Thank you for the information about Adobe Illustrator FYI Kenlowe fans use a similar water thermostat for their fans and they use a silicon rubber sleeve to seal the top hose against the radiator stub where the thermostat tube exits the hose fitting... Kenlowe Sealing Band - Continuous Moulded Silicone - KLM2213
Fantastic job of adapting the supplied thermostat with a sensible alternative. Very creative wiring as well. By episode 38 it should be looking almost ready to drive again and I expect John is looking forward to testing it as soon as the weather gets a bit warmer & dryer.
Hi Elin, really well explained as always. I must admit I didnt like the sound of the as supplied thermostat probe too and thought at once that you wouldnt use it. Reading the comments though I see that other manufactururers have successfully designed a suitable seal. Just for info Adobe do have a versión of acrobat which allows modification of source drawings, not images, but your trick of using a white out window is what I would do too. Have a great week!!
Nice installation. Out of the dozens of videos that I have watched you do I think this is the first time that I have seen you do something that was a bit sketchy. Guess what it was. No harm done though.
I just searched The Limousine Centre (assuming that is where you worked) and it appears to be closed? Nothing posted on Facebook since 2020 and the website is down. I assume you did upholstery by the way you handled that TR factory hard top and the fancy corner cutting you did. I could see you were well versed in making things fit properly. I have a 1930 Barber chair if you need extra work!!! Lol 😆 Oh wait, my TR6 first! 👍
That looks like the Kenlowe 'Thermo-matic' temperature switch, that copper probe is supposed to be inserted into the radiator at the top radiator hose, with a small piece of soft rubber between the radiator top pipe and the capillary tube. It's not a particularly elegant solution, but it does work. I have recently removed mine and used a radiator header tank temperature switch.
The fan and switch are excellent additions. Might I also suggest another hidden switch that cuts the battery off. This is great when the car is storage AND acts as a theft deterrent.
I installed a few ground cut-offs on some cars, but I am personally not a fan. Mainly because cutting off the power makes your radio forget it's settings. If there is a slow leak somewhere I'd rather find it and deal with the problem instead with the consequences. It is sure a good idea for a long term storage though, but again, that happens once a year, so not such a big deal to disconnect the battery.
Elin, do you have a link to the temperature probe you installed in the radiator? Also, what on/off temperature combination do you prefer when the electric fan is a supplement to the mechanical fan? Thank you!
The thermostat you have should have come with a rubber saddle. Which has a groove for the capillary. When used they seal well. Front mounting a fan will cause the rad to be shrouded and the engine will run hot. Which will cause the fan to run almost constantly. You'd be better off removing the water pump fan and fit it on the back..
That makes sense to me too Gary (as of course the point of a radiator fan is only to replace the natural cooling air flow motion of the car if the car becomes stationary) -so by deleting the old belt driven fan a useful amount of pointlessly wasted horse power is also saved….
Elin, another instructive video; well done! My question to you is about the schematic creation/edits. How do you get a schematic copy that you are then able to make changes to? Is that possible with just 'Adobe Reader' or do you use some other software to accomplish this?
I use Adobe Illustrator. I blank the area to be changed with a white rectangle and then draw on top. Kind of adding layers on top of the original schematic from AAW.
Elin I didn’t understand why you changed the polarity/direction of the fan, but also swapped the fan round as well? (Surely step one defeated step two?)🤔
Reversing the polarity reverses the direction of rotation of the motor. Reversing the blade does NOT reverse the direction of rotation, only the shape of the blade. So I reversed the polarity to convert the fan to a pusher instead of a puller, but that would have made the blades spin backwards (the curved edge needs to lead) and would have lost some of the airflow. Therefore I reversed the blade (but not the motor)
In Canada I imagine you can get away with using a pusher fan and leaving the stock fan in place. In hotter climates like here in California, where we see our share of 100F+ days in summer/converible driving weather, on these old cars it is usually better to install an electric puller fan, remove the mechanical fan (might need a.harmonic dampener in its place), leaving the front of the radiator unobstructed and wide open to as much air as possible.
@@alanm.4298 Lucky you Alan! (Here in the U.K. it rarely gets more than a few degrees above freezing, - and that’s just in the Summer ha ha!) stay well buddy..
@@alanm.4298Yes I don’t really see the need to add these fans with the mechanical fan still in place, cars always managed fine with the factory setup for decades in normal climates. If you run hot in traffic turn on the heater blower !
I use Adobe Illustrator. I blank the area to be changed with a white rectangle and then draw on top. Kind of adding layers on top of the original schematic from AAW.
I don’t like putting fans on the front of radiators because the body of the fan etc blocks part of the airflow through the radiator, which rather defeats the purpose.
Thank you for the information about Adobe Illustrator FYI Kenlowe fans use a similar water thermostat for their fans and they use a silicon rubber sleeve to seal the top hose against the radiator stub where the thermostat tube exits the hose fitting... Kenlowe Sealing Band - Continuous Moulded Silicone - KLM2213
Fantastic job of adapting the supplied thermostat with a sensible alternative. Very creative wiring as well. By episode 38 it should be looking almost ready to drive again and I expect John is looking forward to testing it as soon as the weather gets a bit warmer & dryer.
Great install of the fan and especially the wiring, that is beautiful.
She’s looking great Elin !!
Good work Elin.
Really tidy installation, nice work!
Hi Elin, really well explained as always. I must admit I didnt like the sound of the as supplied thermostat probe too and thought at once that you wouldnt use it. Reading the comments though I see that other manufactururers have successfully designed a suitable seal.
Just for info Adobe do have a versión of acrobat which allows modification of source drawings, not images, but your trick of using a white out window is what I would do too.
Have a great week!!
Very nice job and great discussion of the various parameters and problems of installing the fan, thermostat and switch. Thanks, Elin!
Nice installation. Out of the dozens of videos that I have watched you do I think this is the first time that I have seen you do something that was a bit sketchy. Guess what it was. No harm done though.
I just searched The Limousine Centre (assuming that is where you worked) and it appears to be closed? Nothing posted on Facebook since 2020 and the website is down. I assume you did upholstery by the way you handled that TR factory hard top and the fancy corner cutting you did. I could see you were well versed in making things fit properly. I have a 1930 Barber chair if you need extra work!!! Lol 😆
Oh wait, my TR6 first! 👍
That looks like the Kenlowe 'Thermo-matic' temperature switch, that copper probe is supposed to be inserted into the radiator at the top radiator hose, with a small piece of soft rubber between the radiator top pipe and the capillary tube. It's not a particularly elegant solution, but it does work. I have recently removed mine and used a radiator header tank temperature switch.
The fan and switch are excellent additions.
Might I also suggest another hidden switch that cuts the battery off. This is great when the car is storage AND acts as a theft deterrent.
I installed a few ground cut-offs on some cars, but I am personally not a fan. Mainly because cutting off the power makes your radio forget it's settings. If there is a slow leak somewhere I'd rather find it and deal with the problem instead with the consequences. It is sure a good idea for a long term storage though, but again, that happens once a year, so not such a big deal to disconnect the battery.
Great little video as always.minor hiccups,but that’s expected.just keep doing your thing.😎😎😎👍👍👍
Coffee, Elan and Scott Joplin 🎉
Elin, do you have a link to the temperature probe you installed in the radiator? Also, what on/off temperature combination do you prefer when the electric fan is a supplement to the mechanical fan? Thank you!
The thermostat you have should have come with a rubber saddle. Which has a groove for the capillary. When used they seal well. Front mounting a fan will cause the rad to be shrouded and the engine will run hot. Which will cause the fan to run almost constantly. You'd be better off removing the water pump fan and fit it on the back..
That makes sense to me too Gary (as of course the point of a radiator fan is only to replace the natural cooling air flow motion of the car if the car becomes stationary) -so by deleting the old belt driven fan a useful amount of pointlessly wasted horse power is also saved….
I installed fans on multiple cars this way. TR6s, TR4s and my own Spitfire. Never had issues overheating.
Am I first? Nice installation as always.
It’s the schoolboy in you Dave..
Elin, another instructive video; well done! My question to you is about the schematic creation/edits. How do you get a schematic copy that you are then able to make changes to? Is that possible with just 'Adobe Reader' or do you use some other software to accomplish this?
I use Adobe Illustrator. I blank the area to be changed with a white rectangle and then draw on top. Kind of adding layers on top of the original schematic from AAW.
Thanks Elin; good to know.@@RustyBeauties
Elin I didn’t understand why you changed the polarity/direction of the fan, but also swapped the fan round as well? (Surely step one defeated step two?)🤔
Reversing the polarity reverses the direction of rotation of the motor. Reversing the blade does NOT reverse the direction of rotation, only the shape of the blade. So I reversed the polarity to convert the fan to a pusher instead of a puller, but that would have made the blades spin backwards (the curved edge needs to lead) and would have lost some of the airflow. Therefore I reversed the blade (but not the motor)
@@RustyBeauties yes now I understand. (If the blades were just square cut I guess they could have been left untouched).
In Canada I imagine you can get away with using a pusher fan and leaving the stock fan in place. In hotter climates like here in California, where we see our share of 100F+ days in summer/converible driving weather, on these old cars it is usually better to install an electric puller fan, remove the mechanical fan (might need a.harmonic dampener in its place), leaving the front of the radiator unobstructed and wide open to as much air as possible.
@@alanm.4298 Lucky you Alan! (Here in the U.K. it rarely gets more than a few degrees above freezing, - and that’s just in the Summer ha ha!) stay well buddy..
@@alanm.4298Yes I don’t really see the need to add these fans with the mechanical fan still in place, cars always managed fine with the factory setup for decades in normal climates. If you run hot in traffic turn on the heater blower !
What software did you use to make the modifications to the wiring diagram ? It looks good.
I use Adobe Illustrator. I blank the area to be changed with a white rectangle and then draw on top. Kind of adding layers on top of the original schematic from AAW.
Is the mechanical fan still functional
Yes but quite superfluous now…
Yes, the electric fan is just a back up. It is a car for cruising and we are not looking for performance
I don’t like putting fans on the front of radiators because the body of the fan etc blocks part of the airflow through the radiator, which rather defeats the purpose.
Nearly all modern factory fans are fitted at the front and have to blow through an aircon condenser as well as the radiator.