It’s actually a very well written and comprehensive book ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxhgbP-6hUnXu_QRaoHgLztgsI0YF3HqR0 . I wanted to pair this with an updated book on local codes to start planning a post-retirement dream shop. I think I have just about everything I need between the two. The extra plans available for purchase towards the end are priced almost as much as full home plans, not little sheds however.
Love the show.... I’m a professional plaster board install and finisher in the states...”drywaller” one tip on hanging your plaster board on a cabinet wall. Your longest sheets of plaster board, rip it in half.... start with that on the floor... then stack the sheets... by doing that, you’ll have no visible seams. They will be hidden behind the cabinets. And your counter tops will not be hindered by any plaster mud :-) I’m buying a shirt
Just because you did drywall on your renovated powder room one weekend with the boys does not mean you're a professional. jk that's a good tip, thank you.
Good tip, but its also a sealing component for bugs. Every wonder how infestations come from kitchens? thats why, because the seam is hidden behind the kitchen counters to "save time" - especially if you have no insulation and a brick cavity around the timber wall frame ( Australian homes)
@@novosib9017 I always finish the flat seams behind the cabinets ... mainly because as drywaller, you don’t know where the cabinets begin or end, or if there a stove etc... anywhere that back wall would be seen. Plus they pay you to do everything. Even it would save you a bunch of time, not finishing it would be dishonest...I prefer my customers to tell their friends good things about me and my work... like most big learning curves in life...I learned that one, hard way! I bet the bugs that get in through the kitchen, it would be through a penetration in wall... like a drain pipe. And the hole in the plaster board that was made for the pipe was cut too big, And then it wasn’t sealed up before the fixtures were set.
You're one of the easiest people to watch, that sounds funny but there are so many channels where that's not the case, good work bro...always learn something of every vid...
Pair of sweet SMOKO TIME mugs ..... delivered all the way to most easterly town in England in less than a week ..... highly recommended ...... Great channel ;)
Coming from the states I love watching this and seeing how the world builds, and adapts. Its odd to see some stuff cause I have a similar climate in sunny and very moist Florida but I love this channel its making me more excited for my GC exam every time I watch. Keep making smiles Scott
Its cold and wet in North America today. Love your channel for the carpentry tips and tricks, and for the relaxing music and urban NZ scenery. Don't do carpentry but find it relaxing watching you doing it.
Been watching you for a while now scott im a kiwi guy have just caught up with ur vids and really could have used this advice 2 months ago restoring a 1910 villa but had to do the unthinkable.....pay to get a bloke in to straighten the walls! thanks mate all the best,Rock
Ive been a builder in Canada for almost 10 years now, you wouldn't believe what we got to do to make our houses last. Were talking 2 foot concrete foundations, r30 insulation in the walls and r50 in the attic, 2x6 exterior walls and the rafters got a new code now with way more horizontal bracing, all because it snows and its cold here
i have the 40v saw as well and can confirm it is now my go to carry around site with me all day tool, for the amount of power it has it is re lightweight, the depth adjustment is accurate quick and easy and the rafter hook is more useful than it looks. its a ballsy saw! 10/10 for me
Blue Plasterboard in Scotland indicates " Soundblock " .... Pink - Fireline, .... Green - Moisture, .... Grey/White - General Purpose, .... White G-Tec - for partitions, linings and ceilings where normal, fire, structural and acoustic levels are specified. Keep pumping out the vids Scott. Great content. :)
In NZ you can use rigid air barrier/sheathing as bracing. Either fibre cement, plywood, OSB etc. I work in a drafting firm and commonly on new houses we use rigid air barriers in a lot of situations regardless of the wind zone requirement. It also speeds up getting the building closed in.
I design homes with Pryda wall truss brace's and sometimes (not very often) I design timber homes with a car shock absorber attached to the end of a diagonal brace (to absorb some of the earthquake energy).
Not going to argue code in a different country but it is definitely different than how we achieve the same effect in Canada. Mind you wildly different climates and raw resources lead to solving similar problems in different ways. Your structural drywall is serving the same sheer strength we usually achieve with osb (oriented strand board) exterior sheathing. Although I remember a brief period where we used fire rated drywall instead of osb on exterior walls which was a nightmare to try and stand walls stick framing and gave me no confidence in the sheer strength then or now. Now we use fire rated osb on walls within a minimum distance to a neighboring building and add fire rated fiberglass drywall if it encroaches even further into the minimum lot setbacks (usually just on the fireplace stack unless the engineer/architect gets fancy). Your interior drywall and anchors reminds me more of commercial builds like hotels with interior engineered sheer walls that have to be sheeted with specific staple/nail patterns to provide rigidity to the structure. But still those use osb or plywood here. The closest to interior structural drywall I usually see is double layered 5/8s fire rated on partition walls on adjoining units in a duplex, or condo complex. My past anecdotal experience relying on plaster board for sheer strength makes me leery when I see it used as a structural component but like I said different climates and resource pipelines make for different approaches. I enjoy your channel specifically because my own small contracting company works on virtually identical scale and scope projects as you do. Also you approach things from a different enough perspective that I've picked up a lot of useful tidbits watching your project videos.
Holy shit. The laser trick. I don’t believe it. That’s absolutely genius. I’m doing this at the moment with a crooked wall I’m trying to stud, and I was just going to use small packing blocks. This is so much more elegant
Hey Scott suggestion -you should get a Werner extend a stage. Also in the states code shows that you can fill exterior walls with 1” rigid foam😂😂 always love showing people how I would break into their half million dollar home with a swift kick. Great video I would prolly say you have #1 carpentry show
We use ply bracing sheets in Australia with a similar nail pattern, still use the M12 bolts at the base but we dont require the brackets.. we can nail off plaster board to achieve bracing resistance here but its just not commonly done..
Seeing you and the boys multitool the plaster board perfectly for the electrical boxes is inspiring. I'm an electrician and I usually mark the floors, take measurements in my diary of where every power point and switch is. I'm lucky if the plasterers make a small hole for my cable to poke out of the wall and the wall isn't so offset that it needs to be patched
@@cmmartti not for me mate. In Australia we don't use boxes unless it's specified for fire suppression or required for the specific job. We use brackets that just nail to the frame. Even if we did use the boxes though the plasterers would still just sheet straight over a 10mm lip and not give a fuck. Unfortunately the good plasterers aren't around that much because there's always someone heaps cheaper than them
Hey Scott Brown, just wanted to say I love your content! I found your channel in December, and I just finished finished watch your entire back catalogue of videos. I'm not a builder or a tradie at all, I just like watching this kind of stuff. I find it like watching grand designs but without the crappy host that they have. Keep up the good work
Ok i just want to say what you do is amazing. I lived in a constent home improuvement house where the contractor was my father. Lets just say he should stick to electrician and leave finishing to professionals. Seeing this good work tickles the part in my brain that controls joy
Neat and fussy as usual and even more NZ inspections. We can build an entire new house with only three inspections and it shows. New one for me Bracing Gyproc. So a paper covered layer of gypsum that turns to mush when damp is classed as bracing even if it is a special sheet I don't get it. I'm sure some boffin somewhere did the calculations and deemed it fit. Would I use it on my own house. I think not.
Good news, looks like things are lining up for me. If things go as planned I will be an Apprentice around March. Maybe a bit sooner. The guy I spoke to is expecting work to become available around that time. Will be getting that endorsement I need for the union. I am excited to join the club! Watching your videos and that of other carpenters is inspirational. The only difference is I will working with metal frames. At least for now. Eventually I hope to learn more... Keep up making these awesome videos. -Cheers
Always a joy to watch you and crew work. Still don’t have the XGT 40v Makita tools in states yet. Believe we get them in March, maybe but sooner, from those “little birdies” that tell ya things😉 You guys are so great 2gether..... “we don’t fail inspections......we adjust”. That’s a great way of looking at it. Love it👍🏻
We do things a lot different. If the plaster board/drywall is used to brace the exterior walls, then what keeps the walls braced until you get to that stage??
You don't always need it a super lot framing out an add on depending on how your addition ties into the old existing house. You can reasonably count on the existing building to be laterally rigid.
@@levelseven9841 There's no one general way to do things. You have to use techniques suited to the situation on hand. If you want specific techniques you would need to give me some details of the type of construction your doing and paypal me a consultation fee.
Sealing is a sore point here in New Zealand. From the late 1980s to the mid 2000s builders put up houses that leaked and rotted. Flashing was replaced with silicon beading. The reason Scott is doing so much on old houses is because buyers are reluctant to build new homes. We know the old ones didn't leak and rot so we pay a premium for houses built before 1986. Modern sheathing systems will be ignored here for another 20 years and then authorities will suddenly 'discover' them as a new innovation.
@@tellthemborissentyou What were they doing to mess up almost 20 years of houses? I mean drying in a house is not a new concept; caulk assists but does not replace flashing.
@@tellthemborissentyou plaster for bracing? comon New Zealand. First its pine in the ground now this! :D...iam aware its the engineering standard, but surely its time to raise the standard? (great Quality work as Usual btw)
I've seen some newer builds here in NZ using an exterior sheathing with integrated weather barrier, but it isn't common here, yet. There is a growing passive house movement in NZ but apart from that much of the industry doesn't seem to be focused on airtightness.
That's what I was wondering, how much effect does the seismic stuff have on what's code or not? And has that (and recent bad quake) influenced how much inspection you get? Cheers
NZ building code requires bracing for wind and earthquake. Some new construction uses external sheathing now, but GIB/drywall can be used as part of a bracing strategy (provided it's affixed as Scott showed).
Would love to see a video on insulation in this house. Not sure if you got the required footage when you could. What the r-value is, stud depth etc etc.
Plasterboard as a structural element would be laughed at in US seismic areas. Need structural plywood with hellacious amounts of nails and hardware, with all sorts of internal sheer walls and structural connectors. A few added crappy/brittle drywall screws at the corners of plasterboard are effectively a joke. Sadly, New Zealand will learn the hard way that they need to significantly increase their building code seismic requirements. Christchurch was a bit of a wake-up call, but if plasterboard is accepted practice, they've got a long road ahead. California has seen multiple code revisions as they learn more with every major quake. As a builder, I finally think they've got seismic requirements where they need to be. We did a lot of freeway seismic upgrades - many older structures had seen multiple upgrades that failed. Some of the bridge foundations from the 50s/60s/early 70s that we retrofitted were shockingly underdesigned - I sometimes feared working under them while we did upgrades. Now-a-days, new designs are robust and finally look 'skookum', but it took 50 years and multiple earthquake failures/hundreds of billions in damages to boost design standards high enough.
Nice one Scott, it’s a pity that we don’t have ANY inspection in residential housing here in Western Australia, maybe then we wouldn’t get the crap that the project builder dish out. Well done NZ. 👍
Drywall as sheer - that's nuts, haha! Although there are plenty of old houses around where I am in the states that are being held up by paint and habit.
Coming from the US I thought it was pretty bizarre as well! But it seems to work here. The NZ code accounts for wind and earthquake load in their bracing requirements.
@@dijo7086 What you said is simply not true, I design houses, most of my clients want a house designed stronger than the minimum standard, they don't wan't a house with long term problems. There are many things that can be done to lower the cost of building a new home, for example.. the blocking of floor joists do not need to be the same size in certain places, the deepth of the blocking can be smaller. Blocking, dwangs etc, could possibly be made from No2 grade timber...there are many many ways to cut costs. Builders put studs at close centers on 2.4 height non load bearing walls.. which is over kill. I could go on and on...
With all of the inspections required for New Zealand home construction, I hope getting an inspector to site is done relatively quickly when they are called.
We used sheathing as both moisture control, and bracing. I'm wondering about the intensity of storms there in NZ, here in SE Louisiana the bracing method you use would fail during the hurricane season. (and in general sheathing is 4" nails center to center (non offset heads) (nail guns so good))
Our hurricanes are called tropical cyclones because Southern Hemisphere. Usually by the time they get to NZ they have degraded ... but there are the occasional exceptions. So I don’t think they’re as bad or as frequent as Louisiana (edit a word)
It looks like NZ standards account for wind speeds up to 55 m/s or ~123 mph, so less than any major hurricane. For wind speeds above that amount, an engineer would have to get involved. Typically, the bracing requirements in the NZ standards are for wind and earthquake based on risk/zone
when you said you were using plasterboard as bracing at the start of the video i thought wtf, but thanks for the explanation, here in Aus we only really use ply of strap bracing
G,day Scott Brown Carpenter from Sydney, Australia. * the laser level can replace the string line, Ok. * Gypsum (blue sheet) bracing, and depending on wind category: not a substitute for external bracing alternatives? Will still need to meet AS 1684. Have fun🌏🇭🇲
Inner walls, I rarely see any sort of cross-bracing that I seem to see overseas on walls. I do see it on outer walls, but rarely inner walls. Generally just an aluminium frame, one at the bottom, one at the top and straight beams with a gap between 450 distance, centre to centre. So... I guess in my country, they brace walls less and focus more on the support weight to the roof on certain points and care null about what happens in-between.
Get yourself a drywall gun the impact actually creates pulverize gypsum around the screw. with the movement of the building will make screws pop after they get taped because the screw is holding back more brittle drywall. So the purpose of a drywall gun is that it doesn't have any impact and it lets you adjust the dimple perfectly which is why it has that cone shape. also get a drywall T to sheets
Plywood is stronger than plasterboard, NZ homes are poorly braced. I design homes with Pryda wall truss brace's and sometimes (not very often) I design timber homes with a car shock absorber attached to the end of a diagonal brace (to absorb some of the earthquake energy). Shock absorbers or viscous dampers are a lot better than wall truss bracing or plywood bracing, but more expensive.
Hi, for all those non K1W1 residents, when The Man said we are having a holiday this week he was referring to Auckland Anniversary Day which is a paid public holiday. Here in Godzone we are entitled by law to at least 4 weeks' paid annual leave a year if we work regular hours in a full-time or part-time job. This does not include the additional entitlement to paid 11 days public holidays pay and 5 days sick leave. So there is your forty odd days you can go fishing or hunting, good one Aye? Harera...
@@1978sjt Hi Simon, yes you are spot on, we were one of the first to get a 40 hour week thanks to a chippy in 1840 called Samuel Parnell. I still remember working a 48 hour week in the fifties when I worked on a conveyer in a factory in Uk when we worked a half day on Saturday! Crazy hours and worse on a night shift. Mind you I do remember that here in NZ we had a law that protected women from working in factories after 6pm. Harera...
i can just imagine if there is any movement that the plasterboard around the screws would crumble away or the screws would shear... maybe we have different drywall screws in england
@@flyingjackcarpentry9394 i presume it’s different, he mentioned the blue plasterboard was specifically different to the white plasterboard used on the non structural walls so i guess it’s designed to withstand more strain
@@oscarhelliwell9685 Yea, I did type my first comment before he got to that part. But it's still weird for me. In England timber framed buildings are rare. It's all brick and blockwork. And that will still move and crack with wind and ground subsidence. So relying on plasterboards and drywall screws to shore a building up seems dicey to me. And surely at a point, the more screws you put it the weaker it gets?
@@flyingjackcarpentry9394 yeah, I guess the timber just has abit more flex so instead of cracking it just warps. And I’m no expert but I guess you’d need a lot of screws for that to be the case 😂
Coming from the US this idea baffled me as well! But it seems to work; NZ code regarding bracing is specifically for wind and earthquake loads based on the risk of whatever zone the house is in.
Hi Scott, just a bit confused about the insulation. I remember a previous video where you said something about NZ houses not being insulated for the most part..or did I get that completely wrong? Cheers, Mandy
Up until recently they did not have to be insulated, so when renovating an old house, it's a chance to retrospectively insulate. Sadly it's expensive and many home owners don't do, so people continue living in cold damp houses :(
That`s a definitely nice tutorial. However, how to set up your laser level with high accuracy in parallel to the wall, please? Any imperfectness with this can be reflected on studs alignment. Do you recommend to use a plastic edge trim stapled to studs instead? Also, some studs problem can be even more complex that just one side bow. It can be waived or even turned around its axle... Can you specify how much studs deviation might be acceptable for further villaboard sheeting and 600*600mm porcelain tiling after? Thank you
The brand is "Ox", got a couple of them myself. They are quite lightweight and not too pricey. Use them to check lines are true, can use them to screed concrete too, or as a guide for your saw. Yes it's basically a level without bubble
So the interior plasterboard is your country's version of exterior sheathing (called boxing in the states) I did not see you using any construction adhesive on the studs prior to screwing the plasterboard. Gluing would add substantial strength to that 'element'. Wouldn't you agree?
I've always wondered, and can't find a straight forward answer on Google, where does plasterboard get started? I've seen it started at the bottom and the top of the wall and in the middle or the left/right of the wall too. Which is best? Cheers
Hey Scot i have noticed that every time u work with gyp/plaster u dont have a table but use the floor as a table? Why dont u make a table so u have a better work station ?
Hey Scott I noticed you didn't pad the wall where the kitchen wall units will be hung or even for fixing your base units back.... Is that plasterboard strong enough to hold & what sort of anker bracket would you use?? 👍🏻👍🏻
Hi Scott, do you use three-strand electric wiring in New Zealand. You may remember the wiring in the UK had two strand and a bare ground that you put a green & yellow strand over when it was uncovered. That is the same in the USA except they do not do anything to the bare wire, just hope the other two do not touch it. I could not get a close look at the wire as you moved too quickly but it looked as if there were three strands to it.
Hey man! Ive been watching u for a while and i'm thinking of starting to work independant to. ive recently bought the makitta DLX6078TJ1 set. could u do a video about the basic stuff needed to start?
Hey Scott from the uk ! What blades do you use and do you also recommend decent expensive blades over average blades at a reasonable cost price for a general hobbyist with a full workshop ? Thanks your channel is one of the best by far 👌
It’s actually a very well written and comprehensive book ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxhgbP-6hUnXu_QRaoHgLztgsI0YF3HqR0 . I wanted to pair this with an updated book on local codes to start planning a post-retirement dream shop. I think I have just about everything I need between the two. The extra plans available for purchase towards the end are priced almost as much as full home plans, not little sheds however.
Makes my day everytime i see a new SBC Video
Love the show.... I’m a professional plaster board install and finisher in the states...”drywaller” one tip on hanging your plaster board on a cabinet wall. Your longest sheets of plaster board, rip it in half.... start with that on the floor... then stack the sheets... by doing that, you’ll have no visible seams. They will be hidden behind the cabinets. And your counter tops will not be hindered by any plaster mud :-)
I’m buying a shirt
Just because you did drywall on your renovated powder room one weekend with the boys does not mean you're a professional. jk that's a good tip, thank you.
@@joshbauer2223 true. Unfortunately for me... drywall ages you in Dog Years.... soooo when you do the math, I’m 175 years old.
Good tip, but its also a sealing component for bugs. Every wonder how infestations come from kitchens? thats why, because the seam is hidden behind the kitchen counters to "save time" - especially if you have no insulation and a brick cavity around the timber wall frame ( Australian homes)
@@novosib9017 I always finish the flat seams behind the cabinets ... mainly because as drywaller, you don’t know where the cabinets begin or end, or if there a stove etc... anywhere that back wall would be seen. Plus they pay you to do everything. Even it would save you a bunch of time, not finishing it would be dishonest...I prefer my customers to tell their friends good things about me and my work... like most big learning curves in life...I learned that one, hard way!
I bet the bugs that get in through the kitchen, it would be through a penetration in wall... like a drain pipe. And the hole in the plaster board that was made for the pipe was cut too big, And then it wasn’t sealed up before the fixtures were set.
You're one of the easiest people to watch, that sounds funny but there are so many channels where that's not the case, good work bro...always learn something of every vid...
Pair of sweet SMOKO TIME mugs ..... delivered all the way to most easterly town in England in less than a week ..... highly recommended ...... Great channel ;)
This is one of my new favorite channels!! Keep it coming
Coming from the states I love watching this and seeing how the world builds, and adapts. Its odd to see some stuff cause I have a similar climate in sunny and very moist Florida but I love this channel its making me more excited for my GC exam every time I watch. Keep making smiles Scott
Its cold and wet in North America today. Love your channel for the carpentry tips and tricks, and for the relaxing music and urban NZ scenery. Don't do carpentry but find it relaxing watching you doing it.
Been watching you for a while now scott im a kiwi guy have just caught up with ur vids and really could have used this advice 2 months ago restoring a 1910 villa but had to do the unthinkable.....pay to get a bloke in to straighten the walls! thanks mate all the best,Rock
money well spent, thank you for supporting local contractors
Hey Scott. I'm 41 and just started a building apprenticeship. Really excited. Love the channel mate, keep up the good work! From Taranaki
Thanks Scott, I'm doing a Reno and came across the same issue with studs out of line, your video is very helpful....
Very cool about the structural gypsum board. Had no idea. I will sleep better at night now! Thanks Scott Brown and Co.
Ive been a builder in Canada for almost 10 years now, you wouldn't believe what we got to do to make our houses last. Were talking 2 foot concrete foundations, r30 insulation in the walls and r50 in the attic, 2x6 exterior walls and the rafters got a new code now with way more horizontal bracing, all because it snows and its cold here
You should watch a video of these guys doing a roof, it will blow your mind what they can get away with.
i have the 40v saw as well and can confirm it is now my go to carry around site with me all day tool, for the amount of power it has it is re lightweight, the depth adjustment is accurate quick and easy and the rafter hook is more useful than it looks. its a ballsy saw! 10/10 for me
Your literally my inspiration I want to be a carpenter just like you
Blue Plasterboard in Scotland indicates " Soundblock " .... Pink - Fireline, .... Green - Moisture, .... Grey/White - General Purpose, .... White G-Tec - for partitions, linings and ceilings where normal, fire, structural and acoustic levels are specified. Keep pumping out the vids Scott. Great content. :)
In NZ you can use rigid air barrier/sheathing as bracing. Either fibre cement, plywood, OSB etc. I work in a drafting firm and commonly on new houses we use rigid air barriers in a lot of situations regardless of the wind zone requirement. It also speeds up getting the building closed in.
I design homes with Pryda wall truss brace's and sometimes (not very often) I design timber homes with a car shock absorber attached to the end of a diagonal brace (to absorb some of the earthquake energy).
Not going to argue code in a different country but it is definitely different than how we achieve the same effect in Canada. Mind you wildly different climates and raw resources lead to solving similar problems in different ways.
Your structural drywall is serving the same sheer strength we usually achieve with osb (oriented strand board) exterior sheathing. Although I remember a brief period where we used fire rated drywall instead of osb on exterior walls which was a nightmare to try and stand walls stick framing and gave me no confidence in the sheer strength then or now. Now we use fire rated osb on walls within a minimum distance to a neighboring building and add fire rated fiberglass drywall if it encroaches even further into the minimum lot setbacks (usually just on the fireplace stack unless the engineer/architect gets fancy).
Your interior drywall and anchors reminds me more of commercial builds like hotels with interior engineered sheer walls that have to be sheeted with specific staple/nail patterns to provide rigidity to the structure. But still those use osb or plywood here. The closest to interior structural drywall I usually see is double layered 5/8s fire rated on partition walls on adjoining units in a duplex, or condo complex.
My past anecdotal experience relying on plaster board for sheer strength makes me leery when I see it used as a structural component but like I said different climates and resource pipelines make for different approaches.
I enjoy your channel specifically because my own small contracting company works on virtually identical scale and scope projects as you do. Also you approach things from a different enough perspective that I've picked up a lot of useful tidbits watching your project videos.
Holy shit. The laser trick. I don’t believe it. That’s absolutely genius. I’m doing this at the moment with a crooked wall I’m trying to stud, and I was just going to use small packing blocks. This is so much more elegant
Hey Scott suggestion -you should get a Werner extend a stage. Also in the states code shows that you can fill exterior walls with 1” rigid foam😂😂 always love showing people how I would break into their half million dollar home with a swift kick. Great video I would prolly say you have #1 carpentry show
We use ply bracing sheets in Australia with a similar nail pattern, still use the M12 bolts at the base but we dont require the brackets.. we can nail off plaster board to achieve bracing resistance here but its just not commonly done..
This is why I’d always go with a carpenter/spark etc that works for themselves. You get quality like this, vs dogs dinner from the big contractors.
I know what you’re saying but with new builds the big boys just subcontract to the little guys all while putting the squeeze on them..
brilliant work, thanks for the video. "bracing" = "framing" in 'merca
Seeing you and the boys multitool the plaster board perfectly for the electrical boxes is inspiring. I'm an electrician and I usually mark the floors, take measurements in my diary of where every power point and switch is. I'm lucky if the plasterers make a small hole for my cable to poke out of the wall and the wall isn't so offset that it needs to be patched
@@cmmartti not for me mate. In Australia we don't use boxes unless it's specified for fire suppression or required for the specific job. We use brackets that just nail to the frame.
Even if we did use the boxes though the plasterers would still just sheet straight over a 10mm lip and not give a fuck. Unfortunately the good plasterers aren't around that much because there's always someone heaps cheaper than them
Hello from Ukraine! Nice channel and content. Way to go, guys !
Hey Scott Brown, just wanted to say I love your content!
I found your channel in December, and I just finished finished watch your entire back catalogue of videos. I'm not a builder or a tradie at all, I just like watching this kind of stuff. I find it like watching grand designs but without the crappy host that they have.
Keep up the good work
love your content, seen every single video from the early beginning. Keep it coming Scott!
kind regards from Belgium!
Ok i just want to say what you do is amazing. I lived in a constent home improuvement house where the contractor was my father. Lets just say he should stick to electrician and leave finishing to professionals. Seeing this good work tickles the part in my brain that controls joy
Love your attention to detail mate.
Neat and fussy as usual and even more NZ inspections. We can build an entire new house with only three inspections and it shows. New one for me Bracing Gyproc. So a paper covered layer of gypsum that turns to mush when damp is classed as bracing even if it is a special sheet I don't get it. I'm sure some boffin somewhere did the calculations and deemed it fit. Would I use it on my own house. I think not.
Not USA Australia. Just poor quality control
The blue sheets are moisture board in the uk wonder if they are the same material/ mix
Impressed by Attention to detail fella
Good crew Scott -
Good news, looks like things are lining up for me. If things go as planned I will be an Apprentice around March. Maybe a bit sooner. The guy I spoke to is expecting work to become available around that time. Will be getting that endorsement I need for the union. I am excited to join the club! Watching your videos and that of other carpenters is inspirational. The only difference is I will working with metal frames. At least for now. Eventually I hope to learn more... Keep up making these awesome videos. -Cheers
A great start to 2021.. SBC😎
Cheers for the entertainment and knowlege value, Scott. Have put a few of your vids into practice..
Appreciate it when you go into the finer details 🤙🏼 wicked content man
Like that clamp to the bench idea!..
Always a joy to watch you and crew work.
Still don’t have the XGT 40v Makita tools in states yet. Believe we get them in March, maybe but sooner, from those “little birdies” that tell ya things😉
You guys are so great 2gether..... “we don’t fail inspections......we adjust”. That’s a great way of looking at it. Love it👍🏻
Glad your back in the groove Scott, would love to see more of the team, that could give us longer episodes 😉🙌🏻
Best channel around
We do things a lot different.
If the plaster board/drywall is used to brace the exterior walls, then what keeps the walls braced until you get to that stage??
You don't always need it a super lot framing out an add on depending on how your addition ties into the old existing house. You can reasonably count on the existing building to be laterally rigid.
@@thomasmoorhead42 I wasn't talking about a small addition. I was talking in general.
A brand new 2 story house.
Educate me
@@levelseven9841 There's no one general way to do things. You have to use techniques suited to the situation on hand. If you want specific techniques you would need to give me some details of the type of construction your doing and paypal me a consultation fee.
Use timber braces, usually 4by2 nailed on frame, that you remove it's time to put the definitive bracing on.
@@thomasmoorhead42 I'm sure your time would be worth it
Can we get a tool belt setup from Richard please
Here is the US, modern sheathing systems like ZIP are not only bracing, but also for sealing.
Sealing is a sore point here in New Zealand. From the late 1980s to the mid 2000s builders put up houses that leaked and rotted. Flashing was replaced with silicon beading. The reason Scott is doing so much on old houses is because buyers are reluctant to build new homes. We know the old ones didn't leak and rot so we pay a premium for houses built before 1986. Modern sheathing systems will be ignored here for another 20 years and then authorities will suddenly 'discover' them as a new innovation.
@@tellthemborissentyou What were they doing to mess up almost 20 years of houses? I mean drying in a house is not a new concept; caulk assists but does not replace flashing.
Not only sealing with zip systems, insulating too
@@tellthemborissentyou plaster for bracing? comon New Zealand. First its pine in the ground now this! :D...iam aware its the engineering standard, but surely its time to raise the standard? (great Quality work as Usual btw)
I've seen some newer builds here in NZ using an exterior sheathing with integrated weather barrier, but it isn't common here, yet. There is a growing passive house movement in NZ but apart from that much of the industry doesn't seem to be focused on airtightness.
In California, plywood or OSB sheathing is required on external wall to meet earthquake structural requirement.
That's what I was wondering, how much effect does the seismic stuff have on what's code or not? And has that (and recent bad quake) influenced how much inspection you get? Cheers
NZ building code requires bracing for wind and earthquake. Some new construction uses external sheathing now, but GIB/drywall can be used as part of a bracing strategy (provided it's affixed as Scott showed).
Would love to see a video on insulation in this house. Not sure if you got the required footage when you could. What the r-value is, stud depth etc etc.
Great work Scott and team. Could you do a run down on your ladders. They seem very light and can you go up either side?
Finally!! Someone with a work bench that doesn't look brand new every time you see it!!
My god. That house is an egg box. Bracing plasterboard!!! Love the channel. Wonder if I’ve ever been on site with uncle Sandy?
Plasterboard as a structural element would be laughed at in US seismic areas. Need structural plywood with hellacious amounts of nails and hardware, with all sorts of internal sheer walls and structural connectors. A few added crappy/brittle drywall screws at the corners of plasterboard are effectively a joke.
Sadly, New Zealand will learn the hard way that they need to significantly increase their building code seismic requirements. Christchurch was a bit of a wake-up call, but if plasterboard is accepted practice, they've got a long road ahead. California has seen multiple code revisions as they learn more with every major quake. As a builder, I finally think they've got seismic requirements where they need to be. We did a lot of freeway seismic upgrades - many older structures had seen multiple upgrades that failed. Some of the bridge foundations from the 50s/60s/early 70s that we retrofitted were shockingly underdesigned - I sometimes feared working under them while we did upgrades. Now-a-days, new designs are robust and finally look 'skookum', but it took 50 years and multiple earthquake failures/hundreds of billions in damages to boost design standards high enough.
@Quake proof a house Taylor Devices Viscous Dampers Yes, installed all sorts of dampers/bearings. But not on residential...
Nice one Scott, it’s a pity that we don’t have ANY inspection in residential housing here in Western Australia, maybe then we wouldn’t get the crap that the project builder dish out. Well done NZ. 👍
Scott, do you have any plans to have hoodies merchandise?
In Australia any wet area eg, laundry, kitchen, bathroom would be lined with Villaboard.
We use 10mm villa board in new Zealand as well, some use aquiline gib, similar to braceline, just green.
But most builders use villa board as well
Drywall as sheer - that's nuts, haha! Although there are plenty of old houses around where I am in the states that are being held up by paint and habit.
Coming from the US I thought it was pretty bizarre as well! But it seems to work here. The NZ code accounts for wind and earthquake load in their bracing requirements.
@@pauljames3306
Put some ''wall truss braces'' in NZ homes for extra bracing, Gib Board is the MINIMUM requirment under the NZ building code.
It's because people in NZ build homes to the MINIMUM standard, houses should be built stronger than the minimum standard.
@@Viagra_risk_PERMANENT_insomnia An average Auckland house already cost over $1m, no-one will pay more for house than needed. Hence minimum standard.
@@dijo7086
What you said is simply not true, I design houses, most of my clients want a house designed stronger than the minimum standard, they don't wan't a house with long term problems.
There are many things that can be done to lower the cost of building a new home, for example.. the blocking of floor joists do not need to be the same size in certain places, the deepth of the blocking can be smaller.
Blocking, dwangs etc, could possibly be made from No2 grade timber...there are many many ways to cut costs.
Builders put studs at close centers on 2.4 height non load bearing walls.. which is over kill.
I could go on and on...
“We don’t fail bro, We adjust.” MAKE THAT A SHIRT SCOTT, ASAP!
do it now!
@Super Supreme Mega Leader HERESY!!!! 😂
How neat is that insulation! 😍
With all of the inspections required for New Zealand home construction, I hope getting an inspector to site is done relatively quickly when they are called.
Jobs for the boys.
Great work very informative. 👍
We used sheathing as both moisture control, and bracing. I'm wondering about the intensity of storms there in NZ, here in SE Louisiana the bracing method you use would fail during the hurricane season. (and in general sheathing is 4" nails center to center (non offset heads) (nail guns so good))
We don’t have hurricanes
Our hurricanes are called tropical cyclones because Southern Hemisphere. Usually by the time they get to NZ they have degraded ... but there are the occasional exceptions. So I don’t think they’re as bad or as frequent as Louisiana (edit a word)
@@longuevalnz thanks for the info
It looks like NZ standards account for wind speeds up to 55 m/s or ~123 mph, so less than any major hurricane. For wind speeds above that amount, an engineer would have to get involved. Typically, the bracing requirements in the NZ standards are for wind and earthquake based on risk/zone
@@cmmartti
charles
when you said you were using plasterboard as bracing at the start of the video i thought wtf, but thanks for the explanation, here in Aus we only really use ply of strap bracing
Hi Scott you could of run that side wall all in braceline and screwed off the elements where required- less joins for the stopper to do.
G,day Scott Brown Carpenter from Sydney, Australia.
* the laser level can replace the string line, Ok.
* Gypsum (blue sheet) bracing, and depending on wind category: not a substitute for external bracing alternatives? Will still need to meet AS 1684.
Have fun🌏🇭🇲
Inner walls, I rarely see any sort of cross-bracing that I seem to see overseas on walls. I do see it on outer walls, but rarely inner walls. Generally just an aluminium frame, one at the bottom, one at the top and straight beams with a gap between 450 distance, centre to centre. So... I guess in my country, they brace walls less and focus more on the support weight to the roof on certain points and care null about what happens in-between.
SCOTT BROWN HEEAH.
love the content as always bru
"why you surprised Scott" that made me chuckle
Get yourself a drywall gun the impact actually creates pulverize gypsum around the screw. with the movement of the building will make screws pop after they get taped because the screw is holding back more brittle drywall. So the purpose of a drywall gun is that it doesn't have any impact and it lets you adjust the dimple perfectly which is why it has that cone shape. also get a drywall T to sheets
One day all builders will get rid of their dangerous circular saws.
Interesting how you brace the walls in New Zealand. In Aus it’s just 6mm ply then gyprock. But your method seems more efficient.
Plywood is stronger than plasterboard, NZ homes are poorly braced. I design homes with Pryda wall truss brace's and sometimes (not very often) I design timber homes with a car shock absorber attached to the end of a diagonal brace (to absorb some of the earthquake energy).
Shock absorbers or viscous dampers are a lot better than wall truss bracing or plywood bracing, but more expensive.
Love your videos Scott! Keep up the good work 💪
I think we need a new van fitout and a new tool set up tour 🤗, love your videos bro greets from the Netherlands
All good stuff as usual Scott.👍👍
Hi, for all those non K1W1 residents, when The Man said we are having a holiday this week he was referring to Auckland Anniversary Day which is a paid public holiday. Here in Godzone we are entitled by law to at least 4 weeks' paid annual leave a year if we work regular hours in a full-time or part-time job. This does not include the additional entitlement to paid 11 days public holidays pay and 5 days sick leave. So there is your forty odd days you can go fishing or hunting, good one Aye? Harera...
Thank the Unions for that one :)
@@1978sjt Hi Simon, yes you are spot on, we were one of the first to get a 40 hour week thanks to a chippy in 1840 called Samuel Parnell. I still remember working a 48 hour week in the fifties when I worked on a conveyer in a factory in Uk when we worked a half day on Saturday! Crazy hours and worse on a night shift. Mind you I do remember that here in NZ we had a law that protected women from working in factories after 6pm. Harera...
I’m writing that phrase on my notebook maybe a future tattoo. lol 👍 to you
does plaster board and brittle drywall screws really make much of a difference in bracing?
i can just imagine if there is any movement that the plasterboard around the screws would crumble away or the screws would shear... maybe we have different drywall screws in england
@@flyingjackcarpentry9394 i presume it’s different, he mentioned the blue plasterboard was specifically different to the white plasterboard used on the non structural walls so i guess it’s designed to withstand more strain
@@oscarhelliwell9685 Yea, I did type my first comment before he got to that part. But it's still weird for me. In England timber framed buildings are rare. It's all brick and blockwork. And that will still move and crack with wind and ground subsidence. So relying on plasterboards and drywall screws to shore a building up seems dicey to me. And surely at a point, the more screws you put it the weaker it gets?
@@flyingjackcarpentry9394 yeah, I guess the timber just has abit more flex so instead of cracking it just warps. And I’m no expert but I guess you’d need a lot of screws for that to be the case 😂
Coming from the US this idea baffled me as well! But it seems to work; NZ code regarding bracing is specifically for wind and earthquake loads based on the risk of whatever zone the house is in.
Yep your videos and Richard's from Finish Carpentry TV in Texas are impressive. Both high quality work. Top blokes too by the looks of it.
Love it Scott!!!!
Hey Scott can u please do a review on the Bosch laser 🤞🤞🤞🤞
Will you frame and board all of the projects I tile? Pls.
Why dont we have this kind of plaster bracing in Melb? I s'pose Aus and NZ using same standard?
Another great episode!
Hi Scott, just a bit confused about the insulation. I remember a previous video where you said something about NZ houses not being insulated for the most part..or did I get that completely wrong? Cheers, Mandy
Up until recently they did not have to be insulated, so when renovating an old house, it's a chance to retrospectively insulate. Sadly it's expensive and many home owners don't do, so people continue living in cold damp houses :(
@@dressjess Hey Jessica, thanks for the reply :-)
That`s a definitely nice tutorial. However, how to set up your laser level with high accuracy in parallel to the wall, please? Any imperfectness with this can be reflected on studs alignment. Do you recommend to use a plastic edge trim stapled to studs instead? Also, some studs problem can be even more complex that just one side bow. It can be waived or even turned around its axle... Can you specify how much studs deviation might be acceptable for further villaboard sheeting and 600*600mm porcelain tiling after? Thank you
Would buying 100mm rough gauge not of been a better option ? Apposed to planer gauged.
Nice work!
Scott, what is the blue straight edge and what is the brand? It reminds me of a level without the vials.
The brand is "Ox", got a couple of them myself. They are quite lightweight and not too pricey.
Use them to check lines are true, can use them to screed concrete too, or as a guide for your saw. Yes it's basically a level without bubble
@@haraldbernage1126 I wonder if they're available in the United States where I am
Not sure, mine says made in China. oxtools.com
Glorious job site
When u check daily if a new episode is out even tho notifications are turned on. Then still miss it by 10 hrs 🤣
Yes 40v xgt video please! None in the states yet:(
Im curious, do plasterers and sparks fight like children over there like they do in the uk over the cable tails and socket boxes?
yup they can be hit or miss here i’m a electrician and have been dealing with them for the past couple of days
Here in Australia, any trade after the Concreter and Carpenter is a over grown child.
@@cmmartti cause then they will lay the gib over the flush box and not cut it out
@@cmmartti cable tails are there for them to see it
So the interior plasterboard is your country's version of exterior sheathing (called boxing in the states) I did not see you using any construction adhesive on the studs prior to screwing the plasterboard. Gluing would add substantial strength to that 'element'. Wouldn't you agree?
6:25 they at least are in some spots not sure about every where
Counter batten wall with 2x1 level left and right side then pull a string top and bottom wood be much faster and 100% flat
I've always wondered, and can't find a straight forward answer on Google, where does plasterboard get started? I've seen it started at the bottom and the top of the wall and in the middle or the left/right of the wall too. Which is best? Cheers
How fascinating. Is the plaster brace system the most common method in NZ? Sign me up. I'm sick of dealing with brace ply in Aus.
Is the sheathing plaster board expensive? Just wondering why you wouldn’t do the whole wall?
It's roughly twice the price
Hey Scot i have noticed that every time u work with gyp/plaster u dont have a table but use the floor as a table? Why dont u make a table so u have a better work station ?
All those salads Rich is Eating is coming out the other end like a California Cow. LMAO
Hey Scott
I noticed you didn't pad the wall where the kitchen wall units will be hung or even for fixing your base units back.... Is that plasterboard strong enough to hold & what sort of anker bracket would you use??
👍🏻👍🏻
the units would be screwed into the framing timber
Hi Scott, do you use three-strand electric wiring in New Zealand. You may remember the wiring in the UK had two strand and a bare ground that you put a green & yellow strand over when it was uncovered. That is the same in the USA except they do not do anything to the bare wire, just hope the other two do not touch it. I could not get a close look at the wire as you moved too quickly but it looked as if there were three strands to it.
NZ wiring is 3 wire tps
Hey man!
Ive been watching u for a while and i'm thinking of starting to work independant to.
ive recently bought the makitta DLX6078TJ1 set. could u do a video about the basic stuff needed to start?
What saw blades do you use? i see you use the same in the 6 1/2 cordless saw. Grear video scott
Hey Scott from the uk ! What blades do you use and do you also recommend decent expensive blades over average blades at a reasonable cost price for a general hobbyist with a full workshop ?
Thanks your channel is one of the best by far 👌