Water Loss During Composting Impacts
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- Опубліковано 25 січ 2024
- Approximately 400 L or more is evaporated from every tonne of composting material. When we compost outdoors, we hardly notice. When we compost indoors, we may be surprised, perhaps because we can’t see anything, or because its raining inside, or because our building is corroding. We will calculate the water loss, then discover what may be in that water!
Excellent video, straightforward practical to the point no b/s
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Great explanations with excellent photos!
Thanks!
Very intresting topic, especially corrosion.
Very good video as always 🇳🇿
Thanks!
It seems like a "ton" of Waste considering Composting is a Natural Process that will take place on it's own if left alone. Of course, it might not work so well without adding water in a place like Arizona, Texas or New Mexico and other places with Dry Climates.
Indeed, composting will take place on its own if left alone. We don't always have the luxury of the time and space required to allow this to happen on its own.
I am learning a lot from your videos. I only have a small garden with a relative small pile of leaf, and wood chip, and coffee grounds compost that I started last fall. The pile is about half a cubic meter large. I was turning it every day except not when it was freezing outside. When I turned the pile again after the freeze the bottom of the pile did smell a bit anaerobe.
A while ago I made a bubbler from PVC pipes for creating compost tea inside a barrel, but that never worked really well because I did not get a consistent result. After watching your videos I am planning to repurpose the bubbler that I made, but now I am going to put my compost pile on top of it. The maximum amount of air that I can pump into it is about 95 liters per minute. If needed I can put a timer on it so that I can adjust the amount of air that I can pump into it. And instead of a blower fan I am going to use a pond piston air compressor. I am too curious so I have to try it and see if it works.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge. If I get any positive results I will share it as well 👍
Thank you for sharing - sounds like a great plan with the little air pump. I would recommend putting a timer on it - there are some small timers available for very little money that work really well for small blowers.
Thank you for your response and your advise. I will use a timer for sure. I am also going to monitor the temperature inside the pile. Do you know anything about the micro biology that is inside the finished product after the aerated composting process is done? For example Dr. Johnson claims that the Johnson and Su bio reactor method produces a fungal dominated compost. Is that something that you have studied?
Thank you for your question. I don't have any practical experience with the Johnson and Su bioreactor but it appears to be a system that includes a lot of browns (woodwaste) and only a small amount of greens. Based on my experience, yes, when the bacteria are finished with the readily available carbon, the fungal community is likely to dominate. We have seen this as well with older windrows that have a high percentage of wood waste.
Thank you so much for taking your time to answer. Yes the main ingredient for the Johnson and Su reactor is wood chips. Approximately 3 parts carbon and one part nitrogen rich material. I see many similarities between your method and the Johnson and Su bio reactor and the basic principles behind the two methods. Except that the motorized forced aeration method doesn't take a year to mature the compost. And there is much better control of eliminating the possible pathogens. Which I prefer. @@TransformCompost
A one year composting process fits some based on their resources and their access to land. Not every one has the luxury of doing a one year compost process.