Hi Elin, Great demonstration of how to take out dents, the custom dolly was a great idea. Its very hard to know when to stop when trying to get a good appearance. Close up and In isolation the defects are obvious but once you finish then off with the black paint and are fitted they will become far less obvious. Great video, well done!!
Very skilled tin bashing Elin .. I think the Rostyle hub caps were stainless steel hence their low magnetism. I'm sure we all look forward to seeing these rare hubcaps fully restored.
Wow Elin, You're friend the "Purest" here, they're coming out great! It's cool to see them coming back to life. I'll really have to come up with an unobtrusive way to secure them to the car so they won't fall off in turns. Thank you so much, I really appreciate this so much!
Once the black centers are painted the imperfections in the outer rims will become less noticeable to the eye. Great work as always...looking forward to Part 2.
Nice to see these rare parts saved and revived for a special car and a fanatical owner ! This style of wheeltrim was used on many sporting Triumphs between 1968 and 1973... GT6 Mk2, Vitesse Mk2, TR5, early TR6, Early Stag and the 2500 Petrol Injection Saloons and Estates (Mk1 and Mk2).
I had a set of the Rostyle caps on my1969. The problem that caused many guys to take them off or replace with other wheels is that they would vibrate so loud that they became very annoying. The vibration was caused by the loosening of the bolt’s riveted to the mounting plate. Your fix to secure with bolts to the lug nuts will likely fix the vibration problem
I need to smooth off my hammer and dolly set! Hammer on dolly vrs hammer off dolly would be used on a few of these dents. I need to get the front bumper off my Spitfire since it has a couple dent's and see what I can do with them. Great video Elin!!
Quite likely... they repaired well enough with a bit of "tickling", so not an aluminium alloy I'm pretty sure. They are not very light, they seem quite like stainless steel "beauty" trim rings in that respect. I think you can only stamp thin steel into a shape like that....
Great work Elin. I have some Rostyle hub caps from my GT6. They aren’t too bad but they rattled on the rims and I went with minilite wheels. I am most interested in how you reattached the fake nuts.
It certainly looks like these wheel covers are polished stainless. Thus the slight magnetism. If stainless the cracks can be TIG welded by a skilled welder.
I would suggest using steel cement (in a tube) on the back of the cover for fixing the crack, after it is tapped into place. I had a new 1974 Mazda 616. The RX2 of the same year came out with Rostyle rims and I had a set fitted to my 616.
Elin if you looks the center of the center caps, is exactly at the Wheels of TR 4. Is a better looks installing the emblems to TR 250 and TR6 . I do to mine.
Maybe brazing the cracks with some low melt stainless hard solder is an opion without deforming (should be invisible since rechroming had a few layers of material put on ...)
It’s seems that are made from type 430 stainless steel so should be able to be welded. Lower grade stainless steel is a little more magnetic than food grade material. Repolishing once you are done is probably all that will be needed.Good luck and keep up the good work.
If they are of stainless steel as I think they are you don't chrome them, instead you do something called electropolishing to make them more shiny, Unfortunately that method makes scrathes even more visible so you have to manually polish them extremelly well first.
I pretty sure you'll find they are made of stainless steel. And are polished not chromed. 🤔 And being stainless it will work harden when you work it like copper. Which can cause brittle cracks. But you can anneal it like copper brass and aluminium. It can be TIG welded👍
They were also used, for 13" wheels on the Mk.2 Triumph Vitesse from 1969-71 and GT6 cars of the same period, and yes they were stainless steel. I think it's ironic that the hubcaps have 5 fake nuts but the wheels themselves only have 4
Looking good. Stainless is tedious to work with. You want your tool faces polished as the surface finish will transfer to the metal you're working. Also, not sure how much a tool like this would be of benefit for these hubcaps, but here is a trim straightening tool another metalworker showed me. It's advantage is you set the depth of the tool to the thickness of the metal, so you don't run the risk of stretching or over stretching the metal. ua-cam.com/video/kAzCqbmd8vY/v-deo.htmlsi=564M3zO1Idp-zT3N
They’re dented because they fly off when you hit a bump in the road! Ask me how I know. I did the same restoration for my 69. Then two of them flew off the first time I drove it!
Elin, what a bang up job! Looking good.
That's a remarkable improvement in those wheels. Bravo. But please remember to feed Rusty next time!
Nice skills Elin, a fast disappearing art form I fear, Thanks, as always, for sharing
Hi Elin,
Great demonstration of how to take out dents, the custom dolly was a great idea.
Its very hard to know when to stop when trying to get a good appearance. Close up and In isolation the defects are obvious but once you finish then off with the black paint and are fitted they will become far less obvious.
Great video, well done!!
Very skilled tin bashing Elin .. I think the Rostyle hub caps were stainless steel hence their low magnetism. I'm sure we all look forward to seeing these rare hubcaps fully restored.
Wow Elin, You're friend the "Purest" here, they're coming out great! It's cool to see them coming back to life. I'll really have to come up with an unobtrusive way to secure them to the car so they won't fall off in turns. Thank you so much, I really appreciate this so much!
Love these wheel trims/hub caps. I had them on my 1970 Vitesse
I want a a Vitesse
Once the black centers are painted the imperfections in the outer rims will become less noticeable to the eye. Great work as always...looking forward to Part 2.
Damned nice job working on hubcaps. You put so much effort to repair things, but the final product is always worth it.
Hi Elin, Eastwood have a "kit" which includes hammer & anvil and you can make dollies from a bolster and chisel. Works great
Nice to see these rare parts saved and revived for a special car and a fanatical owner !
This style of wheeltrim was used on many sporting Triumphs between 1968 and 1973... GT6 Mk2, Vitesse Mk2, TR5, early TR6, Early Stag and the 2500 Petrol Injection Saloons and Estates (Mk1 and Mk2).
Very patient work. I can see the lineups forming with folks with bashed up hubcaps!
LOL, no thanks, I don't think I will do that ever again unless it is for my own car. :)
I had a set of the Rostyle caps on my1969. The problem that caused many guys to take them off or replace with other wheels is that they would vibrate so loud that they became very annoying. The vibration was caused by the loosening of the bolt’s riveted to the mounting plate. Your fix to secure with bolts to the lug nuts will likely fix the vibration problem
ROstyle - manufactured by the company Rubery Owen.
I need to smooth off my hammer and dolly set! Hammer on dolly vrs hammer off dolly would be used on a few of these dents. I need to get the front bumper off my Spitfire since it has a couple dent's and see what I can do with them. Great video Elin!!
Great work that is probably very rewarding in that you accomplish so much, using ingenuity and imagination.
This was helpful..... gave me some ideas for getting rid of similar dents from my Beetle frunk lid. 👍
Yep, they/re stainless and they can be chromed but not easily. I think polishing is the real answer.
Yeah, I think that is what Don is gonna do. It is gonna be a lot of work though, but this way the scratches can be sanded away and then polished.
Maybe the hub caps are stainless steel?
Quite likely... they repaired well enough with a bit of "tickling", so not an aluminium alloy I'm pretty sure. They are not very light, they seem quite like stainless steel "beauty" trim rings in that respect.
I think you can only stamp thin steel into a shape like that....
And if not magnetic, then maybe an austenitic stainless steel.
Great work Elin. I have some Rostyle hub caps from my GT6. They aren’t too bad but they rattled on the rims and I went with minilite wheels. I am most interested in how you reattached the fake nuts.
It certainly looks like these wheel covers are polished stainless. Thus the slight magnetism. If stainless the cracks can be TIG welded by a skilled welder.
Very nice,serious detail to make them look good.great video as always just continue doing what you do best 👍👍👍😎😎👍
First 😉 so much time, effort, skill and patience put into this project. I’m looking forward to the next video and the end result.
I would suggest using steel cement (in a tube) on the back of the cover for fixing the crack, after it is tapped into place. I had a new 1974 Mazda 616. The RX2 of the same year came out with Rostyle rims and I had a set fitted to my 616.
Amazing Elin
There’s a foam ring that goes around the rim on the back. This stops them rattling (at least, it does until they fly off! ;)
Elin if you looks the center of the center caps, is exactly at the Wheels of TR 4. Is a better looks installing the emblems to TR 250 and TR6 . I do to mine.
Maybe brazing the cracks with some low melt stainless hard solder is an opion without deforming (should be invisible since rechroming had a few layers of material put on ...)
It’s seems that are made from type 430 stainless steel so should be able to be welded. Lower grade stainless steel is a little more magnetic than food grade material. Repolishing once you are done is probably all that will be needed.Good luck and keep up the good work.
Tap Tap Tap !
Zoom zoom 😊
Can you not use metal spatula for the scratches?
If they are of stainless steel as I think they are you don't chrome them, instead you do something called electropolishing to make them more shiny, Unfortunately that method makes scrathes even more visible so you have to manually polish them extremelly well first.
I pretty sure you'll find they are made of stainless steel. And are polished not chromed. 🤔 And being stainless it will work harden when you work it like copper. Which can cause brittle cracks. But you can anneal it like copper brass and aluminium. It can be TIG welded👍
They were also used, for 13" wheels on the Mk.2 Triumph Vitesse from 1969-71 and GT6 cars of the same period, and yes they were stainless steel. I think it's ironic that the hubcaps have 5 fake nuts but the wheels themselves only have 4
There's a 15" set for $120 on Ebay right now
I have always believed them to be stainless steel. This is supported by the very slight yellow tint relative to chrome plated parts.
the copper base of the chrome will fill in the scratches
I don't think they can be chromed. Just continue what you are doing. I believe they are stainless and can be TIG welded.
Looking good. Stainless is tedious to work with.
You want your tool faces polished as the surface finish will transfer to the metal you're working.
Also, not sure how much a tool like this would be of benefit for these hubcaps, but here is a trim straightening tool another metalworker showed me. It's advantage is you set the depth of the tool to the thickness of the metal, so you don't run the risk of stretching or over stretching the metal.
ua-cam.com/video/kAzCqbmd8vY/v-deo.htmlsi=564M3zO1Idp-zT3N
They’re dented because they fly off when you hit a bump in the road! Ask me how I know. I did the same restoration for my 69. Then two of them flew off the first time I drove it!
Elin, the chrome hubcaps are probably Tin.
No, tin is not magnetic. These are somewhat magnetic, therefore, as others have said, they are stainless steel.
@@robertllr Thanks Robert, I stand corrected I wrongly assumed they were chrome finished ( but now realised they are stainless). Kind regards 🇬🇧