Hey Greg. I'm doing a similar build for a 6 tank, 20g long set up with 2 x 4s, using your video as a reference. I really like your build, and if it's ok with you, when creating my video, mention your channel as a reference. Let me know! Very nice video!
This is the same way I built a stand to hold two 75g and two 40 breeders. They were bare bottom breeding tanks with combination drain / overflow pipes. Something i wish i had thought about doing with the bare bottom is to paint a 1 inch grid under the bottom when I painted them. It would have made sizing the plecos a lot easier as they grew. Thanks for sharing and welcome back!
All my fish room stands are dado cut construction. Faster to build. Stronger. Uses the least amount of materials. There is nothing to not like about them. Great demonstration video.
When I used to build reptile cages, I always said make the top floor the height of your armpit...so you can reach in it and clean it easily. I like the idea of having 2 tanks high because when you go with 3, it seems like there is one tank level that you love and 2 you hate; one is too high nd the other is too low. I'd rather have 2 I loved than 2 I hate. Got that from Cory and Aq. Coop. So I would make the height of the upper tank so that it just reached your armpit of shoulder so you can reach in it easily. Also, if you have teh equipment, run those 2x4's and 6's through a jointer/planer so all boards are perfect. It really helps and makes a great look. But those racks are awesome. Great job, great channel!
This is a great way to make a stand, well done!!!! Now you can make bunk-beds and bring them to the N.E.C. next year so we can save money and jam a bunch of people in one hotel room. 😁🛌
Nice job, Greg Jones on your stands and great to see someone with knowledge of the dowel system. I have been watching some video's of stands lately, and a lot of DIY guys, have been using the other method of believing the screws will be holding most of this weight. Which is not what you want to do. I also like the idea of using styrofoam I have been using this on many of my tanks I have also used 2 inch styrofoam as it is also a good source of keeping the tank level and keeping the temperature warm as well. So you are getting 2 uses out of using the styrofoam. Insulation and keeping your tanks level as well. I am also thinking of building a stand very similar to this build. I enjoyed watching your video and thanks for showing us your build. Just came into this video by watching other You Tuber's build there stands and so far this was the right build for me. Now I will have to make my measurements and see how I would tackle my upcoming project. Do you polyurethane or paint any of your stands or you just leave your tanks with the woodgrain finish that it already consist of.
As a professional carpenter I applaud your work! 👏 Your spreader bars though did you use framing screws? Framing screws are like 16 penny nails there shear strength is higher than conventional screws usually around 1000 pounds shear strength per nail or screw. That's one reason why houses are built with nails not screws. The engineering principals you used were sound great job chipping out those mortise and tenon joints!
@Greg Jones it will work for the loads your giving it. But check out the framing screws Simpson (the joist hanger manufacturer) makes some and I think another by a decking brand. Again nice work I appreciate your diy thoroughness and your creative solutions. I'm glad you are producing videos again Greg your insights on husbandry are great to hear.
Great video and you have convinced me to try it this way . My only question is what to you think about connecting the uprights at the very bottom ? would this help prevent any type of sway left to right as you are facing them . Thanks
Just bought the wood today to build a similar tank stand but taller I want top shelf just plants then 2 tanks and on floor a container full of water for autofill
There will be micro-stress on every screw over time since you left air in the seams instead of sealing the seams with woodglue. But the stress will be micro (expansion, condensation, bumps(overtime)). Great build! I wonder what size dowel could be used to replace every screw for a Metal-Free Dado-Dowel version. 1" round dowel is my guess.
The center brace of the bottom plastic trim? It doesn't hold weight or even touch the bottom, it just prevents bowing of glass outwards in the front and back. The weight is carried by the 4 corners and the entire bottom trim which is supported by 2x4s everywhere it touches
@@gregjonesonline I’m sure that the silicone will prevent any boving out at the bottom. The plastic trim only prevents the edges of the glas from getting chipped. The top trimming is a different story.
One thought, if you’re going to go through the trouble of using a dado. Use glue with your fastener. Glue is much stronger than screws. Foam board is the wrong choice. If you’re going to use something use yoga mat. Wood is only as level as you make it. You’re buying wood off the shelf and screwing together. When use wood, I plane it and join it. It is always perfectly square.
Would made a how to video. But did not include dimensions for all the cuts. Would have been nice to be able to remake the stand ourselves with your plans you have. Stand is beautiful for 60 gallon tanks by the way.
I understand the principal of why you placed foam under the tanks, but I don't believe it should be under the bottom piece of glass. If it was only used underneath the walls, where all of the weight is distributed, then maybe something could be used to compensate for the wood unevenness.
ive cut strips of foam vs rectangles of foam, what i found was the added time to cut the strips and attach them together wasn't worth it, so rectangles it is
tanksalways levels flat and Styrofoam allows the tank to settle level !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!, liker water in a glass... stand can be off but the always levels and the foam allows it to do so
Let me know down below if you've ever tried dado cut stands!
Hey Greg. I'm doing a similar build for a 6 tank, 20g long set up with 2 x 4s, using your video as a reference. I really like your build, and if it's ok with you, when creating my video, mention your channel as a reference. Let me know! Very nice video!
@@PriceTagAquariums of course, good luck, measure twice!
@@gregjonesonline ok great thank you so much! Always measure twice! I'll let ya know when it's done
Nice and solid! And great explanation! Thanks!
This is the same way I built a stand to hold two 75g and two 40 breeders. They were bare bottom breeding tanks with combination drain / overflow pipes.
Something i wish i had thought about doing with the bare bottom is to paint a 1 inch grid under the bottom when I painted them.
It would have made sizing the plecos a lot easier as they grew.
Thanks for sharing and welcome back!
Thanks, I've thought about doing a grid on my dip and pour, but I don't measure fish that often, would be a fun project one day
All my fish room stands are dado cut construction. Faster to build. Stronger. Uses the least amount of materials. There is nothing to not like about them. Great demonstration video.
I built mine like this. Great to see you at the SCTFS Auction!
Haven't done it yet but this was a timely video, I need to build two stands and was planning to do some dado cuts.
Love that style of stand I am going to build one like that.
When I used to build reptile cages, I always said make the top floor the height of your armpit...so you can reach in it and clean it easily. I like the idea of having 2 tanks high because when you go with 3, it seems like there is one tank level that you love and 2 you hate; one is too high nd the other is too low. I'd rather have 2 I loved than 2 I hate. Got that from Cory and Aq. Coop. So I would make the height of the upper tank so that it just reached your armpit of shoulder so you can reach in it easily. Also, if you have teh equipment, run those 2x4's and 6's through a jointer/planer so all boards are perfect. It really helps and makes a great look. But those racks are awesome. Great job, great channel!
Never tried a dado cut but definitely a good way to do this . Excellent work Greg
This is a great way to make a stand, well done!!!! Now you can make bunk-beds and bring them to the N.E.C. next year so we can save money and jam a bunch of people in one hotel room. 😁🛌
Nice job, Greg Jones on your stands and great to see someone with knowledge of the dowel system. I have been watching some video's of stands lately, and a lot of DIY guys, have been using the other method of believing the screws will be holding most of this weight. Which is not what you want to do. I also like the idea of using styrofoam I have been using this on many of my tanks I have also used 2 inch styrofoam as it is also a good source of keeping the tank level and keeping the temperature warm as well. So you are getting 2 uses out of using the styrofoam. Insulation and keeping your tanks level as well. I am also thinking of building a stand very similar to this build. I enjoyed watching your video and thanks for showing us your build. Just came into this video by watching other You Tuber's build there stands and so far this was the right build for me.
Now I will have to make my measurements and see how I would tackle my upcoming project. Do you polyurethane or paint any of your stands or you just leave your tanks with the woodgrain finish that it already consist of.
As a professional carpenter I applaud your work! 👏 Your spreader bars though did you use framing screws? Framing screws are like 16 penny nails there shear strength is higher than conventional screws usually around 1000 pounds shear strength per nail or screw. That's one reason why houses are built with nails not screws. The engineering principals you used were sound great job chipping out those mortise and tenon joints!
i used the star head decking screws, 2.5 inch length for 1 inch of embedment
@Greg Jones it will work for the loads your giving it. But check out the framing screws Simpson (the joist hanger manufacturer) makes some and I think another by a decking brand. Again nice work I appreciate your diy thoroughness and your creative solutions. I'm glad you are producing videos again Greg your insights on husbandry are great to hear.
Love this different build!
excellent guide
Excellent. What kind of fish are you breeding? I-used to breed African cichlids. Got so many I didn’t know what to do with them
Goodeids mostly, trying to pick as many conservation species as possible
@@gregjonesonline would love to breed freshwater SA angelfish. Like the ones on your emblem
All the stands in my fish room are made this way. I had a guy show me this way to build them years ago and it's how I've built any stands I've built
Great video on this 👍👍👍
Great video and you have convinced me to try it this way . My only question is what to you think about connecting the uprights at the very bottom ? would this help prevent any type of sway left to right as you are facing them . Thanks
connecting the bottom legs together would not really do anything, with 2x6 legs it is very stable
@@gregjonesonline Ok thanks and will you be doing a video on how you set the sump up for the breeder 60 tanks ?
@@jeffbarnes2014 yeah I just did all the plumbing and sump recently, will do some videos soon
Just bought the wood today to build a similar tank stand but taller I want top shelf just plants then 2 tanks and on floor a container full of water for autofill
There will be micro-stress on every screw over time since you left air in the seams instead of sealing the seams with woodglue. But the stress will be micro (expansion, condensation, bumps(overtime)). Great build! I wonder what size dowel could be used to replace every screw for a Metal-Free Dado-Dowel version. 1" round dowel is my guess.
A screwless stand would be fun to try one day, almost every dado is so tight a had to bang the boards in place so it should be fine
Why no support for center brace? You depending on the styrofoam? or you don't feel there is weight in the middle?
The center brace of the bottom plastic trim? It doesn't hold weight or even touch the bottom, it just prevents bowing of glass outwards in the front and back. The weight is carried by the 4 corners and the entire bottom trim which is supported by 2x4s everywhere it touches
@@gregjonesonline I’m sure that the silicone will prevent any boving out at the bottom. The plastic trim only prevents the edges of the glas from getting chipped. The top trimming is a different story.
Think I could get away with this using 2x4 for 1 60g breeder?
Good info
nice
One thought, if you’re going to go through the trouble of using a dado. Use glue with your fastener. Glue is much stronger than screws.
Foam board is the wrong choice. If you’re going to use something use yoga mat. Wood is only as level as you make it. You’re buying wood off the shelf and screwing together. When use wood, I plane it and join it. It is always perfectly square.
Hey my friend has your 60 gallon aqueon breeder tank leaked ? Alot of reviews say they leak ?
I have 50 of them. No problems here.
Would made a how to video. But did not include dimensions for all the cuts. Would have been nice to be able to remake the stand ourselves with your plans you have. Stand is beautiful for 60 gallon tanks by the way.
I understand the principal of why you placed foam under the tanks, but I don't believe it should be under the bottom piece of glass. If it was only used underneath the walls, where all of the weight is distributed, then maybe something could be used to compensate for the wood unevenness.
ive cut strips of foam vs rectangles of foam, what i found was the added time to cut the strips and attach them together wasn't worth it, so rectangles it is
tanksalways levels flat and Styrofoam allows the tank to settle level !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!, liker water in a glass... stand can be off but the always levels and the foam allows it to do so