Jim, in my bike service shop, I’ve developed a trick to make the search for the cause of the puncture trivial. Before you remove the inner tube from the tire, index the tube and the tire. Mark the tire where the valve stem is. I use a ball point pen and put a small mark on the sidewall of the drive side of the tire, to show where the valve stem was. Then, mark the inner tube to indicate the drive side of the inner tube. What that does is allow me to reproduce the exact orientations of the inner tube and tire. After I patch the inner tube, I can then realign the inner tube and tire, and the new patch will show me exactly where to find the object that caused the puncture, if it remains in the tire. A word about those peel and stick patches: I patch a couple hundred inner tubes a year in my shop. I have never seen an old, functioning, peel and stick patch. I have patched dozens of inner tubes with failed peel and stick patches. They are temporary, at best. I do not recommend them and don’t sell them in my shop.
Index the hole that's a very good tip. A month ago I had a flat. The tyre at a first sight was just fine, even when passing my finger inside it. But using that index method I've found 2 invisible little thorns inside it. If I didn't do that I would have got another flat immediately.
Even better: When reassembling the tyre onto the rim, align the text (tyre name) position with the valve. So no explicit marking is needed next time as you know by default that the tyre label itself is the implicit valve marking.
I usually carry a couple of spares and a glue kit for longer rides. Like most people here, I find those stick on patches are pretty unreliable. I usually wait until i have about 5 or 6 tubes then spend a few minutes fixing them at home. 3 coats of glue, couple on the patch, overnight with some weights on them and they're good to go. I've got some tubes that are more patch than tube now.
Great video Jim- clear, concise and to the point. I've long held the view that it's best to simply use my spare tube (having first carefully inspected the tyre for thorns, shards of flint, glass, etc), in the event of a puncture, and take the punctured tube home for repair where it's warm, clean and dry. Granted that plans fails in the instance of a second puncture but so far luck has been with me! Whilst great care is required, I've found a fingertip search of the inside of the tyre is sometimes needed to locate the offending intrusion - but I can't stress enough the need for caution as clearly the item will be needle / razor sharp!!
A fair point, but I always try to fix a puncture first, the spare tube is the last resort, as once fitted, you have no back up if you get another flat, which has happened to me a number of times, as I tend to be off road 90% of the time, which makes punctures more likely.
Such GREAT EXPERT videos Jim presents . . . I've found that if you are having trouble finding the puncture, try running the tube really close under your nose - an extra sensitive spot to help detect air escaping ! Happy trails!
I've never had one of those sticky patches work for me. I've gone through a whole pack and it's never adhered properly. Only thing I can think of is I roughed the tube up too much, the sticky part touched my fingers and got oil on it, sometimes I draw a circle around the hole with a marker and that interferes, or maybe I didn't rub it hard enough. I thought they were just a bad product but after watching this I might try again.
0:40 100%! I won´t ever forget how i cycled around Manchester full of rubbish all over the place as a messenger on gravel tyres Continental - good brand, good reviews on the particular tyres, 15 quid each. worthless. for half a year I was getting punctures all the time, when it was only once a week that was a blessed week, sometimes it was more than once a day. I was even trying good old tricks as placing old tubes without valves in between the tubes and tyres as an extra protection, helped a little, then upgraded for a strip of carpet, helped a little more, but still plenty punctures. once I god fed up and swapped them for high quality puncture more resistant tyres from Challenge, 50 quid each, and I was waiting for my first puncture another half a year and that thorn was nearly ready to puncture a car tyre. no need to go into details how quickly that investment paid off on saved time and morale. sticky patches - I tried them once and didn´t work. so I´m back to the old school and with good patches it works just good. but yes, it is a hassle so thanks to your video I will try the new ones again. also, the old school patches usually come quite large whereas the punctures are usually no more than 1mm. I cut them in halfs, quarters or even more if large enough. just need to work them in and also hit the hole with the center of the patch better then with a bigger one. I find it easier, less wasting and even though marginally, adding less weight. the only thing I was missing in the video was the promised topic on when is the tube ready to be dismissed, I was looking forward it...
I always start the hunt for the source of the puncture by looking around the tyre before removing the inner tube. If you find a thorn/flint, you know where the hole in the inner tube will be. I'm still searching for a good way to mark the location of a puncture on the inner tube accurately. I've seen people suggest making the hole larger so it is easily visible - that just seems crazy!
Thanks Jim. Would appreciate feedback on Bruno's comment below that the patches you used are temporary and not as good as the old glue hot patches method for a long term fix. I have had a lot of issues with the temporary patches staying on over time.
Hi Jim. My rim cracked during a ride,which resulted in a butyl inner tube having a cut.Would patching work on a such tube.The length of the cut is approximately the same as diameter of the patch.I've already put 2 patches,one is half on top of the other,there is a slow leak after couple of hours it loses pressure.Should I try to put another patch or just bin it?
TIPS: If you have difficulty finding the hole, try this: Pass the tube very close to your upper lip. It's a very sensitive area and you will "feel" the air. OR Add dish soap to water then stir so there are bubbles. Then use a sponge and rub it on the tire. It will blow bubbles where the hole is. Add to your kit one of those tiny wipes they use at the hospital after using a syringe. Very good to clean the inner tube! You can find them for cheap at any pharmacy.
i still do find the old school repair kit better, i keep the instant one in the sadle bag but for the workshop repair i think it is better to use the old school method
Awaiting 2 new treaded tyres for my e-bike which, loaded with 2x panniers of shopping, developed a puncture after getting home. It was a wet day, the tyres were slick and the bike very heavy, not surprising really. These couple of puncture/tyre change tutorial vids are really handy reminders and will make my repair job much easier come the day. Yes, I will def. be carrying a spare tube from now on. 👍
At least from what I've seen, you should use the cold/self adhesive patches only for emergency repairs and hot patch it at home, since that fuses the patch to the tire.
Nice video. I have not seen the stick on patches here, only glue version. The sealant liquid does not really work for me and mostly just causes a mess. On my way to work, I had the fun of only 8 thorns in my front MTB wheel at the same time. It was fun to patch. Fortunately, not all penetrated.
I simply pack a replacement tube, tire removal tool, and a small air pump with me on my rides. Replacing the tube is easier and quicker than trying to find a tiny puncture hole especially if you are on the side of a busy road or around an unsafe part of town. I rather deal with repairing the punctured tube at home. Also, I have found the quick peel on patches useless for high pressure tires on road bikes (80-120 psi). They work on lower pressure tires but never last long on high psi tires.
Cool video! May I suggest alcohol swabs are great for stick on patches! They weigh nothing and store in the patch kit. Oils from your skin really disrupt the sticking so I clean the tire and my fingers with my alcohol swab. Once it’s clean I stick it on and it lasts forever👍
Thanks, Jim, awesome. Did not know they have a new version of the repair kit. Sound much more convenient! BTW, you promise to tell us how many repairs can an inner tube take? as many as you want?
Same here. I tend to take a few ‘glueless’ patches and ‘old school’ patches and tube of glue. Bib and braces maybe but they take up little room in the saddle bag so why not?
Well done demo and camera work there. As far as on the seam patching, is there a specific technique to use for a more secured adhering of it to that uneven surface ?
Yep, never had any luck with these new patch kits, or the other ones he talked about that use rubber cement....the really old school vulcanizing patch kits worked every time...had to literally burn the patch onto the tube, but never had one fail. Now, I just carry extra tubes, have a flat I replace the tube and throw the bad one away, no sense wasting time with patches, they might stick for a while but fall off quickly, usually before you even get the tire back on the wheel. Far from impressed with the glue on or the self-stick patches.
Puncture repair kit for home repair, sticky quick patches for saddle bag. And agree about valve punctures - a nightmare, makes the inner tube basically useless. Having mainly gone tubeless, I only have one set of wheels with inner tubes.
Thanks very much. I just wonder why the Front (vs.rear) Tube on my comfort bike: 1) keeps losing air comparatively fast; 2) keeps getting flats. Confounding!
Keep a small container that has a nozzle tip which is filled with soapy water to use for locating the leak. Especially, useful under low light conditions. Or use your own spit to verify the leak location.
It depends on the use case (I have multiple bikes, so it varies): > Race bike: latex tubes with no patches at all used with lightweight tyres e.g. Vittoria Corsa, Michelin Competition etc. Will probably move to tubeless once I build up my latest carbon wheel purchase. > Commuter & Training bikes: I don't like waste, so 5 - 10 patches is my limit depending on age. I write the date on the tube with a Sharpie pen when I first install it and scrap it when it gets 5+ patches at 10 years old or ~10 patches if less than 10 years. Note: 1. I tend to ride tyres till the stiching comes through (not throw them out when the get to the wear indicators, e.g. GP4000S2) so I tend to get more punctures towards the end of the tyre life which is not a big deal since it so cheap to repair tubes, my patch repairs always work and I don't get that many flats anyway. 2. I always have a good tread condition tyre on the front wheel for grip and safety reasons (don't want a sudden flat at 80km/h!) 3. However, I have just ordered some tyre liners to be used when the rear tyre has become squared off and only has a few months of life left - this should reduce my patch consumption and I don't expect it to add much rolling resistance (0.5mm Polyurethane liner weighing 33g) but we will see. 4. Schwalbe Durano Plus tyres are great as a rear tyre for commuting. I have yet to wear it down to the blue spongy protection layer. No idea on how many thousand km's.....
If you have actual rubber patches and cement, and you'll done it properly they shouldn't leak. Those stickers will always form a bulge, a little crease or wrinkle and will leak. There's just no way they will last, unlike regular rubber cement patches which should last a long, long time.
The technique of putting it to your cheek to feel for air coming out is great, I use my lips instead though. They're even more sensitive and it's easier to not lose track of where it was as it's already in line with your eyes Or just dunk it in a bucket of water and check for bubbles, thats the easiest way
Great clear content as always, any chance of a video on your moustache? It’s a beauty and am trying to grow one myself so any guidance would be appreciated - I’m guesssing your Tom Ritcheys long lost son.
Nine time out of ten it's always the rear wheel. So if you've brought a spare inner tube along then you may as well go ahead and use that one and repair the punctured inner tube when you get home. Also you can't have too many tyre levers, they have been known to snap at the crucial moment, so always bring more than you think you will need.
Can a 18" inner tube fit a 20"x4.0 wheel if you put a pool noodle in the tire. What other size inner tubes can fit a 20"x4.0 bike wheel or fat tire wheel ?
Jim: Are those M/Off patches a permanent repair? as many brands seem to come off after a while............. and I only view them as a get you home option usually, until a old school repair can be done.
They pretend they are permanent, but yes, I've had more of them come off, or not stick at all. Wish they'd just bring back the old school vulcanizing patch kits that you literally burned the patch on. Never had any of those fail, these stick on patches are pretty useless.
Well done Jim. Good clear video with a nice touch of humour. Once I was travelling from Adelaide to Sydney, pulled off the road for food and rest, woe be into a patch of three cornered jacks (sharp spiny little *&#@*) After 6 punctures merrily on way again.
Against the eye and you'll easily detect the air leak.. Keep the tyre maker lined up the valve when fitting.. This will help you zero in on the area of the tyre where there might be a thorn / flint etc....
My punctures are swap the tubular tire , and repair the puncture at home. Rare that my Victoria's or contis puncture. . But when they do it's an hour of sowing and gluing. Lo,
I think the best patch kits were the ones that required matches or a lighter. Hot patch kits seemed to work the best, I think they were called Vulcanizing patches. Too bad they no longer make those because well dumb people would burn themselves or set something on fire. I've never had much luck with any of those stick on type patches, I just end up replacing the tube since I have to take everything apart anyways.
stick on patches suck, i never had luck with them, dunno how he has ,maybe he pays over the odds for premium brands ,the the generic brands of them all suck, ill stick to rubber solution glue and dry patch, it takes no extra space in the bike pouch
I had the worst luck on my last outdoor ride….somehow managed to get 5…yes 5 punctures….how do you prepare for that? Ran out of co2, mini pump couldn’t hack it…in the end I just gave up and had to get rescued.
Two punctures is my tolerance level. I've had a couple instances where I then had a third and that was a signal for me to call it a day. Taxi home or the "pick-up of shame" from the wife. :)
On a rush no patch available use small amount of crazy glue with small size paper or use sandpaper sand dark rubber from old tube again crazy glue powder rubber on top
I am an urban bike rider and I have wondered about the "slime" that can be added prior to getting a puncture or any kind of "goo" one can introduce via the valve after receiving a puncture. The objective being to get to a bike repair shop after a puncture and have a mechanic replace the tube with a new one. Thanks for the video, yes I have fading memories of the old style repair kits but never had to use one.
I've found the "Slime" to be hit and miss. Sometimes it works, sometimes it don't. Just had a puncture a couple days ago on my bike, I put slime in, it slowed the leak down enough that I made it the 4 miles home from work, but trying to patch tubes with the garbage patch kits they offer now I've never had luck with. The tubes are paper thin and so are the tires. Thinking of getting solid rubber "tubes", forget all that other nonsense...way too many different types of burrs where I live.
I used the tiny tyre weld type inflator spray (£3, like shaving foam) from Decathlon years ago and I'm just patching the tube now. There's a larger slit and a medium hole and they're airtight in water. It plugged the hole and to test I pushed it out (like a blob of silicone) with a tool and it deflated quickly. Hopefully it will stay and work like tyre slime too. It'd be cheaper to buy and wouldn't slow the tyre down whilst in the toolkit. The Schrader valve always had a bit of resistance when first inflating but it's ok.
Okay, now here's the legit way: you put a drop of superglue on the puncture, you stretch the inner tube a couple of times, along the sides of the puncture, so the glue gets into the hole, sealing the tube. Wait for the glue to set. Done.
I like those patches in theory but they rarely work for me if the hole is anywhere near the seam, which it virtually always will be. It's just not worth the hassle to do it at the road side. ALWAYS take a spare tube and worry about whether to fix it later.
Probably a cheap brand or you're not using them properly. I use them for my road bike at 11 bar, thats a lot of pressure and I didn't have any problems so far.
@@redhunter1535 11bar! that's the best part of 160psi. what do use at the side of the road to get that pressure? I only ever inflate my tires to 100 psi max.
call me old style. pump the tube a bit, immerse in a bucket with water if you cant feel/hear where the hole is, dry it, sand it , a little cement and patch it. without cement its always a risk IMHO
People actually waste their time fixing a bicycle inner tube ? I just go buy another one. They’re not expensive. I will save them for a rainy do project 😂
Has anyone else noticed the manufacturers of the "china made" tubes, ALL seem to have the seams in the main surface area of the tube. Which makes it nearly impossible to get a patch to seal on the seam ? Making it easier to replace with another tube than repair it.
@@ryand141 it's hard to know 100percent, until the typical quality is seen at the consumer end. I'm aware of products that are outsourced by China to places like the Philippines and Taiwan as China find it as cheaper labour. Due to such a wide world of cheap quality manufacturing and no realistic quality assurance only quantity as the primary focus. It's getting to a point where consumers will hopefully stop continually supporting inferior products that are trending to have "Made in China" on the packaging.
I take 3 spare tubes out with me. 1 butyl and 2 TPUs. I wouldn't use the patch this guy's using. Traditional patches will last the lifetime of your tyre.
Those patches are useless. They are good for sticking pictures on the wall, but never on a bicycle tube. I have tried all types of cement but still, it leaks. I have run out of options when it comes to fixing my bicycle tube punctures. I never had any success so far.
heck, this guy is the Bob Ross of bike repairs. Such a soothing voice. Very nice and very informative Video.
Bahahahaha........ agreed he is truly an artist at his craft!
Jim, in my bike service shop, I’ve developed a trick to make the search for the cause of the puncture trivial. Before you remove the inner tube from the tire, index the tube and the tire. Mark the tire where the valve stem is. I use a ball point pen and put a small mark on the sidewall of the drive side of the tire, to show where the valve stem was. Then, mark the inner tube to indicate the drive side of the inner tube.
What that does is allow me to reproduce the exact orientations of the inner tube and tire. After I patch the inner tube, I can then realign the inner tube and tire, and the new patch will show me exactly where to find the object that caused the puncture, if it remains in the tire.
A word about those peel and stick patches: I patch a couple hundred inner tubes a year in my shop. I have never seen an old, functioning, peel and stick patch. I have patched dozens of inner tubes with failed peel and stick patches. They are temporary, at best. I do not recommend them and don’t sell them in my shop.
Glueless patches are worthless. I wish that wasn't the true but my experience says otherwise.
Index the hole that's a very good tip. A month ago I had a flat. The tyre at a first sight was just fine, even when passing my finger inside it.
But using that index method I've found 2 invisible little thorns inside it. If I didn't do that I would have got another flat immediately.
Even better: When reassembling the tyre onto the rim, align the text (tyre name) position with the valve. So no explicit marking is needed next time as you know by default that the tyre label itself is the implicit valve marking.
@@MiccaPhone of course, that works fine if you are the only one who has ever touched that tire installation!
Hi
Would you be able to have a video of your instructions?
I'm a newbie and to be honest struggled a bit with your instructions.
Regards
Guv
I usually carry a couple of spares and a glue kit for longer rides. Like most people here, I find those stick on patches are pretty unreliable. I usually wait until i have about 5 or 6 tubes then spend a few minutes fixing them at home. 3 coats of glue, couple on the patch, overnight with some weights on them and they're good to go. I've got some tubes that are more patch than tube now.
1. Jim... your moustache is epic
2. This video was like watching a Bob Ross painting tutorial - EXCELLENT
I was thinking Mister Rogers but Bob Ross is perfect!
Man, thanks 👍
Watch this @ 2X speed playback. All is quite clear and well explained.
I always blow my inner tube up and hold it to my wheel where the valve would go to get an idea where the thorn or object might be in the tyre.
Me, too.
With some semtex?
Great video Jim- clear, concise and to the point.
I've long held the view that it's best to simply use my spare tube (having first carefully inspected the tyre for thorns, shards of flint, glass, etc), in the event of a puncture, and take the punctured tube home for repair where it's warm, clean and dry. Granted that plans fails in the instance of a second puncture but so far luck has been with me!
Whilst great care is required, I've found a fingertip search of the inside of the tyre is sometimes needed to locate the offending intrusion - but I can't stress enough the need for caution as clearly the item will be needle / razor sharp!!
A fair point, but I always try to fix a puncture first, the spare tube is the last resort, as once fitted, you have no back up if you get another flat, which has happened to me a number of times, as I tend to be off road 90% of the time, which makes punctures more likely.
Such GREAT EXPERT videos Jim presents . . . I've found that if you are having trouble finding the puncture, try running the tube really close under your nose - an extra sensitive spot to help detect air escaping ! Happy trails!
I've never had one of those sticky patches work for me. I've gone through a whole pack and it's never adhered properly. Only thing I can think of is I roughed the tube up too much, the sticky part touched my fingers and got oil on it, sometimes I draw a circle around the hole with a marker and that interferes, or maybe I didn't rub it hard enough. I thought they were just a bad product but after watching this I might try again.
0:40 100%! I won´t ever forget how i cycled around Manchester full of rubbish all over the place as a messenger on gravel tyres Continental - good brand, good reviews on the particular tyres, 15 quid each. worthless. for half a year I was getting punctures all the time, when it was only once a week that was a blessed week, sometimes it was more than once a day. I was even trying good old tricks as placing old tubes without valves in between the tubes and tyres as an extra protection, helped a little, then upgraded for a strip of carpet, helped a little more, but still plenty punctures. once I god fed up and swapped them for high quality puncture more resistant tyres from Challenge, 50 quid each, and I was waiting for my first puncture another half a year and that thorn was nearly ready to puncture a car tyre. no need to go into details how quickly that investment paid off on saved time and morale. sticky patches - I tried them once and didn´t work. so I´m back to the old school and with good patches it works just good. but yes, it is a hassle so thanks to your video I will try the new ones again. also, the old school patches usually come quite large whereas the punctures are usually no more than 1mm. I cut them in halfs, quarters or even more if large enough. just need to work them in and also hit the hole with the center of the patch better then with a bigger one. I find it easier, less wasting and even though marginally, adding less weight. the only thing I was missing in the video was the promised topic on when is the tube ready to be dismissed, I was looking forward it...
I couldn’t agree more. Everything I needed, nothing I didn’t. Thanks so much for the very helpful tutorial!!
I always start the hunt for the source of the puncture by looking around the tyre before removing the inner tube. If you find a thorn/flint, you know where the hole in the inner tube will be.
I'm still searching for a good way to mark the location of a puncture on the inner tube accurately. I've seen people suggest making the hole larger so it is easily visible - that just seems crazy!
Clear, comprehensive and helpful information. Thank you
Thanks Jim. Would appreciate feedback on Bruno's comment below that the patches you used are temporary and not as good as the old glue hot patches method for a long term fix. I have had a lot of issues with the temporary patches staying on over time.
They are temporary. Electric tape is about as useful.
Hi Jim. My rim cracked during a ride,which resulted in a butyl inner tube having a cut.Would patching work on a such tube.The length of the cut is approximately the same as diameter of the patch.I've already put 2 patches,one is half on top of the other,there is a slow leak after couple of hours it loses pressure.Should I try to put another patch or just bin it?
I've managed to patch the cut by putting 3 patches one on top of the other,as diameter of each was less than the cut,but combined it work
Thank you so much, I was struggling to get my tire back on. Thanks to you I successfully did it
TIPS:
If you have difficulty finding the hole, try this:
Pass the tube very close to your upper lip. It's a very sensitive area and you will "feel" the air.
OR
Add dish soap to water then stir so there are bubbles. Then use a sponge and rub it on the tire. It will blow bubbles where the hole is.
Add to your kit one of those tiny wipes they use at the hospital after using a syringe. Very good to clean the inner tube! You can find them for cheap at any pharmacy.
provided you have no big moustache .... lol
i still do find the old school repair kit better, i keep the instant one in the sadle bag but for the workshop repair i think it is better to use the old school method
You are correct.
Awaiting 2 new treaded tyres for my e-bike which, loaded with 2x panniers of shopping, developed a puncture after getting home. It was a wet day, the tyres were slick and the bike very heavy, not surprising really. These couple of puncture/tyre change tutorial vids are really handy reminders and will make my repair job much easier come the day. Yes, I will def. be carrying a spare tube from now on. 👍
At least from what I've seen, you should use the cold/self adhesive patches only for emergency repairs and hot patch it at home, since that fuses the patch to the tire.
Just like the old days when you waved a match around the patch area. Seems to kind of fuse everything together.
Jim is a brilliant tutor. May I suggest an idea💡 for a video - fixing a tubeless tyre at the roadside please.
I’d love to see a video on that same topic!
Hopefully the roadside spot will have his caravan there with all his workshop ready to go ! Good practical video. Job done
Put a tube in it.
Excellent video, thank you Jim! Clear, easy to understand, comprehensive. Well done.
Nice video. I have not seen the stick on patches here, only glue version. The sealant liquid does not really work for me and mostly just causes a mess. On my way to work, I had the fun of only 8 thorns in my front MTB wheel at the same time. It was fun to patch. Fortunately, not all penetrated.
Wow. Excellent tips. Thank you for helping us out! Cheers!
I just discovered even I can understand this... is just excellent. Thank you forever 🕺
I simply pack a replacement tube, tire removal tool, and a small air pump with me on my rides. Replacing the tube is easier and quicker than trying to find a tiny puncture hole especially if you are on the side of a busy road or around an unsafe part of town. I rather deal with repairing the punctured tube at home. Also, I have found the quick peel on patches useless for high pressure tires on road bikes (80-120 psi). They work on lower pressure tires but never last long on high psi tires.
Cool video! May I suggest alcohol swabs are great for stick on patches! They weigh nothing and store in the patch kit. Oils from your skin really disrupt the sticking so I clean the tire and my fingers with my alcohol swab. Once it’s clean I stick it on and it lasts forever👍
Mine is at the valve stem..Thanks so much for getting that out of the way ASAP. You are the best
Excellent as always!
Thanks, Jim, awesome. Did not know they have a new version of the repair kit. Sound much more convenient!
BTW, you promise to tell us how many repairs can an inner tube take? as many as you want?
Thanks mate. Really informative. Top man
Never had any luck with pre glued patches for a road bike.
Same here. I tend to take a few ‘glueless’ patches and ‘old school’ patches and tube of glue. Bib and braces maybe but they take up little room in the saddle bag so why not?
Did you roughen up the puncture site with a piece of sandpaper before applying such a patch?
@@sbccbc7471 I did, always do 👍
Well done demo and camera work there. As far as on the seam patching, is there a specific technique to use for a more secured adhering of it to that uneven surface ?
Pre glued ones not as reliable.
That’s what I have read
Yep, never had any luck with these new patch kits, or the other ones he talked about that use rubber cement....the really old school vulcanizing patch kits worked every time...had to literally burn the patch onto the tube, but never had one fail. Now, I just carry extra tubes, have a flat I replace the tube and throw the bad one away, no sense wasting time with patches, they might stick for a while but fall off quickly, usually before you even get the tire back on the wheel. Far from impressed with the glue on or the self-stick patches.
Puncture repair kit for home repair, sticky quick patches for saddle bag. And agree about valve punctures - a nightmare, makes the inner tube basically useless. Having mainly gone tubeless, I only have one set of wheels with inner tubes.
Fixed a valve with electrical tape in a pinch. Also works better than sticker patches. Still don't recommend it.
Thank YOU! Jim very informative repair video help a lot :)
Puncture fixed. And the flint left inside the tire goes: "Yup, nailed it." 😮 Always double check your tires AND your rim tape after getting a flat.
He covers that in the other video. In fairness, this one is solely about repairing the puncture itself.
Thanks friend. Super helpful.
Thanks very much. I just wonder why the Front (vs.rear) Tube on my comfort bike: 1) keeps losing air comparatively fast; 2) keeps getting flats. Confounding!
Clear detailed explanation. Luv ur video
Keep a small container that has a nozzle tip which is filled with soapy water to use for locating the leak. Especially, useful under low light conditions. Or use your own spit to verify the leak location.
A very good explanation. Thanks
3 min in told me it's no good , ty , great video!
Must be the best “instructor”on the net😊
Not lacerate the surface but ABRADE the surface. Damn good tutorial
So how many patches are too many? Always a discussion among our group. Thanks
I kinda think it's a lost cause after 2 patches as inevitably one or the other will leak.
It depends on the use case (I have multiple bikes, so it varies):
> Race bike: latex tubes with no patches at all used with lightweight tyres e.g. Vittoria Corsa, Michelin Competition etc. Will probably move to tubeless once I build up my latest carbon wheel purchase.
> Commuter & Training bikes: I don't like waste, so 5 - 10 patches is my limit depending on age. I write the date on the tube with a Sharpie pen when I first install it and scrap it when it gets 5+ patches at 10 years old or ~10 patches if less than 10 years.
Note:
1. I tend to ride tyres till the stiching comes through (not throw them out when the get to the wear indicators, e.g. GP4000S2) so I tend to get more punctures towards the end of the tyre life which is not a big deal since it so cheap to repair tubes, my patch repairs always work and I don't get that many flats anyway.
2. I always have a good tread condition tyre on the front wheel for grip and safety reasons (don't want a sudden flat at 80km/h!)
3. However, I have just ordered some tyre liners to be used when the rear tyre has become squared off and only has a few months of life left - this should reduce my patch consumption and I don't expect it to add much rolling resistance (0.5mm Polyurethane liner weighing 33g) but we will see.
4. Schwalbe Durano Plus tyres are great as a rear tyre for commuting. I have yet to wear it down to the blue spongy protection layer. No idea on how many thousand km's.....
If you have actual rubber patches and cement, and you'll done it properly they shouldn't leak. Those stickers will always form a bulge, a little crease or wrinkle and will leak. There's just no way they will last, unlike regular rubber cement patches which should last a long, long time.
Try a Simson Leak Detector -- little styrofoam pellets in a mesh cage that dance around when they are passed over a leak.
Leak detected, doh!
The technique of putting it to your cheek to feel for air coming out is great, I use my lips instead though.
They're even more sensitive and it's easier to not lose track of where it was as it's already in line with your eyes
Or just dunk it in a bucket of water and check for bubbles, thats the easiest way
Good vid and teacher, thanks!
My dad taught me to put the tube in water to find all holes easily. Not always possible but it works so well.
Yep, quickest and easiest way especially once you get older and have some hearing loss.
thank you for great lesson just repaired inner tube and thanks to your tips it went well
To clean the inner tube do you suggest to use a little piece of sand paper or that little metal thing some of them have included?
He does exactly that in the video!
How big of a hole is too large to repair? I haven’t had much success with the ready sticky patches.
Great, you explained how to use the easy one, not the one where there's actually something to have doubts about, the one where you put glue on
Why use the difficult option when an easy one exists?
@@shoneybear maybe because that's all what you got
Great clear content as always, any chance of a video on your moustache? It’s a beauty and am trying to grow one myself so any guidance would be appreciated - I’m guesssing your Tom Ritcheys long lost son.
I can totally support you in your endeavours
@@jimthebikeguy thanks not sure I can grow one like yours but nothing ventured!
Is a slit puncture worth attempting to repair?
Well done!
Wot do i do if i havent got a bike pump does blowing in it work??
Great vid as usual. Now pop that back onto your shopper & go get some more tea bags.
Wilco 👍
Hi bro ,I have one question .Should my bike upgrade cannodale badboy 700 CC ? Thank U.
we can use soap spray on tube or dip tube in water to detect leak hole ?
Yes but you have to make it perfect dry after for the patch.
Nine time out of ten it's always the rear wheel. So if you've brought a spare inner tube along then you may as well go ahead and use that one and repair the punctured inner tube when you get home. Also you can't have too many tyre levers, they have been known to snap at the crucial moment, so always bring more than you think you will need.
Can a 18" inner tube fit a 20"x4.0 wheel if you put a pool noodle in the tire. What other size inner tubes can fit a 20"x4.0 bike wheel or fat tire wheel ?
A motorcycle 16x3 tube may be worth a go, I would advise a 16x3 MC tyre to go with it
Jim: Are those M/Off patches a permanent repair? as many brands seem to come off after a while............. and I only view them as a get you home option usually, until a old school repair can be done.
I never have any issues with them.
They pretend they are permanent, but yes, I've had more of them come off, or not stick at all. Wish they'd just bring back the old school vulcanizing patch kits that you literally burned the patch on. Never had any of those fail, these stick on patches are pretty useless.
Well done Jim. Good clear video with a nice touch of humour. Once I was travelling from Adelaide to Sydney, pulled off the road for food and rest, woe be into a patch of three cornered jacks (sharp spiny little *&#@*) After 6 punctures merrily on way again.
Aussie here too, still getting thorns of some sort in Peterborough this time of year, it's not caltrop season, I use fat bike and Burley trailer
Very helpful thank you 🙏🏼
Against the eye and you'll easily detect the air leak.. Keep the tyre maker lined up the valve when fitting.. This will help you zero in on the area of the tyre where there might be a thorn / flint etc....
Why not just replace the innertube in the field and patch the holey one at home?
My punctures are swap the tubular tire , and repair the puncture at home. Rare that my Victoria's or contis puncture. . But when they do it's an hour of sowing and gluing. Lo,
Can anyone tell me what the actual name of these newer style sticky patches are? Compared to the tin kits you get
Instant patch, pre glued super patch, Slime Skabs, smart patch
I like this guy.
I use my top lip to feel the waft of air. Seems to be my most sensative part.
Thank you
I think the best patch kits were the ones that required matches or a lighter. Hot patch kits seemed to work the best, I think they were called Vulcanizing patches. Too bad they no longer make those because well dumb people would burn themselves or set something on fire. I've never had much luck with any of those stick on type patches, I just end up replacing the tube since I have to take everything apart anyways.
stick on patches suck, i never had luck with them, dunno how he has ,maybe he pays over the odds for premium brands ,the the generic brands of them all suck, ill stick to rubber solution glue and dry patch, it takes no extra space in the bike pouch
Power Plus was a brand of hot patch I remember in Australia
I had the worst luck on my last outdoor ride….somehow managed to get 5…yes 5 punctures….how do you prepare for that? Ran out of co2, mini pump couldn’t hack it…in the end I just gave up and had to get rescued.
I’d just add that the punctures were in both wheels…so even my spare tube wasn’t enough
5 is a bad day. Nobody can win against that
Two punctures is my tolerance level. I've had a couple instances where I then had a third and that was a signal for me to call it a day. Taxi home or the "pick-up of shame" from the wife. :)
On a rush no patch available use small amount of crazy glue with small size paper or use sandpaper sand dark rubber from old tube again crazy glue powder rubber on top
Is it required to play A Shave and a Haircut with the pump?...
I am an urban bike rider and I have wondered about the "slime" that can be added prior to getting a puncture or any kind of "goo" one can introduce via the valve after receiving a puncture. The objective being to get to a bike repair shop after a puncture and have a mechanic replace the tube with a new one. Thanks for the video, yes I have fading memories of the old style repair kits but never had to use one.
Yeah, i know what you mean. I dont like them as they tend to make the wheels heavy in one place so they wobble, and they cause other problems.
@@jimthebikeguy Thank you for your reply
I've found the "Slime" to be hit and miss. Sometimes it works, sometimes it don't. Just had a puncture a couple days ago on my bike, I put slime in, it slowed the leak down enough that I made it the 4 miles home from work, but trying to patch tubes with the garbage patch kits they offer now I've never had luck with. The tubes are paper thin and so are the tires. Thinking of getting solid rubber "tubes", forget all that other nonsense...way too many different types of burrs where I live.
I used the tiny tyre weld type inflator spray (£3, like shaving foam) from Decathlon years ago and I'm just patching the tube now.
There's a larger slit and a medium hole and they're airtight in water. It plugged the hole and to test I pushed it out (like a blob of silicone) with a tool and it deflated quickly.
Hopefully it will stay and work like tyre slime too. It'd be cheaper to buy and wouldn't slow the tyre down whilst in the toolkit.
The Schrader valve always had a bit of resistance when first inflating but it's ok.
I still use slimed tube while riding in thorny areas ... seems to work well.
Okay, now here's the legit way: you put a drop of superglue on the puncture, you stretch the inner tube a couple of times, along the sides of the puncture, so the glue gets into the hole, sealing the tube. Wait for the glue to set. Done.
Ty!
the best video for idiots like me- thanks Jim
Most sensitive areas to detect very small punctures are lips held near the tyre and even more sensitive you eyeball.
Fabulous
I once used a deep pot hole full of water to find a puncture lol did the job
I was thinking the mini tube was from a kids bike LOL
I like those patches in theory but they rarely work for me if the hole is anywhere near the seam, which it virtually always will be. It's just not worth the hassle to do it at the road side. ALWAYS take a spare tube and worry about whether to fix it later.
This Ladd knows a thing or two about a thing or two "
In my experience, the self adhesive patches are dog do doo. Every time I’ve used one it’s failed.
Probably a cheap brand or you're not using them properly.
I use them for my road bike at 11 bar, thats a lot of pressure and I didn't have any problems so far.
@@redhunter1535
11bar! that's the best part of 160psi.
what do use at the side of the road to get that pressure? I only ever inflate my tires to 100 psi max.
call me old style. pump the tube a bit, immerse in a bucket with water if you cant feel/hear where the hole is, dry it, sand it , a little cement and patch it. without cement its always a risk IMHO
tpu?
Like a lot of riders, I find these self-adhesive patches unreliable. Always use the old-fashioned glue on ones.
Go for brand name quality glue & patch, cheap stuff look the same but not holding up, that will be a waste of money and most importantly, time !
People actually waste their time fixing a bicycle inner tube ? I just go buy another one. They’re not expensive. I will save them for a rainy do project 😂
Has anyone else noticed the manufacturers of the "china made" tubes, ALL seem to have the seams in the main surface area of the tube. Which makes it nearly impossible to get a patch to seal on the seam ? Making it easier to replace with another tube than repair it.
Brilliant tutorials. 👍
shave some of the seam down near hole
Which ones are not made in China? Are they better?
@@ryand141 it's hard to know 100percent, until the typical quality is seen at the consumer end. I'm aware of products that are outsourced by China to places like the Philippines and Taiwan as China find it as cheaper labour. Due to such a wide world of cheap quality manufacturing and no realistic quality assurance only quantity as the primary focus. It's getting to a point where consumers will hopefully stop continually supporting inferior products that are trending to have "Made in China" on the packaging.
@@johndee68 Which inner tubes are not made in China? Which brands I mean? Thx.
11:08 🤣
lol. Lets say I live in an area with a lot of angry drunks (= broken glass)
You're not repairing the puncture -- you're eliminating it by repairing the tube.
I take 3 spare tubes out with me. 1 butyl and 2 TPUs. I wouldn't use the patch this guy's using. Traditional patches will last the lifetime of your tyre.
Those patches are useless. They are good for sticking pictures on the wall, but never on a bicycle tube. I have tried all types of cement but still, it leaks. I have run out of options when it comes to fixing my bicycle tube punctures. I never had any success so far.
Just go tubeless… never have to fix an inner tube again