DE KD5SMF: I have an Icom 7000 rig that I did use in my 2006 F-150 but, I did not use a motorized antenna like yours for my set up. When doing installations for mobile radio always use the K.I.S.S. method. You did a good install and nearly perfect routing as anyone could. My set up was directly under the seat and I made a dash mount for the control head that was held to the dash by velcro. This worked but I couldn't figure out how to hide all my cables. You managed to hide the cables well enough- good job! I'm presently installing an Icom 208H in my 2000 F-150 for vhf/uhf repeater op's and keeping the Icom 7000 as my base station. Good video and information, Thanks for posting! 73's de kd5smf.
As a commercial radio installer, i think you did a good job with the install. I do not find anything wrong with your install. The worst thing any antenna installer for a car.truck,van yada can run into, is a double plate in the roof. one sheet of metal directly under another with about 5cm between them! I have run in to that before not fun. :-)
I like your use of braided strap to bond all the body panels and misc together. Exhaust hangers and motor mounts are another area that can be improved upon with ground strap. Almost always some ignition noise will be reduced by gnd of the exhaust!
Thanks so much Mike! Please feel free to share the link with others. I had to do many works around on this installation. The Super Crew short bed with no normal stake hole support structure was interesting. I took advantage of the extra space to use the breedlove mount and place the RF chokes in the available space.
Great ideas here, I have a 2014 F150 FX that I was trying to figure how to mount a radio in. I was going to start on the simple end with my KX2 part time as it has its own power already and just needs a run of RG-174 to the HF antenna.
Very Nice Job on the installation thanks for sharing and explaining the methodology. I really like the power switch with the lighted LED Nice Touch WA5GM Gordon
Nice and clean! Thanks for the video. How did you determine how to create the RF choke? I need to do this on my truck but I am finding lots of info that require lots of reading. Did you just coiled the cable (how many times?) and added the clam shell ferrites beads? Is there a method/calculation to this or just coil and slap some beads? What cable are you using on your antenna to radio? Looks like LMR 400 from the video but I want to make sure :) Finally, your control head on your driver's side, does it get in the way for you? I have my control head (857D) on the passenger side. Just curious how is working out for you on this location. Thanks for the video and replies. 73!
+Robert Fernandez Thanks for the compliment. I hope it helps you and others. For the RF choke, I used Mix 31? (as I recall) split ferrites and did my best with the space available behind the tail light to run as many coax paths through the ferrites as possible. With the limited space, I did the best I could given that constraint. I did do some calculations (which I no longer recall) with the bend radius, space available, and quantity of the recommended ferrites for HF. I am pretty sure there are 6 or so coils. While not optimal, works for my application. It is a lot of reading, but it is easier to find errors on paper first (hi hi). I hope this helps a bit.
Hello Dave, I recently installed two roof nmo antenna and to resolve the rear coax issue , I ran the coax behind the two plastic insert in the ceiling near the rear dome light. worked out well.
Jorge, Thanks, I think you are confirming a thought I had. I am curious, when you pull out the two plastic inserts (I assume you are referring to what I would call the retention buttons, did you have to buy new ones or were they reusable?
i think your power wire it too long for its size and a 100 watts.. do this for a test. with an inline power meter transmit and read power. then (if you can find jumper cables long enough) put a temp parallel line from the battery to radio (leave the intalled line conected too). retest and bet it runs more power.. of course do both test with either it running or not but not one test running and the other not (seems like a no brainer but people do crap like that and they run power wires and coax in and out of doors too).. frank and beans
Justin - Because you requested :) I will post a complimentary video to this one that explains the control head, how, and why I mounted it the way I did. Please be patient - work is NUTS right now.
I did a similar setup in my 2014 a few years ago, and I used a Havis Charge-Guard for the power relay into a rigrunner - It also provides auto-shutoff - Check it out here: www.amazon.com/ChargeGuard-Select-Vehicle-Management-System/dp/B00B62LFNM
This is the standard bonding prosess I learned from an Electrical Engineer. More bonding equals less interference potential and a more effective counterpoise.
TXW5CSM thx for the reply . I didn’t think you would’ve reply so fast. I’m trying to mount an antenna on my 2006 titan and can’t find a hole to run the wires from the bed of the truck. Keep making videos on your setup . Great job on the install
Question about the stake pocket. I have a 2015 f_150. Wonder if it's the same as yours. I was gonna get one of those mounts from breedlove too. What issue did you have with it?
sramsdellwdm, You may need to ask your local Ford dealer about the stake pocket before you start cutting through the plastic cover. I carefully lifted the cover and worked through the clips to see if the stake pocket was there. Candidly, I broke a few clips but did not care, once I confirmed that the stake pocket was there, as the video shows. The Breedlove mount is rock solid even at the 80 MPH West Texas speed limits. Tighten it enough to keep it snug but not too much. I also needed to place a little loc-tite on the bolt inside the antenna as it was occasionally vibrating loose. It is a bit of a squeeze to get the Breedlove mount it in and you may need (as I did) to shim the outer edge a bit to make the antenna stand perfectly vertical but IMHO, well worth the performance and the look. Please send a link to your installation so others can learn. I'm glad that this video may have helped in a small way. If you have any more questions please share them here so others may learn. 73, Dave
Nice clean install. How is working for you these days? I've been working on bonding my vehicle body to the frame and ran across you video. Thanks and best 73 - Rich, K0PIR
Ham Radio K0PIR Hey Rich, No complaints at all. With the filters in the IC-7000 all is as good as when i operated the rig at home. Thanks for the compliment. please check out the follow up. Best luck, good luck and 73 from Central Texas.
RV, thanks for the profound compliment. Really, when it comes down to brass tacks, amateur radio is merely a status and not a method. Thanks again for watching my channel, please pass it on. Knowledge is only power when it is shared!
Questions: 1. WHY did you need to ground strap all of the doors and the hood if you are not mounting an antenna on them? 2. Why did you mount the floor/seat mount on the driver's side?
J Simpson, I've had problems in other installations with resonance in speakers, so I bonded everything I could reach :) The mount location was selected as a personal preference.
Yes, the only grounding cable that I used prefabricated was the one to ground the exhaust pipe to the frame. All others were custom made with braided cable and eyelets. Doing this also ensures that you do not have a resonant length :D
That makes sense. I am new to this but I was wondering why you grounded everything possible? I've seen people not go to the extent of grounding as you did so I was just wondering what you know that maybe others don't. Thanks for any info! oh and great installation. This has helped me a lot.
My last truck (2002 Chevy) always had issues with some resonant stereo cable that drove me nuts. Even with the stereo off, I had an annoying thump and hum issue. I tried ferrites all over the place and never quite got it right. With this design I admittedly went a bit overboard on the bonding but I have absolutely NO issues UHF, VHF, or HF. I wonder if it is possible to OVER BOND a vehicle? Maybe an Electrical Engineer can chime in on that one. Enjoy the process Kenneth as it is part of the fun. I'm pleased that you found this video helpful. 73 from Central Texas!
+revo adan Revo, Yes, I've always done that to help eliminate any engine spark and alternator interference potential (that's what my Elmer taught me). I don't believe that the F-150 has an ELD on it. If it does, this 100 watt max rig has caused no issues. The top amperage draw for the radio is 15 volts and is fused at 30 amps, if your ELD is that sensitive then you could see that issue. Maybe someone else will be able to share their experience on this topic.
+TXW5CSM just installed an FT857D on my HondaPilot15 and its working ok. I havent tried putting 100W on it. BTW why did you Ground the hood are you putting an antenna in it?
+revo adan Basic bonding reduced RFI, better efficiency etc. the following is a copy and paste from K0BG.com. he explains it better than I ever could. visit his site for the full Bonding article. "Bonding horizontal surfaces (trunk lid, hood, etc.) will have a greater effect than bonding vertical ones like doors, and hatches. It is not uncommon to see a 20 to 30 dB drop in received noise levels once they're properly grounded." Thanks again, Dave
+revo adan I agree, I love the radio and don't understand why it was replaced with the IC-7100. The addition of the touchscreen and loss of color display was an interesting decision. I still Love the radio and plan to keep it until the magic smoke is released.
Thank you for your shared knowledge ......I'm sub'd ......trying to figure out best way to install my yaesu 2M/440 radio in a beautiful and functional way. Much love KN4BDX
Thanks, I have no definitive answer but was always told that it is a good idea to put one in/on any antenna. I do not have one on the UHF/VHF feed line as there is a space constraint. I don't know if it is a "need" but if you can, why not. I had the proper mix ferrites and the space to place one on the HF antenna so I did so. I am interested in others thoughts on your comment.
The way I understand it is that a vertical antenna is already unbalanced. You would need a balun on a dipole or similar antenna.I agree I would also be interested in other's opinions.
Thanks so much, Interesting point Jeff, I guess I never really thought of it that way. I am interested in other points of view and you have certainly given me a point to consider. I recall many years ago a similar device called an Un-Un that was designed for unbalanced line into unbalanced antennas. Keep the insights and conversation going. We can all get better together.
Justin and Jorge, an updated video based on your input and requests is now available at: ua-cam.com/video/hZTzJFbX1Eo/v-deo.html You are now famous (well, as famous as this channel)! 73, Dave
Jerome, Switch still working with no issues. I am considering a relay option that was proposed by another viewer. If I make that modification, I will make sure to post another follow up video. 73, W5CSM
Great video. Minor details make a big difference when you’re seeking help from a video. Excellent job. Thank you.
Glad it Helped. 73 from the Heart of Texas.
DE KD5SMF: I have an Icom 7000 rig that I did use in my 2006 F-150 but, I did not use a motorized antenna like yours for my set up. When doing installations for mobile radio always use the K.I.S.S. method. You did a good install and nearly perfect routing as anyone could. My set up was directly under the seat and I made a dash mount for the control head that was held to the dash by velcro. This worked but I couldn't figure out how to hide all my cables. You managed to hide the cables well enough- good job! I'm presently installing an Icom 208H in my 2000 F-150 for vhf/uhf repeater op's and keeping the Icom 7000 as my base station. Good video and information, Thanks for posting! 73's de kd5smf.
I just bought a 2013 F150 and this video is really going to help. Thank you! It looks great.
As a commercial radio installer, i think you did a good job with the install. I do not find anything wrong with your install.
The worst thing any antenna installer for a car.truck,van yada can run into, is a double plate in the roof. one sheet of metal directly under another with about 5cm between them! I have run in to that before not fun. :-)
Very nice install. I just purchased the same model truck, and I've started researching the install. This gave me a lot of ideas and insight.
I like your use of braided strap to bond all the body panels and misc together. Exhaust hangers and motor mounts are another area that can be improved upon with ground strap. Almost always some ignition noise will be reduced by gnd of the exhaust!
Thanks so much Mike! Please feel free to share the link with others. I had to do many works around on this installation. The Super Crew short bed with no normal stake hole support structure was interesting. I took advantage of the extra space to use the breedlove mount and place the RF chokes in the available space.
Great ideas here, I have a 2014 F150 FX that I was trying to figure how to mount a radio in. I was going to start on the simple end with my KX2 part time as it has its own power already and just needs a run of RG-174 to the HF antenna.
Thank you for inspiring. From JZ 13 TJK, operator Endy from RAPI Indonesia
Very Nice Job on the installation
thanks for sharing and explaining the methodology.
I really like the power switch with the lighted LED
Nice Touch
WA5GM
Gordon
Nice and clean! Thanks for the video. How did you determine how to create the RF choke? I need to do this on my truck but I am finding lots of info that require lots of reading. Did you just coiled the cable (how many times?) and added the clam shell ferrites beads? Is there a method/calculation to this or just coil and slap some beads?
What cable are you using on your antenna to radio? Looks like LMR 400 from the video but I want to make sure :)
Finally, your control head on your driver's side, does it get in the way for you? I have my control head (857D) on the passenger side. Just curious how is working out for you on this location.
Thanks for the video and replies.
73!
+Robert Fernandez
Thanks for the compliment. I hope it helps you and others. For the RF choke, I used Mix 31? (as I recall) split ferrites and did my best with the space available behind the tail light to run as many coax paths through the ferrites as possible. With the limited space, I did the best I could given that constraint. I did do some calculations (which I no longer recall) with the bend radius, space available, and quantity of the recommended ferrites for HF. I am pretty sure there are 6 or so coils. While not optimal, works for my application. It is a lot of reading, but it is easier to find errors on paper first (hi hi). I hope this helps a bit.
Sir, a great video, and an excellent job on the install.
Sir, thank you for your hard work.
Hello Dave, I recently installed two roof nmo antenna and to resolve the rear coax issue , I ran the coax behind the two plastic insert in the ceiling near the rear dome light. worked out well.
Jorge, Thanks, I think you are confirming a thought I had. I am curious, when you pull out the two plastic inserts (I assume you are referring to what I would call the retention buttons, did you have to buy new ones or were they reusable?
They are reusable. Dont have to remove dome light. Just tug on the rear ceiling near window and they should pop out.
Super, thanks Jorge! Good Work. Knowledge is only power when it is shared.
i think your power wire it too long for its size and a 100 watts.. do this for a test. with an inline power meter transmit and read power. then (if you can find jumper cables long enough) put a temp parallel line from the battery to radio (leave the intalled line conected too). retest and bet it runs more power.. of course do both test with either it running or not but not one test running and the other not (seems like a no brainer but people do crap like that and they run power wires and coax in and out of doors too).. frank and beans
Justin - Because you requested :) I will post a complimentary video to this one that explains the control head, how, and why I mounted it the way I did. Please be patient - work is NUTS right now.
Thank you for the info.👽👻🏁👍.
great video thanks 73 from kb2uew
Nice install. One question: why did you wire high-current DC through a switch? Seems safer to use a switch + relay.
Great thought. It had not occurred to me to use a relay. Thanks for helping out the next guy AND ME, for my next installation. 73
I did a similar setup in my 2014 a few years ago, and I used a Havis Charge-Guard for the power relay into a rigrunner - It also provides auto-shutoff - Check it out here: www.amazon.com/ChargeGuard-Select-Vehicle-Management-System/dp/B00B62LFNM
thanks for the video as i'm a new installer
Cool video . How did you determine how much grounding you needed?
This is the standard bonding prosess I learned from an Electrical Engineer. More bonding equals less interference potential and a more effective counterpoise.
TXW5CSM thx for the reply . I didn’t think you would’ve reply so fast. I’m trying to mount an antenna on my 2006 titan and can’t find a hole to run the wires from the bed of the truck. Keep making videos on your setup . Great job on the install
Question about the stake pocket. I have a 2015 f_150. Wonder if it's the same as yours. I was gonna get one of those mounts from breedlove too. What issue did you have with it?
sramsdellwdm, You may need to ask your local Ford dealer about the stake pocket before you start cutting through the plastic cover. I carefully lifted the cover and worked through the clips to see if the stake pocket was there. Candidly, I broke a few clips but did not care, once I confirmed that the stake pocket was there, as the video shows.
The Breedlove mount is rock solid even at the 80 MPH West Texas speed limits. Tighten it enough to keep it snug but not too much. I also needed to place a little loc-tite on the bolt inside the antenna as it was occasionally vibrating loose. It is a bit of a squeeze to get the Breedlove mount it in and you may need (as I did) to shim the outer edge a bit to make the antenna stand perfectly vertical but IMHO, well worth the performance and the look. Please send a link to your installation so others can learn.
I'm glad that this video may have helped in a small way. If you have any more questions please share them here so others may learn.
73, Dave
Very good install.
Nice clean install. How is working for you these days? I've been working on bonding my vehicle body to the frame and ran across you video. Thanks and best 73 - Rich, K0PIR
Ham Radio K0PIR
Hey Rich,
No complaints at all. With the filters in the IC-7000 all is as good as when i operated the rig at home. Thanks for the compliment. please check out the follow up. Best luck, good luck and 73 from Central Texas.
Nice vid, that's no amateur installation.
RV, thanks for the profound compliment. Really, when it comes down to brass tacks, amateur radio is merely a status and not a method. Thanks again for watching my channel, please pass it on. Knowledge is only power when it is shared!
Questions: 1. WHY did you need to ground strap all of the doors and the hood if you are not mounting an antenna on them? 2. Why did you mount the floor/seat mount on the driver's side?
J Simpson,
I've had problems in other installations with resonance in speakers, so I bonded everything I could reach :)
The mount location was selected as a personal preference.
Thank you for sharing. Nice installation. 73 de KP4HF.
Can you make a video showing how you mounted your radio head?
Great video! Thanks.
Did you create your own grounding cables? I can't seem to find grounding cables longer than 12"
Yes, the only grounding cable that I used prefabricated was the one to ground the exhaust pipe to the frame. All others were custom made with braided cable and eyelets. Doing this also ensures that you do not have a resonant length :D
That makes sense. I am new to this but I was wondering why you grounded everything possible? I've seen people not go to the extent of grounding as you did so I was just wondering what you know that maybe others don't. Thanks for any info! oh and great installation. This has helped me a lot.
My last truck (2002 Chevy) always had issues with some resonant stereo cable that drove me nuts. Even with the stereo off, I had an annoying thump and hum issue. I tried ferrites all over the place and never quite got it right. With this design I admittedly went a bit overboard on the bonding but I have absolutely NO issues UHF, VHF, or HF. I wonder if it is possible to OVER BOND a vehicle? Maybe an Electrical Engineer can chime in on that one. Enjoy the process Kenneth as it is part of the fun. I'm pleased that you found this video helpful. 73 from Central Texas!
Hello Dave, I would have used black cable ties and an NMO type antenna mount, the rest looks really nice.
73............. W5GIF
I did enjoy your video.
Good info, thanks for sharing... 73, de VA6ATA...
So you directly tap the dc cord to the battery. Am a bit worried about the Electrical Load Detectors (ELD).
+revo adan
Revo,
Yes, I've always done that to help eliminate any engine spark and alternator interference potential (that's what my Elmer taught me). I don't believe that the F-150 has an ELD on it. If it does, this 100 watt max rig has caused no issues. The top amperage draw for the radio is 15 volts and is fused at 30 amps, if your ELD is that sensitive then you could see that issue. Maybe someone else will be able to share their experience on this topic.
+TXW5CSM just installed an FT857D on my HondaPilot15 and its working ok. I havent tried putting 100W on it. BTW why did you Ground the hood are you putting an antenna in it?
+revo adan
Basic bonding reduced RFI, better efficiency etc. the following is a copy and paste from K0BG.com. he explains it better than I ever could. visit his site for the full Bonding article. "Bonding horizontal surfaces (trunk lid, hood, etc.) will have a greater effect than bonding vertical ones like doors, and hatches. It is not uncommon to see a 20 to 30 dB drop in received noise levels once they're properly grounded."
Thanks again,
Dave
+TXW5CSM i like that ic7000 but why is that so quick its gone in the market?
+revo adan
I agree, I love the radio and don't understand why it was replaced with the IC-7100. The addition of the touchscreen and loss of color display was an interesting decision. I still Love the radio and plan to keep it until the magic smoke is released.
Thank you for your shared knowledge ......I'm sub'd ......trying to figure out best way to install my yaesu 2M/440 radio in a beautiful and functional way. Much love KN4BDX
Do you really need a balun/rf chokes on a vertical antenna install?
Thanks, I have no definitive answer but was always told that it is a good idea to put one in/on any antenna. I do not have one on the UHF/VHF feed line as there is a space constraint. I don't know if it is a "need" but if you can, why not. I had the proper mix ferrites and the space to place one on the HF antenna so I did so. I am interested in others thoughts on your comment.
The way I understand it is that a vertical antenna is already unbalanced. You would need a balun on a dipole or similar antenna.I agree I would also be interested in other's opinions.
Thanks so much, Interesting point Jeff, I guess I never really thought of it that way. I am interested in other points of view and you have certainly given me a point to consider. I recall many years ago a similar device called an Un-Un that was designed for unbalanced line into unbalanced antennas. Keep the insights and conversation going. We can all get better together.
I have been wondering if ferrite/chokes would be good for a 2m set up
Thanks for the kudos. I appreciate it. 73 N5UMJ
My Pleasure Jorge, see you on the airwaves. 73 from Texas!
Justin and Jorge, an updated video based on your input and requests is now available at:
ua-cam.com/video/hZTzJFbX1Eo/v-deo.html
You are now famous (well, as famous as this channel)!
73,
Dave
let us know how long that toggle switch lasts kg6mn
Jerome,
Switch still working with no issues. I am considering a relay option that was proposed by another viewer. If I make that modification, I will make sure to post another follow up video.
73,
W5CSM
I received a question from a Gentlemen named John for my call sign. For those interested, my call sign is W5CSM.
73,
Dave