue wrap method as you have illustrated. I have noticed that some of the cuttings are now putting out leaf buds but not roots; is that a problem? I have used rooting powder on the base of the cuttings to encourage root growth. The cuttings have been wrapped for about 2 and 1/2 weeks now in a bin on a heat pad. John
So it's okay for my cuttings to drop all its leaves before it can root? I thought I would have to air layer or wait for them to go dormant but if you did this in August the same must have happened to your cuts, right?
Ideally, you root cuttings out of dormant, lignified wood. The only reason why I rooted these greenwood cuttings is because I had to prune the trees, and I didn't want to throw the wood away. I would not recommend taking cuttings for rooting until the trees are dormant.
This method was successful for greener cuttings. For dormant cuttings, I have since developed other methods if you check out my more recent videos from this past rooting season in January.
If the leaves on my fig tree are crunchy but did not fall off yet dose that mean that the tree is dormant , and I can prune or should I wait till they fall off to prune I have them in my garage right now
No. It usually takes several weeks after your fig trees have lost all their leaves to be dormant. The only way to truly check for dormancy is to check for sap flow. I made a video on how to do that here: ua-cam.com/video/VzNdfFYfrPY/v-deo.html
Thanks. Question, was the zip lock bag slightly opened or completely sealed during that rooting period? Also, was it in darkness or partial light while they were in your office room? Thanks
I've never rooted a cutting more than 1-1.5 inches in diameter. You can try. It may take a long time. What I've found is that the thicker the cutting, the longer it takes to get going, BUT the more resistant to rot it is. The opposite I've found is true for thinner cuttings: they wake up very quickly, but they can dry out quickly or rot quickly. I've had the thinner cuttings root for me in 2-3 weeks whereas the thicker ones can take 1-2 months.
Help! My 1mo old cuttings are generating figlettes what do I do to stop/prevent this? They are in a black storage container with minimal light, vented daily, 77•f, mild moisture as instructed. White Adriatic, black mission, and an unknown variety.
Did the cuttings root? They're probably forming a breba crop. That is normal, since the cutting wood is 1 year old. Wait until they are large enough to snap off, and simply snap them off.
@@TheMillennialGardener You’re the man! Thank you so much! I believe they have rooted, my first set was in clear solo cups where I could see roots however, I have migrated to the tree pots you suggested so I’ve done the tug test and have some resistance. Thank you and Dale for your guidance!
Can you please tell me why my temp. control reads 78 F which I set but when putting my meat thermometer in the pots with bark around them in the tub like you did for cuttings reads 140 F ?
Do you have a temperature control mat? Either your mat is broken, or your thermometer is broken. That makes no sense. The cuttings can't be hotter than the mat unless you're adding additional heat.
Direct sunlight causes the cuttings to bud. You run a risk by putting the cuttings in strong light because if they bud before they root, you won’t have roots to support the leaves and the cutting could exhaust its energy and die. I don’t think you need to keep them in darkness, though. I had best success keeping them nearby a window and giving them indirect light. The cuttings I kept in darkness didn’t do as well. It could just be the first cuttings were fresher. I will be repeating the same process next year.
@@TheMillennialGardener Thank you. This is what I will be doing. I successfully germinated a Date Palm this way.. totally forgot about it. Came back to it a month later, it had grown a giant leaf inside the bag with growing roots all over. Planted immediately and it's very healthy. I can imagine a moist environment like this for figs is similar. Thank you for your video. I will be doing this with a much thicker branch, of an Adriatic JH :)
The cuttings that were wrapped in a paper towel were placed in the corner of my office out of direct sunlight. It wasn't total darkness, but the cuttings were wrapped in paper towels, so they weren't getting any light.
When is the most ideal time to buy cuttings off FigBid or another similar site? Can you tell me what is fair price for a common variety cutting as opposed to a rare/higher quality variety cutting? Im specifically interested in Black Madeira, I258 and Smith.
worlds2wander it really depends. Probably now is okay to buy something because by the time they root, it won’t be until January and they won’t leaf out til February at this point. You’ll probably be able to manage them indoors until early April and start bringing them outside, so I think you’re kind of clear now. Really common figs like Celeste, Ronde de Bordeaux, Olympian, etc. should be $10 or less a cutting. You shouldn’t really pay more than $20 for 2 of them. More desirable figs Col de Dame’s, Black Madeira, I-258, etc. expect to pay around $20-25 a cutting. REALLY hot “fad” cuttings I’ve seen sell for $50+ each.
I do not use parafilm. Even if the tops dry out some, it doesn't prevent the bottoms from rooting because the soil the cuttings are in stays moist. I could see it being a problem if you are using 3-node cuttings and only allow an inch or two of a cutting protrude above soil level, but if your cuttings are 4-5 nodes and stick out 4-6 inches, I believe parafilm is a bigger risk. I've seen mold and fungus grow underneath parafilm because it holds in the humidity inside the fig to keep it from drying out. In my opinion, the rot on top is the bigger risk than the cutting drying out, and if you use tall enough cuttings, the tops drying a little shouldn't hurt. I am not saying I am correct, but it is those reasons why I do not use it. I do not see the point in spending more money on materials and adding another time-consuming step to the process for something that adds additional risk in my mind. I try to keep things simple.
@@TheMillennialGardener Thanks for your information, seriously, buy some cutting and seeing everywhere, they do it sometimes very complicated and not at all cheap. I remember that my mom and my grandmother gave her a "podita" (cutting) of any plant, planted it in a pot and put a large glass jar on top of it and that was all, a month later there was a little plant in its own pot . I hope to have good results with the cutting that I just bought.
seamoscomplices Mother Nature doesn’t have parafilm, rooting hormone and any other fancy tools and she’s been rooting cuttings for millennia. I understand the idea is to maximize our chances, and we can increase our odds in a controlled environment, but sometimes folks go overboard in my opinion.
Silver87 fig cuttings are directional. You must make sure you do not bury the “top.” They only grow one way. Sometimes the tops will root, but you have to make sure the tree is growing upright. Just plant the bottom half and allow the roots on the top half to shrivel and dry up. They’ll be fine.
I use zippered bags. I put them upside down so I can close the pot all together with the zipper. And you can use those bags for long time. If you want you can put some air if you want by using nails or so.
Just to clarify, I doo not claim the zipper bag to be THE method to root fig cuttings. It is a method that allows me to diversify. Also, I put some of the cutting in clear water, some in a medium without soil. So, some of them get the bag, but not all. Also I have the cuttings on a heat mat and under high grow lights. The grow lights are a little expensive, but I use them every year to start my tomato seeds in early March
Yes. The nice thing about the water is that you can see the roots as they develop So, it is little more difficult to see the roots when in soil. So, I never really know which roots first. So, as you know, I also like to see the roots in the medium as they appear almost all at once. I use also the cuttings in plastic.
Frank K I did not in this video. I have experimented with Clonex and it never gave me any luck with fig cuttings. If anything, I would say it encouraged rot. I don’t use it anymore. I may try a dry powder next year, though.
Hi, Jack's Fertilizer, 20-20-20 . Please fix this link, it is broken. Amazon could not find it. I try to order from your links to help you with the commission.
I just checked the link, and it's working fine right now. Maybe it went out of stock for a moment? If you go to SOLUBLE FERTILIZERS, it's the 2nd item for the 20-20-20. I really appreciate your support!
@@TheMillennialGardener do i need to put it in a warm environment to root??? Because all of them are saying they have successful rooting by placing the cuttings in the ref.
Jennica Sevilla cuttings will not root in the refrigerator. That is what you do to store fully lignified wood taken from dormant trees that have been frosted and have dropped their leaves. The fridge keeps them dormant for storage purposes. But you shouldn’t “store” active wood. Cuttings root best between 70-80 degrees. If you just took cuttings now on actively growing plants, they need to be rooted immediately. I would place them directly into pots and leave them outdoors. I assume it is officially warm where you are - rooting cuttings in pots during the warm of the summer is the best thing. Just keep them in a shady, warm spot out of direct sunlight. If you don’t want to do that, you can root them indoors in paper towels like in my video or in cups in a damp medium inside, but outdoor temps should be sufficient by now.
I am Roger Castillo of 639 Las Brisas Drive, Mesquite, Texas, 75149 I have bee watching all your beautiful video on fig trees and I amaze of your talent growing your Fig Orchard. Please if you have some excess cuttings of your fig trees can you please mail some to me so I can can grow my own fig trees. Thank you very much and God Bless You and more Power to you.
The Millennial Gardener your welcome care to return the love, I’m trying to grow my channel as well. Just got started. Thanks again for the wonderful content. I’m glad I found your channel:)
Your bags are not much different. After two days, the ripper bag becomes a steam chamber. And you will never have to water the cuttings again. In the meantime you can have fun watching the droplets.
Sandro Spano I only used bags on top of these because they were very green. Greenwood cuttings desiccate quickly. They need humidity until well established. Hardwood cuttings don’t need added humidity in many cases. For me in the southeast, there is enough relative humidity in the winter that they seem to be okay.
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Hey bud I’m getting I-258 cuttings by sept. The only thing I’m concerned about is that I’m in Toronto and the weather isn’t gonna be great by the end of sept. Could I still get these cutting to root and then have more growth in a pot and then let it hit dormancy? I need a little help i don’t want these cuttings to go on me lol ur the reason why I purchased these cuttings lol. I got excited to have this variety. Also, do I have to put these bags in a dark place?
Space City Peppers I do not use Instagram, just Twitter. I post photos there.
vito fall you can root the cuttings now, but if you do, you’ll probably want to keep them growing throughout the winter in a sunny window and treat them like a houseplant. It is risky to root them and then try to store them immediately after because you’re throwing off their circadian rhythm. If you root them, they think it is springtime. Rooting them in the fall means you probably want to keep them growing, either with a really sunny window or grow lights.
The Millennial Gardener I kind of figured it’s just I received the cuttings so late. Thanks for getting back to me. I rooted some cutting and I fig popped them but do I put them in a container as a humity box
Took your advice and started 15 cuttings...they all made it! No matter the occasion or celebration, somebody is getting a fig tree!
Watching this video to prepare a Peter's Honey Fig cutting... Mildly nervous lol, but I'll be prepped thanks to this vid!
I just cut some fresh branches coming from the base in late july and put them directly in soil in some small tomato growing cups and they all have roots now and newly grown leaves and buds did nothing just kept them in a shaded area and water tgem that's it
How exciting that you’ve made it into your new house!! I’m so glad of your progress in spite of all of the challenges you’ve faced lately. I look forward to following along this winter season. I’m wondering how we will fare weather wise this year. Hopefully it’s an easy winter considering what we’ve endured. Cheers and see you next video ☺️
Thanks! Now Hurricane Michael is bearing down on Florida and supposed to hit us with tropical storm force winds Thursday 😭. The hits keep coming! Be careful later this week. All it takes is one bad wind gust in the wrong direction to fall the wrong tree.
Same to you! This has been the wettest year I have experienced down here. Between how soaked the ground already is and the winds coming in definitely nervous about trees in our general area. Blessedly for us we don’t have any trees near our house. You be careful too!
Wilmington is on pace for 100 inches of rain this year 🤭 Be safe, conditions are supposed to begin deteriorating late Wednesday overnight and into Thursday AM.
Hi im in philippines watch your video all the time.. I growing figs also here in subic..i enjoy growing and collecting figs .😇
Thank you for watching from the Philippines! I appreciate it!
Winter garden! Yes!
I have a lot of beds to build 🔨
I live in zone 9a in southeast Louisiana. What would be the optimum temp and humidity level to start fig cuttings? I am trying to figure out what time of year would be best to take cuttings in my area.
@5:32, that threw me off. I thought the cutting had gotten huge in the small containers and I kept replaying it trying to make sense of it ...then I realized it was a grown tree in the background...
Did you seal the bag while the cutting were on there ??
Can it work with black Madeira or i258 is that easy I will try thanks for sharing
Carlos Rivera it can if the cuttings aren’t fully dormant. It is more difficult with fully dormant cuttings. When the cuttings are dormant, I wait for the little bumps to form, then direct pot them. I suppose they could root, even when fully dormant, like this, but it could take a long time and there is a risk of rot keeping them in a damp bag for very very long.
Hope you can help diagnose fungus on my little fig cuttings. In November I made some cuttings from a small fig tree and followed your great instructions for rooting them in cups. A couple of them did well and have some leaves, though one seems to have a fungus of some sort. Hoping you might know what it is and what I can do to help the plant. I also wasn't sure if it is time to fertilize and for bigger pots. I thought I could link to photos, but I did that in the comment yesterday and the comment was deleted- is there a way I can send you a couple of photos? I'm in NJ and they have been inside the house since I started them, and it is just starting to get a little warm out, in the 50's only though, so I don't know if it would help to put them outside.
Hi. I see you propagated these during the Summer in August. Nice job.
Can i also do the same around this time in december here in PA? Just to get the roots started in a baggie? Ill be pruning my fig tree/bush next month.
Thanks
Generally, the winter is the best time to root figs. You want to root fully dormant cuttings because they are resistant to rot and send the most reliable roots. Now is peak cutting season. Figbid.com is totally flooded with options.
@@TheMillennialGardener Thanks, and thanks for the link too. Learining so much from you.
I will be cutting a bunch today and get them started.
So I guess I will keep them in indirect sunlight all Winter...Plant the rooted ones in a few weeks in a cup, and keep them in indirect sunlight indoors until Spring. Correct?
@@joerappa5278 yes, you generally want to keep your cuttings out of direct sunlight because sunlight could cause the cuttings to bud before roots grow, which could kill the cutting by absorbing the energy left inside it before roots can grow and feed the cutting. Just one thing to consider - if you start your cuttings now, and your frost doesn't end until April, that means you will have to baby these cuttings for the next 5 months indoors. Do you want to deal with these cuttings inside for the next 5 months? If not, you may want to take your time and take your cuttings a little later. Last winter, I started my cuttings on November 2 and I had to carry them inside and outside until the end of March. I was beat by then. This year, I'm starting my cuttings later so I don't have to deal with the logistics for so long.
I think i will wait a bit longer then, Just before i cover my trees. I usually do it in December sometime. Thanks for that tip.
But why would u carry them inside and back out until March? Cant u just leave them indoors under direct sunlight for the next 4 or 5 months?
This is very helpful. I'm growing figs. Thank you for this video 🇵🇭☺️
Maryland Dragonfruit Gardens you’re welcome. Thanks for watching!
Hello. I am now back here 3 weeks later after trying this baggie method you showed us. I think it may be time to put in solo cups.
All 4 of my cuttings have white bumps all over it, but no roots like yours. White bumps From the top to the bottom of cutting.
I guess it is time to transfer it to a solo cup.
Am I right to think so?
If so, i have 3 types of medium i could use. Perlite, sphagnum peet moss, and miracle gro sphagnum peet mix.
What mixture should I use?
Thank you
Joe Rappa I would probably pot them up in cups at this point. Sometimes, the dormant cuttings are difficult and may do better in soil.
For the medium, check my most recent video below. I go over it in detail:
ua-cam.com/video/ExfavYO0Qos/v-deo.html
Hi, how did you store these young cuttings over the winter months. In a warm room or not En do they need moist soil in winter inside the house. Thanks for the helpfull video's love them
My average January temp where I live is about 57F, so I just carry them inside the garage at night and set them outside during the day. I don't have to bring anything inside my house because we only get around 30 or so freezes a year. With my mature fig trees, they stay outside 365 days a year.
I tried this method and it worked
Awesome! Great job!
for figs? on stem cuttings? Also was the ziplock bag fully sealed? Thanks
@@rendercrap Yes, but i left a little crack in the top of the bag. I didn't fully close it.
@@henpeckedlizard9873 Thanks!
I've seen some people do both.. Thank you
great vid. I have an issue. friend gave me a 3ft branch with growth buds on it, I would like to mature this further.
what do I do to the bottom of the branch, put it in what with what? need some help.
J Marciano you must cut that branch into multiple cuttings. Usually the “ideal” cutting length is 4-5 nodes long, which will probably wind up being something like 6-8 inches.
From there, I’ve had the most success washing the cuttings well and wrapping them in damp paper towels for a couple weeks, adding fresh air to the bag daily and not letting the paper towels dry out. From there, I move them into cups.
I explored this in more depth over the winter. If you have time, start with this video and keep moving on through my fig videos.
ua-cam.com/video/QyVQ9HwHkv8/v-deo.html
You’ll see how I progressed through the winter and wound up with a pretty high success rate.
J Marciano here is a playlist of the video series. It will take some time to watch it all, but I think it’ll answer your questions.
ua-cam.com/play/PL1gY7BoYBGIG6sp2KCVSbA8mFSIPh4q_X.html
@@TheMillennialGardener ANY reason, why I should cut the 3ft branch into smaller? I was thinking, about wittling the end with a knife, letting it soak in miracle gro fluid, than the power form and sticking it into the ground?? or a pot, with miracle pot mix, and le tthe root grown nice , then ultimately the ground?
J Marciano figs take awhile to root, and when they do the roots are pretty fragile. You don’t want to give the roots a lot of material to have to support. You certainly want to remove the vegetation as well. I have found it best to root figs in low light so the buds don’t bloom before the roots form. Otherwise, it sucks the nutrients out of the cutting and they wither away.
Think of it like rooting a tomato sucker. It is easy to root tomato suckers when they’re tiny, but the bigger the sucker, the lower chance for success. I believe you’re best off with small cuttings 4-5 nodes in length. In my own experience, large cuttings are harder to root.
@@TheMillennialGardener thank you, so flip side to that ques. what would you do more, or diff. with a 3ft branch to root successfully? potting, micro pro water? or basic water....sun etc?
Hello MG; thanks for your informative videos. I have been trying to root some fig cuttings I purchased and decided to try using the tissue wrap method as you have illustrated. I have noticed that some of the cuttings are now putting out leaf buds but not roots; is that a problem? I have used rooting powder on the base of the cuttings to encourage root growth. The cuttings have been wrapped for about 2 and 1/2 weeks now in a bin on a heat pad.
John
So it's okay for my cuttings to drop all its leaves before it can root? I thought I would have to air layer or wait for them to go dormant but if you did this in August the same must have happened to your cuts, right?
Ideally, you root cuttings out of dormant, lignified wood. The only reason why I rooted these greenwood cuttings is because I had to prune the trees, and I didn't want to throw the wood away. I would not recommend taking cuttings for rooting until the trees are dormant.
nice, informative video brother
Is it a good idea to use this method when we buy expensive cuttings. It looks like 100% success
This method was successful for greener cuttings. For dormant cuttings, I have since developed other methods if you check out my more recent videos from this past rooting season in January.
If the leaves on my fig tree are crunchy but did not fall off yet dose that mean that the tree is dormant , and I can prune or should I wait till they fall off to prune I have them in my garage right now
No. It usually takes several weeks after your fig trees have lost all their leaves to be dormant. The only way to truly check for dormancy is to check for sap flow. I made a video on how to do that here:
ua-cam.com/video/VzNdfFYfrPY/v-deo.html
Thanks. Question, was the zip lock bag slightly opened or completely sealed during that rooting period? Also, was it in darkness or partial light while they were in your office room? Thanks
Can you root the cutting that older than one-year-old breach? I have some big stickers that is 2 or three years old.
I've never rooted a cutting more than 1-1.5 inches in diameter. You can try. It may take a long time. What I've found is that the thicker the cutting, the longer it takes to get going, BUT the more resistant to rot it is. The opposite I've found is true for thinner cuttings: they wake up very quickly, but they can dry out quickly or rot quickly. I've had the thinner cuttings root for me in 2-3 weeks whereas the thicker ones can take 1-2 months.
Hi
Could somebody help finding de first film before this ? Thank you
I think you are referring to this video: ua-cam.com/video/pYCHD5CCogA/v-deo.html
Help! My 1mo old cuttings are generating figlettes what do I do to stop/prevent this? They are in a black storage container with minimal light, vented daily, 77•f, mild moisture as instructed. White Adriatic, black mission, and an unknown variety.
Did the cuttings root? They're probably forming a breba crop. That is normal, since the cutting wood is 1 year old. Wait until they are large enough to snap off, and simply snap them off.
@@TheMillennialGardener You’re the man! Thank you so much! I believe they have rooted, my first set was in clear solo cups where I could see roots however, I have migrated to the tree pots you suggested so I’ve done the tug test and have some resistance. Thank you and Dale for your guidance!
@@ashleymceachern7977 you’re welcome.
Can you please tell me why my temp. control reads 78 F which I set but when putting my meat thermometer in the pots with bark around them in the tub like you did for cuttings reads 140 F ?
Do you have a temperature control mat? Either your mat is broken, or your thermometer is broken. That makes no sense. The cuttings can't be hotter than the mat unless you're adding additional heat.
Hi
Could you send me the link tot the video of august 5th? Thank you.
I think you are referring to this video: ua-cam.com/video/pYCHD5CCogA/v-deo.html
Hello, Do fig cuttings need light to root or can they just stay in the dark?
Direct sunlight causes the cuttings to bud. You run a risk by putting the cuttings in strong light because if they bud before they root, you won’t have roots to support the leaves and the cutting could exhaust its energy and die. I don’t think you need to keep them in darkness, though. I had best success keeping them nearby a window and giving them indirect light. The cuttings I kept in darkness didn’t do as well. It could just be the first cuttings were fresher. I will be repeating the same process next year.
@@TheMillennialGardener Thank you
@@TheMillennialGardener Thank you. This is what I will be doing. I successfully germinated a Date Palm this way.. totally forgot about it. Came back to it a month later, it had grown a giant leaf inside the bag with growing roots all over. Planted immediately and it's very healthy. I can imagine a moist environment like this for figs is similar. Thank you for your video. I will be doing this with a much thicker branch, of an Adriatic JH :)
Good idea. Did you put them in the dark? Thanks.
The cuttings that were wrapped in a paper towel were placed in the corner of my office out of direct sunlight. It wasn't total darkness, but the cuttings were wrapped in paper towels, so they weren't getting any light.
@@TheMillennialGardener ok, i will give it a try!
Thank you and have a nice Christmas!
When is the most ideal time to buy cuttings off FigBid or another similar site? Can you tell me what is fair price for a common variety cutting as opposed to a rare/higher quality variety cutting? Im specifically interested in Black Madeira, I258 and Smith.
worlds2wander it really depends. Probably now is okay to buy something because by the time they root, it won’t be until January and they won’t leaf out til February at this point. You’ll probably be able to manage them indoors until early April and start bringing them outside, so I think you’re kind of clear now.
Really common figs like Celeste, Ronde de Bordeaux, Olympian, etc. should be $10 or less a cutting. You shouldn’t really pay more than $20 for 2 of them.
More desirable figs Col de Dame’s, Black Madeira, I-258, etc. expect to pay around $20-25 a cutting.
REALLY hot “fad” cuttings I’ve seen sell for $50+ each.
The Millennial Gardener awesome thanks so much for the feedback! I’ve already placed a few bids within the realm of your guidelines. Thanks again!
@@worlds2wander you're welcome.
Hi. Do you use Parafilm in your fig cuttings?
I do not use parafilm. Even if the tops dry out some, it doesn't prevent the bottoms from rooting because the soil the cuttings are in stays moist. I could see it being a problem if you are using 3-node cuttings and only allow an inch or two of a cutting protrude above soil level, but if your cuttings are 4-5 nodes and stick out 4-6 inches, I believe parafilm is a bigger risk. I've seen mold and fungus grow underneath parafilm because it holds in the humidity inside the fig to keep it from drying out. In my opinion, the rot on top is the bigger risk than the cutting drying out, and if you use tall enough cuttings, the tops drying a little shouldn't hurt.
I am not saying I am correct, but it is those reasons why I do not use it. I do not see the point in spending more money on materials and adding another time-consuming step to the process for something that adds additional risk in my mind. I try to keep things simple.
@@TheMillennialGardener Thanks for your information, seriously, buy some cutting and seeing everywhere, they do it sometimes very complicated and not at all cheap. I remember that my mom and my grandmother gave her a "podita" (cutting) of any plant, planted it in a pot and put a large glass jar on top of it and that was all, a month later there was a little plant in its own pot . I hope to have good results with the cutting that I just bought.
seamoscomplices Mother Nature doesn’t have parafilm, rooting hormone and any other fancy tools and she’s been rooting cuttings for millennia. I understand the idea is to maximize our chances, and we can increase our odds in a controlled environment, but sometimes folks go overboard in my opinion.
I’m trying this out and root nodes are growing on both ends when I plant them does it matter if the other end is not planted?
Silver87 fig cuttings are directional. You must make sure you do not bury the “top.” They only grow one way. Sometimes the tops will root, but you have to make sure the tree is growing upright. Just plant the bottom half and allow the roots on the top half to shrivel and dry up. They’ll be fine.
I use zippered bags. I put them upside down so I can close the pot all together with the zipper. And you can use those bags for long time. If you want you can put some air if you want by using nails or so.
That sounds like "fig pop" but using a ziploc instead of a rubber band. Interesting. I think fig-pop promotes rot, but maybe the zipper bag helps.
Just to clarify, I doo not claim the zipper bag to be THE method to root fig cuttings. It is a method that allows me to diversify. Also, I put some of the cutting in clear water, some in a medium without soil. So, some of them get the bag, but not all. Also I have the cuttings on a heat mat and under high grow lights. The grow lights are a little expensive, but I use them every year to start my tomato seeds in early March
Sandro Spano have you had luck rooting cuttings in just water?
Yes. The nice thing about the water is that you can see the roots as they develop So, it is little more difficult to see the roots when in soil. So, I never really know which roots first. So, as you know, I also like to see the roots in the medium as they appear almost all at once. I use also the cuttings in plastic.
Sandro Spano have you had any problems with cuttings rotting in pure water?
Did you use cloning jell
Frank K I did not in this video. I have experimented with Clonex and it never gave me any luck with fig cuttings. If anything, I would say it encouraged rot. I don’t use it anymore. I may try a dry powder next year, though.
The Millennial Gardener
Thank you so much
Love your videos
Frank K thank you! I’m glad you enjoy them.
Hi, Jack's Fertilizer, 20-20-20 . Please fix this link, it is broken. Amazon could not find it. I try to order from your links to help you with the commission.
I just checked the link, and it's working fine right now. Maybe it went out of stock for a moment? If you go to SOLUBLE FERTILIZERS, it's the 2nd item for the 20-20-20. I really appreciate your support!
I put mine in the refrigerator is it okay??? Im worried. I dont know where to put it because most of them are saying put it in the ref.
Jennica Sevilla are you talking about a dormant, unrooted cutting? If so, they can be stored in the fridge for weeks, sometimes months.
@@TheMillennialGardener yes unrooted fig cuttings. I wanna root it. I wrapped it with tissue pape then placed in a bad and stored in the ref.
@@TheMillennialGardener do i need to put it in a warm environment to root??? Because all of them are saying they have successful rooting by placing the cuttings in the ref.
Jennica Sevilla cuttings will not root in the refrigerator. That is what you do to store fully lignified wood taken from dormant trees that have been frosted and have dropped their leaves. The fridge keeps them dormant for storage purposes. But you shouldn’t “store” active wood.
Cuttings root best between 70-80 degrees. If you just took cuttings now on actively growing plants, they need to be rooted immediately. I would place them directly into pots and leave them outdoors. I assume it is officially warm where you are - rooting cuttings in pots during the warm of the summer is the best thing. Just keep them in a shady, warm spot out of direct sunlight.
If you don’t want to do that, you can root them indoors in paper towels like in my video or in cups in a damp medium inside, but outdoor temps should be sufficient by now.
@@TheMillennialGardener so should i remove them from the ref? Can i store them in a room temp? I live in the Philippines so it's warm here.
I am Roger Castillo of 639 Las Brisas Drive, Mesquite, Texas, 75149 I have bee watching all your beautiful video on fig trees and I amaze of your talent growing your Fig Orchard. Please if you have some excess cuttings of your fig trees can you please mail some to me so I can can grow my own fig trees. Thank you very much and God Bless You and more Power to you.
Thanks for watching. I will have cuttings available in the winter. Most likely some time in January. I will announce when they're available.
👍👍👍
Liked and subscribed.:)
Thanks for joining me! :)
The Millennial Gardener your welcome care to return the love, I’m trying to grow my channel as well. Just got started. Thanks again for the wonderful content. I’m glad I found your channel:)
Your bags are not much different. After two days, the ripper bag becomes a steam chamber. And you will never have to water the cuttings again. In the meantime you can have fun watching the droplets.
Sandro Spano I only used bags on top of these because they were very green. Greenwood cuttings desiccate quickly. They need humidity until well established. Hardwood cuttings don’t need added humidity in many cases. For me in the southeast, there is enough relative humidity in the winter that they seem to be okay.