Thanks for the informative video and all the torque specs & part numbers in one place. One thing I want to mention is that it's best to use a block of wood to brace the pitman arm when tightening it to the box shaft, so that the 100ish ft/lbs torque load isn't transferred to the steering box internals. This way the arm/wood/frame takes the load and your brand new or rebuilt box doesn't get its internals damaged.
Just want to take a sec to say thank you for all you do. I bought a ‘66 mustang coupe in October and your show has been a life-saver. I still have a lot to do. I’ll get over to your Patreon and drop a donation soon. Putting in Borgensen Pwr st conversion next week. Woot woot.
Hey Jeff! Great info. Not in the need to do this, but it is nice to know and I have a better understanding now and it is less intimidating. Thanks for sharing. Love, light and blessings from Motown/Dearborn.
Another great video Jeff & team! FYI Jeff I replaced the steering box in my ‘65 Falcon last winter with the 289 in it. You need to pull the driver’s side header (or exhaust manifold) plus remove the DS frame and motor mount, unbolt the PS motor mount then jack up the motor until it touched the firewall. But if you do that (and have the front end up as well) you can swing in the steering box. I didn’t have the under engine brace in place - that would definitely need to come out too ;)
Thanks Jeff for this video. I appreciate the information given about the correct idler arm nuts to use. I will be checking mine to see if I have the correct kind. I should tell you that I was able to remove and install my stock manual steering gear box (yes with the long integrated shaft) into my 1966 mustang with the engine in the car. The process involves the removal of the driver side exhause manifold, two spark plugs closest to the fire wall, and removal of the valve cover and cross brace. Also, you need to remove the driver side seat. The box is removed by rotating the box as you pull the shaft out of the firewall. It goes back in the opposite of how you take it out. I imagine the same process would work for the Falcon. Looking forward to more videos. Ace
Thank you for the little blurb about the drag link being Falcon specific. I installed a 65 Mustang part from NPD and could not see a difference but the steering wheel would not line up correctly. Its about 180 degrees off. I just ordered the correct part from AK. My 65 is getting there.
The thing to remember with the rollerized idler arm is to add enough caster to aid in self centering the steering. The stock type idler helps in this to the detriment of steering effort.
Agreed on that one. And the trick is to add enough to make it easier to return but not so much that you make it hard to steer because of all the caster.
You can really easily remove the steering box from inside the car ('64 Falcon hardtop V8). You just need to remove the column/firewall plate & gasket. I've done it several times, just need to push the bench seat back.
Replaced mine back in high school on my 1966 Mustang GT. Had to jack it way up though. But engine was in the car when I replaced it. 289 Hi Po heads 4 spd car. Pretty quick.
@@AutoRestoMod I thought the falcon derived cars were all the same chasis underneath except for length? Like falcon ranchero or wagon and Mercury Cougar. Learn something new every day I guess.
Good video. I’ve removed and installed the steering box in my 64 Ranchero with the engine in. The shop manual also says it can be done. It was about 17 years ago, so I don’t remember the details.
😂 you are killing me? I am 62, 6ft 2 and 175 and until I broke my shoulder and arm 1 could knock out an Oak tree. Oh my Galaxie, yeah I am not done yet! I quit driving it just amplifies the roaring voices in my head…🫣
The shaft that you have installed is solid and in the event you hit a solid object you can be skewered. The 68 and up cars had a collapsible column. NPD may have a collapsible shaft conversion, just a thought. I have a rag joint and the column shears on my 65 full size. I got it from a 68. It went right on. I don’t know if you can put a 68 column in a 65 but it’s worth a look. If anyone is wondering about it call NPD if you wish to convert it.
@@robertclymer6948 Thank you! I hope that these things are available. I have 4 wheel drum brakes, but my next safety modification is to install a split dual chamber master cylinder, in 1967 the NHTSA mandated a dual chamber master cylinder. Drum brake cars use a master cylinder with both chambers the same size with a matching brake booster for power brakes. My engine only makes 13 hg of idle vacuum. I will likely put manual brakes on, so I will contact NPD for a quality master cylinder rod and I will have to see if my pedal is drilled for both. My brakes are all new. I just need to split the lines. NPD will have pre bent ones. I also may put a 16:1 manual steering box with the right pitman arm. My Galaxie has integral power steering and if I can get a 16:1 Saginaw box from a GM car, NPD offers the Pittman arm. I want a bigger alt too. I need to put a skid plate in back since I have a 20 gallon fuel cell in the trunk with the sump that goes through the floor and an electric pump in the rear frame attached. I am using Earls braided fuel line, deadheaded right now but soon will get a return line. Safety First ladies and gentlemen!
Awesome video, I am in this process now. My Falcon is a 64 V8 car with the pre 65 front drag link and tie rods. Having a hell of a time locating the older style tie rod ends. Question since I already have the V8 front spindles do you know if they make some type of reducer for the tie rod bolts to the spindles. The newer 65 tie rods have a smaller shank than what the spindle is. Would hate to buy new spindles if they sell something to reduce the connecting whole size. Thinking about going to the 65 system just because I can not locate the original tie rods. Thanks for any help you can offer.
If you have the original V8 spindle and V8 steering, all you will need to do is to get the V8 outer tie rod end. Auto Krafters carry the pre '65 stuff. I would check the back of the spindle for a part number, you may also have a 1970 and later spindle on that car. 1970 saw Ford go to a larger swedge bolt on the tie rod. If the car has the original spindle the part number on the back will be a C4DE or a C3DE number I believe.
Cut the steering column off & install a foldable steering uni joint which modern cars have and is a safety upgrade anyway and then the steering box will go in without removing very much.
That is a great safety solution for the solid shaft. I got one off of a Dodge Tradesman Van. A U-joint with a cross pin and a rag joint. I put it together from salvage yard stuff. I put it on a 65 Falcon gasser clone.
That is an option, but but it requires you to go and put a bearing in the bottom of the column as well. You'll also have to have a mount on the firewall.
I’ve got an early ‘64 V8 Falcon. I already bought the ‘65 inner tie rods and I’ll get the Auto Krafters C5DZ-3304A drag link. But will my stock pitman arm, idler arm, and spindles work?
Hopefully soon lol. The problem is we don't just have one car that we're working on we have several. It's also like everything else a matter of money.. When the money for that car runs out we move on to a different vehicle.
I'd head to Fordification.com for the full breakdown. They have a comprehensive article on what is required here: fordification.com/tech/powersteering.htm
Thanks for the informative video and all the torque specs & part numbers in one place. One thing I want to mention is that it's best to use a block of wood to brace the pitman arm when tightening it to the box shaft, so that the 100ish ft/lbs torque load isn't transferred to the steering box internals. This way the arm/wood/frame takes the load and your brand new or rebuilt box doesn't get its internals damaged.
Just want to take a sec to say thank you for all you do. I bought a ‘66 mustang coupe in October and your show has been a life-saver. I still have a lot to do. I’ll get over to your Patreon and drop a donation soon. Putting in Borgensen Pwr st conversion next week. Woot woot.
Great job showing the installation. Thanks for the video.
You're welcome.
Enjoy your content. Keep old cars old the road
Thanks for the kind words. We'll do our best!
Hey Jeff! Great info. Not in the need to do this, but it is nice to know and I have a better understanding now and it is less intimidating. Thanks for sharing. Love, light and blessings from Motown/Dearborn.
You're very welcome
Another great video Jeff & team! FYI Jeff I replaced the steering box in my ‘65 Falcon last winter with the 289 in it. You need to pull the driver’s side header (or exhaust manifold) plus remove the DS frame and motor mount, unbolt the PS motor mount then jack up the motor until it touched the firewall. But if you do that (and have the front end up as well) you can swing in the steering box. I didn’t have the under engine brace in place - that would definitely need to come out too ;)
At that point shouldn't you just go ahead and pull the engine out for a rebuild lol. Great tips Rob!
Thanks Jeff for this video. I appreciate the information given about the correct idler arm nuts to use. I will be checking mine to see if I have the correct kind. I should tell you that I was able to remove and install my stock manual steering gear box (yes with the long integrated shaft) into my 1966 mustang with the engine in the car. The process involves the removal of the driver side exhause manifold, two spark plugs closest to the fire wall, and removal of the valve cover and cross brace. Also, you need to remove the driver side seat.
The box is removed by rotating the box as you pull the shaft out of the firewall. It goes back in the opposite of how you take it out. I imagine the same process would work for the Falcon. Looking forward to more videos. Ace
Thanks for that info! I have never tried it.
Thank you for the little blurb about the drag link being Falcon specific. I installed a 65 Mustang part from NPD and could not see a difference but the steering wheel would not line up correctly. Its about 180 degrees off. I just ordered the correct part from AK. My 65 is getting there.
I'm glad we were able to help. I'm sorry it was just a little too late LOL
I bought the idler arm from OpenTracker for my 68 Fairlane. Excited to see how it works.
The thing to remember with the rollerized idler arm is to add enough caster to aid in self centering the steering. The stock type idler helps in this to the detriment of steering effort.
@@kennethstaszak9990, thanks for the tip. Now, if I can just remember it. 😁
Agreed on that one. And the trick is to add enough to make it easier to return but not so much that you make it hard to steer because of all the caster.
I would say write it down but when I do that I lose the piece of paper that I wrote it down on lol.
@@AutoRestoMod 😆. Same here. I've taken to using the Sticky Notes on my 'puter.
Great stuff Jeff 🏁
Thanks Paul.
You can really easily remove the steering box from inside the car ('64 Falcon hardtop V8). You just need to remove the column/firewall plate & gasket. I've done it several times, just need to push the bench seat back.
Thanks for the tip
No good plan survives contact with reality.
Is so many truths in that
Replaced mine back in high school on my 1966 Mustang GT. Had to jack it way up though. But engine was in the car when I replaced it. 289 Hi Po heads 4 spd car. Pretty quick.
The job is doable on a Mustang, it's a little harder on the Falcon because I believe the engine bay is narrower.
@@AutoRestoMod I thought the falcon derived cars were all the same chasis underneath except for length? Like falcon ranchero or wagon and Mercury Cougar. Learn something new every day I guess.
@@chrisrye9128 It's why the center link is Falcon specific but the other components aren't. I believe the Falcon is two inches narrower difference.
Good video. I’ve removed and installed the steering box in my 64 Ranchero with the engine in. The shop manual also says it can be done. It was about 17 years ago, so I don’t remember the details.
I did mine with the engine in took off the header for room but wasn’t too bad .
Sometimes, things work out like that. I've had that go both ways where it works really well. And then it doesn't, LOL
New channel idea, dad bods and restomods, no???
😂 you are killing me? I am 62, 6ft 2 and 175 and until I broke my shoulder and arm 1 could knock out an Oak tree. Oh my Galaxie, yeah I am not done yet! I quit driving it just amplifies the roaring voices in my head…🫣
Oh and the fact of being legally blind… They took my license away!😝
The shaft that you have installed is solid and in the event you hit a solid object you can be skewered. The 68 and up cars had a collapsible column. NPD may have a collapsible shaft conversion, just a thought. I have a rag joint and the column shears on my 65 full size. I got it from a 68. It went right on. I don’t know if you can put a 68 column in a 65 but it’s worth a look. If anyone is wondering about it call NPD if you wish to convert it.
@@Bbbbad724 excellent catch and Idea Bill. I had forgotten all about that.
@@robertclymer6948 Thank you! I hope that these things are available. I have 4 wheel drum brakes, but my next safety modification is to install a split dual chamber master cylinder, in 1967 the NHTSA mandated a dual chamber master cylinder. Drum brake cars use a master cylinder with both chambers the same size with a matching brake booster for power brakes. My engine only makes 13 hg of idle vacuum. I will likely put manual brakes on, so I will contact NPD for a quality master cylinder rod and I will have to see if my pedal is drilled for both. My brakes are all new. I just need to split the lines. NPD will have pre bent ones. I also may put a 16:1 manual steering box with the right pitman arm. My Galaxie has integral power steering and if I can get a 16:1 Saginaw box from a GM car, NPD offers the Pittman arm. I want a bigger alt too. I need to put a skid plate in back since I have a 20 gallon fuel cell in the trunk with the sump that goes through the floor and an electric pump in the rear frame attached. I am using Earls braided fuel line, deadheaded right now but soon will get a return line. Safety First ladies and gentlemen!
It's was wonderful thanks!
Awesome video, I am in this process now. My Falcon is a 64 V8 car with the pre 65 front drag link and tie rods. Having a hell of a time locating the older style tie rod ends. Question since I already have the V8 front spindles do you know if they make some type of reducer for the tie rod bolts to the spindles. The newer 65 tie rods have a smaller shank than what the spindle is. Would hate to buy new spindles if they sell something to reduce the connecting whole size. Thinking about going to the 65 system just because I can not locate the original tie rods.
Thanks for any help you can offer.
If you have the original V8 spindle and V8 steering, all you will need to do is to get the V8 outer tie rod end. Auto Krafters carry the pre '65 stuff. I would check the back of the spindle for a part number, you may also have a 1970 and later spindle on that car. 1970 saw Ford go to a larger swedge bolt on the tie rod.
If the car has the original spindle the part number on the back will be a C4DE or a C3DE number I believe.
Cut the steering column off & install a foldable steering uni joint which modern cars have and is a safety upgrade anyway and then the steering box will go in without removing very much.
That is a great safety solution for the solid shaft. I got one off of a Dodge Tradesman Van. A U-joint with a cross pin and a rag joint. I put it together from salvage yard stuff. I put it on a 65 Falcon gasser clone.
That is an option, but but it requires you to go and put a bearing in the bottom of the column as well. You'll also have to have a mount on the firewall.
Just a question; why not paint the engine compartment first before suspension assembly?
Normally we would but we're trying to get this thing where it's mobile so we can move it around with the shop.
I’ve got an early ‘64 V8 Falcon. I already bought the ‘65 inner tie rods and I’ll get the Auto Krafters C5DZ-3304A drag link. But will my stock pitman arm, idler arm, and spindles work?
no, spindles have to go, bump steer is out of control. trailing arm is .75 to short, you will need 65 mustang spindles.
Not true you can get in it and out through the bottom. 1965 ford falcon 302 Remove header and lift engine it will come right out and go right back in.
When will the Ranchero be done? Seems like it’s been taking awhile
Hopefully soon lol. The problem is we don't just have one car that we're working on we have several. It's also like everything else a matter of money.. When the money for that car runs out we move on to a different vehicle.
I am putting in a powersteering in a 69 f 100 what all do I need? Do I need to get everything from 1 donor?
I'd head to Fordification.com for the full breakdown. They have a comprehensive article on what is required here: fordification.com/tech/powersteering.htm
He actually shuts up around 8:19 and well...