Also, if that rear main seal is leaking a lot it will aslo be a vacuum leak and cause your vehicle to idle horribly. A good way to check is with a cheap smoke machine.
Thank you for the video... I'm on the process of doing this to my 2001 QX4 and while at it, I'm replacing my exhaust manifold gaskets and my catalytic converters since I had P0420 and P0430 codes. My first question is, how did the repair go? Was the oil leak fixed?
Repair went perfectly, my truck has not leaked a drop of oil since the repair over 2 years ago. It was a helluva job, but happy I did it. Now its just been minor repairs here and there, and she currently has 220k miles.
@@nola_r5077 It indeed is hell of a job! Mine is a 4x4 so there was a whole bunch of other stuff that had to come off (as you mentioned) before getting there. Getting the exhaust manifolds out was a pain in the neck and I had to remove the nuts and the studs to get them out. Not sure if you had the same issue. But it's all out now and I just have to support the block and drop the subframe. Mine is a 2001 QX4 btw but I believe the frame and the chassis are identical.
@@saamtech Yeah I had an issue with my manifold bolts too with some of the studs coming out. The driver side wasn't that bad, but the passenger side was absolute hell. Especially getting that upstream o2 sensor out. And yeah, I'm pretty sure they're identical so it hopefully shouldn't be any different from mine (besides the 4x4). Hope the rest of the job goes safely and easy for you man!
Very helpful. I have a leaking rear main seal. It sounds like you did not have to drop the oil pan to change the rear main seal. I am hearing from one shop that it is necessary. Would you confirm?
To do the rear main seal, it is actually necessary to drop the oil pan. The rear oil pan gasket actually sits under the rear main seal assembly. If you go in to do the rear main seal without cracking the upper oil pan, the new oil pan gasket will be to wide and prevent the rear main seal to seat properly on the crankshaft.
Does the upper oil pan gasket require an actual gasket like the lower oil pan or is it just RTV? I recently ordered an upper oil pan gasket set and all that came was two plastic seals (half circle shaped) and a tube of RTV. Just want to conform I’m not needing an actual gasket up there. Thanks
The upper pan is sealed with RTV and the 2 half circle gaskets that go under the crank. Just make sure not to put the RTV on the the rubber gaskets, but make sure to get the RTV as close as possible to the gaskets. The rear rubber gasket goes between the rear main seal assembly and pan, and the front one sits between the bottom of the timing cover and the pan. Hope this helps!
Part number is 15066-ZL80B (oil pump to cylinder block o-ring). Make sure to bring the old one with you to the dealership to compare before installation. They had to order mine but it only took a day to come in. Hope this helps!
i need to replace the motor mounts (both Drivers and Passenger side, and Transmission) i picked up the same engine support from HF, and wanted to confirm if you still support the engine with the chains by the motor mount brackets, i plan on lowering the subframe and inch or two just enough to slide out and in the replacement mounts. Any tips you can offer?
You should be ok to still place the chains through those holes. But it may not give you much clearance to fit a wrench in there to get the top bolt on the mount.
Also, if that rear main seal is leaking a lot it will aslo be a vacuum leak and cause your vehicle to idle horribly. A good way to check is with a cheap smoke machine.
Thank you for the video... I'm on the process of doing this to my 2001 QX4 and while at it, I'm replacing my exhaust manifold gaskets and my catalytic converters since I had P0420 and P0430 codes. My first question is, how did the repair go? Was the oil leak fixed?
Repair went perfectly, my truck has not leaked a drop of oil since the repair over 2 years ago. It was a helluva job, but happy I did it. Now its just been minor repairs here and there, and she currently has 220k miles.
@@nola_r5077 It indeed is hell of a job! Mine is a 4x4 so there was a whole bunch of other stuff that had to come off (as you mentioned) before getting there. Getting the exhaust manifolds out was a pain in the neck and I had to remove the nuts and the studs to get them out. Not sure if you had the same issue. But it's all out now and I just have to support the block and drop the subframe. Mine is a 2001 QX4 btw but I believe the frame and the chassis are identical.
@@saamtech Yeah I had an issue with my manifold bolts too with some of the studs coming out. The driver side wasn't that bad, but the passenger side was absolute hell. Especially getting that upstream o2 sensor out. And yeah, I'm pretty sure they're identical so it hopefully shouldn't be any different from mine (besides the 4x4). Hope the rest of the job goes safely and easy for you man!
Very helpful. I have a leaking rear main seal. It sounds like you did not have to drop the oil pan to change the rear main seal. I am hearing from one shop that it is necessary. Would you confirm?
To do the rear main seal, it is actually necessary to drop the oil pan. The rear oil pan gasket actually sits under the rear main seal assembly. If you go in to do the rear main seal without cracking the upper oil pan, the new oil pan gasket will be to wide and prevent the rear main seal to seat properly on the crankshaft.
Does the upper oil pan gasket require an actual gasket like the lower oil pan or is it just RTV? I recently ordered an upper oil pan gasket set and all that came was two plastic seals (half circle shaped) and a tube of RTV. Just want to conform I’m not needing an actual gasket up there. Thanks
The upper pan is sealed with RTV and the 2 half circle gaskets that go under the crank. Just make sure not to put the RTV on the the rubber gaskets, but make sure to get the RTV as close as possible to the gaskets. The rear rubber gasket goes between the rear main seal assembly and pan, and the front one sits between the bottom of the timing cover and the pan. Hope this helps!
Hey, can you share the part number of the o-rings?? I am planning to do this job in the near future.
Part number is 15066-ZL80B (oil pump to cylinder block o-ring). Make sure to bring the old one with you to the dealership to compare before installation. They had to order mine but it only took a day to come in. Hope this helps!
i need to replace the motor mounts (both Drivers and Passenger side, and Transmission) i picked up the same engine support from HF, and wanted to confirm if you still support the engine with the chains by the motor mount brackets, i plan on lowering the subframe and inch or two just enough to slide out and in the replacement mounts. Any tips you can offer?
You should be ok to still place the chains through those holes. But it may not give you much clearance to fit a wrench in there to get the top bolt on the mount.
@nola_r5077 got the drivers side.. now passenger side is a mess to even get to the top bolt.
Looks like pulling the motor woulda been easier
To be honest it probably would have lol. But there's no way to fit an engine lift in this 1 car garage.
@@nola_r5077 if the engine can be pulled with the harness attached then yes, it should be easier, especially for 4wd cars.
Fuck me - it would be easier to add oil every week than go through all that…
When this starts leaking again in the future that's exactly what I'm doing lol