Looks good ! I've never been a fan of running the ground back to the battery myself. I run heavy braid to the chassis and ground to the chassis in the passenger compartment (drill metal in kick panel area and secure with machine screw , nylock, and star washer ). Your antenna grounds to the chassis and your radio grounds to the chassis (same potential). I generally feed a fused (or breaker protected) 8 ga cable to the battery and run that to a high current relay controlled by ignition or a switch and loom said B+ wire. This allows you to neutralize all accessory circuits for long term parking , service, etc. You can use a power filter (Motorola NTN5277) if you desire after the relay under the hood but most of the time unless you are running a big alternator and high amperage draw accessories I've found them to be frivolous . You have a ton of room under your console to install a dedicated fuse panel (ATO marine with a ground buss) and break out multiple power connectors from there (your power pole accessory panel for example). If you plan big (or reasonably so) from the initial outlay adding more goodies is a piece of cake. Thanks for sharing !
+SurvivalComms I thought about an ignition sense type installation but I'm going to keep this one simple with the ID-5100A and the Midland GMRS mobile. Perhaps down the road I may look at adding HF to the truck but that's a real pain with the antenna. hank
Great video! Always interested in seeing others radio installation methods. I'm glad you used a power cable with two fuses (positive and negative) at the battery end... essential if you want to connect directly to the battery negative terminal. I tend not to worry about soldering the Anderson connectors. If they are crimped properly you won't have any problem, if you look carefully you will see that almost every other connector in that vehicle uses crimp pins, and none will be soldered. :-)
Good stuff, Hank! I've been wanting to run power into my 2003 S-10; but I've got this fear of punching my drillbit into the heater core. I'm going to take a look around my firewall for that mystical boot! I'm looking forward to the rest of the series!
Recently bought myself a 2014 Nissan Xterra X and the interior looks identical to this Frontier. Hopefully, this video will help me getting my Scanner and a future HAM Radio installed as well. So far, I've just installed a Cobra 75WXST CB Radio. pretty simple install since the handheld mic has all the controls. Just hid the main box under my dash below the steering wheel.
nice neat installation. the only thing else to add to your install is most vehicles have a fuse block inside that has terminal spaces that you can hook up things like your installing and all you need to do is put a fuse in it and your set.
+Roy Amberg Roy - I do not recommend using the vehicle fuse block for any high power radio equipment. CB radios or other 5 watt or less units maybe, but for 50 watts plus you should go right to the battery. This is very important when you start with 100 watt HF units that can pull in excess of 22 amps.
Since you have done a good quality crimp, is there any space for the solder to flow between the wire and the connector? Thanks for the good clear video.
Can you list the Powerwerx components that you used? And where did you get the grommet you mentioned? I have a 2017 Frontier, and I am getting ready to install a Yaesu FTM100DR. I am looking for as much info as possible in getting it installed in the best manner. I appreciate your channel, and your videos; thanks much.
I got my Powerwerx stuff over the counter at Ham Radio Outlet but you can buy that stuff online at Powerwerx. The grommet was out of an "assorted" kit I purchased off of Amazon.
Do you happen to have the parts list? I got an old azden pcs-6000 that I'm trying to get hooked up to the battery on my 95 Ranger, i believe the same wiring will work? New to all this though..
Hello Hank: I'm hoping to drive to Dayton with a couple of buddies. We are renting a car for the trip and would like to have the use of VHF/UHF for the trip. Do you have any suggestions for a non permanent set up that's easy to remove when doing a rental return? Thanks, 8P6RC
Quality mag-mount antenna base with a Tram 1181 antenna. Fine piece of felt under mag base can also add protection for the paint - provided the mag is strong enough to have the felt.
Radio will have the Bluetooth option so I can use the tablet and maps. I was not planning to seal the power pole but I will now when it's all wrapped up.
Why is the ATC-style 40 amp fuse assembly necessary/recommended if the iCom factory power cable has fuses built in? I appreciate your channel. Thank you
The Icom cable has the fuse closer to the radio (on the inside of the fire wall). With fuses at the battery any sort along the line will be protected because the fuse at the batter cuts the power at the source.
Got it, thanks! Got mine hooked up following your directions and it works perfectly. I wouldn't even know where to start if it wasn't for your channel.
You would be much better off running your ground line to a good frame ground. The later Nissan trucks use a 'smart' charging system that measures current draw @ the ground cable via an ammeter clamp. If your ground is directly to the battery then the system can't measure the aux draw. If you ground to frame, then the system will account for the aux draw.
No. Uni-body construction, painted/treated parts, corrosion, etc can affect the connections. Going directly to the negative post of the battery is the correct method. The negative post of the battery is connected to the vehicle ground.
With Nissan (trucks are BOF, not unibody) they use a clamp-style ammeter sensor that regulates the output of the altenator. That sensor is on the ground wire between the batt terminal and frame directly below the batt. IF this were an old vehicle that did not have the ECM regulating the output of the altenator, you would have an argument. However, with Nissan (and others use the same methodology) you must tie into the frame/body/block. It has been discussed on ClubFrontier (& proven) at great lengths and you can also read about the clamp sensor/meter in the FSM. The FSM's are available online.
f1y7rap I don't care if the amp meter can see what the current consumption is. Commercial LMR industry standards call for direct and fused connections to the battery post.
the issue is if the charging system (controlled by the ECM) sees the load. If it doesn't then the alternator is not commanded to increase output and you can discharge your battery while the truck is running. The standards were written years ago and not revised nearly often enough to reflect current practices/designs of auto mfrs. A much better solution is to install a ground bus that is tied to the frame properly and coated with anti-corrosion. OEM grounding networks are barely sufficient as it is, which is why many people see improvements when they do "big 3" wiring upgrades (bat to alt, bat to frame, frame to engine) If you compound this with multiple aftermarket add-on systems you'll run out of overhead. If you don't want to do it, that's fine, but when you are advising others that may have less knowledge on the subject it behooves you to present the info and let them make(or not) that mistake.
You have a ground problem. If you are going to use the mag mount then you may want to try running a flat ground braid wire from the radio to the frame of the truck. That should help.
+Commsprepper Спрошу по нашему, может кто переведет))) Зачем тянуть минусовой провод от аккумулятора? можно же его запитать на ближайшей точкой на кузове авто.
+Appalachian Foothills Outdoors Not sure you would want that. The truck interior is in pieces right now. Working my way around to find a path from the roof center to the floor that does not involve messing with an airbag. What a pain in the ass. Hank
Great video! This is exactly what I needed for my new Kenwood TM-D710GA installation in my 2018 Jeep JK.
Glad it helped!
Looks good ! I've never been a fan of running the ground back to the battery myself. I run heavy braid to the chassis and ground to the chassis in the passenger compartment (drill metal in kick panel area and secure with machine screw , nylock, and star washer ). Your antenna grounds to the chassis and your radio grounds to the chassis (same potential). I generally feed a fused (or breaker protected) 8 ga cable to the battery and run that to a high current relay controlled by ignition or a switch and loom said B+ wire. This allows you to neutralize all accessory circuits for long term parking , service, etc. You can use a power filter (Motorola NTN5277) if you desire after the relay under the hood but most of the time unless you are running a big alternator and high amperage draw accessories I've found them to be frivolous . You have a ton of room under your console to install a dedicated fuse panel (ATO marine with a ground buss) and break out multiple power connectors from there (your power pole accessory panel for example). If you plan big (or reasonably so) from the initial outlay adding more goodies is a piece of cake. Thanks for sharing !
+SurvivalComms I thought about an ignition sense type installation but I'm going to keep this one simple with the ID-5100A and the Midland GMRS mobile. Perhaps down the road I may look at adding HF to the truck but that's a real pain with the antenna. hank
Great video! Always interested in seeing others radio installation methods.
I'm glad you used a power cable with two fuses (positive and negative) at the battery end... essential if you want to connect directly to the battery negative terminal.
I tend not to worry about soldering the Anderson connectors. If they are crimped properly you won't have any problem, if you look carefully you will see that almost every other connector in that vehicle uses crimp pins, and none will be soldered. :-)
Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment - respectfully CommsPrepper
Thanks for the "2nd hole in the firewall tip"!👍 I want to do this on my truck as well.
Thanks for the channel support.
Good stuff, Hank! I've been wanting to run power into my 2003 S-10; but I've got this fear of punching my drillbit into the heater core. I'm going to take a look around my firewall for that mystical boot! I'm looking forward to the rest of the series!
+Richard Slusher Richard - there is one there - you just have to find it :-)
Hank
Recently bought myself a 2014 Nissan Xterra X and the interior looks identical to this Frontier. Hopefully, this video will help me getting my Scanner and a future HAM Radio installed as well.
So far, I've just installed a Cobra 75WXST CB Radio. pretty simple install since the handheld mic has all the controls. Just hid the main box under my dash below the steering wheel.
+LIshoot The dashboard tools from Amazon have really made the difference with getting things to pop open. Having the firewall hole also helped allot.
I realize this is over 5 years old. Not sure if you still look at it. Any idea if the firewall arraignment is the same on a 2021 Frontier? Thanks!
Getting ready to install radio in my 2019 Frontier, thanks for the information.
Glad to help
nice neat installation. the only thing else to add to your install is most vehicles have a fuse block inside that has terminal spaces that you can hook up things like your installing and all you need to do is put a fuse in it and your set.
+Roy Amberg Roy - I do not recommend using the vehicle fuse block for any high power radio equipment. CB radios or other 5 watt or less units maybe, but for 50 watts plus you should go right to the battery. This is very important when you start with 100 watt HF units that can pull in excess of 22 amps.
Since you have done a good quality crimp, is there any space for the solder to flow between the wire and the connector? Thanks for the good clear video.
+Cecil Broom Yes - solder is still drawn in with the heat.
Amazing. I was thinking of doing this very subject. Great minds think alike.
Thanks, next phase - NMO mounts for antennas.
Excellent vehicle.
Outstanding video, thank you for your very informative, and hard work.
+Oscar Lechuga thank you. Glad it helped
Can you list the Powerwerx components that you used? And where did you get the grommet you mentioned? I have a 2017 Frontier, and I am getting ready to install a Yaesu FTM100DR. I am looking for as much info as possible in getting it installed in the best manner. I appreciate your channel, and your videos; thanks much.
I got my Powerwerx stuff over the counter at Ham Radio Outlet but you can buy that stuff online at Powerwerx. The grommet was out of an "assorted" kit I purchased off of Amazon.
Thanks. I will try HRO and Amazon.
Do you happen to have the parts list? I got an old azden pcs-6000 that I'm trying to get hooked up to the battery on my 95 Ranger, i believe the same wiring will work? New to all this though..
I do not. But I got most of the items from Ham Radio Outlet.
Hello Hank: I'm hoping to drive to Dayton with a couple of buddies. We are renting a car for the trip and would like to have the use of VHF/UHF for the trip. Do you have any suggestions for a non permanent set up that's easy to remove when doing a rental return?
Thanks,
8P6RC
Quality mag-mount antenna base with a Tram 1181 antenna. Fine piece of felt under mag base can also add protection for the paint - provided the mag is strong enough to have the felt.
did you order the Bluetooth chip for the 5100? also be sure to shrink tube over both the power poles under the hood, they aren't water tight.
Radio will have the Bluetooth option so I can use the tablet and maps. I was not planning to seal the power pole but I will now when it's all wrapped up.
+Commsprepper there's a video on doing icom Bluetooth cheap....
+The Reverend Kool - what's the link?
Why is the ATC-style 40 amp fuse assembly necessary/recommended if the iCom factory power cable has fuses built in? I appreciate your channel. Thank you
The Icom cable has the fuse closer to the radio (on the inside of the fire wall). With fuses at the battery any sort along the line will be protected because the fuse at the batter cuts the power at the source.
Got it, thanks! Got mine hooked up following your directions and it works perfectly. I wouldn't even know where to start if it wasn't for your channel.
i just got a icom 5100a and the fuses are near the battery and of the factory wiring.... youre wiring direct to battery ground? not chasis?
Great video! Thanks for sharing it with us! 73's KD9JEO
Looks great so far - nice work as always !
Thanks. Roof drilling is next.
Did you change the fuse included in that fuse assembly.?.. Looks like its rated 45amp..should be 25...
+revo adan No change - came with 40 amp fuses.
a awkie but you have a rig runner inside for lower rated fuses? 40amp is a bit high for radio to break just in case...
The radio cable has it's own set of fuses. The 40amp is for the main line.
What is the name of the thing connected to your positive battery terminal post?
What thing? The block with fuse? If so, not sure - it came with the truck.
You would be much better off running your ground line to a good frame ground. The later Nissan trucks use a 'smart' charging system that measures current draw @ the ground cable via an ammeter clamp. If your ground is directly to the battery then the system can't measure the aux draw. If you ground to frame, then the system will account for the aux draw.
No. Uni-body construction, painted/treated parts, corrosion, etc can affect the connections. Going directly to the negative post of the battery is the correct method. The negative post of the battery is connected to the vehicle ground.
With Nissan (trucks are BOF, not unibody) they use a clamp-style ammeter sensor that regulates the output of the altenator. That sensor is on the ground wire between the batt terminal and frame directly below the batt. IF this were an old vehicle that did not have the ECM regulating the output of the altenator, you would have an argument. However, with Nissan (and others use the same methodology) you must tie into the frame/body/block. It has been discussed on ClubFrontier (& proven) at great lengths and you can also read about the clamp sensor/meter in the FSM. The FSM's are available online.
f1y7rap I don't care if the amp meter can see what the current consumption is. Commercial LMR industry standards call for direct and fused connections to the battery post.
I agree.....I never ground to the battery......I will leave it at that.
the issue is if the charging system (controlled by the ECM) sees the load. If it doesn't then the alternator is not commanded to increase output and you can discharge your battery while the truck is running. The standards were written years ago and not revised nearly often enough to reflect current practices/designs of auto mfrs. A much better solution is to install a ground bus that is tied to the frame properly and coated with anti-corrosion. OEM grounding networks are barely sufficient as it is, which is why many people see improvements when they do "big 3" wiring upgrades (bat to alt, bat to frame, frame to engine) If you compound this with multiple aftermarket add-on systems you'll run out of overhead. If you don't want to do it, that's fine, but when you are advising others that may have less knowledge on the subject it behooves you to present the info and let them make(or not) that mistake.
I installed my Kenwood 2 meter radio in my Frontier. I'm having an issue with RF. Did you run into that i?
What kind of issue?
@@Commsprepper When I key up to transmit. Some of my warning lights in my dash come on. I did a mag mount antenna.
You have a ground problem. If you are going to use the mag mount then you may want to try running a flat ground braid wire from the radio to the frame of the truck. That should help.
Took me the whole video but... SOTAR? If not, you sound JUST like him.
I have a 2005 Nissan Xterra - Same engine and design so this helps!
Cool!
Why negative lead from lead battery? what for?
+scorosnik I don't understand your question.
+Commsprepper Спрошу по нашему, может кто переведет))) Зачем тянуть минусовой провод от аккумулятора? можно же его запитать на ближайшей точкой на кузове авто.
Would you care to do mine next? ;) Great topic as always Sir!
+Appalachian Foothills Outdoors Not sure you would want that. The truck interior is in pieces right now. Working my way around to find a path from the roof center to the floor that does not involve messing with an airbag. What a pain in the ass. Hank
Google ads bombardment, never watched.
Just when you think media is ad saturated, they pile on more.
not complete???
+nald rus Not yet. Still need to mount the radio and shoot the video.